Chapter XXVIII: Conclusion

But it was not necessary to go to distant Oaxaca and Chiapas to find Mexican indians. On the border of the capital city lie Santa Anita, Iztacalco, Mexicalcingo, Ixtapalapa, and a quantity of other villages and towns, where one may still find Aztec indians of pure blood, sometimes speaking the old language, sometimes wearing characteristic dress, and maintaining, to the present, many ancient practices and customs. At Santa Anita, for example, one may eat _juiles_ and _tamales_, catch a glimpse of indian weddings, and delight his eyes with the fresh beauty of the _chinampas_,--wonderful spots of verdure and flowers--the floating gardens of the ancient Aztecs. Half an hour, or less, in the tram-car takes the traveller to Guadalupe, which may be called the heart of Indian Mexico. There, on the rock of Tepeyac, the Virgin appeared to Juan Diego; there, in the churches, dedicated in honor of that apparition, thousands of indians, from leagues around, gather yearly. On December 12, in the crowded streets of Guadalupe, groups, fantastically garbed as indians, dance in the Virgin's honor, and in their songs and dances, modern though they be, can be found suggestions of the olden time. Now and then, one may witness, what I saw in December, 1895--a group of indian pilgrims from a distant town, singing and dancing to the Virgin, within the great church itself. And near the high altar, where thick glass plates are set into the floor, letting a dim light into the crypts below, one may see crowds of indians rubbing the smooth surface with their diseased parts to effect a cure. On the streets of the capital city, one daily sees bands of pure Otomis in rags and filth, bringing their loads of charcoal and of corn to market. Their ugly dark faces, their strange native dress, their harsh language, make on the stranger an impression not easily forgotten.

Reliable figures are wanting as to the number of pure Mexican Indians. If the population of the Republic be estimated at fifteen millions, it should be safe to say that five millions of this number are indians of pure blood, speaking their old language, keeping alive much of the ancient life and thought. In some parts of Mexico, it almost seems as if what white-blood once existed is now breeding out. The indian of Mexico is conservative; he does not want contact with a larger world; his village suffices for his needs; he is ready to pay taxes for the sake of being let alone, to live in peace, after the way his fathers lived. In his bosom there is still hatred of the white man and the _mestizo_, and distrust of every stranger. The Chamula outbreak in 1868, and the Maya war just ended, are examples of this smouldering hatred. Mexico has a serious problem in its Indians; the solution of the problem has been attempted in various ways, according to whether the population dealt with was Totonac, Yaqui, Maya: it is no small task, to build a nation out of an indian population.

Soon after the publication of my "Indians of Southern Mexico," I had the pleasure of presenting a copy of the book to President Diaz, and of looking through its pictures with him. When we came to the general view of Yodocono, and its little lake, tears stood in the old man's eyes as he said, "Sir, that was my mother's birthplace, and in her honor I have established, at my own expense, two schools, one for boys, and one for girls." Looking at the round huts of Chicahuastla, he shivered, and remarked: "Ah, sir, but it is cold in Chicahuastla." I replied, "Your Excellency, I see that you have been in Chicahuastla." When he saw the Zapotec types, from the District of Tehuantepec, he said: "They are fine large fellows; they make good soldiers; when I was Governor of Oaxaca, I had a body-guard of them." He then told me of the six orphan boys who, in memory of his body-guard, he had adopted and educated; he told me with pride of the success which the five who still live had made, and of the positions they were filling. When he reached the portrait of the little Mixtec, carrying a sack of corn, who, with pride, had told me, in answer to my question, that his name was Porfirio Diaz, the President of the Republic looked long and earnestly at the picture, and I noticed that, when we turned the pages, his finger marked the spot where the likeness of his name-sake was, and, when the book was finished, before closing it, he turned back again, and looked at the little fellow's face. At the first Otomi portrait, he had said: "Ah, sir, but my schools will change the Otomis."

It would be pleasant to have faith in President Diaz' solution of the Otomi problem, but to me it seems doubtful. Of course, I recall with pleasure my visit to the boys' school at San Nicolas Panotla. It was interesting to see those little Tlaxcalan fellows solve problems in alligation and percentage, in bonds and mortgages; but it is doubtful whether any of them, in actual life, will have to deal with blending coffees, or with selling bonds, and cutting coupons. Still, from such indian towns great men have come in the past, and great men will come in the future. Benito Juarez, who laid the foundations on which Diaz has so magnificently built, was a pure-blood Zapotec. From the Aztecs, the Tlaxcalans, Mixtecs, Zapotecs and Mayas, we may hope much in the future. They were races of achievement in the past, and the monuments of their achievement still remain. But that the Otomi, the Triqui, or the Mixe, should be made over by the schools is doubtful. Personally, I feel that the prosperity of Mexico rests more upon the indian blood than on any other element of national power. That schools will do much to train the more gifted tribes perhaps is true. But there are indians, and indians, in Mexico.

GLOSSARY OF SPANISH AND INDIAN WORDS

abusos. abuses, disturbances.
adios. adieu, good-bye.
agente. agent.
agua. water.
agua bendita. blessed water.
agua miel. lit. honey water, the unfermented juice of the maguéy.
aguardiente. a spirituous liquor.
aguas frescas. refreshing drinks.
ahuacate. a fruit, the alligator pear.
aje, or axe. an insect; a greasy mass, yielding a lacquer-like lustre.
alcalde. a town judge.
arbol. tree.
arriero. a convoyer of loaded mules or horses.
atole. a corn gruel.
autorizada. authorized, having authority.
axolotl. a water salamander, with peculiar life-history.
ayatl, or ayate. a carry-cloth.
barranca. a gorge, or gully.
bruja. witch.
brujería. witchcraft.
burro. ass.
cabecera. the head-town of a district.
cafe. coffee.
caiman. a reptile much like an alligator.
camarón. shrimp.
camisa. shirt.
cantera, cantero. a water-jar, or pitcher.
cargador. carrier.
carreta. cart.
carretero. a carter.
cascarón. an eggshell filled with bits of cut paper.
catalán. a wine, named from a Spanish town.
cenote. a cave with water.
centavo. a coin, the one-hundredth part of a peso; a cent.
chac mool. a stone figure, found at Chichen Itza, Yucatan.
chalupa. a boat-shaped crust with meat or vegetables in it.
chamara. a blanket for wearing.
champurrado. a mixture, as of atole and chocolate.
chapapote. chewing-gum.
chicha. an intoxicant made from sugar-cane.
chicle. chewing-gum.
chinampa. "floating garden," a garden patch.
chirimiya. a shrill musical instrument, somewhat
like a fife or flageolet.
chirimoya. the custard-apple.
cigarro. cigarette.
cincalótl, cincalote. granary.
clarín. a bird, with clear note.
cochero. coachman.
colorín. a tree.
comiteco. a spirits made at Comitan.
Conquista. Conquest.
copal. a gum, much used as incense.
coro. loft.
corral. an enclosure for animals.
costumbre. custom.
cotón, cotones. a man's upper garment, a sort of poncho.
cuartel. barracks.
cuezcomátl, cuezcomate. granary.
cura. parish priest.
curato. parish house.
danza. dance.
doctrina. doctrine, catechism.
don. Mr., used only when the Christian name of a person is spoken.
dulce. sweet, sweetmeat.
dulcero. maker or seller of sweets.
dulceria. sweetmeat factory.
enagua. woman's skirt.
enchilada. a fried tortilla with chili and cheese.
feria. fair.
fiesta. festival.
finca. farm, plantation.
firma. signature.
fiscal. fiscal officer,
frijol, frijoles. bean, beans,
golondrina. swallow,
gramatica. grammar.
gringo. somewhat derisive term applied to foreigners,
especially Americans.
guardia. guard.
hacienda. a country-place.
haciendado, haciendero. the owner of an hacienda.
hennequín. a plant producing fibre, sisal hemp.
hermita. a retired shrine.
herrería. smithy, forge, ironworks.
h'men. conjuror.
huehuetes. the old ones.
huehuetl, huehuete. the ancient upright drum.
huerfano. orphan.
huipíl, huipili. a woman's waist garment.
huipilili. a woman's waist garment, worn under the huipíl.
idioma. idiom, language.
incomunicado. solitary, not allowed communication.
itinerario. itinerary.
itztli. obsidian.
ixtli. fibre from the maguéy and cactus.
jacál. a hut.
jarabe. a popular dance.
jícara. a gourd-cup, or vessel.
jonote. a tree.
Jornada. a day's march.
juez. judge.
ke'esh. a votive figure.
ladino. a mestizo, a person not Indian.
ladrón, ladrones. thief, thieves.
liana. vine.
licenciado. lawyer.
lima. a fruit, somewhat like an insipid orange.
lindas. pretty (girls).
llano. a grassy plain.
machete. a large knife.
maestro. teacher, a master in any trade.
maguéy. a plant, the century plant or agave, yielding pulque.
mai, pelico. tobacco, mixed with chili and lime.
malacátl, malacate. spindle-whorl.
malinche. malinche.
maméy. a fruit, orange flesh and brown exterior.
manta. cotton-cloth, a woman's dress.
mañana. to-morrow.
mapachtl. a small animal, perhaps the raccoon or badger.
mapaho. beating-sticks, for cleaning cotton.
mayores. chiefs, village elders, police.
medio. six centavos.
meson. a house for travellers.
mescal. a spirits, made from an agave.
mestizo. a person of mixed blood.
metate. stone upon which corn is ground.
milagro. miracle.
milpa. cornfield.
mogote. a mound or tumulus.
mole. a stew, highly seasoned with chili.
mole prieto. black mole.
moral. a tree, mulberry.
mozo. a young man, a servant.
mudo. mute, dumb.
mulada. a mule train.
muñeco. doll, figure.
municipio. town, town-government, town-house.
nacimiento. an arrangement of figures and grotto-work,
made at Christmastide.
nada. nothing.
naguál. conjuror.
negrito. (diminutive) negro.
nublina. mist, fog.
ocote. pine-tree, splinter of pine.
otro. other.
padre. father, priest.
padrecito. priest.
país. country, esp. one's native town.
panela. sugar in cake or loaf.
papaya. a fruit.
pastorela. a drama relative to the Nativity.
pastores. shepherds.
patio. inside court of house.
pelico, mai. tobacco, with chili and lime.
peso. a money denomination, one hundred centavos, one dollar.
petate. mat.
pinolillo. a species of tick.
pinto. a disease, spotted skin.
pita. a fibre.
pitero. a fifer.
pito. fife.
plaza. town square.
portales. a building with corridor in front.
posol, posole. corn prepared to carry on journey, for mixing with
water.
prefecto. prefect.
presidente. president.
principales. principal men, councillors.
pueblito. small pueblo, village.
pulque. an intoxicant, made from maguéy sap.
quichiquemil. a woman's upper garment.
rancho. a country-place.
ranchito. a small ranch.
rebozo. a woman's garment, a wrap or light shawl.
regidor. alderman.
remedio. remedy.
sangre. blood.
santo, santito. saint.
señor. sir, gentleman.
señora. madam, lady.
señorita. Miss, young woman.
serape. a blanket, for wearing.
sindico. recorder.
soltero. an unmarried man.
sombrero. hat.
subida. ascent.
tabla. board.
tamales. dumplings of corn-meal.
tambour. drum.
tatita. papa.
tepache. a fermented drink.
teponastl, teponaste. the ancient horizontal drum.
tienda. store, shop.
tierra caliente. hot country.
tigre. tiger, jaguar.
tinaja. water-jar.
topil. a messenger or police.
toro. bull.
tortillas. corn-cakes, cooked on a griddle.
tortuga. turtle.
tsupakwa. dart-thrower.
ule. rubber.
vaca. cow.
vámonos. come on, we are going.
viejos. old.
vomito. yellow fever.
xalama. a tree.
xtól, xtoles. a dancer, or dancers (see Mérida, narrative).
zacate, sacate. hay, fodder.

ITINERARY

The expedition of 1896 was preliminary. We went by rail from the City of Mexico to Oaxaca, capital of the state of the same name. Thence, we journeyed by horse through the states of Oaxaca and Chiapas, to the city of Guatemala, entering the Republic of Guatemala at Nenton. The return journey was made by rail to the Pacific port of San Jose, steamer to Salina Cruz, rail to Coatzacoalcos, steamer to Vera Cruz, and rail to the City of Mexico. Only the portion of this journey between Oaxaca and Nenton is here described, the rest not lying in Indian Mexico. The City of Mexico was headquarters for the work in 1897-98. A trip was made by rail from there to Dos Rios, to measure and photograph the Otomis of Huixquilucan, in the state of Mexico. Thence we went to Patzcuaro by rail, and studied the Tarascans in the villages about Lake Patzcuaro, visiting these by canoe-trips. We then made a trip on horseback to Uruapan (then without rail connection), returning by some important indian towns. After returning to Mexico, we visited the states of Tlaxcala and Puebla. In and around the City of Tlaxcala, we secured our Tlaxcalan subjects. At Cuauhtlantzinco, we worked upon Aztecs. Our experiences at this large town of Puebla are not described, as Bandelier has already rendered the place familiar, and we ourselves have written of it elsewhere. With these two peoples, we made our first essays at bust-making. After returning to Mexico, we went by rail, on the Guadalajara branch of the Mexican Central, to Negrete. From there, by coach (there being then no railroad) to Zamora. Thence, we struck, on horseback, through the Tarascan territory, across to Patzcuaro. On the way, we secured our full series of Tarascan busts, at the Once Pueblos. By rail, we went from Patzcuaro to Dos Rios, to secure our lacking busts of Otomis at Huixquilucan. In the second field expedition, January to March 1899, we worked entirely in the state of Oaxaca. At first a trip was made, by horse, from Oaxaca into the Mixteca Alta, where Mixtecs and Triquis were studied. Again starting from Oaxaca, we traveled over our old trails of 1896, through the mountains to Tehuantepec, returning by the high-road in common use. Zapotecs were studied at Mitla and Tehuantepec, and the Mixes, Juaves, and Chontals in various towns and villages. The season's work closed by our study, at and near Cuicatlan, of the Cuicatecs. At this town, too, we began to work upon Chinantecs. In the third field expedition, during the early months of 1900, we visited seven populations, making our regular study upon six of them. To fill a week that would otherwise have been lost, we made a pedestrian trip through the interesting indian towns on the slopes of Malintzi. Then, from Cuicatlan as a center, we made two journeys--one to San Juan Zautla and San Pedro Soochiapan, to examine Chinantecs; the other to Coixtlahuaca, for seeing Chochos. From Cuicatlan, we struck north by rail to San Antonio, and, by coach to Teotitlan del Camino and by horse beyond, penetrated to the great Mazatec town of Huauhtla. Chinantecs, Chochos, and Mazatecs are tribes of Oaxaca. Leaving that state, we traveled by rail to Tulancingo. From there, by coach and on horseback, we visited Otomi, Aztec, Tepehua and Totonac towns in the states of Puebla and Hidalgo. With the field season of 1901, our work in Indian Mexico ended. It was pursued in three separated areas. From the City of Mexico, we went by rail to Tampico. From that point, a journey by canoe and horse enabled us to see the Huaxtecs of the state of Vera Cruz. Returning to Tampico, a trip by steamer across the gulf brought us to Yucatan. Progreso and Mérida were visited, and our work was done upon the Mayas living near the town of Tekax. A second trip on the gulf brought us to Coatzacoalcos, whence the railroad was used to Tehuantepec and San Geronimo. From the latter point, an ox-cart journey of ten nights, across the states of Oaxaca and Chiapas, brought us to Tuxtla Gutierrez. By horse we continued through Chiapas to El Salto, where we took steamer for Frontera. From there, by steamer to Vera Cruz and then by rail, we traveled to the City of Mexico. Zoques, Tzotzils, Tzendals, and Chols were studied in this portion of the journey.