Chapter I: Front Matter

In the Land of Mosques
and Minarets

_WORKS OF_ _FRANCIS MILTOUN_

_Rambles on the Riviera_ $2.50

_Rambles in Normandy_ 2.50

_Rambles in Brittany_ 2.50

_The Cathedrals and Churches of the Rhine_ 2.50

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_The Cathedrals of Southern France_ 2.50

_In the Land of Mosques and Minarets_ 3.00

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_L. C. PAGE & COMPANY_

_New England Building_, _Boston, Mass._

The Caïd of the Msaaba

Blanche McManus

1907]

In the Land of
Mosques & Minarets

BY FRANCIS MILTOUN

_Officier du Nicham Iftikhar_

Author of "Castles and Chateaux of Old Touraine," "Rambles in
Normandy," "Rambles in Brittany," "Rambles on the
Riviera," "Castles and Chateaux of Old Navarre
and the Basque Provinces," etc.

_With Illustrations
from drawings and paintings done_

BY BLANCHE MCMANUS

BOSTON
L. C. PAGE & COMPANY
1908

_Copyright, 1908_
BY L. C. PAGE & COMPANY

(INCORPORATED)

_All rights reserved_

First Impression, April, 1908

_COLONIAL PRESS_
_Electrotyped and Printed by C. H. Simonds & Co._
_Boston, U. S. A._

CHAPTER PAGE

I. GOING AND COMING 1

II. THE REAL NORTH AFRICA 16

III. ALGERIA OF TO-DAY 42

IV. THE RÉGENCE OF TUNISIA AND THE TUNISIANS 57

V. THE RELIGION OF THE MUSSULMAN 74

VI. ARCHITECTURE OF THE MOSQUES 97

VII. POETRY, MUSIC, AND DANCING 113

VIII. ARABS, TURKS, AND JEWS 129

IX. SOME THINGS THAT MATTER--TO THE ARAB 146

X. "THE ARAB SHOD WITH FIRE" 169

XI. THE SHIP OF THE DESERT AND HIS OCEAN OF SAND 178

XII. SOLDIERS SAVAGE AND CIVILIZED--LÉGIONNAIRES AND SPAHIS 197

XIII. FROM ORAN TO THE MOROCCO FRONTIER 209

XIV. THE MITIDJA AND THE SAHEL 227

XV. THE GREAT WHITE CITY--ALGIERS 245

XVI. ALGIERS AND BEYOND 259

XVII. KABYLIE AND THE KABYLES 273

XVIII. CONSTANTINE AND THE GORGE DU RUMMEL 291

XIX. BETWEEN THE DESERT AND THE SOWN 309

XX. BISKRA AND THE DESERT BEYOND 320

XXI. IN THE WAKE OF THE ROMAN 336

XXII. TUNIS AND THE SOUKS 356

XXIII. IN SHADOW OF THE MOSQUE 371

XXIV. THE GLORY THAT ONCE WAS CARTHAGE 389

XXV. THE BARBARY COAST 402

XXVI. THE OASIS OF TOZEUR 414

INDEX 431

List of Illustrations

PAGE

THE CAÏD OF THE MSAÂBA _Frontispiece_

THE APPROACH BY SEA (Map) 8

THE EDGE OF THE DESERT _facing_ 12

"CIREUR" 27

THE FLIGHT OF THE MOORS (Map) 29

ALGERIA AND ITS PROVINCES (Map) _facing_ 42

TOUGGOURT _facing_ 44

FARMING, OLD STYLE 50

BATNA _facing_ 52

TUNISIA (Map) _facing_ 56

AN OLD SEAL OF THE BEY OF TUNIS 58

THE OLIVES WE EAT 68

THE WORLD OF ISLAM _facing_ 74

THE EIGHT POSITIONS OF THE PRAYING MUSSULMAN 81

THE MUEZZIN'S CALL TO PRAYER _facing_ 84

A MARABOUT _facing_ 90

IN AN ARAB CEMETERY _facing_ 96

GROUND PLAN OF A MOSQUE 100

A WINDOW IN AN ARAB HOUSE 105

KOUBA OF SIDI-BRAHIM _facing_ 106

AN ARABIAN MUSICIAN _facing_ 120

A FLUTE SELLER _facing_ 122

"SOUVENIR D'ALGÉRIE" (Music) 123

TYPES OF ARABS 131

JEWISH WOMEN OF TUNIS _facing_ 142

A DAUGHTER OF THE "GREAT TENTS" _facing_ 152

THE LIFE OF THE "GREAT TENTS" _facing_ 156

AN ARAB AND HIS HORSE IN GALA ATTIRE _facing_ 172

THE _MEHARI_ OF THE DESERT _facing_ 180

A DESERT CARAVAN _facing_ 186

THE ILLIMITABLE DESERT 191

THE SAND DUNES OF THE DESERT _facing_ 192

A CAPTAIN OF SPAHIS _facing_ 202

SOME NATIVE SOLDIERY 204

A GOUM _facing_ 206

ARAB MOSQUE AT BENI-OUNIF _facing_ 220

A _KIF_ SHOP _facing_ 222

LAGHOUAT _facing_ 224

HOTEL AT FIGUIG 225

MARKET, BOUFARIK 228

TOMB OF SIDI-YACOUB _facing_ 232

A MAURESQUE OF BLIDA _facing_ 234

FRIEZE AT THE RUISSEAU DES SINGES 243

ALGIERS AND ITS ENVIRONS (Map) _facing_ 244

A CEMETERY GATE _facing_ 256

A BOU-SAADA TYPE _facing_ 268

THINGS SEEN IN KABYLIE 285

A MINARET AT CONSTANTINE 294

A CONSTANTINE MOSQUE _facing_ 294

THE GORGE DU RUMMEL _facing_ 298

A MUSSULMAN FUNERAL 302

THE VILLAGE AND THE GORGE OF EL KANTARA _facing_ 316

BISKRA AND ITS ARAB VILLAGES (Map) 321

THE COURTYARD OF THE HÔTEL DES ZIBAN, BISKRA _facing_ 322

SIDI-OKBA _facing_ 330

THE _KASBA_, BONA _facing_ 338

SO-CALLED TOMB OF CONSTANTINE (Diagram) 342

TOMB OF MÉDRACEN 343

LAMBESSA AND ITS RUINS _facing_ 346

LAMBESSA (Map) 347

TIMGAD (Map) 349

TEBESSA (Diagram) 353

MORSOTT (Diagram) 355

IN THE BAZAARS, TUNIS _facing_ 360

A STREET OF MOSQUES, TUNIS _facing_ 366

DANCING GIRLS OF TUNIS 369

HABIB'S VISITING CARD 380

THE PORTS OF CARTHAGE _facing_ 390

CARTHAGE (Map) 395

ANCIENT UTICA (Diagram) 398

THE _SUD-TUNISIEN_ (Map) 404

IN A KAIROUAN MOSQUE _facing_ 410

AMPHITHEATRE AT EL DJEM 413

EL OUED _facing_ 416

A STREET IN TOZEUR _facing_ 420

In the Land of Mosques and Minarets