Chapter I: Preface: To the Fifth Edition

THE fourth edition of this work was published during the author's absence from the city. His publishers, in a preface in his behalf, returned his acknowledgments to the public, and he can but respond to the acknowledgments there made. He has made some alterations in the page relating to the American phil-Hellenists; and for the rest, he concludes as in the preface to his first edition.

The author has been induced by his publishers to put forth his "Incidents of Travel in Greece, Turkey, Russia, and Poland." In point of time they precede his tour in Egypt, Arabia Petraea, and the Holy Land. The countries which form the subject of the following pages perhaps do not, in themselves, possess the same interest with those in his first work; but the author has reason to believe that part of his route, particularly from the Black Sea to the Baltic, through the interior of Russia, and from St. Petersburgh through the interior of Poland to Warsaw and Cracow, is comparatively new to most of his countrymen. As in his first work, his object has been to present a picture of the every-day scenes which occur to the traveller in the countries referred to, rather than any detailed description of the countries themselves.

_New York, November, 1838._

CONTENTS OF THE FIRST VOLUME

CHAPTER I. Page

A Hurricane.--An Adventure.--Missilonghi.--Siege of
Missilonghi.--Byron.--Marco Bozzaris.--Visit to the Widow,
Daughters, and Brother of Bozzaris.--Halleck's "Marco Bozzaris."
13

CHAPTER II.

Choice of a Servant.--A Turnout.--An Evening Chat.--Scenery of the
Road.--Lepanto.--A projected Visit.--Change of
Purpose.--Padras.--Vostitza.--Variety and Magnificence of Scenery.
28

CHAPTER III.

Quarrel with the Landlord.--AEgina.--Sicyon.--Corinth.--A
distinguished Reception.--Desolation of Corinth.--The
Acropolis.--View from the Acropolis.--Lechaeum and Cenchreae.--Kaka
Scala.--Arrival at Athens. 46

CHAPTER IV.

American Missionary School.--Visit to the School.--Mr. Hill and the
Male Department.--Mrs. Hill and the Female Department.--Maid of
Athens.--Letter from Mr. Hill.--Revival of Athena.--Citizens of
the World. 61

CHAPTER V.

Ruins of Athens.--Hill of Mars.--Temple of the Winds.--Lantern of
Demosthenes.--Arch of Adrian.--Temple of Jupiter Olympus.--Temple
of Theseus.--The Acropolis.--The Parthenon.--Pentelican
Mountain.--Mount Hymettus.--The Piraeus.--Greek Fleas.--Napoli. 73

CHAPTER VI.

Argos.--Parting and Farewell.--Tomb of Agamemnon.--Mycenae.--Gate of
the Lions.--A Misfortune.--Meeting in the Mountains.--A Landlord's
Troubles.--A Midnight Quarrel.--One good Turn deserves
another.--Gratitude of a Greek Family.--Megara.--The Soldiers'
Revel. 99

CHAPTER VII.

A Dreary Funeral.--Marathon.--Mount Pentelicus.--A Mystery.--Woes of
a Lover.--Reveries of Glory.--Scio's Rocky Isle.--A blood-stained
Page of History.--A Greek Prelate.--Desolation.--The Exile's
Return. 118

CHAPTER VIII.

A Noble Grecian Lady.--Beauty of Scio.--An Original.--Foggi.--A
Turkish Coffee-house.--Mussulman at Prayers.--Easter Sunday.--A
Greek Priest.--A Tartar Guide.--Turkish Ladies.--Camel
Scenes.--Sight of a Harem.--Disappointed Hopes.--A rare
Concert.--Arrival at Smyrna. 149

CHAPTER IX.

First Sight of Smyrna.--Unveiled Women.--Ruins of Ephesus.--Ruin,
all Ruin.--Temple of Diana.--Encounter with a Wolf.--Love at first
Sight.--Gatherings on the Road. 173

CHAPTER X.

Position of Smyrna.--Consular Privileges.--The Case of the
Lover.--End of the Love Affair.--The Missionary's Wife.--The
Casino.--Only a Greek Row.--Rambles in Smyrna.--The
Armenians.--Domestic Enjoyments. 188

CHAPTER XI.

An American Original.--Moral Changes in Turkey.--Wonders of Steam
Navigation.--The March of Mind.--Classic Localities.--Sestos and
Abydos.--Seeds of Pestilence. 203

CHAPTER XII.

Mr. Churchill.--Commodore Porter.--Castle of the Seven Towers.--The
Sultan's Naval Architect.--Launch of the Great Ship.--Sultan
Mahmoud.--Jubilate.--A National Grievance.--Visit to a
Mosque.--The Burial-grounds. 218

CHAPTER XIII.

Visit to the Slave-market.--Horrors of Slavery.--Departure from
Stamboul.--The stormy Euxine.--Odessa.--The Lazaretto.--Russian
Civility.--Returning Good for Evil. 236

CHAPTER XIV.

The Guardiano.--One too many.--An Excess of Kindness.--The last Day
of Quarantine.--Mr. Baguet.--Rise of Odessa.--City-making.--Count
Woronzow.--A Gentleman Farmer.--An American Russian. 258

INCIDENTS OF TRAVEL IN GREECE, TURKEY, RUSSIA, AND POLAND.