Chapter I: Front Matter

Transcriber's notes:

1. Page scan source: http://www.archive.org/details/incidentstravel36stepgoog

2. Frontispiece (Engraving 1), Map of Mani (Engraving 35), and Paintings (Engraving 50) are from the NYPL Digital Gallery which provides free and open access to over 700,000 images digitized from primary sources and printed rarities in the vast collections of The New York Public Library.

3. The diphthong oe is represented by [oe]

[Engraving 1: Frontispiece--Casa del Gobernador, Uxmal]

INCIDENTS OF TRAVEL

IN

YUCATAN.

BY JOHN L. STEPHENS,

AUTHOR OF "INCIDENTS OF TRAVEL IN EGYPT, ARABIA PETRAEA, AND THE
HOLY LAND," "INCIDENTS OF TRAVEL IN CENTRAL AMERICA," ETC.

ILLUSTRATED BY 120 ENGRAVINGS.

IN TWO VOLUMES.

VOL. II.

NEW YORK:
PUBLISHED BY HARPER & BROTHERS
FOR HENRY BILL.
1848.

Entered, according to Act of Congress, in the year 1843, by
HARPER & BROTHERS,
In the Clerk's Office of the Southern District of New-York

CONTENTS
OF
THE SECOND VOLUME.

* * * * *

CHAPTER I.

Departure from Nohcacab.--Outfit.--Rancho of Chack.--Fright of the Women.--Rancho of Schawill--Casa Real.--Scarcity of Water.--Visit from the Alcalde.--Primitive Mode of obtaining Water.--A peculiar People.--Ruins of Zayi.--Great tree-covered Mound.--The Casa Grande.--Fortunate Discovery.--Staircase.--Doorways, &c.--Buildings on the second Terrace.--Doorways.--Curiously ornamented Columns.--Building on the third Terrace.--Doorways, Apartments, &c.--Stone Lintels.--Facade of the second Range of Buildings.--Ground Plan of the three Ranges.--The Casa Cerrada.--Doorways filled up inside with Stone and Mortar.--Finished Apartments, also filled up.--This filling up simultaneous with the Erection of the Building.--A Mound.--Ruined Building.--Its Interior.--Sculptured Head, &c.--A strange Structure.--An Archway.--Perpendicular Wall.--Stuccoed Figures and Ornaments.--Great Terrace and Building.--Apartments, &c.--Want of Interest manifested by the Indians in regard to these Ruins.

CHAPTER II.

Visit to a ruined Building near Chack.--A Field of Taje.--Description of the Building.--Hornet's Nest.--Young Vulture.--Picturesque View from the Terrace.--Well of Chack.--Exploration of its Passages.--Return to the Rancho.--Departure from Schawill--The Camino Real.--Rancho of Sennacte.--Wild Appearance of the Indians.--Continued Scarcity of Water.--Another ruined City.--Two ruined Buildings.--Apartments, Columns, &c.--High Wall.--Journey continued.--Rancho of Sabachshe.--Casa Real.--Well--Hut of the Alcalde.--The Senora.--Ruins of Sabachshe.--Picturesque Edifice.--Alacrity of the Indians.--Facade.--Pilasters, Cornices, &c.--Encounter with an Iguana.--Another Ruined Building.--The Agave Americana.--More Ruins.--The Red Hand.--The Red Hand used as a Symbol by the North American Indians.--Conclusions to be deduced from this Circumstance.--Delicate Manner of doing a Service.

CHAPTER III.

Ruins of Labna.--Accounts of the Indians not to be relied on.--Irretrievable Ruin.--Extraordinary Structure.--Doorways.--Chambers.--Gigantic Wall, covered with Designs in Stucco.--Death's Heads.--Human Figures in Alto Relievo.--Colossal Figure seated.--Large Ball and Figures.--Dilapidated State of this Structure.--An arched Gateway.--Other Buildings.--Richly ornamented Doorway.--Courtyard.--Ornaments in Stucco.--Large Building.--Magnificent Edifice.--Facade ornamented with sculptured Stone.--Circular Hole leading to a subterranean Chamber.--The Ramon Tree.--A Cave.--Conversation with the Indians.--A Ride to the Hacienda of Tabi.--Sculptured Ornament.--Other Figures.--Visit to a Cave.--Tree-encumbered Path.--A Vaquero.--Descent into the Cave.--Fanciful Scene.--Return to the Rancho.--A Warm Bath.

CHAPTER IV.

Search for Ruined Cities continued.--Journey to the Rancho of Kewick.--Ruined Building.--Lose the Road.--Set right by an Indian.--Arrival at Kewick.--The Casa Real.--Visit from the Proprietor of the Rancho, a full-blooded Indian.--His Character.--Visit to the Ruins.--Garrapatas.--Old Walls.--Facades.--Imposing Scene of Ruins.--Principal Doorway.--Apartments.--Curious Painting.--Excavating a Stone.--A long Building.--Other Ruins.--Continued Scarcity of Water.--Visit to a Cave, called by the Indians Actum.--A wild Scene.--An Aguada.--Return to the Casa Real.--A Crisis in Money Matters.--Journey to Xul.--Entry into the Village.--The Convent.--Reception.--The Cura of Xul.--His Character.--Mingling of Old Things with New.--The Church.--A Levee.--A Welcome Arrival.

CHAPTER V.

Journey to the Rancho of Nohcacab.--A Fountain and Seybo Tree.--Arrival at the Rancho.--Its Appearance.--A sick Trio.--Effects of a good Breakfast.--Visit to the Ruins.--Terrace and Buildings.--Three other Buildings.--Character of these Ruins.--Disappointment.--Return to Xul.--Visit to another ruined City.--Ruined Building.--An Arch, plastered and covered with Painted Figures.--Other Paintings.--Subterranean Well.--Return to the Village.--Journey to Ticul.--Large Mounds.--Passage of the Sierra.--Grand View.--Arrival at Ticul.--A Village Festival.--Ball of the Mestizas.--Costumes.--Dance of the Toros.--Lassoing Cattle.--Ball by Daylight.--The Fiscales.--Ludicrous Scene.--A Dance.--Love in a Phrensy.--A unique Breakfast.--Close of the Ball.

CHAPTER VI.

Bull-fights.--Horse-race.--Bull-fighters.--Their villanous Appearance.--Death of a Bull.--A Ball of Etiquette.--Society in Yucatan.--Costumes at the Ball.--More Bull-fights.--A Mestiza.--Scenes in the Bull-ring.--A Storm.--Dispersion of the Spectators.--A Discovery.--A new Reformation in Yucatan.--Celibacy of Priests.--A few Words about the Padres.--Arrival of Mr. Catherwood and Dr. Cabot.--Rain.--Daguerreotyping.--"The Ancient Chronology of Yucatan."--Don Pio Perez.--Calendar of the Ancient Indians.--Substantially the same with that of the Mexicans.--This Fact tends to show the common Origin of the aboriginal Inhabitants of Yucatan and Mexico.

CHAPTER VII.

Return to Nohcacab.--Final Departure from this Village.--An Indian Sexton.--Route.--"Old Walls."--Ruins of Sacbey.--Paved Road.--Journey continued.--Ruins of Xampon.--Imposing Edifice.--"Old Walls," called by Indians Xlapphak.--Ruins of Hiokowitz and Kuepak.--Zekilna.--Altar for burning Copal.--Ancient Terrace.--Lofty stone Structure.--Remains of a Building.--Sculptured Stones.--Platform.--Rancho of Chunhuhu.--Become involuntary Masters of a Hut.--Its interior Arrangements.--Scarcity of Water.--Pressing Wants.--Visit to the Ruins.--Two Buildings.--Facade.--Ornamented Doorways.--Welcome Visiters.--Another Building.--Plastered Front.--A Building seen from the Terrace.--Visit to the Ruins of Schoolhoke.--Large stone Structure.--Ranges of Buildings.--Circular Stone.--Ruined Edifice.--Representations of Human Figures.--Return to the Rancho.--Benefits of a Rain.