Chapter VIII

ADVENTURES AMONG THE FINNS. Journey up the Torne�Wonders of the Winter Woods�Lapps and Reindeer�My Finnish Vocabulary�A Night Journey�Reception at Kengis�Continue the Journey�Finnish Sleds�A Hard Day�The Inn at Jokijalka�Its Inmates�Life in a Finnish Hut�An Arctic Picture�A Frozen Country�Kihlangi�A Polar Night�Parkajoki�We reach Muoniovara. 83

CHAPTER IX. LIFE IN LAPLAND. Reception at Muoniovara�Mr. Wolley�Our Lapland Home�A Finnish Bath�Send for Reindeer�A Finnish House�Stables�The Reindeer Pulk�My first Attempt at driving Reindeer�Failure and Success �Muonioniska�View from the Hill�Fears of an old Finn�The Discovery of America�A Lapp Witch�Reindeer Accident 98

CHAPTER X. A REINDEER JOURNEY ACROSS LAPLAND. Preparations for the Journey�Departure�A lazy Deer�"Long Isaac"�An Auroral Spectacle�A Night at Palajoki�The Table-Land of Lapland �Sagacity of the Deer�Driving a wild Reindeer�Polar Poetry� Lippaj�rvi�Picture of a Lapp�The Night�A Phantom Journey�The Track lost�A Lapp Encampment�Two Hours in a Lapp Tent�We start again�Descent into Norway�Heavy Travel�Lapp Hut in Siepe�A Fractious Reindeer�Drive to Kautokeino 101

CHAPTER XI. KAUTOKEINO�A DAY WITHOUT A SUN. Lapland Etiquette�The Inn�Quarters at the L�nsman's�Situation of Kautokeino�Climate�Life�Habits of the Population�Approach of Sunrise�Church Service in Lapland�Cold Religion�Noonday without Sunrise�The North and the South�A Vision�Visits of the [Pg x]Lapps�Lars Kaino�A Field for Portrait-painting�Character of the Lapp Race� Their present Condition�The religious Outbreak at Kautokeino� Pastor Hvoslef�A Piano in Lapland�The Schools�Visit to a Gamme 126

CHAPTER XII. THE RETURN TO MUONIOVARA. Advantages of Lapp Costume�Turning Southward�Departure from Kautokeino�A Lapp Hut�Religion�The Reindeer�Their Qualities �Treatment by the Lapps�Annoyances of Reindeer Travel� Endurance of Northern Girls�The Table-Land�The "Roof of the World"�Journey to Lippaj�rvi�Descent to the Muonio�Female Curiosity�The Return to Muoniovara�Prosaic Life of the Lapps�Modern Prudery 141

CHAPTER XIII. ABOUT THE FINNS. Change of Plans�Winter in Lapland�The Finns�Their Physical Appearance�Character�Drunkenness�A Spiritual Epidemic� Morality�Contradictory Customs�Family Names and Traditions �Apathy of Northern Life�The Polar Zone�Good Qualities of the Race�An English Naturalist 154

CHAPTER XIV. EXPERIENCES OF ARCTIC WEATHER. Departure from Muoniovara�50� below Zero�A terrible Day�An Arctic Night�Jokijalka again�Travelling down the Torne�A Night at Kardis�Increase of Daylight�Juoxengi�A Struggle for Life� Difficulty of keeping awake�Frozen Noses�The Norseman's Hell�Freezing Travellers�Full Daylight again�Safe Arrival at Haparanda�Comfort�The Doctor's Welcome�Drive to Torne�The Weather 164

CHAPTER XV. INCIDENTS OF THE RETURN JOURNEY. Mild Weather!�Miraculous Scenery�N�sby�Swedish [Pg xi]Honesty �Adventures at Lule�Northern Sleds�Pite�Accident at Skellefte�The Norrland Climate�A damp Swede�Travelling in a Tempest�A Norrland Inn�Character of the People�Their Houses 177

CHAPTER XVI. CONCLUSION OF THE ARCTIC TRIP. Warmth and Daylight�Swedish Linen�The Northern Women�Progress Southward�Quarrel with a Postillion�A Model Village�Rough Roads�Scarcity of Snow�Arrival at Stockholm�Remarks on Arctic Travel�Scale of Temperature�Record of Cold 187

CHAPTER XVII. LIFE IN STOCKHOLM. Stockholm�Its Position and Appearance�The Streets and Houses� Manner of Living�Swedish Diet�Stockholm in Spring�Swedish Gymnastics�A Grotesque Spectacle�Results of Gymnastics�Ling's System�The Swedish Language�Character of the Prose and Poetry� Songs�Life in Stockholm 197