Chapter XXIV

Discovery of Cuba by Columbus.—The Native Race.—Historical Matters.—Headquarters of Spanish Military Operations in the West.—Invasion of Mexico by Cortez.—African Slave Trade.—Peculiarities of the Caribbean Sea.—Geography of the Island of Cuba.—City of Matanzas.—Havana, the Capital.—The Alameda.—The Cathedral.—Military Mass.—A Wonderfully Fertile Island.—Reflections.

ILLUSTRATIONS CAPTAIN COOK, THE DISCOVERER. FRONTISPIECE. MIRROR LAKE, YOSEMITE VALLEY. HAWAIIANS EATING POI. MODE OF TRAVELLING IN JAPAN. A JINRIKSHA. A CHINESE CART. A SINGHALESE DANCER. BOTANICAL GARDENS AT ADELAIDE, AUSTRALIA. A KANGAROO HUNT IN AUSTRALIA. EMU HUNTING IN AUSTRALIA. SCENE ON THE SOUTH ESK RIVER, TASMANIA. A GREAT BANYAN TREE AT CALCUTTA. MOSQUE AT DELHI, INDIA. A WELL IN THE DESERT BETWEEN SUEZ AND CAIRO. A LADY OF CAIRO AS SEEN IN PUBLIC. GENERAL VIEW OF THE ALHAMBRA. A RECEPTION HALL IN THE ALHAMBRA. LEANING TOWER OF PISA, CATHEDRAL AND BAPTISTERY. A STREET IN POMPEII. THE COLISEUM AT ROME. SCENE ON THE GRAND CANAL, VENICE. BRIDGE CROSSING THE MOLDAU. THE CATHEDRAL OF ST. ISAACS AT ST. PETERSBURG. TOWER OF THE HOUSE OF PARLIAMENT. THE TOWER OF LONDON. EDINBURGH CASTLE.

DUE WEST Or, Round The World In Ten Months By Maturin M. Ballou CONTENTS. CHAPTER I. Synopsis of the Journey.—Crossing the Continent.—A Great Midland City.—Utah and the Mormons.—The Sierra Nevada.—San Francisco.—A Herd of Sea-Lions.—Possibilities of California.—The Love of Flowers.—Public School System.—Excursion to the Yosemite.—An Indian Stronghold.—Description of the Valley.—Passage of the Mountains.—Caught in a Snow-Storm.—A Forest of Feathers.—The Mammoth Trees of California.—Passing the Golden Gate.—Voyage across the Pacific.—A Lost Day

CHAPTER II. Landing in Japan.—Characteristic Street Scenes.—Native Bazars.—Women of Yokohama.—Excursion into the Country.—Visit to Kamakura.—Peculiar Scenes on the Road.—A Wonderful Bronze Statue.—Popular Religions of the Country.—The Hakone Pass.—A Youthful Mother.—Native Jugglers.—Temple of Shiba.—Review of the Soldiery.—Ludicrous Sights.—A Native Fair at Tokio.—A Poor Japanese Woman's Prayer

CHAPTER III. Foreign Influence in Japan.—Progress of the People.—Traveling Inland.—Fertility of the Soil.—Grand Temples and Shrines at Nikko.—The Left-Handed Artist.—Japanese Art.—City of Kobé.—Kioto and its Temples.—Idol Worship.—Native Amusements.—Morals in Japan.—Lake Biwa.—Osaka on a Gala Day.—The Inland Sea.—Island of Pappenburg.—The Tarpeian Rock of Japan.—Nagasaki.—Girls Coaling a Ship.—National Products

[Pg x] CHAPTER IV. Sail for Hong Kong.—Ocean Storms.—Sunset at Sea.—A Water-Spout.—Arrival in China.—Typhoon Bay.—Manners and Customs.—In and about Hong Kong.—Public Buildings.—Voyage up the Pearl River.—City of Canton.—Strangest of Strange Cities.—Opium Dens.—Temple of Honan.—The Worship of Swine.—Praying with a Fan.—Local Peculiarities.—Half Round the World.—Singapore.—A Tiger Hunt.—Burial at Sea.—Penang.—The Wonderful Palm

CHAPTER V. Sailing Due West.—The Indian Ocean.—Strange Sights at Sea.—Island of Ceylon.—Singhalese Canoes.—Colombo.—A Land of Slaves.—Native Town.—Singhalese Women.—Fantastic Nurses.—Local Pictures.—Cinnamon Gardens.—Wild Elephants.—Lavishness of Tropical Nature.—Curious Birds and their Nests.—Ancient Kandy.—Temple of Maligawan.—Religious Ceremonies.—Life of the Natives.—Inland Scenery.—Fruits.—Precious Stones.—Coffee Plantations.—Great Antiquity of Ceylon

CHAPTER VI. Arrival in India.—Tuticorin.—Madura.—Bungalows.—Reptiles and Insects.—Wonderful Pagoda.—Sacred Elephants.—Trichinopoly and its Temples.—Bishop Heber.—Native Silversmiths.—Tanjore.—The Rajah's Palace.—Pagoda and an Immense Stone Idol.—Southern India.—City of Madras.—Want of a Harbor.—In and about the Capital.—Voyage through the Bay of Bengal.—The Hoogly River.—Political Capital of India.—A Crazy King.—The Himalayas.—Sunset and Sunrise at Darjeeling

CHAPTER VII. From Calcutta to Benares.—Miles of Poppy Fields.—Ruined Temples.—The Mecca of Hindostan.—Banks of the Sacred Ganges.—Idolatry at its Height.—Monkey Temple.—The Famous River Front of the Holy City.—Fanaticism.—Cremating [Pg xi]the Dead.—A Pestilential City.—Visit to a Native Palace.—From Benares to Cawnpore.—A Beautiful Statue.—English Rule in India.—Delhi.—The Mogul Dynasty.—Lahore.—Umritsar.—Agra.—The Taj Mahal.—Royal Palace and Fort.—The Famous Pearl Mosque

CHAPTER VIII. From Agra to Jeypore.—An Independent Province.—A Unique Indian City.—Wild Animals.—Elephant Traveling.—Trapping Tigers.—A Royal Palace.—The Harem.—Native Rule.—Wild Monkeys and Peacocks.—Long Journey across Country.—Bombay.—The Rival of Calcutta.—The Parsees.—Towers of Silence.—Feeding the Vultures.—A Remarkable Institution.—Island of Elephanta.—Street Jugglers.—Crossing the Sea of Arabia.—The Southern Cross.—Aden.—Passage up the Red Sea.—Landing at Suez.—Traveling in Egypt

CHAPTER IX. Cairo and the Arabian Nights.—Street Scenes and Cries.—Camels and Donkeys.—Turkish Bazars in Old Cairo.—Water-Carriers.—The Pyramids of Gizeh.—The Sphinx.—Interesting Visit to a Native House.—Mosque of Mehemet Ali.—The Rotten Row of Cairo.—The Khedive's Palace.—Egyptian Museum.—Mosque of Amer.—Whirling and Howling Dervishes.—Suez Canal.—Ismailia and Port Said.—Island of Malta.—City of Valetta.—Palace of the Knights.—Bird's-eye View

CHAPTER X. Voyage through the Mediterranean.—Gibraltar on Sunday.—Beautiful Alameda.—Visit to the Famous Fortress.—Wild Monkeys.—Cannon and Flowers.—Tangier.—Morocco.—Straits of Gibraltar.—A Moorish City of To-day.—Local Scenes.—A Private Museum.—The Governor's Palace.—Rusty Keys.—The Typical Moor.—The Slave Market.—Oriental Tableaux.—Visit to Washington Mount.—A Cup of Moorish Coffee.—From Gibraltar to Malaga.—Spain.—The City of Raisins and Sweet Wine

[Pg xii] CHAPTER XI. From Malaga to Granada.—Military Escort—A Beautiful Valley.—A Dream Realized in the Alhambra.—The Moor in his Glory.—Tangible Poetry.—A Brief Legend.—The Generalife.—The Moor's Seat.—The Home of the Gypsies.—A Gold Bearing River.—A Beautiful Residence.—Early Home of the Ex-Empress Eugénie.—City of Granada.—Spanish Beggars.—The Remarkable Tomb of Ferdinand and Isabella.—French Vandals.—The Cathedral.—Precious Relic.—The Cartuja.—Love of Music

CHAPTER XII. Granada to Cordova.—An Antique City.—The Guadalquivir.—Old Roman Bridge.—The Grand Mosque-Cathedral of Cordova.—Court of Orange-Trees.—Army of Beggars.—From Cordova to Madrid.—Local Characteristics of the Capital.—The Gate of the Sun.—The King and Queen in Public.—The Royal Palace.—Spanish Ladies and Gentlemen.—The Fan.—The Picture-Gallery of Madrid.—National Sport of the Bull-Fight.—Cowardice!—Interesting Visit to the City of Toledo.—The Escurial

CHAPTER XIII. From Madrid to Burgos.—Through a Barren Country.—The Cathedral of Burgos.—Monastery of Miraflores.—Local Pictures.—A Spanish Inn.—Convent of Las Huelgas.—From Burgos to San Sebastian.—Northern Spain.—A Spanish Watering Place.—Bayonne.—Lower Pyrenees.—Biarritz.—A Basque Postilion.—A Pleasant Drive.—On Leaving Spain.—Sunday and Balloons at Bordeaux.—On to Paris.—Antwerp and its Art Treasures.—Embarking for America.—End of the Long Journey

HISTORY OF CUBA Notes of a Traveller in the Tropics. Maturin M. Ballou

CONTENTS CHAPTER I. The Island of Cuba—Early colonists—Island aborigines—First importation of slaves—Cortez and his followers—Aztecs—The law of races—Mexican aborigines—Valley of Mexico—Pizarro—The end of heroes—Retributive justice—Decadence of Spanish power—History of Cuba—The rovers of the gulf—Havana fortified—The tyrant Velasquez—Office of Captain-general—Loyalty of the Cubans—Power of the captain-general—Cupidity of the government—The slave-trade—The British take Havana—General Don Luis de las Casas—Don Francisco de Arranjo—Improvement, moral and physical, of Cuba, 9 CHAPTER II. The constitution of 1812—Revolution of La Granja—Political aspect of the island—Discontent among the Cubans—The example before them—Simon Bolivar, the Liberator—Revolutions of 1823 and 1826—General Lorenzo and the constitution—The assumption of extraordinary power by Tacon—Civil war threatened—Tacon sustained by royal authority—Despair of the Cubans—Military rule—A foreign press established—Programme of the liberal party—General O'Donnell—The spoils—Influence of the climate, 25 CHAPTER III. Armed intervention—Conspiracy of Cienfuegos and Trinidad—General Narciso Lopez—The author's views on the subject—Inducements to revolt—Enormous taxation—Scheme of the patriots—Lopez's first landing, in 1850—Taking of Cardinas—Return of the invaders—Effect upon the Cuban authorities—Roncali recalled—New captain-general—Lopez's second expedition—Condition of the Invaders—Vicissitudes—Col. Crittenden—Battle of Las Pozas—Superiority of courage—Battle of Las Frias—Death of Gen. Enna—The fearful finale of the expedition, 38 CHAPTER IV. Present condition of Cuba—Secret treaty with France and England—British plan for the Africanization of the island—Sale of Cuba—Measures of General Pezuela—Registration of slaves—Intermarriage of blacks and whites—Contradictory proclamations—Spanish duplicity—A Creole's view of the crisis and the prospect, 54 CHAPTER V.[Pg vii] Geographical position of the island—Its size—The climate—Advice to invalids—Glance at the principal cities—Matanzas—Puerto Principe—Santiago de Cuba—Trinidad—The writer's first view of Havana—Importance of the capital—Its literary institutions—Restriction on Cuban youths and education—Glance at the city streets—Style of architecture—Domestic arrangements of town houses—A word about Cuban ladies—Small feet—Grace of manners and general characteristics, 66 CHAPTER VI. Contrast between Protestant and Catholic communities—Catholic churches—Sabbath scenes in Havana—Devotion of the common people—The Plaza de Armas—City squares—The poor man's opera—Influence of music—La Dominica—The Tacon Paseo—The Tacon Theatre—The Cathedral—Tomb of Columbus over the altar—Story of the great Genoese pilot—His death—Removal of remains—The former great wealth of the church in Cuba—Influence of the priests, 80 CHAPTER VII. Nudity of children and slaves—The street of the merchants—The currency of Cuba—The Spanish army in the island—Enrolment of blacks—Courage of Spanish troops—Treatment by the government—The garrote—A military execution—The market-men and their wares—The milk-man and his mode of supply—Glass windows—Curtains for doors—The Campo Santo, or burial-place of Havana—Treatment of the dead—The prison—The fish-market of the capital, 95 CHAPTER VIII. The story of Marti, the smuggler, 108 CHAPTER IX. The lottery at Havana—Hospitality of the Spaniards—Flattery—Cuban ladies—Castilian, Parisian and American politeness—The bonnet in Cuba—Ladies' dresses—The fan—Jewelry and its wear—Culture of flowers—Reflections—A most peculiar narcotic—Cost of living on the island—Guines—The cock-pit—Training of the birds—The garden of the world—Birds of the tropics—Condition of agriculture—Night-time—The Southern Cross—Natural resources of Cuba—Her wrongs and oppressions, 116 CHAPTER X. The volante and its belongings—The ancient town of Regla—The arena for the bull-fights at Havana—A bull-fight as witnessed by the author at Regla—A national passion with the Spanish people—Compared with old Roman sports—Famous bull-fighters—Personal description of Cuban ladies—Description of the men—Romance and the tropics—The nobility of Cuba—Sugar noblemen—The grades of society—The yeomanry of the island—Their social position—What they might be—Love of gambling, 131 CHAPTER XI.[Pg viii] A sugar plantation—Americans employed—Slaves on the plantations—A coffee plantation—Culture of coffee, sugar and tobacco—Statistics of agriculture—The cucullos, or Cuban fire-fly—Novel ornaments worn by the ladies—The Cuban mode of harnessing oxen—The montero and his horse—Curious style of out-door painting—Petty annoyances to travellers—Jealousy of the authorities—Japan-like watchfulness—Questionable policy—Political condition of Cuba, 145 CHAPTER XII. Tacon's summary mode of justice, 161 CHAPTER XIII. Consumption of tobacco—The universal cigar—Lady smokers—The fruits of Cuba—Flour a prohibited article—The royal palm—West Indian trees—Snakes, animals, etc.—The Cuban blood-hound—Mode of training him—Remarkable instinct—Importation of slaves—Their cost—Various African tribes—Superstitious belief—Tattooing—Health of the negroes—Slave laws of the island—Food of the negroes—Spanish law of emancipation—General treatment of the slaves, 171 CHAPTER XIV. Pecuniary value of the slave-trade to Havana—The slave clippers—First introduction of slaves into Cuba—Monopoly of the traffic by England—Spain's disregard of treaty stipulations—Spanish perfidy—Present condition of Spain—Her decadence—Influence upon her American possessions—Slaves upon the plantations—The soil of Cuba—Mineral wealth of the island—The present condition of the people—The influences of American progress—What Cuba might be, 186 CHAPTER XV. Area of Cuba—Extent of cultivated and uncultivated lands—Population—Proportion between the sexes—Ratio of legitimate to illegitimate births—Ratio between births and deaths—Agricultural statistics—Commerce and commercial regulations—Custom-house and port charges—Exports and imports—Trade with the United States—Universities and schools—Education—Charitable institutions—Railroads—Temperature, 201 CHAPTER XVI. Retrospective thoughts—The bright side and dark side of the picture—Cuban institutions contrasted with our own—Political sentiments of the Creoles—War footing—Loyalty of the colony—Native men of genius—The Cubans not willing slaves—Our own revolution—Apostles of rebellion—Moral of the Lopez expedition—Jealousy of Spain—Honorable position of our government—Spanish aggressions on our flag—Purchase of the island—Distinguished conservative opinion—The end 214

DUE NORTH Glimpses Of Scandinavia And Russia By Maturin M. Ballou

CONTENTS CHAPTER I. Copenhagen.—First Stroll in a Strange City.—Danish Children.—Antiquity of Copenhagen.—English Arrogance.—The Baltic Sea.—Danish Possessions.—Descendants of the Vikings.—Covetous Germany.—The Denmark of To-day.—Thorwaldsen's Remarkable Museum.—The Ethnological Museum.—Educational Matters.—Eminent Natives.—Charitable Institutions.—Antique Churches.—Royal Palaces.—Historical Memories.—City Architecture.—Zoölogical Gardens 1–23

CHAPTER II. Public Amusements in Copenhagen.—Danish Sovereigns.—The Fashionable Promenade.—Danish Women.—Palace of Rosenborg.—A Golconda of Gems.—A Poet's Monument.—A Famous Astronomer.—Our Lady's Church.—The King's Square.—The Curious Old Round Tower.—The Peasantry.—A Famous Deer Park.—Röskilde.—Elsinore.—Gypsies.—Kronborg Castle.—The Queen's Prison.—Hamlet and Ophelia's Grave.—A Danish Legend 24–40

CHAPTER III. Gottenburg.—Ruins of Elfsborg.—Gustavus Adolphus.—A Wrecked Monument.—The Girdle-Duellists.—Emigration to America.—Public and Private Gardens.—A Kindly People.—The Götha Canal.—Falls of Trollhätta.—Dainty Wild-Flowers.—Water-Ways.—Stockholm and Lake Maelaren.—Prehistoric Tokens.—Iron Mines of Sweden.—Pleasing Episode with Children.—The Liquor Traffic Systematized.—A Great Practical Charity.—A Domestic Habit 41–56

[Pg viii] CHAPTER IV. Capital of Norway.—A Grand Fjord.—A Free and Independent State.—The Legal Code.—Royal Palace and Gardens.—Oscar's Hall.—The University.—Public Amusements.—The Ice Trade.—Ancient Viking Ships.—Heathen Tombs.—An Interesting Hostelry.—A Steam Kitchen.—Environs of Christiania.—Horses and their Treatment.—Harvest Time.—Women's Work.—The Sæter.—A Remarkable Lake.—Wild Birds.—Inland Travel.—Scandinavian Wild Flowers.—Lonely Habitations.—A Land of Alpine Heights 57–85

CHAPTER V. Ancient Capital of Norway.—Routes of Travel.—Rain!—Peasant Costumes.—Commerce of Bergen.—Shark's vs. Cod Liver Oil.—Ship-Building.—Public Edifices.—Quaint Shops.—Borgund Church.—Leprosy in Norway.—Sporting Country.—Inland Experiences.—Hay-Making.—Pine-Forest Experiences.—National Constitution.—People's Schools.—Girls' Industrial School.—Celebrated Citizens of Bergen.—Two Grand Norwegian Fjords.—Remarkable Glaciers 86–101

CHAPTER VI. Ancient and Modern Trondhjem.—Runic Inscriptions.—A Famous Old Cathedral.—Local Characteristics.—Romantic Story of King Olaf.—Curious Local Productions.—An Island Prison.—Lafoss Falls.—Corn Magazines.—Land-owners.—Wood-cutters.—Forests.—A Tumble Overboard.—A Genuine Cockney.—Comparative Length of Days.—Characteristics of Boreal Regions.—Arctic Winter Fisheries.—The Ancient Town of Lund; the Oxford of Sweden.—Pagan Times 102–115

CHAPTER VII. Along the Coast of Norway.—Education at the Far North.—An Interesting Character.—A Botanical Enthusiast.—Remarkable Mountain Tunnel.—A Hard Climb.—The Seven [Pg ix] Sisters.—Young England.—An Amateur Photographer.—Horseman's Island.—Ancient Town of Bodöe.—Arctic Flowers.—The Famous Maelström.—Illusions!—The Wonderful Lofoden Islands.—Grand and Unique Scenery.—Glaciers.—Nature's Architecture.—Mysterious Effects.—Attraction for Artists 116–135

CHAPTER VIII. Birds of the Arctic Regions.—Effect of Continuous Daylight.—Town of Tromsöe.—The Aurora Borealis.—Love of Flowers.—The Growth of Trees.—Butterflies.—Home Flowers.—Trees.—Shooting Whales with Cannon.—Prehistoric Relics.—About Laplanders.—Eider Ducks.—A Norsk Wedding Present.—Gypsies of the North.—Pagan Rites.—The Use of the Reindeer.—Domestic Life of the Lapps.—Marriage Ceremony.—A Gypsy Queen.—Lapp Babies.—Graceful Acknowledgment 136–155

CHAPTER IX. Experiences Sailing Northward.—Arctic Whaling.—The Feathered Tribe.—Caught in a Trap.—Domestic Animals.—The Marvellous Gulf Stream.—Town of Hammerfest.—Commerce.—Arctic Mosquitoes.—The Public Crier.—Norwegian Marriages.—Peculiar Bird Habits.—A Hint to Naturalists.—Bird Island.—A Lonely Habitation.—High Latitude.—Final Landing at the North Cape.—A Hard Climb.—View of the Wonderful Midnight Sun 156–168

CHAPTER X. Journey Across Country.—Capital of Sweden.—Old and New.—Swedish History.—Local Attractions.—King Oscar II.—The Royal Palace.—The Westminster Abbey of Stockholm.—A Splendid Deer Park.—Public Amusements.—The Sabbath.—An Official Dude.—An Awkward Statue.—Swedish Nightingales.—Linnæus and Swedenborg.—Dalecarlia Girls.—A Remarkable Group in Bronze.—Rosedale Royal Cottage.—Ancient Oaks.—Upsala and its Surroundings.—Ancient Mounds at old Upsala.—Swedenborg's Study 169–192

[Pg x] CHAPTER XI. The Northern Mediterranean.—Depth of the Sea.—Where Amber Comes From.—A Thousand Isles.—City of Åbo.—Departed Glory.—Capital of Finland.—Local Scenes.—Russian Government.—Finland's Dependency.—Billingsgate.—A Woman Sailor in an Exigency.—Fortress of Sweaborg.—Fortifications of Cronstadt.—Russia's Great Naval Station.—The Emperor's Steam Yacht.—A Sail up the Neva.—St. Petersburg in the Distance.—First Russian Dinner 193–205

CHAPTER XII. St. Petersburg.—Churches.—The Alexander Column.—Principal Street.—Cathedral of Peter and Paul.—Nevsky Monastery.—Russian Priesthood.—The Canals.—Public Library.—Cruelty of an Empress.—Religious Devotion of the People.—A Dangerous Locality.—Population.—The Neva and Lake Ladoga.—The Nicholas Bridge.—Winter Season.—Begging Nuns.—Nihilism.—Scandal Touching the Emperor.—The Fashionable Drive.—St. Isaac's Church.—Russian Bells.—Famous Equestrian Statue.—The Admiralty.—Architecture 206–240

CHAPTER XIII. The Winter Palace.—The Hermitage and its Riches.—An Empress and her Fancies.—A Royal Retreat.—Russian Culture.—Public Library.—The Summer Garden.—Temperature of the City.—Choosing of the Brides.—Peter's Cottage.—Champ de Mars.—Academy of Fine Arts.—School of Mines.—Precious Stones.—The Imperial Home at Peterhoff.—Curious and Interesting Buildings.—Catherine's Oak.—Alexander III. at Parade.—Description of the Royal Family.—Horse-Racing.—The Empress's Companions 241–264

CHAPTER XIV. Power of the Greek Church.—Freeing the Serfs.—Education Needed.—Mammoth Russia.—Religion and Superstition.—Memorial Structures.—Church Fasts.—Theatres and [Pg xi] Public Amusements.—Night Revels.—A Russian Bazaar.—Children's Nurses in Costume.—The one Vehicle of Russia.—Dress of the People.—Fire Brigade.—Red Tape.—Personal Surveillance.—Passports.—Annoyances.—Spying Upon Strangers.—The Author's Experience.—Censorship of the Press 265–279

CHAPTER XV. On the Road to Moscow.—Russian Peasantry.—Military Station Masters.—Peat Fuel for the War-Ships.—Farm Products.—Scenery.—Wild-Flowers.—City of Tver.—Inland Navigation.—The Great River Volga.—The Ancient Muscovite Capital.—Spires and Minarets.—A Russian Mecca.—Pictorial Signs.—The Kremlin.—The Royal Palace.—King of Bells.—Cathedral of St. Basil.—The Royal Treasury.—Church of Our Saviour.—Chinese City.—Rag Fair.—Manufactures 280–305

CHAPTER XVI. Domestic Life in Moscow.—Oriental Seclusion of Women.—The Foundling Hospital.—A Christian Charity.—A Metropolitan Centre.—City Museum.—The University.—Tea-Drinking.—Pleasure Gardens.—Drosky Drivers.—Riding-School.—Theatres.—Universal Bribery.—Love of Country.—Russians as Linguists.—Sparrow Hill.—Petrofski Park.—Muscovite Gypsies.—Fast Life.—Intemperance.—A Famous Monastery.—City Highways.—Sacred Pigeons.—Beggars 306–332

CHAPTER XVII. Nijni-Novgorod.—Hot Weather.—The River Volga.—Hundreds of Steamers.—Great Annual Fair.—Peculiar Character of the Trade.—Motley Collection of Humanity.—An Army of Beggars.—Rare and Precious Stones.—The Famous Brick Tea.—A Costly Beverage.—Sanitary Measures.—Disgraceful Dance Halls.—Fatal Beauty.—A Sad History.—Light-Fingered Gentry.—Convicts.—Facts about Siberia.—Local Customs.—Russian Punishment 333–352

[Pg xii] CHAPTER XVIII. On the Road to Poland.—Extensive Grain-Fields.—Polish Peasantry.—A Russian General.—No Evidence of Oppression.—Warsaw and its Surroundings.—Mingled Squalor and Elegance.—Monuments of the City.—Polish Nobility.—Circassian Troops.—Polish Language.—The Jews of Warsaw.—Political Condition of Poland.—Public Parks.—The Famous Saxony Gardens.—Present Commercial Prosperity.—Local Sentiment.—Concerning Polish Ladies and Jewish Beauties 353–373

THE STORY OF MALTA By Maturin M. Ballou

CONTENTS CHAPTER I. Geographical Position of Malta.—A Pivotal Location.—Warden of the Great Inland Sea.—First Sight of the Group.—How to reach the Island.—Early Inhabitants.—Language of the People.—Phœnician Colonists.—Arabian Dynasty.—A Piratical Rendezvous.—Suez Canal.—Two Sorts of Travelers.—Gibraltar.—Harbor of Valletta.—A Place of Arms.—Various Bays of the Group.—Dimensions.—Extensive Commerce of the Port. 1 CHAPTER II. Island of Hyperia.—Where St. Paul was Wrecked.—An Historical Bay. —Rock-Cut Tombs.—Curious and Unique Antiquities.—Sovereignty of the Knights of St. John.—An Anomalous Brotherhood.—Sailor-Monks.—Ancient Galleys.—A Famous Barbary Corsair.—Antique Norwegian Vessel.—Navy of the Knights.—Barbaric Warfare.—About the Maltese Nobility.—Romantic History.—"Arabian Nights."—Valletta the Beautiful. 21 CHAPTER III. The Maltese Group.—Comino.—Cave Life.—Verdant Gozo.—Isle of Filfla.—Curious Lizards.—Loss of an Ironclad.—Mysterious Wheel-Tracks.—Earthquakes.—Population.—Military Dépôt.—Youthful Soldiers.—Quarantine.—Arrival of the Knights.—Immorality.—Harbor Defenses.—Land Fortifications.—Charming Photographic View.—The Stars and Stripes Abroad.—The Eight-Pointed Maltese Cross.— Peculiar Sunset Scene. 41 [Pg vi]CHAPTER IV. The Soil of Malta.—Imports and Exports.—Absence of Trees.—Equable Climate.—Three Crops Annually.—Use of Fertilizers.—Ignorant and Pious Peasantry.—Food of the People.—Maltese Women.—Oriental Customs.—Roman Catholic Influence.—Improvisation.—Early Marriages.—A Resort for the Pope.—Low Wages.—Beggars.—Wind Storms.—Blood Oranges.—The Carob-Tree.—Maltese Lace.—Sailing along the Shore. 64 CHAPTER V. The Climate of Malta.—The Furious Grégalé.—Liability to Sunstroke.—The African Sirocco.—Cloudless Days.—A Health Resort.—English Church.—View of Ætna.—Volcanic Disturbances.—Will Malta Eventually Disappear?—Native Flora.—Flower-Girls of Valletta.— Absence of Lakes and Rivers.—The Moon-Flower.—Grand Stone Aqueduct.—After the Roman Plan of Building.—Fountains.—Results of Irrigation. 86 CHAPTER VI. Homer's Fabled Siren.—Singular Topographical Formation in Gozo.—Beautiful Island Groves.—Fertile Grain-Fields.—Flowering Hedges.—Aromatic Honey.—Herds of Goats.—A Favorite Domestic Product. —Milk Supply.—Prolific Sheep.—A Maltese Market.—Quail Shooting.—Rabbato, Capital of Gozo.—The Old Citadel.—Lace Manufacture.—Prehistoric Ruins.—The Giant's Tower.—Attractive Summer Resort.—Pagan Worship. 101 CHAPTER VII. A Maltese Fishing Hamlet.—Old Fort Chambray.—A Grotto shorn of Poetic Adornment.—The "Azure Window."—Bay of Scilendi.—Pirates' Caves.—Prehistoric Bones and Skeletons.—The Vast Changes of Land and Sea.—Suez Canal.—Geological Matters.—Native Race of Arabic Descent.—Curious Stone Mortars.—Primitive Artillery.—Maltese Fungus.—Springtime.—Riches of the Harvest.—Origin of the Island of Gozo. 115 [Pg vii] CHAPTER VIII. Valletta, Capital of Malta.—A Unique City.—Bright Faces, Flowers, and Sunshine.—Architecture.—L'Isle Adam and La Vallette, Grand Masters.—Mount Sceberris.—Stone Dwelling-Houses.—Streets of the Capital.—A Specialty.—Fancy Goods Merchants.—The Yacht Sunbeam.—Main Street of the City.—A Grand Opera House.—A St. Giles in Malta.—Strada Santa Lucia.—Street of Stairs.— Thoroughfares.—The Military Hospital.—Characteristic Street Scenes.—Emigration. 129 CHAPTER IX. Ophthalmia.—Profusion of Flowers.—Inland Villages.—Educational Matters.—Public Amusements.—Maltese Carnival.—Italian Carnival.—Under English Rule.—No Direct Taxation.—Code of Laws.—A Summer Palace.—Governor-General Smyth.—San Antonio Gardens.—Wages.—Oranges.—Life's Contrasts.—Swarming Beggars.—Social Problem.—Churches crowded with Riches.—Starving Population.—A Mexican Experience. 152 CHAPTER X. Broadway of Valletta.—Panoramic Street View.—A Bogus Nobility.—Former Grand Palace of the Knights.—Telegraphic Station.—About Soldier-Priests.—Interior of the Palace.—Ancient Tapestry.—Old Paintings.—Antique Armory.—An American with a Fad.—Ancient Battle-Flags.—Armor worn by the Knights.—Days of the Crusaders.—Bonaparte as a Petty Thief.—There are no Saints on Earth!—Dueling Ground.—Desecrating Good Friday. 172 CHAPTER XI. The Famous Church of St. John.—By What Means it was Decorated.—Grand Mosaic Floor.—Roman Catholic Ceremonials.—Remarkable Relics.—Chapels of the Languages.—A Devout Artist.—Church Treasures.—Thieving French Soldiers.—Poetical Justice.—The Hateful Inquisition.—Churches of Valletta.—A Forlorn Hope.—Heroic Conduct.—A Maltese Pantheon.—A Rival Dome to St. Paul's, London.—Some Fine Paintings. 193 [Pg viii]CHAPTER XII. Public Library of Malta.—British Museum, London.—City Circulating Library.—Museum of Valletta.—Interesting Curiosities.—Birthplace of Hannibal.—Pawnbroker's Establishment.—Savings Bank of the Monte di Pietà.—The Baraccas.—A Superb View.—An Excursion Inland.—Ancient Capital of Malta.—Città Vecchia.—Toy Railway.—About the Vatican at Rome.—An Ancient Cathedral.—Dungeons of the Middle Ages. 214 CHAPTER XIII. Ancient Catacombs.—A Subterranean City.—Phœnician Tombs.—Grotto of St. Paul.—A Crumbling Old Capital.—Dreary and Deserted.—Bingemma Hills.—Ancient Coins and Antique Utensils.—Ruins of a Pagan Temple.—A Former Fane to Hercules.—A Garden of Delights.—Druidical Circles.—Beautiful Grotto.—Crude Native Dances.—Unique Musical Instrument.—Nasciar.—Suburb of Floriana.—A Capuchin Convent.—Grim Skeletons. 231 CHAPTER XIV. The Chivalric Order of St. John.—Humble Beginning of the Organization.—Hospitallers.—Days of the Crusades.—Motto of the Brotherhood.—Peter Gerard.—The Monk lost in the Soldier.—At Acre, Cyprus, and Rhodes.—Naval Operations.—Siege of Rhodes.—Garden of the Levant.—Piratical Days.—Six Months of Bloodshed.—Awful Destruction of Human Life.—A Famous Fighting Knight.—Final Evacuation of Rhodes by the Order. 254 CHAPTER XV. Settlement of the Order at Malta.—A Barren Waste.—A New Era for the Natives.—Foundling Hospitals.—Grand Master La Vallette.—Sailors and Soldiers.—Capture of Prisoners at Mondon.—A Slave Story in Brief.—Christian Corsairs!—The Ottomans attack the Knights in their New Home.—Defeat of the Turks.—Terrible Slaughter of Human Beings.—Civil War.—Summary Punishment.—Some Details of a Famous Siege. 274 [Pg ix]CHAPTER XVI. Result of the Siege.—Native Women serving as Soldiers.—The Maltese Militia.—The Knights gain World-Wide Applause.—Rage of Sultan Solyman.—Agents of the Grand Master become Incendiaries.—La Vallette, Hero of the Siege.—The Order still Piratical.—The Turks and Knights Affiliate.—Decadence of the Chivalric Brotherhood.—Momentary Revival of the Old Spirit.—Treacherous Surrender.—French Sovereignty.—End of the Order. 297 CHAPTER XVII. Conclusion.—A Picture of Sunrise at Malta.—The Upper Baracca of Valletta.—A Favorite and Sightly Promenade.—Retrospective Flight of Fancy.—Conflict between the Soldiers of the Cross and the Crescent. —A Background Wanting.—Historical and Legendary Malta.—The Secret of Appreciation.—Last View of the Romantic Group.—Farewell. 314

DUE NORTH. By Maturin M. Ballou

CONTENTS Page CHAPTER I. Journey across the American Continent.—The Giant City of the West.—A Chinese Community.—Embarking for a Long Sea-voyage.—About Ocean Birds.—Navigating the Pacific.—Peculiarities of Life at Sea.—Curiosities of the Deep.—Ambergris.—City of Honolulu.—An Island Paradise.—Early Paganism at Hawaii.—Wholesale Human Sacrifices.—Royalty at the Race-course.— Not a Kingly Monarch 1-25 CHAPTER II. Ladies Riding Astride.—Passion for Flower Decorations.—A Sailor on a Bucking Horse.—A Weekly Gala-day.—Hawaiian Ladies' Costume.—A Famous Battle-ground.—The Native's Staff of Life.—Ubiquitous John Chinaman.—Largest Apple-orchard in the World.—Hawaiians as Cannibals.—An Active Volcano.—Colony of Lepers.—Unwelcome Visitors.—Our Political Relations with the Sandwich Islands 26-49 CHAPTER III. The Samoan Islands.—A Unique Race of Savages.—Diving for Money.—A Genuine Samoan Mermaid.—German Aggressiveness.—A South-Sea Nunnery.—A Terrible Disease.—Christianity vs. Paganism.—Under the Southern Cross.—Grandeur of the Heavens at Sea.—Landing at Auckland.—A Stormy Ocean.—The Famous Harbor of Sydney.—England and her Australian Colony.—The Modern Eldorado.—Early Settlers 50-75 [Pg viii]CHAPTER IV. Interesting Statistical Facts.—Emigration.—Heavy Indebtedness.—Curious Contrasts.—New South Wales.—A Populous City.—A Splendid Harbor.—The Yacht "Sunbeam."—Street Scenes.—Gin Palaces.—Public Gardens of Sydney.—A Noble Institution of Learning.—Art Gallery.—Public Libraries.—Pleasure Trip to Parametta.—Attractive Drives.—A Sad Catastrophe in Sydney Harbor 76-98 CHAPTER V. A Zigzag Railway.—Wonderful Series of Caves.—Immense Sheep-Runs.—Sheep-Shearing.—Central Australia.—City Characteristics.—Fine Architectural Development.—Steam Tramways.—Labor Unions.—Colonial Federation.—The Tariff.—Loyalty to England.—Spirit of Local Rivalry.—The St. Giles of Sydney.—City Clubs.—The Laughing Jackass.—Public Parks.—Gold Mines 99-125 CHAPTER VI. The Capital of Queensland.—Public Gardens.—Gold Mines and Gold Mining.—Pleasant Excursion.—Inducements to Emigrants.—Coolie Principle of Labor.—Agricultural Products.—Sugar Plantations.—Australian Aborigines.—Cannibalism.—Civil Wars.—Indian Legends.—Fire-arms and Fire-water.—Missionary Efforts.—A Brief Romance.—The Boomerang.—The Various Tribes.—Antiquity of these Lands 126-151 CHAPTER VII. Morning in the Forest.—Flying Foxes.—A Startling Snake-story.— Geographical.—Want of Irrigation.—Droughts.—Immense Sheep-Runs.—Seeking a Shepherd Life.—Wonderful Gold Nuggets.—A "Welcome" Discovery.—Wool is King in Queensland.—The Chinese Population.—Education in Australia.—Peculiar Banking Business.— Waging War upon Kangaroos.—Journalism in Australia.—Proposed New Colony 152-176 [Pg ix]CHAPTER VIII. An Inland Journey.—The Capital of Victoria.—Grand Public Buildings.—Water-Supply of the City.—Public Parks and Gardens.—Street Scenes.—Dashing Liveries.—Tramways.— Extremes.—Melbourne Ladies.—Street Beggars.—Saturday Half-Holiday.—Public Arcades.—The City Free Library.—The Public Markets.—China-Town, Melbourne.—Victims of the Opium Habit 177-201 CHAPTER IX. A Melbourne Half-Holiday.—Inconsistency of Laborers.—Vice-Royal Residence.—Special Gold-Fields of Victoria.—Ballarat.—Great Depths in Mines.—Agricultural Interests.—Sandhurst.—The Giant Trees of Australia.—The Kangaroo.—In Victorian Forests.—Peculiar Salt Lakes.—The Bower-bird's Retreat.—The Wild Dog.—Desirable and Undesirable Emigrants.—No Place for the Intemperate 202-222 CHAPTER X. From Melbourne to Adelaide.—Capital of South Australia.—New Gold- Fields.—Agricultural Interests.—City Institutions.—Inducements to Immigrants.—Public Buildings.—A City of Churches.—Australian Ladies.—Interior of the Country.—Irrigation.—German Settlers.—The Botanical Gardens.—West Australia.—Perth the Capital.—The Pearl Fisheries.—Commercial Advantages Considered 223-245 CHAPTER XI. From Australia to Tasmania.—The River Tamar.—Bird Life.—City of Launceston.—Aborigines of the Island.—Tattooing.—Van Diemen's Land.—A Beautiful Country.—Rich Mines.—Mount Bischoff.—Down in a Gold Mine.—From Launceston to Hobart.—Rural Aspects.—Capital of Tasmania.—Street Scenes.—A Former Penal Depot.—Mount Wellington.—Personal Beauty.—An Unbecoming Fashion 246-268 [Pg x]CHAPTER XII. Lake District of Tasmania.—Mount Wellington.—Kangaroos.—The Big Trees.—A Serenade.—The Albatross.—Marksmanship at Sea.—Dust of the Ocean.—A Storm.—Franklin's Proposition.—A Feathered Captive.—Bluff Oysters.—Most Southerly Hotel in the World.— Invercargill.—Historical Matters.—Geographical.—The Climate of New Zealand.—Colonial Hospitality 269-298 CHAPTER XIII. The City of Dunedin.—Scotch Residents.—The Enchanter's Wand.—Chain-Cable Tramways.—Volcanic Effects.—The Salvation Army.—Local Gold-Fields.—Enormous Aggregate Product.—Trees and Flowers.—The Rabbit Pest.—Port Littleton.—Market Day in Christchurch.—An Interesting City.—Wonderful Extinct Bird.— Strange Record of an Unknown Race.—The New Zealand Forests 299-321 CHAPTER XIV. Capital of New Zealand.—About the Native Race.—A City of Shops.— Local Earthquakes.—Large Glaciers.—McNab's Gardens.—A Public Nuisance.—Napier.—Maori Peculiarities.—Native Language.— Mythology.—Christianizing Savages.—Gisborne.— Cruelty to Dumb Animals.—Shag Island.—Sir George Gray's Pleasant Home.—Oysters Growing on New Zealand Trees! 322-343 CHAPTER XV. Historical Glance at Auckland.—A Remarkable Volcanic Region.—City Institutions.—Queen Street and Its Belongings.—Mount Eden.—Comprehensive View.—Labor Unions.—The Public Debt.— Kauri Forests.—Production of Kauri Gum.—Environs of Auckland.—The Native Flora.—An Admirable Climate.—A Rich Mineral District.—Agricultural Development 344-364 [Pg xi]CHAPTER XVI. A Journey to the King's Country.—An Experienced "Whip."—Volcanic Hills.—A New Zealand Forest.—A Strangely Afflicted Boy.—Lake Rotorua.—Ohinemutu.—Funeral of a Maori Chief.—Wailing and Weeping.—Moonlight on the Lake.—Wonderland.—Spouting Geysers and Boiling Pools.—Savage Mode of Slaughter.—Maori Houses.— Chivalry and Cannibalism.—Savage and Civilized Life 365-385 CHAPTER XVII. The Maori Dog.—A Romantic Island.—Sinking of a Maori Fort.—Volcanic Destruction.—A Country of Boiling Springs.— Idleness.—A Lazy Race of Savages.—Native Religion.—A Fitful Geyser.—Sophia, the Famous Guide.—A Funeral Dance.—The "Haka" Performance.—Maori Improvidence.—Rubbing Noses.—Native Babies.—Church-Going and Card-Playing.—The King's Country.—Eloquent Aborigines.—A Sanitarium.—Sulphur Point.—Future of New Zealand 386-405

BIOGRAPHY OF REV. HOSEA BALLOU. By His Youngest Son Maturin M. Ballou

CONTENTS. CHAPTER I INTRODUCTORY 9 CHAPTER II BIRTH AND PARENTAGE 14 CHAPTER III EARLY LIFE 22 CHAPTER IV BECOMES A PROFESSOR OF RELIGION 38 CHAPTER V COMMENCES TO PREACH 52 CHAPTER VI BECOMES A SETTLED MINISTER 64 CHAPTER VII REMOVES TO PORTSMOUTH, N. H. 89 CHAPTER VIII SETTLES IN BOSTON 103 CHAPTER IX COMMENCES THE UNIVERSALIST MAGAZINE 120 CHAPTER X COMMENCES THE UNIVERSALIST EXPOSITOR 136 CHAPTER XI DOMESTIC AND PERSONAL CHARACTERISTICS 173 CHAPTER XII MR BALLOU AS A CONTROVERSIALIST 231 CHAPTER XIII SPIRIT OF HIS DOCTRINE 258 CHAPTER XIV SENTIMENTS RELATIVE TO DEATH 322 CHAPTER XV END OF HIS EARTHLY MISSION 366 CHAPTER XVI CONCLUSION 392

EQUATORIAL AMERICA Descriptive Of A Visit To St. Thomas Martinique, Barbadoes, And The Principal Capitals Of South America By Maturin M. Ballou CONTENTS page CHAPTER I.

Commencement of a Long Journey.—The Gulf Stream.—Hayti.—Sighting St. Thomas.—Ship Rock.—Expert Divers.—Fidgety Old Lady.—An Important Island.—The Old Slaver.—Aborigines.—St. Thomas Cigars.—Population.—Tri-Mountain.—The Negro Paradise.—Hurricanes.—Variety of Fish.—Coaling Ship.—The Firefly Dance.—A Weird Scene.—An Antique Anchor 1 CHAPTER II.

Curious Seaweed.—Professor Agassiz.—Myth of a Lost Continent.—Island of Martinique.—An Attractive Place.—Statue of the Empress Josephine.—Birthplace of Madame de Maintenon.—City of St. Pierre.—Mont Pelée.—High Flavored Specialty.—Grisettes of Maritinque.—A Botanical Garden.—Defective Drainage.—A Fatal Enemy.—A Cannibal Snake.—The Climate 33 CHAPTER III.

English Island of Barbadoes.—Bridgetown the Capital.—The Manufacture of Rum.—A Geographical Expert.—Very English.—A Pest of Ants.—Exports.—The Ice House.—A Dense Population.—Educational.—Marine Hotel.—Habits of Gambling.—Hurricanes.—Curious Antiquities.—The Barbadoes Leg.—Wakeful Dreams.—Absence of Twilight.—Departure from the Island 51