Chapter I: Front Matter

Every attempt has been made to replicate the original book as printed. Some typographical errors have been corrected. A list follows the text. No attempt has been made to correct or normalize the printed accentuation or spelling of French and Italian names or words. Some illustration-markings have been moved from mid-paragraph for ease of reading. (etext transcriber's note)

Italian Highways and Byways From a Motor Car

_WORKS OF_

_FRANCIS MILTOUN_

_Rambles on the Riviera_ $2.50

_Rambles in Normandy_ 2.50

_Rambles in Brittany_ 2.50

_The Cathedrals and Churches of the Rhine_ 2.50

_The Cathedrals of Northern France_ 2.50

_The Cathedrals of Southern France_ 2.50

_In the Land of Mosques and Minarets_ 3.00

_Castles and Chateaux of Old Touraine and the Loire Country_ 3.00

_Castles and Chateaux of Old Navarre and the Basque Provinces_ 3.00

_Italian Highways and Byways from a Motor Car_ 3.00

_The Automobilist Abroad_ _net_ 3.00

_Postage Extra_

_L. C. PAGE & COMPANY_

_New England Building, Boston, Mass._

Italian Highways and
Byways from a Motor Car

BY FRANCIS MILTOUN

_O. N. I._

Author of "Castles and Chateaux of Old Touraine," "Castles and
Chateaux of Old Navarre," "In the Land of Mosques and
Minarets," etc.

_With Pictures_

BY BLANCHE MCMANUS

BOSTON
L. C. PAGE & COMPANY
1909

_Copyright, 1909_
BY L. C. PAGE & COMPANY
(INCORPORATED)

_All rights reserved_

First Impression, May, 1909

Electrotyped and Printed at
THE COLONIAL PRESS:
C. H. Simonds & Co., Boston, U.S.A.

CHAPTER PAGE

I. THE WAY ABOUT ITALY 1

II. OF ITALIAN MEN AND MANNERS 23

III. CHIANTI AND MACARONI 41

IV. ITALIAN ROADS AND ROUTES 60

V. IN LIGURIA 81

VI. THE RIVIERA DI LEVANTE 108

VII. ON TUSCAN ROADS 124

VIII. FLORENTINE BACKGROUNDS 144

IX. THE ROAD TO ROME 164

X. THE CAMPAGNA AND BEYOND 181

XI. LA BELLA NAPOLI 196

XII. THE BEAUTIFUL BAY OF NAPLES 207

XIII. ACROSS UMBRIA TO THE ADRIATIC 225

XIV. BY ADRIATIC'S SHORE 237

XV. ON THE VIA ÆMILIA 260

XVI. I VENETIA 277

XVII. THROUGH ITALIAN LAKELAND 309

XVIII. MILAN AND THE PLAINS OF LOMBARDY 333

XIX. TURIN AND THE ALPINE GATEWAYS 346

XX. FROM THE ITALIAN LAKES TO THE RIVIERA 360

INDEX 371

PAGE

IN BOLOGNA (_See page_ 266) _Frontispiece_

MAP OF ITALY _facing_ 2

ITALY IN THE XVIII CENTURY (map) 24

BARBERINO DI MUGELLO _facing_ 26

A CHIANTI SELLER _facing_ 32

A WAYSIDE TRATTORIA _facing_ 42

ROAD MAP OF NORTH ITALY _facing_ 72

ITALIAN ROAD SIGNS 77

PROFILE ROAD MAP, BOLOGNA--FLORENCE 79

PALAZZO DORIA, GENOA _facing_ 100

GENOA (map) 101

SUN DIAL, GENOA 106

RAPALLO _facing_ 110

RAPALLO AND ITS GULF (map) 111

LUCCA (arms) 122

ON A TUSCAN HIGHWAY _facing_ 124

FLORENCE AND ITS PALACES (map) 134

TORCH-HOLDERS, PALAZZO STROZZI, FLORENCE 136

PALAZZO VECCHIO, FLORENCE _facing_ 136

A LANTERN, PALAZZO STROZZI, FLORENCE 137

SAN GIMIGNANO _facing_ 138

VOLTERRA (map) 140

VILLA PALMIERI (diagram) 148

FIESOLE 150

PALAZZO DELLA SIGNORIA, SIENA _facing_ 164

ORVIETO _facing_ 168

ARMS OF VARIOUS PAPAL FAMILIES 172

CASTLE OF SANT'ANGELO, ROME _facing_ 174

PALAZZO VATICANO (diagram) 175

THE BORGIA WINDOW, ROME _facing_ 176

PAPAL ARMS OF CAESAR BORGIA 177

ARMS OF A MEDICIS PRELATE 178

VILLA MEDICI, ROME _facing_ 178

SUBIACO _facing_ 190

VILLA D'ESTE, TIVOLI _facing_ 192

HADRIAN'S VILLA (diagram) 194

NAPLES (diagram) 196

CASTELLO DELL'OVO, NAPLES _facing_ 202

THE BAY OF NAPLES (map) 208

ISCHIA _facing_ 212

LAVA BEDS OF VESUVIAS (map) 213

THE EXCAVATIONS OF POMPEII (diagram) 216

THE ENVIRONS OF POMPEII _facing_ 218

ASSISI (arms) 228

ASSISI: ITS WALLS, CASTLE, AND CHURCH (diagram) 229

ARCHITECTURAL DETAIL, PERUGIA _facing_ 230

PALAZZO DUCALE, URBINO _facing_ 232

BRINDISI; THE TERMINAL COLUMN OF THE APPIAN WAY 240

TRAJAN'S ARCH, ANCONA _facing_ 242

CASTEL MALATESTA, RIMINI _facing_ 244

PALAZZO DI TEODORICO, RAVENNA _facing_ 248

COLUMN TO GASTON DE FOIX, RAVENNA 249

THE MADONNA OF CHIOGGIA 252

BORGIA ARMS 254

FERRARA _facing_ 254

CASA DEL PETRARCA, ARQUA 259

BOLOGNA (diagram) 267

THE LEANING TOWERS OF BOLOGNA _facing_ 268

PARMA (arms) 272

PIACENZA (diagram) 275

PADUA (arms) 278

IN PADUA _facing_ 280

PALACES OF THE GRAND CANAL, VENICE (diagram) 289

THE SO-CALLED "HOUSE OF DESDEMONA," VENICE _facing_ 290

ASOLO 296

VICENZA (diagram) 300

VICENZA _facing_ 302

SEAL OF VERONA 304

PALLAZZO DUCAL, MANTUA 311

ON THE LAGO DI GARDA _facing_ 314

CASTLE OF BRESCIA _facing_ 316

BERGAMO _facing_ 318

THE ITALIAN LAKES (map) 319

ON THE LAGO DI COMO _facing_ 322

CADENABBIA 324

ON THE LAGO DI MAGGIORE _facing_ 326

ORTA _facing_ 330

A LOMBARD FÊTE _facing_ 334

THE ANCIENT CASTLE OF MILAN _facing_ 338

THE IRON CROWN OF LOMBARDY 345

PALAZZO MADONNA, TURIN _facing_ 346

ON THE STRADA, MONCENISIO _facing_ 350

CASTLE OF FÉNIS _facing_ 358

Italian Highways and Byways

From a Motor Car