Chapter XIV: Part II: Italy Revisited (4)

We have had to put off our journey until Saturday. They wouldn't undertake to keep us reserved compartments, not even sleeping, until Saturday, there would be such a crowd. I don't exactly know why, for the President left this morning, going south, and we, of course, are coming north, but every one told me not to go, so we have telegraphed to the Ruspolis to say we would go out and breakfast with them at Nemi.

There were quantities of affiches posted everywhere this morning which I shouldn't think would please either the King of Italy or the French President: "Viva Loubet--Viva Combes--Viva la France anticlericale."

Josephine and I went for a drive. It had rained all the morning, and was grey and damp, but we didn't mind. We both of us love the Campagna in all its varying aspects. We walked about for some time, but had difficulty in choosing our ground, on account of the shepherds' dogs, which are very fierce sometimes, and the troops of buffaloes. Josephine had a disagreeable experience one day with the buffaloes. She was walking on the Campagna with her small children and her Italian footman, when suddenly a troop of these wild creatures charged down upon her at a headlong pace. There was no refuge of any kind near; the footman, frightened to death, promptly ran away. She was terrified, but didn't lose her head. She stood quite still, the children clinging to her skirts, and the herd divided, passing by on either side; but she might have been trampled to death. Naturally she has given them a wide berth since.

Friday, April 29th.

I will finish to-night dear, as we have come upstairs early after a long day in the country. The trunks are all ready, some of them downstairs, and we start early to-morrow morning. They say the confusion yesterday at the station, when the President departed, was awful, people--ladies--rushing about distractedly trying to find places, no footmen allowed inside, not enough porters to carry the heavy dressing-bags and rouleaux. Some people couldn't get any places, could only start last night.

We had a pleasant day at Nemi. We went out by train. There were a good many people, evidently starting for the regular round of Castelli Romani, principally English and Americans, and principally women, very few men, but large parties, six and seven, of women and girls. It is a pretty road across the Campagna and up the steep hill to Albano, and as our speed was not terrifying we had ample time to see everything. The Ruspoli carriage was waiting for us, and we had a beautiful drive to Nemi. It is really a lovely little place--the deep blue lake at the foot of the hills, and all the country about us green. Our hosts were waiting for us in one of the numerous salons, and we had time to go over the castle a little before breakfast, which we had in a charming old-fashioned room, with wonderful frescoes on the walls. They have already done wonders in the old feudal castle, and I should think it would be a charming summer residence, as no heat could penetrate these thick walls. The view from the balcony was divine, over green slopes and little woods to the lake.

We missed our train at Albano, so drove on to Castel Gandolfo and waited there for the next one. We had gouter in a lovely little pergola overlooking the lake of Albano, with the great papal villa opposite. It is not very interesting as to architecture, a large square pile. No Pope has lived there since Pio Nono. I believe some French nuns are settled there now.

It was very warm walking about the little old town, which looked as if it had been asleep for years--no one in the streets, no beggars even, no movement of any kind. Just as we were starting for the station three or four carriages filled with tourists rattled through. It is curious to see how life seems to go on in just the same grooves in all these little towns. Rome has so changed--changes so all the time--is getting cosmopolitan, a great capital; but all these little mountain villages seem quite the same as in the old days of Savellis, Colonnas, and Orsinis, when most of the great feudal chiefs were at daggers drawn and all the country fought over, and changing hands after each fierce encounter. The few people one meets look peaceful enough, but on the smallest provocation eyes flash, tones and gestures get loud and threatening, but apparently they calm down at once and are on the whole, I fancy, a lazy, peaceable population.

It is warm to-night, the windows are open and the Marseillaise still has the honours of the night--one hears it everywhere.

INDEX

Albano, 30

Alberti, 20-21

Alfieri, 105

Allessandri, Carlo, 27, 35

Altieri, Cardinal, death of, 30

Angelico, Fra, 39

Antonelli, Cardinal, 61, 284, 288, 306

d'Aosta, Duke, 223

Apponyi, Count, 73

Arbuthnot, Miss, 26

d'Asoli, 271

d'Asoli, Princess, 254

d'Aubigny, M. and Madame, 45

d'Aulnay, 62, 116

d'Aulnay, Comtesse, 57

Austria, Emperor of, 177

d'Autas, 295

Baddeley, Mr., 280

Bailey, Mrs., 76

Bailleul, Madame de, 230;
received by the Queen, 240, 244, 257

Bandini, Prince, 144

Bandini, Princess, 51, 54, 63, 69, 145;
gives musicale, 146

Beauharnais, Comtesse de, 116

Bertheny, Countess de, 262

Bibra, 62, 69, 143, 145

Bicletis, Monsignor, 249, 250, 251, 255

Bishop, Mr. and Mrs., 299

Bonghi, 105

Borghese, Giovanni, 266

Brancaccio, Princess, 93

Brandt, Otto, 102

Brinquant, 21

Bruce, Mrs., 41, 50, 51;
gives dinner, 68-69, 89, 106, 169, 174

Brusatti, General, 275

Bruschi, Countess, 306

Bunsen, Charles de, 14, 34;
arrives at Rome, 108, 110, 114, 118;
returns to Florence, 119, 180

Bunsen, Madame de, 14, 15, 34, 179, 180, 254, 288

Cabat, M., 117

Cabriac, Marquis de, 71

Cairoli, 45, 52, 64, 80;
speaks in Chamber, 83;
gives dinner, 96-98

Cairoli, Madame, 45, 51, 64, 68;
gives dinner, 96-98

Calabrini, 51, 56, 62, 63, 67, 81

Calice, Countess, 67

Cameron, Mrs., 311

Caprannica, Bianca, 142

Caprannica, Marchesa, 142

Cardenas, the, give dinner, 144

Cavaletti, Maurizio, 69

Cavour, 84, 223, 224

Celleri, Countess, 80, 99

Cenci, 54

Cesarini, Marquise Villa, 253

Chambord, Comte de, 117

Charles Albert, King of Savoy, 220

Charette, 120

Chigi, Marquise, 89

Cialdini, 67

Coello, Count, 148

Colobiano, Count, 222

Colonna, Prince, 282, 283, 306

Colonna, Princess, death of, 30

Comandi, 29

Cook, 91, 95

Crosby, Schuyler, 37

Curtis, Bessie, 61, 230

Daudet, M., 200

Del Monte, 108, 148;
walk with, 172

Despretis, Madame, 51

Desprez, 45, 55, 57, 71, 92, 144

Diemor, 248

Director of Museum at Milan, 186, 199, 212, 216

Doria, 100

Doria, Gwendoline, 81

Edwards, Mrs., 65

Edwards, Hon. Sylvia, 65

Elena, Queen of Italy, gives audience, 240-242;
at the court ball, 243, 253, 299;
at the opera, 310;
gives reception in honour of President Loubet, 312

English, Monsignor, 63, 66, 79;
brings Pope's photograph, 155

d'Eu, Comte and Comtesse, 250

Evans, Father, 268

Field, Mr., 245

Field, Mrs., 237, 305

Forbes, Misses, 26, 184

Frankenstein, Countess, 309

Freycinet, 5, 60

Freycinet, Madame de, 6

Fua, Teresina, 248

Gabriac, Marquis de, 144

Garibaldi, 120, 122

Genoa, Duchess of, 287, 288

Geoffroy, 62, 63, 64, 89, 117, 168

Geoffroy, Madame, 117

Germany, Crown Princess of, 101, 104, 108, 109, 207;
daughters of, 210

Gianotti, Count, 243, 262

Gianotti, Countess, gives afternoon tea, 262

Gittone, 275

Gosselins, 108, 109

Gounod, 296

Grants, 51

Gravina, 96

Greppi, Comte, 275

Grevy, Madame, 9, 11

Guadagni, Madame, 34

Guery, Don, 272, 279

Guglielmi, Marquis, 298

Helena, Queen of Italy, see Elena

Hoffman, Mr., 216, 222, 223

Hohenlohe, Cardinal, 165

Hooker Mr., 51, 66, 120;
gives dinner, 142, 174;
recollections, 176

Howard, Cardinal, 50, 61, 70, 75, 109, 147

Hubert, 225

Hubert, Madame, 13, 47, 58, 63, 71, 168, 185, 188, 196, 200, 203, 216, 221

Humbert, King of Italy, 65, 66;
birthday, 76, 79, 91

Ireland, Monsignor, 23

Ismail, Pasha, ex-Khedive of Egypt, 76

Kahn, Malcolm, 275

Keats, John, 286

Keudell, 101-103, 106, 108

Keudell, Madame, 102, 103, 108

King, Charles, 30;
death of, 119-120

King, Fanny, 176

King, Henrietta, 124, 134, 218

King, Mrs., 123, 132, 134, 137, 139

King, William, 124, 132

Kruft, 5

Lanciani, 44, 63, 88, 89, 159

Landi, Madame, 40

Law, Mrs., 275

Leuchtenberg, Duke of, 116

Loubet, President, 305;
reception of, 306-307;
at the opera, 309-310;
at the reception at the Farnese Palace, 312, 314

Lovatellis, 51, 94

Low, Mr. and Mrs. Seth, 273

Lucchesi-Palli, 117

Lyons, Lord, 7

MacMahon, Madame de, 10, 11

MacMahon, Marshal, 10, 73

Maffei, 64, 97, 108, 159

Malatesta, Felice, 59, 61, 86, 94, 108

Malatesta, Countess, 75

Maquay, George, 32, 35, 184

Maquay, Louisa, 36, 184

Maquay, Nina, 36, 184

Marcello, Comtesse, 93, 95, 98

Margherita, Queen of Italy, 220, 234;
gives audience, 253, 285, 287

Marina, Marquise Villa, 253, 285, 287

Massari, 87, 105

Massimo, Prince, 74, 218, 255, 272

Mathieu, Cardinal, 254, 255, 304, 306

Medici, Catherine de', 33

Menabrea, 67

Meyers, the, give dinner, 304

Michelangelo, 59

Minghetti, 52, 56, 69, 81, 105, 181-183

Minghetti, Madame, 51, 52, 56, 57, 69, 81;
receives, 105, 108

Mirafiori, Comtesse, 183

Mohl, Madame, 50

Murrays, 209, 210-211

Mustel, M. Alphonse, 279, 280, 285;
plays before Queen Margherita, 287

Naples, Prince of, 86, 94

Napoleon, Louis, 84, 223

Nassau, Duke of, 28

Nevin, Dr., 48, 88, 242

Nina, Cardinal, 61, 80

Nisard, M., 240

Noailles, Marquis de, 45, 48, 87, 98

Noailles, Marquise de, 48, 51, 56, 57;
gives dinner, 64, 87, 96, 100;
receives, 107, 108;
gives farewell dinner to the Waddingtons, 159

Norton, Mrs., 139-142

Orloff, Prince, 10

Orsini, Prince, 295

"Ouida," 27;
description of, 28

Ouronsoff, Prince, 244

Paget, Sir Augustus, 51, 64, 82, 102, 109

Paget, Lady, 51, 57, 64;
receives, 89, 102, 109

Palfy, Count, 52, 70, 92;
conversation with, 174

Pallavicini, Princess, 51, 54, 67;
gives reception, 86-87, 246;
receives, 277

Pannissera, Madame, 107

Pasetti, Baron, 242

Paul, Duchess of Mecklenburg, 297

Pecoul, Therese, 273

Perret, 68

Peruzzi, Edith, 18, 36, 108, 184

Peruzzi, Ubaldino, 181, 206

Pierson, 4

Pietro, 267, 310

Pietro, Cardinal di, 79

Poggio-Suasa, Princess di (nee Curtis), 230, 238, 244, 248;
gives dinner, 259, 262, 266;
gives dinner, 273, 285, 286, 291, 292, 294, 304, 305, 313

Poggio-Suasa, Princess di (nee Talleyrand-Perigord), 305

Polk, Antoinette, 160

Pontecoulant, Comte de, 8, 12

Pope Leo XIII, 58;
audience with, 59;
described, 59, 60, 71, 146;
in his garden, 155, 156, 250

Pope Pius IX, 56, 58, 59, 69;
how he was received in the streets when he rode out, 146;
description of the blessing from the balcony of St. Peter's,
157-158, 250, 264, 315

Pope Pius X, audience with, 249-251;
description of, 250

Primoli, 144

Queen of Naples, Dowager, death of, 30

Ramee, Mlle. de la, 27

Rampolla, Cardinal, 295

Recamier, Madame, 168

Rignano, Madame, 99

Ripaldi, Duke di, 57, 100, 159

Ristori, Madame, 142

Roccagiovine, Marchese, 266

Rodmans, 233

Rossi, de, 89

Rothschild, Madame Alphonse, 99

Rudini, Marchesa, gives fete, 272

Ruspoli, Camillo, 289, 291, 298

Ruspoli, Don Emanuele, 231, 263

Ruspoli, Victoria, 255;
gives dinner, 276, 315

St. Asilea, 87, 98

Sand, George, 38

Sant' Onofrio, Madame de, 96

Savonarola, 39

Savoy, Princes of, 94

Saxe-Weimar, Grand Duchess, 259, 297

Say, Leon, 60

Schuyler, Eugene, 35, 41, 42, 44, 56, 69, 77, 110, 112, 142

Schuyler, Mrs. Eugene ("Gert"), 35, 41, 42, 44, 61, 62, 63, 64, 67, 69;
trouble with maid, 76-78, 79, 80, 82, 89, 92, 108, 110, 113, 118, 124,
132, 142;
at Tivoli, 161;
gives farewell dinner, 174, 197

Sciarra, Princess, 49, 89

Seckendorff, Count, 103, 105, 108

Sella, 81, 84, 105

Sermoneta, Duke of, 54

Serristori, 35

Sibbern, Madame, 5

Smith, Father, 55, 79, 87, 91;
presents a medal, 160, 174;
conversations with, 177

Somaglia, Countess, 81, 87, 98, 117;
her daughters, 117

Spencer, Mrs. Lorillard, 83

Stael, Madame de, 168

Stanley, Dean, 50

Stanley, Lady Augusta, 50

Sternberg, Mlle. de, 15, 18

Story, Mrs., 286

Story, Waldo, 239, 304

Story, W. W., 18, 109, 239

Sulmona, 72-73

Sulmona, Princess, 73, 87, 144

Sutteroth, M. Alphonse, 5, 8, 200, 227

Talleyrand-Perigord, Charles de, 26

Talleyrand-Perigord, Madame de, 27, 61

Talleyrand-Perigord, Marquise de (nee Curtis), 230, 237, 242, 244;
audience with the Pope, 249-251, 262, 266, 267, 275, 285, 290, 302, 304;
leaves Rome, 307

Tchaitcheff, Madame de, 16, 25

Teano, Prince, 51, 54, 56, 105

Teano, Princess, gives ball, 99, 272

Theoduli, Marchesa, 83

Thomar, 71

Thurn, Princess de, 54

Tosti, 145;
described and criticised, 147

Townshend, Mrs. Charles L., 95

Trocchi, 48;
sends flowers, 169

Troubetzkoi, Princess Lise, 98

Turin, Comte de, 243

Turkam, Pasha, 76, 101

Uffizi, 36

Uxkull, 64, 81

Val, Cardinal Mery del, audience with, 251-252

Valery, Dr., 30, 77, 120

Van Loo, 62

Vannutelli, Cardinal Serafino, 295

Vannutelli, Cardinal Vincenzo, 240;
dinner given for, 273, 295, 306

Van Rensselaer, Mrs., 67, 118

Van Schaick, Lottie, 16, 17, 35, 40, 184

Venosta, Visconti, 52;
speaks in Chamber, 80, 83, 105, 159

Venosta, Madame Visconti, 64, 81, 89, 107

Vera, 108

Vicovaro, Princess, 83, 85

Victor Emmanuel, King of Italy, 218, 220, 231

Victor Emmanuel III, King of Italy, at the court ball, 243, 277, 299;
receives President Loubet, 306-307;
at the Opera, 310;
gives reception in honour of President Loubet, 312

Villamarina, Marquis de, 81, 87

Virgo, M., 245, 266, 279

Visconti, 89

Vitali, Count, gives dinner for French Ambassador, 240

Vitelleschi, 67, 69, 87, 279

Vitelleschi, Marchesa, gives tea, 278

Waddington, Evelyn, 61

Waddington, Francis, has Christmas tree, 5;
left in Paris, 12, 108, 225, 251

WADDINGTON, Madame, leaves Quai d'Orsay, 3-4;
calls on Madame de Freycinet, 6;
formal receptions, 8;
receives Mesdames Grevy and MacMahon, 11;
arrives at Florence, 12;
arrives at M. de Bunsen's, 14;
atypical Florentine party, 18;
a visit from Alberti, 20;
recalls picnic at Segna, 20-22;
visits the Ponte Vecchio, 24;
drives to Santa Maria Novella, 25;
tea at Camerata, 26;
dines with Talleyrand-Perigord, 26;
takes tea with "Ouida," 27;
impressions of "Ouida," 28;
drives to Villa Careggi, 31;
drives to the Certosa and Casa Guadagni, 34;
decides to go to Rome, 35;
Maquay dinner, 35;
drives out Fiesole way, 37;
visits Fra Angelico's and Savonarola's cells at San Marco, 39;
musical evening with the Landis, 40;
arrives at Rome, 41;
her father's illness, 42;
calls on Eugene Schuyler, 44;
invitations from Embassies, 44;
drives along the Via Appia, 45;
visit to the Vatican, 47;
visit from the Marquis de Noailles, 48;
Princess Sciarra's ball, 49;
recollections of Dean Stanley and Cardinal Howard, 50;
reception at the Schuylers', 51;
reception at Princess Pallavicini's, 54;
pointed out as distinguished strangers, 55;
dinner at the Teanos', 56;
breakfast at the Noailles', 57;
audience with the Pope, 58-60;
dinner at the of, 63;
dinner at the Noailles', 64;
attends the opera, 69;
dines at the Portuguese Embassy, 71-74;
dines with the Pagets, 81;
dinner at the Calabrinis', 84;
attends American Church, 88;
walk on Good Friday, 90;
service at St. Peter's, 90;
service at St. John Lateran, 91;
note from the Quirinal, 92;
audience with the Queen of Italy, 92-95;
meets the Prince of Naples, 94;
breakfast with the Noailles, 95;
sees Farnese Palace, 95;
visits the Bakers' tomb, 96;
dines with the Cairoli, 96-98;
day at the races, 98-99;
protests against "valise" regulations, 98;
attends Teano ball, 99;
visits the Trevi Fountain, 100;
tea with the Duke di Ripaldo, 100;
dines at German Embassy and meets German Crown Princess, 102-105;
attends reception at the Noailles', 107;
musical evening at the Schuylers', 108;
dinner with the Wimpffens, 108;
meets Crown Princess again, 109;
excursion to Frascati, 110;
fails to visit Tusculum, 112, 113;
trip to the Vatican, 114-115;
ball at the British Embassy, 116;
dinner at Villa Medici, 117;
recollections of 1867, 119;
goes to Naples, 119;
sees Vesuvius in eruption, 123;
ascends Mt. Vesuvius, 124-125;
a long wait at an inn, 126-130;
fete at the Stella del Mare, 135;
the nun, 135;
sail to Capri, 136;
Capri, 137;
a Capri fisher-girl, 139-141;
dinner at Mr. Hooker's, 142;
visit to the Doria Gallery, 143;
dines at the Spanish Embassy, 144;
musicale at Princess Bandini's, 146;
hears Lohengrin in Italian, 148;
drives to Albano, 149-153;
last turn in the Vatican, 154;
receives the Pope's photograph, 155;
drives to the Villa Madama, 157;
farewell dinner at the Noailles', 159;
a day at Tivoli, 161-165;
a lonely road, 167;
last drive in the country, 169;
walk with Del Monte, 173;
arrives at Milan, 180;
attends the races, 183;
holds small reception, 184;
a drive about Milan, 187;
a visit to the Brera, 188-189;
visit to the Duomo, 190;
a second visit to the Brera, 192-193;
describes the Piazza dei Mercanti, 201, 202;
an afternoon at Monza, 204-206;
leaves Milan and arrives at Turin, 211;
trip to La Superga, 219-221;
returns to Paris, 225;
Rome revisited, 229;
attends a ball at the Storys', 239;
dinner at Count Vitali's, 240;
received by the Queen, 240-242;
attends the court ball, 243-244;
in the garden of the Vatican, 247;
music at the French Embassy, 248;
audience with the Pope, 249-251;
audience with Cardinal Mery del Val, 251-252;
audience with Queen Margherita, 253;
breakfast with Princess d'Arsoli, 254;
at the Pope's audience, 255-256;
an expedition to the Catacombs, 257;
dines with Princess Poggio-Suasa, 259;
automobile excursion with Countess de Bertheny, 262-265;
trip to Tusculum, 267;
special guards, 269;
fete at the Massimo Palace, 271;
fete given by Marchesa Rudini, 272;
dines with Malcolm Kahn, 275;
dines with the Ruspolis, 276;
Holy Thursday at St. Peter's, 281;
visits her father's grave, 285;
a musical evening at the Palace, 287-288;
excursion to San Gregorio, 289-291;
attends ceremony at St. Peter's, the 13th anniversary of Pope Gregorio
Magno, 292-296;
children's ball, 297-298;
auto trips with the Bishops, 299-301;
reception at the Villa Medicis, 303;
dines with the Meyers, 304;
dines with the Grand Duchess, 305;
reception of President Loubet, 306-307;
attends gala night at the opera, 309-310;
reception at the Farnese Palace, 312-313

_Waddington_, M. William H., resigns as Premier, 3;
refuses London Embassy, 6;
leaves Paris and arrives at Florence, 12;
arrives at M. de Bunsen's, 14;
attends the Peruzzis' party and meets Bentivoglio, 18;
dines with Talleyrand-Perigord, 26;
calls on Madame Guadagni, 34;
arrival at Rome, 41;
talks with Eugene Schuyler, 44;
various invitations from Embassies, 44;
visit to the Vatican, 47;
visit from Marquis de Noailles, 48;
reception in his honour at the Schuylers', 51;
pointed out as a celebrated man, 55;
has audience with the Pope and converses about politics, 50-60;
the Pope's opinion of him, 63;
dinner at the Noailles', "Cotelettes a la Waddington," 64;
has audience with King Humbert, 65-66;
meets Cardinal Howard, 70;
curiosity to meet him, 75;
attends the Chambre des Deputes, 80;
second visit to the Chambre des Deputes, 83;
goes to San Clemente, 87;
walk on the Campagna, 88;
audience with the Queen of Italy, 92-95;
insists on "valise" reform, 98;
delighted with di Ripalda's frescoes, etc., 101;
conversation with Turkam Bey, 101;
received by the German Crown Princess, 103;
dines with de Rossi, 118;
change of mental atmosphere, 147;
trip to Albano, 149-153;
last visit to the Vatican, 154;
conversation with Father Smith, 177;
speech-making, 181;
visits the cabinet de medailles at Milan, 186;
a visit to the Brera, 192-193;
receives Mr. Hoffman, 223-224;
arrives in Paris, 225

Wales, Princess of, 242

Wallace, Sir Donald, 281

Weling, Mlle. de, 28

Westenberg, Madame, 68

Wilbrahams, the, 69

Wimpffen, Count, 64, 81, 89, 107, 242

Wimpffen, Comtesse, 56;
gives dinner, 62, 64, 68, 83;
gives reception, 84-87, 89, 98, 105;
dinner to German Crown Princess, 108-109

Wurts, Mr. and Mrs., 69;
give dinner, 248, 284, 285

Zuylen, Cornelie, 83

* * * * *

Transcriber's note:

Spelling has been made consistent throughout but reflects the author's preference. Hyphenation has been made consistent.