Chapter I: Front Matter

ITALIAN
YESTERDAYS

BY

MRS. HUGH FRASER

Author of “A Diplomatist’s Wife in Japan,”
“A Diplomatist’s Wife in Many Lands,”
“Reminiscences of a Diplomatist’s
Wife,” etc.

VOL. I

NEW YORK
DODD, MEAD AND COMPANY
1913

COPYRIGHT, 1913, BY
DODD, MEAD AND COMPANY
Published November, 1913

CONTENTS OF VOL. I

CHAPTER I

PAGE

IMPRESSIONS OF EARLY ROME 1

Romance and Companionship of the Past—Rome the Supremely
Beloved—Pictures and Legends of Her Origin—Migration of
the Alban Shepherds—Romulus and Remus—Etruria’s
Civilisation—Whole World Contributes to Rome’s
Growth—Brilliant Scenes in the Roman World—Rome’s High
Destiny—Numa Pompilius, the Law-giver—Egeria’s
Grotto—Love Story of Herodes Atticus and Annia
Regilla—Early Christianity.

CHAPTER II

REMINISCENCES OF MODERN ROME 18

Rome’s Seasons—Childhood Memories of a Roman Spring—My
Birthday Festival—A Day in the Country—The Appian
Way—Rome’s Great Wall—An Adventure with the Campagna
Steers—Campagna Sheep-Dogs—Early Morning Street
Scenes—The Giardino Colonna—Secluded Italian
Gardens—Inroads of Commercialism—Discovery of a
Dream-Garden of the Renaissance—Song of the Nightingale
in the Lost Italian Garden.

CHAPTER III

LAST DAYS OF THE APOSTLES 34

St. Peter’s First Visit to Rome—Wide Scope of His
Work—Rome Destined to Become the Seat of Ecclesiastical
Government—St. Peter’s Early Converts—Persecution of
the Jews—Life in the Catacombs—Simon Magus and St.
Peter—Peter’s Return to Rome—Nero’s Slaughter of
Christians—Peter’s Vision—“Lord, Whither Goest
Thou?”—Preparation for Martyrdom—Last Epistle—St.
Peter’s Successor—Imprisonment of St. Peter and St.
Paul—Scenes of Final Tragedy—Crucifixion of Peter—Paul
Beheaded—Devotion of Their Followers.

CHAPTER IV

ROMAN YESTERDAYS 51

The Gods of the Roman World—Leaven of
Christianity—Measures of the Emperors Against the
Christians—Nine General Persecutions—Mad Extremes of
Heliogabalus—Rescue of the Bodies of the Apostles—Tragic
History of the Appian Way—The Joys of Solitude—How
Marion Crawford Became the Master of San Niccola—A
Solitude of Relaxation and Quiet—A Secluded Garden on
the River in Rome—The Contrasts of Life and the
Happiness in Hoping—An Artists’ Festival—How a Roman
Emperor Looked.

CHAPTER V

A FEUDAL VILLA 64

Ancient Beauty of Villa Borghese—A Sylvan Siesta—The
Woodland of the Borghese—The Heart of the Trees—The
Borghese Anemone—Vintage Time in the Grape
Countries—Tuscany, an Atmosphere of Purity and
Calm—Bunches of Grapes Two Feet Long—Muscatels of
Etruria—October Festivals at the Villa Borghese—Peasants
of the Coast Towns—Picturesque Costume of the
Albanese—Feast in the Private Garden—Fountains of
Wine—Classic Chariot Races—The Passing of the Feudal
System.

CHAPTER VI

A CHURCH PILGRIMAGE 79

Church’s Pilgrimage on the Feast of the Apostles—The
Seven Commemorative Churches—The Byzantine Basilica
of St. Paul—The Apostle’s Tomb—Ostian Way, the Saddest
of All Roads—The Tideless Sea—Call of the Unknown,
Gorgeous East—Santa Pudentiana, the Site of St. Paul’s
First Abiding Place in Rome—Christianity in Early
Rome—Priest Pastor’s Story of the Pudens Family—Holy
Relics—Story of the Crime of the Vico Scellerato—The
Last of the Roman Kings.

CHAPTER VII

THE LATER EMPERORS 94

People and Scenes of the Corso—The Collegio
Romano—Cardinal Merry del Val—Church of the Trinità
dei Monti—A Picture of the Emperor Theodosius and His
Son—The Other Boy Emperor, Gratian—The Usurper,
Maximus—Nobility of Gratian—Finally Overcome by
Treachery—Saint Ambrose—Fifth Day at St. Peter of the
Chains—Two Christian Empresses—The Miracle of the
Chains—High Mass at San Pietro—Latter Days of the
Pilgrimage—View from Janiculum Hill—Michelangelo and
Vasari—Michelangelo’s “Visiting Card.”

CHAPTER VIII

THE END OF THE PILGRIMAGE 118

Final Function of the Pilgrimage—St. John Lateran—A
Daring Climb—A Story of St. Francis of Assisi—Dante’s
Tribute—Rome’s Ghetto—Yellow Banksia Roses—Fair on the
Eve of the Feast of St. John the Baptist—Early Figs—St.
Anthony and the Sucking Pig—Rome’s Studios—A Picture of
Hébert’s—Hamon’s Work.

CHAPTER IX

ST. CECILIA 136

Persecution Result of Covetousness—Steady Growth of
Christianity—Story of Saint Cecilia—Dress of a
Patrician Woman—A Roman Marriage—Cecilia’s
Consecration—Apparition of St. Paul—Cecilia’s Guardian
Angel—Conversion of Two Roman Nobles—Slaughter of
Christians—A Declaration of Faith—Condemnation of the
Nobles.

CHAPTER X

MARTYRDOM OF ST. CECILIA 154

A Glorious Martyrdom—A Vision of Heaven—The Bodies of
the Martyrs—Prefect Incensed Against St.
Cecilia—Preparation for Death—Her Trial—Her Victory
and Martyrdom—The Miracle of Her Three Days’
Ministering—Final Honours—Martyrdom of St. Urban and
His Companions—Cecilia’s Place Among Martyrs—Her Tomb
in the Catacombs—Pope Paschal’s Vision of St.
Cecilia—Cecilia’s Restoration to Her Own Church—History
of Her Church—The Second Finding of Her Body—Her
Statue.

CHAPTER XI

THE CHURCH UNDER CONSTANTINE 181

Constantine’s Edict—St. Sylvester, the Friend of
Constantine—Refuge at Soracte—The Emperor’s Vision—“In
Hoc Vinces”—Constantine’s Baptism—The Church Has
Peace—Helena’s Basilica—The Blessing of the Golden
Rose—Origin of St. Peter’s—The Obelisk from
Heliopolis—Testimony of the Dust of the Martyrs—The
Place of the Shock of Horses—The Beauty of St.
Peter’s—Pilgrims from Britain—Charlemagne, the Blessed.

CHAPTER XII

STORY OF ALARIC 199

Pursuit of the Ideal—Alaric, the Friend of
Theodosius—Theodosius’ Dream—The Victory at the
Birnbaumer Wald—Defection of Alaric—Pictures of the
Plundering of Rome—Marcella and Principia—St. Peter’s
Treasures—Plans Against Africa—Alaric’s Death and Last
Resting-place.

CHAPTER XIII

THE SPHINX OF FRENCH HISTORY 212

The Battleground of Europe—The Riddle of “The Man in the
Iron Mask”—Its True Story—Louis XIV’s Ambition in
Italy—Plot to Secure Casale—Character of Charles, Duke
of Mantua—Count Mattioli, His Favourite—Terms of the
Transfer—Mission of the Count to Paris—Conclusion of the
Treaty—Mattioli’s Double Dealing—Ominous Delays—The
Storm Breaks.

CHAPTER XIV

TRUTH OF THE IRON MASK 226

Mattioli’s Betrayal of Louis XIV—Participation of Duke
Charles—Louis’ True Character Exhibited to
World—Abduction of Mattioli—Imprisoned for Fifteen
Years—Insanity—Story of the Mask—Mattioli’s
Disappearance No Mystery—Explanation of the
Riddle—Mattioli’s Hardships—His End.

CHAPTER XV

A “CAUSE CÉLÈBRE” 236

The Defrêne Case, a Drama of Crime and of Justice—The
Marquis Defrêne—Marie-Elizabeth du Tillay—Elopement—
Bogus Marriage—Flight to England—Marriage Made
Legal—The Marquis Tires of the Marriage State—Evil
Plans—Marie-Elizabeth Forewarned—Adventures of Her
Flight—The “Penitent” Defrêne—Compromising Letters—The
Vindication of Marie-Elizabeth—A Judicial Separation.

CHAPTER XVI

EUSTOCHIA 249

A Child of Sin—Born 1444—Her Early Peculiarities—
Physical Possession by Evil Spirits—Sent to a
Convent—A Life of Devotion—Eustochia a Novitiate—A
Supernatural Accident—Belief that She Was a
Hypocrite—Resignation—The Evil Spirit in Possession—
Frightful Torments—Evil Portents—A Sorceress?—
Imprisonment—Persecutions by Invisible Powers—Regaining
Good Esteem—A Nun—Her Sanctity and Constancy—Her Death
and Burial.

CHAPTER XVII

A SKETCH OF VERONA 270

Personality of Italian Towns—Verona—Its History—Early
Years—Ezzelino da Romano, Unique in Cruelty—Wholesale
Execution and Imprisonment—Pope Alexander IV Assails the
Monster—Ezzelino Wounded and Captured—Suicide—New Line
of Despots—Cangrande della Scala—Dante and
Petrarch—Further Lords of Verona—Later History—The
Drei Kaiser Bund.

CHAPTER XVIII

THE BRAVI OF VENICE 288

Fascination of Venice’s Criminal Administration—Lords
of the Night—Secret Detectives—Degeneration of
Republic—Hired Ruffians—Their Murderous Activities—An
Escapade of Pesaro, Paragon of Bravi—Gambara, Last of
the Despots—Open War Against Law and Order—Final Pardon.

CHAPTER XIX

LEGENDARY VENICE 298

Venice, Bride of the Sea—Its Glorious Children—Pledge
of the Crown of Thorns—The Miracle of Saint Saba’s
Relics—Intellectual Humility and Faith—St. Mark, Patron
of the Venetians—Theft of the Saint’s Remains from
Alexandria—Reception in Venice—Early History—Tales of
Hardships—The Gate of the Damsels—Legends of the Saint.

CHAPTER XX

A DOGE’S LIFE 311

A Wicked Son—Becomes Doge—His Marriage—Ambitions—
Venice a Huge Conspiracy—The Palace Surrounded—His
Fate—Venetian Ideals—Story of a Feud of the Tenth
Century—Opened with an Assassination—Murderer Upheld
by the Emperor—Venice Attacked—A Civil War in
Venice—Uprising of the Citizens—Another Doge—Building
of St. Mark’s—The Doge and the French Abbot—The Doge
Become a Monk—A Story of Marion Crawford’s.

CHAPTER XXI

“THE WEDDING OF THE SEA” 324

Origin—Venice’s Growth—Treaties with the Emperor—Pietro
Orseolo Annihilates the Pirates—Welcome on His
Return—Story of Marco Polo—A Trader with the East—A
Strange Journey—Bokhara—Capital of Kublai
Khan—Impressed with Christian Ideals—Return Journey—At
Home in Venice—Failure of Plans to Convert the
Tartars—Again in the Far East—Lost for Twenty-five
Years—Return to Venice with Vast Wealth—A Gorgeous
Banquet—Marco’s Rehabilitation—Ruskin and the Church.

CHAPTER XXII

WAR WITH GENOA 335

Supernatural Recovery of the Apostle’s Body—Ruskin’s
Account—Origin of the War—Early Life of Carlo Zeno—His
Conquests—Governor of a Province in Greece—Return to
Venice—Adventures at Constantinople—Escape of
Zeno—Tenedos Becomes Venetian—Attack of the
Genoese—Their Repulse—Carlo’s Popularity in
Venice—Pisani’s Career—Carlo Routs the Genoese—Peace—
Carlo’s Fame—His Visit to Jerusalem—Last Scuffle
with the Genoese—Life in Venice.