Chapter XI: Part 11

Rome, features of, 1;
as artistic centre, 6, 10, 114;
under Pontifical régime, 8;
Longfellow's love for, 16;
Goethe's impressions of, 20;
work of Michael Angelo and Raphael in, 22;
oldest art school of, 44;
latter-day artists in, 49;
Brownings in, 67;
social life in, 113, 127;
new bridge of, 128;
in May, 129;
in winter, 129, 130;
in spring, 130, 132;
festas in, 136;
discussed by Professor Lanciani, 138;
society in, 140, 141, 170;
two courts of, 142;
modern features of, 145;
enchanting views in, 151;
poetic symbolism in, 158-160;
of the present day, breakfast-table talk in, 162;
American Embassy in, 163;
elevator service in, 164;
American consulate in, 169;
delightful hostesses in, 171, 172;
attitude toward modern thought in, 173;
Theosophical Society of, 173, 174;
demand for apartments in, 175;
sight-seeing in, 183;
great palaces in, 187;
famous drive of, 188;
birthday celebrations of, 189;
Republic of, 190;
rich years to artists in, 192, 193;
Papal ceremonies in, 195;
curious spectacle in, 198;
Holy Week in, 200;
Good Friday service in, 200, 201;
motoring from, 204, 205;
outlying towns of, 207;
American Academy in, 214;
libraries of, 214;
Protestant cemetery of, 215;
literature of, 223;
modern spirit in, 428.

Rosa, Salvator, 234.

Rosenkrans, Baroness, 173.

Rota, 329.

Ruskin, in Rome, 12;
quoted, 398.

Sabatier, Paul, quoted, 362, 365.

Sallust, Gardens of, 140.

Salvatico, quoted, 401.

San Agostino, church of, 198.

San Caterina di Viterbo, 314.

San Francesco, church of, 345.

San Giovanni, 153.

San Marco, 394.

San Maria della Pace, 27.

San Maria dei Frari, 405.

San Silvestre, 32.

Sansovino, Jacob, work of, 399.

Santa Anna, convent of, 314.

Santa Chiara (Clara), 365;
takes vows, 366, 367;
founds convent, 368;
family history of, 368;
friendship with St. Francis of Assisi, 368;
at death of Francis, 372;
personality of, 373;
preservation of body of, 374.

Santa Domenica Maggiore, church of, 303, 331, 333.

Santa Maria Degli Angeli, 345, 365, 380.

Santa Maria del Popolo, 78-80.

Santa Maria della Salute, 405.

Santa Monica, tomb of, 199.

Scala di Spagna, 72.

Scala Santa, 155;
Luther's ascent of, 156.

Scifi, Count Favorini, 368.

Scott, Sir Walter, in Rome, 20.

Sejanus, fall of, 263.

Sermoneta, Duke of, in Rome, 18.

Severn, Joseph, grave of, 216.

Shelley, in Rome, 22;
memorial, 133;
quoted, 215;
grave of, 216.

Simmons, Franklin, in Rome, 10, 15, 91, 98;
quoted, 29;
works of, 98-112;
early life, 100;
degrees conferred upon, 103;
marriage of, 103;
latest success of, 107;
studios of, 112;
realism of, 119;
beautiful creation of, 121;
grave of, 217.

Simmons, Mrs. Franklin, in Rome, 104;
death of, 112;
estimate of, 112;
grave of, 218.

Sindoni, Turillo, 144.

Sistine Chapel, art in, 177.

Sorrento, 251, 252.

Spearman, Frank Hamilton, in Rome, 167;
work of, 168.

Spinazzola, Professor, quoted, 242, 243.

St. Ambrosio, church of, 448.

St. Andrew, 256.

St. Benedict, work of, 270, 271;
tomb of, 272;
chapel of, 350.

St. Damian, chapel of, 356.

St. Gaudens, Augustus, in Rome, 10.

St. Gregory, feast of, 180.

St. Maria della Portiuncula, 351.

St. Mark's, Venice, 396, 397, 404.

St. Mark, tomb of, 397;
legend regarding, 397.

St. Paola d'Orvieto, 314.

Stebbins, Emma, in Rome, 58.

Stetson, Charles Walker, in Rome, 10, 91;
work of, 113.

Stetson, Mrs. Charles Walker, in Rome, 11;
quoted, 426.

Stillman, Mr., quoted, 39.

Story, Julian, in Rome, 91;
studio of, 97.

Story, Waldo, in Rome, 91;
studio of, 97;
works of, 98.

Story, William Wetmore, in Rome, 10;
first visit to Italy of, 62;
in Florence, 65;
quoted, 70, 80, 89, 90, 286;
in Palazzo Barberini, Rome, 71;
works of, 81-86;
estimate of, 82-90;
literary work of, 90;
grave of, 217.

Stowe, Harriet Beecher, in Rome, 11.

Strada Nuova di Posilipo, 239.

Symonds, John Addington, grave of, 220;
estimate of, 220;
quoted, 261, 264, 315, 316.

Tasso, 252, 253, 335.

Tennyson's choice of pictures in Venice, 395.

Thackeray, in Rome, 69.

Theocritus, quoted, 85.

Theosophical Society of Rome, 173.

Thomas, Edith, quoted, 82.

Thompson, Launt, in Rome, 10.

Thorwaldsen, in Rome, 7, 10;
quoted, 35;
realism of, 119.

Tiberius, summer palace of, 262;
baths of, 263.

Tilton, J. Rollin, in Rome, 10;
grave of, 219.

Titian, tomb of, 405.

Torlonia, Duca and Duchessa of, 334.

Trelawney, grave of, 216.

Trinità di Monti, church of, 133.

Tusculum, 207.

Umberto, King, 142.

Umbrians, 345.

Urbino, 285.

Vanderlyn, in Rome, 10.

Vaughn, Monsignor, 181.

Vatican, galleries of, 112.

Vatican palace, 196, 198.

Vedder, Anita, in Rome, 171.

Vedder, Elihu, in Rome, 10;
art of, 91-95;
appreciation of, 96;
works of, 96, 97;
country house of, 262.

Vedder, Mrs. Elihu, in Rome, 170.

Venice, first glimpses of, 389;
Grand Canal of, 390;
in June, 391;
color and loveliness of, 392;
art of, 395, 396;
origin of, 398;
first Doge of, 399;
Renaissance architecture in, 399;
Doge's Palace, 400-404;
art in, 404;
fall of Campanile in, 406;
Browning Palace in, 408-413;
centenary of Carlo Goldoni celebrated in, 413, 414;
art exhibition in, 415;
June evening in, 416;
as a poet's dream, 418.

Vernet, Horace, in Rome, 10.

Verona, 311.

Veronese, Paolo, 404.

Vesuvius, 229.

Via Bonella, 45.

Victor Emmanuel III, 118, 215, 432, 444.

Villa Aldobrandini, 208.

Villa Barberini, 209.

Villa Borghese, 14, 187.

Villa Doria, 211.

Villa Falconieri, 213.

Villa Jovis, 263.

Villa Medici, 4, 134.

Villa Nazionale, 238.

Villa Pamphilia Doria, 149.

Villa Torlonia, 206.

Virgil, quoted, 241;
grotto of, 242.

Visconti, 329, 330.

Vittorio Emanuele, 214.

Waldstein, Dr. Charles, quoted, 245.

Ward, Mrs. Humphry, quoted, 210, 212.

Watson, William, quoted, 9, 25, 86, 87.

Wellman, Walter, 9.

West, Benjamin, in Rome, 10.

White, Mr. and Mrs. Henry, in Rome, 165.

"Whites," 145.

Whitman, Walt, quoted, 422.

Whitney, Anne, in Rome, 10, 58.

Whittier, quoted, 339.

Wilberforce, Rev. Basil, quoted, 125, 341.

Woolson, Constance Fenimore, tomb of, 219.

Zuccaro, Federigo, 44.

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TRANSCRIBER'S NOTE

The original language, spelling, language and punctuation have been
preserved.
The following corrections were made to the original text:

Page xii: Vittoria Colonna, Galleria Buonarotti, Florence
Vittoria Colonna, Galleria Buonarroti, Florence

Page 6: artistic centre of the ninteenth century and
artistic centre of the nineteenth century and

Page 19: on the wall of the _casa_ in the Via delle Quattre Fontane
on the wall of the _casa_ in the Via delle Quattro Fontane

page 26: the Palazzo Sentoriale and the Palazzo dei Conservatore.
the Palazzo Senatoriale and the Palazzo dei Conservatori.

page 27: the Stanza della Incendio and the Sala di Constantino.
the Stanza dell'Incendio and the Sala di Constantino.

page 32: winds on the Pont San Angelo, and in the vast
winds on the Ponte San Angelo, and in the vast

page 32: the Music Nazionale--is the group of "Pluto
the Museo Nazionale--is the group of "Pluto

page 55: during hs stay in Rome are 'St. Elizabeth of
during his stay in Rome are 'St. Elizabeth of

page 72: The Via delle Quatre Fontane, on which the
The Via delle Quattro Fontane, on which the

page 138: given under the auspices of the Societa Archeologica,
given under the auspices of the Società Archeologica,

page 148: _gentilinomo_, who is gorgeously arrayed in knee
_gentiluomo_, who is gorgeously arrayed in knee

page 161: Jacomletti, and there is also a kneeling statue
Jacometti, and there is also a kneeling statue

page 163: and the Via dell Quattro Fontane. The
and the Via delle Quattro Fontane. The

page 163: for living purposes. The portere, the guards,
for living purposes. The portiere, the guards,

page 170: and in the Vedder villa, _Torre Quatro Venti_
and in the Vedder villa, _Torre Quattro Venti_

page 171: the American wife of Caviliere Cortesi, an
the American wife of Cavaliere Cortesi, an

page 178: Peruzzi, and Annibale Caracci. Raphael is
Peruzzi, and Annibale Carracci. Raphael is

page 185: that includes the "Ludovisi Mars;" Hercules,"
that includes the "Ludovisi Mars;" "Hercules,"

page 200: he may rest, _mens conscia recta_!
he may rest, _mens conscia recti_!

page 205: whose grand Roman palazzo is in the Boca di
whose grand Roman palazzo is in the Bocca di

page 213: The Villa Falconicri, in Frascati, which was
The Villa Falconieri, in Frascati, which was

page 234: Benvenuto Cellini at the Castel Sant Angelo;
Benvenuto Cellini at the Castel Sant'Angelo;

page 237: of the street scenes of Naples; Camprani and
of the street scenes of Naples; Campriani and

page 244: Forum, succeding Lanciani--believe that some
Forum, succeeding Lanciani--believe that some

page 244: equestrian statue of Bulbi, in the Naples Museum,
equestrian statue of Balbo, in the Naples Museum,

page 260: The cathedral at Revello has traces of the
The cathedral at Ravello has traces of the

page 260: of the Palazzo Rufelo might enchant Hafiz himself.
of the Palazzo Rufolo might enchant Hafiz himself.

page 272: Mignano (Ginodone Trieramosca) and also to
Mignano (Guidone Fieramosca) and also to

page 272: are a series of fresco paintings by Luca Gindano,
are a series of fresco paintings by Luca Giordano,

page 272: by Mazzarappi and Marco da Siena. Nothing
by Mazzaroppi and Marco da Siena. Nothing

page 274: Terre di Lavorno region:--
Terra di Lavoro region:--

page 276: to be a "Monumento Nazionali," and it is now
to be a "Monumento Nazionale," and it is now

page 286: in the "Inferno." The Colonna and the Orsino
in the "Inferno." The Colonna and the Orsini

page 286: look down from Castel Gondolfo on the gloomy,
look down from Castel Gandolfo on the gloomy,

page 287: Marino, Castel Gondolfo, and Frascati, with
Marino, Castel Gandolfo, and Frascati, with

page 295: for the country they left Naples for Pietzalba
for the country they left Naples for Pietralba

page 295: Musefico, il Givoio, and il Minturo. It was an
Musefico, il Giovio, and il Minturno. It was an

page 297: Per te narrar tre quante dubbie voglie,
Per te narrar tra quante dubbie voglie,

page 297: Fra quanti aspri martir, degliosa io vivo!_"
Fra quanti aspri martir, dogliosa io vivo!_"

page 304: San Mano that had formerly been its property.
San Magno that had formerly been its property.

page 305: world's sun; and not to add light to _mio vel solo_,
world's sun; and not to add light to _mio bel sole_,

page 332: "_Bene scripsisti de me, Thoma; quam ergo mercedem recipris?_"
"_Bene scripsisti de me, Thoma; quam ergo mercedem recipies?_"

page 380: Bonaventuri built over it, is preserved in this
Bonaventura built over it, is preserved in this

page 385: the Palazzo Rospigliosa in Rome.
the Palazzo Rospigliosi in Rome.

page 399: Anopeste, elected by the tribunal of commonalty,
Anafesto, elected by the tribunal of commonalty,

page 400: mural work by Battesta Franco and De Moro.
mural work by Battista Franco and De Moro.

page 400: One enters the Porta delta Carta, which
One enters the Porta della Carta, which

page 405: Peter, Maucis, and Antoninus are commending
Peter, Francis, and Antoninus are commending

page 426: Saricinesco, in the region of Tivoli, was made
Saracinesco, in the region of Tivoli, was made

page 436: too, in other leading men. Zurati, the
too, in other leading men. Turati, the

page 452: in Europe. That of the Annunziati, the
in Europe. That of the Annunziata, the

page 461: Annunziati Cathedral, Genoa, 452.
Annunziata Cathedral, Genoa, 452.

page 462: Camprani, 237.
Campriani, 237.

page 463: del Vall, Cardinal Merry, 146-149, 435.
del Val, Cardinal Merry, 146-149, 435.

page 466: Ossi, Professor Dall, opinion of, 244.
Osso, Professor Dall', opinion of, 244.

page 467: Quatre Fontane, Via delle, 72.
Quattro Fontane, Via delle, 72.

page 467: Revello, Cathedral at, 260.
Ravello, Cathedral at, 260.

page 470: Villa Falconicri, 213.
Villa Falconieri, 213.

On page 235: "Da Scala d'Oro" should be "La Scala d'Oro" or "Madonna della Scala d'Oro".

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