Chapter L: Letter II

Chalet under the Beech-trees.--A mountain Bridge.--Solemnity of the
Night.--The Comedie.--Relaxation of Genevese Morality.

It began to rain just as we entered the chalet under the beech-trees, and one of the dirtiest I ever crept into--it would have been uncharitable not to have regretted the absence of swine, for here was mud and filth enough to have insured their felicity. A woman, whose teeth of a shining whiteness were the only clean objects I could discover, brought us foaming bowls of cream and milk, with which we regaled ourselves, and then got into our vehicle. We but too soon left the smooth herbage behind, and passed about an hour in rambling down the mountain pelted by the showers, from which we took shelter under the limes at Moneti.

Here we should have drunk our tea in peace and quietness, had it not been for the incursion of a gang of bandylegged watchmakers, smoking their pipes, and scraping their fiddles, and snapping their fingers, with all that insolent vulgarity so characteristic of the Rue-basse portion of the Genevese community. We got out of their way, you may easily imagine, as fast as we were able, and descending a rough road, most abominably strewn with rolling pebbles, arrived at the bridge d’Etrombieres just as it fell dark. The mouldering planks with which the bridge is awkwardly put together, sounded suspiciously hollow under the feet of our horses, and had it not been for the friendly light of a pine torch which a peasant brought forth, we might have been tumbled into the Arve.

It was a mild summer night, the rainy clouds were dissolving away with a murmur of distant thunder so faint as to be scarcely heard. From time to time a flash of summer lightning discovered the lonely tower of Moneti on the edge of the lesser Saleve. The ghostly tales, which the old curè of the mountains had told me at a period when I hungered and thirsted after supernatural narrations, recurred to my memory, in all their variety of horrors, and kept it fully employed till I found myself under the walls of Geneva. The gates were shut, but I knew they were to be opened again at ten o’clock for the convenience of those returning from the _Comedie_.

The _Comedie_ is become of wonderful importance; but a few years ago the very name of a play was held in such abhorrence by the spiritual consistory of Geneva and its obsequious servants, which then included the best part of the republic, that the partakers and abettors of such diversions were esteemed on the high road to eternal perdition. Though, God knows, I am unconscious of any extreme partiality for Calvin, I cannot help thinking his severe discipline wisely adapted to the moral constitution of this starch bit of a republic which he took to his grim embraces. But these days of rigidity and plainness are completely gone by; the soft spirit of toleration, so eloquently insinuated by Voltaire, has removed all thorny fences, familiarized his numerous admirers with every innovation, and laughed scruples of every nature to scorn. Voltaire, indeed, may justly be styled the architect of that gay well-ornamented bridge, by which freethinking and immorality have been smuggled into the republic under the mask of philosophy and liberality and sentiment. These monsters, like the Sin and Death of Milton, have made speedy and irreparable havoc. To facilitate their operations, rose the genius of “Rentes Viagères” at his bidding, tawdry villas with their little pert groves of poplar and horse-chesnut start up--his power enables Madame C. D. the bookseller’s lady to amuse the D. of G. with assemblies, sets Parisian cabriolets and English phaetons rolling from one faro table to another, and launches innumerable pleasure parties with banners and popguns on the lake, drumming and trumpeting away their time from morn till evening. I recollect, not many years past, how seldom the echoes of the mountains were profaned by such noises, and how rarely the drones of Geneva, if any there were in that once industrious city, had opportunities of displaying their idleness; but now Dissipation reigns triumphant, and to pay the tribute she exacts, every fool runs headlong to throw his scrapings into the voracious whirlpool of annuities; little caring, provided he feeds high and lolls in his carriage, what becomes of his posterity. I had ample time to make these reflections, as the _Comedie_ lasted longer than usual.

Luckily the night improved, the storms had rolled away, and the moon rising from behind the crags of the lesser Saleve cast a pleasant gleam on the smooth turf of plain-palais, where we walked to and fro above half an hour. We had this extensive level almost entirely to ourselves, no light glimmered in any window, no sound broke the general stillness, except a low murmur proceeding from a group of chesnut trees. There, snug under a garden wall on a sequestered bench, sat two or three Genevois of the old stamp, chewing the cud of sober sermons--men who receive not more than seven or eight per cent. for their money; there sat they waiting for their young ones, who had been seduced to the theatre.

A loud hubbub and glare of flambeaus proclaiming the end of the play, we left these good folks to their rumination, and regaining our carriage rattled furiously through the streets of Geneva, once so quiet, so silent at these hours, to the no small terror and annoyance of those whom Rentes Viagères had not yet provided with a speedier conveyance than their own legs, or a brighter satellite than an old cook-maid with a candle and lantern.

It was eleven o’clock before we reached home, and near two before I retired to rest, having sat down immediately to write this letter whilst the impressions of the day were fresh in my memory.

END OF THE FIRST VOLUME.

LONDON:

PRINTED BY SAMUEL BENTLEY,

Dorset Street, Fleet Street.

ITALY;

WITH SKETCHES OF

SPAIN AND PORTUGAL.

BY THE AUTHOR OF “VATHEK.”

THIRD EDITION.

IN TWO VOLUMES.

VOL. II.

LONDON:

RICHARD BENTLEY, NEW BURLINGTON STREET,

Publisher in Ordinary to His Majesty.

1835.

CONTENTS

OF

THE SECOND VOLUME.

PORTUGAL.

LETTER I.

Detained at Falmouth.--Navigation at a stop.--An evening ramble. Page 5

LETTER II.

Mines in the parish of Gwynnap.--Piety and gin.--Rapid progress of Methodism.--Freaks of fortune.--Pernicious extravagance.--Minerals.--Mr. Beauchamp’s mansion.--Beautiful lake.--The wind still contrary. 8

LETTER III.

A lovely morning.--Antiquated mansion.--Its lady.--Ancestral effigies.--Collection of animals.--Serene evening.--Owls.--Expected dreams. 12

LETTER IV.

A blustering night.--Tedium of the language of the compass.--Another excursion to Trefusis. 16

LETTER V.

Regrets produced by contrasts. 19

LETTER VI.

Still no prospect of embarkation.--Pen-dennis Castle.--Luxuriant vegetation.--A serene day.--Anticipations of the voyage. 21

LETTER VII.

Portugal.--Excursion to Pagliavam.--The villa.--Dismal labyrinths in the Dutch style.--Roses.--Anglo-Portuguese Master of the Horse.--Interior of the Palace.--Furniture in petticoats.--Force of education.--Royalty without power.--Return from the Palace. 23

LETTER VIII.

Glare of the climate in Portugal.--Apish luxury.--Botanic Gardens.--Açafatas.--Description of the Gardens and Terraces. 29

LETTER IX.

Consecration of the Bishop of Algarve.--Pathetic Music.--Valley of Alcantara.--Enormous Aqueduct.--Visit to the Marialva Palace.--Its much revered Masters.--Collection of rarities.--The Viceroy of Algarve.--Polyglottery.--A night-scene.--Modinhas.--Extraordinary Procession.--Blessings of Patriarchal Government. 34

LETTER X.

Festival of the Corpo de Deos.--Striking decoration of the streets.--The Patriarchal Cathedral.--Coming forth of the Sacrament in awful state.--Gorgeous procession.--Bewildering confusion of sounds. 47

LETTER XI.

Dinner at the country-house of Mr. S----.--His Brazilian wife.--Magnificent Repast.--A tragic damsel. 51

LETTER XII.

Pass the day at Belem.--Visit the neighbouring Monastery.--Habitation of King Emanuel.--A gold Custodium of exquisite workmanship.--The Church.--Bonfires on the edge of the Tagus.--Fire-works.--Images of the Holy One of Lisbon. 55

LETTER XIII.

The New Church of St. Anthony.--Sprightly Music.--Enthusiastic Sermon.--The good Prior of Avia.--Visit to the Carthusian Convent of Cachiez.--Spectres of the Order.--Striking effigy of the Saviour.--A young and melancholy Carthusian.--The Cemetery. 59

LETTER XIV.

Curious succession of visiters.--A Seraphic Doctor.--Monsenhor Aguilar.--Mob of old hags, children, and ragamuffins.--Visit to the Theatre in the Rua d’os Condes.--The Archbishop Confessor.--Brazilian Modinhas.--Bewitching nature of that music.--Nocturnal processions.--Enthusiasm of the young Conde de Villanova.--No accounting for fancies. 68

LETTER XV.

Excessive sultriness of Lisbon.--Night-sounds of the city.--Public gala in the garden of the Conde de Villa Nova.--Visit to the Anjeja Palace.--The heir of the family.--Marvellous narrations of a young priest.--Convent of Savoyard nuns.--Father Theodore’s chickens.--Sequestered group of beauties.--Singing of the Scarlati. 77

LETTER XVI.

Ups-and-downs of Lisbon.--Negro Beldames.--Quinta of Marvilla.--Moonlight view of Lisbon.--Illuminated windows of the Palace.--The old Marquis of Penalva.--Padre Duarte, a famous Jesuit.--Conversation between him and a conceited Physician.--Their ludicrous blunders.--Toad-eaters.--Sonatas.--Portuguese minuets. 88

LETTER XVII.

Dog-howlings.--Visit to the Convent of San Josè di Ribamar.--Breakfast at the Marquis of Penalvas.--Magnificent and hospitable reception.--Whispering in the shade of mysterious chambers.--The Bishop of Algarve.--Evening scene in the garden of Marvilla. 96

LETTER XVIII.

Excursion to Cintra.--Villa of Ramalhaô.--The Garden.--Collares.--Pavilion designed by Pillement.--A convulsive gallop.--Cold weather in July. 104

LETTER XIX.

Sympathy between Toads and Old Women.--Palace of Cintra.--Reservoir of Gold and Silver Fish.--Parterre on the summit of a lofty terrace.--Place of confinement of Alphonso the Sixth.--The Chapel.--Barbaric profusion of Gold.--Altar at which Don Sebastian knelt when he received a supernatural warning.--Rooms in preparation for the Queen and the Infantas.--Return to Ramalhaô. 110

LETTER XX.

Grand gala at Court.--Festival in honour of the birthday of Guildermeester.--Mad freaks of a Frenchman.--Unwelcome lights of Truth.--Invective against the English. 117

LETTER XXI.

The Queen of Portugal’s Chapel.--The Orchestra.--Rehearsal of a Council.--Proposal to visit Mafra. 123

LETTER XXII.

Road to Mafra.--Distant view of the Convent.--Its vast fronts.--General magnificence of the Edifice.--The Church.--The High Altar.--Eve of the Festival of St. Augustine.--The collateral Chapels.--The Sacristy.--The Abbot of the Convent.--The Library.--View from the Convent-roof.--Chime of Bells.--House of the Capitan Mor.--Dinner.--Vespers.--Awful sound of the Organs.--The Palace.--Return to the Convent.--Inquisitive crowd.--The Garden.--Matins.--A Procession.--The Hall de Profundis.--Solemn Repast.--Supper at the Capitan Mor’s. 127

LETTER XXIII.

High mass.--Garden of the Viscount Ponte de Lima.--Leave Mafra.--An accident.--Return to Cintra.--My saloon.--Beautiful view from it. 143

LETTER XXIV.

A saloon in the highest style of oriental decoration.--Amusing stories of King John the Fifth and his recluses.--Cheerful funeral.--Refreshing ramble to the heights of Penha Verde. 147

LETTER XXV.

Anecdotes of the Conde de San Lorenzo.--Visit to Mrs. Guildermeester.--Toads active, and toads passive.--The old Consul and his tray of jewels. 157

LETTER XXVI.

Expected arrival at Cintra of the Queen and suite.--Duke d’Alafoens.--Excursion to a rustic Fair.--Revels of the Peasantry.--Night-scene at the Marialva Villa. 163

LETTER XXVII.

Curious scene in the interior of the palace of Cintra.--Singular invitation.--Dinner with the Archbishop Confessor.--Hilarity and shrewd remarks of that extraordinary personage. 169

LETTER XXVIII.

Explore the Cintra Mountains.--Convent of Nossa Senhora da Penha.--Moorish Ruins.--The Cork Convent.--The Rock of Lisbon.--Marine Scenery.--Susceptible imagination of the Ancients exemplified. 179

LETTER XXIX.

Excursion to Penha Verde.--Resemblance of that Villa to the edifices in Caspar Poussin’s landscapes.--The ancient pine-trees, said to have been planted by Don John de Castro.--The old forests displaced by gaudy terraces.--Influx of visitors.--A celebrated Prior’s erudition and strange anachronisms.--The Beast in the Apocalypse.--Œcolampadius.--Bevy of Palace damsels.--Fête at the Marialva Villa.--The Queen and the Royal Family.--A favourite dwarf Negress.--Dignified manner of the Queen.--Profound respect inspired by her presence.--Rigorous etiquette.--Grand display of Fireworks.--The young Countess of Lumieres.--Affecting resemblance. 189

LETTER XXX.

Cathedral of Lisbon.--Trace of St. Anthony’s fingers.--The Holy Crows.--Party formed to visit them.--A Portuguese poet.--Comfortable establishment of the Holy Crows.--Singular tradition connected with them.--Illuminations in honour of the Infanta’s accouchement.--Public harangues.--Policarpio’s singing, and anecdotes of the _haute noblesse_. 201

LETTER XXXI.

Rambles in the Valley of Collates.--Elysian scenery.--Song of a young female peasant.--Rustic hospitality.--Interview with the Prince of Brazil in the plains of Cascais.--Conversation with His Royal Highness.--Return to Ramalhaô. 212

LETTER XXXII.

Convent of Boa Morte.--Emaciated priests.--Austerity of the Order.--Contrite personages.--A _nouveau riche_.--His house.--Walk on the veranda of the palace at Belem.--Train of attendants at dinner.--Portuguese gluttony.--Black dose of legendary superstition.--Terrible denunciations.--A dreary evening. 229

LETTER XXXIII.

Rehearsal of Seguidillas.--Evening scene.--Crowds of beggars.--Royal charity misplaced.--Mendicant flattery.--Frightful countenances.--Performance at the Salitri theatre.--Countess of Pombeiro and her dwarf negresses.--A strange ballet.--Return to the Palace.--Supper at the Camareira Mor’s.--Filial affection.--Last interview with the Archbishop.--Fatal tide of events.--Heart-felt regret on leaving Portugal. 235

LETTER XXXIV.

Dead mass at the church of Martyrs.--Awful music by Perez and Jomelli.--Marialva’s affecting address.--My sorrow and anxiety. 253

SPAIN.

LETTER I.

Embark on the Tagus.--Aldea Gallega.--A poetical postmaster.--The church.--Leave Aldea Gallega.--Scenery on the road.--Palace built by John the Fifth.--Ruins at Montemor.--Reach Arroyolos. 259

LETTER II.

A wild tract of forest-land.--Arrival at Estremoz.--A fair.--An outrageous sermon.--Boundless wastes of gum-cistus.--Elvas.--Our reception there.--My visiters. 268

LETTER III.

Pass the rivulet which separates Spain and Portugal.--A muleteer’s enthusiasm.--Badajoz.--The cathedral.--Journey resumed.--A vast plain.--Village of Lubaon.--Withered hags.--Names and characters of our mules.--Posada at Merida. 275

LETTER IV.

Arrival at Miaxada.--Monotonous singing.--Dismal country.--Truxillo.--A rainy morning.--Resume our journey.--Immense wood of cork-trees.--Almaraz.--Reception by the escrivano.--A terrific volume.--Village of Laval de Moral.--Range of lofty mountains.--Calzada. 282

LETTER V.

Sierra de los Gregos.--Mass.--Oropeza.--Talavera.--Drawling tirannas.--Talavera de la Reyna.--Reception at Santa Olaya.--The lady of the house and her dogs and dancers. 289

LETTER VI.

Dismal plains.--Santa Cruz.--Val de Carneiro.--A most determined musical amateur.--The Alcayde Mayor.--Approach to Madrid.--Aspect of the city.--The Calle d’Alcala.--The Prado.--The Ave-Maria bell. 296

LETTER VII.

The Duchess of Berwick in all her nonchalance.--Her apartment described.--Her passion for music.--Her señoros de honor. 301

LETTER VIII.

The Chevalier de Roxas.--Excursion to the palace and gardens of the Buen Retiro.--The Turkish Ambassador and his numerous train.--Farinelli’s apartments. 305

LETTER IX.

The Museum and Academy of Arts.--Scene on the Prado.--The Portuguese Ambassador and his comforters.--The Theatre.--A highly popular dancer.--Seguidillas in all their glory. 310

LETTER X.

Visit to the Escurial.--Imposing site of that regal convent.--Reception by the Mystagogue of the place.--Magnificence of the choir.--Charles the Fifth’s organ.--Crucifix by Cellini.--Gorgeous ceiling painted by Lucca Giordano.--Extent and intricacy of the stupendous edifice. 314

LETTER XI.

Mysterious cabinets.--Relics of Martyrs.--A feather from the Archangel Gabriel’s wing.--Labyrinth of gloomy cloisters.--Sepulchral cave.--River of death.--The regal sarcophagi. 323

LETTER XII.

A concert and ball at Senhor Pacheco’s.--Curious assemblage in his long pompous gallery.--Deplorable ditty by an eastern dilettante.--A bolero in the most rapturous style.--Boccharini in despair.--Solecisms in dancing. 329

LETTER XIII.

Palace of Madrid.--Masterly productions of the great Italian, Spanish, and Flemish painters.--The King’s sleeping apartment.--Musical clocks.--Feathered favourites.--Picture of the Madonna del Spasimo.--Interview with Don Gabriel and the Infanta.--Her Royal Highness’s affecting recollections of home.--Head-quarters of Masserano.--Exhibition of national manners there. 339

LETTER XIV.

A German Visionary.--Remarkable conversation with him.--History of a Ghost-seer. 349

LETTER XV.

Madame Bendicho.--Unsuccessful search on the Prado.--Kauffman, an infidel in the German style.--Mass in the chapel of the Virgin.--The Duchess of Alba’s villa.--Destruction by a young French artist of the paintings of Rubens.--French ambassador’s ball.--Heir-apparent of the house of Medina Celi. 354

LETTER XVI.

Visit from the Turkish Ambassador.--Stroll to the gardens of the Buen Retiro.--Troop of ostriches.--Madame d’Aranda.--State of Cortejo-ism.--Powers of drapery.--Madame d’Aranda’s toilet.--Assembly at the house of Madame Badaan.--Cortejos off duty.--Blaze of beauty.--A curious group.--A dance. 358

LETTER XVII.

Valley of Aranjuez.--The island garden.--The palace.--Strange medley of pictures.--Oratories of the King and the Queen.--Destruction of a grand apartment painted in fresco by Mengs.--Boundless freedom of conduct in the present reign.--Decoration of the Duchess of Ossuna’s house.--Apathy pervading the whole Iberian peninsula. 365

LETTER XVIII.

Explore the extremities of the Calle de la Reyna.--Destructive rage for improvement.--Loveliness of the valley of Aranjuez.--Undisturbed happiness of the animals there.--Degeneration of the race of grandees.--A royal cook. 376

PORTUGAL.