Chapter I (7)

The advancing party were armed, decorated, and painted, for battle, but they manifested, as they rushed up to us, the most pacific deportment, shaking us by the hand, putting their arms about our necks, and raising their hands with the palm towards us, in token of peace. We were not, however, disposed to rely upon these assurances of friendship, being fully aware of the difficulties which their partizans would have to surmount in checking the inconsiderate prowess of the younger warriors. We now observed some of them seizing our horses, which were staked at some distance: they mounted them and rode swiftly in the direction that the chief had taken, but they soon returned. It soon became necessary to protect our baggage by arranging ourselves around it; still, however, in despite of our vigilance, many of our small articles were stolen. They begged for whiskey and tobacco; and a small portion of the latter was given them. Amidst the confusion arising from the incessant and rapid movements of the Indians, we observed an individual bearing off a small {125} package of very fine pounded meat; I immediately pointed out the circumstance to the partizan, and directed him to recover it and punish the thief; he complied by wresting the meat from the grasp of the latter, and from that of several others who had been contending for portions of it, placed it beneath his feet, and defended it with his lance; but Chabonneau, to whom the meat belonged, declaring that he had given it to them, they were permitted to retain it. A tent which had been pitched for me in consideration of my illness, and in which my blanket, pistols, together with some small articles, had been deposited, was plundered of its contents; it was finally cut down, and would have been taken away, had we not made an effort to preserve it. During the whole transaction those warriors, who stood at a short distance, intently watched our movements, as if they were led to believe, from the attitude we assumed, that we would attempt to repel them, even with our inadequate force. No sudden action or motion of any one of the party escaped them; and individuals were frequently observed to draw their arrows to test the elasticity of the bows. At a critical juncture, a tall and graceful Indian cocked his gun fiercely, and put his war whistle to his mouth, but the signal was not blown. Amongst numerous incidents that occurred during the half hour that we were surrounded by them, an individual attempted to seize a knapsack belonging to one of the soldiers, and immediately under his observation; the latter placed his foot upon the knapsack to detain it, and at the same time prepared his gun as if to shoot the offender, who leaped backward with great agility, and with an ejaculation of pleasure, drew his arrow to the head. The whole party precipitately retreated just as Mr. Dougherty returned from hunting; being briefly informed of the nature of their visit, he called aloud to the fugitives in their own language, but they passed on without heeding him, taking our {126} horses with them. I had by a rough estimate fixed their number at one hundred and forty; they were chiefly armed with the bow and arrow, and lance, with the usual accompaniments of tomahawks, war-clubs, and knives, together with a few guns. Fortunately no personal indignity was offered us; yet we could not repress a sensation of much mortification at the prospect of a frustration of our enterprise, which now seemed inevitable, and of extreme vexation at the irreparable loss of our horses, which no exertions of ours could have saved: an appeal to arms, except in the last extremity, would have been the height of imprudence, conquest being hopeless, and escape almost impossible.

Soon after their departure Mr. Jessup and Chabonneau set out for the village to procure assistance, for the purpose of removing our camp to that place from which we recommenced our journey at a moment so unpropitious; whilst we busied ourselves in removing the baggage to a situation amongst the neighbouring bushes, which appeared favourable for concealment, and for defence, in case of a night attack, which was confidently anticipated. Several alarms occurred during the night, and on the return of day we observed thirty mounted Indians riding swiftly towards us. The chief, who left us so precipitately the preceding evening, on his arrival at the village, hastily assembled a little band of warriors for the purpose of returning immediately to our assistance, and it was he and his party, that we had now the pleasure to greet. They expressed great satisfaction, when they learned that we were all uninjured. After saluting us cordially, they pursued the trail of the Pawnees for some distance, and from the footsteps in the grass, and other appearances, to be duly appreciated only by the eye of an Indian, they estimated the number of the Pawnees at one hundred and thirty. On their return they restored to us some bacon and other articles, which had been {127} carried off by the fugitives, and rejected as not at all to their taste. We were now supplied with a conveyance for ourselves and our baggage, and were conducted back to the village.

The Indians who committed this robbery, were a war-party of the republican Pawnees, and were about one hundred and forty in number. Their nation was at war with the Konzas.

Mr. Say's party were kindly received at the village they had left on the preceding day. In the evening they had retired to rest in the lodge set apart for their accommodation, when they were alarmed by a party of savages rushing in, armed with bows, arrows, and lances, shouting and yelling in a most frightful manner. The gentlemen of the party had immediate recourse to their arms; but observing that some squaws, who were in the lodge, appeared unmoved, they began to suspect that no molestation to them was intended. The Indians collected around the fire in the centre of the lodge, yelling incessantly; at length their howlings assumed something of a measured tone, and they began to accompany their voices with a sort of drum and rattles. After singing for some time, one who appeared to be their leader, struck the post over the fire with his lance, and they all began to dance, keeping very exact time with the music. Each warrior had, besides his arms, and rattles made of strings of deer's hoofs, some part of the intestines of an animal inflated, and enclosing a few small stones, which produced a sound like pebbles in a gourd shell. After dancing round the fire for some time, without appearing to notice the strangers, they departed, raising the same wolfish howl, with which they had entered; but their music and their yelling continued to be heard about the village during the night.

This ceremony, called the _dog dance_, was performed by the Konzas for the entertainment of their guests. Mr. Seymour took an opportunity to sketch {128} the attitudes and dresses of the principal figures.[158]

Finding it impracticable to obtain horses by purchase, out of their almost exhausted stock of merchandize, to enable them to prosecute their march to Council Bluff, after due deliberation, they saw no alternative, but to endeavour to hire horses on credit, and to make the best of their way for Cow Island, in hopes of meeting the steamboat there. A Frenchman, Mr. Gunville, resident with this nation, agreed to furnish two pack horses, and a saddle horse for Mr. Say, whose state of health would not admit of his continuing the journey on foot. Thus furnished they prepared to depart, and in the meantime two runners were despatched to inform Major Long of their situation by letter.

On the 25th of August, Mr. Say and his party again left the Konza village, accompanied by the French trader, who had furnished them two horses, and by a Missouri Indian; but this last had followed them only a few miles, when he repented of his undertaking and returned.

In pursuing the most direct route from the Konza village to the Missouri, they crossed at the distance of seventeen miles, the Vermilion, a small stream bordered with handsome forests. Nineteen miles beyond this they arrived at the sources of Grasshopper Creek, where they encamped on the evening of the 27th.[159] Here the soil changes somewhat abruptly. The high prairies about the Vermilion and Blue Earth creeks are barren, almost naked, and inhabited by some orbicular lizards. About Grasshopper Creek the soil is fertile, the grass dense and luxuriant.

On the 29th they arrived at Isle au Vache, and were hospitably received by Colonel Morgan and the officers of his command, but had the mortification to learn that Major Long, after waiting a sufficient time to enable the Indian agent to complete his negotiations {129} with the Konzas, had departed with the steam-boat before the arrival of the messengers, that had been sent to notify him of their disaster. These runners had been despatched immediately after their arrival, with instructions to overtake the steam-boat, and to deliver Mr. Say's letter, but after some days they returned, without having been able to effect any thing.

It was now determined that Mr. Say and Mr. Jessup, who on account of ill health, were unable to travel farther on foot, should for the present remain at Isle au Vache, while the other gentlemen of the detachment should continue their journey. Mr. Dougherty, from his intimate acquaintance with the country, was of opinion that by crossing in the nearest direction from Isle au Vache to the mouth of Wolf river, they might yet overtake the steam-boat. They accordingly placed themselves under his guidance, and, by great exertion, fortunately arrived at the mouth of Wolf river, on the evening of the 1st of September, as the steam-boat was passing.

The country south-west of the Missouri, between the Konzas and the Platte, is drained principally by Wolf river and the Great Nemahaw. These rivers, like the Nodowa and Nishnebottona, which enter the Missouri nearly opposite them from the north-east, rise in the prairies at an elevation probably of forty or fifty feet above the level of the Missouri. As they descend, their vallies becoming gradually wider, embosom a few trees, and at length, near their entrance into the Missouri valley, are forests of considerable extent. The surface of these prairies presents a constant succession of small rounded hills, becoming larger and more abrupt as you approach the beds of the rivers. The soil is deep, reposing usually on horizontal beds of argillaceous sandstone, and secondary limestone. In all the limestones along the Missouri, we observe a tendency to crystalline structure, and they have often a reddish or yellowish white {130} colour. There is, however, always something in the arrangement and in the aspect of the crystals to distinguish these sparry varieties from the primitive granular limestone, to which they have something of general resemblance. The horizontal disposition of the strata of this limestone, the great numbers of organic relics contained in it, and its intimate connexion with coal strata, indicate with sufficient clearness its relation to the secondary rocks. No person who shall examine this stratum with the least attention, either about the Nemahaw and the Konzas, or in the mining district at the sources of the Gasconade, the Merameg, and the St. Francis, will for a moment mistake it for any of those varieties of transition or primitive limestone, which it in some respects so closely resembles. The crystalline varieties, no less than the compact blue limestones, embrace numerous masses of chert or hornstone. This occurs of various colours, and these are arranged in spots or stripes. Some specimens have several distinct colours arranged in zigzag lines, somewhat resembling the fortification agate. The hunters use fragments of this stone for gun-flints; the savages also formerly employed it in the manufacture of arrow points and other implements.[160]

The soil superimposed upon these strata of limestone, is a calcareous loam. Near the rivers it is intermixed with sand; this is also the case with the soil of the high prairies about the Konzas village. In ascending the Konzas river, one hundred, or one hundred and twenty miles from the Missouri, you discover numerous indications, both in the soil, and its animal and vegetable productions, of an approach to the borders of that great Sandy Desert, which stretches eastward from the base of the Rocky Mountains. You meet there with the orbicular lizard, or "horned frog," an inhabitant of the arid plains of {131} New Mexico. You distinguish also some cacti, as well as many of those plants allied to chenopodium and salsola, which delight in a thirsty muriatiferous soil. The catalogue of the forest trees belonging to the vallies of this region is not very copious. The cotton-wood and the plane tree, every where form conspicuous features of the forests. With these are intermixed the tall and graceful acacia, the honey locust, and the bonduc, or coffee-tree,[161] and several species of juglans, carya and fraxinus, with pinnated or many-parted leaves. Trees of the family of the coniferæ are not of frequent occurrence on the Missouri. About the summits of rocky cliffs are here and there a few cedars or junipers, the only trees that retain their verdure during the winter.

The prairies, for many miles on each side of the Missouri, produce abundance of good pasturage; but as far as our observation has extended, the best soil is a margin from ten to twelve miles in breadth, along the western bank of the river. In the summer very little water is to be found in the prairies, all the smaller streams failing, even though the season be not unusually dry. On account of the want of wood and of water, the settlements will be for a long time confined to the immediate vallies of the Missouri, the Konzas, and the larger rivers; but it is probable, forests will hereafter be cultivated in those vast woodless regions, which now form so great a proportion of the country; and wells may be made to supply the deficiency of running water.

We have seen at Bellefontain, as well as at several other points on this river, a pretty species of sparrow, which is altogether new to us;[162] and several specimens of a serpent have occurred, which has considerable affinity with the pine-snake of the southern states, or bull-snake of Bartram.[163]

Having received on board the detachment that had arrived from the Konza village, except Messrs. {132} Say and Jessup, who, on account of ill health, remained at Isle au Vache, we left the mouth of Wolf river on the 2nd of September. A party of hunters, furnished with a horse for the transportation of game, were despatched at the same time with instructions to hunt on the south side of the river, and to join us again in the evening. We had little difficulty in procuring a constant supply of venison. Deer are very numerous on this part of the Missouri, and we had several opportunities to kill them from on board, as they were swimming across the river.

Twenty-one miles above the mouth of Wolf river, and on the same side, is the entrance of the Grand Nemahaw, a considerable river which rises in the plains between the Platte and the Republican Fork of the Konzas river, and running eastwardly about one hundred and fifty miles, discharges into the Missouri a little north of latitude forty degrees. In the straightness of its course, the rapidity and turbulence of its stream, it has a general resemblance to the other western tributaries of the Missouri. A few miles above the Nemahaw, and on the opposite side, is the mouth of the Tarkio, a smaller stream.[164]

On the 4th of September we were joined by the hunters, who brought two deer, and informed us they had killed several others. Lieutenant Field's boat was allowed to remain at the encampment of the preceding night, after the departure of the steam-boat, for the purpose of taking on board a large quantity of honey. Swarms of bees were found here in great numbers, and the honey they afforded made a valuable addition to our provisions, consisting now in a great measure of hunters' fare.

Finding one of the valves of the steam-engine much worn and leaky, we were now under the necessity of stopping for a day to have a new one, which we had brought, adapted to its place. Several of the men amused themselves by hunting and fishing. {133} We had now a plentiful supply of game, and many large catfish were taken, some of them weighing more than fifty pounds.

We passed in succession the mouths of the Nishnebottona and the Little Nemahaw,[165] and arrived on the 7th at the Grand Pass. Here the Nishnebottona, a beautiful river about sixty yards wide, approaches within one hundred and fifty yards of the Missouri, being separated from it by a sandy prairie, rising scarcely twenty feet above the surface of the water. After pursuing for a short distance a parallel course, the two rivers diverge, and the Nishnebottona meanders along the side of the Missouri valley, about sixty miles to its confluence with the latter river.[166] From this point is a pleasing view of the hills called the Baldpated Prairie, stretching along the north-eastern side of the Nishnebottona, and diminished to the size of anthills in the distant perspective.[167] Here the navigation is much obstructed by sand-bars, and the ordinary current of the Missouri, according to the statement of Lewis and Clarke, corroborated by our observation, is something more than one fathom per second.[168] In many places the Missouri hurries across concealed sand bars and other obstructions, with the velocity of seven, eight, or even twelve feet in a second.[169] Between these obstructions, the channel becomes deeper, and the current more moderate; consequently the aggregate velocity at times of low water may be reckoned something less than six feet to the second. As the volume of water is increased by the heavy rains, and the melting of the snows within the Rocky Mountains, the current is proportionably accelerated, and becomes more equable, running for many miles in succession, not less than seven hundred and twenty feet per minute. At the time of our ascent the summer floods had not entirely subsided, and in contending against the current, we found occasion {134} in a few instances to make use of the towing rope.

About thirteen miles above the Grand Pass is a point where Lewis and Clarke witnessed the falling of a portion, about three-fourths of a mile in length, of a high cliff of sandstone and clay. Appearances have considerably changed since the time of their journey. There is still an indentation along the bluff, showing the upper part of the portion which had slid down, but the whole is now covered with grass. The river has retired from the base of the cliff it was then undermining. A grassy plain, of some extent, occupies the spot where the bed of the river must have been; but this prairie is, in its turn, experiencing the vicissitude incident to every thing along the bank of the Missouri, and is evidently very soon to disappear entirely. A mile or two above this point are cliffs of sandstone and indurated clay, in a state of rapid disintegration. Here we observed extensive beds of aluminous earth, of a dark grey colour, alternating with red and yellowish white sandstone. Here are also numerous vegetable remains, which Mr. Say thought to consist of the limbs of trees included in the rock, carbonized and often intermixed with pyrites; smaller limbs in short fragments lay intermixed, and crossing each other in every direction.

Among other things, we observed here what appeared to be the cast of the seed vessel of the nelumbium, of uncommon magnitude. Fragments of mineral coal were observed scattered about the surface.

The mouth of the Platte,[170] where we arrived on the 15th of September is, according to our observations, in latitude 41° 3′ 13″ north. We shall hereafter have occasion to speak more particularly of this river. Its mouth now exhibited a great extent of naked sand-bars, the water, which was transparent and of a greenish colour, flowing almost unseen through a number of small channels. Masses of sand accumulate at the mouth of the Platte, rendering the {135} navigation of the Missouri at that point extremely difficult. The Platte, during its floods, pours into the Missouri a volume of water, considerably exceeding in magnitude that of the latter river, occasioning a reflux of the waters for many miles. From the Platte upward, the annual range from high to low water in the Missouri, may be rated at about eighteen feet.

Above the Platte, the scenery of the Missouri becomes much more interesting. The bluffs on each side are more elevated and abrupt, and being absolutely naked, rising into conic points, split by innumerable ravines, they have an imposing resemblance to groups of high granitic mountains, seen at a distance. The forests within the valley are of small extent, interspersed with wide meadows covered with carices and cyperaceæ, with some species of limnetis, polypogon, and arundo, sometimes sinking into marshes occupied by sagittarias, alismas, and others of the hydrocharidæ. The woodlands here, as on the whole of the Missouri below, are filled with great numbers of pea vines,[171] which afford an excellent pasturage for horses and cattle. The roots of the apios tuberosa were much sought after, and eaten by the soldiers, who accompanied us in our ascent. They are little tubers about half an inch in diameter, and when boiled are very agreeable to the taste. Two and a half miles above the mouth of the Platte, and on the same side, is that of the Papilion, a stream of considerable length, but discharging little water.[172] Here we found two boats belonging to the Indian traders at St. Louis. They had passed us some days before, and were to remain for the winter at the mouth of the Papilion, to trade with the Otoes, Missouries, and other Indians.

The banks of the Missouri, above the Platte, have long been frequented by the Indians, either as places {136} of permanent or occasional residence. Deserted encampments are often seen. On the north-east side, near the mouth of Mosquito river, are the remains of an old Ioway village. Four miles above, and on the opposite side, was formerly a village of the Otoes. On the 17th of September we arrived at the trading establishment of the Missouri Fur Company, known as Fort Lisa, and occupied by Mr. Manuel Lisa, one of the most active persons engaged in the Missouri fur trade. We were received by a salute from this establishment, and encamped a little above, on the same side of the river.[173]

FOOTNOTES:

[157] For sketch of the Missouri Indians, see Bradbury's
_Travels_, in our volume v, note 26.--ED.

[158] For a description of the dog dance of the Sioux, see
Smithsonian Institution _Report_, 1885, part ii, pp. 307,
308.--ED.

[159] Grasshopper Creek rises near the northern line of the
state, its mouth being in Jefferson County, opposite Lecompton.
The name was changed to Delaware River when the tribe of that
name was removed to its lower course.

The route of the party on its return may have been across
Pottawatomie and Jackson counties, and through southern
Atchison; or, more probably, northern Jefferson and Leavenworth
counties.--ED.

[160] Jessup's MS. Report.--JAMES.

[161] The guilandina dioica of Linn., Marshall, &c. but referred
by Michaux to the new genus gymnocladus, of which it is the only
well ascertained species. It is common throughout the western
states, and territories, and in Canada, where it is called by
the French Chicot, or stump tree, from the nakedness of its
appearance in winter. In the English gardens, where it has been
cultivated many years under the name of the hardy bonduc, it has
attained considerable magnitude, but has not hitherto been known
to produce flowers.--JAMES.

[162] _Fringilla grammaca_, SAY.--Above blackish-brown; _head_
lineated; beneath white, a black line from the inferior base
of the inferior mandible, above this a dilated white line;
from the angle of the mouth proceeds a black line, which is
much dilated and ferruginous behind the eye, and terminates
in a contracted black line; a black line from the eye to the
superior mandible, enclosed, as well as the eye, by a dilated
white line, which is more contracted behind the eye; top of
the head with two dilated lines, which are black on the front
and ferruginous on the crown and hind head, and separated from
each other by a cinereous line; interscapulars and lesser wing
coverts margined with dull cinereous or brownish; _wings_ dusky
brown, a white spot on the outer webs of the second, third, and
fourth primaries, near their bases; _back_ dirty olive-brown;
_tail_ rounded; _tail feathers_ twelve, blackish-brown, two
intermediate ones immaculate, adjoining ones with a small white
spot at tip, which, on the lateral ones, increases in size until
on the exterior one it occupies half of the total length of
the feather; the exterior web of the outer feather is white to
its base; _chin_ and _throat_ white; _neck_ and _breast_ dull
cinereous; _abdomen_ and _vent_ white; _feet_ pale, tinged with
orange; nail of the middle toe slightly dilated on the inner
side.

Length six and a quarter inches.

Shot at Belle Fontain on the Missouri. Many specimens were
obtained. The auriculars of the female are yellowish-brown.
They run upon the ground like a lark, seldom fly into a tree,
and sing sweetly. They were subsequently observed at Engineer
Cantonment.--JAMES.

[163] _Coluber obsoletus_, SAY.--_Body_ black above, beneath
whitish, with large subquadrate black spots, which are
confluent, and pale bluish towards the tail; _throat_ and _neck_
pure white; _sides_ between the scales with red marks.

Description. _Body_ black, _anterior half_ with a series of
continuous, dilated dull-red large circles, formed upon the
skin between the scales, on the side; on many of the scales,
are white marginal dashes near their bases: these scales are
placed in groups each side of the vertebræ of the anterior
moiety of the body; _scales_ bipunctured at tip; _beneath_
flat, so as to produce an angle or carnia each side; white
slightly tinged with yellowish red, irrorate with black
points, and spotted with large oblong quadrate marks, which
gradually become more continuous, confluent and plumbeous
towards the tail, occupying nearly the whole surface; _head_
beneath and _throat_ pure white; posterior _canthus_ of the
eye two-scaled; _iris_ blackish; _pupil_ deep-blued black,
enclosed by a silvery line.

One specimen, Pl. 228 -- Sc. 67 ?
Another specimen Pl. 233 -- Sc. 84
Another specimen Pl. 228 -- Sc. 84
Total length -- 4 feet 11-5/8 inches.
Tail length 4 feet 10-1/8 inches.

The lateral red marks are not perceptible, unless the skin be
dilated so as to separate the scales; and the small white
marginal lines on the bases of some of the scales are
observable only on close inspection. It varies in being nearly
or quite destitute of spots on the anterior portion of the
body beneath, but the posterior half of the inferior surface
still remains blackish. The whole animal bears strong
resemblance to C. _constrictor_; but the scales are decidedly
smaller, and the number of its plates and scales approach it
still more closely to that uncertain species C. _ovivorus_. It
is not an uncommon species on the Missouri from the vicinity
of Isle au Vache to Council Bluff.

_Penis_ terminated by a hemisphere, covered with compressed,
white spines, which are reflected at tip; the series interrupted
on the posterior side of the member by a canal; _it_ is much
dilated, dark reddish brown, abruptly contracted at base from
the exterior side, and with a prominent tubercle on the middle
of the inner side: length one inch and a quarter, width about
seven-sixteenths of an inch.--JAMES.

[164] The Grand Nemahaw, now usually called Big Nemaha, does not
rise so far to the west as is here implied. Its sources are in
Lancaster County, Nebraska, almost directly north of the mouth
of Republican River. The confluence of the Big Nemaha is just
above the Kansas-Nebraska line.

There are two streams (Big and Little) called Tarkio Creek.
They flow parallel through Atchison and Holt counties,
Missouri. The mouth of the Big Tarkio is opposite that of the
Big Nemaha; that of the Little Tarkio is now about eleven
miles below, but the channel is very changeable. Tarkio is
said to mean "full of walnuts."--ED.

[165] The Little Nemaha flows through the Nebraska county of
the same name; its mouth is between the towns of Aspinwall and
Nemaha.--ED.

[166] Nishnabotna is an Indian word signifying "canoe making
river." Fifteen years earlier, Lewis and Clark found the
divide between the rivers about three hundred yards wide. At
that time the mouth of the Nishnabotna was on the line between
Atchison and Holt counties, Missouri. Since then its waters
have found their way across Grand Pass, and the old channel
below that point has been abandoned. In 1804 the main current
of the Missouri ran north of L'Isle Chauve (Bald Island), the
middle of which lay opposite Grand Pass. The channel now runs
south of this island, while the Nishnabotna, reaching the old
channel of the Missouri at the middle of the island, follows it
to the confluence of the island's foot. This was the condition
in 1879 (see _Map of the Missouri River_, from the government
survey, plates xx and xxi), but the channels are constantly
shifting.--ED.

[167] Lewis and Clark applied the name "Bald Hills" to "the
ridge of naked hills" here described, and "Bald-pated Prairie"
to the low lands at their base.--ED.

[168] Lewis and Clarke, vol. i. p. 28.--JAMES.

_Comment by Ed._ The reference is to Biddle's _History of the
Expedition under the Command of Captains Lewis and Clark to
the Sources of the Missouri_, etc. (Philadelphia, 1814). See
also Thwaites, _Original Journals of the Lewis and Clark
Expedition_ (New York, 1904).

[169] This velocity of current is equalled by that of
the Cassiquiare in South America, and probably surpassed by
the Oronoko, the average descent of whose bed is thirteen
inches to the mile of 950 toises (6 feet 4.376 inches per
toise). See Humb. Pers. Nar. vol. v. p. 637, and vol. iv. p.
452. La Condamine and Major Rennel suppose the mean descent of
the Amazon and the Ganges, scarce four or five inches to the
mile, which is about equal to that of the Mississippi,
according to the most satisfactory estimates we have been able
to make.--JAMES.

[170] Platte River (sometimes called Flatwater and Nebraska, all
three names having the same meaning) is the largest tributary
of the Missouri. It joins the latter between Sarpy and Cass
counties, Nebraska, 640.8 miles from the Mississippi. Its
mouth is taken as the line between the "upper" and "lower"
Missouri.--ED.

[171] Species of apios, the glycine of Lin.--JAMES.

[172] See Bradbury's _Travels_, in our volume v, note 40.--ED.

[173] The Mosquito is on the Iowa side, in Pottawatomie County,
its mouth being a few miles below Council Bluffs.

For the Oto Indians, Missouri Fur Company, and Manuel Lisa,
see Bradbury's _Travels_, in our volume v, notes 42, 149, 64
respectively. Lisa established the post named for him, in
1812, and for a decade it was the most important trading
station on the Missouri. It stood about twenty miles above the
present town of Council Bluffs (Iowa), on the opposite side of
the river.--ED.

{137} CHAPTER VIII

Winter cantonment near Council Bluff--Councils with the Otoes,
Missouries, Ioways, Pawnees, &c.

The position selected for the establishment of winter quarters for the exploring party, was on the west bank of the Missouri, about half a mile above Fort Lisa, five miles below Council Bluff, and three miles above the mouth of Boyer's river.[174] At this place we anchored on the 19th of September, and in a few days had made great progress in cutting timber, quarrying stone, and other preparations for the construction of quarters.

Cliffs of sparry limestone rise in the rear of the site we had selected, to an elevation of near three hundred feet.[175] At times of low water, strata of horizontal sandstone are disclosed in the bed of the Missouri. These pass under and support the limestone. Both these strata probably extend in connexion, some distance to the west; but as they are deeply covered with soil, we could not accurately ascertain their boundary in that direction. On the map accompanying this work, we have traced a line running from the Canadian river of the Arkansa, to the Elk Horn, between 96° and 98° west longitude, and marking what we supposed nearly the westernmost limit of the horizontal limestones, and the argillaceous sandstones, disclosed in the beds of the larger rivers.

{138} Both these strata embrace numerous relics of marine animals, many of which we collected.[176]

Immediately after our arrival, an interpreter had been sent across the country, to intercept the traders then on their way to the Pawnees, with considerable quantities of merchandize. It was thought proper to suspend all intercourse with those Indians, until an adjustment of the recent difficulties should take place. In addition to the outrage committed on Mr. Say's party, they had made prisoners of two white hunters from the Arkansa, a father and son, who had been found hunting in the Indian territories. These men had been liberated through the interference of some of the members of the Missouri Fur Company, and had recently arrived at Fort Lisa. During their captivity, they had been treated with such severity by the Pawnees, that they had often entreated an end might be put to their lives.

The interpreter returned on the 20th, having accomplished the object of his mission. Soon afterwards, Mr. Dougherty arrived from the Oto village, whither he had been sent with a deputation to Konzas, to aid in effecting a reconciliation between those nations. This proposition, which originated with the Konzas, was favourably received by the Otoes. Mr. D. was soon afterwards despatched to the Pawnees, with instructions to demand of them the property plundered from Mr. Say's party, also to require that the persons who had committed that outrage should be given up. He was accompanied by two Frenchmen acquainted with the Pawnees and their language.

A party of Otoes arrived at Fort Lisa on the 26th of September, with pack-horses laden with pelfries, and bringing with them a soldier, who, having been accidentally separated from a small detachment that were driving some beeves from Martin's Cantonments, towards Council Bluff, had wandered about in the prairie for five days, without tasting food, {139} when he at last had the good fortune to fall in with the Otoes, who hospitably fed and conducted him to the trading house.

The Council Bluff, so called by Lewis and Clarke, from a council with the Otoes and Missouries held there on the 3d of August 1804, is a remarkable bank rising abruptly from the brink of the river, to an elevation of about one hundred and fifty feet. This is a most beautiful position, having two important military features, security, and a complete command of the river. Its defects are a want of wood within a convenient distance, there being little within a mile above, and much farther below, also a want of stone and of water, except that of the river. From the summits of the hills, about one mile in the rear of the bluff, is presented the view of a most extensive and beautiful landscape. The bluffs on the east side of the river exhibit a chain of peaks stretching as far as the eye can reach. The river is here and there seen meandering in serpentine folds, along its broad valley, chequered with woodlands and prairies, while at a nearer view you look down on an extensive plain interspersed with a few scattered copses or bushes, and terminated at a distance by the Council Bluff.

This position is about five miles above that selected for the wintering post of the exploring party. At the last mentioned place, a very narrow plain or beach, closely covered with trees, intervenes between the immediate bank of the river and the bluffs, which rise near two hundred feet, but are so gradually sloped as to be ascended without great difficulty, and are also covered with trees. This spot presented numerous advantages for the cantonment of a small party like ours. Here were abundant supplies of wood and stone, immediately on the spot where we wished to erect our cabins, and the situation was sheltered by the high bluffs from the north-west winds. The place was called Engineer Cantonment. {140} On the 26th of September, Mr. Say and Mr. Jessup arrived in the flotilla from Cow Island, in company with Col. Morgan, Dr. Gale, and Captain Magee.[177] They had both nearly recovered their health, and entertained the liveliest sense of the eminent politeness and hospitality which had been conferred on them by the above named gentlemen, as well as the other officers of the military expedition.

About one hundred Otoes, together with a deputation of the Ioway nation, who had been summoned to a council by Major O'Fallon, presented themselves at our camp on the 3d of October. The principal chiefs advanced before their people, and upon invitation seated themselves. After a short interval of silence Shonga-tonga, the Big Horse, a large portly Indian of a commanding presence, arose and said, "My father, your children have come to dance before your tent, agreeably to our custom of honouring brave or distinguished persons."

After a suitable reply, by Major O'Fallon, the amusement of dancing was commenced by the striking up of their rude instrumental and vocal music; the former consisting of a gong made of a large keg, over one of the ends of which a skin was stretched, which was struck by a small stick; and another instrument, consisting of a stick of firm wood, notched like a saw, over the teeth of which a smaller stick was rubbed forcibly backward and forward; with these, rude as they were, very good time was preserved with the vocal performers who sat around them, and by all the natives as they sat in the inflection of their bodies, or the movements of their limbs; after the lapse of a little time three individuals leaped up and danced around for a few minutes, then, at a concerted signal from the master of the ceremonies, the music ceased, and they retired to their seats uttering a loud noise, which by patting the mouth rapidly with the hand, was broken into a succession of similar sounds, somewhat like the hurried barking of a dog. Several sets {141} of dancers succeeded, each terminating as the first. In the intervals of the dances, a warrior would step forward and strike a flagstaff they had erected with a stick, whip, or other weapon, and recount his martial deeds. This ceremony is called _striking the post_, and whatever is then said may be relied upon as rigid truth, being delivered in the presence of many a jealous warrior and witness, who could easily detect and would immediately disgrace the _striker_ for exaggeration or falsehood. This is called the beggars' dance, during which some presents are always expected by the performers, as tobacco, whiskey, or trinkets. But on this occasion, as none of those articles were immediately offered, the amusement was not, at first, distinguished by much activity. The master of the ceremonies continually called aloud to them to exert themselves; but still they were somewhat dull and backward. Ietan now stepped forward and lashed a post with his whip, declaring that he would thus punish those who did not dance; this threat from one whom they had vested with authority for this occasion had a manifest effect upon his auditors, who were presently highly wrought up by the sight of two or three little mounds of tobacco twist which were now laid before them, and appeared to infuse new life.

After lashing the post and making his threat, Ietan went on to narrate his martial exploits. He had stolen horses seven or eight times from the Konzas; he had first struck the bodies of three of that nation slain in battle. He had stolen horses from the Ietan nation, and had struck one of their dead. He had stolen horses from the Pawnees, and struck the body of one Pawnee Loup. He had stolen horses several times from the Omawhaws, and once from the Puncas. He had struck the bodies of two Sioux. On a war party, in company with the Pawnees, he had attacked the Spaniards and penetrated into one of their camps; the Spaniards, {142} excepting a man and boy, fled; himself being at a distance before his party, he was shot at and missed by the man, whom he immediately shot down and struck. "This, my father," said he, "is the only martial act of my life that I am ashamed of."[178] After several rounds of dancing, and of striking at the post by the warriors, Mi-a-ke-ta, or the Little Soldier, a war-worn veteran, took his turn to strike the post. He leaped actively about, and strained his voice to its utmost pitch whilst he portrayed some of the scenes of blood in which he had acted. He had struck dead bodies of individuals of all the red nations around, Osages, Konzas, Pawnee Loups, Pawnee Republicans, Grand Pawnees, Puncas, Omawhaws, and Sioux, Padoucas, La Plais or Bald Heads, Ietans, Sauks, Foxes, and Ioways;[179] he had struck eight of one nation, seven of another, &c. He was proceeding with his account when Ietan ran up to him, put his hand upon his mouth, and respectfully led him to his seat. This act was no trifling compliment paid to the well-known brave. It indicated that he had still so many glorious acts to speak of, that he would occupy so much time as to prevent others from speaking, and put to shame the other warriors by the contrast of his actions with theirs.

Their physical action in dancing is principally confined to leaping a small distance from the ground with both feet, the body being slightly inclined, and upon alighting, an additional slight but sudden inclination of the body is made, so as to appear like a succession of jerks; or the feet are raised alternately, the motions of the body being the same. Such are the movements, in which the whole party correspond; but in the figures, as they are termed in our assembly rooms, each individual performs a separate part, and each part is a significant pantomimic narrative. In all their variety of action they are careful to observe the musical cadences. In this dance Ietan represented one who was in the act of stealing {143} horses. He carried a whip in his hand, as did a considerable number of the Indians, and around his neck were thrown several leathern thongs, for bridles and halters, the ends of which trailed upon the ground behind him; after many preparatory manœuvres, he stooped down, and with his knife represented the act of cutting the _hopples_ of horses; he then rode his tomahawk, as children ride their broomsticks, making such use of his whip as to indicate the necessity of rapid movement lest his foes should overtake him. Wa-sa-ba-jing-ga, or Little Black Bear, after a variety of gestures, threw several arrows in succession over his head, thereby indicating his familiarity with the flight of such missiles; he at the same time covered his eyes with his hand to indicate that he was blind to danger. Others represented their manœuvres in battle, seeking their enemy, discharging at him their guns or arrows, &c. &c. Most of the dancers were the principal warriors of the nation, men who had not condescended to amuse themselves or others in this manner for years before; but they now appeared in honour of the occasion, and to conciliate in the best manner the good will of the representative of the government of the Big-knives.[180] Amongst these veteran warriors Ietan, or Sha-mon-e-kus-se, Ha-she-a, the broken arm, commonly called Cut Nose, and Wa-sa-ba-jing-ga, or Little Black Bear, three youthful leaders, in particular attracted our attention. In consequence of having been appointed soldiers on this occasion, to preserve order, they were painted entirely black. The countenance of the former indicated much wit, and had in its expression something of the character of that of Voltaire; he frequently excited the mirth of those about him by his remarks and gestures. Ha-she-a, called Cut Nose, in consequence of having lost the tip of his nose in a quarrel[181] with Ietan, wore a handsome robe of white wolf skin, with an appendage behind him, called a _crow_. This singular decoration is a large cushion, made of the skin of a crow, {144} stuffed with any light material, and variously ornamented; it has two decorated sticks projecting from it upward, and a pendant one beneath; this apparatus is secured upon the buttocks by a girdle passing round the body. The other actors in the scene were decorated with paints of several colours fantastically disposed upon their persons. Several were painted with white clay, which had the appearance of being grooved in many places. This grooved appearance is given by drawing the finger nails over the part so as to remove the pigment from thence in parallel lines. These lines are either rectilinear, undulated, or zigzag; sometimes passing over the forehead transversely or vertically; sometimes in the same directions, or obliquely over the whole visage, or upon the breast, arms, &c. Many were painted with red clay, in which the same lines appeared. A number of them had the representation of a black hand with outspread fingers, on different parts of the body, strongly contrasting with the principal colour with which the body was overspread; the hand was depicted in different positions upon the face, breast, and back. The face of others was coloured, one half black, and one half white, or red and white, &c.; many coloured their hair with red clay; but the eye-lids and base of the ears were generally tinged with vermilion. At the conclusion of the ceremony, whiskey, which they always expect on similar occasions, was produced, and a small portion was given to each. The principal chiefs of the different nations, who had remained passive spectators of the scene, now directed their people to return to their camp. The word of the chiefs was obeyed, excepting by a few of the Ioways, who appeared to be determined to keep their places notwithstanding the reiterated command of the chiefs. Ietan now sprang towards them, with an expression of much ferocity in his countenance, and it is probable a tragic scene would have been displayed had not the chiefs {145} requested him to use gentle means, and thus he succeeded, after which the chiefs withdrew.

October 4th. At ten o'clock, the hour appointed for the council, the Indians, headed by their chiefs, arrived; and after shaking us all by the hand took their seats. There were about one hundred Otoes, seventy Missouries, and fifty or sixty Ioways. They arranged themselves, agreeably to their tribes, on puncheon benches, which had been prepared for them, and which described a semicircle, on the chord of which sat the whites, with Major O'Fallon and his interpreters in the centre. Sentinels walked to and fro behind the benches; and a handsome standard waved before the assembly. The council was opened by a few rounds from the howitzers. A profound silence reigned for a few minutes, when Major O'Fallon arose, and in a very animated and energetic manner addressed his Indian auditors. Suitable replies were given by Shonga-tonga, the Crenier, and others, with all the extravagant gesticulation which is one of the prominent features of Indian oratory.

At the termination of the council, presents were made of blankets, kettles, strouding, tobacco, guns, powder, and ball, &c. The Big Horse and the Crenier only were acknowledged as chiefs, and to the latter, who did not possess a large medal, one was given in exchange for a smaller one which he possessed. No chief was acknowledged amongst the Missouries, as it is the wish of Major O'Fallon to extinguish as much as possible national prejudices between these two nations or tribes.

Cut Nose now presented to the agent his crow and bison robe ornamented with hieroglyphicks. The Little Black Bear presented his robe of white wolf and bison skin, and a pair of handsome leggings. The Black Bird presented a robe and the serrated instrument of music before mentioned, observing, significantly, that the latter was then the only weapon {146} he possessed with which he could defend his father.

October 5th. Last evening Loutre, an old Missouri Indian died; he had spoken in the council a few hours before, and remarked then that he had not long to live. He was buried without ceremony near the trading house.

October 9th. Messengers who had been sent yesterday for the Pawnees returned, having met with them on the Elk Horn creek, twenty-five miles distant, on their way hither.[182] They arrived about noon, seventy in number, consisting of individuals of each of the three tribes, called Grand Pawnees, Pawnee Republicans, and Pawnee Loups, or Pawnemahas, and halted at some distance from our camp. As we approached them we observed the majority of them standing in a forest of young willow trees, holding their mules by the bridles, and looking dubiously around. The chief of the principal band, Long Hair, was haranguing them in a loud voice, "Take off your saddles; why do you stand peeping and trembling in the bushes? you ought to have trembled when the whites were seen near the Konza village, &c." We saluted the principal men in the usual manner of shaking by the hand, though not with much cordiality. Major O'Fallon then said, "Pawnees, encamp here and smoke your pipes in security; you have conducted yourselves badly, but the whites will not harm the red-skins when they have them thus in their power; we fight in the plains, and scorn to injure men seated peaceably by their fires. Think well of what you will have to say to me in council to-morrow." These assurances appeared to annul their present apprehensions, and they proceeded to encamp.

Three boats came from Camp Missouri to take on board a quantity of provisions which are stored here for the troops; we exchanged salutes with them. The noise of the artillery excited the apprehensions of the {147} Indians; who, being sensible of having grossly offended the whites, now anticipated some exemplary punishment, and were not at ease until reassured of their safety, and the cause of the firing of such great guns so near them was explained.