Chapter I: Part 1

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| Transcriber's note: |
| |
| Turkish names seem to be spelled generally in French, |
| which was the Lingua Franca of the period. These have |
| not been corrected. The correct Turkish spellings of |
| some of these names are given at the end of the book. |
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JOURNAL OF A VISIT TO CONSTANTINOPLE, &c. &c.

"You have nothing to do, but transcribe your little red books, if they are not rubbed out; for I conclude you have not trusted every thing to memory, which is ten times worse than a lead pencil. Half a word fixed on or near the spot, is worth a cart load of recollection."

GRAY's _Letters_.

London: Printed by A. Spottiswoode, New-Street-Square.

JOURNAL OF A VISIT TO CONSTANTINOPLE, AND SOME OF THE GREEK ISLANDS, IN THE SPRING AND SUMMER OF 1833.

by

JOHN AULDJO, ESQ. F.G.S.

Author of "The Ascent of Mont Blanc," "Sketches of Vesuvius," Etc.

]

London: Longman, Rees, Orme, Brown, Green, & Longman, Paternoster-Row. 1835.

TO

SIR WILLIAM GELL.

DEAR SIR,

On quitting Naples, for those scenes which your pen and pencil have so faithfully illustrated, I promised to fill my note book. I now offer you its contents, as a small and unworthy token of my gratitude for the long continued kindness you have shown.

Your faithful and obedient servant,

THE AUTHOR.

_Naples, April, 1835._

PREFACE.

The publication of the pages of a journal in the crude and undigested form in which they were originally composed appears so disrespectful to the public, that it requires some explanation. They were written, "currente calamo," among the scenes they describe; more as a record of individual adventure, and to fix the transient impressions of the moment for the after gratification of the author, than with any hope of affording amusement during an idle hour, even to those who might feel an interest in all he saw and noted.

The intense curiosity, however, which exists at present to learn even the minutest particulars connected with Greece and Turkey, and the possibility that some of his hurried notices might not be altogether devoid of interest, have induced the author to submit them to the public attention. In so doing, he has preferred giving them in their original state, with all their defects, to moulding them into a connected narrative; his object being not to "make a book," but to offer his desultory remarks as they arose; to present the faint outline he sketched upon the spot, rather than attempt to work them into finished pictures.

With some hope, therefore, of receiving indulgence from the critics, whose asperity is rarely excited except by the overweening pretensions of confident ignorance and self-sufficiency, he ventures on the ground already trodden by so many distinguished men, whose works, deep in research, beautiful in description, and valuable from their scrupulous fidelity, have left little to glean, and rendered it a rather hazardous task for an humble and unskilful limner to follow in their wake.

While thus disclaiming all pretensions to the possession of their enviable talents, still, if the author should succeed in affording his readers a few hours' pleasure from the perusal of his Journal, or enable any one to re-picture scenes he may himself have visited, the principal object of its publication will have been attained.

_Naples, April, 1835._

TABLE OF CONTENTS
Page

Departure of H.M.S. Actaeon with the British Embassy to
Constantinople 1

Island of Capri. Moonlight Scene 3

My first Night at Sea 4

Sunday on Board 5

Schoolmaster of the Actaeon. Muster of the Crew 6

Stromboli. Somma. Vesuvius 7

Scylla and Charybdis. Homer 8

The Faro. Messina. Preparations to land 9

Sea-sickness. A Host of Grievances 10

Man overboard. Life 11

Cerigo. Taygetus 12

Piping up the Watch. Pursers Bantam 13

Nauplia de Malvoisie 14

Classic Reminiscences. Argos 15

Sharks. Greek Costume 16

Character of King Otho 17

Hydra. Egina. Poros. Russian Fleet 19

Beautiful Landscape. Gulf of Salamis 20

Athens. The Piraeus. Olive Grove 21

English Residents at Athens 22

Visit to the Acropolis. Death of the Chieftain Ulysses 23

Insolence of the Turks 24

Grave of Tweddel. Byron's Grave 25

Armenian Missionaries. Temple of Theseus 26

Metropolis of modern Greece 27

Modern Improvements. Sir P. Malcolm 28

Value of Land. Speculators Plain of Troy. Fidelity of
Sir W. Gell's Map 30

Sources of the Scamander. The Golden Xanthus 31

Tombs of Hector and Paris. Bounarbashi 32

The Simois. Rural Excursion. Segean Promontory.
Tombs of Achilles and Patroclus 33

Passage of the Dardanelles. Influenza 34

Present to the Ambassador. French Fleet 35

Feast of the Bairam. Oriental Splendour 36

Sestos. Turkish Colonel. Castles of the Dardanelles 37

Beautiful Scene. Turkish Salute 38

First View of Constantinople. The Seven Towers 39

The Pasha's Gate. The Slaves' Gate 40

Sultanas. Golden Horn. Beauties of Stamboul 41

Pera. Scutari. Approach of the Actaeon to her Anchorage 42

Turkish Fleet. Size and Condition of the Ships 43

Castle of the Janissaries. Royal Kiosk. Turkish Houses 44

Unwelcome Visitation. Giants' Mountain. Russian Camp.
Saluting the Russian Fleet 45

Jealousy and Remonstrance of the Russian Admiral.
French and English Embassies 46

Russian Military Music. Plague. Orange and Jasmine
Bowers 47

The Caique. Turkish Boatmen 48

Paras. Splendid Fountain. Tophana 49

Pera. Destructive Fire. Guiseppino Vitali 50

Mr. Cartwright, British Consul. A Sail upon the
Bosphorus 51

Funeral of a Russian Soldier 52

Landing of the British Ambassador 53

Greek and Armenian Women. Visit to the Bazaars 54

Public Promenades. Oriental Perfumes 56

Pipe-stick Bazaar. Amber Mouth-pieces 57

Value of the Turkish Pipe 58

Salonica Tobacco. The Nargile 59

Coffee Houses. Shoe Bazaar 60

Jewellery. Broussa Silks 61

Close of the Bazaars. Funeral of the Sultan's
Physician 62

Lord Ponsonby's Audience 63

His Reception. Count Orloff 64

Admiral Roussin. Naval Punishments 65

Cricket. Turkish Fleet 66

Cabobs. Rapacity of the Sultan. "Valley of the
Sweet Waters" 67

Naval Arsenal. Cemeteries 68

Palace. Turkish Horses 69

Interesting Scene. Beautiful Greek 70

The Erraba. Turkish Ladies 71

Dancing Dervishes 73

Greek Bookseller 76

Mosque of Solimanie 77

Seraskier's Tower. Conflagrations 78

View of Constantinople. Hermitage on Vesuvius.
Burnt Pillar 79

Hippodrome 80

The Author in danger of arrest. Anecdote. St. Sophia 81

Visit to the Seraglio. Effects of a Golden Key 82

Coffee Shop in a Plane-tree. Funeral Pomp 83

Costume. Mustapha the Scent Dealer. Beed Caimac.
Mahalabe 84

Turkish Printing Office. Anecdote of a Sultana 85

Ibrahim Pasha. Affront offered to the Captain of
the Actaeon 87

Insolence of the Russians. Military Punishments 88

Sultan's Valley. Buyukdere. Aqueduct 89

Cossack Horses. Russians hated by the Turks 90

Horn Bands. Beautiful Airs 91

Fondness of the Turks for Champagne. A Venetian Story 92

College of Pages. Christian Burying-ground 93

Sultan's Visit to the Mosque 94

Politeness of a Turkish Officer. The successful Shot 95

Namik Pasha. Count Orloff and the Sultan 96

The Procession. Turkish Horses. Appearance and
Dress of the Grand Signior 97

His Bacchanalian Propensities. Laughable Anecdote 98

New Regulation Soldier 99

Palace of the British Embassy 100

Scene in the Arm Bazaar 101

George Robins. Curious Weapons. Damascus Blades.
Turkish Merchants 102

Swords of Khorassan. Their Temper 103

Jew Brokers. Actaeon 104

Humours of a Turkish Auction 105

Slave Market 106

A Georgian Beauty. Scarcity of white Slaves 108

Price of a Female Slave. Turkish Confectionary 109

Armenian Visiteos. Residence of an Armenian Gentleman 110

Oriental Costume 111

Turks. Armenians. Greeks 112

Jew Interpreters. Flattering Compliment to the English
Character 113

Oriental Politeness. Portraits 114

Decrease of Fanaticism. Persian Silk. St. John's Egypt 115

Cashmere Shawls. Angora Shalee. Ladies' Dresses 116

Hummums 117

Eastern Story-teller 121

Matthews at Constantinople. Turkish Politeness.
Description of an "At Home" in Stamboul 122

Naval Banquet 128

Seven Towers 131

Tomb of Ali Pasha 134

Russian Insolence 136

Visit to Ibrahim Pasha 137

Violent Conduct of the Russians to an English
Gentleman 138

Laughable Anecdote of a Turk 139

Beautiful Scene. Contrasted Manners of the Turks
and Greeks 141

The Muezzin 144

Madame Mauvromati. The Plague 146

Massacre of the Greeks 147

Anecdote of the Sultan 148

Neapolitan Steam-boat. English Travellers 151

Jewish Musician. Merry Greeks 152

Greek Lady. Elegant Costume 153

Affability of the Turkish Females 156

The Pilot of the Actaeon and the Seraskier 157

Foreign Visitors 159

Oriental Beauty 160

The Ottoman Empire. Lord Grey 162

Morning Prayer. The Muezzin 163

Sunrise. Power of Religion on the Heart 164

Russian Camp. Lady Ponsonby 165

Russian Insolence to an English Party 166

Namik Pasha. Tahir Pasha 167

Excursion on the Black Sea. Beauties of the Seraglio 168

The Symplegades 169

Colour of the Black Sea. Experiment the Test of Truth 170

Character of the Russians by a Turkish Innkeeper 171

Grand Review. Splendid Staff 172

Giant's Mountain 174

Extensive Prospects. Mt. Olympus 175

Prince Butera and the Sultan 177

Detention of the Steamer. Illiberal Conduct of the
Prince 178

Royal Country Seat 180

Insecurity of Property. The Bowstring 181

Author's Preparations to Depart. H. M. Ship Actaeon.
Lord Ponsonby 182

Visit to the Mosques. St. Sophia 183

Fate of Constantinople. Tribute of Respect to
Lord Ponsonby 189

Armenian Painter. Poetical Description
of Constantinople 190

My fellow-Passengers 192

Marble Quarries. Isle of Marmora 193

Greek Deputation. Anecdote 194

Pleasant Dormitory. Extraordinary Transformation 196

British Fleet. Gulf of Smyrna 199

French Squadron. King of Greece 200

Smyrna. Excessive Heat 201

Departure for Syra 202

Accident. Island of Scio 203

Island of Tinos. Quarantine 204

Landing of the King. Ship Launch 206

Festival of St. John the Baptist 208

Syra. Bishop's Palace 209

Ladies of Mycone. Costume 210

Delos. Vulgar Tourists 211

Modern Antique 213

Naxos. Paros. Beautiful Anchorage 214

Visit to Antiparos 215

Marine Prospects. Spotico 216

Entrance to the Cavern 217

Perilous Descent 218

Melodramatic Scene 219

Description by a Naval Officer. Magnificent Passage 224

Excessive Terror. Disappearance of the Guides 226

Splendid Transition 227

Dimensions of the Grotto 228

Terrified Frenchman. Our Return 229

A Hint to the Ladies. Ludicrous Scene 231

Port of Milo 232

Warlike Mountaineers 233

Anecdote 234

Parting of the Royal Brothers 235

Cerigo. Gulf of Coron. Zante 236

Distant View of Etna. Valetta 238

Lazzaretto. Days of Quarrantine 240

The Parlatorio 241

Persian Carpets. The Mantilla. Maltese Women 242

Medical Examination. Steamer from Corfu 243

Valetta. Maltese Gazette 244

Garrison of Malta. Strange Conduct of the Prince 245

Lady Briggs's Ball. Alicata 246

Miserable State of Sicily. Girgenti 247

Temple of Hercules. Concord 248

Reflections. Coliseum. The Parthenon 249

Temple of Giants. Galley Slaves. Custom-house 250

Marsala. Mazzara. Vintage 251

Palermo. Orange and Lemon Groves 252

Duchess de Berri 253

Scene on Board 254

Capri. Conclusion 256

_Addenda._

List of the Turkish Fleet in the Bosphorus, and of
Mohammed Ali's Navy 257

State of the Thermometer at Constantinople 258

Note to page 24 259

JOURNAL OF A VISIT TO CONSTANTINOPLE, ETC.

[Sidenote: DEPARTURE OF THE ACTAEON.] _Saturday, 6th April, 1833._--Well! All seems at length arranged, and the oft postponed departure of H. M. S. Actaeon for Constantinople, will probably take place this evening. But is there no chance of a further detention? Yes; and many a palpitating heart watches anxiously the state of the heavens.

The morning had been dark and stormy, and heavy vapours rolled along from the north: about noon, however, the weather brightened; yet an occasional cloud, passing over and discharging its liquid contents on the lovely Naples, afforded some expectation that the evening might prove unfavourable. If there were heaving bosoms on shore, there were responding hearts on board; where there were few, indeed, who did not feel some pang at bidding the syren city farewell.

The St. Lucia was thronged with numerous groups of pedestrians, and a long line of carriages, with "weeping beauty filled,"--all manifesting a deep interest in the scene. Sailors have generous hearts, which, like wax, are soon warmed, and easily impressed; but as easily the image may be effaced. Thus ladies assert, that blue jackets

"In every port a true love find."

Reflections akin to these, probably, may have tortured more than one of the fair spectators; and mamma, perhaps, considered it extremely mortifying that an opportunity was not given to _land_ the prize, as well as _hook_ it; and that sailors, like jacks, were exceedingly difficult to catch.

Boats pass rapidly to and from the ship;--the yards are manned; the ambassador's flag flies at the main; and as the smoke from the salute cleared away, the shore, with its precious and weeping burthen, was seen fast receding from the sight. The Actaeon had actually sailed; and the white handkerchiefs, with the ivory arms that waved them, gradually became lost to the view, till distance mingled the entire scene into one grey mass, and

"All was mist, and Naples seen no more."

Such were the transactions that marked the 6th of April, 1833, when I became one of the ship's company, and received an honourable place in her log.

[Sidenote: ISLAND OF CAPRI.] We were compelled to pass close under Capri[1], and its bold perpendicular cliffs towered magnificently above us, casting a deep shadow over the vessel as she sailed along. There was little wind outside the isle, and we were nearly becalmed; but this delay was amply compensated by the extreme beauty of the night. The brilliant moon, shining with far greater lustre than I ever remember to have witnessed, during the height of summer, in less favoured climes, lighted up with its silver beams the whole of that beautiful coast extending along the bay of Salerno, from Amalfi to Palinuro. Long did I remain upon deck, gazing on

"Heaven's ebon vault,
Studded with stars unutterably bright;
Through which the moon's unclouded grandeur rolls."

[Sidenote: MY FIRST NIGHT AT SEA.] But at length, overcome by weariness, I hastened to my cot.--My cot! how shall I describe thee? thou oblong, narrow, swinging thing! rest still a while, nor fly me thus each time I essay to get within thy narrow precincts. Oh! for a chair, a stool, a rope; or have they purposely swung thee so high? hadst thou been o'er a gun, indeed, one might have scaled thee by the breech. So! In at last; yet, with that eternal sentinel walking his rounds within a few paces of my ear, how is it possible to sleep? Exhausted, however, by the novelty and excitement of the past day, at length wearied nature asserted her rights; and I had just begun to sink into a refreshing slumber, when "Quarter," rang in my ears: again I start; ducks cackle, geese scream, pigs grunt, cocks crow, men bawl; all the horrors of the incantation scene in Der Freyschuetz would seem to accompany that same striking of the bells.

"A ship is a thing you never can sleep quiet in,"

says an old song; and most feelingly did I subscribe to the veracious assertion: at length, towards morning, by dint, I think, of conning over that very line, I once more fell asleep.

But my slumbers were of short duration, for with daylight came the order, "Wash decks." Then began slushing and swabbing, and bumping my cot. All the live stock, too, were again in motion, and in fact, I soon perceived it would be better at once to turn out. This was neither easy nor agreeable, the deck being drenched with wet. However, I made up for my night's restlessness by a hearty breakfast, and appeared on the quarter-deck with a face exhibiting no symptoms of squeamishness. We are making for Stromboli, which was visible in the horizon.

[Sidenote: SUNDAY ON BOARD.] _Sunday, 7th._--This morning, after the crew had appeared at quarters,--that is, every man to his station,--the bell rang for divine service, and all the chairs and benches above and below, were put in requisition. The captain then read prayers on the main deck, in a manner at once solemn and impressive. It may here be remarked, that, when the ship carries out an ambassador, the youngsters are exempt from school duties, and their holidays on the present occasion are likely to be of considerable duration. The schoolmaster of the Actaeon is a Scotchman, and his office cannot be an enviable one, if half the tricks in store for him be ever put in practice; while the fact of his hammock being swung close alongside those of his pupils, by no means diminishes the facility of their execution. To-day being Sunday, we dined at three o'clock; and our band, consisting of a drummer and amateur fifer, played us to table with the well-known enlivening air of "The roast beef of old England."

[Sidenote: MUSTER OF THE CREW.] In the evening we had a general muster, and I am confident very few ships ever possessed a finer company than the Actaeon. Really it was a gallant sight to witness this assemblage of stout, able, daring fellows, equipped with their cutlasses and boarding pikes. Looking at them, one no longer felt surprised at the vast naval superiority which Great Britain has ever maintained in her contests with foreign nations. The boatswain's mates, and the quartermasters, are really handsome men, weatherbeaten and bold. Williams, one of the latter, seems a most eccentric character. He is married, and constantly receives letters from his absent rib: these, however, he never takes the trouble to open, but keeps them all neatly tied up. On his return, he says, she can read them to him, all of a lump!

[Sidenote: STROMBOLI.] We are now close to Stromboli, which appears to be the remaining half of a large conical crater; the semicircle which is lost, having fallen away into the sea. There is a small cone in the very centre, from which the explosions take place. They were but slight on the present occasion; and two small apertures emitted a continual cloud of white vapour. The upper part of the old crater consists of layers of rock rising regularly one above the other; and the whole surface much resembles that of Somma.[2] The atmosphere was so clear that the island appeared quite close to us, and I could scarcely credit the master when he asserted it was full fifteen miles distant.

My cot being moved forward, I am infinitely more comfortable, having now only the geese to disturb me. The vessel continued beating to windward till mid-day, when she approached the Faro; and the breeze strengthening, we had every prospect of clearing it.

[Sidenote: SCYLLA AND CHARYBDIS.] Scylla now appeared in view,--the bold, rocky, and much dreaded Scylla,--

"Where sing the syren maids,
Uttering such dulcet and harmonious sounds,
That raptured mortals cannot hear, and live."

LYCOPHRON. _Cassandra._

It exhibits itself in the form of a grey perpendicular cliff; and as we sailed by, the town appeared behind it, built on the face of a steep slope, of the same colour as the surrounding mass. This is a dangerous lee shore for a speranaro, but not much to be dreaded by a skilful seaman. However, we were not gratified with the sight of any of those monsters with which the imaginations of classic poets have peopled this celebrated spot; we heard no barkings, nor did the waves even roar as they lashed its famous rocks. Out of one scrape, into another!--

"Close by, a rock of less tremendous height
Breaks the wild waves, and forms a dangerous strait:
Full on its crown a fig's green branches rise,
And shoot a leafy forest to the skies;
Beneath, Charybdis holds her boisterous reign,
Midst roaring whirlpools, and absorbs the main.
Thrice in her gulphs the boiling seas subside;
Thrice in dire thunders she refunds the tide.
Oh! if thy vessel plough the direful waves,
When seas, retreating, roar within her caves,
Ye perish all! though he who rules the main
Lend his strong aid, his aid he lends in vain."

_Odyssey_, B. 12.

[Sidenote: PREPARATIONS TO LAND.] We were now close upon Charybdis, where the water is shallow, and the low sands exceedingly dangerous, as at times it is difficult to discern them. A most wretched village, and a miserable lighthouse, represent this terror of the ancient Greek mariners. A few Indian figs and stunted olive trees are almost the only symptoms of vegetation discernible; and two fat priests, who were basking in the sun, upon the sand, seemed the only inhabitants.

The coast on either side the Faro is very beautiful; and the land, judging from the number of houses, villages, and appearance of general cultivation, must be fertile. The wind having changed, we approached Messina rapidly, gallantly nearing it, with all sail set. The heavens threatened bad weather; and therefore the ambassador, tempted by the neat and clean appearance of the town, resolved to go ashore. Every preparation was made accordingly; the chain cable was clear, and the men at the best bower-anchor; when, it being considered injudicious to lose so fair a breeze, we again set sail, to the disappointment of most persons on board; and Messina, with all its gay attractions, was soon far astern. The wind, though fair, was rising into a gale as we got into the open sea off Spartivento, and the ship rolled terribly. Dined to-day with the captain, and found some difficulty in stowing away his good fare, but got creditably through, until the wine began to circulate at the dessert, when I was compelled to make a precipitate retreat, and arrived at the gangway only just in time to save the honour of the quarter-deck. However, I soon righted again, and at night took my grog kindly in the _pighole_; which was considered no bad sign for an incipient tar.

[Sidenote: SEA SICKNESS.] The following morning I was awakened at daylight by a host of grievances,--a scraping above and a scraping below, that set all my nerves in commotion. Oh! that some other means could be devised for cleaning decks, than that of holy stoning them! It roused me from a pleasant slumber, to the horrid consciousness of the ship's pitching and rolling to such a degree that I was unable to raise my head from the pillow. Then the alarm I was in, lest I should be compelled to get up, and have my cot stowed away before eight o'clock. Yet it was some consolation to know that we were scudding across the Adriatic at the tremendous rate of ten, and sometimes eleven, knots an hour; so that, if we continue to proceed thus rapidly much longer, the voyage will soon be at an end. I was allowed to swing in my cot all day, and partook of a good dinner into the bargain, which Master Thew, one of the ship's boys, with whom I had become a great favourite, brought and forced me to partake of. Got up in the evening for half an hour, and showed on deck. What a splendid sight! The ship, with comparatively very little canvas set, majestically ploughed her course through the mighty billows, that seemed vainly endeavouring to arrest her career; though, from the way in which she rolled, she must occasionally have been so unpolite as to display her naked keel to the heavens.

[Sidenote: MAN OVERBOARD.] The mountains around Navarino are in sight: 'tis the land of Arcadia. The gale still continues, the wind whistles shrilly through the rigging, and the sea roars and tosses us about. Perceiving a great stir on deck, I sang out to inquire the cause: "A man overboard," was the reply. I made instant preparations to hasten up, in the hope of seeing him rescued. The cutter and gig were down, and the life-buoy out, in an instant, but, poor fellow! he could not swim; and, though he rose near the buoy, he had not strength to seize it; and after struggling for a few moments, now deep in a trough of the sea, now mounted aloft on the summit of the waves, he sank to rise no more. The swell was so tremendous, that the boats with difficulty reached the buoy; and some fears were entertained lest they should be unable to live in such a sea. After considerable suspense, they returned in safety to the ship, and we proceeded in our rapid course, as if nothing extraordinary had happened. The life-buoy is a most admirable invention. It hangs astern the tafrail, and is dropped by pulling a trigger, which is always done by the person next at hand on the occurrence of an accident. If it should happen at night, a similar contrivance fires a train, which lights a lamp in the buoy; and the poor drowning man discerns, in an instant, the means of preserving his life. The gale increasing from the N.W., the storm sails were set; but, by noon, we neared the coast, and ran into the bay of Servia, where we found shelter and calm water. The coast is extremely bold, but very barren.

[Sidenote: THE LIFE-BUOY.--CERIGO.] _Thursday, 11th._--At eight o'clock A.M. we were sailing, with a gentle breeze, between the island of Cerigo and the mainland. The snow-capped mountain of Taygetus rose behind the lofty coast in the extreme distance. Cerigo is also very barren: I could perceive very little appearance of cultivation. There are two villages in the upper part of the island; and there is another, considerably larger, on the south side. Two companies of British soldiers, with a resident, are stationed here, and a state of perfect banishment it must prove, the only amusement being field sports, and the island is by no means well stocked with game. Cerigo was famous, in antiquity, for the worship of Venus; and the goddess of beauty rose from the sea somewhere near the spot where we now are. After getting out of the strait, and weathering Cape St. Angelo, the sea again became rough, and we beat about the point all day, much to my regret, for the quiet experienced in the bay of Servia was quite delightful, after the tossing boisterous weather we had in the Adriatic. A Greek steamer passed us in the course of the day, but did not come within hail.

[Sidenote: PIPING UP THE WATCH.] Among the various grievances which nightly disturb my rest, the piping up of the different watches must not be omitted. A long shrill whistle first rouses me, followed by the hoarse cry of "All the starboard watch." Another similar prelude, is the forerunner of "Hands to shorten sail," or, "Watch make sail:" and as if each of these was not in itself sufficient to "murder sleep," the purser's bantam cock invariably responds with a long loud crow. From the first, I have vowed the death of that hero; but he is so great a favourite among the crew, that I can tempt no one to be his executioner. However, the captain's steward has been argued into the propriety of killing the old gander, which is a great victory. With it I am fain to be content for the present; and the "Purser's Tom" must still crow on in a solo, though the other has ceased to sing second.

[Sidenote: NAUPLIA DI MALVOISIE.] This is a most lovely morning; a light breeze wafts us up the gulf of Napoli, while far on the eastern horizon, rise the islands of Spezzia and Hydra; and further to the south, that of Kaimena. We are now off the singular looking town of Nauplia di Malvoisie, built on a square island, having two platforms, each resembling a gigantic stair. The lower town is walled on three sides only, as the perpendicular face of the cliff renders any defence unnecessary on that side; and on the summit of the precipice stands the upper town and castle. The rock is of a red colour, and the whole has a very picturesque appearance. A narrow isthmus and a lofty bridge connect the island with the adjacent continent. The mountains are barren; but the valleys appeared green and beautiful.

[Sidenote: CLASSIC REMINISCENCES.] Early the following morning, we anchored off Nauplia di Romania, and were saluted by H. M. S. Barham, a French store-ship, and two Russian brigs. From the delay occasioned by the minister's coming on board, and by visits from the authorities and captains of the men of war, it was late ere we got on shore. I had therefore time to gaze on the beautiful panorama around, embracing the land of Argos, once so celebrated, and still associated with the school-boy's earliest recollections. In the distance, on a pointed hill, stands its ruined city. Before me, on the plain, I beheld all that remained of Tirynth; in the mountains stood Mycenae; and to the north, Epidauras. How many interesting fictions are connected with these scenes! Here Hercules was born and passed his youthful days; and here, too, he performed many of his most illustrious labours; here stood the brazen tower of the lovely Danae; here Perseus reigned; here the fifty daughters of Danaus murdered their new-married husbands in a single night; here Juno was born; and in Argos, too, Agamemnon reigned. On the left of my position, looking towards the sea, rises a lofty sombre cliff, whence a chain of sloping rocks extend to the fortress above Nauplia, the castellated Palamide. Within its dungeons, Grievas and several other rebels, with the pirates lately taken, are now confined. At the base of the Palamide, rises a second hill, on which is built the town, extending down to the water's edge. I am told there are some remains of ancient fortifications on the side next to the citadel, but I could discover none that boasted of very remote antiquity. Outside the town, is a public walk beautifully embowered in trees.

[Sidenote: SHARKS.--NAUPLIA.] Several sharks made their appearance round the Barham, and sometimes approached our vessel. As they sailed rapidly up and down, their sharp serrated fins rising above the surface of the calm unruffled waves, reminded me of the circular saw at Portsmouth dockyard, working its way through some vast beam of timber, verging neither to right or left, but keeping on its steady course heedless of all impediments. The rifles were quickly in requisition, and several of the officers of the Barham repeatedly shot at them, but did not manage to boat one.

Went on shore, and visited the modern town of Nauplia; where I observed that many respectable houses have been recently erected, several good shops opened, and the streets are much cleaner than might be expected. Its old palace was an insignificant building, but they are adding considerably to it. The Greeks being forbidden to carry arms, their costume is less picturesque than formerly; but, on some of the noble-looking figures I saw, it still appeared handsome and becoming. None of Graecia's beauteous daughters were visible to-day, all the women being invariably ugly, and by no means well dressed. To-morrow is a _festa_, when perhaps I shall have more reason to admire them.

[Sidenote: CHARACTER OF KING OTHO.]_Sunday, 14th._--Walked towards Argos, and took a sketch of the bay, but observed no pretty faces, and very few handsome dresses either native or foreign. The Bavarian troops are mean-looking men, and their light blue uniform is far from imposing. On my return I saw the king walk in procession to church. The Greeks, no doubt, dislike his religion, they being much more intolerant towards Roman Catholics than the Protestants are; yet, as he visits the churches on all _festas_, they do not openly murmur. His personal appearance certainly wants dignity, and his Tartar features appear to great disadvantage when contrasted with those of true Grecian mould, by which he is surrounded. However, his prepossessing manners and perfect urbanity, in some measure compensate for these personal defects; and, upon the whole, the people appear well pleased and contented with their youthful monarch. It is said the palikari, or soldiers of the late governments, do not unite themselves with the regular army which is forming, so readily as was expected, and that recourse must again be had to Bavarian troops to keep the country in a state of subjection, and protect the industrious. Our Greek pilot (he was once a pirate), with a large party of his friends, met us in the town. We enquired how they liked their king: their reply was, they had no alternative, since the allies had sent him; but added, that they were ready to treat him as they had previously done Capo d'Istrias, should he attempt any thing against their liberties.

The king mixes a good deal with his new subjects; he rides out every day without guards, and almost unattended; and strolls upon the public promenade at the hours when the _beau monde_ frequent it. His presence, however, excites little attention; and, except by his uniform, the star upon his breast, and the few aides-de-camp who attend him, he would hardly be recognised by a stranger.

[Sidenote: HYDRA.--EGINA]. _Monday, 15th._--The ambassador having received despatches from Constantinople, announcing the arrival of Russian troops, we were unexpectedly compelled to set sail again immediately, and our vessel passed between the island of Spezzia and the main land this morning with a fair wind. The town is pretty, the houses being detached, and displaying an appearance of great neatness. Spezzia, from its exceedingly commodious harbour, has always engrossed much of the carrying trade to and from the continent of Greece; and the inhabitants are, consequently, wealthy. In the afternoon we coasted along the island of Hydra, which presents nothing but lofty barren cliffs, until you arrive close to the town that is built round the crater of an extinct volcano, the centre of which forms the harbour. Owing to the extreme depth of the water, there is no anchorage, and all craft are moored to the wharfs. The town very much resembles Amalfi, and is protected by two forts, one of which mounts twelve, and the other sixteen, guns. From the proximity of either shore, the entrance to the harbour is singularly beautiful; and the surrounding country, though barren, is very bold and picturesque. Passing Poros in the distance, we now entered the Gulf of Egina, the prospect hourly increasing in richness and beauty. The Russian fleet lay at anchor in Poros, and we plainly descried the admiral's flag flying on shore. In the evening we approached

"Egina's beauteous isle,"

and could distinguish, on the summit of a hill, the ruins of its temple, of which there are, I believe, twenty-three columns still remaining up-right. It is impossible for the imagination to conceive any landscape more lovely than the one now before us. The wooded isle,--the ruined temple, rising above the dense masses of foliage,--Athens and its Acropolis, just distinguishable in the distance,--Pentelicus and Hymettus ranging behind it, and, farther to the right, Cape Colonna. The sky was clear and beautifully blue, and a light breeze wafted us slowly over the rippling waves. There was not the slightest swell; all was calm, tranquil, and serene. Then, when the sun sunk behind Morea's hills, and shed a flood of gorgeous light over the whole landscape, it produced a picture, the loveliness of which will for ever remain impressed upon my memory.

[Sidenote: GULF OF SALAMIS.] _Tuesday, 16th._--The gulf, or bay, of Salamis, into which we were now sailing, is a deep inlet, surrounded by an amphitheatre of low semicircular hills. Here the army of Xerxes was posted; and the highest of these knolls is still pointed out as the spot where stood the golden throne of the Persian monarch, when he looked upon that battle which so humbled his pride.

"A king sat on the rocky brow
Which looks o'er sea-born Salamis;
And ships, by thousands, lay below,
And men in nations:--all were his.
He counted them at break of day,
And when the sun set, where were they?"

[Sidenote: ATHENS.] Again weighing anchor, in a quarter of an hour we entered Porto Leone,--the ancient Piraeus; which, though deep enough to float a seventy-four, is so very narrow at the entrance, that there is but sufficient space for a vessel to pass, with a few feet on either side to spare. We regretted the orders were, to be on board at night, and that we should sail again at daylight. The ambassador landed under a salute; but I waved this ceremony, and hastened ashore with a party of officers and youngsters. We walked towards Athens, along the old road, and struck into the olive grove, very little of which now remains, it having been destroyed by both Greek and Turk. At length the Acropolis burst upon our anxious view; and, as we toiled up the hill of the Areopagus, the Temple of Theseus presented itself. Passing along the miserable collection of mud and stones, here dignified with the name of a wall, we entered this renowned city, once the seat of civilization and the arts, but which, at present, consists of little more than an assemblage of wretched hovels, the principal buildings having been nearly all destroyed. Near the gate, one good house has been rebuilt; and, a little farther on, a still larger mansion on speculation. [Sidenote: ENGLISH RESIDENTS AT ATHENS.]This being a holyday, the bazaar was closed, and after examining the remains of a building of Corinthian architecture, supposed to have been Adrian's Library, we passed on to the residence of Mr. Bell, an English gentleman, who has lately bought property near Athens, where he resides, in a building which has suffered less than many others. Mr. Finlay, who has lived upwards of ten years among the Greeks, also possesses large property in and about Athens. This gentleman undertook to be our cicerone, and we proceeded to the hotel in search of the Bavarian commandant, from whom it is necessary to obtain an order for admission, before we could visit the interior of the Acropolis. On reaching the hotel, which, by the by, is a most excellent and commodious house, we found the colonel at dinner, and the necessary permission was immediately granted. The Acropolis had only been surrendered to the new dynasty on Sunday last; and, had we arrived one week earlier, we should have seen the crescent still towering over this "abode of the Gods," instead of the Greek cross, by which it has been replaced.

[Sidenote: DEATH OF THE CHIEFTAIN ULYSSES.] Passing the ruins of the Temple of Victory, _involucris Victoria_[3], we soon arrived at the gate of the fortress, and found the ambassador and Lady Ponsonby, with the captain of the Actaeon, and other persons, endeavouring to gain admission, which was resolutely refused by the Bavarian guard. Luckily my order sufficed for us all; and we hurried up,--a motley group of officers, sailors, Greeks, donkeys, horses, and idlers,--shouting, laughing, and dissipating all the charm of the visit and the sanctity of the spot. I therefore detached myself from the party as soon as possible; and, in company with Mr. Finlay, endeavoured to pay that attention to the wonders of the place, which I could not otherwise have done. From the lofty tower erected by the Venetians, the brave chieftain Ulysses was thrown down, and dashed to pieces. He was confined there; and though his keepers assert that he met his death from the breaking of a rope, by which he attempted to escape, there is little doubt he was cast from the giddy height by design. The propylaea or vestibule is nearly destroyed, and buried in ruins; but the columns, still extant, are exceedingly beautiful: and the stone, which formed the architrave of the door, is of an enormous size, but it is cracked in the centre. Hence we proceeded to the Erechtheon, whose southern portico is still supported by five caryatides, the sixth having been thrown down. [Sidenote: INSOLENCE OF THE TURKS.] The neighbouring temple, which was reserved as a harem for the women, whilst Athens was in possession of the Turks, suddenly fell in, and crushed the whole of its unfortunate occupants to death. In the centre of the temple of Minerva stands a mosque, which is at present occupied as a barrack by the Bavarian troops. Whenever the Osmanlis take possession of a Greek village, they invariably ride into its Christian church, and endeavour to force their horses to defile the altar. By way of retaliation, when their mosque was delivered up last Sunday, certain Englishmen imitated their example. As may be readily supposed, this incensed the Turks to a great degree; but, like the conquered Christians, they were compelled to submit.

It were a needless task to expatiate on the beauty of this temple, with its noble columns, and its magnificent metopes; for the best still remain, where Lord Elgin could not reach them. The prospect from the summit of the building, whither I mounted to inspect these interesting relics, is most splendid; but then,

"Where'er we tread, 'tis haunted, holy ground;
No earth of thine is lost in vulgar mould;
But one vast realm of wonder spreads around,
And all the muse's tales seem truly told;
Till the sense aches with gazing, to behold
The scenes our earliest dreams have dwelt upon."

[Sidenote: GRAVE OF TWEDDEL.] We next visited what is called Demosthenes's Lantern, situated close to a ruined house, formerly the Franciscan convent. Mr. Finlay and some others have cleared away the rubbish and masses of fallen masonry from about the Lantern: they have also dug a ditch around it, to prevent the devastation committed by visitors who attempt to break and carry away the ornaments: they have not yet learnt

"To pass in peace along the magic waste;
To spare its relics:--let no busy hand
Deface the scenes, already how defaced!"

The Temple of Theseus, one of the most perfect existing specimens of ancient architecture, is an admirable combination of lightness and solidity. Neither time, war, nor the hand of man, often a more ruthless destroyer than either, has yet invaded the sanctity of this splendid relic of Grecian art. The bodies of the unfortunate Tweddel, and of a person named Watson, are buried within its precincts; and it struck me, at the moment, that the remains of Byron might here have found an appropriate resting-place.

[Sidenote: AMERICAN MISSIONARIES.] Having finished the round of antiquities, we proceeded to Mr. Finlay's house, a very comfortable mansion; in which he has collected some interesting relics of antiquity, and among them, many very curious inscriptions. In this neighbourhood is a large house built by the American missionaries, who have a school of between 200 and 300 children, and do much good. The pupils follow the religion of their parents, whether Greek or Turk; the missionary confining his exertions to instructing them in reading, writing, and some mechanical art, as well as in their duties to their parents and the state. We returned to the hotel, and had an excellent dinner; with an ample supply of good wine and English porter, although there were thirty individuals present. The charges, too, were moderate; there was, of course, a little attempt at imposition, _a la Grecque_; but that matter was quickly arranged. Before we left the town it was quite dark, and on passing the Temple of Theseus, it was then illuminated by the glare of a large fire, round which a party of Greeks were dancing: it looked even more beautiful than by daylight. On reaching the vessel, I retired to my cot, and endeavoured to recall the splendid objects of the day's ramble. But a very confused and imperfect representation remained, like the recollection of a dream, of which some few prominent points had alone been remembered.

[Sidenote: METROPOLIS OF MODERN GREECE.] It is not improbable that Athens may be selected as the seat of government: this choice, however, will arise less from the advantages of position, than from the associations connected with its former history. Corinth is infinitely more central; and Nauplia, from the excellence of its harbour, and the facility of communication with the principal towns and with the isles, would be a desirable city for that purpose. With this latter, the government ought to be satisfied; and it is hardly to be conceived that the king longs for fine palaces, and his ministers for superb hotels, in the present depressed state of the country. Should they leave Nauplia, and migrate to Athens, one half of the revenue will be expended in building, if the plans which have been sketched out for the new town are adhered to. One of these, proposes the Piraeus as the port, and that the necessary warehouses, counting-houses, docks, &c. shall be erected there; and from thence, a fine macadamised road is to lead to the city. There, palaces, streets, public buildings are to be built, and walks and gardens laid out. With this arrangement, all the plans, except one, coincide; but they differ as to the exact site which the city ought to occupy. [Sidenote: MODERN IMPROVEMENTS.] One suggests that the palace and the principal buildings shall be outside the present town; and that a large and broad street should extend from the temple of Theseus to these modern improvements. I believe this is Gropuis's plan, who has purchased all the property in the suburbs. Another proposes that the palace shall be built on the side of the Acropolis towards the sea, near the Odeum. The author of this scheme owns all the ground thereabouts; so that private interest, and not patriotism, would seem to be the _primum mobile_ of their suggestions. In fact, the whole of the land in and about Athens is now the property of foreigners, who are speculating on the immense prices to be obtained for ground-rent, &c. The landed proprietors, and the common people, who are all labourers, are well contented with the new arrangements; but the military chiefs and their followers will, for a long time, be a stumbling-block in the way of the government, even if they do not thwart and render nugatory all its attempts at improvement.

[Sidenote: VALUE OF LAND.] Sir Pulteney Malcolm has built a magnificent house, about two miles from the town, at the enormous cost of 3000_l._; but at one time was on the eve of selling it for half that sum, so discouraging were appearances on the political horizon of Greece. Now, however, he is exceedingly glad that he did not; for, his being the only house at all calculated for the king's residence, should the court establish itself at Athens, it will probably be advantageously let to the government. The value of land was extremely depreciated a few months back, but it has since risen to such a height, that, for the future, speculators arriving in Greece will be unable to purchase with any prospect of advantage. The system of farming is that of the _metayer_; and those who bought property when it was cheap, have realised a certain profit, but far less than they expected. However, such as own land within the walls will sell or let it again at a considerable gain.

_Wednesday, 17th._--We quitted the Piraeus, with great regret, early this morning, and continued beating about in the Bay of Egina, near Cape Colonna, the whole day, which was fine, though excessively hot.

A light breeze carried us by Ipsara and Mitylene, and every one on board was in high spirits at the prospect of seeing the Asiatic coast next day.

[Sidenote: PLAIN OF TROY.] _Saturday, 20th._--We passed close under the shore of Asia, opposite Alexandria Troas, the ruins of which were visible, and, at length, came to anchor in Basike Bay, a little south of the mouth of the Amnis Navigabilis, and opposite to AEsachus's tomb. I landed after dinner, and, having waded up to the middle through the river, walked to a tumulus on the south side of Jene Keni, the top of which affords a fine view of the plain of Troy and the entrance to the Dardanelles. Luckily, I had with me a tracing of Sir William Gell's map, the exactness of which enabled me to point out to my companions the principal points of interest. The plain is extremely rich and fertile, and, altogether, had quite an English air. A considerable quantity of timber is scattered about very picturesquely, and numerous herds of goats and cattle grazing added to the beauty of the scene. The ground was enamelled with the bright colours of millions of anemones; and storks, small tortoises, and brown-coloured snakes were seen in vast numbers in all directions.

_Sunday, 21st._--The wind blew so hard to-day, and there was such a swell on the beach, that it was impossible to land. A French government cutter passed us from Constantinople, with despatches for the French admiral. The captain came on board, and reported that the Russian force was receiving daily accessions; that Lord Ponsonby's arrival was anxiously expected; and that peace had been concluded between Ibrahim and the Porte.

[Sidenote: SOURCES OF THE SCAMANDER.] _Monday, 22nd._--Started this morning, with the doctor, the master, and the tutor for Troy. We ascended AEsachus's tomb, and proceeded thence across undulating hills, covered with stunted oaks and brambles, varied occasionally by large tracts of cultivation, towards the sources of the Scamander, indicated by the grove of willows and poplars around them. Passing a large swamp, where there were innumerable storks and waterfowl, we at last arrived at the famous spring, called the Cold Spring, in Gell's map. It lies under a hill, and is surrounded by oak, willow, fig, and poplar trees, having brambles and wild vines hanging from them in festoons. Here, the clear water of the golden Xanthus flowing among the reeds, and over the ochre-coloured stones, tempts the thirsty passer-by with its cool and refreshing appearance.

We sat down on a green mound, between the largest of the two springs, and tried the temperature of them all. There are three principal sources rising out of the base of the rock, which is a limestone breccia; the fragments imbedded being limestone and reddish sandstone, which communicates to the water its golden hue. The temperature of the air was 55-6/10, and that of the springs, No. 1, 64 deg.; 2, 65 deg.; 3, 65 deg.[4]

[Sidenote: TOMBS OF HECTOR AND PARIS.] Thence we proceeded to the source called the Hot Springs; the only difference in the actual temperature being one degree, but on immersing the hand there is a sensible warmth. These are also under a grove of trees, situated near the village of Bounarbashi.[5] We ascended the tombs of Hector and Paris, which command a fine view of the Simois in its entire course, from the point where it issues from the mountains, to its junction with the Hellespont. There were no antiquities, besides a remnant of a granite column, neither did we observe any inhabitants, except an old man and a few children; but myriads of storks covered the fields in every direction. Returning to the Scamander, we lunched at its sources; and then reclining on a beautiful piece of turf, under the shade of a wide spreading oak, we enjoyed our pipes until the declining sun warned us to bend our course towards the ship.

[Sidenote: ABYDOS.] _Tuesday, 23d._--We sailed this morning, as the wind proved fair for entering the Dardanelles. In passing close to the Segean promontory, which is covered with windmills, the view of the Asiatic fort and the town, with the tombs of Achilles and Patroclus, and, further on, that of Ajax, opened upon us.[6] [Sidenote: PASSAGE OF THE DARDANELLES.] The castles appeared well fortified on the side exposed to the sea, their enormous guns lying on a level with the surface of the water; but, landward, they are defenceless. The shores of the channel are by no means so lofty as I was prepared to find them, and of their much vaunted beauty I saw nothing, saving now and then a green and cultivated valley, which are indeed "few, and far between." The cliffs appeared to be composed of a coarse and soft sandstone, nearly white, resembling chalk at a distance. We came to anchor a few miles above the castles, with the consolation that the north wind, now set in, might perhaps continue to blow for weeks. Contrary to our expectations, however, the breeze having veered to the southward in the course of the day, we weighed, and advanced a short distance up the channel; but the wind again dying away, the current bore us back, and we anchored in our former position.

There are now seventy of the crew on the sick list, including the first and third lieutenant, the master, and several of the youngsters, all like myself, suffering from the influenza. The sailors have christened it the Dardanelles fever; and the men who are well, swear the others sham illness, in order to escape the working through the Hellespont. Should the captain get impatient and resolve to beat up, there will be no end to the tacking, and the orders, "Her helm's a lee, and mainsail haul," will be sufficiently imprinted on my memory.