Chapter II: Preface (2)

_Tuesday_ morning.--Looked through the State House--a fine building. The Congress Hotel we found comfortable. Nothing worth noticing in the town. We took stage and passed Rensselaer's Estate all the way to Troy. The cause of dispute is the doubt the farmers have that one of the Dutch kings did not give and covenant the seestates, which the Van Rensselaer can prove by parchment: thus the tarring and feathering is done. Troy population is 40,000: a nice town, with a splendid arsenal, 156 miles from New York. The Hudson is navigable no farther. We took a chaise to the Shaker Village of Watervleit, where we found a Shaker settlement of about 120 people: there are three more in the neighbourhood; in all about 400. At this place they have 2000 acres of good land, their own: they grow everything they eat, and are all teetotallers. We entered the house where the Shaker manufactures are sold. We purchased a few dollars' worth, and they politely presented my friend and I with a book each. The old gentleman and lady were very civil, and showed us over the gardens, where they grow seed for sale, which is sold by Wilcox, London. They are famed for it all over the world. Pine-apples are growing in abundance; also water-melons, tomatoes, &c. The place was in beautiful order, and they appeared happy. They declined to show us the chapel, or the lady Shakers. They all live in single blessedness, and devoted to a life of celibacy. They are called Shakers from their peculiar form of adoration, which consists of a dance, performed by the men and women of all ages, advancing and retiring in a preposterous sort of trot. All the possessions and revenues of the settlement are thrown into a common stock, which is managed by the elders. They are capital farmers, and good breeders of cattle; honest and just in their transactions; and are the only class of people, either gentle or simple, that can resist _thievish_ tendencies in horse-dealing. We returned to Lansingburgh, where packers of beef live, or rather butchers, where they kill and cut bullocks up by steam, as many as 20,000 in the season. At Cincinnati in the West they kill 3000 pigs a-day, or 1,000,000 a-year, in the same way. Back to Troy to dinner, and took railway to Saratoga Springs. This is a beautiful place, and the water is most beautiful. From every part of the states they flock here for three months in the Summer. Population of residents, 2500. New York drapers open stores here. I tasted the Congress spring, Colombian, the Putnam, and one other, all of which tasted very much like German Seltzer water, but very purgative. The United States Inn was our quarters, kept by Mr. Murvin and Judge Murvin. They dine in the season 1000 and 1100 a-day, and lodge regularly between 600 and 700. I cannot speak too highly of this house. Mr. Murvin accompanied us next morning by stage to White Hall, along with Mr. Blanchard, the proprietor of all the stages on this line--a fine fellow. We went along the Champlain Canal, which connects the Hudson River and Lake Champlain, past Glen's Falls. We passed through the region of Burgoyne's operations, near the place of his surrender; Fort Miller, and Fort Edward, where Miss M'Crea was murdered; and the tree to which General Putnam was bound in 1757. This fifty miles was the most frightful travelling I ever had. Great black bears prowl here. Trees and planks were frequently laid across the road to fill up holes; and frequently there would be openings in bridges that a horse could have gone slap into. After many, as I supposed, hairbreadth escapes, going two or three feet into holes, &c., we arrived at White Hall--at the junction of the canal and lake navigation--a place of business before the revolution. Major Skeen lived here. We took the steam-boat _Saranac_, Capt. Lathorp, who politely gave my companion and I a state-cabin. This lake, for beauty of scenery and historical incident, is one of the most interesting in America. It is close to Lake George, which lake, I regret to say, the boats were taken off for the winter. Lake Champlain was discovered by Samuel Champlain in 1609, and extends to St. John's, Canada, 120 miles. We passed Ticonderoga, which was an important military post during the colonial wars. General Abercrombie was defeated here, with the loss of 1941 men, in 1758. Burgoyne was here. We then passed Crown Point, where the British Government expended two millions sterling. We met the Burlington steamer, the most neat and beautiful boat in the United States: were introduced to Captain R.W. Sharman, the beloved commander. This is halfway--an important town of 3000 people. It is the seat of the University of Vermont, as we are now in that state. We then passed Port Kent, Valcour Island, and Plattsburgh, which is situated at both sides of the Saranac River. It is a military post. Here there was a great battle both by land and water: the British land-force was commanded by Sir George Prevost, and the naval by Commodore Downie; the Americans by land General Macomb, and water Commodore M'Donough. They fought two hours and twenty minutes, and the British surrendered. We passed Cumberland-house to the United States line, which has recently been settled by treaty by Lord Ashburton and Mr. Webster.

We here entered Canada, and laid quiet till morning, it being foggy. The Isle Aux Noix is the first military post of the English. We arrived at St. John's at seven. This is the extremity of Lake Champlain, which is here checked by the commencement of the Chambly Rapids to the St. Lawrence. We visited the British barracks. The 81st Regiment was stationed here. This fort sustained a siege of six weeks before it surrendered to General Montgomery in November, 1775. We breakfasted, and proceeded to Montreal by railway, or rather to Laprairie, a dirty town, and crossed the St. Lawrence in a steam-boat. Montreal has 40,000 inhabitants, and is the seat of the Provincial Government. It looks like an old English town.

I may observe that the thermometer stands here to-day at 50°, and was a week ago at 94°. The sudden change has nearly knocked me up. Starved to death, and no fires, except on the floor. Not much comfort in the Exchange Hotel; dirty bedrooms and small. Admired the Roman cathedral: the bell is seven tons weight: it is one of the finest in the world. And the docks are first-rate, with lots of shipping. All bustle and business. Walked about the town. Saw the Courthouse, the Parade-ground, and all the principal buildings. To bed--tired, cold, and weary.

_Friday_ morning, September 27th.--This being mail-day, wrote several letters to England, and forwarded some newspapers. In the afternoon called upon several customers, and found out the stores of all. Rickards and Leeming dined with me. To bed early. Still a bad cold.

_Saturday_ morning.--A regular day of business. Called upon every customer, and found them most civil and polite. I may mention Mr. Cuvillier, sen.; Mr. Masson, of Robertson and Co.'s; Mr. Colquhoun, of Scott, Tyer, and Co.'s; and Mr. Paterson, of Gillespie, Moffat, and Co.'s--four of the largest houses;--indeed, I cannot speak too highly of all. Dined, and took steam-vessel, _The Queen_, to Quebec. A cold, foggy night. Turned in at seven.

_Sunday_ morning.--Found we had lain-to since one o'clock on account of the fog. Had a most refreshing sleep, and rose at seven to breakfast. I could not but admire the St. Lawrence River--the beauty of this noble stream at all points is enchanting. We passed Richelieu, where the corn is grown, in part, that is sent into England. We passed the lovely island of St. Helen's, and over the rapids of St. Mavey, Richelieu, 45 miles from Montreal. Thence Lake St. Peter, nine miles wide. The St. Lawrence does not average more than one mile. We then approach the Richelieu Rapids. The river again becomes interesting. The churches appear with their tin domes and spires. The rafts, with houses built upon them, are floating down the river like some moving world. We left the eastern townships on the right, south of the St. Lawrence, which join the State of Maine and Vermont on the left, or north. We pass Cape Health River, thirty miles behind which is Jackcartier, a settlement for the Irish. At Chasidiere, six miles from Quebec, we pass some great lumber or wood establishments, where ships load for England. We pass Daleam's Island and Point Levi, and approach the harbour, where forests of British shipmasts are seen along the shore, with Orleans Island a-head. Lumber coves abound here. The grim and powerful batteries, where all the ingenuity of military skill has been exhausted to produce another Gibraltar, are seen on the left.

Two o'clock, P.M.--We sojourned at Payne's Hotel. He is an Uxbridge man, and most attentive. We took a carriage to Montmorence Falls, and were much pleased. Straggling, snow-white cottages abound here for miles. Quebec, lat. 46° 59' 15"; long. 71° 13'.

I may here observe, that Lower Canada, embracing and including Montreal to the Gulf, about 400 miles down, has a population of from 600,000 to 700,000: Quebec and its suburbs has about 30,000. The vessels resorting to this port are about 1000 during the short season of five months. Quebec is situated on the north-west side of the St. Lawrence, with the River St. Charles on the north. The volume and depth of the St. Lawrence is unequalled: it moves with a speed of three or four miles an hour. The oceanic influence is great. To-day it is 30° below zero, and in the summer it is sometimes 100° above (Fahrenheit's scale).

We returned to the Plains of Abraham, where Wolfe fell, and a paltry monument is erected. This is a fine view. Near this is the cove where General Wolfe and the British troops crept and scrambled up to the summit of the heights, which resulted in the defeat of Montcalm in 1759, and the prostration of French power in Canada.

_Monday_ morning.--Attended to business till one. Then took a drive to see the Indian village of Lorette. The squaws are not to my mind, although admired by others. The men get their living by hunting racoons, &c. They make beautiful work, some of which we bought, and returned. I had a beautiful drive on the St. Foy Road; quite in the English style--both houses, fields, gardens, and stables; decidedly the prettiest drive since I left England. I observed all the windows were double, and double doors, as the snow remains on the ground for six months together. To the Exchange and Library, where we had free access. The inclined plane leading to the citadel is 500 feet. On the top of the bastion is a covered way and gravel walk, with cannon pointing in every direction. Here is a fine view of the harbour and surrounding panorama. Within the citadel are the magazines, armoury, storehouses, &c., and the messrooms and barracks for the officers, covered with tin. This fortress combines every invention of science and precaution of art that consummate skill and ingenuity could suggest, for the protection and security of the city and garrison; and I should say the D---l could not force it. The area of the space and works within is forty acres. The fortifications are continued all round the upper town, in bastions and solid masonry, and ramparts from 25 to 30 feet high, and of equal thickness, bristling with heavy cannon. There is a beautiful esplanade, or public promenade, which is much frequented. The guard are very strict, owing to Americans prying about very suspiciously at times.

_Tuesday_ morning.--Finished my business satisfactorily. We visited the old Parliament-house, now a library and museum. There is also the French Roman Catholic cathedral in the Marketplace, and the English cathedral. The monument to Wolfe and Montcalm, the most noble general France ever had,--

Mortem virtus communem;
Famam historia;
Monumentum posteritas dedit.

or--

Valour gave a common death;
History a common fame;
Posterity a common monument.

is situated on the west side of Des Carriere's-street, leading from the Place d'Armes to the glacis of Cape Diamond. In front is a broad walk overlooking the Castle-gardens, the harbour, and the shore of Orleans. We had not time to visit the Chaudiere Falls, but took the fine steamer _Montreal_, and found ourselves at Montreal at seven on Wednesday morning, where we sojourned Tetue's Hotel, being sickened of the Exchange, at as they wanted to rob us. Attended to business all day, and had Mr. Kidson (Glasgow), Mr. Redpath, Mr. Hall, Mr. Easton, and Mr. A. M'Farlane to dinner.

_Thursday._--At business all day. Rained incessantly. Dined with Mr. Geddes, who treated me like a prince. He has a nice wife and an amiable family. Supped and spent the evening with Mr. and Mrs. Leeming, and appointed him our agent for the retail trade. Home, and to bed, and had a good night's rest.

_Friday._--Rained incessantly. Found the benefit of my new rig-out of flannel and India-rubber boots. Visited the House of Assembly. The Speaker, my kind friend Mr. Cuvillier, had given me an order. He has £1000 a year, and the representatives two dollars a day. The Legislative Council Chamber is worth seeing. I spent the evening with Mr. Rickards. I finished up the most satisfactory business I had done in any town since I left home. Montreal is very flourishing--the metropolis of Canada--and will double its population, now 50,000, ere long, if Sir Charles Metcalfe is supported; but the French Canadians, and the Irish, who abound, led by their priests, are brewing dissatisfaction and discord. His councillors have just resigned, and a general election is taking place. May he succeed is my earnest wish!

_Saturday_, 6th.--We left Montreal at twelve at noon per stage to Lachine. We passed the mountains and Sir C. Metcalfe's private house on the road. We took a steamer (the _Chieftain_) here to Dickenson's Landing, thirty-eight miles. We passed on the left, at starting, an Indian village, called Cachnawago, where the Ojibbeway tribe live. We saw several in their canoes. On the left, just before we landed, we saw the Beauharnois Canal, of E.G. Wakefield notoriety. He must either have been bought, or, if not, he certainly must have been a fool to allow the canal to be cut on the American side of the St. Lawrence. The Yankees are thirsting for British blood; and, should they be successful in Canada, this costly canal goes. We now took stage for sixteen miles, on a planked road, and with a first-rate team. On the left were the rapids of the St. Lawrence, or Cascades. I would not have believed had I not seen a small steamer, drawing about four feet of water, going down at an awful rate. I expected every minute it would have been dashed to atoms. How they escape, eight or ten a day, as they go up the canal and return that day, is astonishing. This is the most incredible sight I have witnessed. Roebuck, the Member for Bath, was born here. On arriving at Chateau-du-Luc we got on board a very fine boat, the _Highlander_, Captain Stearns--a fine fellow. After proceeding forty-one miles, we reached the Cornwall Canal, where we were much impeded by seven locks. This splendid canal, the finest in the world, is one hundred feet wide, and the locks fifty-two: it is twelve miles long, and about fourteen feet deep. We now pass from Lower to Upper Canada, direct from east to west; and about six miles forward we find the State of New York on the left. About thirty miles farther we call at Ogdensburgh, on the American side, and Prescott right opposite, where the windmill stands dilapidated from the skirmish the patriots had here, when the English demolished the lot. We called at Maitland for wood, and thence to Brockville, and glided up the Thousand Islands: there really are a thousand islands between here and Kingston. The foliage on the trees was grand--all colours. It passed all description; and the trees actually grow out of the rocks with which all the islands are covered. About ten miles from Kingston, on one of the islands, lives the notorious Bill Johnston, the patriot. We arrived at Kingston at four P.M., 216 miles in twenty-eight hours.

_Sunday._--Sojourned at Lambton-house for the sake of its name, and walked about this very poor town. It is a straggling place. The late Government-house is neither elegant nor commodious, and is now a Sunday-school: still it is the only house of any importance in the neighbourhood. We walked down to a spring of mineral water, resembling Harrogate, and one spring much stronger--kept by a hearty couple, Bone and his wife, from Plymouth. They propose getting a large hotel built by next year, to vie with Saratoga. I wish them success. They were very kind. Mr. King came and spent the evening with me.

_Monday._--Found the tradesmen of the right sort: still their operations are confined. They bitterly complain, and I think _justly_, of Lord Stanley removing the seat of government. Rents are reduced half, and many houses are standing empty, and are likely to remain so. Many had built and enlarged their premises, through the assurance of Sir C. Metcalfe that the Government would not be removed. Perhaps it was not his fault: his councillors became, or rather wished to become, his masters; and the removal took place during the illness of Sir C. Bagot. There is a faction in these provinces who will bring about rebellion and an outbreak worse than those of 1837 and 1838. I hope I may be deceived. One thing is certain, the Governor will not get a majority, he having dissolved his Parliament; and if he continues to govern it must be with his Council, without representatives. My warm-hearted Herefordshire friend, Mr. Wilson, drove me to see the gaol, which is well and wisely governed, and excellently regulated in every respect. The men are employed as shoemakers, ropemakers, blacksmiths, tailors, carpenters, and stonecutters, and are building the prison, which is far advanced. The net profits the last year were £3000, after paying all expenses. The female prisoners are occupied in needlework. Among them was a beautiful girl of twenty, who had been there nearly three years. She acted as bearer of secret despatches for the self-styled patriots on Navy Island during the Canadian insurrection; sometimes dressed as a girl, and carrying them in her stays; sometimes attired as a boy, and secreting them in the lining of her hat. In the latter character she always rode as a boy. She could govern any horse that any man could ride, and could drive four in hand with the best whip in those parts. Setting forth on one of her patriotic missions, she appropriated to herself the first horse she could lay her hands on; and this offence had brought her where I saw her. She had a lovely face, though there was a lurking devil in her bright eye. I dined with my friend, and went on board the steamer _Princess Royal_, for Toronto, at eight.

_Tuesday_ morning, six o'clock.--We had arrived at Coburg, a thriving town on Lake Ontario, where I left letters for the importers of lace. It is a rising town of 3000 inhabitants, and will soon rank high in Upper Canada. We passed Port Hope, another rising town; and on the right Bondhead and Windsor. Lake Ontario is a wonder indeed--216 miles long, and 90 miles wide--a truly magnificent sheet of water, very rough at times. We arrived at Stone's Hotel, Toronto, at three o'clock, P.M. The country round is flat, and bare of scenic interest; but the town itself is full of life, motion, bustle, and business. The streets are well paved and lighted with gas--the only place in Canada, except Montreal, where gas is introduced; the houses large and good; the shops excellent--many of them may vie with the best shops in thriving country-towns in England. There are a handsome church, courthouse, and public offices, and many commodious private residences. It is matter of regret that here, too, political differences run high. I visited the Reform Association, where the noted Baldwin was holding forth, and preaching sedition under pretence of abusing the Governor-General. This body are spreading discord, by their branches, all through Canada: where it will end is to be seen. I saw all the importers, and retired to rest tired, at eleven o'clock.

Population of Toronto, 20,000.

_Wednesday._--This town must rise in commerce, and must stand second to Montreal. They are active business men, and have lots of back-country to depend upon--good land, and the farmers of the old Dutch sort. The women must necessarily wear more clothes than in England, in consequence of the climate. At two o'clock I took the _Eclipse_ mail-boat, Captain John Gordon, from Aberdeen; and let me observe, all these captains of steamers here are fine fellows, not very well paid--salary not more than £300 a year. We were again on Lake Ontario, and passed Port Credit, Oakville, and Wellington-square on the right: healthy towns, but small. The farmers here all reserve a good portion of wood for fire, and rails and planks for domestic purposes. At the bottom of the lake we passed through a short canal into Burlington Bay--a beautiful sheet of water; and arrived at Hamilton, at the terminus of the navigation.

_Thursday_ morning.--Hamilton is a rising new town with about 6000 inhabitants. It has many advantages, and must increase rapidly. There is the store of J. Buchanan and Co., where my friend Mr. Harris is a partner, as large as 5, Bow-churchyard, and they have about fifty branches. I found them all busy. I attended a cattle-show which pleased me much: some very fine cattle competed for the different prizes. There is a good walk above the town which, commands a fine view of the distant country. I walked to Dunedern, the mansion of Sir Allan M'Nab, who made such a formidable stand for the constitution against the rebels L.J. Papineau, Lafontaine, and Baldwin.

_Friday._--Returned by the same steamer to Toronto, and finished up my business satisfactorily. Took a walk with Mr. Fisken to see the new college, which is at a stand-still for want of funds, and saw the Government observatory; and then visited the stone prison, which I did not like, as there is no work for the prisoners--all lying idly about--great contrast to Kingston. The town all in confusion nominating the candidates. In Toronto all the footpaths are planked with wood, which is very comfortable to walk upon.

_Saturday._--Took a steamer at seven, A.M., for Niagara. Arrived at that town, of 1800 inhabitants, about twelve. A small place, of 3000 inhabitants, on the left, is Young's-town, on the American side, where their flag was flying in opposition to our union-jack. There is a fort at both places. Seven miles farther up the Niagara river, which we were now in, having left Ontario, we landed at Queenstown, a small place right opposite Lewistown, U.S. Here Brock's monument was erected and blown up. We then took rail seven miles, passed Drummondsville battle-ground, and arrived at Clifton-house.

THE FALLS.

Oh my God! how I was stunned and unable to comprehend the vastness of the scene! It was not until I reached Table Rock, and looked upon the fall of bright green water, that it came upon me in its full might and majesty. Niagara was at once stamped upon my heart an image of beauty, to remain there changeless and indelible until it ceases to beat. It is overpowering to think that the outpourings of lakes Superior, Huron, Erie, Michigan, and St. Clare, covering a surface of 150,000 square miles, all roll down this 157 feet fall, with, it is said, sixteen times the power, deducting one-third for waste, of all the water-power used in Great Britain. I wandered to and fro, and saw the cataracts from all points of view. At the Great Horseshoe is decidedly the best view, near Table Rock: you can see the rapids approaching the verge as if gathering strength to take the giant leap. When the sun shines the rainbow appears like molten gold upon the spray; and when the day is gloomy it crumbles away like snow, or like the front of a great chalk cliff. But always does the mighty stream appear to die as it comes down. The rise of spray is great at times. But enough.

_Sunday_ morning, very early, I went down a spiral staircase leading to the foot of the Horseshoe Fall, where I could have passed 153 feet behind the falling sheet, but I soon got wet, and returned. Table Rock projects out many feet above this place, and will come down ere long, as it is much cracked. I then visited an Episcopal church at Drummondsville, where the desperate battle was fought--a beautiful village above the Falls--and heard a good sermon. Returned to Clifton-house, and ascended to the promenade on the top, which is very commanding. After dinner, with Mr. Parker, from the Caledonia Springs, on the Ottaway River--with whom, and his lovely daughter, I had travelled from Toronto--I started by the ferry-boat for the American side. This gave me another fine view, as we went close under them. On landing at the other side, we had to ascend a ladder about 200 feet high. We ordered a carriage at the Cataract Hotel, and drove to the whirlpool, four miles down the Rapids. This is an awful place, and indescribable. We then walked over Bath Island and Iris (or Goat) Island: here again is a splendid view. We saw Gull Island, where man has never been; and in the Rapids we saw the hull of the ship Detroit, fitted up in 1841 for the purpose of being sent over the Falls, but she went to pieces before she got over the Rapids. It got dark, and descending those long stairs, and crossing the Niagara River, was not to my mind. However, we landed safe. Tired, and to bed.

_Monday_ morning.--Visited Mr. Barnett's Museum. Bought some sticks peculiar to Niagara, and Indian curiosities; and looked into the large camera obscura, which reproduced every sight at the Falls. Ascertained from Mr. B. that the Canada Fall is half a mile in circumference, and the American a quarter of a mile. The depth of the water on the verge of the Horseshoe Fall is twenty feet. The Falls can be heard from five to twenty miles, according to wind and atmosphere: it is said they have been heard at Toronto, forty miles. The quantity of water supposed to go over the Falls in one hour is 102,093,750 tuns. I must now take my leave of the Falls with regret, as my friend Mr. Stephenson called, and drove me to see a Canadian farmer. I was much pleased with his farm and husbandry, and his domestic fireside. He makes £50 a year by his bees, and grows almost everything that the family eats. We then drove to the burning springs in the Niagara River, and over to Chippeway, where Mr. S. has a saw-mill, of twenty-horse power, that will cut up 11,000 superficial feet of wood a day. Chippeway has 700 inhabitants. We left it per steamer, and saw the Rapids to great advantage before they dashed over the Falls. Here, to the right, is Navy Island, of 304 acres, which was occupied by Mackenzie, Van Ransselaer, and about 400 Patriots, in 1837-8, for five weeks. Their object was to collect recruits to revolutionize Canada. On the American shore, on the left, is Schlosser landing and wharf, where the _Caroline_ was moored when Capt. Drew, the commander of a squadron of five steamers, cut her out, towed her into the stream, set fire to her, and sent her over the Falls blazing. The patriots fled after this. M'Leod was tried by the Americans, and acquitted. Opposite Navy Island was the place where poor Usher lived that was shot by two Yankees, who suspected he knew of the _Caroline_ affair. About thirty miles up the Niagara River we got into Lake Erie, 300 miles long; and on the right (Canada side) is the Welland Canal, which connects Lake Erie and Lake Ontario, a splendid undertaking by Government, 32 miles long. Here you can see the mist that is caused, or spray rising from the chasm of the Falls, at this distance. On the left is the Erie Canal, which conveys all traffic to and from New York; and a little farther we arrive in the busy, bustling harbour of Buffalo, whence ships and steamers sail for all parts of the far West and Southern states. We drove to the United States Hotel, and to bed.

Population of Buffalo, 25,000.

_Tuesday_, the 15th.--This is the queen of the lake cities, admirably situated at the outlet of Lake Erie, and the head of the Niagara River. All produce and traffic of every description for the Western country must go here, to be reshipped from the canal boats. The Erie Canal is eighty feet wide, and thirteen deep. The streets are broad, and intersect at right angles. The buildings are in general decent--some are splendid: the stores recently erected are four and five stories high; and, strange to say, not a single dry-goods importer in the town. We drove round the neighbourhood, and examined a poor-house of paupers and lunatics. I left at four, East for Rochester--population, 23,000: 75 miles; and Auburn, 78 farther--population, 7000. Visited the New York State Prison, the largest in the world: they make here, as at Kingston, every description of article: about 800 convicts at work daily. Lett, who blew up Brock's monument, is here: I saw him daily. I was really more pleased here than at any previous sight. The discipline, cleanliness, and behaviour were astonishing. At twelve they marched to dinner in Indian files, with a simultaneous lock-step, eyes to their overseer, head erect. The muffled bell strikes at four, and labour is suspended. I bought some very good cutlery manufactured by the convicts. Auburn is two miles from Lake Cuyaga. Left here at two for Syracuse--26 miles: population, 8000. Thence to Utica--53 miles: population, 14,000. Broke down on the road, and, detained three hours, was obliged to stop till four in the morning. Thence for Schenectady--78 miles: population, 5000; and to Albany--16 miles (326 miles). The most tedious journey I ever had in my life. I had a long talk on the way with a very intelligent farmer, who told me the best breed of sheep they get from England are called esquirol or merino; mugs do not answer; and that best parts of mutton were sold at 3 cents per lb. Cattle, the short-horned, they imported, and the meat sold at 2-1/2 cents; pork, 4 cents; cheese, 6-1/2 cents; and butter, 11 cents. They are far behind us in horses. In Long Island and Rhode Island they are improving the breed. Arrived at Albany at eleven, A.M. Found there were no lace-importers here--all buy in New York. Saw the State-house--a noble building, where the representatives and state senators deliberate. Also was shown over the Government buildings for the management of the state; and took my departure on board the _Knickerbocker_, a new steamer, most magnificently fitted up, 325 feet long, and painted in the most superb style. We had about 700 passengers, and plenty of berths for all. Arrived at the Globe Hotel at seven.

_Friday_ morning.--A regular wet day. Got a bad cold. Made several calls. Visited the American Institution or Exposition in the evening, where all descriptions of domestic manufacture, implements, &c., are exposed for inspection and prizes: also cattle, horses, and a ploughing match: 30,000 people had attended during the week. Such expositions are very desirable. Spent the evening with Mr. and Mrs. Green, and retired to rest at eleven.

_Saturday_, the 19th.--No mail, although fifteen days out. Took leave of all customers, finished my business, and satisfied myself that there are not more than six lace-importers in New York whom I would trust, most of whom we shall have arranged with Mr. S. Pickersgill for our future journey. Visited Barnham Museum, the owner of Tom Thumb; and found out he is an English-bred boy, and no American giant. Spent a quiet evening with Mr. and Mrs. Pearce. Retired to bed early: could not sleep for reflecting.

_Sunday_ morning.--No mail. Most anxious for my despatches. Dr. Keen called, and had a walk. Paid a visit to Dr. Dewey's handsome Unitarian chapel, and heard an excellent sermon. Spent an hour more with Dr. Keen, and dined with W.C. Pickersgill, Esq., our banker, a most intelligent, well-informed man. He is the partner of Fielding Brothers, Liverpool, and married Miss Riggs of Baltimore. Took tea and spent the evening with A.T. Stewart and his wife, my fellow-passengers out, and first-rate people; and retired to my bedroom to read the Bible at nine.

_Monday._--A most unpleasant journey. Took the Philadelphia rail to Elizabethtown. Thence to Sommerville, and to Clover-hill per waggon, in search of Mr. D----'s brother. Arrived at three o'clock, and found he was from home: waited at a farmhouse till ten, when he arrived, and I soon found out that the American atmosphere had contaminated him. A regular thief!--would not pay his brothers (B---- and D----) a cent out of £300 he owes them. Although I was miserable both in body and mind, I benefited by what I saw at this humble place. I saw happiness without ostentation: a good husband and amiable wife. They strove to make me comfortable. I had mush and milk for supper, lapped myself up in a blanket, and laid down till five in the morning. Moses M. Bateman drove me back 16 miles, and I returned to New York (70 miles) after a fruitless journey.

_Tuesday._--Found my letters per _Acadia_: they gave me much domestic gratification. Two I had from my wife, and one from Bow Churchyard. These were in answer to my first despatches. I dined and spent a quiet evening with Mr. and Mrs. Pearce and Mr. Flanden, and retired to bed early.

_Wednesday._--A great Clay and Frelinghuysen day. A grand procession of the Whigs of many thousands. Mr. Pearce and I visited the Creton Aqueduct for supplying New York with water. It is 1826 feet long, and 836 feet wide, and covers 35 acres. It comes down a tunnel of 35 miles, part of which distance is an aqueduct. We walked to the East River and Astoria, and returned to meet Mr. Blane, Mr. Brough, Mr. C. Vyse, and Mr. Palin, whom I had asked to dine with me at five. We had one of Mr. Blankard's best dinners, and spent a pleasant evening: were joined by Dr. Keen and Mr. Green. Brough sang us three excellent songs. They left at ten; and I to bed.

_Thursday._--I finally finished my mission with Mr. Pearce most satisfactorily. Visited Mr. Bach, distiller, Brooklyn--my first time there. Dined with C. Vyse, at Dalmonico's. Met Mr. Blane, Palin, and Bund. A most sumptuous dinner: would cost at least 50 dollars. Left at nine, and spent my last evening at New York with Mr. and Mrs. Pearce. Paid my bill at the Globe, 49 dollars, 75 cents for the week; and to bed. Could not sleep: a restless, disagreeable night.

_Friday._--Started at eight per Long Island Rail-way to Boston, Brooklyn, and Greenport, ninety-five miles; per rail thence to Stonington, thirty-two miles; per steamer in the Bay Sounds thence to Providence--a town of 15,000 inhabitants, where H.W. Doe is confined; and to Boston, forty-four miles: in all 218 in ten hours--the quickest travelling I have had; and proceeded to the Tremont-house. Read the English papers; and saw the account of my old friend T. Sidney being made sheriff and alderman in the same week, with the likelihood of his being Sir Thomas before I return. "Some men are born great, and others have greatness thrust upon them."

Population of Boston, 50,000.

_Saturday_ morning.--I visited the Custom-house, by previous arrangement, to clear some pattern-cards. I could not help being strongly impressed with the contrast their Custom-house presented, when compared with some I could mention, and the attention, politeness, and good-humour with which its officers discharged their duties. They saw the force of my arguments at once, and let me have the books free of duty; and at their particular request I promised the Custom-house examiners one. They offered me any amount of money for it, which I declined to take. They are building a new Custom-house upon a large scale. The air here is very piercing--easterly winds prevail a great deal. The houses are bright, and have a gay appearance, the signboards are painted in such gaudy colours; the gilded letters are so very golden; the bricks so very red; the blinds and area-railings so very green; the plates upon the street-doors so marvellously bright and twinkling--and all so slight and unsubstantial in appearance. The suburbs are, if possible, more unsubstantial-looking than the city. The city is a beautiful one, and cannot fail to impress all strangers very favourably. The State-house is built upon the summit of a hill, which rises gradually by a steep ascent almost from the water's edge--a fine building, where all government operations are carried on, as at Albany, and elsewhere in the different states. From the top there is a charming panoramic view of the whole town and neighbourhood. In front is a green inclosure called the Common, a great benefit to the town. The docks are not very good: a great many ships lay over at East Boston. The Exchange is a very fine building, where the merchants congregate; but in fair weather a great deal of business is done in the streets. I wrote about thirty circulars to St. John's and Halifax, instead of going myself; and retired to rest at eleven.

_Sunday_ morning, October 27th.--Attended the Trinity church, and heard a most impressive sermon by Bishop Eastburn, Ephesians iv. 17: "This I say therefore, and testify in the Lord, that ye henceforth walk not as other Gentiles walk, in the vanity of their minds." A wet, nasty day; read the Bible till dinner-time; thence to St. Paul's church to hear Dr. Vinton: he spoke so Yankee-like, I could not understand him at the distance I was. Very handsome churches they have here. Took a long walk all round the city; admired the neat houses they are building in all directions; and felt that the State of Massachusetts stood the highest in my estimation of any of the states I had yet visited. Spent the evening with Mr. Schofield, of Henry and Co.'s, Manchester--the most decided man of business I had met with for many a long day. It had been previously arranged that he should carry our patterns through all the states and Canada.

_Monday_ morning.--Took a regular turn through amongst the importers of lace, and was thunderstruck at the enormous quantity of highly-respectable importers, certainly far exceeding New York and Philadelphia. They are first-rate business men: _no auctions_, which I detest: no overstocks, which will be the ruin of New York; well assorted, and in good condition. In fact, I felt as if I had been in an English town, for the men of business are more like English than Americans. They nearly all import--at least thirty first-rate men import--our goods. I experienced a great deal of civility from Mr. W. Appleton, and Mr. Ward, Barings' agent; and altogether was much pleased with my reception. Had not Mr. Schofield undertaken to receive our orders, I could have done a very large trade. I may here observe, the Tremont is one of the best houses in the states in every respect. Buckwheat cakes to breakfast; and they use the incredibly large quantity of 45 tons of butter per year.

_Tuesday_ morning, the 29th.--A regular wet day; rained incessantly. Called upon all the lace-importers, and found them thorough men of business--very prompt: came to an understanding with nearly all that they would order through Mr. Schofield, of Henry and Co.'s, Manchester.

_Wednesday_ morning.--Received my despatches per _Great Western_, and proceeded to Lowell per rail. I forget whether I described an American railroad before. There are no first and second class carriages, as with us, but gentlemen's cars and ladies' cars; and, as a black man never travels with a white one, there is a negro car. Each car holds from thirty to fifty. There is a stove blazing hot. Except where a branch-road joins the main one, there is seldom more than one track of rails. They rush across the turnpike-road, where there is no gate, no policeman, no signal. There is painted up, "When the bell rings, look out for the locomotive." I was met at Lowell by my fellow-passenger in the _Western_, Royal Southwick, intimately connected with the factories there. The first we visited was a cotton cloth and drill factory, where they make about 50,000 yards per day, all by water-power (the Merrimack), and have a couple of hundred girls employed. The good order and clean appearance of both factory and girls contrasted greatly with both in Lancashire. There are twenty-five mills here. We then visited a carpet manufactory, by machinery that reduces labour 75 per cent., and where some of the many girls employed make a dollar a-day. There is no manufactory like this in the world: there is a patent taken out by E.B. Bigelow to protect the carpet power-loom manufactory. They must be making money fast here. We then visited a cloth manufactory upon a large scale, where they employ about 800 hands; and the excellency of the cloth surprized me. They will have no occasion for English cloths much longer. All by water-power. The last place was a large cylinder print-works, where they produce some first-rate goods, and, I think, as cheap as ours. There are several factories in Lowell, each of which they call a corporation, as they are chartered. They employ about 8000 girls, who make 3-1/2 dollars per week, or 14 s. Their neat, clean, and healthy appearance pleased me much: they are well dressed; and, meeting them out, you would take them to be of a higher grade. They pay 1-1/2 dollar per week for lodgings, which are situated near, and belong to the different corporations. They are strictly moral and virtuous, and all contribute to a monthly publication called "The Lowell Offering," well worth reading. I saw the principal editors (young ladies), and ordered it for next year. The rooms in which they work are well arranged; and green plants are trained to shade the glass windows. The laws of the state forbid their working more than nine months in the year, and require that they shall be educated during the other three. There is a hospital or boarding-house for the sick, at 3 dollars per week: they do not often require its assistance, for in 1841 they had 100,000 dollars in the savings-bank. We visited the Mechanics' Reading-room--a large building, with papers from all parts.

The population of Lowell is 25,000; one of the most rising towns in the states. There are also Fall River, Taunton, Manchester, Great Falls, Dover, New Hampshire--all rising manufacturing places. In New England state there is no coal, which is a great drawback. I returned to Boston, and spent the evening with some friends.

_Thursday._--Mr. Hanson drove me to Cambridge, to see the Universities. This is a clean, well-built town, with 8000 or 9000 inhabitants. The expense of education is 300 dollars; and if that cannot be paid, the students are educated free, subject to instructing others a little. There is no barrier here to the poorest man's son becoming the President, as free-schools abound. We then drove to Mount Auburn, a cemetery delightfully situated about five miles from Boston. They pay 4000 dollars for a lot for a family burying-place. Here some eminent men are interred. There are some beautiful walks over this one-hundred-acres plot of ground. We then drove round by Charlestown, a place of 10,000 inhabitants, where the Bostonians reside, well-situated; and so on to Bunker-hill Monument, where the battle was fought in 1775, when General James Warren fell: it is a very substantial mark of Jonathan conquering John. Bull. I then visited the Massachusetts State-house: the Congress-house and Representatives are very commodious. I ascended the top, which gives a most commanding view of the whole city: it was very clear, and the view was most extensive. Like New York, it is upon an island, surrounded (except a few yards) with the River Charles and the Ocean. Home to dinner, and gave my friends T. Cochrane and Mr. Schofield two bottles of champagne, it being my last day in the States. We then proceeded to Perkins's Institution for the Blind, managed by my fellow-passenger, Dr. Howe. We saw the gifted Laura Bridgman, whose biography I give elsewhere.[A] She is an interesting-looking girl, fifteen years old, deaf, dumb, blind, and no smell: still Providence makes her contented and happy: she can read and write, and understand geography with her fingers, and is blessed with the knowledge of Divine grace. It was truly interesting and gratifying to see the blind girls read and write and work, all so clean and neat in their persons, and apparently happy. Also the boys are instructed in a similar way, and, when ready, put out to some trade; and, if no master can be found, they instruct them in the institution to make mattresses, chair-bottoms, &c., several of whom I saw working. We then visited South Boston State Hospital for the Insane, at the head of which is Dr. Stedman, who conducts it admirably on the enlightened principles of conciliation and kindness, and evinces a confidence and apparent trust even in mad people. Each ward in this institution is shaped like a long gallery or hall; and, as we walked along, the patients flocked round us unrestrained, with all sorts of stories. I had ten minutes' talk with an elderly lady, who had a great many scraps of finery, of gauze, &c., which gave her a strange appearance: she fancied she was the hostess of the mansion. Another I talked to said she was Queen of the States. Another poor fellow, gentlemanly in appearance, said it was a hard run between him and Prince Albert who should have the Queen of England. He had written and received several letters from her. I discovered they had all some weak point, and the doctor gave me the cue. I felt quite at ease amongst them: nearly all are unrestrained; and, strange to say, they never talk to each other, or molest each other in any way. We then visited the House of Correction for the State, where about three-fourths of the expenses are paid by the prisoners' industry. It is a well-managed prison, with strict discipline: no conversation allowed, and all kept at work, both men and women: the latter are very bad to manage. Comfort and cleanliness are very apparent. We then visited the Orphan Asylum and House of Reformation for young offenders, and for neglected and indigent boys who have committed no crimes, but perhaps soon would if they were not taken from the hungry streets and sent here: this is called the Boylston School. There is the House of Industry for old, helpless paupers: these words are painted on the walls--"Self-government, quietude, and peace are blessings." This was a clean, neat place, with a plant or two on the window-sill, a row of crockery upon the shelf, or small display of coloured prints upon the whitewashed wall. We have no such sights in our unions.

[Footnote A: See Appendix.]

I left South Boston much gratified with all I had seen; but pleasure must have an alloy. My companion drove up against a cart in the dark, broke both shafts, the horse kicked the vehicle all to pieces, and how we escaped is wonderful. I got my knee bruised, and that was all. I retired to rest, grateful to Providence for my narrow escape.

_Friday, and last day in America._--Saw the famed Dr. Channing's Unitarian chapel; and witnessed such a demonstration the previous night, with at least 10,000 boys, non-electors, parading the streets with torches, crying "Clay, of Ashland, near Lexington, Kentucky!" I really feel that I am leaving Boston with regret: I never was more pleased with any town, both in a business and social point of view. I have many kind and intelligent friends that I shall leave with regret. The Bostonians are more English in idea, smart to a degree, and well situated for commerce. The town and suburbs abound with charitable institutions of every description; and every article of living is half the price it is in England. I visited Famenil Hall, the oldest building in the town, and famed in American history.

In conclusion, my feelings prompt me to acknowledge, with a deep sense of gratitude to Messrs. Overend and Gurney, the very sympathetic and high-character letter they gave me to Messrs. Prime, Ward, and King, of New York, as I had taken the journey to recruit my health. From that letter emanated others to every town I visited, which at once placed me in communication with the most intelligent of men. I am further bound to add, contrary to the general opinion formed in England, that I met with the most open, frank, communicative people I ever came in contact with; and further I am bound to add, I frequently had occasion to blush for my own ignorance, both about Europe and America. To use a vulgar expression, they are a wide-awake people. Their cheap publications, their thirst for knowledge, and their naturally quick perceptions, place them above the level in society. That America must rise, and become a great country, is my earnest wish and belief. I do not like to individualize, but I feel an inward gratitude to many kind and dear friends whom T made in my short sojourn, whose study it was to make me happy, and my journey a pleasing one.

At one o'clock I paid my bill, and proceeded to East Boston, on board the _Acadia_; and set sail exactly at two o'clock, P.M., for England, with 25 passengers.

On leaving the harbour, on the right, we passed several small islands, and the Liverpool light and Dorchester heights, where the Orphan Asylum is situated on a lofty eminence. On the left we passed Lynn and Salem, and steamed it along in good style during the night.

_Saturday_ morning, the _2nd November_.--Spoke the _Hibernia_ at eight o'clock, A.M.: about 130 passengers, all on deck, with whom we exchanged cheers as she passed. I was struck with the warlike appearance she had: whether it has been contemplated or not, I discovered that all these mailsteamers are admirably adapted for war: all they require are port-holes for cannon. They are made to Admiralty order, and cost £60,000 each. At six P.M. we passed the Devil's Limb, a rock close by Seal Island, where the _Colombia_ was lost. The coast is dangerous between Boston and Halifax. The captain was up both nights.

_Sunday_ morning, at seven.--I was aroused by the discharge of a brace of cannon, and on coming on deck I found we were in Halifax harbour. Population of this place is 20,000. Governed by Lord Falkland. Nova Scotia is about 300 miles in circumference. Staple of the town, fish: I should have thought dogs, for I saw some hundreds. It is a mean-looking town: nearly all wood houses: a very good fort and government-house. St. John's, New Brunswick, is 250 miles from here: population, 35,000: governed by Sir W. Colebrooke: staple, timber and deals, and whale-fishing. I intended visiting St. John's, but had not time. It was fortunate, as I should have been left behind. Owing to some breakdown, the mail did not arrive in Halifax in time for us: neither did the Quebec mail, by the Gulf of St. Lawrence, from Quebec, _viâ_ Picton, 120 miles from Halifax, arrive; and, because Captain Harrison would not wait for these mails, the Governor would not allow him the Halifax: so we started at half-past ten, leaving them all behind. At Halifax I made the acquaintance of Mr. Howe, late of the Executive Council, and Collector of Excise, which he resigned: salary, £700 a year. He is now editor of the Nova Scotia newspaper. I shall not forget his politeness, although he is a red-hot Radical. They send whalers from Halifax to the South Seas. Opposite Halifax is Dartmouth, a town of 15,000 inhabitants, whence they send plaster and rum to the States. We passed St. George's Island, a battery, and the Thumb Cap, where the _Tribune_ was lost. We also passed the Curzon and Devil's Island Beacon, and were much gratified by passing a fleet of men-of-war, the largest of which, the _Illustrious_, 74 guns, 700 hands, was in full sail, with a band of music playing and singing "_Home, sweet home_," which went to my very soul. They were bound for Bermuda, West India Islands. Their Admiral, Sir C. Adam, was on board, with sixteen officers. At five P.M. we were out of sight of land, steaming it along at ten knots.

PASSAGE HOME PER ACADIA.

Nov. 1st.--Light westerly winds, with fine clear weather. All sails set.

Lat. 42° 57'; Long. 66° 57' 87".