Chapter I: Preface

In preparing this volume for the press, I have been under the greatest obligations to Captain P. P. King, R. N., an officer whose researches have added so much to the geography of Australia. This gentleman has not only corrected my manuscript, but has added notes, the value of which will be appreciated by all who consider the opportunities he has had of obtaining the most correct information upon these subjects, during his surveys of the coasts parallel to my track.

To S. A. Perry, Esq., Deputy Surveyor General, I am extremely indebted for the assiduous labour he has bestowed in draughting my map. I shall ever remember the friendly interest he expressed, and the courteous attention with which he listened to the details of my journey.

From the Rev. W. B. Clarke, in addition to the unvaried kindness he has evinced towards me since my arrival in Australia, I have received every assistance which his high scientific acquirements enabled him to give.

I take this opportunity of publicly expressing my most sincere thanks to these gentlemen, for the generous assistance they have afforded me on this occasion, and for the warm interest which they have been kind enough to take in the success of my approaching enterprise.

LUDWIG LEICHIJARDT. SYDNEY, September 29th, 1846.

CONTENTS

INTRODUCTION

CHAPTER I LEAVE THE LAST STATION--FOSSIL REMAINS--DARLING DOWNS--ENTER
THE WILDERNESS--WATERLOO PLAINS--THE CONDAMINE--HEAVY
RAINS--CHARLEY'S MISCONDUCT--MURPHY AND CALEB LOST--KENT'S
LAGOON--COAL--MURPHY AND CALEB FOUND AGAIN.

CHAPTER II PARTY REDUCED BY THE RETURN OF MR. HODGSON AND CALEB--MEET
FRIENDLY NATIVES--NATIVE TOMB--THE DAWSON--VERVAIN
PLAINS--GILBERT'S RANGE--LYND'S RANGE--ROBINSON'S
CREEK--MURPHY'S LAKE--MOUNTAINOUS COUNTRY--EXPEDITION
RANGE--MOUNT NICHOLSON--ALDIS'S PEAK--THE BOYD.

CHAPTER III RUINED CASTLE CREEK--ZAMIA CREEK--BIGGE'S MOUNTAIN--ALLOWANCE
OF FLOUR REDUCED--NATIVES SPEAR A HORSE--CHRISTMAS
RANGES--BROWN'S LAGOONS--THUNDER-STORMS--ALBINIA DOWNS--COMET
CREEK--NATIVE CAMP.

CHAPTER IV SWARMS OF COCKATOOS--ALLOWANCE OF FLOUR FURTHER
REDUCED--NATIVE FAMILY--THE MACKENZIE--COAL--NATIVES SPEAKING
A DIFFERENT IDIOM--MOUNT STEWART--BROWN AND MYSELF MISS THE
WAY BACK TO THE CAMP--FIND OUR PARTY AGAIN, ON THE FOURTH
DAY--NEUMAN'S CREEK--ROPER'S PEAK--CALVERT'S PEAK--GILBERT'S
DOME--GREAT WANT OF WATER.

CHAPTER V DIFFERENCE OF SOIL AS TO MOISTURE--PHILLIPS'S
MOUNTAIN--ALLOWANCE OF FLOUR REDUCED AGAIN--HUGHS'S
CREEK--TOMBSTONE CREEK--CHARLEY AND BROWN BECOME UNRULY--THE
ISAACS--NATIVE WOMEN--COXEN'S PEAK AND RANGE--GEOLOGICAL
CHARACTER--CHARLEY REBELS AGAIN AND LEAVES--BROWN FOLLOWS
HIM--BOTH RETURN PENITENT--VARIATIONS OF THE WEATHER--SKULL
OF NATIVE--FRIENDLY NATIVES VISIT THE CAMP.

CHAPTER VI HEADS OF THE ISAACS--THE SUTTOR--FLINT-ROCK--INDICATIONS OF
WATER--DINNER OF THE NATIVES APPROPRIATED BY US--EASTER
SUNDAY--ALARM OF AN OLD WOMAN--NATIVES SPEAKING A LANGUAGE
ENTIRELY UNKNOWN TO CHARLEY AND BROWN--A BARTER WITH
THEM--MOUNT M'CONNEL.

CHAPTER VII THE BURDEKIN--TRANSITION FROM THE DEPOSITORY TO THE PRIMITIVE
ROCKS--THACKER'S RANGE--WILD FIGS--GEOLOGICAL REMARKS--THE
CLARKE--THE PERRY.

CHAPTER VIII BROWN AND CHARLEY QUARREL--NIGHT WATCH--ROUTINE OF OUR DAILY
LIFE, AND HABITS OF THE MEMBERS OF THE PARTY--MOUNT
LANG--STREAMS OF LAVA--A HORSE BREAKS HIS LEG, IS KILLED AND
EATEN--NATIVE TRIBE--MR. ROPER'S ACCIDENT--WHITSUNDAY--BIG
ANT HILL CREEK--DEPRIVED OF WATER FOR FIFTY HOURS--FRIENDLY
NATIVES--SEPARATION CREEK--THE LYND--PSYCHOLOGICAL EFFECTS
OF A SOJOURN IN THE WILDERNESS--NATIVE CAMP--SALT EXHAUSTED.

CHAPTER IX THE STARRY HEAVENS--SUBSTITUTE FOR COFFEE--SAWFISH--
TWO-STORIED GUNYAS OF THE NATIVES--THE MITCHELL--MURPHY'S
PONY POISONED--GREEN TREE-ANT--NEW BEVERAGE--CROCODILE--
AUDACITY OF KITES--NATIVES NOT FRIENDLY--THE CAMP ATTACKED
AT NIGHT BY THEM--MESSRS. ROPER AND CALVERT WOUNDED,
AND MR. GILBERT KILLED.

CHAPTER X INDICATIONS OF THE NEIGHBOURHOOD OF THE SEA--NATIVES MUCH
MORE NUMEROUS--THE SEA; THE GULF OF CARPENTARIA--THE
STAATEN--A NATIVE INTRUDES INTO THE CAMP--THE VAN DIEMEN--THE
GILBERT--SINGULAR NATIVE HUTS--CARON RIVER--FRIENDLY
NATIVES--THE YAPPAR--MR. CALVERT RECOVERED--MODE OF
ENCAMPMENT--SWARMS OF FLIES--ABUNDANCE OF SALT--NATIVES
FRIENDLY, AND MORE INTELLIGENT.

CHAPTER XI SYSTEMATIC GRASS BURNINGS OF THE NATIVES--NATIVE
CARVING--AUDACITY OF THE NATIVES OVERAWED--THE ALBERT, OR
MAET SUYKER--NATIVE MODE OF MAKING SURE OF A DEAD EMU--
BULLOCK BOGGED; OBLIGED TO KILL IT--NATIVE DEVICE FOR TAKING
EMUS--BEAMES'S BROOK--THE NICHOLSON--RECONNOITRE BY
NIGHT--SMITH'S CREEK--THE MARLOW.

CHAPTER XII HEAPS OF OYSTER-SHELLS--FALSE ALARM OF A NATIVE IN THE
CAMP--TURNER'S CREEK--WENTWORTH'S CREEK--JOURNALS LOST; FOUND
AGAIN--THE VAN ALPHEN--IMPORTANCE OF TEA--CHOICE OF BULLOCKS
FOR AN EXPEDITION--CHOICE OF A DOG--THE CALVERT--THE ABEL
TASMAN--GLUCKING BIRD AGAIN--DISCOVER A MODE OF USING THE
FRUIT OF THE PANDANUS--SEVEN EMU RIVER--CROCODILE--THE
ROBINSON--SHOAL OF PORPOISES--NATIVE METHOD OF PREPARING THE
FRUIT OF THE PANDANUS AND CYCAS FOR FOOD--MR. ROPER
CONVALESCENT--WEAR AND TEAR OF CLOTHES--SUCCEED IN DRESSING
THE SEEDS OF STERCULIA--THE MACARTHUR--FRIENDLY PARLEY WITH
CIRCUMCISED NATIVES--STORE OF TEA EXHAUSTED--MEDICAL PROPERTY
OF THE GREVILLEA DISCOVERED.

CHAPTER XIII CAPE MARIA--OBLIGED TO LEAVE A PORTION OF OUR COLLECTION OF
NATURAL HISTORY--LIMMEN BIGHT RIVER--HABITS OF WATER
BIRDS--NATIVE FISH TRAP--THE FOUR ARCHERS--THE WICKHAM--THE
DOG DIES--IMMENSE NUMBER OF DUCKS AND GEESE--THE ROPER--THREE
HORSES DROWNED--OBLIGED TO LEAVE A PORTION OF MY BOTANICAL
COLLECTION--MORE INTERCOURSE WITH FRIENLDY NATIVES,
CIRCUMCISED--HODGSON'S CREEK--THE WILTON--ANOTHER HORSE
DROWNED--ANXIETY ABOUT OUR CATTLE--AN ATTACK ON THE CAMP
FRUSTRATED--BOILS--BASALT AGAIN--INJURIOUS EFFECTS OF THE
SEEDS OF AN ACACIA.

CHAPTER XIV INTERVIEW WITH A NATIVE--DISTRESSING HEAT--A HORSE STAKED: IT
DIES--MYRIADS OF FLYING-FOXES--MAGNIFICENT VALLEY--FRIENDLY
NATIVES--SHOT EXHAUSTED--INSTINCT OF BULLOCKS--SOUTH
ALLIGATOR RIVER--FRIENDLY NATIVES WITH AN ENGLISH
HANDKERCHIEF, AND ACQUAINTED WITH FIRE-ARMS--THEIR
LANGUAGE--MIRAGE.