Chapter XII: Continuation of the journey in Bootan (1)

The following table affords the result of observations made with the view to determine the relation between temperature and altitude, in these parts.

Difference of Difference of Value in height of
Temperature Elevation 1 degrees of Temperature

Benka and Monass, 13 degrees Fahr. 1,222 feet 94 feet

Benka and Nulka, 4 = 406 = 01-5/10

Benka and Khumna, 13 = 1,110 = 85-5

Khumna and Nulka, 16 = 1,516 = 89-3

Monass and Nulka, 9 = 816 = 90-6

Monass and Khumna, 26 = 2,332 = 89-9
----------
6)550-8
----------
Mean value of 1 degrees of Fahr. as indicated on the barometer 91-8

Second series of observation

Benka and Monass, 13 degrees Fahr.1,193-4 feet 91-8 feet

Benka and Nulka, 4 = 367-2 = 91-8

Benka and Khumna, 13 = 1,178-1 = 90-6

Khumna and Nulka, 17 = 1,557-0 = 91-10

Monass and Nulka, 9 = 826-2 = 91-8

Monass and Khumna, 26 = 2,386-8 = 91-8
----------
6)549-8
----------
91-6

The Monass is called Goongree by the Booteas; its bed is very much inclined, and tranquil pools are of rare occurrence: it is not fordable in any place, although many of the rapids are not very deep. The singular bridge is said to be of Chinese construction, and that it serves the purpose of a chief thoroughfare, is a proof of the extremely small population of the country.

Onions grow at Nulka, plantains, sugarcane, tobacco.

Bheirs are common. Weeping cypress occurs, but stunted.

The entrance to this village on the north-side, is through a square building, the ceiling of which is painted, and the walls decorated with figures of deities, white and red.

[Koollong Bridge: p230.jpg]

_February 6th_.--We descended immediately to the Monass, keeping along its banks throughout the greater part of the march; rising however, over one or two spurs that dip into it.

This river varies a good deal in width, its bed, however, is generally confined, and the stream fierce; occasionally, however it spreads out and becomes here and there more placid. We continued along its banks, crossing one or two small streams until 12 o'clock, when we reached a large torrent, the Koollong, up which we proceeded three or four hundred yards, but at some height above its bed. We crossed this by a wooden bridge of similar construction with that over the Deo Panee, and the idea of which is ingenious. It is nearly fifty yards wide, and about twenty above the torrent. It is in a bad state, and unprovided with railings throughout the central level part. The houses into which the inclined supporting beams are fixed are strong, and built on rock. The fastenings are altogether of cane, and the whole presenting the appearance given in the annexed drawing.

Hence we ascended a black, rocky, burnt-up mountain until we reached Khumna, the ascent amounted to nearly 2,000 feet, and occupied more than an hour.

But little of interest occurred, in fact I never saw a more barren country. We passed a small village of two or three houses, and two good patches of rice cultivation, one just below Nulka, one at Ghoomkhume, the small village just alluded to.

Pinus longifolia descends nearly to the bed of the Monass, which below Nulka is about 2,200 feet above the level of the sea. Along this I noticed Hiraea, Eugenia, Vitis, Jasminum, Paederia foetida, Ficus, Loranthus, Scurrula, Desmodium, Aerides, Vanda, Flacourtia, Kalanchoe, Leguminosa, _Vanillidora of Solani mookh_, Ceanothus, Bergera, Dischidia bengalensis, Leguminous trees, Euphorbia, Bassia, Cheilanthes of Brahmakoond common, Coccoloba cyanea. In rice khets at Ghoomkurrah, I found Lemna, Cardamine, Rumex of Khejumpa, Cirsium decurrens, Gnaphalia, Datura, Simool in flowers; Spathoidea, Oxalis coriculata, Cannabis, Verbesina.

I observed water-ouzels, bucco, water-wagtails, bulbuls, ordinary and yellow-rumped.

[Gradient Nulka to Khumna: g232.jpg]

Passed cotton cultivation in two places, one close to the Monass, and one to the Koollong, both equally bad, and observed Begonia edule, which they call Sheemptsee, and which they eat.

The road to-day was generally good, overhanging in one place the Monass at a height of forty yards above, and below scarped precipices. The road here was constructed or supported artificially. Distance six miles.

_February 7th_.--To Phoollong. Left at 9.5 A.M., and immediately commenced ascending. The ascent was at first steep, then gradually wound round the Khumna mountain, which was most barren throughout. The ascent continued but very gradually until we came near Phoollong, to which we descended, and then ascended about 1,000 feet. About half-way, and when we had ascended perhaps 1,000 feet, we came on new vegetation, oaks, Rhododendra, etc. as before, and this continued improving in denseness until we reached the village. The distance is five miles, ascent about 1,500 feet, but so gradual, that one would not imagine it more than 800 feet. At Khumna, I noticed Pinus longifolia, Pyrus malus, Achyranthes dense, Cirrus, Urtica urens, tobacco, Musa, Datura, Artemisia major. Hogs are fed here in large circular platters made of stone scooped out.

Commencing the ascent, I observed Ficus cordata of Bhamru, Rhus pendula, Indigofera _elatior_, Conaria, Pteris aquilina, Cerasus commenced at 5,000 feet. Then Desmodium vestilum, Artemisia minor, Conyza laculia, Rubus deltifolius, Labiata Sudyensis, Acanth. caerulescens.

Quercus robur commenced at about 5,200 feet, but stunted Flemingia secunda, then Gaultheria arborea, Gnaphalium nivea.

Here there was a high ridge to the right, crowned with a wood of Q. robur, all the leaves of which had fallen. Myrica, Rhododendron, Jubrung, Didymocarpus contortus on rocks, Cnicus, Clematis cana, Polygonum rheoides. At a village here, which contained ten houses, observed Cupressus pendula, Citrus, wheat, Bambusa, then Juncus. Primula of the Khasya hills. Q. robur abundant, Composita penduliflora, Saurauja hispida, Equisetum, Rubus caesius, Alnus of Thumathaya, Elaeagnus spinosus, E. macrophyllus 5,300 feet: Plantago, Coriaria, Erythrina, Rhus acidum, Cerastium coenum, Dipsacus, Viburnum microphyllum, Rubia cordifolia, Barleria, Tetranthera oleosa, Hedera, Gentiana, Myrsine, Blasia, Fleshy urticea, Q. robur, Gordonia, Adamia, Neckera jungermannoides and laeta, Primula in abundance, Acorus, Calamus, Scirpus kysoor of Churra, Gram. latifolia, Andropogonoides of Suniassa.

Coming on a well-wooded ravine close to Phoollong, the first I have seen since leaving Balphai, found Quercus 2, Castanea, Gordonia, Spiraea decomposita, and S. Bella, Hydrangea, Rhododendron, Thalictrum, Quercus, Curculigo, Viburnum caerulescens, Indigofera elatior, Gnaphalium niveum, Sempervivum on rocks, Panicum eleusinoides, Thibaudia myrtifolia, Swertia major, Alnus as before, Rubus moluccanus, Salix lanata, Primula Simsii, Phlomoides, Orthodon.

Throughout the march we observed many detached houses on the mountains forming the right bank of the Koollong, and much cultivation, all of the terrace sort. Passed one village beneath us about 700 feet, containing twelve houses, and the one mentioned above; as usual, ruined houses occur.

Cattle furnished with litters of leaves; a curious low was heard, like that of an elephant.

Booteas work their own cotton, much of which is cultivated along the rivers at low elevations.

Higher land, certainly 11 to 12,000 feet high, was visible to the north side: on this a good deal of snow was visible.

[Gradient Khumna to Phoollong: g235.jpg}

_February 8th_.--Towards the morning it commenced to rain; snow has fallen on both sides the Koollong: it has fallen on the road we came by yesterday, and on the hills above to within 200 feet of us, or in some places to the level of this. Exemption in favour of this place is to be attributed to local causes. The trees in the neighbourhood are completely covered with it, and it is said to have fallen here twice during the night,

The Bootea houses are ill calculated for rain, they leak all around as indeed might be expected, from the nature of the roofs, which consist of boards, kept _in situ_ by stones. It would be curious to ascertain the temperature under which snow does not fall, and if possible the temperature here and among the snow. In the morning, sleet with a few flakes of snow fell also, but only occasionally.

Snow continued to fall throughout the day, and steadily too: it commenced slightly: as the cold increased it ceased to melt on reaching the ground, and at length all around was a sheet of white. The variations of the thermometer were considerable and frequent, the wind blowing pretty steadily from the south-east.

At 10 A.M. 37 degrees Snow commencing. At 10.5 A.M. 36 degrees South-east wind. At 10.75 A.M.40 degrees Wind from the north, snow rather heavy. At 11.75 A.M.37 degrees South-east. At 12 Noon 35 degrees ditto. At 12.5 P.M. 36 degrees ditto. At 2.5 P.M. 37 degrees ditto. At 4 P.M. 39 degrees ditto. At 6 P.M. 37 degrees ditto. At 9 P.M. 38 degrees ditto.

Fine moonlight night. View to the north beautiful; every thing silvered with snow; the deep and black ravine of the Koollong is particularly conspicuous, and on some cultivated spots the pendulous cypress with its sombre head and branches covered with snow, was also remarkable, altogether a beautiful scene. Larch-like firs were visible 500 feet over the road leading to this from Khumna.

_February 9th_.--Fine sunny morning: thermometer at 7 A.M. 35 degrees: at 8 A.M. 42 degrees. Hills around covered with snow. High ridge to south plainly visible, a good deal of snow visible. Went out at noon over to the south-east, in which direction a pine wood was visible; this I ascertained to consist of Pinus or Abies pendula, which has much the habit of a Larch. The altitude of this above Phoollong is certainly 1,000 feet; snow covered the ground in all sheltered spots. The woods here are formed chiefly of Q. robur, Q. ilecifolia also occurs here and there, Gordonia, Cerasus, Rhododendron minus.

Mosses and Jungermanniae abound, and were in high perfection owing to being saturated with moisture. Polytrichum, Neckera, Brachymenium, Dicranum, Weissiae, Fissidens, Hypnum, Didymodon, Diastoma, Orthodon, were found in perfection. The only new plants were a Campanula and a Chimaphila, which last was found at 7,000 feet. Berberis asiatica scarcely occurs below 6,000 feet, Hedera. The birds seen were the jay, barbet, red-and-black-headed, variegated short-wing, large ditto of Khegumpa, orange-breasted Trochilus, brown Fringilla, green woodpecker, black pheasant, and small squirrel of Assam was also found.

From the fir wood, Tassyassee was distinctly visible, bearing nearly due south, distance 10 or 12 miles. Koollong was also seen: all the high ground between that and Bulphai was covered with snow. The high range to the south is, I think, the same as that which runs up behind from the pagoda above Bulphai.

A few plants of the Assam Indigo, Ruellia indigofera, are kept here, and preserved with care, but stunted and obviously unsuited to the climate. Montario, our taxidermist, says that it is the fourth plant he knows from which indigo is procured. First, Indigofera--Second, the custard apple, _shereefa_--Third, a climbing plant used in Java, etc. probably Marsdenia tinctoria--Fourth,--?

_February 10th_.--Fine weather: thermometer at 7 A.M. 40 degrees. Started at 9 A.M., and reached Tassyassee at 3 P.M.; the distance being nine miles. We continued throughout nearly at the same elevation, rounding the hill on which Koollong is placed. About three miles from this we descended about 500 feet to a nullah, which we crossed over by means of planks, thence we ascended about the same height, and continued at nearly our former level until we descended to the Koollong, which we crossed by the usual form of wooden bridge. Thence we ascended 400 feet to the village, which is chiefly constituted by the Rajah's house, a very large edifice. The Koollong is still a considerable stream, but appears to be fordable, at least in the present season.

The vegetation continued the same almost throughout. In ascending from the nullah above mentioned, we came on plenty of Pinus longifolia, and on getting still nearer Tassyassee the Abies pendula became more and more common, until it forms on the opposite bank of the Koollong opposite this, a large wood; Pinus longifolia disappearing. The hills continue openly wooded, the woods consisting of oaks, chiefly Q. robur and Rhododendrons. In the ravines which are thickly wooded, oaks, chesnuts, Cerasus, Rhododendron arborea, mosses; Panax two or three species, among which is a new one, _P_. _aesculifolia_, arbor parva armati, foliis 7 digitatis, paniculis nutantibus. Hydrangea, Viburnum caerulescens, and Microphyllum, Galium, Ferns abundant, Bucklandia likewise occurred here and there! Tetranthera, Valeriana, Scabiosa, Conaria, Holcus elegans.

In the broken ground before reaching this, Gaultheria nummularifolia, Primula minor, in crevices of rocks. In some places Erythrina was very common, Gentiana, Dipsacus, Sedum and Didymocarpus contortus on rocks, Saccharum aristatum, Salix lanata, Woodwardia, Primula minor, which grows in shade on the Khasya hills, is found here in sunny wet places. The scenery in some places is very romantic, and occasionally grand; the valley of the Koollong being closed far to the north by a high ridge and beautiful peaks, all heavily snowed. The Rajah's house is visible from a considerable distance. As we approached, some parts were rugged and bold. Water abundant throughout.

[Gradient Phoollong to Tassangsee: g239.jpg]

_February 11th_.--Went out at 1 P.M.; descending to, and crossed the Koollong, then ascending along its banks for about a mile.

The bridge over this is about thirty yards wide, abutting from two houses of ordinary structure, built on solid rocks: the river is underneath the bridge apparently of great depth; above it is a succession of rapids, it is even at this, the driest season, a considerable river. The path leads in a winding direction either over rice cultivation or on precipitous banks. I noticed Berberis asiatica, pinnata, a Pomacea spinosa, foliis spathulatis, Stauntonia latifolia, Hedera, Gaultheria two or three, Thebaudiaceae, Artemisia major, Erythrina, Primula Stuartii in abundance, Juncus, Alnus, Myrsina, Prunella in grassy spots, Rumex of Khegumpa, Daphne papyracae, Peperomia quadrifolium, Spiraea bella, Viola, Ophiopogon linearifol., Hypericum, Smilax, Elaeagnus, Conaria, Lonicera villosa, Epilobium sericeum, a common plant in all watery places, Cardamina Swertia, Viburnum microphyllum. Rhododendrum arborea and minor, Leucas ciliata, Thistles, Pteris aquilina, Neckerae, Osbeckia capitata of Churra, Oaks, Catharinea, Xyris, Gordonia, Fragaria, Potentilla two, Festucoidea, Cupressus pendula.

The greatest acquisitions were a beautiful pink farinaceous ascapous Primula, and a new genus of Hamamelideae. This plant I have long known, and called _Betula corylifolia_, as I had only seen it in fruit, and not examined it; it is found on the Khasya hills at elevations of between 4,000 and 6,000 feet. It will be worth dedicating it to some distinguished geologist, thereby associating his name with that of Bucklandia and Sedgwickii.

No fly-fishing is to be had in this stream, nor indeed in any at such elevations. The Adoee is found, but always keeps at the bottom, the structure of its mouth pointing out its grovelling habits. The Bookhar does not, I think, ascend more than 2,500 feet. Water-ouzels, white-fronted Sylvia occur. Observed for the first time the religious vertical revolving cylinders, these revolve by the action of water, which runs on the cogs of the wheel by means of hollowed out trunks of trees. Flour mills are common here, the grindstone revolves on another by means of vertical spokes, which are set in motion by a horizontal wheel, and moved by a stream let on it in the same way.

Funaria heygrometrina abounds in the larch wood here.

This is a very cold place, although 550 feet below Phoollong: it is much colder than that place: thermometer at 7 A.M. 34 degrees.

Snow still remains on the height around; heavy snow on the lofty ridge to the north; strong south-east winds prevail here.

[Tassgong from the Koollong: p241.jpg]

_February 12th_.--Tassyassy, which is also called Tassangsee, is a small place apparently consisting of one large house, belonging to the Soobah, and some religious edifices, the other houses belonging to it are scattered about among the adjoining cultivation. The Soobah we have just learnt is absent at Tongsa, so we have no opportunity of comparing his rank with that of the Tassgong man. His house is however, much larger; it is situated on a promontory formed by the debouching of a considerable sized torrent into the Koollong. The bridge is at the foot of this hill, which is about 400 feet high: the house is accessible to the north and west only. Half-way up a high hill to the north-west is a fort! and between the foot of this hill and the Rajah's house there is a wall with a tower at the north-west end, and a house at the south-east. In the afternoon the weather threatened snow, but it ended in very slight rain.

_February 13th_.--Thermometer at 7 A.M. 33 degrees: at 9 P.M. 31 degrees: cloudy. Observed Conyza nivea, Composita penduliflora, Agrimonia, Stemodia grandiflora, a species of Alopecurus in inundated rice fields, Fragaria, in the wood, Arenaria, Gymnostomum on the terraces. An Arabis in cornfields with a Viola, probably V. patrinia, Gaultheria deflexa and Gerardia of Churra. The fir woods are comparatively bare of mosses and lichens. Shot an Alauda, a Fringilla, and a curious climber with the tail of a woodpecker, at least so far as regards the pointing of the feathers, plumage of Yunx, and beak of Certhia.

Fine cypresses were seen opposite Tassangsee.

_February 14th_.--Left Tassangsee, diverging from the Koollong at that place, and following the nullah, which falls into that river below the Soobah's house. The march was a generally, continued, gradual ascent; we crossed two considerable streams by means of rude wooden bridges, and the whole march was a wet splashy one, owing to the abundance of water. Snow became plentiful towards the latter end. The direction was west, the distance about seven miles. We passed two or three deserted villages.

We commenced ascending through woods of stunted oaks, Rhododendrons, Gaultheria arborea. The chief under-shrubs being Daphne papyracae, Gaultheria fruticosa, Primula Stuartii, Lycopodium of Surureem, Thibaudia myrtifolia continue, the Alnus of Beesa occurred plentifully along the bed of the nullah. Spiraea decomposita, Valeriana simplicifolia, Conaria, Scabiosa, Fragaria, Potentilla, Geranium, Artemisia major, Spiraea bella, Hedera, Viburnum caerulescens, Q. robur, Crawfurdia speciosa also occurred.

Ascending, the oaks and Rhododendrons became more developed the latter being the smaller species, Bambusa microphylla, Gordonia, Sphoeropteris, Antrophyum trichomanes, Oxalis major! commenced. Larches on the opposite side, Saccharum aristatum, Gillenioides, Gleichenia major, Hemiphragma, Abies Brunonis commence.

At 6,500 feet Smilax ruscoides, Senecio scandens, Lilium giganteum. The Rhododendrons here are large, forming with oaks, open woods, mosses and lichens, very abundant. Here we came on snow, with it commenced Eurya acuminata, Rhododendron formosa, majus, Rhododendron fruticosa on ruins, Pyrus malus, Dipsacus.

At 6,800 feet, Q. ilecifolia, Q. glauca, Dalibarda, Bambusa very common, Sphagnum abundant, Rhododendron formosa, majus, Quercus ilecifolia larger and more common at 7,000 feet, Gaultheria nummulariodes very abundant, Daltonia, Lomaria of Khegumpa, Gaultheria flexuosa, Thibaudia acida, Tetranthera nuda, Lycopodium of Surureem, Primula Stuartii, Hyperici sp., also _H_. _moflongensis_, are found up to 7,400 feet, with Hemiphragma, Elaeagnus spinosus, microphyllum, Juncus, Alnus of Beesa, Saccharum aristatum.

The village is a ruined one apparently, and never contained more than four or five houses, situated on an open spot, surrounded by woods. This spot is covered with sward, a fine Q. ilecifolia occurs about the centre of the village. Its altitude is 7,983 feet.

The vegetation is the same, Abies pendula, Oaks, Rhododendron formosa, majus, the other has disappeared, Bambusa microphylla, Thibaudia acida, Primula Stuartii, Juncus.

[Gradient Tassangsee to Sanah: g243.jpg]

_February 15th_.--We started very early; the coolies were all off by 6.5 A.M. Our march was first over undulating ground, either sward or through green lanes. We then commenced ascending a steep hill visible from Sanah, the face of which was covered with sward; at the top of this, snow lay rather thick, especially in the woods. The ascent continued, soon becoming very steep, snow laying heavily on the path, until we reached the summit of the second ridge; thence we descended a little, soon ascending again very steeply until we surmounted the highest ridge. The descent from this was at first most steep, the path running in zig- zags, and being in many places very difficult. About 1,000 feet below, we came on sward, with wood on the right, along which we descended, diverging subsequently through a thick wood, until we reached sward again. Here the coolies who had come up had halted, refusing to go on, as it was already dusk. Learning that Pemberton and B. had gone on, I hurried on likewise, expecting that the coolies would follow, and continued along the swardy ridge, the path running occasionally between patches of wood, the descent being gradual; the path then struck off into wood, and the descent became rapid. I continued onward, until it was quite dark, and finding it impossible to proceed, and meeting with no signs of B. and P., I determined on returning. I reached the coolies about eight, covered with mud, the path in the wood being very difficult and excessively slippery. I had nothing but broken crusts to eat; I procured some sherry however, and my bedding being up, I was glad to take shelter for the night under the trees. Next morning on overtaking P. and B., I found that they had remained all night in the wood without any thing to eat, and without bedding, and that no habitation was near. We reached the village about 9.5 on the 16th, fatigued and dispirited. Nothing was at hand, and we had no meal until 5 P.M. except some tea, and an egg or two.

Many of the coolies came up late on the 16th, and some have not yet arrived (17th.) The distance was fifteen miles, to the halting place about twelve. The amount of ascent about 4,500 feet, and descent 6,100 feet, the road being difficult and very slippery: snow was heavy throughout, and the elevations between 9 and 12,400 feet; icicles were frequent. The trees were all covered with frost, and the aspect was wintry in the extreme; luckily there was no wind, and no snow fell. The summit of the ridge was 12,477 feet high. No views were obtained throughout the 15th and 16th; the weather being cloudy and very disagreeable. No bad effects were experienced from the rarefaction of the air; we all suffered of course from colds owing to exposure at night, at an elevation of nearly 9,500 feet; the servants bore it tolerably well.

At Sanah, the altitude of which is 7,983 feet, (Pemb.) I observed Quercus ilecifolia, on it Neckerae, Anhymenium, Senecio scandens, Rhododendron arboreum, majus, Juncus effusus, Swertia, Pendulous lichens, Dipsacus, Artemisia major, Primula Stuartii, Berberis asiatica, Bambusa microphylla, Lycopodium of Surureem, Orthotrichum!

At 8,000 feet, Smilax ruscoideus, Senecio scandens, woods of oak and Rhododendrons, the ground and the trees covered with mosses. Gnaphalium, Daphne papyrif., Mespilus microphyllus! Gaultheria nummularioides, Spiraea gillenioides, and S. bella, Hypericum, Gnaphalium lanceolatum, trivenum, Sambucus! but withered, Tetranthera nuda of Bulphai, Abies Brunonis which is probably a Podocarpus.

At 8,300 feet, Tussilaginoides of Churra, Primula Stuartii common on swards with Swertiae, etc. as before, Funaria and Weissia Templetonia common, Sphaeropterus! Quercus ilecifolia, Abies pendula, Rhododendron arboreum, majus! Dalibarda, Rubus, Ilex dipyrena! Rhododendron undulatum!

At 8,400 feet, the road running along, and above a ravine, rocky ground to the right, Eurya acuminata! Composita penduliflora. Thibaudia rotundifolia, and in a swampy sward a small dwarfed very narrow-leaved bamboo, Primula Stuartii, Gnaphalium densiflorum, Swertia monocotyledonea, Prunella in the woods, Salix lanata, and Panax rhododendrifolia.

Just above this, 8,500 feet, the first Abies cedroides appeared, soon becoming very common, and extending up to 9,500 feet, its habit is like that of a cedar, and it is a tall handsome tree, Rubia* cordifolia! Geranium scandens, Baptisioides.

Crossing a nullah, we commenced a steep ascent, Thibaudacae rotundifolia, Abies cedroides, Lomaria of Khegumpa, Crawfurdia speciosa, Andropogon, Gaultheria nummulacifol. Ilex, Epibolium Vaccinium cyaneum! Here a sward commenced with vegetation as before, the summit of this ascent was 9,050 feet. Here Ilex, Daphne papyracae, Rhododendron, Scleria, Lomaria of Khegumpa! Primula pulcherrima! Spiraea bella, Gnaphalium trivenium, Rubus moluccanus, Thibaudia, Ericinea orbiculens, Spiraea decomposita, Gaultheria, nummulariod., Scutellaria prunella, Gaultheria flexuosa, Scandent composita, Cerastium bacciferum. The trees covered with mosses, Neckerae, Dicranum, Daltoniae, Abies pendula ceased, its limits visible below. Hence the ascent was gradual at first: snow became heavy at 9,100 feet. Hemiphragma, Rhododendron abundant.

At 9,500 feet, much the same vegetation, Abies densa commenced, cedroides ceased. Woods entirely of A. densa, with a small baccate-like deciduous leaved tree. Hydrangea! Spiraeacea! Urticeae?! Pedicularis elatior.

At 10,000 feet, some trees all covered with frost; snow very heavy, quite crisp, Juncus niveus, Cerastium inflatum! bamboos, other plants of 9,500 feet, continue. Old Cretins!

At 11,270 feet, thermometer 39 degrees, the same trees, scarcely any thing but Abies, Arenoid, Dicranum macrocarpus, Orthotrichum, Lichen pendulum atratum.

Thence we descended a little, soon to re-ascend.

At the same elevation Parnassia, Epilobium monus, Gnaphalium densiflor., Vaccinium pumilum, Gentiana, Polygonum(?)

At 11,000 feet, icicles were common, and snow, very heavy. Woods of some Abies, a species of rose very abundant, a shrub of four feet high; other plants continue as before.

From this to the summit the ascent was very steep; Abies continues. Rhododendron(?) very common, with rose, Parnassia, Saxifraga, Composita arenoid, Gentiana, Polygonum(?), Pedicularis dwarfed, Triticoides, Aroides. Many pines dead as if blasted. Summit nearly bare of trees, which appear confined to slopes, Rhododendron very common, Umbellifera crassa, figured in Royle, Lilium unifloria.

At 12,000 feet, after descent, commenced Hymenophyllum, Xyris on rocks, Pyrus at 11,500 feet, Rhododendron ellipticum common, summit strewed with rocks, Rhododendron pumilum.

At 10,000 feet, the Spilus microphyllus, Polygonum, as well as on ascent Gaultheria nummularioid., swards abounding with Gramen nardoides(?), Dipsacus minor, Epilobium parnassia, Swertia, Umbelliferae, Primula scapigerc. floribus in globum densum, pedalis, Habenariae herminioid.

At the halting place 9,700 feet, Berberis ilecifolia, Daphne papyracae, Thibaudia myrtifolia, Baptisia, Dipsacus, major, Swertim pedicularis, Andropogones, Ilex dipyrena, Rumex of Khegumpa, Betula, Euonymus cornets, Abies cedroides, and Brunonis, Geranium scandens, Pyrus, Hypericum moflongensis, Hemiphragma, Mespilus microphyllus, Panax rhododendrifol., Rhododendron obovatum.

At 9,500 feet, Rhododendron arborea, majus, Abies cupressoides, Gaultheria nummularioides flexuosa, Thibaudiacea rotundifolia, Primula Stuartii, stunted juncus.

At 9,000 feet, Q. ilecifolia, Rhododendron undulatum, Primula pulcherrima, Tetranthera nuda, Chimaphiliae! Andropogons, Rhododendron arbor, majus, common, which varies much in size of leaves, Dalibarda, Smilax ruscoideus.

At 8,500 feet, Berberis pinnata, asiatica, Buddlaea purpurea; Eurya acuminata.

At 8,000 feet, Gnaphalium trivenium, Baptisia, Spiraea, (Gillenioid) bella, Artemisia major. 7,500 feet, Rhododend. minus arborea, Leucas ciliata, and woods of Q. robur, as usual deciduous.

[Gradient Sanah to Linge: g248.jpg]

All the plants above 10,500 feet, had perished, not a single one being found in flower. The descent was so hurried, that it was impossible to note down more plants; and the same applies to the descent to this from the halting place. Starvation being to be added to discomfort.

Of Rhododendrons, the species observed, may be characterized as follows:--

_Floribus in racemis umbelliformibus_.

1. R. _arboreum_, arboreum, foliis oblongo obovatis, subtus argenteis.

2. R. _ferrugineum_, arboreum, foliis obovatis, supra rugosis, subtus ferrugineis.--No. 654.

3. R. ----- fruticosum, foliis oblongis, subtus ferruginea lepidotis.--No. 652.

4. R. _ellipticum_, fruticosum, foliis ellipticis.--No. 653.

5. R. ----- fruticosum, foliis ellipticis basi cordatis subtus glaucus reticulatis.--No. 659.

6. R. ----- fruticosum, foliis lanceolato oblongis, sub-obovatis, subtus punctatis.--No. 655.

7. R. _undulatum_, fruticosum, foliis elongati lanceolatis, undulatis subtus reticulatis.--No. 656.

_Floribus solitariis_.

8. R. _microphyllum_, fruticosum, lotum ferrugineo lepidotum, foliis lanceolatis parvis.

_February 17th_.--Snow has fallen during the night all around, but not within 1,000 feet of us: this will make the snow line here about 7,300 feet, the village being 6,335 _supra marem_. Mildness of climate would appear to be indicated by the abundance of rice cultivation round this place, chiefly, however, about 1,000 feet below. In every direction ranges of 9 to 12,000 feet are visible: villages are very common, especially so in a hollow on the western side of the ravine of the Kooree, in which I counted sixteen or eighteen; one containing between thirty and forty houses. The space alluded to is one sheet of cultivation, chiefly rice and wheat. Linge itself is an ordinarily sized village, containing about twelve houses. The wooded tracts cease for the most part, about 1,000 feet above this. The face of the country, where uncultivated, being clothed with harsh Andropogoneous grasses, Salix pendula, Thuja pendula, Pyrus malus, Erythrina, Quercus, Juncus effusus, Porana of Churra, Plantago, Barleria, Polygonium rheoides, Stellaria media, Rubus deltifoliis, Cnicus, Rhodod. arboreum minus, but rare, Smithea occurs also.

_February 18th_.--Our march commenced by a steep descent on the south face of the hill, the coolies proceeding by a more direct one to the north, but which was said to be difficult. We continued descending in a westerly direction, until we came in sight of the Kooree river which flows along the ravine, and which is a large stream, one-third less than the Monass. We then turned to the north following the river, the path running up, about 800 feet above it. We then came to another ravine, and descended to the torrent, which we crossed by a rude wooden bridge: then followed again the Kooree, to the bed of which we descended, and along which we continued for some time. We then ascended where the banks were of such a nature as not to allow a path, descending again here and there. Then we came on the Khoomun, a large torrent, which we crossed by a wooden bridge about 100 yards above its bed; re-descended to the Kooree, reached its bridge; and thence descending rather steeply, and for about one and a half mile to Ling-Ling, or Lengloon, which is plainly visible from the bridge over the Kooree.

After turning to the north along the Kooree, and indeed after passing the cultivation below Linge, which chiefly occupies a sort of plateau, we passed through a most miserable country, the hills being rocky, nearly destitute of trees, and chiefly clothed with the usual coarse Andropogoneous grasses, especially lemon-grass, occurred between Linge and Lengloon.

At 5,000 feet, observed Desmodium, Santalacea australasia, Gaultheria arborea, Indigofera, as before, Clematis cana, Acanthacea caerulescens, Pteris aquilina, Viburnum caerulescens, Oxyspora, Panicum eleusinoides, Anthistiria, Conyza, Ficus cordifoliis of Bhamree, Labiata Suddiensis, Corearia, Rhus pendula, Airoides major, Flemingia secunda and major.

At 4,800 feet, Desmodium vestilum, stunted, Q. robur, Dipsacus, Epilobium, Elaeagnus microphyllus, spinosus.

At 4,600 feet, Sedum, Campanula, Osbeckia capitata, Citrus in villages, Emblica, Artemisia minor.

At 4,000 feet, Paederia cyanea, lemon-grass, Panax, Terebinthaceus, Pinus longifolia, here and there, Ficus obliqua, Grislea, Cirsium.

At the bed of the torrent 4,000 feet, Bassia.

Over the Kooree, Euphorbia antiqorum, a sure sign of aridity. Didymocarpea contorta, D. canescens, which differs from the other in being hirsute, Menispermum, Holcus elegans.

Along its bed, Sedum of Phoollong, Eugenia, Achyranthis, Ingoides arborea, Aspidium polypodioides, Briedleia obovata; Desmodium of Nulka! Arundo, Buddlaea neemdoides, Jasminum of Benka, Composita, involucri squamis ciliatis. Rice fields, in these Gnaphalium aureum, Phleoides of Tassangsee, but in full flower, Lysimachia majus, rugosus, Oxalis comiculata, Hieracioid, Composita, Lactucoid purpureseus, Ammannia, Bidens alba, Drymaria.

Then along the wooded banks, Wendlandia, _Pomacea_? Mimosa arborea, Camunium, Butea suffruticosa, Pterospermum of Bhamree, Luculia, Ulmus, as before, Pinus longifolia, Rottlera, Melica latifolia, young plants of Q. robur on rocks, along with it Goodyera articulata, Urticoid rhombifolia, carnosa; on rocks up Khoomun, Orthotrichum corcalypta. At the bridge over this, a Myrtaceous tree and the Simool occur. The plants occur during the ascent, as in the descent. Water-wagtails, blackbirds, tomtits, were observed, as also white-pated and white-rumped water-chats.

_February 19th_.--Ling-Ling or Lengloon.

_February 20th_.--To-day we visited the Soobah, who is a young man, certainly not more than twenty years old, with a good humoured countenance. The meeting was cordial but unattended with any state, and judging from appearances only, this Soobah is inferior to the others we have seen, and especially to him of Tassgong. No armed men were present, and the whole bystanders scarcely amounted to 100. It was agreed that we remain here until the baggage, now in the rear, arrives. Tonsa is, we hear, only four or five days journey from this.

The meeting took place in an open plot of ground below the Soobah's house and on the skirts of the village, the ground was matted and a space enclosed with mats: we sat in the open air; the Soobah under a silken canopy. Altogether he seemed a person of no pretensions, crowds, speaking comparatively, of priests attended as usual, they were the slickest looking of the whole, and the greatest beggars. A hideous party of _nachnees_ were in attendance, and ready to perform any more pleasing duties they might be required; they were however so ugly, that not much self-denial was required in declining their offers. They were dressed in red, with abundance of cumbrous silver ornaments, and dirty leggings; one was additionally ornamented with incipient goitre.

Sugarcane (but stunted), almonds, or peach, oranges, castor-oil, datura, pear, simool, may be found here. Oranges are poor enough, the pear no better. Pinus longifolia, Cupressus pendula, are almost the only trees: the hills being barren, covered with coarse grasses.

_February 23rd_.--Marched to Tumashoo: our march commenced with a steep ascent, but which may be avoided by going through the village, it commenced and continued throughout in the direction of Linge, opposite to which place we found ourselves on our arrival, but on the right bank of the river. The highest part reached, before we descended to this village, was 6,350 feet, or about the height of Linge. The march was nearly six miles, it was easy, the road being throughout excellent and apparently more frequented than any we had hitherto seen. Generally we moved along through open Rhododendron woods, frequently very much stunted, at 6,000 feet. These were intermixed with Quercus tomentosa. The only spot well wooded, occurred in the ravines, giving exit to small streams.

The first ascent from Leng-Leng, gave the same vegetation, scarcely any trees being visible. Tradescantia clavijera of Churra on rocks, Galium of Churra, Santalacea, Desmodium vestilum, Indigofera canescens, Artemisia major and minor, Oxyspora, Luculia, Conaria, Sambucus in wet places, Lobelia pyramidalis, Spiraea bella and decomposita, Thalictrum majus, Gaultheria fruticosa, Woodwardia, Saurauja hispida, Rhododendron minus, and lemon-grass, occurred in the order of ascent.

Turning hence along the ridge at the same elevation, Gaultheria arborea, Quercus tomentosa, Rhododendron minus, Hedychium, Holcus elegans, Leucas ciliata. In wet wooded spots Gaultheria duplexa, Bucklandia, Viburnum caerulescens, Polyg. rheoides, Erythrina, Gordonia, Porana, Neuropeltis aromatica, Catharinea, Thibaudia myrtifolia, in open massy woods of Rhododendron minus and Quercus tomentosa, Rosa, Cnicus, Pyrus, Gleichenia major, Agrimonia occurred at the same elevations.

From one spot seven villages were visible, on opposite bank of Kooree and between Linge and the Khoomun. A few stunted P. longifolia: one or two of Abies pendula, occurred 100 feet above the highest point of the former: at 6,350 feet, woods of the deciduous Q. robur, were observable.

On the descent at 6,000 feet, Mimosa spinosa, Primula Stuartii, Rhus, Juncus, and others, as before.

We passed several villages, some containing twenty or thirty houses, and on halting found ourselves towards the edge of the cultivated tract alluded to, as seen from Linge.

Cattle are here kept in farm yards which are well littered with straw; as in other places they are noosed round the horns: they are fed, while tied up, on straw of a coarse and unnutritious description, which they do not seem to fancy much. Pigeons abound, but they are of no use as they cannot be caught; they may help to feed the sparrow-hawks, which are generally found about the villages, and which are very bold.

_February 24th_.--Left at 8 A.M. after the usual trouble about coolies and ponies. We ascended at first about 1,000 feet, passing over sward with woods of P. longifolia on either side, crossing the ridge through a hollow, we then commenced a steep descent to the west, until we reached a water-course, the elevation of which is about 200 feet below that of Tumashoo. We then struck off, again to ascend, and continued to do so until we attained 7,800 feet, from which point we descended gradually at first, then abruptly to our _mokan_. The direction was nearly west, the distance 11 miles, the march pretty easy, as the road was good, and the ascent gradual.

Up to the ravine and indeed throughout, nothing new occurred in the vegetation. The hill up which we ascended to again descend, was bare, covered with the usual coarse grasses, Campanula linearis and C. cana, foliis undulatis, Desmodium vestilum, Santalacea.

In the ravine Gordonia, Photinia, Pothos flammea and another species, Maesa, Polygonum rheoides, Ficus of Bhamree, and in the khets Hieraceoid, Gnaphalium aureum, Ajuga, and Veronica occurred.

Up the first ascent and at about 5,500 feet, there was a field of peas, in very luxuriant condition. Our road lay through open dry woods of oaks, either Q. robur or Q. tomentosa, principally the latter, Rhododendron minus, and Pinus longifolia preponderated in some places, but few trees of Abies pendula occurred.

The march was so far interesting as establishing nearly the limits of Q. robur, Q. tomentosa and Q. ilecifolia, which last only commenced, and then in a small state, at 7,300 feet, I should say that Q. tomentosa was to it the next indication, as well as Q. glauca. But it must be understood that only full grown trees are now considered. Mosses were common in the woods on reaching 6 to 7,000 feet, principally Dicrana, Hypna, Orthotricha, Pendulous lichens frequent; about 7,000 feet, Primula Stuartii in its old situations between 6 to 7,000 feet, Hypericum of Moflong, 7,000 feet.

We crossed several small water-courses, along these, the dry woods ceased, and the usual humid jungle made its appearance; mosses very numerous.

[Gradient Longloon to Tumashoo: g254.jpg]

The above plants continued throughout, after reaching an altitude of 6,000 feet, the woods consisting of oaks and Rhododendrons.

The route for the most part wound along the course of the Kooree, but considerably above, we left this track about 3 P.M. on the river turning to the southward. Linge was in sight nearly the whole day; we have been six days (including a halt) performing what might with ease be done in one, for there probably is a road in a direct line between this part and the opposite bank of Kooree. The small-crested finch, and red-beaked and red-legged fare occurred, the former is a noisy bird, inhabiting chiefly woods of Q. robur, the flock were loth to leave one particular spot, so that we obtained five specimens: the finch occurred at 7,800 feet.

Various temples and walls were passed en route, and a few villages, with one exception of average small size, were visible in various directions.

_February 25th_.--Our route hence continued for some time at about the same level, when we descended rather rapidly, until we reached a considerable stream, the Oongar, which is crossed by the ordinary wooden bridge; about 200 yards further, it is again crossed by means of a rude bridge, and the remainder of the march is a steep, long, and unmitigated ascent. I reached the tent about 5 P.M.; we passed one village situated near the larger bridge, with this exception the country seemed uninhabited: very little cultivation was visible in any direction.

The vegetation was the same, for the most part, the drier faces of the hills being covered, i.e. at about the level of Oongar, with oaks and Rhododendrons, the wet ravines being more densely, and more variously wooded. On sward about Oongar, I noticed a Pedicularis, Artemisia major, Stellaria angustifolia, Berberis pinnata in woods at the same elevation, Plantago, Crawfurdia speciosa, Rubus deltoideus, Alnus of Beesa, Otochilus, Gordonia, Lilium giganteum, Bucklandia.

In one spot near this place mosses were very abundant. On one rock I gathered, Weissioides, Orthodon, Pohlia, Brachymenium bryoides, Weissia, Bartramioides, Didymodon, Daphne papyrifera, and Eurya acuminata, this being about the lowest elevation at which I have seen this plant. In cultivated spots Crucifera, Ervum, and at a temple about a mile from Oongar, Cupressus pendula, and a juniper, Arbor parva, of aspect scraggy, trunco laevi, Cannabis, Cerastium canum in cultivated places. The most common oak was Q. robur. The Jay, larger Brachypodium, which always goes in large flocks, orange-breasted Trochilus and blackbird, were likewise seen, as well as the brown finch, which was seen feeding on Rhododendron minus. On rocky ground I procured a really fine Acanthus, leaves all flesh-coloured, subscandens, spic. maximis lanato-ciliatis, tetrastich. on this the black cattle appear to be fed, as large bundles were brought in at Oongar. In the woody ravines Panax curcasifolia was common, in these I noticed Cerastium scandens, Elaeagnus, Clematis, Tetrantheroidea habitu, Sedgewickiae! Orthotrichum pumulum! Phlomoides, and in wet spots are Epilobium. The descent shewed nothing remarkable: towards the nullah I noticed Engelhaardtia, tree fern, and Gaultheria deflexa. Obtained a beautiful woodpecker at 5,000 feet, with the chesnut-pated lesser tomtit, Yunx, and speckled Brachypodium in woods here; this last has the habit and manners of the crooked bill of Dgin.

The wood between the two bridges was very pretty and open; the trees covered with mosses. The ascent shewed nothing remarkable until 2,000 feet had been surmounted, the plants forming the vegetation below this were Q. robur, Rhododendron minus in abundance, Thibaudia myrtifolia, Gaultheria arborea, Saurauja hispida uncommon, Viburnum caerulescens, Conyza nivea, Oxyspora towards the base with paper plant, and Bambusa microphylla. About 5,000 feet, a Daltonia, D. hypnoides, was found in abundance both on rocks and trees.

The change takes place about the situation of a spacious open sward; here the jungle is thick, the trees consisting principally of Q. glauca, which is a noble tree, with immense lamellated acorns, Pendulous lichens are here common, Hymenopogon parasiticus, Lomaria of Khegumpa! Berberis asiatica! Hemiphragma, Gaultheria nummulareoides, Panax Rhododendrifol.

At 7,500 feet, Rhododendron majus appears, the wood preserving the umbrageous humid aspect, Eurya acuminata, Hydrangea, and about this snow commenced sparingly, but soon became thick. At 8,000 feet, Rhododendron undulata, Tetrantheroides baccis nigris. At 9,000 feet, Rhododendron ferrugineum. The evening now became so misty that it was impossible to discern any thing; in addition, it was snowing: these circumstances added to fatigue made me press on for the halting place, before coming to which I passed through heavy snow.

_Pemee_, where we put up, is a miserable hut, is upwards of 9,000 feet above the sea, situated on an open sward, now densely covered with snow, the accommodations being of course very miserable. Icicles of large size were seen here; and we had nothing but snow for water.

_February 26th_.--Leaving this, we commenced a long and at last very steep ascent, the snow increasing in thickness as we increased our elevation, the march commenced with undulations, but soon passed off into an excessively steep ascent, in some parts indeed precipitous. We crossed at twelve and a half P.M. the Pass of Rodoola, on which are some slabs, with mystic characters, but even here the ascent did not terminate, but continued, although very gradually for perhaps two miles more. Before coming to the summit, a small hut is passed. The descent was at first very rapid, then we proceeded along the side of the mountain for a long way, at nearly the same level through woods of Abies densa. On recommencing the descent, swardy patches commenced, surrounded by fir woods, these increased in frequency. At length we reached extensive fir woods, from whence a valley was visible, percolated by a large stream to which we descended over open country with beautiful patches of firs, and at length over extensive swards. I reached the village at 5 P.M., after a march of nearly nine hours, the direction was west, the distance eighteen miles. The road was very bad; in one place our ponies escaped with difficulty, the road having apparently fallen in, and the only footing being afforded by the thickness of the snow: one pony was saved by placing branches under him. The highest portion of the Pass near the peak was good enough. Snow was heavy on the road, until we descended into the open fir-wooded country, it became scanty at 9,500 feet. The day was gloomy and misty, for a moment, the sun appeared while I stood on the summit, disclosing deep ravines, one formed by the valley in which we now are, surrounded in every direction by equally high land, as that on which I stood, and certainly not under 12,000 feet. Nothing visible but dense forests of firs. The highest point crossed was 12,035 feet, estimating the summit to be 300 feet above the Pass itself, which is so narrow as scarcely to admit of the passage of a loaded mule.

In the open spot around the hut, Tofieldioid, which continues as high as 10,500 feet, Cerastium inflatum, Labiata species, Conecis, which, as on Dhonglaila, continues up to 12,000 feet, Dipsacus, Prunella, Gaultheria nummularioides, Pteris aquilina, stunted, Juncus niveus, Gnaphalium. No firs were visible, but the trees were so covered with snow, that I was not able to distinguish them.

At 9,800 feet, along an open ridge, Spiraea belloides, Buddlaea, B. purpurasae, Khasyanae affinis, Andropogones, Mespilus microphyllus, Hydrangea, Taxus, Swertia, Gnaphalium, Thibaudia orbicularis commences, continuing up to 10,500 feet, Brachymenium bryoides, Bambusa very common, forming frequently the chief bulk of the forest, even up to 10,500 feet, Acer arbuscula foliis palmatum lobatis!! Pyrus arbor magna fol. obovat. serratis subtus albus, fructibus cerasi magnitudinum.

At 10,000 feet, Composita penduliflora! Hemiphragma, Lobelioides, Brachymenium bryoides, Rhododendron minus ferrugineum, arboreum vel arbuscula, Rhododendron obovatum, foliis subtus albus, Rhododendron hispidum, Rosa microphylla, Bambusa, Spiraea of former ascent.

At 10,200 feet, Polygonum, Rheum, Hydrangea! Spiraea belloides, Hydrangea, Betuloides.

At 10,500 feet, Abies densa, but sparingly, Rhododendron ellipticum, foliis basi cordatis, Hypericum, Rhododendron microphyllum.

At 11,000 feet, no firs: nothing almost but Rhododendrons, R. ellipticum, and R. ellipticum foliis basi cordatis.

At 11,500 feet, Vaccinium, foliis ovatis spinuloso-dentatis, atratus fructex pygmaeus repens.

Towards the Pass, the face of the mountain became more and more rugged, the vegetation more scanty, consisting of nothing but Rhododendrons.

At 12,000 feet, Eriogonum minus, Polygonum, Rheum, Rhodod. microphyllum and ellipticum foliis basi cordatis.

About the Pass, Trichostomum, _Xyris_, Abies densa, one small plant, Rosa, Eriogonum minus, Rhododendron microphyllum and ellipticum foliis basi cordatis.

On the more level ridge between this Pass and the summit, Rhododendrons still were most frequent, Triticoides umbellifera of Royle, Eriogonum majus, woods of Abies densa occurred a little below the path, Gentiana maxima, 4-pedalis folliculis bipollicaribus, Lilium uniflorum, Potentilla common between this and 9,000 feet, Rosa microphyllum, Juniperus, Epilobium minus of Dhonglaila, Rheum. Large black crow, Pedicularis, Saxifraga, Umbellifera alia, Compositae, Spiraea.

At the summit, no woody vegetation was visible, except Rhododendrons; the firs being confined below.

The descent at first through Rhododendron, then for a long time entirely through vast woods of Abies densa, most of the larger trees of this are apparently blasted, it has a tabular form, and very sombre appearance, and can be recognized even at great distances by its black columnar palm- like appearance.

At 11,000 feet, Acer sterculiacea, Rosa microphylla, Ribes, which ceases below 10,000 feet, it is confined to the A. densa woods.

At 10,500 feet, Saxifraga, two species on moist banks, A. densa woods, small Umbellifera.

The sward commences at about 10,000 feet, and is common at 9,500 feet. It is clothed principally with the small bamboo noticed in similar places above Sanah. Berberis spathulata commences. It is with this sward that a new fir, with a larch-like look, which I call temporarily Abies spinulosa, commences, and continues down to the nullah, becoming more abundant as A. densa becomes less abundant, and finally usurping its place entirely. Rhododendron microphyllum continues to 9,600 feet, at which point Baptisoidea commences.

The vegetation hence to Bhoomlungtung consists entirely of Abies spinulosa, intermixed with a species very like Abies pendula, this appears at about 9,500 feet. The sward consists of small grasses, Juncus niveus, Gnaphalium, Hypericum of Mollong, suffrutex incertus. Juncus effusus at 9,000 feet, with Prinsepia utilis.

The marked indicators of great elevation are A. densa, Polygonum, Rheum! Eriogona! Rhododendron microphyllum, ellipticum, and ellipticum foliis basi cordatis, Epilobium, Triticoides, Holcoides, Umbellifera of Royle, Saxifragae, Ribes, Juniperus.

The most marked peculiarity is the comparative absence of A. densa on the east side of the mountain, and its excessive abundance on the west. This valley may be justly called the valley of pines, for in no direction is any forest to be seen but those composed of pines. The change indeed is extraordinary, in other respects as indicated by the presence of a new Rosa and Prinsepia utilis. Another peculiarity is the appearance for the first time of A. spinulosa. The range of which is between 8 to 10,000 feet; this is a beautiful tree, and disposed in beautiful groups. The valley altogether is a beautiful one, and actually repays one for the trouble endured in getting access to it.

The temperature in crossing the ridge was below that on Dhonglaila, and below the freezing point at times. No inconvenience was felt by us from the elevation, but many of our servants suffered probably as much from fright as cold.

_February 27th_.--Halted.

_February 28th_.--This valley is certainly the prettiest place we have yet seen, the left bank is particularly level, but neither are of much breadth, the hills adjacent present rounded grassy patches, interspersed with beautiful groves of pines. The level space, as well as the more favourable sites on the slopes of the hills, are occupied by wheat cultivation, which is carried on in a more workman-like manner, than any of the previous cultivation I have hitherto seen. The fields are occasionally surrounded with stone walls, but generally only protected from the inroads of cattle by branches of thorny shrubs strewed on their edges. They are kept clean, and above all, manure is used: it is however dry and of a poor quality, apparently formed of animal and vegetable moulds. In some of the fields the surface is kept very fine, all stones and clods being carefully removed and piled up in various parts of the field, but whether these masses are again strewed over the ground. The plough is used, and penetrates to about four inches. Hoes and rakes are also used, but the angle of the handle is much too acute. Radishes are grown with the wheat: no rice is cultivated here.

The village Bhoomlungtung, at which we are stationed is on the left bank of a branch of the Bhoomla nullah, a river of some size, but fordable in most places, its bed being subdivided. It is 8,668 feet above the sea. The houses are ordinary, but they are surrounded with stone walls. Our's, which is a portion of the Dhumpas or headman's, has a court-yard, surrounded by a stone wall, and the entrance is defended by a stout and large door. The natives invariably wear dark clothing, the colour being only rivalled by that of their skins, for I never saw dirtier people. The Bhooteas hitherto visited, were quite paragons of cleanliness compared to those we are now among. Half ruined villages are visible here and there, although otherwise the appearance of the valley is prosperous enough. The valley is surrounded on all sides by hills of great altitude, the lowest being 10,500 feet high. Snow is plentiful on the ridges, but it does not remain long below, although falls are frequent. No fish are to be seen in the river, which is otherwise as regards appearance as beautiful a trout stream as one could wish to have. The birds are the common sparrow, field-fare, red-legged crow, magpie, skylark, a finch which flies about in large flocks, with a sub-forked tail, raven, red-tailed stonechat, larger tomtit, syras, long-tailed duck, and quail, which is much larger than that found in Assam. The woods are composed entirely of Abies pendula, a few A. spinulosa occur, intermixed, but the woods of the latter species are scarcely found below 9,500 feet. The ridges are clothed with the columnar Abies densa. In thickets a smaller Rosa, Rhododendron ellipticum, foliis basi cordatis, Rhododendron elliptica, foliis subtus argenteis, Rhodod. gemmis viscosis. Berberis asiatica, Hamamelidea? Bambusa microphyllum, Philadelphus, Thibaudia orbicularis, Mespilus microphyllus, Taxus or Abies Brunonis, Ilex dipyrena, occur. The sward shews small grasses, all past flower, Hemiphragma, Thymus, Dipsacus, Juncus niveus, Gnaphalia 2, 3, Potentilla.

The fields have Crucifera Lamium and Verbascum, a late biennial species, Caule simplici, Hemiphragma.

The marshy spots abound with Juncus effusus, and shew also a Primula out of flower, and a Xyris past flowering.

Along the bed of the river, Hippophae is the most common plant. Lastly, a few trees occur of Q. ilecifolia, which assumes a very handsome character, looking much like a Conifera at some distance, one group occurs near the village, and a solitary tree or two elsewhere. The other woody vegetables are Rosa fructibus hispidis, Cycnium, Pomacea arbuscula, and one or two other deciduous shrubs. The willow tree is also common.

_March 1st_.--Marched to Byagur, we were told that the march was a short one, and that we should continue throughout along the Bhoomlungtung river, which is called Tung-chiew. We did keep along this for about two miles, when we struck off into the hills passing through a village, we continued rising for perhaps 1,000 feet, when we descended to a small nullah. Leaving this we commenced an ascent, and a very long one too, and continued to ascend until we surmounted the ridge overlooking the river, on which Byagur or Iugur is situated. To the place we descended, the march was fourteen miles, direction westerly. Highest ground traversed about 9,500 feet high. Road throughout winding round and up hills, through woods of Abies pendula: nothing of interest occurred. Magpies, crows, chatterer feeding on pine cones, common in woods at 9,000 feet. Passed two or three villages, all containing ruined houses. Direction we pursued was that of the Tung-chiew river, until we reached the ridge guiding the Byagur river to it: their junction takes place two or three miles below this place, Cycnium occurred on the road in plenty, also Sarcococea.