Chapter I: Preface

When Major Molyneux asked me to combine with him in the production of a book on Kashmir I could not resist the temptation to describe what he had so faithfully depicted, though my official duties naturally leave me insufficient time to do real justice to the theme. I have not been able to write with the completeness that I should have wished; and I am aware of many sins of omission. I can only hope that when the description fails the reader will be fortunate to have his attention irresistibly diverted to one or other of my collaborator's beautiful pictures.

THE RESIDENCY, SRINAGAR,
_September 1908_.

CONTENTS

CHAPTER I

SCENERY AND SEASONS

Bernier's impression of Kashmir in 1665--Comparison of
Kashmir and Switzerland--The road in--First signs of
spring--Srinagar in March--A start for
Shikar--Shikaris--Forest-clad hill-sides--Signs of
stag--View over the valley--Rosy mountains--Unrealised
beauties--A duck-shoot--The view from Hokrar--Harwan in
spring--Varying beauties of Kashmir--Harwan in May--Clouds
on the mountains--A Kashmir village--Irises and
roses--Trout-culture--A trout stream--Srinagar in April--The
view from Gupkar--A spring scene--Unusual rain--The Nishat
Bagh--Pandrathan--Srinagar in summer--The valley in
September--The end of the monsoon--The gorgeous autumn--A
Hokrar duck-shoot--The valley in winter--Shikaris--Shooting
in winter 1

CHAPTER II

TRAVEL IN KASHMIR

Travel in old times--My first entrance--My old
retainer--Present modes of travel--Stages from the
railway--Srinagar house-boats--Srinagar shops--Expeditions
from Srinagar--The descent from the Tragbal 47

CHAPTER III

SRINAGAR AND NEIGHBOURHOOD

An old capital--The Maharaja's arrival--Procession through
the city--The European quarter--The Jama Masjid--Shah
Hamadan--Dr. Neve's Hospital--The
Takht-i-Suliman--Pandrathan--The Dal Lake--The Nasim
Bagh--The Shalimar Bagh--The Nishat Bagh--Parihasapura 63

CHAPTER IV

THE RESIDENCY GARDEN

The first week in March--Fruit trees in bloom--Kashmir
tulips--Golden orioles--Roses in
May--Strawberries--Burbank's Delphiniums--The height of
summer--The garden in autumn--Autumnal colours 87

CHAPTER V

GULMARG

The "Meadow of Flowers"--Its numerous attractions--Views
over the valley--Flowers--Nanga Parbat 98

CHAPTER VI

THE VALLEYS AND PLACES OF INTEREST

The Sind Valley--Gangabal Lake--The Lolab--The Lidar
Valley--Martand--Achibal 108

CHAPTER VII

SPORT

Game Preservation--The year's bag--Duck-shooting--Fishing
118

CHAPTER VIII

THE PEOPLE

Kashmir beauties--The Pundits--Mohamedans--The Quadiani
sect--Kashmiri villagers--Boatmen 125

CHAPTER IX

THE HISTORY OF KASHMIR

Possible effect of natural beauty--Ancient
ruins--Martand--Greek influence--Buddhist
influence--Kanishka--Lalitaditya--Avantivarman--Short
reigns--Internal struggles--Perpetual intrigue--Advent of
Mohamedans--Zain-ul-ab-ul-din--Akbar--The Moghals--Afghan
oppressors--Sikhs--Rise of Gulab Singh--Break-up of
Sikhs--Gulab Singh and the British--Treaty of 1846--Gulab
Singh acquires Kashmir--Its deplorable state--Ranbir
Singh--Country still depressed--Famine of 1877--Improvements
during present reign 133

CHAPTER X

ADMINISTRATION

System of rule--Personal--Sources of revenue--Land revenue
assessment 183

CHAPTER XI

PRODUCTS AND MANUFACTURES

Wool--Silk--Fruit--Rice--Other grains--Experimental
farm--Soil--Implements--Forests--Mineral
products--Shawls--Carpets--Silk--Papier-mache--Puttoo--
Boat-building--Trade 194

CHAPTER XII

THE ELECTRICAL SCHEME

Water-power turned to electric power--The Jhelum River
harnessed--The flume--The power-house--Difficulties
encountered--The dredging scheme 222

CHAPTER XIII

THE PEAKS AND MOUNTAIN RANGES

The Peak K2--Errors in observation--Nanga Parbat--Rocks of
great peaks--The Himalayan range 234