Chapter I: Front Matter

KATHAY:
A
CRUISE IN THE CHINA SEAS.

BY
W. HASTINGS MACAULAY.

"Coelum, non animum, mutant,
Qui trans mare currunt."

NEW-YORK:
G. P. PUTNAM & CO., 10 PARK PLACE.
M.DCCC.LII.

Entered, according to Act of Congress, in the year 1852,
by G. P. PUTNAM & COMPANY,
In the Clerk's Office of the District Court for the
Southern District of New-York.

JOHN F. TROW, PRINTER,
49 Ann-Street.

Dedication
TO
MRS. JANE G. SPROSTON, BALTIMORE.

ESTEEMED AND RESPECTED MADAM:

I have presumed to address this work to you, more to prove the truth of its motto, than from any hope that it may be intrinsically worthy of your acceptance.

Connected with a noble profession by ties at once sad and dear, I have considered that a narration of events seen in its service--however unworthily set down, might not be uninteresting to you; and feeling assured that your prayers and kind wishes have followed us through "changing skies," as we have sped across "distant seas,"--upon our safe return, I am truly happy in being able to imitate the custom of mariners of more sunny climes, and to place this offering of affection upon the altar of Gratitude.

THE AUTHOR.

CONTENTS.

PAGE

CHAPTER I.

Set Sail--Sea-sickness--Get a good offing--Sail ho!--Islets
of St. Paul--Shipwreck there--Sufferings--Crossing the
Line--Fernando Noronha--Fire--Remarkable peak--Arrival
at Rio--Disappointment--Beauties of the harbor--Ashore at
last--Village of San Domingo--Flying trip to city--Yellow
fever--All hands up anchor--Sugarloaf Mountain--Off for
the Cape 9

CHAPTER II.

Telling Tales out of School--Double the Cape--The Flying
Dutchman--Albatross and Cape pigeons--Catching the
albatross--The man who ate the albatross--Superstition
of sailors--Man overboard--Lying to--Accident--Death--
The sailor's grave 20

CHAPTER III.

Island of St. Paul--Steering for Java Head--Land ho!--
Christmas Island--Straits of Sunda--A Beautiful Scene--
Sentimental Simile--Come to anchor--Anger Point--Village
of Anger--On shore in Java--Perfume of the East--Banyan
tree--The governor and Dutch hotel keeper--Welcome at
an inn--Attack on Anger Fort--Dutch officers' prowess,
and French!--The Javanese--Chinaman--Mosque--Mahomet--
Bazaar--Watering place 26

CHAPTER IV.

China Sea--Anchor off Macào--Canton River--Whampoa--Trip
to Canton--The San-pan--Pagodas--Lob Creek--Salt junks--
Description of a Junk--Mandarin, or search boats--Pirates--
Crowded state of River at Canton--Land at Factory Stairs--
Visit Vice-Consul--New China Street--A Cow-House--Wonders
of Canton--Factory gardens--Water parties--Buddhist temples,
and holy pigs--Dock-yard at Whampoa--American missionary at
Newtown--Bethel, and its pastor--Fourth of July--Back to
Macào--The Typa--The Barrier 33

CHAPTER V.

Passage ashore--A-ti--The Praya--Forts--Governor's Road--
Description of Macào--Murder of Amaral--Manoeuvring of Seu
and his triumph--A new Governor--His death--Council of
Government--View from Guia Fort--Marques's garden--Camoen's
grotto--Epitaph and doggerel written there--A beautiful
spot--Stealing fire from the gods--Fate of Prometheus 44

CHAPTER VI.

Up the Canton River again--Bay of Canton--Bocca Tigris--
Forts at the Bogue--Their construction--Conduct of Chinese
when attacked--The Feast of Lanterns--The Rebellion--Paddy
fields and mosquitoes--Back to Typa--Pleasant times--Blowing
up of a frigate! 54

CHAPTER VII.

Visit Hong-Kong--A beautiful morning--Harbor of Hong-Kong
--Settlement of Victoria--Line-of-battle ship Hastings--
Forecastle logic--An arrival from the Northern Seas--Her
B. M. S. Herald--Salutes--Description of Victoria--Club
House--Health of Hong-Kong--Death vacancies--Feasting and
fêtes--Ball--Pic-Nic--Departure from Hong-Kong 63

CHAPTER VIII.

China--Limited opportunities--The Chinese nation compared
with others--Its antiquity--Magnitude of territory and
practicability of laws--Supposed origin of the Chinese
--Fables of their early writers--Explanation of their
exaggerations--Foundation of the Empire--Chinese traditions
compared with sacred history--Similarity of events--Wise men
of the East--Introduction of Buddhism--Arts and sciences--
The magnetic Needle--Discovery of Gunpowder--Origin of the
name--China--Che-Hwang-te, King of Tsin--Parallel between
him and Napoleon--Religion--Confucius--The Taouists--
Buddhism--A Buddhist's idea of Heaven 70

CHAPTER IX.

Christmas and the New Year in Macào--Removal of remains of
Da Cunha--The dead give place to the quick--Chinese manner
of fishing--A new principle in hydraulics--Inspection of
Macào Militia--An ancient cemetery--Arrival of the new
Governor, Cardoza--Underway for Manilla--Fetch up at
Hong-Kong--Another start--Island of Luconia--Bay of
Manilla--Earthquake--Discovery and settlement of the
Philippines--Description of Manilla--The Calzada--A
puppet-show 81

CHAPTER X.

Drive to the Balsa--Meaning of the word--A mob of women
--Nora Creena--Magic, slipper--Description of the drive
--Ferryman of the females--Decline the office--The suburbs
--A la Balsa--Manilla, intra murales--The Mole by Moonlight
--Friend in a fit--Circo Olympico--Scenes in the Circle 90

CHAPTER XI.

An early drive--Visit to Churches--The Cathedral--
Description--Reflections--Church of the Binondo Quarter
--The dead child--Baptism--Life's entrances and exit--
Ceremony of taking the veil--Poor Maraquita--An episode
--Don Cæsar de Bazan--Interior of the convent--Interview
with the Lady Superior--Interchange of compliments--
Spanish courtesy--An admission 99

CHAPTER XII.

Fabrico del Tobago--Manufacture of the cheroot--
Description of the process--Female operatives--Gigantic
effects--Midshipman attacked--A delightful Evening--Boat
ahoy--Disappointed in trip to Lagunade Bay--Funcion
Familia--Madame Theodore--The Calçada again--Margarita
--Teatro Binondo--Teatro Tagalo de Tondo--Espana--Anecdote
of an Englishman--Farewell to Manilla--Out to Sea 105

CHAPTER XIII.

Anchor in harbor of Hong-Kong--Hastings and Herald both
off--Advantage of newspapers--A first-rate notice--The
Press of Victoria--The Friend of China--Its pugnacity--
Advertising sheets--Description of Island--Rain--
Character of Chinese inhabitants 114

CHAPTER XIV.

Hong-Kong--Object of its settlement--Its service as an
opium dépôt--Views of the opium trade--Its history--
Considered the cause and object of the war--Treaty of
Nankin--Opium trade fixed on China 121

CHAPTER XV.

Trip to Macào--Disappointed in getting ashore--Mail
arrived--Get no letters--Expression of sentiments--Causes
and effects--Overland mail--Idea of a route--Happy Valley
--Chase of Pirates--_A Poisson d'Avril_--Into the Typa
again--Arrival of consort--Late dates--Catholic fête--
Depart for Shanghae--The Yang-tse-Kiang--Improvement in
the appearance of the country--Better race of men--Banks
of the Woo-sung 127

CHAPTER XVI.

Shanghae--Immense number of junks--Foreign residences--
Novelty of Chimneys--Revolting appearance of beggars--
Undertakers--Price of coffins--Decline trading--
Description of city--Stagnant pools--Tea gardens--Sweet
site--The Taoutae--Advantages of Shanghae--Departure--
Ship ashore!--Sensation 135

CHAPTER XVII.

Amoy--Its trade--Cause of decay--Infanticide--Manner of
destroying female infants--China woman's confession--
Environs--British and American cemeteries--The fatal
rock--Koo-lung-Seu--Chinese gunnery--Chinese Customs--
Marriage--Death--Manner of mourning--Pagoda of
Nan-tae-Woo-Shan 142

CHAPTER XVIII.

Formosa--Description of the island--Its productions--Coal
mines--Metals--The Dutch possessions--Their expulsion--
Proper policy of civilized powers 148

CHAPTER XIX.

Leave Amoy--Arrive in Macào Roads--Live ashore--Well
guarded--Night calls--Ventriloquist at Typa Fort--
Ordered on board--Up to Whampoa--Clipper Ships--Over
to Hong-Kong--Coronation day--Independence day--
Hurried on board--The mail--Ty-foongs 154

CHAPTER XX.

Ty-foong passed--Pleasant season--Theatrical exhibition
--The Macàense--Philharmonic Society--Italian Opera--
Awaiting orders for home--Thoughts of home and friends
--Idea suggested by the setting sun--Poetry--Maladie de
Pays--Its effects upon the Swiss--A remedy--My own
experience, and manner of Cure 161

CHAPTER XXI.

Haul up all standing--Boat races--Interest in the sport--
Excitement general--Arrangements--Jockeyism--Regatta--
Preparations--The start--The race--The result--Launch and
first cutter--Race described con-amore--Suggestion of an
old salt--Satan and sailors 166

CHAPTER XXII.

Effects of the race--Suppers and their effects--The stuff
that dreams are made of--A scrape in the Typa--Again at
Whampoa 172

CHAPTER XXIII.

Anson's Bay--Hong-Kong again--P. & O. Company's hulk takes
fire--Escape of captain's wife--Toong-Koo Bay--Piracy--
Fire at Macào--Wolf again at Whampoa--Amateur theatricals
at Canton--Melancholy musings 177

CHAPTER XXIV.

Commodore arrives at last--Preparations for a start--Delay
--Washington's Birthday--The clipper Challenge--Prisoners
from her--Homeward bound!--Reflections on leaving--Case of
small-pox--Second visit to Anger 184

CHAPTER XXV.

No mosquitoes at Anger--The land of the East--A sketch--
Advantages of Anger--Dolce-far-niente--Island of Java--
Batavia--Bantam--Comparison between Anger and Singapore 189

CHAPTER XXVI.

Pass through Sunda Strait--H. B. M. S. Rattler--Catch the
trades--A learned opinion on diaries--Extracts from diary
--Isle of France--Its romance--Bourbon--Mauritius--Cape
of Good Hope--Description--Trouble in getting in--Table
Bay and Mountain 194

CHAPTER XXVII.

Land at Cape Town--Hotels and widows--Drive to Constantia
--Description of drive--Price of wine--Manumission of
slaves--Seasons at the Cape--The town through a microscope,
&c. &c. 200

CHAPTER XXVIII.

Settlement of Cape Town--Its productions--The Kaffir war--
Latest dispatches--Cause of the rebellion--Description of
the Kaffir by the traveller--Opinion of him by the resident
--Authority of prominent men--Observatory, &c. 208

CHAPTER XXIX.

A death on board--Our freight--Extracts from diary--St.
Helena and Napoleon--The trades--Poetical idea of a
starry telegraph--Good sailing 217

CHAPTER XXX.

Classic ground--Hispaniola--Romance of the western waters
--Extracts from diary--On a wind--Newsboats wanted--The
Bermudas--Target practice 222

CHAPTER XXXI.

The Gulf Stream--Darby's theory--Its ingenuity--The coasts
of America--John Cabot, the Venetian--"_Terra primum
visa_"--Completion of cruise--Conclusion 226

KATHAY.