Chapter VIII

Visit from the Governor — Catholic mission and school — A Colonel of Cavalry — Our grand banquet given to Latiffe Pasha, and Ali Bey Hassib — Turkish custom of dressing the table — The Governor’s statements — New dromedary saddles and bridles — An excursion — An interesting group — A visit to Madame Latiffe Pasha — Farewells.

His Excellency paid us an early visit this morning. His costume was not so rich as that which had so well become him on our reception; but, as if to make amends, he wore over it a magnificent cloth cloak trimmed with blue velvet. He was, as usual, very friendly; asked us to dinner; but as he could not ask our ladies, we of course refused on account of our approaching departure; but it was arranged that he should dine with us.

After luncheon, we visited the Catholic Mission—MM. Pedemonte, Angelo, and Zara. They received us most hospitably, and after the usual refreshments, were desirous that we should take with us about two camel- loads of White Nile curiosities. We examined their pretty little chapel, and their school with equal interest. The latter consisted of about twenty boys, in various costumes, and of almost as many different hues, from Frank white to inky native. Many of them are children of the European residents. Some can speak a little French and Italian, and nearly all can read and write.

I was anxious to make acquaintance with a celebrated colonel of cavalry, quondam Governor of Assouan, sub-Governor of the Soudan, and lately Governor of Kordofan. M. Angelo took me to his house. We found him in a room furnished with rug-covered bedsteads, and hung round with beautiful sabres, several pairs of very handsomely-mounted pistols, besides an assortment of guns and fowling-pieces. He was shy, and entirely disclaimed the feats that had been attributed to him, such as dividing oxen, and severing cushions or silk-handkerchiefs with a single blow of his sabre. He, however, gave us a very animated account of the war in Kordofan, where he had commanded, and of the showers of clubs which fell from unknown enemies while he was fighting in the woods and mountains.

Our grand dinner was now about to come off. We had invited Latiffe Pasha and Ali Bey Hassib; and already his Excellency’s head-cook and servant had made his appearance, bearing his master’s silver-spoon and fork, and a curious tray full of little dishes or saucers, containing condiments. There were sixteen of them; two of cucumbers, two of oranges divided, two of sugared pomegranate, two of parsley-salad, two of radishes, two of onion-salad, one of figs, one of eggs, and two little cups full of garlic and milk. This is a Turkish custom, and the little vessels looked pretty on the table.

In due time our distinguished guests arrived, and so did the dinner. The affair was rather heavy at first; but as the great men found the use of their appetites, they found also the use of their tongues. They ate of everything offered to them, but in small quantities, leaving much on their plates, frequently helping themselves, with a fork to a taste of the small dishes. They particularly enjoyed the idea of eating at Khartoum the English salmon, we had carried there in the hermetically- sealed boxes purchased at Fortnum and Mason’s, which was excellent. They drank sparingly, Ali Bey Hassib taking nothing but lemonade: nevertheless it was evident that they enjoyed themselves; the conversation was carried on with great vivacity, and immense fun was excited when Mahomed, while putting a dish on the table, set fire to his beard.

After dinner we became extremely social, exhibiting our purses, seals, ladies’ work and drawings, and they showing us their seals, which are signets, with their names cut on a stone. These they employ in the way of signatures as they never sign their names.

The Pasha became at last very communicative about the state of the country. His accounts, however, were startling. He said that the province pays the whole of its expenses, and enables him besides to remit eighteen to twenty thousand bourses per annum to Cairo (about ninety to one hundred thousand pounds). He placed the population of the Soudan at a figure too enormous to be credited, and spoke of naked Bedouins owning one hundred thousand oxen; not one of the vast stock ever being killed. We could not attempt to dispute such statements, and passed a most pleasant evening, our friends not taking their departure till ten o’clock.

Whilst we were entertaining their Excellencies, Daireh entertained a select circle of eighteen, comprising the Pasha’s pipe-bearer, head- cook, and other attendants. Hospitality was ever the order of the day in the kitchen, and the outer court was always full of curiosity dealers and the servants of our visitors, who brought a pipe-bearer and sometimes as many as four servants.

The next morning we had arranged to start for an excursion, and at sunrise our party, consisting of the European residents, my brother and myself, and three servants with pipes, &c., were ready to mount our several dromedaries. The saddles are different from any we have yet seen; the grass hunches are superseded by leather cushions, and a comfortable leather seat is placed on the extreme points of the saddle, which is covered with red or blue sheep-skin. It is fastened by four leather girths, which being very tight, never give even during the fastest trot. Were it otherwise, with the common dromedary saddles we have hitherto used, we could not have held on a quarter of an hour at the pace we went. The bridles are as superior as the saddles, and the dromedaries equally first-rate.

We proceeded to the White River, and thence to a village, where we sat under a tree on the people’s bedsteads, smoked, and drank some of their abominable beer. We beheld one of the prettiest groups we have yet noticed: a mother and four daughters under a shed; two of the latter, remarkably pretty little girls about seven or eight years old, were caressing a baby, whilst the eldest, a beautiful woman, was plaiting the hair of her younger sister, which was very long and bushy, yet quite clean and combed out—in a very different condition to what it will be a few days hence, from the united operation of dust and castor-oil. A few cows and goats completed the picture.

One of the gentlemen had been very amusing, and now offered to marry one of the girls; but they unanimously declined, believing that he was a Turk. Assured that his embroidered jacket, white trowsers, and red top- boots had deceived them, they then refused, because he might take them away.

Though the Nubian women are not exactly what can be called beautiful, they are almost always of fine proportions; their height generally five feet six inches, with well-turned limbs, beautifully moulded neck and shoulders, and very good complexion. By way of drawback to these advantages, they have large lips, tinged with blue, eyebrows dyed with henna, and hair falling in little plaits around their heads, often ignorant of comb and brush, and matted with grease.

Their eyes are large, sweet and soft in expression, generally black, though often blue. In every movement, they betray a native grace and elegance, which not all European belles attain, particularly the younger girls, who are frequently very attractive; the largeness of the lip not being fully developed, and their blue eyes possessing a brighter tint than that seen in their seniors. They marry before twelve and thirteen, and are already old at twenty. Their appearance is certainly not improved by the habit they have of gashing their faces, with seven or eight cuts on the upper part of each cheek. This custom is followed by the men, who repeat the operation on their breasts.

On our return, we went to see the collection of Monsieur Nicola, a naturalist, now on the White Nile; the birds were numerous, and were very well stuffed; many of extreme beauty, were quite new to us. We saw a stuffed ant-eater of great size, a live eagle, and a cat from the upper country; and were extremely gratified with our visit.

My mother and sister called on Madame Latiffe Pasha, who received them very handsomely in her new residence adjoining our garden. She is lady- like and pretty; and was becomingly dressed in a tight Greek jacket, covered with gold-lace, and full blue silk trousers. She showed them over her house, which is the only well-built one in the country, gave them coffee in the usual gold filigree cups, which shared their admiration with the embroidered napkins, table-covers, and velvet work, that had been executed by herself. She did not appear to be very young—about twenty—was tall, and remarkably playful. All accounts of these imprisoned beauties resemble each other, and tend to make one believe that even here, if the ladies were educated, and treated like their European sisters, they would maintain quite as respectable a position in society.

Bayoumi Effendi came to see us to-day, and indulged in a long grumble for the third time. I can always sympathize with any one who happens to be reduced to grumbling, and knowing what a relief it is, I encouraged our friend till he had exhausted his resources in this line; and then he left us in a state of mind almost to be envied.

We were constantly employed in receiving and paying visits. Every one called to pay his parting compliments, and we could not be outdone in such civility. Sometimes we had little remembrances, and sometimes gave them—one trifle in this way created a sensation throughout the entire civilized community. The apothecary gave us two chairs, and we returned the gift with forty potatoes. The fame of this vegetable quickly brought us more applicants than we could supply. They are entirely unknown here, having but once penetrated to these remote regions, and then only in an unsatisfactory state. We were extremely glad to deprive ourselves of a few dishes, that our kind friends might have an opportunity of cultivating so rare a luxury in their gardens.

Lastly we paid our respects to the Pasha, who, surrounded by the grandees of the place, received us with his usual kindliness. We thanked him for all favours—but before we parted he insisted on showing a horse of his, which a cavalry officer was exercising. It was a small well-made animal, beautifully trained. I much admired his changing feet when going rapidly round in a small circle—but could not appreciate the suddenness with which he was pulled up on his haunches, when galloping at the speed of from fifteen to twenty miles an hour. In Turkish ideas this is very clever—but is easy to do—requiring little more than a very strong bit; the use of which, however, must entirely spoil the poor creature’s mouth.

Daireh was sent round the town to tip all the functionaries, which necessitated an expenditure of many dollars of backsheesh. The Governor sent us charcoal, and other things that were wanted. Afterwards his grooms and servants came to ask for boots, European trousers, &c., for all the world as though we had stocked ourselves with the contents of a London “Mart of Fashion.” One soldier, a deserter from the army now acting against the Abyssinians on the Atbarah, came to beg us to intercede for him; but we tried to explain the English law on desertion, and declined interfering. Lastly came Riffa Bey, with many letters; the ordinary post never troubling itself about the correspondence of persons like himself, labouring under the disgrace of banishment. Indeed, some of the Europeans remain several years without hearing from their friends.