Chapter II: Part 2

=Jigger=--a small tackle for general use; a double block with a tail called a jigger and a single block with a hook. The standing part of the fall is spliced into the strop of the single block. Power gained--three or four times.

=Handy Billy= is a small tackle for general use.

=Up and Down Tackle=--a double and single block. The double block is fitted with a thimble, the single block is a hook block, fitted with a long strop. The standing part of the fall is spliced in the strop of the single block. Power gained--three times.

=Luff Tackle=--two hook blocks, one double and one single. The standing part of the fall of this tackle is spliced into a strop of the single block. It is sometimes rove through a becket in the single block and secured by being spliced round the strop at the neck of it. Power gained--three or four times.

=Double Luff Tackle=--two double blocks.

=Three-fold Purchase=--two three-fold blocks. Power gained--six or seven times.

FOUR-FOLD PURCHASE

SINGLE SPANISH BURTON

DOUBLE SPANISH BURTON]

=Four-fold Purchase=--two four-fold blocks. Power gained--eight times.

=Single Spanish Burton=--two blocks and a hook. Power gained--three times. It is not in general use.

=Burton=--a double hook block and a single hook block, fitted with a long strop, the standing part being spliced round the strop and hook of the single block. Power gained--three times.

=Runner and Tackle=--consists of three blocks, one double and two single. One of the single blocks is fitted with a thimble, as a lashing or shackling block, through which the runner is rove. The double block of the tackle is turned in one end of the runner. The standing part of the tackle is spliced in the seat of the single block which is fitted with a long strop and hook. Power gained--eight times.

=Double Spanish Burton=--There are two forms of this purchase. One by using three single blocks and the other by using one double and two single blocks. Power gained--five times.

=A Spanish Windlass=--To rig a Spanish windlass take a good strand well greased in the center. Place the strand over the two parts of the rope that are to be hove together and bringing the ends of the strand up again, place a bolt close to the strand. Take the ends of the strand and lay them up with their own parts so as to form two eyes. Take a round turn with this round the bolt, put a marlinespike in each eye and heave around.

=A Parbuckle= is used for hauling up or lowering down a cask, or any cylindrical object where there is no crane or tackle. Middle the rope to be used for the parbuckle, place the bight over a post or pin as most convenient; the two ends are then passed under the two quarters of the cask, bring the ends back again over it and they both being hauled taut or slackened together either raise or lower the cask as may be required. Care must be taken to keep an equal strain on both parts to prevent the cask slipping out.

There are several methods of slinging a cask, viz., with butt slings, bale slings and head up, also by means of can hooks.

=A Butt Sling= is a single piece of rope fitted with an eye splice in one end and the other end pointed or whipped. To sling the cask, the cask is placed on its bilge bung up; reeve the end of the sling through the eye splice and place the loop thus formed over one end of the cask between the first and second hoops and haul well taut, the eye splice being in line with the bungs; then take the end of the sling round the other end of the cask between the first and second hoops and clove-hitch it to its own part in line with the bung.

=A Bale Sling= is a single piece of rope short spliced together. To sling a cask, the cask is placed on its bilge bung up, the slings passed underneath both ends of the cask between the first and second hoops; the bights are then taken over the cask, and one bight passed through the other, taking care the cross is in line with the bung.

=Can Hooks= are used for breaking off a cask, that is for lifting out the first cask of a tier where there is not room to put on a butt or bale sling. Casks are never hoisted up with can hooks.

=To pass a life line= dip the end under the slings and over the davit and take two or three turns round all parts and hold on to the end.

To pass a life line for a “full due” proceed as above but substitute half hitches for round turns and tuck the end in.

=To sling a cask= head up the cask is placed on its end, pass a rope under the bottom fairly in the center, then form an overhand knot with both ends of the rope on the top of the cask, open the knot out and place bights over the head between the first and second loops, haul them well taut, then reef-knot both ends together on top.

=A Stropper= is used for securing a rope while it is being belayed. Take the stropper in the left hand, make a half hitch against the lay, dog the end with the lay of the rope and seize it. With left-handed rope the end of the stropper should be passed under the rope from left to right. To put a strop on a hemp rope, center the bight of the strop and place it over the rope, then dog the ends opposite ways under and over, and hook on the tackle to both bights.

=To put a strop on a Spar= use the ordinary bale sling strop.

TO PAN A STROPPER

TO PUT A STROP ON A SPAR

TAIL JIGGER]

=A Tail Jigger= is similar to a stropper but with an additional turn. To put on a tail jigger take the first two parts of a rolling hitch, dog the end with the lay and seize it.

FASTENINGS, MOORINGS AND RING KNOTS

A landsman is always fascinated by the ease with which the sailor will handle big ropes and the way in which he will warp a vessel in or out of a dock or moor it to a pier by the simple twisting of the cable round a post or cleat which are on the vessels themselves or on the pier-head.

=The Simple Stoppered Loop= is familiar to all and when the end of the rope can be constantly used no other fastening is required.

=A Lark’s Head= can easily be made over a post when there is a running noose or knot. This is clearly shown in the diagram.

=The Waterman’s Knot= is used when the end of the rope is not stoppered or when the middle of the rope must be used. This is similar to the clove hitch. It can very quickly be made by placing two loops on the rope as shown in the diagram.

The holding power of a twisted rope is illustrated clearly in the diagram to the right of the Waterman’s Knot.

=The Chain Fastening= is of a more permanent character, and is used when a vessel is to be moored for any length of time.

Square moorings or sheaves are occasionally used for the mooring of vessels. In these instances the fastenings vary. The diagram shows a double fastening to sheaves.

=A loop fastening to sheaves= may be tied or untied without untying the loop itself. It is made by passing the loops, =A=, =B=, =C=, =D=, and =E= as shown and then placing the loop =F= over the head of the right-hand post of the sheaves. When slackened the loop of the cable =F= will again slip over the head of the post and the turns and then reversed. There is a more simple fastening by wrapping the cable round the angle of the sheaves.

=The crossed and square fastenings= as shown in the diagrams need no explanation. The ends are secured by being stoppered to the cable.

To secure a rope round a cleat first take a round turn, then a figure of 8 knot is made round the cleat pin and repeated twice. On no account should a half hitch be made over the pin or cleat afterwards. The main object is to insure that the rope will not jamb.

A study of the many knots used for fastenings or moorings show that they are only practical applications of many of the knots, bends or hitches that have already been illustrated in preceding chapters of this book.

=The Sailor’s Knot= is a very simple mooring knot for the painter of a small boat. It is shown on Figs. 1 and 2. This knot shows one line straight while the end is twisted round in two hitches.

=The Slippery Ring Knot= is shown in Fig. 3. It can be cast off at any moment. Fig. 4 shows the same knot but it is made permanent by being stoppered as seen in Fig. 4. The slippery ring knot has one turn in the ring.

=The Simple Boat Knot=, Fig. 5, has an advantage for rapidity of unmooring. It is made with only one turn in the ring. The loose end is left longer than in the diagram but as it sometimes catches in the ring it is not very popular with sailors.

=The Lark Boat Knot=, Fig. 6, is really a double boat knot. It differs from the boat knot in that a bight instead of a single end of rope is put through the ring and a thole used to fasten it.

=The Boat Knot=, Fig. 7, is made in the same way as the marlinespike hitch, the only difference being that a thole pin or other small piece of wood is put through the center of the knot instead of a marlinespike. By withdrawing the pin the knot comes adrift of its own accord.

=Simple and Crossed Running Knots= are shown in Figs. 8 and 9. The simple fastening, Fig. 8, is not so secure, but chafes less than the crossed running knot, Fig. 9.

=The Capstan Knot=, Fig. 10, is an application of the figure of 8 knot. To make this cross the end of the rope after it is through the ring, bring it round the standing part, through the first bight and through its own bight.

=The Lark’s Head Knot=, Fig. 11, is somewhat like the lark boat knot but instead of the ends being brought down outside the bight after being passed through the ring, they are put through it. This is seen in the ring part of Fig. 11. The whole illustration shows a Lark’s Head stoppered.

=The Lark’s Head Stoppered= may be made by passing a bight through the ring and drawing the two parts of the rope through the bight. Where this is not practical by reason of one end of the rope being fast, the end may be passed up through the ring behind the standing part and drawn down through the right and bight again. Sometimes instead of being stoppered with an overhand knot as seen in Fig. 11 the end is seized to the standing part with twine, as shown in Fig. 12.

=The Lark’s Head with Crossed Ends= in Fig. 13 is made in the same way as the Lark’s head except that the end comes over instead of through the bight. If the standing part is taken in one hand and the end in the other and drawn apart this knot is the clove hitch or builder’s knot.

=The Double Lark’s Head=, Fig. 14, is easily followed in the diagram. A bight is first made and the ends passed through it, the ends are then put through the ring and through the loop already made and hauled taut.

=The Treble Lark’s Head=, Fig. 15, is not as difficult as it appears in the diagram. First bring the bight of the rope up through the ring, then take one of the ends and pass it through the bight and up through the ring. Then put it down through its own bight. Do the same with the other part and the knot is formed.

=Back-Handed Sailors’ Knots= are shown in Figs. 16 and 17. This knot is made by passing an end through the ring round at the back of the standing part and through the ring again, finishing with two half hitches round the standing part.

=Slip Knots= stoppered as shown in Fig. 18 and above are easily made and the diagrams show their formation clearly.

=Slip Knot secured by a slip clinch= is another simple knot and easily followed in the diagram.

=The Gunner’s Knot= is simply a carrick bend made with the two ends of a rope after it has been passed through two rings. This is sometimes called a delay knot.

=Securing Lead Line to Lead.=--The lead is fitted with a good wire grommet parcelled over. The lead line should have a long eye spliced in it and is secured by passing the eye through the grommet and over the lead.

=Hawsers= are bent together by two half hitches and seizing the ends in addition to methods already explained.

=Mousing a hook= is to prevent a chain or rope from slipping off or to prevent it becoming unhooked. A few turns of a rope yarn are passed round the ends of the hook and the standing part, the ends are brought round the middle a few times and fastened with a reef knot.

LASHINGS, SEIZINGS, ETC.

A practical knowledge of the proper way to lash a rope is necessary to anyone who has anything to do with a vessel no matter what its character. Occasions constantly occur on sea and on land, in fair weather and foul, to unite ropes on the bight or that are fitted with eyes or with other loops.

=A Running knot fastened in the eye of a rope= is the simplest of these knots. The diagram shows how this is made.

=The Dead-Eye Lashing= is one of frequent use on board full-rigged ships. It admits of easy adjustment to the strain of the ropes. The ram blocks are fastened in the eyes, which are made by simple lashings and tightened by the lanyards, =A=, =A=, which pass through holes on the dead-eye, so as to tighten or slacken the rope at will. The ends of the lanyard are fastened to the main rope.

=The Belaying-Pin Splice= as shown in the diagram really illustrates three methods of joining cordage. The belaying pin is marked =A=. It is stoppered on the end of the rope and served with yarn, passed through the eye of the rope and at the other end a loop is formed. Through this loop or bend a button secured to the rope, =B=, by a single knot is passed, and the double junction is complete.

=The Wedding Knot= or =Rose Lashing= is one to join two rope ends both having eyes. The lashing is passed successively through both eyes and then tied in the center.

=The Shell Lashing= is made by looping two ends of rope around a spherical shell and seizing the end to the standing parts.

=A Cross Lashing= is used when a lever is used to a rope. After several turns round the rope, the lashing is crossed round the lever and fastened with a reef knot.

=The Portuguese Knot= or =Necklace Tie= is made by taking several turns round the spars to be joined, then two turns round the lashings and secured with a reef knot.

=Nippering= or =Packing= is a method for securing two ropes together with cross turns. These are hauled taut and further secured by round turns over all after the ropes have been jammed together. The ends are fastened with a reef knot.

=A West Country Whipping= is formed by middling the twine around the part of the rope to be marked and half-knotting it at every half turn so that each knot will be on opposite sides. When a sufficient number of turns are passed finish it off with a reef knot.

To finish off a whipping without showing a knot lay one end forward as at =A= in the diagram, then pass the other end round and round a sufficient number of times, hauling taut each time. Three or four loose turns are then made and the end passed under these backwards. These ends are worked down into their places and when they are hauled taut are cut off.

Another method is, instead of having a single end, a bight of the seizing is laid along the part to be whipped and the turns passed over it. When these are completed the end is passed through the bight at =A=. The end =B= is then hauled upon to bring the bight and the end of the rope snug under the coils. There are now two loops interlacing at the center of the work and these cannot come undone. When the ends are cut off close to the turns the whole is fair and smooth.

A useful band is shown in the diagram above. The second end =B= is drawn through by a turn--a very useful method of securing a ligature or a fractured fishing rod.

=The Packing Knot= is used for binding timbers together. The first diagram shows it started at =A= and =B= shows it completed. It is tightened by means of a packing-stick, =C=, which is twisted under the knot and then twisted round and secured as shown. A quicker plan is two toggles shown in the second diagram. After twisting the sticks round tie the two ends of the sticks together.

=A Toggle= is a piece of wood turned to shape and having a groove in the center round which the end of a rope is spliced. An eye is made in another rope by any method and the toggle is slipped into it. To unfasten it the ropes are slackened. Another form of toggle is a round piece of wood shaped like a button. It has a hole in the center through which a rope is passed and the end knotted.

=The Jury=, or =Double Pitcher Knot= as it is sometimes called, is useful when a jury mast has to be rigged, as the loops form a means of attaching the necessary supports to the mast. The center =K= in the second diagram is slipped over the masthead and the weight brought on the stays tightens it and holds it in its position on the mast.

It is formed by three ordinary half hitches each placed behind the other with the loop of the last laid over the first. Keep the hitches together with the right hand and with the left take =A= and dip it under =B= and pull =C= through =A= and =B=.

Then, holding the knot with the left hand, place =F= over =E= and pull =D= between =E= and =F=. Take =G= in the teeth and pull on the parts =G=, =F= and =A=. The ends =H= and =Z= may be either knotted or spliced.

=Racking Seizing= is used where the strain is on only one part of the rope. An eye splice is formed in one end of racking and the first turn is passed round both parts of the rope like a round seizing; it is then dipped between both parts and the remaining turns are passed as racking turns, over and under, leaving sufficient space between each racking turn for a roundabout turn to lie, the usual number taken being thirteen. After these are passed the end is dipped down inside the last turn and the roundabout turns are passed from the end towards the eye between the racking turns. When the last roundabout turn is passed, the end is passed up between both parts of the shroud, ready for passing the cross turns, which are passed by taking the end along the seizing and passing it down between the seventh and sixth turns along the seizing, again towards the eye, up between the two parts of the shroud, as before, and again drawn between the seventh and sixth turns so as to form a clove hitch. Then finish off with a crown and wall as in other seizings.

To make the racking neater after passing the last roundabout turn, the end is taken outside all parts of the racking instead of between the six and seven turns, and clove formed at the same time.

SPLICING AND ROPE WORK

It is sometimes necessary to unite hawsers, cables and even ropes in such a manner that there is no obvious difference in their diameter and no substantial weakening of their strength. This can be done only by splicing, that is, putting the ends together by opening the strands and placing them into one another, or if equal diameter is not essential by putting strands of the end of a rope between those of a bight. When ropes are knotted they cannot be run through a block. In driving ropes, too, knotting is out of the question. It is calculated that a splice will weaken the strength of a rope about one-eighth.

=A short splice= is used for joining any rope not needed to travel through a block.

To make a short splice unlay the rope to the required length which is twice the circumference of the rope for the long ends and one and a half times the circumference for the short ends. When this is done whip all the ends with yarn. The ends are then placed together as shown in the first diagram, the strands of one rope alternately between the strands of the other. The two ropes are then jammed closely together. The end of one rope with the strands of the other rope are now held firmly in the left hand. Sometimes it is better to put a lashing round the strands to keep them down to the rope on which they lie. The long ends are tucked in twice and the short ends once. Pass the left hand over the first strand next to it and underneath the second strand. Haul it taut in the lay of the rope. Then enter the right-hand strand and lastly the middle strand in a similar manner to the first or left-hand strand. Haul them taut along the lay of the rope. Put the long ends in again as before, cut the stop off the fork and put the short ends in once in a similar way. Stretch the splice, whip the ends and cut them off. If it is intended to serve over the splice, put the strands in once and a half each way, take a few of the underneath yarns from each strand to fill up the lay of the rope for worming, scrape the ends and marl them down ready for serving.

=The Long Splice= has many advantages over the short one. To make it unlay the ends of two ropes to the length of five and a half times the circumference of the rope. Crutch them together as for the short splice. Unlay one strand and fill up the vacant space which it leaves with the opposite strand next to it. Then turn the rope round and lay hold of the two next strands that will come opposite their respective lays. Unlay one filling up the vacant space, as before, with the other. Take one-third out of each strand, knot the opposite strands together and heave them well in place. Stick all six ends once under one strand. Having stretched the splice well cut off the ends.

=An Eye Splice= is used by seafarers to splice round a block, dead-eye or thimble and is formed by unlaying the end of a rope for a short distance and then laying three strands upon the standing part so as to form an eye. Put one end in the strand next to it in the same manner as for the short splice. Then put the next end over that strand and through the second and put the remaining end through the third strand on the other side of the rope. Taper them, divide the strands and put them in again. To finish off split the strands and take half of each, seizing them together, and cut the ends off. When serving is used the strands should be tapered off.

=A Chain Splice= is used for splicing hemp tails into chain when required to travel through a block or fairlead, such as earrings and outhauls for forecastle and quarterdeck awnings. To make a chain splice unlay strands rather more than for an eye splice, then unlay the strand, =A=, for a few inches. Reeve the two remaining strands, =B= and =C=, through the link in the end of the chain; continue unlaying the strand, =A=, and lay up strand, =B=, in its place for about a foot, then half knot it and tuck as for a long splice. Then tuck the strand =C= as for an eye splice.

=A Cut Splice= is made by laying two ropes in the position indicated in the upper diagram. Leaving the ropes between =A=, =A=, to form an oblong loop, tuck the strands of one rope into the other as done in the eye splice. Splices are often wormed, parcelled and served.

It is rather difficult to force apart the twisted strands of ropes. For this purpose a marlinespike is used for large ropes. This is made of iron, copper or hard wood. Copper is preferable as it does not rust like iron or break like wood. A steel pricker is used for small stuff. For very large ropes a fid, which is a tapered wooden pin usually made of lignum vitæ, is used.

=A Grommet= is a ring of rope. To make it cut a strand about three and one-half times the length of the grommet required. Unlay the rope carefully and keep the turns of the strand in. Close up the strand in the form of a ring as shown in the first diagram and then pass the ends round and round in their original lay until all the intervals are filled up as shown in the second diagram. Then finish off the two ends as in a long splice.

=An Artificial Eye= is made somewhat like a long splice. Take the end of a rope and unlay one strand; lay the two strands back to the standing part of the rope; pass the strand which has been unlaid over the end and in the intervals round the eye, until it returns down the standing part and lies under the eye with strands. Then divide the strands, taper them down and serve them over with spunyarn.

=The Flemish Eye= is a little more difficult to make. The rope is first whipped and the strands unlaid to the whipping and opened out, separating each rope yarn. Take a piece of wood the size of the intended eye, =A=, between and along it lay three or more stops, hitch over the yarns and tie with the overhand knot crossing them somewhat; seize the ends and worm them between the strands at the shoulder. Then marl all down, parcel and serve the ends.

=Throat Seizing= is made by opening the end slightly and lashing it to the standing part. The ring shown in the diagram is one of a variety occasionally used. It is useful to pass other ropes through in the rigging. Another ring is formed by lashing the two ends of a short piece of rope to the side of a long one, looping the short piece to give the requisite ring.

=A Selvagee= is used to form a neat stropping for blocks or to go round a spar to which a hook is to be fastened. To make a selvagee strop drive a couple of bolts or large nails into a piece of plank, or any convenient place, or else seize a couple of hooks which will answer the same purpose. Put the nails or hooks at the required distance apart, according to the length of strop needed. Take the end of a ball of rope yarn and make it fast to one of the spikes or hooks. Pass it round the other spike and keep passing roundabout turns, taking care to have every turn well taut until the strop is the required thickness. If it is to be a very large strop marl it down with spunyarn; if a small strop use two-rope yarn.

=To Lengthen a Rope of a Sail with a Single Strand.=--To do this is necessary when a sail is increased by the addition of, say, one cloth. Then the foot rope must be lengthened. Suppose the width of the cloth is 2 feet and the size of the rope 3 inches. After ripping the rope off four cloths, first cut the strand at the distance 2 feet 6 inches from each other, as shown in the diagram below.

Cut one strand at =A= and unlay it to =C=, then cut one of the remaining strands at =C= and unlay it to =B=, laying the strand =A= up again as far as =B=. Then cut the remaining strand at =B=, which will be the center, and the rope will be in two parts, as seen in the diagram above.

Now marry the long end =A= to the end =B=, then lay up the long strand =A= and marry it to the other strand =B=, as in the diagram below.

Take a strand about 10 feet in length of the same size rope and marry one end to the short strand =A=, as shown in the diagram. Fill up the space left from =A= to =C= by laying in the new strand and marry the other end to the short strand =C=. There will then be four splices to finish off as ordinary long splices.

A rope is wormed, parcelled or served to preserve it from wet or chafe.

=Worming= is done to fill up the space between the strands of the rope with spunyarn or small rope, to render the surface smooth and round for parcelling and serving.

=Parcelling= a rope is laying round it with the lay of the rope strips of clad canvas, tarred, from 2 to 3 inches wide according to the size of the rope, before serving it, the upper turn of the parcelling overlapping the upper edge of the turn below it.

=Serving= is covering the rope with coils of spunyarn or other small stuff laid on quite close. The spunyarn is put, or, hove on by a serving mallet which has a score in the underpart according to the size of the rope. Service is always laid on against the lay of the rope. The sailor’s adage says:

Worm and parcel with the lay.
And serve the rope the other way.

The end of the yarn is first secured by placing it under the first two or three coils. The serving mallet after being placed against the rope has two or three turns passed round its body and another turn or two on the handle. This enables the coils to be pulled taut as the mallet is worked round the rope by its handle. An extra man is needed for passing the ball of serving stuff. When the required length of service is put on, the end is put under the last two turns, hauled taut and cut off.

=To make a cringle= unlay a single strand from the rope the size the cringle is required to be. Whip both ends, reeve the strand through the left-hand eyelet-hole in the sail, keeping one end nearly a third longer than the other, keeping the roping of the sail toward you. If a thimble is to be put in the cringle, lay up the two parts of the strand together, counting three lays. Commence with the short end of the strands toward you, through the right-hand eyelet-hole, taking it through the cringle and it will be in right position to lay up in the vacant space left in the cringle. When done the one end will hand down inside the right-hand eyelet-hole and the other end outside the left-hand one. The ends are then hitched by being rove through their respective eyelet-holes and passed over the leech rope and under their own part, one hitch being towards you and the other from you. Then take the ends down under one strand on the right and two on the left of the cringle nearest to it. Tuck the ends under the first two strands nearest the hitch leaving them well in place. The cringle is then fidded out and the thimble is put in on the forward of the sail. The ends of the strands are then tucked back left-handed, under one strand, again under two right-handed as in the first place. Heave them taut in place at each tuck, whip the ends with two of their own yarns and cut off. If a large cringle is needed count an extra number of lays, 5, 7, 9, etc., always an odd number.

To finish a cringle off on a crown commence as already told. After laying up the strand together instead of forming a hitch with each end, the ends are rove through their respective eyelet-holes and tucked back under two strands of the cringle and again laid up as far as the crown forming a four-stranded cringle. It is finished off by tucking the ends under two strands and crossing them under the crown of the cringle and cut off close.

WIRE ROPE SPLICING

In splicing wire rope great care must be taken to prevent kinks getting into the rope or strands. Once a kink is made no amount of strain can take it out, and the rope is unsafe to work. If possible a turntable should be employed (an old cart wheel mounted on a spindle makes an excellent one)--the rope will then lead off perfectly straight without kinks.

With steel wire rope, always before working it put a stop on at the place to which you intend to unlay, and put a good whipping of twine at the end of each strand. In splicing wire all tucks are made against the lay of the rope.

In making an eye splice the rope is handled better if hung up in a convenient position, so that when standing up the eye will be at about the level of the chest of the person working.

A long, tapering steel marlinespike is required and after placing it under a strand do not withdraw it until the tuck is made and all the slack of the strand drawn through.

To make a neat splice do not haul the part of the rope that has not been unlaid too close to the neck of the splice, and in tucking the strands never take a short nip, but take long lays.

In unlaying for a long splice always unlay two strands simultaneously to keep the rope in its original lay. For a fair-sized rope unlay about 9 feet of each end.

Proceed as in rope splicing and after the three pairs of strands are in their places, single them and continue to unlay and lay in until the six meeting places of the strands are equidistant.

To finish off the ends properly can only be learned by observation and actual practice. By using two marlinespikes the hempen heart is removed and the ends of the wire strands forced into the place it occupied, making a very neat job when finished.

Wire splices should be parcelled with oily canvas and served.

=Short Splice.=--The same procedure is gone through as for splicing hemp rope, only care must be taken to place a good whipping on where the ends marry, and that each strand prior to unlaying is whipped. The number of tucks taken should never be less than three whole and one-half and one-third, so as to taper the splice off. The number of tucks to be taken off varies according to the work required of the rope or strop, but as a rule the more the better.

In tucking wire strands the strand should be entered in front of the marlinespike, which should not be withdrawn until this has been done, care being taken not to kink the strand.

=Eye Splice.=--Make the crown of the eye, take half the girth of the thimble and rope to be used and put a good stout whipping on to the wire, break the wire into shape of the thimble and heave both parts of the wire together by means of the rigging screws supplied for this purpose. Put a good seizing of spun yarn around both sides of the wire and thimble at the ends of the latter. Then remove the rigging screws and unlay the end of the wire as far as the whipping, open each strand and remove the hemp heart by cutting it off. Then put a whipping on the ends of the six strands, commence the splice by tucking the right-hand strand first, then the others in succession, each strand under one. The left-hand strand being the last is tucked under two. This ensures that each strand takes a fair strain. Care should be taken to keep the strands straight. When all have been tucked once, beat well down with an iron hammer and put on a good seizing of spun yarn. Then tuck each strand a second time. Wire 2½ inches and over should be tucked three times full and tapered to a third.

=Steel Wire Hawsers.=--The splices of the wire are made against the lay of the rope tucked three times with the full size of the strand and a fourth time with the strand reduced one-half; to make a more suitable taper, each tuck is drawn tightly in the direction of the lay of the rope. The center core of the rope is removed on opening out the strands for splicing, and the cores of the strands removed after the first tuck has been made. The first tuck is taken at one and a half times the girth of the thimble plus the circumference of the rope. The splice is then parcelled and served, the thimble tightly seized in with flat seizing crossed.

=Splicing Wire Rope into an Endless Band.=--This can be done either by the long or short splice, but the former is recommended, as the short splice, though equally strong, leaves a thick place in the rope. In the long splice, if properly made, no such inequality exists; indeed the spliced part should be difficult to locate.

To make a long splice a rope say 3½-inch circumference should have a splice not less than 60 feet to be safe, and smaller sizes in proportion down to 1½-inch circumference, for which size 25 feet will do. Take the 3½-inch rope as an example.

Measure 30 feet off each end of the rope and put a sound marline serving at those points. Then cut off the end servings and tie the strands together in twos and interlock, as shown in the diagram.

Lashings should only be cut off when parts are quite close together, otherwise rope has a tendency to open out further back and thus throw the length wrong. Then open strands out singly and snip off short six of the ends, three on either side, alternately. That is to say, leave a long end in each case opposite one of the snipped ends. Take each of the short ends in turn and carefully unlay them, at the same time laying in its place the corresponding long end.

This should be done with all the strands, and reckoning from the center on each side, the first one should be taken away 25 feet, the second 15 feet, and the third 5 feet. This will divide the splice up equally as shown in the lower diagram.

Then commence at the first strand at either end. First put the marlinespike through the center of the rope where the ends cross, cut and remove the hemp heart for about a foot. Then by the aid of the two spikes force the strand into place of heart just removed and follow up to the end of the strand, pulling out the heart a few inches at a time.

Repeat with all twelve ends, taking care that no empty space is left in the center of the rope by cutting of the hemp core further away than the strand end will reach. It is a good plan to marl or wrap each end with parcelling before it is put into the center of the rope, as this tends to give parts of the splice a good grip of one another. To finish off and remove inequalities, lay the splice on deck and hammer with a heavy wooden mallet.

MATTING

=A Paunch Mat= is used as a protection from chafe on shipboard. Stretch a piece of rope according to the size of the mat required in a horizontal position and fasten each end. Across this hanging by their middles, foxes are placed. Foxes are two or more rope yarns twisted together by hand and each rubbed down with tarred canvas or a handful of rope yarn. Beginning with the fox nearest the left hand twist a turn in the two parts and give one part to the man opposite. The next fox has a turn twisted in its two parts and one part is given to the opposite man. The other part is twisted round the first which is given to the partner and then again round its own part with the other foxes until the required breadth is reached. Then as no more foxes are added and the outside on the right is brought over from time to time, a selvage is formed as on the left side. There is a little difficulty in starting but afterwards all will go along very easily. Each fox from the right passes over the next one to it on the left and is pushed back. The one that has been passed over being taken up first over the next and pushed back as before. Each twist should be pressed tight as it is made. When the mat is deep enough a selvage is made by straining another piece of cord along the bottom securing both ends. As each fox comes down it is half hitched to this and the next fox is laid at the back of it and so on alternately.

=Sword Matting= is used for boats, gripes, etc. Two iron bars are slung in a horizontal position at the required distance apart for warping the mat off. Hitch one end of the warp which is of spunyarn to the bar at the end of which it is intended to finish the mat. The other end is then rove through the first hole in the loom over and under the other bar back through the first slit, over and under the other bar and so on until as many parts as are required for the breadth needed have been laid out. The last end is rove through a slit and secured to the bar at the end the mat is to be finished. When this is done lift the loom up, middle the fittings and lay it between the upper and lower parts. Then lower the loom and the parts that were lowest will rise in the slits and become the uppermost and thus put a cross in the warp.

A piece of wood made in the shape of a knife, called a sword, is then inserted between the alternate parts of the warp and the crossing is driven close to the head against the bar over which the warp for weaving the mat is passed. Then turn of filling is passed to secure the crossing, reeving the ends through contraryways. Haul it taut, take out the sword, lift up the loom and continue to pass the filling. Half knot it with two turns. To finish off splice the mat. The loom is usually made of a piece of copper sheet with alternate holes and slits in it.

=To Splice a Sword Mat= unlay 6 or 7 inches of the mat, open the ends out, marry them together laying one up and one down flat along the mat. Withdraw the nettles on one side of one mat and point the nettles of the other mat through the holes they will come out of. All ends will then disappear from that side and there will be four rows of ends on the other. Turn the mats over, pick out the proper nettles of the side which have been married together, withdraw the ends belonging to one mat and introduce the corresponding ends of the other mat through the holes. Perform this operation on each mat and on each side there will be two rows of ends. Marry these ends together on each side laying one up and one down and go on splicing by withdrawing and reeving for two or three rows more in each mat. Leave off with the ends all out on the same side and finish off as with selvaging.

A cobbler’s stitch is used for joining the sides of sword mats together. Take a filling of roping twine, middle it and reeve each end through two bights in each mat (if a heavy mat through three bights at each side). Then reeve the lowermost end back through the same bights as the upper end which will bring the ends out at opposite sides. Draw the mats together and reeve both ends through two turns in each mat again, passing each other through the same hole opposite ways. Keep on doing this like stitching the sole of a shoe, hence the reason for calling it a cobbler’s stitch. Finish off each end by taking a hitch through a bight in the mat of the next lay above and cut off the ends.

=A Thrum Mat= is made of canvas and short yarns of equal length. These yarns are rove through holes stabbed in the canvas, both ends of the yarns being on the same side.

=A Common Sennit= is made by taking three or four nettles according to the need required. Middle them over a belaying pin and plait three or four together the length it is intended to make the eye. Then work both parts together to form an eye and plait them by bringing the outside nettles on each side alternately over to the middle. The outside one is laid with the right hand and the remainder held firmly with the left hand. Work the whole together adding a nettle when necessary. After the eye is properly formed drop a yarn and continue to the end with an odd number. When it is of sufficient length lessen it by dropping a nettle at regular intervals. To finish it lay one end up, leaving its bight down and plait the other ends through this bight until they are all worked through it. Then haul on the end till the bight is taut. To secure all parts cut off the ends and whip it.

=A Square Sennit= is made somewhat in the same manner as the round sennit but without a heart. Nettles are used in the same ratio increasing by fours. Having put a whipping round the (eight) ends divide the nettles, and lay half on each side. Bring the uppermost left-handed nettle round underneath all and up inside two and over two of the right-handed ones. Cross over the latter ones to the left and make four on each side again. Then take the uppermost to the right-handed nettles, pass it underneath and under two and over two of the left-handed ones, still keeping four on a side, because the nettle taken up always comes round to its own side again. To proceed take the upper nettle on each side alternately and finish off as the round sennit is finished.

=A Fender= is used to protect the sides of a boat. Sometimes it is made of wood but more often is of canvas stuffed with oakum and painted.

To make a soft fender take a piece of Manilla rope double the length of the fender. Unlay it, open the strands and comb them until all the yarns lie straight. Double it and clap an eye-seizing on it, marling it down as shown in the diagram. A lanyard of small cords, such as log-line, is then spliced into the eye.

=A Round or Pudding Fender= is made of a center or heart of rope yarn worked over a grafted with short pieces of rope yarn nettles. The nettles are first cut to the proper length and the middle part slightly twisted. They are then brought snugly round a thimble and a seizing put on. The heart or pudding may be of any old stuff such as old strands, spunyarn, etc. This is put into its place and the nettles laid evenly over it. Half the nettles taken alternately are turned back over the eye and the other left lying down the heart. Pass a turn or two of twine or marline called the warp or filling round the fender where the nettles separate and hitch it. The nettles turned back must now be brought down and those that are down turned over the eye. The warp is now passed again and hitched as before. This must be repeated until the whole of the fender is covered with a woven coat as shown in the diagram. The ends of the nettles are brought round last turn of the warp and interlaced in the grafting.

A simple weaving apparatus is shown in the diagram by which mats may easily be made. Take two pegs about 15 to 18 inches long, and drive them into the ground or attach them to a board so as to be firm.

These should stand about a foot out of the ground. Then take a stick or a piece of wood and lash it across the upright stakes. Next drive a row of pegs into the ground. These pegs should be at equal distances apart, not to exceed 6 inches, and parallel with the lashed stick. Two sets of strings are then tied to the cross stick. The ends of one set are fastened to the sticks and the ends of the other set to a staff held in the hands, as shown in the diagram. If there are a dozen strings, then the odd numbered should be fastened to the sticks and the even numbered to the staff. By alternately raising and depressing the staff, placing a handful of straw or rushes between the strings at each movement and making them lie close, a good mat is made. These mats may be joined together with the cobbler’s stitch or by tying the string ends together.

The =Malay Hitch= is a name given by Captain Galton, a noted traveler, to a method for fastening boards or planks together to make a shelter. The cord is twisted once and then as each board is inserted this twist holds them sufficiently tight for temporary purposes.

HAMMOCK MAKING

At the mention of a hammock one’s mind naturally reverts to the sailor and at the same time thinks of the pleasure a good hammock will afford under some shady tree or on a sheltered piazza. Hammock making is quite easy and the tools necessary are simple. First, a netting needle is required. There are two styles of these needles, which are shown in the diagram. In the top one the cord is brought round the end at =A=, up one side, round the pin at =B= and back the same side, the process being repeated on the other side of the needle. This needle is made of hardwood such as boxwood, and is 8 inches long by ¾ inch wide.

The needle shown in the middle diagram has the cord wound round it as in an ordinary shuttle.

The mesh stick, the lower illustration, which also shows a cross section, is made of hardwood or bone and is about 5 inches long and oval in shape.

At one end of the string to be used for the net, tie a loop and place the knot on a nail fixed in some convenient position. Place the mesh stick under the loop as shown by =A= in the diagram, put the cord under it, then pass the needle through the loop and pull the cord taut.

Now place the thumb of the left hand on the cord beyond the loop, as shown in the next diagram, and with a turn of the wrist of the right hand throw the cord to the position shown at =B=, then pass the needle under the loop =C=, through the bight =B= and down as at =D= and draw the knot tight.

When this has been done the loop will assume the shape seen in the diagram illustrating the third meshing stage. The cord must be held firmly with the thumb at =A= when pulling up the knots, as the uniformity of the meshes depends on this.