Chapter II: Part 2

Take six nice fat crabs, wash them, and while _alive_ chop off the claws; then clean the rest of the crabs carefully and lay them in a dish. Chop up two onions fine, fry them in a tablespoonful of butter and lard mixed; when brown and soft stir in a large spoonful of flour, which must also brown nicely; throw in some chopped parsley and a little green onion, and when they are cooked pour on a quart of boiling water--this is the gravy. Now put in the crabs without parboiling. Let them simmer in the gravy for half an hour, and serve with boiled rice. Parboiling crabs destroys their flavor; they should be alive to the last moment.

SOFT-SHELLED CRABS, FRIED

Clean the crabs properly, dip them into rolled cracker, and fry them in hot lard salted. They must be dried carefully before frying, or they will not brown well. Serve with any favorite sauce.

TO DRESS A TURTLE

Cut off the head and let it bleed well. Separate the bottom shell from the top with care, for fear of breaking the gall bag. Throw the liver and eggs, if any, into a bowl of water. Slice off all the meat from the under-shell and put in water also; break the shell in pieces, wash carefully and place it in a pot; cover it with water, and add one pound of middling or flitch of bacon with four chopped onions. Set this on the fire to boil. (If preferred, open and clean the chitterlings or intestines also--some use them.) Let this boil gently for four hours; keep the liver to fry. While the under-shell is boiling, wash the top-shell neatly, cut all the meat out, cover it up and set it by. Parboil the fins, clean them perfectly; take off the black skin and throw them into water. Now cut the flesh removed from both shells into small pieces; cut the fins up; sprinkle with salt, cover and set them by. When the pot containing the shells, etc., has boiled four hours, take out the bacon, scrape the shell, clean and strain the liquor, pour back in the pot about one quart, and put the rest by for the soup (Turtle Soup No. 2). Pick out the nice pieces strained out, and put with the fins in the gravy. Add to the meat one bottle of wine, one gill mushroom catsup, one gill of lemon pickle, cloves, nutmeg, salt, pepper, and one pound fresh butter rolled in flour. Stew together; take out the herbs, thicken with flour and put in the shell to bake with a puff paste around it. Trim with eggs.

“GRENOUILLES FRITES,” OR FRIED FROGS

Use only the hind-quarters of the frogs. After washing them in warm water, soak well; then put them into cold vinegar with a little salt, and let them remain one or two hours, after which throw them into scalding water, and remove the skin without tearing the flesh. Wipe them dry, dust flour on them and fry in butter or sweet oil, with plenty of chopped parsley. When brown, dust pepper and a little salt over them, and garnish with crisped parsley. Stewed frogs are seasoned with butter, wine, beaten eggs and parsley chopped fine.

TERRAPIN

Like crabs and lobsters, terrapins are thrown alive into boiling water and let boil till the outer shell and toe-nails can be removed. Then wash and boil them in salted water till the fleshy part of the leg is tender. Put them in a bowl or deep dish, take off the second shell, remove the sand bag and gall bladder, and cut off the spongy part. Cut up the meat, season it with salt, pepper, cayenne and mace, thicken with butter and flour, and cook. Just before serving put in a gill of sherry wine for every terrapin, and pour all over hot buttered toast.

COLD MEATS AND HOW TO SERVE THEM

TO SERVE PICKLED OYSTERS

Take them from the pickle jar, put them into a glass dish, and ornament it with the tender, delicate leaves of celery and parsley. Serve with bread and butter sandwiches.

TO SERVE MEAT OR CHICKEN PIE

Lay a fringed napkin in a waiter or plate larger than the dish in which the pie is baked; set the pie on it; turn up the edges of the napkin against it, and put sprigs of parsley or delicate green leaves of celery on the edge of the plate to keep the napkin in place.

A NICE WAY TO SERVE COLD MEAT

Cut cold roast beef in slices, put gravy enough to cover them, add two tablespoonfuls of wine or catsup. If there is not enough gravy, make more by putting hot water and a good bit of butter, with a spoonful of browned flour. Let it stew gently. If liked, a sliced leek with a bunch of parsley may be added. Serve mashed potatoes with it. This is equal to beef a la mode.

GLAZING FOR TONGUE, HAMS, ETC.

Boil a shin of beef and a knuckle of veal for twelve hours in three or four quarts of water. Put in spices, herbs, and vegetables, the same as for soup; keep it boiling till it is reduced to a quart, then strain through a sieve and put away for use. This makes fine gravies, and is extremely useful to finish off baked hams, tongues, and cold roasts.

BRAISED TONGUE WITH ASPIC JELLY

Boil the tongue until tender, then place it in a stewpan with two onions, a head of celery, four cloves, and salt and pepper; cover it with the liquor it was boiled in; add to it a glass of brandy, a tablespoonful of sugar, a blade of mace, a bunch of thyme, and a bunch of parsley. Let it simmer gently for two hours. Take out the tongue, strain the liquor it was boiled in, and add to it a box of Cox’s gelatine which has been soaked in a goblet of cold water. Heat it and pour over the tongue. Serve cold.

SEASONING FOR SAUSAGE MEAT

Chop up and run your sausage meat through the cutter, and to every pound of the ground meat, allow a tablespoonful of salt, a teaspoonful of mixed black and red pepper, a quarter of a teaspoonful of saltpetre, and a half cup of sage and sweet marjoram. If you prefer it you may substitute for the sage some thyme and summer savory.

SEASONING FOR STUFFING VEAL, PIG OR TURKEY

When much seasoning is required it is well to keep it prepared on hand. It should always be kept well stopped. Dry a pound of salt; grind an ounce of white or black pepper; dry and powder two ounces of thyme and one of sweet marjoram; grate one ounce of nutmeg, and mix with half a pound of bread crumbs dried in a slow oven, three eggs, a quarter of a pound of butter or suet, and a cup of finely chopped parsley.

LIVER AND HAM FORCEMEAT FOR STUFFING

Take a calf’s liver, or the livers of three or four turkeys, or geese; lay them in cold water, till ready to use them; cut with them the same quantity of fat ham or bacon; throw them into a saucepan, and let them fry a good brown; season with salt, pepper, spices, chopped mushrooms, parsley and three shallots. When soft, chop them fine, or else pass them through a sausage grinder. This recipe can be used for raised pies, or as an addition to turkey stuffing.

AROMATIC SPICES FOR SEASONING MEAT PIES, ETC.

Take an ounce each of mace and nutmeg, two ounces of cloves, two of pepper corns (whole pepper will do), marjoram and thyme, each one ounce, bay leaves half an ounce. Dry the herbs well first; put the spices and herbs in a paper closely folded, to keep in the aroma, and place them in a slow oven to dry for an hour, or two; then pound and sift them, through a sieve. Cork tightly.

TRUFFLES AND CHESTNUT STUFFING FOR A PIG

Many persons like truffles for stuffing for a roast pig; they should be mixed with fat bacon, livers of veal or fowl, sweet herbs, pepper, salt and butter. Chestnut stuffing is prepared by roasting sixty chestnuts. Remove their hulls while hot, and pound them fine, add four ounces of butter, run this through a sieve, and add to it a few green onions, or chives, sweet basil, parsley and thyme; grate in a nutmeg, put in pepper and salt, and bind it with three eggs. Stuff the pig with it and serve with tomato sauce.

LIVER AND TRUFFLE STUFFING FOR A PIG OR TURKEY

Pare and cut into small pieces a pound of truffles, put them into a stewpan with a large spoonful of butter, one-half pound of fat bacon, chopped very fine; add a spoonful of black pepper, a clove of garlic, a little salt, a bunch of sweet basil and thyme, dried and powdered; add also half a pound of nice veal liver, boiled and grated. Set this all on the fire, let it cook until the truffles are soft, then mash with a wooden spoon; take it off to cool it, and stuff the pig with the forcemeat. Baste the pig with sweet oil, which is better than butter. It is supposed the pig comes from the butchers all ready for stuffing and baking. If the stuffing is desired for a turkey, add a quarter of a pound of bread crumbs and two beaten eggs, and baste the turkey with butter, instead of oil.

NICE FORCEMEAT, FOR STUFFINGS, ETC.

Take equal quantities of cold chicken, veal and beef; shred small and mix together; season with pepper, salt, sweet herbs, and a little nutmeg, _i. e._, if intended for white meat or anything delicately flavored, but if meant for a savory dish add a little minced ham, and garlic; pound or chop this very fine (it is well, and saves trouble, to run it through a sausage chopper), and make it in a paste with two raw eggs, some butter, marrow or drippings; stuff your joint, or poultry, and if there is some not used, roll it round the balls, flour them and fry in boiling lard. This is a nice garnish for a side dish.

SAUCES FOR MEATS AND GAME

NO. 1.--DUCK SAUCE

Boil six large onions; change the water two or three times, while it is boiling, which takes away the strong taste. When soft, chop and put them in a saucepan with two large spoonfuls of butter, a little pepper and salt; now add either mushroom catsup, a cup of vinegar or a cup of wine, whichever is preferred.

NO. 2.--BROWN ONION SAUCE FOR POULTRY, ETC.

Slice three onions after peeling them; fry them a bright brown in a spoonful of butter; sprinkle a little flour in, and let it brown also; add salt, pepper, and also sage, if for goose or duck, and parsley and thyme if for chickens or roast meat; add a cup of the liquor in which the fowl was cooked, let it boil up and add a tablespoonful of catsup.

NO. 3.--MUSHROOM SAUCE

Peel and wash the mushrooms, cut them in small pieces, and put them in a saucepan; cover them with water, and let them boil soft; then stir in butter, mixed in flour, until it is thick enough to form a nice sauce; add pepper and salt.

NO. 4.--MINT SAUCE FOR SPRING LAMB

Wash carefully a cup of tender green spearmint, chop it fine, and mix with it half a cup of sugar and a cup of good vinegar.

NO. 5.--WHITE ONION SAUCE

Peel and boil six white onions, and when tender pour off the water; chop the onions small, and add to them a cup of hot milk, a large spoonful of butter, and pepper and salt to taste. Thicken with a little flour if preferred.

NO. 6.--TOMATO SAUCE, PLAIN

Peel and slice twelve tomatoes, pick out the seeds; add three pounded crackers, salt and pepper; stir twenty minutes and serve.

NO. 7.--CRANBERRY SAUCE

Stew cranberries till soft; when soft, stir in sugar; scald a few minutes and strain, or not, just as you please; it is good either way.

NO. 8.--SALAD SAUCE OR DRESSING FOR LETTUCE

Take the yolks of two hard-boiled eggs, rub them to a paste in a bowl with a tablespoonful of mustard and one of sweet cream; add gradually two tablespoonfuls of sweet oil; when well mixed add the yolk of a raw egg, to give the paste a delicate smoothness; a little salt, a spoonful of sugar, and one tablespoon and a half of fine vinegar.

NO. 9.--SAUCE PIQUANTE FOR COLD MEAT

Slice two onions, fry them in butter; put them in a stewpan with a carrot, some sweet herbs, such as dried thyme or marjoram, two eschalots, some parsley and a clove of garlic; dredge in a spoonful of flour. When the carrot is perfectly done, mash it in the stewpan with a wooden spoon, and when smooth add to it a cup of soup stock. When this boils up, throw in a cup of strong vinegar. Add salt and pepper, and strain.

NO. 10.--BUTTER AND FLOUR SAUCE OR WHITE SAUCE

Mix a tablespoonful of butter and one of flour; mix over the fire, with a cup of cold water, stirring all the time. When this boils, take a quarter of a pound of fresh butter, if for a number of guests, and stir in the butter quickly, adding a cup of cold water by degrees, to keep the butter from oiling; finish with the juice of a lemon, and strain. It must be served hot, and made only a few moments before it is wanted. It gets oily if kept long. Add a spoonful of chopped parsley.

NO. 11.--CAPER SAUCE FOR BOILED MUTTON, ETC., ETC.

Take half a pint of butter sauce and add two tablespoonfuls of capers and a little salt.

NO. 12.--PARSLEY AND BUTTER SAUCE

Take half a pint of butter sauce No. 10, and add half a cup of chopped parsley and the juice of one lemon. Pour hot water on the parsley before chopping.

NO. 13.--LEMON SAUCE FOR FISH

To half a pint of butter sauce No. 10, add the juice of a lemon and another lemon sliced; take out the seeds, and let all boil together. This is good with broiled Spanish mackerel or pompano, also with broiled fish.

NO. 14.--SAUCE A L’AURORE, FOR FISH

Pound the spawn of a lobster very smooth, with a small piece of fresh butter, and press it through a sieve in the white sauce and a large spoonful of lemon juice, and set it over a clear fire to simmer for a minute or two, taking care it does not boil.

NO. 15.--SAUCE FROIDE

Mince quite fine some parsley, chervil, tarragon, chives and burnet; mix them in five or six tablespoonfuls of oil, or three yolks of hard-boiled eggs rubbed down smooth; add two tablespoonfuls of vinegar, some made mustard, salt and pepper; beat all together until it is smooth and thick, and serve in a sauce-boat. A good sauce for fish.

NO. 16.--CHESTNUT SAUCE FOR TURKEY OR FOWLS

Take half a pint of veal stock; half a pound of chestnuts; peel of half a lemon; a cupful of cream or milk; a very little cayenne and salt.

Remove the dark shell of the chestnuts, and scald them until the inner skin can be taken off. Then put them into the saucepan with the stock, the lemon peel cut very thin, some cayenne and salt. Let it simmer till the chestnuts are quite soft. Rub it through a sieve; add the seasoning and cream, and let it simmer for a few minutes, taking care it does not boil, and stirring constantly.

NO. 17.--WHITE CELERY SAUCE FOR BOILED POULTRY

Take six heads of celery, cut off the green tops, slice the remainder into small bits and boil in half a pint of water until it is tender; mix three teaspoonfuls of flour smoothly, with a little milk. Add six spoonfuls more of milk, stir it in; add a little salt and a small piece of butter. On boiling take off.

NO. 17½.--CELERY PUREE FOR TURKEY

Chop up six or eight heads of celery, boil them a few minutes; drain and put them in a saucepan, with half a pound of butter, some white soup stock, a little sugar, pepper and salt; cook till soft, then strain it through a sieve, heat it again and add a cup of milk or cream.

NO. 18.--WHITE CUCUMBER SAUCE FOR MEATS

Take four or five cucumbers; three-quarters of a pint of veal stock; the yolks of three eggs; a little cayenne pepper and salt.

Peel and take out the seeds from the cucumbers, cut them into very small pieces and put them into a sauce-pan with the stock and seasoning, and simmer it slowly until they are tender. Then stir in the yolks of the eggs well beaten. Make it very hot, but do not let it boil; and serve it up quickly.

NO. 19.--EGGS AND BUTTER SAUCE

Boil six eggs hard; when cold, peel them and put them into a cup of butter, melted; mix with a little flour, make it hot, stir in pepper and salt. Some people like lemon, and many require walnut catsup. This is left to personal taste.

NO. 20.--WINE SAUCE FOR VENISON OR MUTTON

Take from the stock pot a pint of the soup; let it boil down to half a pint; season with a dozen cloves, a teaspoon of salt, and a little pepper; then stir in a cup of wine, or of currant jelly.

NO. 21.--SAVORY JELLY FOR COLD TURKEY OR MEAT

Put in the pot two pounds of beef; if you have veal or beef bones, break them and throw them in also, but they require longer boiling to dissolve the gelatine. Put in half a pound of sweet ham or bacon, add all the sweet herbs, such as thyme, basil, parsley and marjoram; last of all, salt and pepper to taste. Boil for three or four hours. When it is sufficiently boiled, take off, strain, and put away to cool. Take off all the fat and sediment, and clarify by throwing into it the whites and shells of three eggs; add three blades of mace and a cup of wine or lemon juice. Place it again on the fire, let it boil a few times, and strain it through a jelly-bag. When well made it is delicious with cold turkey, and under the name of “aspic jelly,” figures in the finest French cooking.

NO. 22.--TOMATO SAUCE, RICH AND VERY FINE

Take a dozen large ripe tomatoes, pick off the stalks; extract the seeds and watery juice by squeezing them in the hand. Place the pulp in a stewpan with four ounces, or a quarter of a pound, of raw ham, cut into cubes; a dozen small eschalots and a bunch of thyme or parsley. Throw in a little butter, and fry all gently until the tomatoes soften sufficiently to be passed through a strainer. Mix this _puree_ with a cupful of good soup-stock or other soup; add the strained juice of the tomatoes, and let boil fifteen minutes, then set it by to clarify. Serve it hot. When canned tomatoes are used, omit the first directions.

NO. 23.--BROWN OYSTER SAUCE

Prepare this just as white oyster sauce (No. 24); only you use brown gravy instead of cream, as in white oyster sauce.

NO. 24.--WHITE OYSTER SAUCE

Put three dozen oysters in a stewpan, without their juice, which save; mix with the oysters, half a pound of butter, thickened with flour (work it well with a spoon); season with cayenne pepper and salt, and thin with a cup of milk or cream, and a cup of oyster juice. Boil altogether for ten minutes.

NO. 25.--OYSTER SAUCE FOR BOILED TURKEY

Put three dozen oysters in a stewpan; save their liquor in a bowl; mix with the oysters half a pound of butter and flour, worked together, and season with cayenne pepper and salt; thin this now with the liquor from the oysters and a cup of cream. Let it boil ten minutes and serve on the turkey.

NO. 26.--SAUCE PIQUANT

Put a large spoonful of sweet butter in a stewpan, slice into it two onions, two carrots, a little thyme, two cloves, two eschalots and a bunch of parsley; add, if liked, a clove of garlic. Let them cook until the carrot is soft, then shake in a little flour; let it cook five minutes more, and add a cup of beef or veal stock, and half a cup of strong vinegar; skim and strain through a sieve. Add salt and pepper when boiling. This is nice on cold meat.

NO. 27.--STOCK FOR SOUPS OR GRAVIES

Break the bones of a knuckle of veal, add to it a pound of lean beef and a half pound of lean ham; stew in two quarts of water until it is reduced to one. If for gravy, add to it two carrots, two turnips and two heads of celery. When the vegetables are soft, strain and keep for use. Water added to gravies spoils them.

NO. 28.--EGG SAUCE WITH LEMON

Boil six eggs; when cold, take off the shells, and slice them into a cup of melted butter; add pepper and salt, and stir constantly while heating. Add the juice of a lemon, or vinegar, or catsup as preferred. This sauce is equally good for boiled fish or poultry.

NO. 29.--HORSERADISH SAUCE

To a spoonful of mustard add three tablespoonfuls of vinegar and a little salt; if you have it, put in two spoonfuls of cream. Grate into this as much horseradish as will thicken it; then mash a clove of garlic and your sauce is ready.

NO. 30.--TO KEEP HORSERADISH

Grate the root, and pour strong vinegar over it, and bottle. This is fine for roast meat.

NO. 31.--SAUCE ROBERT

Cut into small pieces four large onions; brown them with three ounces of butter and a spoonful of flour. When yellow-brown, pour on them half a pint of veal, or beef gravy, or soup; let all simmer for half an hour; season with salt and pepper, and at the moment of serving, add a dessertspoonful of made mustard.

NO. 32.--PIQUANT TOMATO SAUCE

Mash half a dozen ripe tomatoes (pick out the seeds), put them in a stewpan with sliced onions, and a little meat gravy; let them simmer, till nearly dry, then add half a pint of brown gravy, left of cold meat, and let it cook twenty minutes. Strain and season with cayenne pepper, salt and lemon juice. Tarragon vinegar may be used instead of the lemon juice.

NO. 33.--CREAM SAUCE

Put a quarter of a pound of butter in a stew-pan, with a small tablespoonful of wheat flour, a teaspoonful of chopped parsley, and the same of young onions, or eschalots, chopped fine; add a saltspoonful of salt, and the same of pepper, and a grated nutmeg. Mix these well together, then add a glass of cream, or rich milk, set it over the fire, and stir it with a silver spoon until it is ready to boil; if it is too thick, add more milk. This sauce should be stirred for fifteen minutes. Extract of celery improves it. Serve with boiled rabbits, meat or poultry.

NO. 34.--APPLE SAUCE

Peel, quarter, and core some rich, tart apples; add a very little water, cover and set them over the fire; when tender, mash them smooth, and serve with roasted pork, goose, or any other gross meat.

NO. 35.--CRANBERRY SAUCE

Wash and pick a quart of cranberries; put them into a stew-pan, with a teacupful of water, and the same of brown sugar; cover the pan and let them stew gently for one hour; then mash them smooth with a silver spoon; dip a quart bowl in cold water, pour in the stewed cranberries, and leave till cold. Serve with roast pork, ham, turkey or goose.

NO. 36.--SAVORY SAUCE FOR A ROAST GOOSE

A tablespoonful of made mustard, half a teaspoonful of cayenne pepper, and three spoonfuls of port wine. When mixed, pour this (hot) into the body of the goose before sending it up. It wonderfully improves the sage and onions.

NO. 37.--FRIED PEACHES FOR SAUCE

Take peaches, not fully ripe, wash and wipe them; then cut them in slices a quarter of an inch thick, and fry in the pan, after pork. Serve with the meat. This is a South Carolina dish.

NO. 38.--FRIED APPLES AS A RELISH

Wash fine, fair apples without paring; cut them in slices an eighth of an inch thick, and fry in hot lard, or pork fat. Serve with fried pork.

NO. 39.--RICH LEMON SAUCE, FOR PUDDINGS

Boil a fresh lemon in plenty of water, until a straw will penetrate it, then cut it in slices, and each slice in quarters; add a teacupful of sugar, and the same of butter, with a large teaspoonful of wheat flour worked into it; put all together into a stew-pan, and stir in gradually half a pint of boiling water; keep it over the fire for ten minutes, stirring it all the time, then serve with half a nutmeg grated over.

NO. 40.--HARD SAUCE

Beat a quarter of a pound of butter to a cream, then stir into it half a pound of pulverized white sugar, and beat it until it is light. A wineglass of wine or brandy may be added. Grate nutmeg over it. Put it on ice if the weather is warm.

NO. 41.--TO KEEP HORSERADISH FOR SAUCE

Grate a quantity in season, and keep it in bottles filled with strong vinegar. A clove of garlic added to each bottle is an improvement.

NO. 42.--TO MAKE GOOD VINEGAR; NO. 1

Mix a quart of molasses in three gallons of rain water; add to this, one pint of sharp yeast. Let it ferment and stand four weeks; you will then have good vinegar.

NO. 43.--ANOTHER WAY TO MAKE VINEGAR; NO. 2

To make good pickles or sauces of several kinds, good vinegar is required. To a gallon of water put two pounds of coarse brown sugar; boil and skim it for half an hour. Put it in a tub or jar to ferment; add to it in the tub a slice of raised wheat-bread soaked in yeast. It can be bottled off or put in a cask in a week or two, but must be left unstopped, and the bung covered with muslin to keep out insects.

NO. 44.--TO MAKE GOOD VINEGAR FOR PICKLES

To a gallon of whisky add four pounds of brown sugar, a cup of yeast, and seven gallons of water. Put it into a demijohn or keg. If you set the vinegar in April, it will be good in November to pickle with. Cover the mouth of the vessel with muslin, to keep out flies or insects, which trouble and sometimes ruin vinegar while making. When sharp and clear, bottle it.

NO. 45.--TO MAKE GOOD AND CHEAP VINEGAR

Take three quarts of molasses, add to it eight gallons of rain water; turn the mixture into a clean cask, shake it well two or three times, throw in a few spoonfuls of good yeast, or two yeast cakes; place the cask in a warm place, and in ten days throw in it a sheet of common brown paper, smeared with molasses; it should be torn into narrow strips. This paper seems necessary to form mother, in making vinegar, unless you use whisky to commence the fermentation; then paper is not necessary.

ENTREES

KIDNEY AND MUSHROOM STEW

Cut the kidneys into slices, wash and dry them carefully; pepper and salt them, roll them in flour, and fry in butter till of a delicate brown color. Pour some plain beef stock, or beef gravy, in the pan; add a chopped onion, and stew for half an hour; then put in a cupful of mushrooms, and cook for fifteen minutes. Mushroom catsup will serve as a substitute. Use one-half the quantity of catsup.

STEWED LAMB CHOPS WITH GREEN PEAS

Season the chops with pepper and salt; roll in flour and fry to a pale brown. When done, if the chops are very fat, pour some of it into the stock-pot and cover the chops with boiling water. Parboil a pint of green peas; add them to the chops, together with a large spoonful of sweet butter. Dredge in a spoonful of flour, and let all stew gently for half an hour.

IRISH STEW

Take from one to three pounds of loin of mutton, or ribs of beef; cut it into chops; add by weight as many white potatoes, sliced, as there is beef. Throw in from two to six chopped onions, according to size, some pepper and salt, and a large spoonful of butter to each pound of meat. Let all stew gently for two hours and serve with boiled rice or macaroni.

PIGEON STEW

Pick and wash the pigeons, stuff them with bread crumbs, parsley, pepper, salt and butter mixed; dust with flour, and put into a pan to brown. Add butter and a little soup-stock or gravy. Stew gently until tender. Before dishing add a glass of wine if approved, if not, a little more stock, if the gravy has become too thick.

TRIPE WITH MUSHROOMS

Clean and parboil tripe before cooking. When it is white and tender, cut it into pieces suitable to fry; pepper and salt it, and dip it in flour or rolled cracker, then drop it into hot bacon fat. When browned on both sides, take up and make a gravy of some of the fat in which it was fried, a little flour, and a wineglass of good vinegar. Pour this around the tripe and serve with mushrooms.

STEWED TRIPE, PLAIN

Cut a pound of tripe in long narrow pieces, lay it in a stew-pan and add a cup of milk, or milk and water, a piece of butter as large as a hen’s egg, a tablespoonful of flour sifted in, a bunch of parsley, and a green onion, if desired. Cook slowly for nearly two hours.

TO FRY TRIPE BROWN

It must be thoroughly boiled and tender, or no frying will make it good. Let it be perfectly cold, cut it in pieces, roll each piece in salt, pepper and flour, and fry brown in bacon grease. Frying tripe in lard makes it tasteless. When nicely brown take it up, dredge a little flour in the gravy, and put in a half cup of vinegar. Serve in a sauceboat, or pour over the tripe as preferred.

SCALLOPS OF MUTTON, WITH MUSHROOMS

“Sautez,” or fry the scallops brown, then pour off the fat, add a glass of wine, a dozen button mushrooms, three ounces of truffles cut in pieces, and a cup of broth, or the stock of plain soup without vegetables. Simmer gently, and finish by adding the juice of a lemon.

HASHED BEEF, PLAIN

Slice some beef in very thin pieces, season with pepper and salt, and shake a little flour over it. Next, chop a medium sized onion and put it (without the beef) into a stew-pan with a tablespoonful of mushroom or tomato catsup. Boil for a few minutes, then add a pint of broth stock, or gravy-soup; boil it down to half the quantity. Five minutes before serving, throw in the cold sliced beef; let it boil five minutes and serve on toasted bread.

SANDWICHES. VERY FINE

Take half a pound of nice sweet butter, three tablespoonfuls of mixed mustard, the same of sweet oil, a little salt, pepper and the yolk of an egg. Put it over the fire and stir till it thickens; set it by to cool and chop fine some tongue or boiled ham. Cut the bread thin, then spread on the dressing and over it put a layer of ham or tongue. Press the slices of bread hard together, trim the edges and garnish with curled parsley.

SANDWICHES OF VARIOUS KINDS, FOR PIC-NICS

Home-made bread cuts better for sandwiches than baker’s bread, so if you wish the sandwiches very nice, it is better to make a loaf at home. For bread and butter sandwiches, cut the bread very thin, spread it evenly with sweet butter, and lay the buttered sides together. Lay them in circles on a plate and put parsley on top of them. Sandwiches may be made with cheese sliced and placed between the buttered bread, or with hard-boiled eggs sliced or chopped, and put between. The best are made with boiled smoked tongue or ham, with French mustard spread over the butter.

TO MAKE FRENCH MUSTARD

Put on a plate an ounce of the best mustard, add to it salt, a clove of garlic or a few tarragon leaves. Mince the garlic, stir it in, and pour on vinegar till it is of the proper thickness for use.

VEAL HASH FOR BREAKFAST. VERY NICE

Take a pint cup of cold veal cut small, dredge it with a spoonful of flour, and add a piece of butter the size of a hen’s egg. Put all in a stew-pan with half a pint of water; cover up and put it on the stove; let it simmer for an hour at least, stir it occasionally and add to it some parsley and sweet herbs. Just before serving add a teacup of milk, and serve on toasted bread.

PLAIN VEAL AND HAM PIE. EASILY MADE

Cut a pound of veal and a pound of ham into slices, salt them slightly; chop a cupful of mushrooms, a bunch of parsley, some eschalots, and fry them lightly; add to them a pint of soup stock, boil it together for five minutes and pour it into the piepan where you have placed your ham and veal. Put a dozen hard-boiled yolks of eggs in among the contents of the pie, cover it with a nice paste and bake it one hour and a half.

FRICANDELLONS OF COLD VEAL OR MUTTON

Mince the meat very fine, soak a thick slice of bread in boiling milk, mash it, and mix it with the cold meat; add a beaten egg (or two if you have more than a quarter of a pound of meat), some chopped parsley and thyme, a little grated lemon peel, pepper and salt; make this into cakes, and fry in butter or lard. Serve them dry on a serviette, accompanied with a gravy made from the bones of the minced meat which must be cooked with an onion, a little butter and flour, and milk; when brown it is ready.

VEAL AND HAM RAISED PIE, OR TIMBALE

Lard two pounds of lean veal well with strips of fat bacon, and add two pounds of ham. Line a deep pan or mould with rich paste; lay in the bottom of this a layer of liver forcemeat, then the veal and ham, and so on in alternate layers, till the dish is full. Season between each layer with thyme, bay leaf, marjoram, or any dried and pounded sweet herbs; fill up the hollow places, and cover the pan with paste. Decorate the top of the pie with cut dough leaves; make a hole in the top to pour in the gravy, and let out the steam. Egg the top of the pie and bake it for three hours; withdraw it from the oven, and place the point of a funnel in the hole in the top, and pour in about a pint of good gravy or veal consommé. This should be eaten cold. It will be jellied all through if cooked enough.

VEAL SALAD FOR LUNCH

To a pint of minced veal add three heads of celery. Pour over this a dressing made of the yolks of four hard-boiled eggs, a tablespoonful of dry mustard, and a large spoonful of olive oil. When this dressing is well beaten and perfectly smooth, add to it slowly (to keep from curdling) four tablespoonfuls of good wine vinegar, a little cayenne and salt. Garnish the dish with parsley and celery leaves.

VEAL SWEETBREADS, WITH TOMATOES

Set over the fire two quarts of ripe tomatoes; stew slowly, and strain through a coarse sieve. Add to them four or five sweetbreads, well trimmed and soaked in warm water; season with salt and cayenne pepper. Thicken with three spoonfuls of flour and a quarter of a pound of butter, mixed; cook slowly till done, and just before serving stir in the beaten yolks of three eggs.

VEAL LOAF FOR LUNCH OR TEA

Mince cold roast veal as fine as possible; add a fourth part as much fat ham, a cup of grated bread, or cracker crumbs, and two well-beaten eggs to bind the crumbs together; season with salt, and pepper (black and red), mix and form it into a loaf. Glaze the outside with yolk of egg, and sprinkle over it fine cracker crumbs. Bake half an hour, and serve with gravy made from the bones, etc., of the veal. Serve the gravy hot.

MINCED VEAL AND POACHED EGGS

One pound of cold veal chopped very fine. Boil half a pint of sauce till it begins to thicken or glaze; then add a cup of cream and the minced veal; season with pepper and salt. When dished put six poached eggs around it, alternately with slices of red tongue or ham. This is a nice breakfast dish, and uses to advantage the cold meats from the day previous.

CALF OR PIG BRAINS FRIED

Wash the brains in salt water, and wipe dry and dip in wheat flour or in beaten egg and then in bread crumbs. Fry in butter or lard, and season with pepper, salt and lemon sliced.

CALVES’ AND PIGS’ FEET FRIED IN BATTER

Wash and cook the feet tender, the day before using. When wanted, wash and roll them in a little flour to dry. Set them by, and make a batter of flour, eggs, milk, and a little salt and pepper (one egg is sufficient to two feet); take out the largest bones and roll the feet in batter, or lay them in a pan with hot lard, and pour the batter over them. Fry a delicate brown and serve on toast.

CALF’S HEAD BOILED OR BAKED

Have a head nicely cleaned, and soak it in salt and water to make it look white. Remove the eyes. Take out the tongue and salt it. Of the brains make a separate dish. To boil the head put it in a pot of lukewarm water and boil till very tender. Serve with sauce made of butter, flour and water, some lemon juice and tomatoes. If to bake, dredge flour over it, put on bits of butter, season with pepper, salt, and sweet herbs, set in a hot oven and baste with the water in which it was boiled.

POTTED CALF’S HEAD

Boil a calf’s head or half a beef’s head with a cow-heel until very tender. When done, pick out all the bones and chop the meat and tendons very fine; strain the liquor they were boiled in, and set it away to cool; skim off the fat and pour the jelly over the meat. Season with a teaspoonful of black pepper, salt, and thyme, powdered; boil all together for a few minutes, and pour into bowls or jelly moulds. Serve with parsley. Add a little garlic if the flavor is liked.

COLLARED CALF’S HEAD WITH BRAINS. COLD DISH

Boil half, or the whole calf’s head, as you require. Cover it with water and let it simmer for two hours; take it up, remove the bones, and put them back into the broth; let it continue to stew, adding to it sage leaves, and an onion. Cut the meat of head and brains into a stew-pan, adding to it some slices of ham, pepper and salt, the chopped tongue and an eschalot; let these cook two hours. The brains should be beaten up with two eggs, before putting them in, which should be the last thing. Then pour all in a mould and fill up with the liquor from the head, which should be boiled to a jelly.

CURRY OF COLD ROAST FOWL

Take two large onions, two apples, two ounces of butter, a dessertspoonful of curry powder or paste, half pint of gravy or soup-stock, one spoonful of lemon juice and two tomatoes.

Fry the fowl and the onions in butter to a light brown color; stew the apples, or fry them also. Put all, onions, apples, gravy and fowl, with the tomatoes and lemon juice into a stewing pan and let it stew thirty minutes; then serve with boiled rice. If curry paste is used instead of curry powder, no lemon is required.

WELSH RAREBIT

Cut a pound of cheese in slices a quarter of an inch thick, fry them together five minutes in butter, then add two well-beaten eggs, a little mustard and pepper; stir it up and send it to table hot, on slices of buttered bread.

HAM TOAST FOR LUNCHEON

Beat the yolk of an egg with a tablespoonful of sweet milk; set it on the fire to warm, and thicken it with grated or finely chopped ham; let it simmer a few moments and pour it on buttered toast. This is for one person.

WINTER DISH OF BAKED BEANS AND PORK

This is a very heavy dish, but nourishing, and it is well to know how to cook it, as it is economical.

Pick the beans, wash them, and put them to soak over night in plenty of water. In the morning pour this water off and put the beans in a kettle of cold water; place them on the fire and let them simmer till quite tender. Take them up and drain them; when thoroughly drained, put them in a baking pan with a large piece of salt pork; score the pork and lay it deep in among the beans, not upon them. Pour boiling water over them and bake till brown. If in a range, leave them in all night. This constant change of water improves the beans very much, and makes them less flatulent.

MUTTON, BEEF AND HAMS

REMARKS ON BOILING MEATS

Meat, whether fresh or salted, smoked or dried, should always be put on the fire in cold water. Dried meats should be soaked before boiling. The delicacy of meat and fowls is preserved by carefully skimming while they are boiling.

STUFFED HAM

Smoked hams are much liked stuffed with spices and sweet herbs, which the only kind of stuffing a salt ham will admit, as bread, crackers or oysters would sour before the ham could be used. If you wish to stuff a ham, look at the recipe for “Aromatic Spices for seasoning Meat, Pies, etc.” Soak your ham all night, scrape it nicely, and boil it half an hour to make the skin tender; then take it from the pot, gash it all over, introduce as much of the pounded spices as the incisions will hold, and then close the skin over the gashes and boil in the same manner, with vegetables thrown in, as in recipe for boiled ham.

BAKED HAM

Soak and clean your ham, boil it with onions, cloves, parsley and sweet herbs until it is nearly done, then let it cool in its own liquor; when cold, pull off the skin and place the ham in the oven gate, with a little sugar and bread crumbs over it till it is brown. If it is to be eaten hot, serve with vegetables and some acid or piquant sauce; if cold, send up savory jelly, No. 21.

TO BOIL A HAM

Run a knife, or skewer, into the thickest part of the ham next the bone; if the knife comes out clean the ham is good, if it smells rank and smears the knife the ham is not good. Select your ham, then, according to this rule, and when good lay it in cold water; scrape and wash it carefully, and let it remain in the water all night. In the morning, when the water--enough to cover the ham--is nearly boiling lay the ham in, and keep the water in a simmer. When it has boiled about an hour throw in two carrots, four onions, two heads of celery, a sprig of parsley, two or three blades of mace and four cloves. If the ham is very salty, it is well to change the water before putting in the seasoning. To obtain tenderness and mellowness the ham must not be allowed to boil hard, only simmer. Too much heat hardens all meat, especially salt meat. When the ham is done set it off in its own water, let it cool in it; by this means it will retain its moisture. When cool take it out, skin it, and dredge sugar over it, set it in the oven till it browns, or hold a hot shovel over it.

DAUBE GLACEE OF BEEF, FOR COLD SUPPERS

Take a thick round of beef--from four to six inches is the best size--make holes in it and stuff them with salted pork or bacon; roll each piece, before it is drawn through the beef, in pepper, salt, sugar, and vinegar, with minced parsley, and a very little minced garlic. If the weather is cold it will be better to keep the meat till the next day before cooking it. Boil two calf’s feet or four pig’s feet until they drop to pieces; pick out the bones and strain the liquor; set it away to jelly, or put it on ice to make it jelly. The next morning, put one half the jelly in a large stew pan, then add the beef, and cover it with the remainder of the jelly. Paste the pan over very tight or cover it extremely well, so that none of the flavor can escape. Cook this about four hours; when done, take out, cover with the liquor, and set it aside till it is jellied. This is delicious to eat cold, for suppers and collations.

BOILED BRISKET OF BEEF, STUFFED

A piece weighing about eight pounds requires five or six hours to boil. Before boiling the beef make a dressing of bread crumbs, pepper, butter, salt, sweet herbs, mace, and an onion, all chopped fine and mixed with a beaten egg. Put the dressing between the fat and the lean of the beef; sew it up to keep the dressing in. Flour a cloth, tie the beef up tight in it, and let it boil five or six hours.

ROUND OF BEEF STEWED BROWN

Make incisions in the beef and stuff with chopped onions, salt, pepper, and sweet basil, thyme and parsley. Dredge the meat with flour, lay some slices of bacon over it, and put it to brown in a close oven. Slice two turnips, four carrots, four salsifies, three stalks of celery and two onions; add a quarter of a cup of tomato catsup or two large tomatoes; season with salt and put all in the oven to cook with the meat. After it has been cooking in the oven two hours and is brown, add a cup of water with the vegetables. Cover again closely, and let this stew for one or two hours more, or until the meat and vegetables are tender.

TO FRY A STEAK TO TASTE AS IF BROILED

It sometimes happens that when the fire is low and the coals gone out, you are called on to cook a steak. Then get up a quick blaze in the stove with some kindlings. Put in a pan, over the blaze, a little butter; when it is hot lay in your steak; let it fry quickly; while frying cover the pan. Work some butter, salt and pepper together in a tin pan, and when the steak is done to taste, let it lie in this mixture a few minutes, and then serve. Do not salt a steak until it is cooked as salt will toughen it and draw out its juices.

ROUND OF BEEF A LA BARONNE

Boil a fat round of beef for half an hour, take it up and put in a deep dish; cut gashes in the sides of the meat, put pepper and salt into each gash; fill the dish the meat is in with claret wine; set it in to bake, adding as it goes in the stove three blades of mace, a cup of pickled capers, or nasturtiums, three white onions cut small, and a bunch of parsley cut fine. Stew or bake all together until the meat is tender. Toast some slices of bread very brown, lay them in the bottom of a dish, lay in the beef and pour the gravy around it, unless it is preferred in a sauce boat.

ROASTED BEEFSTEAKS

Tenderloin or porterhouse steaks are the best for broiling. Have a clear fire of coals to broil on; rub the gridiron with a little fat of the meat; lay on the steak without salting, let it broil gently until one side is done, then turn. Catch the blood as you turn it, to make the gravy rich. If the steak is a large firm one, take a quarter of a pound of butter and work into it pepper and salt. When the steak is done lay it on to this seasoned butter, keep it hot until the butter melts, turn the steak in it a few times, put the blood with the gravy, and serve hot, with tomato sauce or catsup.

TO ROAST BEEF IN A STOVE

A fine roasting piece of beef may, if properly managed, be baked in a stove so as to resemble beef roasted before a large, open fire. Prepare the meat as if for roasting, season it well with salt, pepper, and a little onion if liked. Set the meat on muffin rings, or a trivet in a dripping pan, and pour into the pan a pint or so of hot water to baste the meat with. Keep the oven hot and well closed on the meat; when it begins to bake, baste it freely, using a long-handled spoon; it should be basted every fifteen minutes; add hot water to the pan as it wastes, that the gravy may not burn; allow fifteen minutes to each pound of meat unless you wish it very rare. Half an hour before taking it up, dredge flour thickly over it, baste freely and let it brown. Take the meat from the pan, dredge in some flour and seasoning if needed; throw into the gravy a cup of water, let it boil up once, and strain into a sauce boat or gravy tureen.

LEG OF MUTTON BOILED A L’ANGLAISE

Select a fat, fine leg of mutton, put it on the fire in warm water; when it boils skim it, and let it simmer gently for two hours and a half; throw in a tablespoonful of salt. When the mutton is done garnish with turnips mashed in cream, butter, pepper and salt, and send it to table with a sauce boat of caper sauce No. 11.

ROAST LEG OF MUTTON

Select a fine, fat leg, cut holes in it, and lard it with fat bacon; season with parsley, pepper, and salt and put it to bake in a slow oven. Roast it for two hours, and serve with tomato sauce.

MUTTON STUFFED WITH MUSHROOMS

Chop up half a pint of mushrooms, put them in a stew pan with some chopped parsley and onion, and a tablespoonful of grated lean and same of fat ham; season with salt and pepper, add the yolks of four eggs, stir it all together, and introduce it in the leg by taking out the bone or by making incisions in the mutton. Bake very brown, froth it up by dusting flour over it, and serve with a good brown gravy, in which some currant jelly is melted. Sauce No. 28 is very nice for stuffed leg of mutton.

MUTTON HAUNCH

Let it lie in vinegar and water a few hours before it is put to cook. When wanted, rub it all over with pepper and salt, and when going to put it in the oven, cover it with a paste made of flour and water, to keep in the juices while baking; allow fifteen minutes to each pound of mutton. When half done, take off the flour paste, baste the meat well and dredge flour over it. Half an hour before serving, stir into the pan a quarter of a pound of butter, baste the meat freely, dredge flour over it again, and brown. Serve with port wine and jelly in the gravy, or if preferred, use one of the sauces mentioned for roast mutton.

MUTTON THAT WILL TASTE LIKE VENISON

Take a hind quarter of lamb or mutton; rub it well all over with brown sugar, half a pint of wine, and same of vinegar. Let it stay in this pickle for a day or two, if the weather is cold. When it is wanted, wash it, dry it, and roast it, or it may be cut into steaks, or made into a pie like venison. Sugar is a great preservative, and gives a finer flavor than salt, which hardens delicate meats. Salt drains out the juices of mutton or lamb.

FOWLS AND GAME

BOILED CHICKEN