Chapter VI: Appendix: N^o II

The following extract, from Dr. Wahlenberg's "Observations made with a view to determine the height of the Lapland Alps," p. 45, &c., was translated from the Swedish by the late Mr. Dryander, who kindly communicated it to the editor, expressing a wish that it might accompany the present publication. To fulfil this desire is now become a duty. It is with a melancholy satisfaction I here subjoin the last communication I ever received from this excellent and learned pupil of Linnæus, to the work of his master. Many remarks from him have assisted me in the course of this undertaking, and if I could have submitted the whole to his inspection before it went to press, many inaccuracies, which a foreigner could scarcely avoid, might have been corrected by a native Swede, a man too so supremely accurate, and so conversant with every part of the subject. But this the various and unremitting employments of my deceased friend rendered impracticable, and I could only take advantage of what he had it in his power to bestow, in casual conversations, or in answer to the questions I was now and then obliged to ask him, such as he was ever ready, on all occasions, to satisfy, because, to use his own words, he knew they were "likely to be of use."

The following remarks of Dr. Wahlenberg display a singular acuteness of observation. They are a complete picture, drawn by a masterly hand, not only to the adept in Natural History, but to every one who has the least taste for beholding the face of Nature, under its most striking and unusual aspects. The able author is, as yet, but slightly known to English readers, even in the more technical part of his science. What we are now to lay before them gives a promise of his taking a high rank amongst writers of a superior and more generally interesting class, one of those in short who touch upon no subject without enriching it.

* * * * *

Dr. Wahlenberg's remarks are divided into eight sections, each of which describes a separate line of elevation.

1. On approaching the Lapland Alps (_Fjäll_), we first arrive at the line where the Spruce Fir, _Pinus Abies_, ceases to grow. This tree had previously assumed an unusual appearance; that of a tall slender pole, covered from the ground with short, drooping, dark branches; a gloomy object in these desolate forests! The _Rubus arcticus_ had already, before we arrived at this point, ceased to bring its fruit to maturity. With the Spruce we lose the _Rosa cinnamomea_, _Convallaria bifolia_, &c.; and the borders of the lakes are stripped of their ornaments of _Arundo Phragmites_, _Lysimachia thyrsiflora_, _Galium boreale_, and _Carex globularis_. Here is the true station of _Tussilago nivea_ (Willd. Sp. Pl. v. 3. 1970.) The last beaver-houses are seen in the rivulets, and no Pike nor Perch is to be found in the lakes higher up. The boundary of the Spruce Fir is 3200 feet below the line of perpetual snow, and the mean temperature is about 3° of Celsius's thermometer (37½ of Fahrenheit).

2. Scotch Firs (_Pinus sylvestris_) are still found, but not near so tall as in the lower country. Their stems here are low, and their branches widely extended. Here are seen the last of _Ledum palustre_, _Salix pentandra_, _Veronica serpyllifolia_, &c. The bogs have already a very steril appearance. Near the utmost boundary of the Scotch Fir grows _Phaca alpina_. Higher up are hardly any Bears to be met with, and the berries of _Vaccinium Myrtillus_ (the Bilberry) do not ripen well. _Salmo Lavaretus_ (the Gwiniad), and _S. Thymallus_ (the Grayling), soon after disappear from the lakes. The upper limit of this zone, when the Scotch Firs cease, is 2800 feet below the line of perpetual snow, and the mean temperature about 2,°5 of Celsius (36½ of Fahrenheit.) A little below this point, or about 3000 feet before we come to perpetual snow, Barley ceases to ripen; but small farms, the occupiers of which live by grazing and fishing, are met with as far as 400 feet higher, for instance, Naimaka in Enontekis, and so far also potatoes and turnips grow large enough to be worth cultivating.

3. Beyond this the dwarf and stunted forests consist only of Birch. Its short thick stem, and stiff, widely spreading, knotty branches, seem prepared to resist the strong winds from the alps. Its lively light green hue is delightful to the eye, but evinces a weakness of vegetation. These Birch forests soon become so low, that they may be entirely commanded from the smallest eminence. Their uppermost boundary, where the tallest of the trees are not equal to the height of a man, is 2000 feet below the line of perpetual snow. This zone is therefore much wider than the preceding. Long before its termination _Alnus incana_, _Prunus Padus_, and _Populus tremula_, were no more to be seen. A little before the Birch ceases, we miss the _Sorbus Aucuparia_ (_Pyrus Aucuparia_, Fl. Brit.) which for some time had not presented us with any fruit; the _Rubus arcticus_ already likewise barren; _Erica vulgaris_, _Aconitum lycoctonum_, &c. Where the Birch forest becomes thinner, the reflection of the heat from the sides of the mountains is the strongest. Here in many spots we find the vegetation of _Sonchus alpinus_, _Struthiopteris_, and _Aconitum lycoctonum_ remarkably luxuriant. The drier spots now become covered with _Lichen rangiferinus_. _Tussilago frigida_ and _Pedicularis Sceptrum-Carolinum_ have their place to the utmost boundary of the Birch. Thus far only Charr (_Salmo alpinus_) is found in the lakes, and higher up all fishing ceases.

4. All mountains above this limit are called _Fjäll_ (Alps). Near rivulets and on the margins of bogs only, is found a little brush-wood, consisting of _Salix glauca_, whose grey hue affords but little ornament to the landscape. The lower country is covered with the dark-looking _Betula nana_, which still retains its upright posture. A few Juniper bushes, and some plants of _Salix hastata_, are found scattered about. Every hill is covered with _Arbutus alpina_, variegated with _Andromeda cærulea_ and _Trientalis europæa_. The more boggy ground is decorated with _Andromeda polifolia_ in its greatest beauty, and _Pedicularis lapponica_. On the sides of the mountains, where the reflected heat has the greatest power, grow _Veronica alpina_, _Viola biflora_, _Pteris crispa_, and _Angelica Archangelica_. This zone extends within 1400 feet of the line of perpetual snow. The Glutton (_Mustela Gulo_) goes no higher than this. The berries of _Rubus Chamæmorus_ still ripen here, but not at a greater degree of elevation.

5. Now no more brushwood is to be seen. The white _Salix lanata_ is not above two feet high, even about the rivulets, and _Salix myrsinites_ is of still more humble growth. _Betula nana_ occupies the drier situations, but creeps entirely upon the ground. The hills are clothed with the rather brown than green _Azalea procumbens_ and _Azalea lapponica_, which give this zone its most peculiar feature. Verdant spots between the precipices, where the sun has the greatest power, produce _Lychnis apetala_, _Erigeron uniflorum_, _Astragalus leontinus_[17] and _montanus_, with _Ophrys alpina_. In boggy places _Aira alpina_, _Carex ustulata_, and _Vaccinium uliginosum_ are observable. The only berries however which ripen at this degree of elevation, are those of _Empetrum nigrum_; but these are twice as large as what grow in the woodlands, and better flavoured. The upper boundary of this zone is 800 feet below the line of perpetual snow. The Laplanders scarcely ever fix their tents higher up, as the pasture for their reindeer ceases a very little way above this point. The mean temperature is about +1° of Celsius (34 of Fahrenheit).

6. Next come the snowy alps, where are patches of snow that never melt. The bare places between still produce a few dark shrubby plants, such as _Empetrum nigrum_, but destitute of berries, _Andromeda tetragona_ and _hypnoides_, as well as _Diapensia lapponica_. Green precipices exposed to the sun are decorated with the vivid azure tints of _Gentiana tenella_ and _nivalis_, and _Campanula uniflora_, accompanied by the yellow _Draba alpina_. Colder and marshy situations, where there is no reflected heat, produce _Pedicularis hirsuta_ and _flammea_, with _Dryas octopetala_. This zone extends to 200 feet below the limits of perpetual and almost uninterrupted snow.

7. Beyond it perpetual snow begins to cover the greatest part of the ground, and we soon arrive at a point where only a few dark spots are here and there to be seen. This takes place on the Alps of Quickjock at the elevation of 4100 feet above the sea; but nearer the highest ridge, and particularly on the Norway side of that ridge, at 3100 feet. Some few plants, with succulent leaves, are thinly scattered over the spongy brown surface of the ground, where the reflected heat is strongest, quite up to the line of uninterrupted snow. These are _Saxifraga stellaris_, _rivularis_ and _oppositifolia_, _Ranunculus nivalis_ and _glacialis_, _Rumex digynus_, _Juncus curvatus_[18] and _Silene acaulis_. The mean temperature at the boundary of perpetual snow is +0,°4 of Celsius, (32¾ of Fahrenheit).

8. Above the line of perpetual snow, the cold is occasionally so much diminished, that a few plants of _Ranunculus glacialis_, and other similar ones, may now and then be found, in the clefts of some dark rock rising through the snow. This happens even to the height of 500 feet above that line. Further up the snow is very rarely moistened. Yet some umbilicated Lichens (_Gyrophoræ_), &c., still occur in the crevices of perpendicular rocks, even to the height of 2000 feet above the line of perpetual snow. These are the utmost limits of all vegetation, where the mean temperature seems to be +1,°1 of Celsius (30 of Fahrenheit). The Snow Bunting, _Emberiza nivalis_, is the only living being that visits this elevated spot.

INDEX.

Abo, ii. 230.
_Acer platanoides_, ii. 227.
Aconite, yellow, i. 36.
_Aconitum lycoctonum_, i. 36, 47, 138, 278. ii. 79, 123, 277.
Adam and Eve, i. 28.
_Adoxa moschatellina_, i. 37.
_Agaricus_, i. 151, 152, 177. ii. 158.
_Agrostis arundinacea_, ii. 228.
---- _rubra_, ii. 91.
Agues, i. 29, 180.
_Aira alpina_, ii. 279.
Aland, ii. 233.
_Alca Torda_, i. 64, 65.
Alder, hoary-leaved, i. 48, 51. ii. 277.
_Alnus incana_, ii. 277.
_Alopecurus geniculatus_, ii. 92.
Alps, Lapland, i. 283-322. ii. 1-81, 257.
---- Dr. Wahlenberg's observations to determine their height, ii. 272.
_Amanita_, ii. 158.
Amusements of the Laplanders, ii. 50-58.
_Anas arctica_, i. 65.
_Andromeda cærulea_, i. 272. ii. 278.
---- _hypnoides_, i. 320. ii. 280.
---- _polifolia_, i. 23, 188, 189.
---- _tetragona_, ii. 28, 29, 280.
_Anemone Hepatica_, i. 11, 32. ii. 228.
---- _ranunculoides_, i. 11.
---- _vernalis_, i. 15.
_Angelica Archangelica_, i. 171. ii. 60, 108, 278.
---- _sylvestris_, i. 171, 316. ii. 76.
Angermanland, i. 48.
Animals of the alps, ii. 82, 83.
_Anthericum calyculatum_, i. 257.
_Apis terrestris_, i. 159.
Apple-trees, i. 61.
_Arabis thaliana_, i. 33.
_Aranea palustris_, }
---- _riparia_, } i. 258.
_Arbutus alpina_, ii. 278.
---- _Uva ursi_, i. 7, 23, 250.
_Ardea cinerea_, ii. 255.
_Arena Glarea_, i. 7, 16, 32, 82, 123, 166.
---- _mobilis_, i. 16.
_Artemisia vulgaris_, ii. 201.
_Arum_, i. 200.
_Arundo Calamagrostis_, ii. 90.
---- _Phragmites_, ii. 275.
Ash, i. 68.
Aspen, i. 77, 179.
_Aspidium Filix-f[oe]mina_, ii. 227.
_Asplenium Trichomanes_, i. 55.
_Astragalus alpinus_, i. 160, 256, 366. ii. 2.
---- _leontinus_, ii. 279.
---- _montanus_, ii. 279.
_Azalea lapponica_, i. 299. ii. 279.
---- _procumbens_, i. 285. ii. 279.

B.

_Bannisteria._ See _Diapensia_.
Bark of the aspen-tree used as food for cattle, i. 77.
---- pine-tree eaten by the peasants, i. 169.
---- willow used for tanning, i. 80.
---- birch used for tanning, i. 249.
Barley, i. 57, 67, 73.
_Bartramia fontana_, i. 181-184.
---- _pomiformis_, i. 13, 38.
_Bartsia alpina_, ii. 119.
Bears, ii. 215, 275.
Beaver, i. 88-91.
Beech, i. 68.
_Betula alba_, i. 48.
---- _incana_, i. 48. ii. 277.
---- _nana_, i. 19, 68, 126, 139, 186. ii. 26, 50, 278, 279.
_Bicornes_, i. 22.
Bilberry, i. 25, 35, 208.
Birch, common, i. 20, 34, 49, 56, 80, 100, 115, 202. ii. 276.
---- dwarf, i, 19, 126, 139.
Bird-traps, i. 179.
_Bixa Orelana_, ii. 233.
Blindness, peculiar case of, i. 217.
Boat, Lapland, i. 98.
Bog-moss, i. 139, 165, 167.
_Boletus igniarius_, used as a pincushion, i. 85.
---- _suaveolens_, employed as a perfume, i. 151.
Bothland, East, ii. 151-166, 201-232.
Bramble, strawberry-leaved, i. 51, 58, 201.
Brandy, i. 28, 122, 157. ii. 147.
_Brassica oleracea_, ii. 219.
Bream, i. 27.
_Bryum bimum_, i. 185.
---- _pomiforme_, i. 13.
Buck-bean, i. 86, 200.
Buck-wheat, i. 166.
Buntings, snow, i. 71. ii. 282.
Burnet, i. 220.
Butter, i. 110.
_Byssus_, i. 84, 156.
---- _cryptarum_, i. 47, 55.
---- _flos aquæ_, i. 4.
---- _Jolithus_, i. 26.
---- red, i. 26.