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Chapter II: Part 2

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Wash and cut up a cabbage, put it into a sauce-pan of boiling water. Boil for twenty minutes, then dry, and put it into a sauce-pan with four ounces of butter, two spoonfuls of white wine vinegar, some salt, and pepper; mix well together until it becomes well heated. Then serve up.

_Cabbage ‘all’ Uovo.’_

Drain a well-boiled cabbage and chop it up very fine. Put into a frying-pan two tablespoonfuls of butter, and one of flour, for every quart of chopped cabbage. When hot add the cabbage, season with salt, pepper, and one or two tablespoonfuls of vinegar, and stir constantly for six or eight minutes. Then put it on a dish, smooth the outside and garnish with quarters of hard-boiled eggs.

_Cabbage ‘Pasticciato.’_

Cut up a cabbage and boil it in an earthen pot. Boil a little white wine vinegar in a sauce-pan, put in two well-beaten eggs, three-quarters of a pint of clotted cream, and a little butter. Mix well, when boiling add some salt and pepper, and pour over the cabbage. Serve it cold.

_Cabbage ‘in Stufato.’_

Cut up a small cabbage and leave it in cold water for some time, then dry, take out the hard pieces, and chop up the rest fine. Put it into an earthen pot with a little salt, and boil for fifteen or twenty minutes. Then strain and put it on a hot dish, pour a cream, tomato, mustard, or horse-radish sauce, over it, and serve hot.

_Cabbage (Rea) ‘alla Fiamminga.’_

Remove the outer leaves of a red cabbage and cut it in pieces. Put it into boiling water for fifteen minutes, then dry, and place it in a sauce-pan with four ounces of butter, a chopped-up onion, a bay leaf, two cloves, and a little salt and pepper. Boil slowly for about half an hour, stirring it often. When cooked take out the bay leaf, add a little butter and serve quickly.

_Cabbage (Red) ‘alla Tedesca.’_

Cut up the leaves of two small red cabbages in slices. Melt four ounces of butter in a frying-pan, and when browned, throw in the cabbage, adding a little salt, three tablespoonfuls of white wine vinegar, and a chopped-up onion. Cover the frying-pan and put it on a slow fire for an hour. Serve up very hot.

* * * * *

_Capsicums ‘Farciti.’ No. 1._

Select large green sweet capsicums, and for each one take half a pound of minced roast or boiled fowl, half a pound of grated bread-crumbs, a little salt and pepper, and some chopped parsley and mix; add two ounces of melted butter and mix again. Meanwhile cut off one end of the capsicums (remove the seeds), and put the capsicums into a sauce-pan of boiling water; cover the pan and let it boil for about a quarter of an hour. Then drain the capsicums well, fill them with the force-meat, and sprinkle them over with bread-crumbs. Put some butter in an earthen pan and cook the capsicums in a moderate oven for a quarter of an hour.

_Capsicums ‘Farciti.’ No. 2._

Fry six medium-sized green sweet capsicums for one minute in boiling fat, drain, peel, and cut off the ends, keeping them to use as covers. Remove the insides and fill them with force-meat made of minced fresh pork, a spoonful of salt, a saltspoonful of pepper, half a saltspoonful of grated nutmeg, and the same of powdered thyme. Put on the ends, lay the capsicums in a well-oiled baking-dish, add a little pure olive oil, and put them in a moderate oven to bake for a quarter of an hour. Turn them on to a hot dish, and serve with a quarter of a pint of Vellutata sauce (see Sauces, p. 127), with a little Marsala added.

_Capsicums ‘al Forno.’_

Cut two or more green capsicums in two lengthwise, remove the seeds and filaments, and parboil them in boiling water for five minutes. Fill each half with an equal quantity of softened bread-crumb and minced meat seasoned with butter, salt, and a squeeze of lemon. Then put them into a baking-dish in half an inch of good stock (or water), and bake. Serve in the baking-dish, hot.

* * * * *

_Cardoons ‘al Bianco.’_

Clean and pare two or three pounds of cardoons, cut them lengthwise, and blanch them in boiling water. Then throw them into cold water to make them retain their whiteness, and dry them on a clean cloth. Cut an onion and a carrot into slices, and put them into a sauce-pan with four ounces of fresh butter, take out the carrot and onion after ten minutes and mix a tablespoonful of flour into the butter, adding some broth (or water), to prevent it burning. As soon as the broth (or water) boils, throw in the cardoons. When done, serve up hot.

_Cardoons ‘alla Milanese.’_

Prepare the cardoons as above, then put them one by one in a sauce-pan with six ounces of fresh melted butter, salt them a little, and add about three-quarters of an ounce of grated Parmesan cheese, and a little Béchamel sauce (see Sauces, p. 119). Cook them with fire above and below, and serve up hot.

* * * * *

_Carrots ‘all’ Aceto.’_

Scrape six large carrots and wash them well in cold water, cut them in slices, put them into an earthen pot of boiling water, and boil till tender. Then drain and dry, put them into a salad bowl and pour some white wine vinegar over them, with a little chopped onion and celery and two bay leaves.

_Carrots ‘alla Béchamel.’_

Scrape and wash six or eight large carrots, and slice them very fine. Cook them slowly in a sauce-pan with two ounces of fresh butter, and a little pounded sugar, salt, and pepper, and stir them continually. In another sauce-pan put one ounce of butter, one ounce of flour, two tumblers of cream (or milk), and salt to taste. Cook for about ten minutes, then pour it over the carrots, and heat again, taking care not to let them boil.

_Carrots ‘alla Casalinga.’_

Cut up some young carrots into small pieces, and put them into a sauce-pan with salted boiling water. Leave them to boil for several minutes, then drain and put them into a sauce-pan, with four ounces of butter, some salt, and a little pepper, on a hottish fire to bring out the flavour. Add a little flour, and a little broth (or water), and boil again, taking care the carrots do not fall to bits. Then make a sauce with the yolks of two eggs, the juice of half a lemon, and a little chopped parsley, and pour it over the boiling carrots. Take them off the fire at once to prevent the eggs from getting hard, put them on a dish, garnish with fried parsley and fried sippets of bread, and serve up hot.

_Carrots ‘alla Panna.’_

Scrape and wash six large carrots and cut them into very fine slices. Put them into a sauce-pan and cook slowly with two or three ounces of butter, a little sugar, a teaspoonful of salt and pepper, and mix well together. In another sauce-pan mix four ounces of butter, four ounces of fine flour, two tumblers of cream (or milk), and a pinch of salt. Boil for about ten minutes until the cream begins to bubble, then pour it over the carrots, keep them on the fire, but do not let them boil. Serve hot.

_Carrots ‘Sautées.’_

Scrape and wash six large carrots and cut them in rounds half an inch thick. Cook them in white broth (or salted water) for half an hour in a covered pan. Then drain, put them in a sauté-pan, add a teacupful of cream (or milk) and three tablespoonfuls of Béchamel sauce (see Sauces, p. 119), some salt, and pepper, and a little nutmeg. Cook for ten minutes, then place them on a hot dish, sprinkle with chopped parsley, and serve hot.

_Carrots ‘in Stufato.’_

Take one or two pounds of fine carrots, cut them in pieces, put them in an earthen pot of boiling water, and cook them until nearly soft. Meanwhile, put two ounces of butter, half or three-quarters of a pint of good broth, and one or two tablespoonfuls of powdered white sugar, into a frying-pan, and cook quickly for ten minutes; then take it off the fire, add two well-beaten yolks of eggs, and a little salt and pepper. Then drain the carrots, pour the hot sauce over them, and serve hot.

_Carrots ‘allo Zucchero.’_

Wash and clean two or three pounds of young carrots and cut them up. Put them in a sauce-pan, add two ounces of fresh butter, a little salt, and water. When cooked, pour a tumbler of cream over them with two ounces of pounded white sugar, replace the sauce-pan on the fire, being careful not to let it boil. Then take it off and mix two yolks of eggs, stirring all well together. Serve hot.

* * * * *

_Cauliflower ‘al Borghese.’_

Boil a cauliflower in salted water for one hour, drain, and break it into bits. Put a layer of cauliflower into a pie-dish, cover with Béchamel or ‘Alla Panna’ sauce (see Sauces, pp. 119, 125), and sprinkle with some grated cheese. Fill the dish with alternate layers of cauliflowers and sauce, then cover the top with bread-crumbs, grated cheese, and bits of butter. Bake in a moderate oven for half an hour. Serve hot.

_Cauliflower ‘al Burro.’_

Clean and remove the leaves from one large (or two small) cauliflowers, and wash well in fresh water. Then put the cauliflower into a large sauce-pan full of cold water, add a handful of salt, one teaspoonful of pepper, and one ounce of fresh butter, boil for half an hour, and drain well. Pour a sauce made of one tablespoonful of white wine vinegar, salt and pepper to taste, and one ounce of good butter over the cauliflower, and serve hot.

_Cauliflower ‘alla Crema.’_

Take off the outer leaves of a cauliflower (cut the stalk off close), and wash it in cold water. Tie it up in a piece of linen, stand it upright in an earthen pot of salted water, and boil for half an hour. Take it out carefully, drain, remove the linen, and put the cauliflower in a dish. Pour a hot ‘Alla Panna’ sauce (see Sauces, p. 125) over it and serve at once. Or you can make a sauce of two ounces of fresh butter, one tablespoonful of fine flour, well mixed in a frying-pan, add three-quarters of a pint of milk, stir till it boils, then add a little salt and cheese.

_Cauliflower ‘al Forno.’_

Boil a large cauliflower as in last recipe (alla Crema). When dried place it in a baking-pan. Mix two ounces of butter and one tablespoonful of flour in a frying-pan, add three-quarters of a pint of milk, and stir continually till it boils. Then put in a bay leaf, a little chopped parsley, some salt and pepper, and boil for ten minutes in a Bain-marie. Then take out the bay leaf and pour the sauce over the cauliflower, sprinkling it with bread-crumbs. Put some bits of fresh butter on it, and bake in a very hot oven for ten or fifteen minutes.

_Cauliflower ‘al Fritto.’_

Cut off the leaves and clean a fine cauliflower, break it into pieces, parboil in salted water, drain, and put it to cool. Whip up two or three eggs (according to the size of your cauliflower), dip each piece of cauliflower in, then roll it in bread-crumbs, fry in boiling butter on both sides, sprinkle with grated cheese, and serve hot.

_Cauliflower ‘al Gratin.’_

Boil a head of cauliflower in salted water, then break it in small pieces into a sauté-pan with four ounces of fresh butter. As soon as it boils put it on a dish and pour a Béchamel sauce (see Sauces, p. 119) over it. Put it in the oven, and when browned serve in the same dish.

_Cauliflower ‘alla Piemontese.’_

Boil a fine cauliflower in salted water, and when done pour the following sauce over it: Chop up one small onion and one or two anchovies very fine, cook with some butter and stock, add a few drops of vinegar, and a teaspoonful of sweet herbs chopped up fine. Cook for a few minutes just before serving.

_Cauliflower ‘in Stufato.’_

Remove the outer leaves and clean a fine cauliflower; cut it into several pieces and wash them well in cold water. Put them into an earthen pot of salted boiling water, and cook quickly for twenty or thirty minutes until they are quite tender. Take them out without breaking, and place them on pieces of buttered toast. Then put some butter in a frying-pan, add a little flour, mixed with some broth, stir well till it boils, then add six finely chopped mushrooms, and cook a little more. Take it off the fire and add three whipped yolks of fresh eggs, salt, pepper, grated nutmeg, and the juice of one lemon. Pour this sauce over and round the cauliflower and serve. The sauce must not be boiled after adding the eggs.

* * * * *

_Celery ‘alla Crema.’_

Cut off the green leaves and pare four or five heads of celery, cut into pieces two inches long, wash well, and dry on a napkin. Blanch in boiling water for five minutes, drain, and put into a sauté-pan with two ounces of fresh butter and one tablespoonful of fine flour. Stir well together, add half a pint of good consommé, and reduce for twenty minutes. Then thicken with two yolks of eggs beaten up with half a teacupful of cream, and a little grated nutmeg. Serve up hot, garnished with croûtons (fried bread).

_Celery ‘al Fritto.’_

Remove the green leaves and cut the white stalks of the celery into bits one inch long. Clean, and put them into boiling water for fifteen minutes, then dry on a napkin. Beat up a fresh egg with stock (or hot water), add a little salt and pepper, throw the celery in, then roll them in bread-crumbs, and fry in butter or fine white lard. Serve hot.

_Celery ‘all’ Italiana.’_

Take six large heads of celery, cut off the green leaves, leaving three inches of stalk attached to the root; clean, and cut in half. Blanch, and put into a sauce-pan with some good gravy, lard, ham, salt and pepper. Let them get cold, then dip them into the yolk of egg and bread-crumbs, and fry in fresh butter. Lay them in a dish and pour a Tomato sauce, or tomato conserve heated, over them. Serve hot. (See Sauces, p. 126.)

_Celery ‘alla Parmigiana.’_

Take six large heads of celery and cook as above. But when cooked, drain, lay in a dish, sprinkle with finely grated Parmesan cheese, pour melted fresh butter over them, and put into the oven until they have taken a good colour. Pour a little gravy lightly over, and serve.

_Celery ‘al Pomidoro.’_

Cut off the green leaves and clean the stalks of six heads of celery, wash them in cold water, then throw them into an earthen pot of boiling salt water, and boil fast for twenty minutes. Drain, dry well, put them on a dish, and pour a pint of tomato sauce, or tomato conserve heated, over them. Serve hot.

_Celery Stewed._

Cut the white outside stalks of celery into lengths of three inches, and boil them for half an hour in salted water. Drain, and put them into clear strained stock, adding a little minced onion and parsley. Boil until the celery is tender, add two ounces of butter stirred up with flour and shake the stew until thickened. Serve hot, pouring the sauce over the celery.

* * * * *

_Cucumbers ‘alla Béchamel.’_

Peel and pare six small cucumbers, and blanch them in salted boiling water for five minutes. Drain, and put them in a sauté-pan with half a pint of Béchamel sauce (see Sauces, p. 119), half an ounce of butter, a little grated nutmeg, and three tablespoonfuls of milk. Cook for fifteen minutes, put them on a hot dish, and serve.

_Cucumbers ‘alla Comasca.’_

Peel and slice two cucumbers very fine, and put salt and pepper, and taragon vinegar over them. Then slice an onion and lay it on the cucumbers, leaving them to pickle for fifteen minutes. Remove the onion and some of the liquid before serving.

_Cucumbers ‘alla Crema.’_

Peel six cucumbers, cut them into quarters, remove the seeds, and put them into cold water for half an hour. Place them in a covered sauce-pan of salted boiling water and cook them for half an hour, then lay them on a hot dish. Melt some butter in a sauce-pan and mix in one tablespoonful of flour, then add half a pint of milk and stir till it boils; add a little salt and pepper, take the sauce-pan off the fire, add a little more butter, and pour the sauce over the cucumbers. Garnish with croûtons (fried bread), and serve hot.

_Cucumbers ‘Farciti.’_

Choose cucumbers of about the same size and cut them in two lengthwise. Remove the seeds carefully with a spoon, and fill with a stuffing made of equal parts of minced chicken (or other white meat) and soft bread-crumbs, salt and pepper to taste, one egg, and a little stock. Sprinkle the top with bread-crumbs, and lay them into half an inch of stock in a baking-dish. Bake in a moderate oven until the cucumbers are soft, filling up the stock when necessary. Put them carefully in a hot dish and pour the gravy out of the baking-dish, thickened with a very little flour, round them.

_Cucumbers ‘in Istufato.’_

Peel two or three cucumbers, cut them into quarters, and take out the seeds. Put two ounces of fresh butter and a sliced onion into a frying-pan, fry until the onion is browned, add the cucumbers and stir them well until browned. Then take them out of the frying-pan. Put some more butter into the pan, stir it well with the rest, add a little broth, and mix till it boils, and add a little salt and pepper. Then put the cucumbers in, cover them, and leave them to cook slowly for twenty minutes. Put them on slices of buttered toast and serve up hot.

_Cucumbers ‘alla Panna.’_

Peel four or five cucumbers, cut them into halves, and remove all the seeds. Then cut them into small pieces and boil in water until soft. Strain, and dry them well on a napkin. Mix two ounces of butter with a spoonful of flour over the fire, add salt and pepper, stir well, and add a tumbler of cream. Put in the cucumbers and heat them without letting them boil.

_Cucumbers ‘alla Spagnuola.’_

Peel two cucumbers, cut them in half and take out the seeds. Fill them with force-meat and tie the halves together. Put some lard, raw veal, two carrots, two onions, some parsley, several bay leaves, some thyme, salt, and pepper, and the cucumbers covered with lard, into a sauce-pan with some strong broth, and cook for five or six minutes. Drain, and then pour a sauce ‘Suprema’ (see Sauces, p. 125) over the cucumbers before serving up hot.

_Cucumbers ‘alla Toscana.’_

Peel and blanch three or four cucumbers in salted boiling water for five minutes. Drain, cut them into pieces one inch thick, and put them into a sauté-pan with one ounce of butter, a little flour, half a pint of veal broth, stir well, and add some salt and pepper. Reduce for about fifteen minutes, stirring until it boils, add one teaspoonful of chopped parsley, half a teaspoonful of grated nutmeg, half a cupful of cream and the beaten-up yolks of two eggs. Put on the fire again for three or four minutes (do not let it boil) and serve hot.

_Cucumbers ‘all’ Uova.’_

Peel three large cucumbers and blanch them in salted boiling water for five minutes. Drain, and cut them into pieces an inch thick. Put them in a sauté-pan with one ounce of butter, sprinkle a little fine white flour over them, stir, and add a half pint of veal broth, with salt and pepper to taste. Stir well until it boils, reduce the whole for fifteen minutes, then add a teaspoonful of chopped parsley, a little grated nutmeg, two yolks of eggs beaten up, and two tablespoonfuls of cream. Cook again for three or four minutes, but do not let it boil, and serve hot.

* * * * *

_Egg-Plant (Aubergine) ‘Farcite.’_

Cut each egg-plant into four, leaving the peel on. Make four cuts in each piece and fry in boiling fat for one minute. Remove the fleshy part of the egg plant and fill it with any force-meat you have. Sprinkle the top with bread-crumbs and a little melted butter, brown in the oven for about ten minutes, and serve hot.

_Egg-Plant (Aubergine) ‘al Forno.’_

Boil two (or more) of the fruits for twenty or thirty minutes (until tender). Then cut them in two lengthwise and take out the pulp, being careful not to break the skin. Mash the pulp up with some butter, salt, and pepper, and replace it in the skins. Sprinkle with bread-crumbs and bits of fresh butter, and put it in the oven to brown.

_Egg-Plant (Aubergine) ‘Fritto.’_

Peel a fruit and cut it into round slices about half an inch thick, sprinkle with one teaspoonful of salt and half a teaspoonful of pepper, dip the slices into beaten-up egg and fresh bread-crumbs, and then fry in hot fat for five minutes. Take them out, give a very slight sprinkle of salt, and drain them well. Serve very hot on a napkin.

_Egg-Plant (Aubergine) ‘alla Griglia.’_

Peel a large fruit and cut it into slices half an inch thick, put them in a dish and season with salt and pepper, and pour a tablespoonful of pure olive oil over them. Mix well, then broil the slices for five minutes on both sides. Place them on a hot dish, pour a quarter of a pint of Butter sauce over them (see Sauces, p. 122), adding a little chopped parsley, and serve hot.

_Egg-Plant (Aubergine) ‘Sauté.’_

Peel one or two fruits and cut them into slices a quarter of an inch thick. Sprinkle with salt, and pile them one on the top of the other on the underside of a plate. Put a weighted plate on the top of the pile and let it stand for an hour to press out the juice. Then dip the slices in egg and bread-crumbs, or in egg and flour, and sauté on both sides in lard or dripping. Serve hot.

* * * * *

_Flan of Celery._

Clean and boil three or four heads of celery. Then drain well, and chop them up very fine. Mix one tablespoonful of flour and three-quarters of an ounce of butter in a sauce-pan, and add the celery and one pint of milk. Reduce, then take the sauce-pan off the fire, and when cold add the yolks of six eggs, and some allspice. Put all into a shape, and cook it slowly with fire above and below, or in an oven, for half an hour. An Alla Panna sauce (see Sauces, p. 125) can be served with it.

_Flan of Potatoes._

Boil one or two pounds of potatoes, cut them into slices, and put them into a sauce-pan with four ounces of fresh butter and a tumbler of cream (or milk). Cook until the potatoes are quite soft, mash them, and pass them through a cullender. Then mix six yolks, and four beaten-up whites of eggs, and two and a half ounces of white powdered sugar, with the potatoes, and put the whole into a buttered shape, well covered with bread-crumbs (and holding more than the quantity of potatoes). Cook with fire above and below for about half an hour (or in an oven). A Béchamel sauce (see Sauces, p. 119) can be served with the Flan.

_Flan of Vegetables._

Wash, strain, boil, and cut up fine about two pounds of different vegetables, potatoes, spinach, cardoons, etc., and sweet herbs. Boil them in a sauce-pan with some good stock; when cooked, add a teacupful of cream (or milk), stir well together and leave them to cool. Then add four yolks of eggs, some grated cheese, and the white of the eggs beaten up. Put the vegetables into a buttered shape, well covered with bread-crumbs, cook with fire above and below, or in the oven.

(Flans can be made of any other vegetables, such as fennel, French beans, cauliflower, etc.)

* * * * *

_Fritto ‘Misto.’_

Cut one or two young green pumpkins in thin slices about as long as a finger and half as wide, and lay them on a plate with a little salt. Mix three ounces of butter and three tablespoonfuls of flour in a sauce-pan and boil for two minutes, add half a tumbler of cream, half a tumbler of chicken broth, and boil till it is a stiff Béchamel. Then mince three breasts of cooked chicken, two slices of tongue, and one small truffle, mix with the Béchamel and roll into small balls, then dip into egg and grated bread and put aside till wanted. Take ten or twelve pumpkin flowers, some young artichokes properly prepared and cut into quarters (if not quite young and tender they must be boiled first), some cauliflower and bits of cardoon, dip them in egg and dust them with flour. Do the same to some parboiled calves’ brains, flour the slices of pumpkin, and fry all together in pure olive oil. Use dripping or lard for frying if you have not got good oil. Season with a sprinkling of salt. Serve very hot.

_Fritto of Vegetables._

Instead of chicken and calves’ brains mix minced mushrooms or truffles with the Béchamel and roll into balls. In winter, large yellow pumpkins and potatoes must be sliced.

* * * * *

_Jerusalem Artichokes ‘al Bianco.’_

Clean and cut two dozen Jerusalem artichokes into pieces about half an inch long, wash and put them into a stew-pan with half an ounce of fresh butter, and a quarter of an ounce of white pounded sugar. Put them on a slow fire for a few minutes, add four tablespoonfuls of white sauce, eight of veal broth (or milk), and simmer until the Jerusalem artichokes are soft, then skim, mix the yolk of an egg with two tablespoonfuls of milk, pour it into the stew-pan, stir quickly, and serve hot. The Jerusalem artichokes must be well cooked, but not reduced to a pulp.

_Jerusalem Artichokes in Purée._

Wash well and boil twelve Jerusalem artichokes in three pints of water with one ounce of butter and one tablespoonful of salt. When soft, chop them up; meanwhile cook slowly in a stew-pan one sliced onion, a little celery, half a turnip, two ounces of butter, one of ham, three or four bay leaves, and a little grated nutmeg. Put in the artichokes, stir, and add one tablespoonful of flour and one pint (or less) of milk to form a proper thickness when boiled. Pass through a fine hair sieve and serve hot.

* * * * *

_Leeks ‘alla Casalinga.’_

Cut off the root, peel the white part of the leek (about three inches), and blanch them in hot water. Dry, braise them in butter, stock, and a little sugar; and when well glacé serve at once.

_Leeks ‘al Forno.’_

Take twenty leeks, cut them into pieces two inches long, and put them into cold water. Then boil them in plenty of salted boiling water, and when done throw them again into cold water. Melt some fresh butter in a sauce-pan and simmer the leeks over a slow fire, add seven tablespoonfuls of a white sauce made with cream and chicken broth, a sprinkling of Parmesan cheese, and the yolk of an egg. Mix well, then put the leeks into a baking dish and brown them slightly in the oven. Serve hot.

_Leeks ‘alla Salza Bianca.’_

Take twenty leeks, cut them into pieces two inches long and put them into cold water. Then boil them in plenty of salted boiling water, when done throw them again into cold water. Put fresh butter into a sauce-pan and simmer the leeks over a slow fire, add five tablespoonfuls of a white sauce made with cream and chicken broth, and a little pepper. Serve up hot.

* * * * *

_Lentils ‘alla Corona.’_

After boiling one pint of lentils with a bouquet of sweet herbs, strain them. Meanwhile mince some ham with a very little onion and put it to brown with some butter; then add one or two ladlefuls of good stock, boil, and strain. Pour this sauce over the lentils with a good piece of butter, salt and pepper to taste, heat them, and garnish boiled beef or pork with them.

_Lentils ‘in Istufato.’_

Put an earthen pot on the fire, and just before the water boils throw in one pint of lentils. As it boils skim off the lentils which float to the surface, and continue to do this until all are taken out; the few which remain at the bottom of the pot must be strained through a sieve. Chop up two anchovies, place them in a sauce-pan with some pure oil and butter, and a little minced shallot, brown them well, put in the lentils, and then add some good stock or soup. When cooked serve up hot.

_Lentils ‘alla Provenzale.’_

Leave one pint of lentils in cold water for twelve hours. Strain, put them into hot water, and boil them rapidly; then cook them slowly for about an hour, drain them well, put them back into boiling water and cook until quite soft. Pass them through a sieve, and put them into a sauce-pan with two ounces of butter, a very little onion juice, pepper and salt to taste, and stir for a quarter of an hour over the fire. Serve up very hot. Two tablespoonfuls of cream are a good addition.

_Lentil Purée._

Boil the lentils in water with a spoonful of butter, then rub them through a sieve. Put some minced parsley, celery, carrot, and a very little onion on the fire with two or three ounces of butter; when brown, pour in a ladleful of good stock. Strain, flavour the lentils with it, adding salt and pepper to taste. The purée should be pretty stiff.

_Lentils ‘al Riso.’_

Cook the lentils as in ‘alla Provenzale.’ Then take half a pint of rice and put it into an earthen pot of boiling water. When cooked, drain the rice through a sieve, and stand it near the fire for ten or fifteen minutes to dry. Place two ounces of butter in a frying-pan, and when melted, add a small onion chopped up fine; when browned, put in the lentils and rice, and stir them over the fire for a quarter of an hour. Add a little salt and pepper, and serve up very hot.

* * * * *

_Lettuce ‘Farcite.’_

Cut off the roots, wash, and clean five or six lettuce heads. Put them into boiling water for five minutes, then fill the inside with force-meat. Tie the tops together, and put them in a sauce-pan, adding a quarter of a pint of Marsala sauce, and the same of good white broth. Add salt and pepper to taste, cover the sauce-pan with buttered paper, and cook in the oven for fifteen minutes. Place the lettuces on a hot dish (having untied them), pour the sauce over, and serve hot.

_Lettuce ‘al Forno.’_

Wash the lettuce, remove the faded leaves, and cut off the root. Tie the tops together, lay the lettuces side by side in a baking-pan, and pour in one and a half inches of stock. Cover the pan and put it in a moderate oven for half an hour, adding stock when necessary. Place a fork under the middle of each lettuce, raise and drain, and lay them doubled up on a hot dish. Season the gravy in the pan with butter, salt and pepper, thicken with one beaten egg, and pour it over the lettuce. Serve hot.

_Lettuce ‘alla Spagnuola.’_

Remove the lower leaves and cut twelve fine lettuces in half, blanch, then drain, and put them into a sauce-pan; sprinkle with salt, and cover them with slices of lard and ham, moisten with a little broth, cover the pan with greased paper, and cook in the oven. Drain and remove the fat, then roll the lettuces in the shape of prunes, and lay them on croûtons of buttered toast. Pour some sauce ‘Suprema’ (see Sauces, p. 125) over them, and serve hot.

* * * * *

MACCARONI AND OTHER PASTES.

_Maccaroni ‘alla Béchamel.’_

Take three-quarters of a pound of blanched maccaroni (see p. 3) and put it into a sauce-pan with three ounces of good fresh butter, tossing until the butter is thoroughly absorbed. Then add five or six tablespoonfuls of grated cheese, one spoonful of salt, a little pepper and grated nutmeg, and quarter of a pint of sauce ‘alla Béchamel’ (see Sauces, p. 119). Toss well together, without stirring, and heat for five minutes. Place in a deep dish and serve up hot.

_Maccaroni ‘alla Crema.’_

Boil three-quarters pound of fresh maccaroni in plenty of salted water for three quarters of an hour, with an onion stuck with two cloves and half an ounce of butter. Drain it well (taking out the onion) and put it back in a sauce-pan with four ounces of butter, four ounces of grated Swiss cheese, and four of grated Parmesan cheese, a small pinch of nutmeg, and a pinch of pepper. Add half a pint of veal broth, and four or five tablespoonfuls of cream. Cook for five minutes, stirring well, and as soon as the maccaroni is ropy serve up hot.

_Maccaroni ‘al Forno.’ No. 1._

Boil three-quarters of a pound of maccaroni as in above recipe. When drained, put it into a baking dish, sprinkle with bread-crumbs and grated Parmesan cheese, pour a little clarified fresh butter over it, and place it in the oven for ten minutes. When of a golden colour serve up at once.

_Maccaroni ‘al Forno.’ No. 2._

Break some large maccaroni into pieces about four inches long, and stew it in consommé or veal broth until tender. Put a layer of maccaroni in a dish, and sprinkle with salt, pepper, and Gruyère cheese grated fine. Repeat the layers until the dish is full, then cover the top with a thick layer of the cheese, some finely grated bread-crumbs, and small bits of fresh butter. Bake long enough to brown the top, and serve at once.

_Maccaroni ‘al Forno.’ No. 3._

Break enough maccaroni into bits one and a half or two inches long to half-fill a pie-dish. Put it into salted boiling water, and boil for twelve or fifteen minutes until perfectly soft. Shake the sauce-pan often, or the maccaroni will stick to the bottom. Drain it well, then put it into the dish with butter, salt, and grated cheese. Fill the dish with milk, so as to cover the maccaroni, and bake until the milk is absorbed and the top browned. For every half-pound of maccaroni one and a half tablespoonfuls of melted butter must be used. Middle-sized maccaroni is the best for this dish.

_Maccaroni ‘au Gratin.’_

Take three-quarters of a pound of blanched maccaroni (see p. 3). Make a good white sauce, mix in plenty of grated Parmesan cheese, and add salt and pepper to taste. Place the maccaroni and sauce in a dish, and bake in a moderate oven until browned.

_Maccaroni ‘all’ Italiana.’_

Prepare three-quarters of a pound of fresh maccaroni as in ‘alla Crema.’ Then place it in a sauce-pan with a gill of Vellutata sauce (see Sauces, p. 127), to which add a little Marsala, and a quarter of a pound of grated Parmesan cheese. Add very little salt, some pepper and nutmeg, and cook slowly for ten minutes, tossing frequently. Serve on a hot dish with grated Parmesan cheese separately.

_Maccaroni ‘al Latte.’_

Parboil three-quarters pound of long maccaroni in salted water, then drain it well. Put half an ounce of flour and two ounces of butter into a sauce-pan and stir them well; when they begin to colour, pour one and a quarter to one and a half pints of milk in gradually, and boil for ten minutes. Then put in the maccaroni and one ounce of grated Gruyère cheese, stand the sauce-pan on the edge of the fire to simmer, and let the maccaroni absorb the milk. When cooked, add one and a half ounces more butter and one and a half ounces of grated Parmesan cheese, put the maccaroni into a baking dish and cover it with grated bread-crumbs. Place it in an oven and serve when browned.

_Maccaroni ‘alla Napolitana.’_

Boil and prepare three-quarters of a pound of maccaroni as in ‘alla Crema.’ Drain, and put it in a sauce-pan with half a pint of sauce ‘Suprema,’ half a pint of Tomato sauce (see Sauces, pp. 125, 126), a quarter of a pound of grated Parmesan cheese, two truffles, six mushrooms, and half an ounce of tongue, all cut up into small pieces. Cook over a sharp fire for ten minutes, tossing well all the time, and serve hot.

_Maccaroni ‘alla Quaresima.’_

Parboil twelve ounces of maccaroni and drain it well. Put one onion, a little parsley, and six anchovies all finely chopped up, into a frying-pan with butter, and fry for six or eight minutes; add this to the maccaroni with half a tumbler of white wine, one of fish soup (or water), and a pinch of white pepper, boil over a slow fire for twenty minutes, and serve at once sprinkled with grated Parmesan cheese.

_Maccaroni ‘alla Semplice.’_

Boil twelve ounces of maccaroni in salted boiling water, then drain well and put them on a hot dish. Pour four ounces of fresh melted butter over them and mix in gradually six ounces of grated Swiss cheese. Stir with two forks, and sprinkle grated Parmesan cheese thickly over before serving hot.

_Maccaroni ‘alla Siciliana.’_

Blanch (see p. 3) and strain about three-quarters of a pound of fresh maccaroni and cut it into small pieces, then mince one pound of roast veal, four ounces of ham, slice four hard-boiled eggs, and mix with one and a half tablespoonfuls of finely chopped-up sweet herbs, add salt and pepper to taste. Butter a mould, and sprinkle it well with bread-crumbs, then line it with thin paste; put in alternate layers of maccaroni sprinkled with grated Parmesan cheese, and of force-meat, until the mould is full; add half a pint of good stock, cover with paste and bake in a slow oven for about forty minutes. Serve hot.

_Maccaroni ‘Timbale alla Milanese.’_

Take one pound of flour, one pound of butter, a quarter of an ounce of salt, and one wineglassful of water, and work the paste well; roll it out thin and cover carefully the inside of a timbale shape. If any air bubbles remain between the paste and the shape, prick them to let out the air. Cook three-quarters of a pound of maccaroni in salted boiling water, drain, and put it into a sauce-pan with some good gravy, two ounces of butter, a little grated nutmeg, and some grated Gruyère cheese; mix well, pour into the mould, and cover with a piece of paste which fits, passing some white of egg with a brush round the join. Bake in the oven for three-quarters of an hour, turn the timbale carefully out of the shape and serve. The timbale can be enriched by adding thin slices of hare, veal, or sweetbread, truffles and small mushrooms to the maccaroni.

_Maccaroni ‘Timbale alla Napolitana.’_

Boil half a pound of maccaroni as in ‘alla Crema.’ Prepare a timbale shape about seven inches in diameter and butter it. Arrange long maccaroni round and round the mould inside until it is covered, and then stand it in the ice-box until wanted. Put the remaining maccaroni into a sauce-pan with two ounces of good butter, tossing well for five minutes, then add a tablespoonful of salt and a little cayenne pepper, five tablespoonfuls of grated Gruyère cheese, and a quarter of a pint of Tomato sauce (see Sauces, p. 126), and again toss all well together. Add some thin slices of truffles and boiled tongue, toss for two minutes, and take it off the fire to cool for a quarter of an hour. Then fill the mould with the maccaroni, taking great care not to disturb the inside coil of maccaroni. Put the mould into a large sauce-pan, filled to only half the height of the mould with water, and place it in a moderate oven to cook for one hour. When done turn the timbale carefully out of the mould on to a hot dish, pour a little hot Tomato sauce round it, and serve.

* * * * *

OTHER PASTES.

_Agnellotti ‘alla Poggio Gherardo.’_

Take the meat of a boiled chicken (hare, pheasant, or any game will do as well) and pound in a mortar with one truffle, two ounces of crumb of bread soaked in veal broth, two ounces of butter, a pinch of salt, the same of pepper, and a little grated nutmeg. When well worked into a paste rub it through a sieve. Meanwhile take one pound of flour, three eggs, half a tumbler of milk, and a pinch of salt, mix up into a paste and work it well. Lay it aside for half an hour, then roll it out very thin, divide it in half and let it dry. Then take one half and put the meat paste on it in little heaps (half a teaspoonful) about three inches distant from each other. Cover them with the other half of paste, cut round the little heaps, and press the edges of the two pastes together to prevent the meat stuffing from coming out. Put the agnellotti into a sauce-pan with a great deal of salted boiling water in it, and boil slowly. When done take them out with a strainer, season with butter, grated Parmesan cheese, and good gravy. Serve very hot.

_Crescioni._

Boil a bunch of spinach, drain it well and put it to simmer with some pure olive oil, a taste of shallot, some chopped parsley, and salt and pepper to taste: season with some raisins (stoned) and some currants, and a little sugar. Put the spinach into rounds of paste made of flour and eggs, about two inches in diameter, and fold the paste over the spinach (as you make a turnover). Fry in pure olive oil.

_Gnocchi ‘alla Romana.’_

Mix five and a half ounces of flour and two eggs in a sauce-pan, add one pint of milk by degrees, and three-quarters of an ounce of Gruyère cheese cut into bits. When the paste is cooked put in salt to taste, and three-quarters of an ounce of good butter, spread it in a dish to the thickness of three-quarters of an inch, and let it cool. Then cut it into small square pieces and pile it in layers in a baking-dish with three-quarters of an ounce of good butter in bits, and three-quarters of an ounce of grated Parmesan cheese between the layers (but not on the outside). Brown with the salamander or in a hot oven, and serve at once.

_Gnocchi of Semolina._

Take one pint of milk, four and a half ounces of semolina and boil; before taking it off the fire add salt to taste, one ounce of good butter, and three-quarters of an ounce of Parmesan cheese. Before it gets cold mix in two eggs, then pour it out on a dish, spreading it in an even thickness of about three-quarters of an inch. When cold cut it in small square pieces. Pile them one on another in a vegetable dish, adding between each layer one ounce of good butter in bits, and some grated Parmesan cheese (but not on the top), put the gnocchi into a hot oven to be slightly browned, and serve hot.

_Pappardelle with Hare._

Make a paste with flour, and three eggs, roll it about the thickness of a florin, and cut it into strips the width of a finger. Boil in salted water and put it aside to dry. Cut up the fillets, or the thighs of a hare (about eight ounces) into small pieces, mince one and a half ounces of bacon, half a small onion, half a carrot, and a quarter of a head of celery, and put them to cook with three-quarters of an ounce of butter, and season with salt and pepper. When browned, sprinkle the meat with one tablespoonful of flour, moisten it with one wine-glassful of gravy, and let it simmer for a time, adding one and a quarter ounces of butter and a little grated nutmeg. Place the pappardelle (the strips of paste) on a hot dish, grate a little Parmesan cheese over them, add the hare condiment, and serve hot.

_Spaghetti ‘con Acciughe.’_

Take twelve ounces of medium-sized spaghetti, parboil in slightly salted water; meanwhile wash and bone five anchovies, chop them up fine and put them into a sauce-pan with an abundance of pure olive oil, and a pinch of pepper. Do not let them boil, but when hot add two ounces of butter and the pulp of one or two tomatoes (or some tomato conserve). Pour this sauce over the spaghetti and serve hot.

_Spaghetti ‘al Forno.’_

Boil three-quarters of a pound of fresh spaghetti in plenty of salted water for three-quarters of an hour, adding an onion with two or three cloves stuck into it and half an ounce of butter. Drain and place them in a sauce-pan with half a pint of sauce ‘Alla Tedesca’ and half a pint of sauce ‘Alla Béchamel.’ Add a good pinch of pepper, a little grated nutmeg, and a quarter of a pound of grated Gruyère cheese. Toss well, then put them in a baking-dish, sprinkle with grated Parmesan cheese and bread-crumbs, pour a little clarified butter over them, and put into the oven. When baked a golden colour (about fifteen minutes) serve up hot.

_Spaghetti ‘all’ Italiana.’_

Boil the spaghetti as above (‘al Forno’), drain, add one pint of Tomato sauce (see Sauces, p. 126) (or conserve) and a quarter of a pound of grated cheese, add a little pepper and grated nutmeg, and cook for ten minutes, tossing well. Serve hot with some grated Parmesan cheese separate.

_Spaghetti ‘alla Napolitana.’_

Boil three-quarters of a pound of fresh spaghetti in plenty of salted water for three-quarters of an hour, with an onion stuck with cloves, and half an ounce of butter. Drain and put them into a saucepan with half a pint of Tomato sauce (see Sauces, p. 126) (or tomato conserve), half a pint of sauce ‘Suprema’ (see Sauces, p. 125), two truffles, seven or eight mushrooms, and a piece of smoked tongue, all cut up small. Add a little pepper, grated nutmeg, and a quarter of a pound of grated Parmesan cheese. Cook for ten minutes, tossing well, serve hot with some grated Parmesan cheese separate.

_Spaghetti, Timbaletti di._

Slide long pieces of spaghetti (or small maccaroni) gently into a sauce-pan, turning them round so that they should not be broken. Boil in salted water until tender, then lay them straight out on a cloth to cool. Butter small moulds (about three inches high), and wind spaghetti round inside them, beginning at the bottom. As you wind, fill each mould with boiled maccaroni, pieces of sweetbread cut into small bits, and button mushrooms, already cooked and prepared. Fill the moulds rather tight, or the timbaletti will not stand up, cover them with buttered paper, and stand them in a pan of hot water to cook in a slow oven for half an hour. Turn the timbaletti carefully out of the moulds, pour a little gravy round them, and serve hot.

_Tagliarini ‘al Formaggio.’_

Take one pound of flour, three eggs, half a tumbler of milk, and a pinch of salt, mix up into a paste and work it well. Lay it aside for half an hour, then roll it out very thin and let it dry before cutting it into long thin strips (tagliarini). Boil these in salted water over a very slow fire for twenty minutes and then drain well. Meanwhile prepare four ounces of grated Parmesan cheese, five ounces of grated Gruyère, and six ounces of butter; put a layer of tagliarini into a baking-dish, and cover them with cheese and butter. Repeat the alternate layers of tagliarini, cheese and butter, until the dish is full. Sprinkle the top with bread-crumbs and bits of butter, bake in the oven for quarter of an hour and serve in the baking-dish very hot.

_Tagliatelle with Ham._

Make a stiff paste with flour and eggs, roll it to the thickness of a florin, cut it into strips half or three-quarters of an inch broad, and parboil with a very little salt. Meanwhile cut up into small square pieces a thick slice of ham, mince some carrot and celery (about the same in quantity as the ham) and put them into a frying-pan with two, or more, ounces of butter. When they begin to brown add some tomato juice (or tomato conserve) and a cupful of broth (or water). Place the tagliatelle, well strained, on to a hot dish, season with grated Parmesan cheese, some bits of butter, and the ham.

_Tagliatelle ‘alla Romagnola.’_

Put one clove of garlic (or a sliced onion) and a bunch of parsley into a frying-pan with some pure olive oil. As soon as the garlic (or onion) begins to brown, add six or seven tomatoes cut in slices, and salt and pepper to taste. When they are cooked strain off the gravy. Meanwhile make a paste as in ‘Tagliatelle with Ham,’ parboil in plenty of slightly salted water, then put it into a sauce-pan, pour the hot gravy over it, add some butter and a sprinkling of Parmesan cheese, mix, and serve at once.

_Tagliatelle with Sausages._

Prepare the tagliatelle as in the recipe ‘with Ham,’ only substitute sausages for the ham.

_Tortelli._

Take seven ounces of curds (squeeze them through a cloth to extract all the water), one and a half ounce of Parmesan cheese, one egg, and one yolk of an egg, a little grated nutmeg and some allspice, a pinch of salt, and a little chopped-up parsley. Mix well together and put a spoonful on to little rounds of paste (about two and a half inches in diameter). Fold the paste over the curds, as you would a turnover, and put them into boiling salted water. Take them out with a strainer, season with butter and Parmesan cheese and serve hot. The quantities given ought to make about twenty-four tortelli.

* * * * *

_Macedoine of Vegetables._

Cut one carrot and one turnip into small dice, balls, or any fancy shapes; take a quarter of a pint of green peas, a quarter of a pint of young flageolet beans, a quarter of a pint of French beans cut into slices half an inch long, and some small pieces of cauliflower. Boil each vegetable separate, and drain them well before mixing them together lightly with a sauce ‘Alla Panna’ or ‘Alla Béchamel’ (see Sauces, pp. 119, 125), or a seasoning of melted butter, pepper, and salt.

_Mushrooms (Pratajuoli[4]) ‘al Burro.’_

[4] Agaricus campestris. The mushroom usually cultivated in England.

Take large mushrooms, clean them carefully, break off the stalks and peel the tops, put them on a gridiron, season with a little pepper and salt, turn them, and when done serve up on a very hot dish; put a good piece of fresh butter on to each, and a squeeze of lemon. Place them in a hot oven for a minute, or even in front of a hot fire, and serve on buttered toast.

_Mushrooms (Porcini[5]) ‘alla Casalinga’_

[5] Boletus edulis.

Peel two pounds of fine mushrooms and put them into fresh water. Melt four ounces of butter in a sauce-pan with two or three spoonfuls of pure olive oil, one or two leaves of mint, an anchovy finely chopped up, and a little pounded parsley. Stir well together, put the mushrooms into the sauce-pan, having first dried them well, and sprinkled them with salt, then cook slowly. Serve up on slices of bread fried in butter, and squeeze the juice of half a lemon over them.

_Mushrooms (Pratajuoli[6]) ‘alla Crema.’_

[6] Agaricus campestris.

Take one pound of fine mushrooms, break off the stalks, clean, wash, and drain them. (If very large divide them in two.) Put them into a sauté-pan with one ounce of fresh butter, season with one spoonful of salt and half a spoonful of pepper, and cover the pan. Cook over a moderate fire for six or seven minutes, then add half a cupful of cream and two tablespoonfuls of Vellutata sauce (see Sauces, p. 127). Cook for four minutes, and serve at once in a hot dish with croûtons (fried bread).

_Mushrooms (Porcini[7]) ‘alla Francese’._

[7] Boletus edulis.

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Leaves from our Tuscan kitchen; or, How to cook vegetablesChapter II: Part 2

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