Chapter VI: Part 6

This gave one a very good idea of the geography of the country, which delighted dear Albert, as this expedition was quite in a different direction from any that we had ever made before. But my head is so very ungeographical, that I cannot describe it. We came down by the _Month Eigie_, a steep hill covered with grass--down part of which I rode, walking where it was steepest; but it was so wet and slippery that I had two falls. We got down to the road to the _Spittal Bridge_, about 15 miles from _Castleton_, at nearly half-past four, and then down along the new road, at least that part of it which is finished, and which is to extend to the _Cairn Wall_. We went back on our side of the river; and if we had been a little earlier, Albert might have got a stag--but it was too late. The moon rose and shone most beautifully, and we returned at twenty minutes to seven o’clock, much pleased and interested with this delightful expedition. Alas! I fear our _last_ great one!

(IT WAS OUR LAST ONE!--1867.)

_TOURS_

_in_

_ENGLAND AND IRELAND,_

_and_

_YACHTING EXCURSIONS._

FIRST VISIT TO IRELAND.

_On Board the Victoria and Albert,
in the Cove of Cork,
Thursday, August 2, 1849._

Arrived here after a quick but not very pleasant passage. The day was fine and bright, and the sea to all appearance very smooth; but there was a dreadful swell, which made one incapable of reading or doing anything. We passed the _Land’s End_ at nine o’clock in the morning. When we went on deck after eight in the evening, we were close to the _Cove of Cork_, and could see many bonfires on the hill, and the rockets and lights that were sent off from the different steamers. The harbour is immense, though the land is not very high, and entering by twilight it had a very fine effect. Lady Jocelyn, Miss Dawson, Lord Fortescue (Lord Steward), Sir George Grey (Secretary of State for the Home Department), Miss Hildyard, Sir James Clark, and Mr. Birch are on board with us. The equerries, Colonel Phipps and Colonel Gordon, are on board the “Black Eagle.”

_Friday, August 3._

The day was grey and excessively “muggy,” which is the character of the Irish climate. The ships saluted at eight o’clock, and the “Ganges” (the flag-ship and a three-decker) and the “Hogue” (a three-decker cut down, with very heavy guns, and with a screw put into her), which are both very near us, made a great noise. The harbour is very extensive, and there are several islands in it, one of which is very large. _Spike Island_ is immediately opposite us, and has a convict prison; near it another island with the depôt, &c. In a line with that is the town of _Cove_, picturesquely built up a hill. The two war-steamers have only just come in. The Admiral (Dixon) and the Captains of the vessels came on board. Later, Lord Bandon (Lord-Lieutenant of the county), Lord Thomond, General Turner, Commander of the Forces at Cork, presented their respects, and Albert went on shore, and I occupied myself in writing and sketching. Albert returned before our luncheon, and had been walking about and visiting some of the cabins.

We left the yacht at two with the ladies and gentlemen, and went on board the “Fairy,” which was surrounded with rowing and sailing boats. We first went round the harbour, all the ships saluting, as well as numbers of steamers and yachts. We then went into _Cove_ and lay alongside the landing-place, which was very prettily decorated; and covered with people; and yachts, ships and boats crowding all round. The two Members, Messrs. Roche and Power, as well as other gentlemen, including the Roman Catholic and Protestant clergymen, and then the members of the Yacht Club, presented addresses. After which, to give the people the satisfaction of calling the place _Queenstown_, in honour of its being the first spot on which I set foot upon Irish ground, I stepped on shore amidst the roar of cannon (for the artillery were placed so close as quite to shake the temporary room which we entered); and the enthusiastic shouts of the people. We immediately re-embarked and proceeded up the river _Lee_ towards _Cork_. It is extremely pretty and richly wooded, and reminded me of the _Tamar_. The first feature of interest we passed was a little bathing-place, called _Monkstown_, and later _Blackrock Castle_, at which point we stopped to receive a salmon, and a very pretty address from the poor fishermen of _Blackrock_.

As we approached the city we saw people streaming in, on foot, on horseback, and many in jaunting-cars. When we reached _Cork_ the “Fairy” again lay alongside, and we received all the addresses: first, from the Mayor and Corporation (I knighted the Mayor immediately afterwards), then from the Protestant Bishop and clergy; from the Roman Catholic Bishop and clergy; from the Lord-Lieutenant of the county, the Sheriffs, and others. The two Judges, who were holding their courts, also came on board in their robes. After all this was over we landed, and walked some few paces on to where Lord Bandon’s carriage was ready to receive us. The ladies went with us, and Lord Bandon and the General rode on each side of the carriage. The Mayor preceded us, and many (Lord Listowel among the number,) followed on horseback or in carriages. The 12th Lancers escorted us, and the Pensioners and Infantry lined the streets.

I cannot describe our route, but it will suffice to say that it took two hours; that we drove through the principal streets; twice through some of them; that they were densely crowded, decorated with flowers and triumphal arches; that the heat and dust were great; that we passed by the new College which is building--one of the four which are ordered by Act of Parliament; that our reception was most enthusiastic; and that everything went off to perfection, and was very well arranged. _Cork_ is not at all like an English town, and looks rather foreign.

The crowd is a noisy, excitable, but very good-humoured one, running and pushing about, and laughing, talking, and shrieking. The beauty of the women is very remarkable, and struck us much; such beautiful dark eyes and hair, and such fine teeth; almost every third woman was pretty, and some remarkably so. They wear no bonnets, and generally long blue cloaks; the men are very poorly, often raggedly dressed; and many wear blue coats and short breeches with blue stockings.

We re-embarked at the same place and returned just as we came.

_Kingstown Harbour, Dublin Bay,
Sunday, August 5._

Safely arrived here: I now continue my account. For the first two hours and a half the sea, though rough, was not disagreeable. We entered _Waterford Harbour_ yesterday at twenty minutes to four o’clock. The harbour is rocky on the right as one enters, and very flat to the left; as one proceeds the land rises on either side. We passed a little fort called _Duncannon Fort_, whence James II. embarked after the battle of the _Boyne_, and from which they had not saluted for fifty years. Further up, between two little villages, one on either side, each with its little chapel, picturesquely situated on the top of the rock or hill, we anchored. The little fishing place to our left is called _Passage_, and is famous for salmon; we had an excellent specimen for our dinner. Albert decided on going to _Waterford_, ten miles up the river, in the “Fairy,” with the boys, but as I felt giddy and tired, I preferred remaining quietly on board sketching. Albert returned after seven o’clock; he had not landed.

_Viceregal Lodge, Phœnix Park,
Monday, August 6._

Here we are in this very pretty spot, with a lovely view of the _Wicklow Hills_ from the window. But now to return to yesterday’s proceedings. We got under weigh at half-past eight o’clock; for three hours it was dreadfully rough, and I and the poor children were very sea-sick. When we had passed the _Tuscan Rock_ in _Wexford_ the sea became smoother, and shortly after, quite smooth, and the evening beautiful. After we passed _Arklow Head_, the _Wicklow Hills_ came in sight--they are beautiful. The _Sugarloaf_ and _Carrick Mountain_ have finely pointed outlines, with low hills in front and much wood. At half-past six we came in sight of _Dublin Bay_, and were met by the “Sphynx” and “Stromboli” (which had been sent on to wait and to come in with us), the “Trident,” and, quite close to the harbour, by the “Dragon,” another war-steamer. With this large squadron we steamed slowly and majestically into the harbour of _Kingstown_, which was covered with thousands and thousands of spectators, cheering most enthusiastically. It is a splendid harbour, and was full of ships of every kind. The wharf, where the landing-place was prepared, was densely crowded, and altogether it was a noble and stirring scene. It was just seven when we entered, and the setting sun lit up the country, the fine buildings, and the whole scene with a glowing light, which was truly beautiful. We were soon surrounded by boats, and the enthusiasm and excitement of the people were extreme.

While we were at breakfast the yacht was brought close up to the wharf, which was lined with troops. Lord and Lady Clarendon and George[58] came on board; also Lords Lansdowne and Clanricarde, the Primate, the Archbishop of Dublin, and many others. The address was presented by the Sheriff and gentlemen of the county. As the clock struck ten we disembarked, stepping on shore from the yacht, Albert leading me and the children, and all the others following us. An immense multitude had assembled, who cheered most enthusiastically, the ships saluting and the bands playing, and it was really very striking. The space we had to walk along to the railroad was covered in; and lined with ladies and gentlemen strewing flowers. We entered the railway-carriages with the children, the Clarendons, and the three ladies; and in a quarter of an hour reached the Dublin station. Here we found our carriages with the postilions in their Ascot liveries. The two eldest children went with us, and the two younger ones with the three ladies. Sir Edward Blakeney, Commander-in-Chief in Ireland, rode on one side of the carriage and George on the other, followed by a brilliant staff, and escorted by the 17th Lancers and the Carabiniers.

[58] The Duke of Cambridge.

It was a wonderful and striking scene, such masses of human beings, so enthusiastic, so excited, yet such perfect order maintained; then the numbers of troops, the different bands stationed at certain distances, the waving of hats and handkerchiefs, the bursts of welcome which rent the air,--all made it a never-to-be-forgotten scene; when one reflected how lately the country had been in open revolt and under martial law.

_Dublin_ is a very fine city; and _Sackville Street_ and _Merrion Square_ are remarkably large and handsome; and the _Bank_, _Trinity College_, &c. are noble buildings. There are no gates to the town, but temporary ones were erected under an arch; and here we stopped, and the Mayor presented me the keys with some appropriate words. At the last triumphal arch a poor little dove was let down into my lap, with an olive branch round its neck, alive and very tame. The heat and dust were tremendous. We reached _Phœnix Park_, which is very extensive, at twelve. Lord and Lady Clarendon and all the household received us at the door. It is a nice comfortable house, reminding us of _Claremont_, with a pretty terrace garden in front (laid out by Lady Normanby), and has a very extensive view of the _Park_ and the fine range of the _Wicklow Mountains_. We are most comfortably lodged, and have very nice rooms.

_Tuesday, August 7._

We drove into _Dublin_--with our two ladies--in Lord Clarendon’s carriage, the gentlemen following; and without any escort. The people were very enthusiastic, and cheered a great deal. We went, first, to the _Bank_, where the Directors received us, and then to the printing-room, and from thence viewed the old Houses of Lords and Commons, for what is now the _Bank_ was the old Parliament House. From here we drove to the _Model-School_, where we were received by the Archbishop of Dublin, the Roman Catholic Archbishop Murray (a fine venerable-looking old man of eighty), and the other gentlemen connected with the school. We saw the _Infant_, the _Girls’_, and the _Boys’ Schools_; in the latter, one class of boys was examined in mental arithmetic and in many very difficult things, and they all answered wonderfully. Children of all creeds are admitted, and their different doctrines are taught separately, if the parents wish it; but the _only_ teaching enforced is that of the Gospel truths, and love and charity. This is truly Christian and ought to be the case everywhere. About 1,000 children are educated here annually, of which 300 are trained as schoolmasters and mistresses. From here we visited _Trinity College_, the Irish University, which is not conducted upon so liberal a system, but into which Roman Catholics are admitted. Dr. Todd, the secretary, and a very learned man, well versed in the Irish language, showed us some most interesting ancient manuscripts and relics, including St. Columba’s Book (in which we wrote our names), and the original harp of King O’Brian, supposed to be the one from which the Irish arms are taken. The library is a very large handsome room, like that in _Trinity College, Cambridge_. We then proceeded towards home, the crowd in the streets immense, and so loyal. It rained a little at intervals. Home by a little past one. Albert went into _Dublin_ again after luncheon, and I wrote and read, and heard our children say some lessons.

At five we proceeded to _Kilmainham Hospital_, very near here; Lord Clarendon going in the carriage with the ladies and myself--Albert and the other gentlemen riding. Sir Edward Blakeney and his staff, and George, received us. We saw the old pensioners, the chapel, and the hall, a fine large room (where all the pensioners dine, as at _Chelsea_), and then Sir Edward’s private apartments. We afterwards took a drive through all the principal parts of _Dublin_,—_College Green_, where the celebrated statue of William the III. is to be seen; _Stephens’ Green_, by _The Four Courts_, a very handsome building; and, though we were not expected, the crowds were in many places very great. We returned a little before seven. A large dinner. After dinner above two or three hundred people arrived, including most of the Irish nobility and many of the gentry; and afterwards there was a ball.

_Wednesday, August 8._

At twenty minutes to one o’clock we left for _Dublin_, I and all the ladies in evening dresses, all the gentlemen in uniform. We drove straight to the Castle. Everything here as at _St. James’s_ Levée. The staircase and throne-room quite like a palace. I received (on the throne) the addresses of the Lord Mayor and Corporation, the University, the Archbishop and Bishops, both Roman Catholic and Anglican, the Presbyterians, the non-subscribing Presbyterians, and the Quakers. They also presented Albert with addresses.[59] Then followed a very long Levée, which lasted without intermission till twenty minutes to six o’clock! Two thousand people were presented!

[59] Lord Breadalbane (Lord Chamberlain) was in attendance, having joined us on our arrival in Dublin.

_Thursday, August 9._

There was a great and brilliant review in the _Phœnix Park_--six thousand one hundred and sixty men, including the constabulary. In the evening we two dined alone, and at half-past eight o’clock drove into _Dublin_ for the Drawing-room. It is always held here of an evening. I should think between two and three thousand people passed before us, and one thousand six hundred ladies were presented. After it was over we walked through _St. Patrick’s Hall_ and the other rooms, and the crowd was very great. We came back to the _Phœnix Park_ at half-past twelve--the streets still densely crowded. The city was illuminated.

_Friday, August 10._

At a quarter to twelve o’clock we set out, with all our suite, for _Carton_, the Duke of Leinster’s; Lord and Lady Clarendon in the carriage with us. We went through _Woodlands_, a place belonging to Mr. White, in which there are beautiful lime-trees; and we passed by the “Preparatory College” for _Maynooth_; and not far from _Carton_ we saw a number of the Maynooth students. The park of Carton is very fine. We arrived there at a little past one, and were received by the Duke and Duchess of Leinster, the Kildares, Mr. and Lady C. Repton, and their two sons. We walked out into the garden, where all the company were assembled, and the two bands playing; it is very pretty: a sort of formal French garden with rows of Irish yews. We walked round the garden twice, the Duke leading me, and Albert the Duchess. The Duke is one of the kindest and best of men.

After luncheon we walked out and saw some of the country people dance jigs, which was very amusing. The Irish is quite different from the Scotch reel; not so animated, and the steps different, but very droll. The people were very poorly dressed in thick coats, and the women in shawls. There was one man who was a regular specimen of an Irishman, with his hat on one ear. Others in blue coats, with short breeches and blue stockings. There were three old and tattered pipers playing. The Irish pipe is very different from the Scotch; it is very weak, and they don’t blow into it, but merely have small bellows which they move with the arm. We walked round the pleasure-grounds, and after this got into a carriage with the Duke and Duchess--our ladies and gentlemen following in a large jaunting-car, and the people riding, running, and driving with us, but extremely well-behaved; and the Duke is so kind to them, that a word from him will make them do anything. It was very hot, and yet the people kept running the whole way, and in the thick woollen coats, which it seems they always wear here. We drove along the park to a spot which commands an extensive view of the _Wicklow Hills_. We then went down an entirely new road, cut out of the solid rock, through a beautiful valley, full of the finest trees, growing among rocks close to a piece of water. We got out and walked across a little wooden bridge to a very pretty little cottage, entirely ornamented with shells, &c. by the Duchess. We drove back in the jaunting-car, which is a double one, with four wheels, and held a number of us--I sitting on one side between Albert and the Duke; the Duchess, Lady Jocelyn, Lord Clarendon, and Lady Waterford on the opposite side; George at the back, and the equerries on either side of the coachman.

As soon as we returned to the house we took leave of our hosts, and went back to the _Phœnix Park_ a different way from the one we came, along the banks of the _Liffey_, through Mr. Colson’s park, in which there were the most splendid beeches I have ever seen--feathering down quite to the ground; and farther along the road and river were some lovely sycamore-trees. We drove through the village of _Lucan_, where there were fine decorations and arches of bays and laurel. We passed below _The Strawberry-beds_, which are really curious to see--quite high banks of them--and numbers of people come from _Dublin_ to eat these strawberries; and there are rooms at the bottom of these banks on purpose. We were home a little after five.

_On Board the Victoria and Albert,
in Loch Ryan, Sunday, August 12._

We arrived after a dreadfully rough though very short passage, and have taken refuge here. To return to Friday. We left the _Phœnix Park_, where we had spent so pleasant a time, at six o’clock, Lord Clarendon and the two elder children going in the carriage with us, and drove with an escort to the Dublin Railway Station. The town was immensely crowded, and the people most enthusiastic. George met us there, and we took him, the Clarendons, and Lord Lansdowne and our ladies in the carriage with us. We arrived speedily at _Kingstown_, where there were just as many people and as much enthusiasm as on the occasion of our disembarkation. We stood on the paddle-box as we slowly steamed out of _Kingstown_, amidst the cheers of thousands and thousands, and salutes from all the ships; and I waved my handkerchief as a parting acknowledgment of their loyalty. We soon passed _Howth_ and _Ireland’s Eye_. The ship was very steady, though the sea was not smooth, and the night thick and rainy, and we feared a storm was coming on.

_Saturday, August 11._

We reached _Belfast Harbour_ at four o’clock. The wind had got up amazingly, and the morning was a very bad and stormy one.

We had not had a very quiet night for sleeping, though very smooth. The weather got worse and worse, and blew a real gale; and it was quite doubtful whether we could start as we had intended, on our return from _Belfast_, for _Scotland_.

We saw the Mayor and General (Bainbrigg), who had come on board after breakfast.

At a quarter-past one we started with the ladies and gentlemen for the “Fairy.” Though we had only two minutes’ row in the barge, there was such a swell that the getting in and out, and the rolling and tossing in the boat, were very disagreeable. We had to keep in the little pavilion, as the squalls were so violent as to cover the “Fairy” with spray. We passed between _Holywood_ and _Carrickfergus_, celebrated for the first landing of William III. We reached _Belfast_ in half an hour, and fortunately the sun came out.

We lay close alongside the wharf, where a very fine landing-place was arranged, and where thousands were assembled. Lord Londonderry came on board, and numerous deputations with addresses, including the Mayor (whom I knighted), the Protestant Bishop of Down and clergy, the Catholic Bishop Denvir (an excellent and modest man), the Sheriff and Members for the county, with Lord Donegal (to whom the greater part of _Belfast_ belongs), Dr. Henry, from the new College, and the Presbyterians (of whom there are a great many here). Lady Londonderry and her daughter also came on board. There was some delay in getting the gang-board down, as they had made much too large a one. Some planks on board were arranged, and we landed easily in this way. The landing-place was covered in, and very tastefully decorated. We got into Lord Londonderry’s carriage with the two ladies, and Lord Londonderry himself got on the rumble behind with the two sergeant-footmen, Renwick and Birbage, both very tall, large men; and the three must have been far from comfortable.

The town was beautifully decorated with flowers, hangings, and very fine triumphal arches, the galleries full of people; and the reception very hearty. The people are a mixture of nations, and the female beauty had almost disappeared.

I have all along forgotten to say that the favourite motto written up on most of the arches, &c., and in every place, was: “Cead mile failte,” which means “A hundred thousand welcomes” in Irish, which is very like Gaelic; it is in fact _the_ language, and has existed in books from the earliest period, whereas Gaelic has only been _written_ since half a century, though it was always _spoken_. They often called out, “Cead mile failte!” and it appears in every sort of shape.

Lord Donegal rode on one side of the carriage and the General on the other. We stopped at the _Linen Hall_ to see the exhibition of the flax and linen manufacture. Lord Downshire and several other gentlemen received us there, and conducted us through the different rooms, where we saw the whole process in its different stages. First the plant, then the flax after being steeped; then the spun flax; lastly, the linen, cambric, and cloth of every sort and kind. It is really very interesting to see, and it is wonderful to what a state of perfection it has been brought.

We got into our carriages again. This time Lord Londonderry did not attempt to resume his uncomfortable position.

We went along through the _Botanic Garden_, and stopped and got out to look at the new College which is to be opened in October. It is a handsome building. We passed through several of the streets and returned to the place of embarkation. _Belfast_ is a fine town, with some good buildings--for instance, the _Bank_ and _Exchange_,--and is considered the _Liverpool_ and _Manchester_ of _Ireland_.

I have forgotten to mention the Constabulary, who are a remarkably fine body of men, 13,000 in number (altogether in _Ireland_), all Irish, and chiefly Roman Catholics; and not one of whom, during the trying times last year, fraternised with the rebels.

We left amid immense cheering, and reached the “Victoria and Albert” at half-past six. It was blowing as hard as ever, and the getting in and out was as disagreeable as before. We decided on spending the night where we were, unless the wind should drop by three or four o’clock in the morning. Many bonfires were lighted on the surrounding hills and coasts.

_Sunday, August 12._

The weather no better, and as there seemed no hope of its improvement, we decided on starting at two o’clock, and proceeding either to _Loch Ryan_ or _Lamlash_. Lord Adolphus read the service at half-past ten, at which the two eldest children were also present.

I intend to create Bertie “Earl of Dublin,” as a compliment to the town and country; he has no Irish title, though he is _born_ with several Scotch ones (belonging to the heirs to the Scotch throne, and which we have inherited from James VI. of Scotland and I. of England); and this was one of my father’s titles.

The preparations on deck for the voyage were not encouraging; the boats hoisted up, the accommodation ladders drawn quite close up, every piece of carpet removed, and everything covered; and, indeed, my worst fears were realized. We started at two, and I went below and lay down shortly after, and directly we got out of the harbour the yacht began rolling for the first three-quarters of an hour, in a way which was dreadful, and there were two rolls, when the waves broke over the ship, which I never shall forget. It got gradually better, and at five we entered _Loch Ryan_, truly thankful to be at the end of our voyage. Albert came down to me and then I went up on deck, and he told me how awful it had been. The first great wave which came over the ship threw everybody down in every direction. Poor little Affie[60] was thrown down and sent rolling over the deck, and was drenched, for the deck was swimming with water. Albert told me it was quite frightful to see the enormous waves rising like a wall above the sides of the ship. We did not anchor so high up in _Loch Ryan_ as we had done two years ago; but it was a very safe quiet anchorage, and we were very glad to be there. Albert went on shore.

[60] Prince Alfred.

_Monday, August 13._

We started at four o’clock in the morning, and the yacht rolled a little, but the motion was an easy one. We were in the _Clyde_ by breakfast-time, but the day was very bad, constant squalls hiding the scenery. We left _Greenock_ to our left, and proceeded a little way up _Loch Goil_, which opens into _Loch Long_, and is very fine; it seems extraordinary to have such deep water in a narrow loch and so immediately below the mountains, which are very rocky. We turned back and went up _Loch Long_, which I remembered so well, and which is so beautiful. We let go the anchor at _Arrochar_, the head of the lake, intending to land and proceed to _Loch Lomond_, where a steamer was waiting for us; but it poured with rain most hopelessly. We waited an hour in vain, and decided on stopping till after luncheon and making the attempt at three o’clock. We lunched and stepped into the boat, as it had cleared a little; but just then it began pouring again more violently than before, and we put back much disappointed, but Albert persevered, and he went off with Mr. Anson, Sir James Clark, and Captain Robinson almost directly afterwards. Just then it cleared and I felt so vexed that we had not gone; but there have been some terrible showers since. We left _Arrochar_ a little before four, _Loch Long_ looking beautiful as we returned.

_Perth, Tuesday, August 14._

We anchored yesterday in _Roseneath Bay_, close to _Roseneath_--a very pretty spot--and looking towards the mountains which you see in _Loch Goil_. One of them is called “The Duke of Argyll’s Bowling-green.” Albert only returned soon after eight o’clock, having been able to see a good deal of _Loch Lomond_, and even _Rob Roy’s Cave_, in spite of heavy showers. Captain Beechey (who was with us during the whole voyage in ’47, and again the whole of this one to pilot us), Captain Crispin, and Captain Robinson (who met us this morning and piloted Albert in _Loch Lomond_, and did the same for us in ’47), dined with us also, and we had much interesting conversation about the formation of glaciers, &c., in all of which Captain Beechey (who is a very intelligent man, and has been all over the world) took part. He was with Sir Edward Parry at the _North Pole_, and told us that they had not seen daylight for four months. They heaped up snow over the ship and covered it in with boards to keep the cold off.

_Balmoral, Wednesday, August 15._

It seems like a dream to be here in our dear Highland home again; it certainly does not seem as if it were a year since we were here! Now I must describe the doings of yesterday. We embarked on board the “Fairy” at a quarter to nine o’clock, and proceeded up the _Clyde_ in pouring rain and high wind, and it was very stormy till after we had passed _Greenock_. We steamed past _Port Glasgow_, then came _Dumbarton_ and _Erskine_. The river narrows and winds extraordinarily here, and you do not see _Glasgow_ until you are quite close upon it. As we approached, the banks were lined with people, either on estrades or on the sea-shore, and it was amusing to see all those on the shore take flight, often too late, as the water bounded up from the swell caused by the steamer.

The weather, which had been dreadful, cleared up, just as we reached _Glasgow_, about eleven, and continued fine for the remainder of the day. Several addresses were presented on board, first by the Lord Provost, who was knighted, (Colonel Gordon’s sword being used,) then one from the county, the clergy (Established Church and Free Kirk), and from the Houses of Commerce. We landed immediately after this; the landing-place was very handsomely decorated. We then entered our carriage with the two eldest children, the two others following. Mr. Alison (the celebrated historian, who is the Sheriff) rode on one side of the carriage, and General Riddell (the Commander of the Forces in Scotland) on the other. The crowds assembled were quite enormous, but excellent order was kept and they were very enthusiastic. Mr. Alison said that there were 500,000 people out. The town is a handsome one with fine streets built in stone, and many fine buildings and churches. We passed over a bridge commanding an extensive view down two quays, which Albert said was very like _Paris_. There are many large shops and warehouses, and the shipping is immense.

We went up to the old cathedral, where Principal Mac Farlane, a very old man, received us, and directed our attention, as we walked through the church gates, to an immensely high chimney, the highest I believe in existence, which belongs to one of the manufactories. The cathedral is a very fine one, the choir of which is fitted up as a Presbyterian church. We were shown the crypt and former burial-place of the bishops, which is in a very high state of preservation. The architecture is beautiful. It is in this crypt that the famous scene in _Rob Roy_ is laid, where Rob Roy gives Frank Osbaldistone warning that he is in danger. There is an old monument of St. Kentigern, commonly called St. Mungo, the founder of the cathedral. We re-entered our carriages and went to the _University_, an ancient building, and which has produced many great and learned men. Here we got out and received an address. We only stopped a few minutes, and then went on again towards the _Exchange_, in front of which is Marochetti’s equestrian statue of the Duke of Wellington, very like and beautifully executed. We got out at the railway station and started almost immediately.

We passed _Stirling_ in the distance, and a little before four we reached _Perth_, where the people were very friendly. We took the four children in our carriage and drove straight to the “George Inn,” where we had the same rooms that we had last time.

Albert went out immediately to see the prison, and at six we drove together along the _London Road_ (as they rather strangely call it), towards _Moncrieffe_. The view was perfectly beautiful, and is the finest of _Perth_ and the grand bridge over the _Tay_.

_Wednesday, August 15._

At a quarter to eight o’clock we started. The two boys and Vicky were in the carriage with us, Alice followed with the ladies. It was a long journey, but through very beautiful scenery. We saw the _Grampians_ as we left _Perth_. We first changed horses at _Blairgowrie_, 15 miles. Then came a very long stage of 20 miles, to the _Spittal of Glenshee_. We first passed the house of a Lieut.-Colonel Clark Rattray, called _Craig Hall_, overhanging a valley or glen above which we drove, and after this we came into completely wild Highland scenery, with barren rocky hills, through which the road winds to the _Spittal of Glenshee_, which can scarcely be called a village, for it consists of only an inn and two or three cottages. We got out at the inn, where we found Mr. Farquharson and his son, and some of his men. Here we had some luncheon, and then set off again. The next stage of 15 miles to _Castleton_ is over a very bad, and at night, positively dangerous road, through wild, grand scenery, with very abrupt turns and steep ascents. One sharp turn is called _The Devil’s Elbow_. The Farquharson men joined us again here, some having gone on before, and others having followed from the inn, skipping over stones and rocks with the rapidity and lightness peculiar to Highlanders. They remained with us till we were able to trot on again.

We drove through a very fine pass called _Cairn Wall_ and were overtaken by a heavy shower. When we reached _Castleton_ the day had cleared, and we were able to open the carriage again. Here we were met by Sir Alexander Duff and the Duke of Leeds at the head of their men. Lady Duff, Mr. and Lady Agnes Duff, Miss Farquharson, and several of the children, and the Duchess of Leeds, came up to the carriage. The drive from _Castleton_ to _Balmoral_, particularly the beautiful part from the _Balloch Buie_, was well known to us; and it was a great pleasure to see it all again in its beauty. Grant had met us at the _Spittal of Glenshee_, and ridden the whole way with us. At the door at _Balmoral_ were Mackay, who was playing, and Macdonald in full dress. It was about four when we arrived.

YACHTING EXCURSION.

_On Board the Victoria and Albert,
Dartmouth, Thursday, August 20, 1846._

We steamed past the various places on the beautiful coast of _Devonshire_ which we had passed three years ago--_Seaton_, _Sidmouth_, off which we stopped for ten minutes, _Axmouth_, _Teignmouth_, &c.;--till we came to _Babbicombe_, a small bay, where we remained an hour. It is a beautiful spot, which before we had only passed at a distance. Red cliffs and rocks with wooded hills like _Italy_, and reminding one of a ballet or play where nymphs are to appear--such rocks and grottos, with the deepest sea, on which there was not a ripple. We intended to disembark and walk up the hill; but it came on to rain very much, and we could not do so. We tried to sketch the part looking towards _Torbay_. I never saw our good children looking better, or in higher spirits. I contrived to give Vicky a little lesson, by making her read in her English history.

We proceeded on our course again at half-past one o’clock, and saw _Torquay_ very plainly, which is very fine. The sea looked so stormy and the weather became so thick that it was thought best to give up _Plymouth_ (for the third time), and to put into that beautiful _Dartmouth_, and we accordingly did so, in pouring rain, the deck swimming with water, and all of us with umbrellas; the children being most anxious to see everything. Notwithstanding the rain, this place is lovely, with its wooded rocks and church and castle at the entrance. It puts me much in mind of the beautiful _Rhine_, and its fine ruined castles, and the _Lurlei_.

I am now below writing, and crowds of boats are surrounding us on all sides.

_Plymouth Harbour, Friday, August 21._

We got under weigh by half-past six o’clock, and on looking out we saw the sea so calm and blue and the sun so bright that we determined to get up. It was a very fine day, but there was a great deal of swell. At length at half-past nine we entered the splendid harbour of _Plymouth_, and anchored again below _Mount Edgcumbe_; which, with its beautiful trees, including pines, growing down into the sea, looks more lovely than ever. I changed my dress and read innumerable letters and despatches, and then went on deck and saw the authorities--the Admirals and Generals. I did Vicky’s lessons and wrote; and at half-past one we went on board the “Fairy,” (leaving the children on board the “Victoria and Albert,”) with all our ladies and gentlemen, as well as Sir James Clark, who has joined us here. We steamed up the _Tamar_, going first a little way up the _St. Germans_ river, which has very prettily wooded banks. _Trematon Castle_ to the right, which belongs to Bertie as Duke of Cornwall, and _Jats_ to the left, are extremely pretty. We stopped here and afterwards turned back and went up the _Tamar_, which at first seemed flat; but as we proceeded the scenery became quite beautiful--richly wooded hills, the trees growing down into the water, and the river winding so much as to have the effect of a lake. In this it reminded me so much of going up the _Rhine_,--though I don’t think the river resembles the _Rhine_. Albert thought it like the _Danube_. The finest parts begin about _Saltash_, which is a small but prettily built town. To the right as you go up all is un-English looking; a little further on is the mouth of the _Tavy_; here the river becomes very beautiful. We passed numbers of mines at work. Further on, to the left, we came to _Pentillie Castle_ situated on a height most beautifully wooded down to the water’s edge, and the river winding rapidly above and below it. Albert said it reminded him of the situation of _Greinburg_ on the _Danube_. Not much further on we came to the picturesque little village and landing-place of _Cothele_, at the foot of a thickly-wooded bank, with a valley on one side. Here the river is very narrow. We landed, and drove up a steep hill under fine trees to the very curious old _House of Cothele_, where we got out of the carriage. It is most curious in every way--as it stands in the same state as it was in the time of Henry VII. and is in great preservation--the old rooms hung with arras, &c.

We drove down another way under beautiful trees and above the fine valley; embarked and proceeded down the river. The evening was beautiful, the sun bright, and the sky and sea so blue. We arrived just too late for the launch of the frigate “Thetis.” It reminded me so much of when we were here three years ago, as we approached our yacht, surrounded by myriads of boats, and had to row through them in our barge. We returned at half-past five. The evening was delightful--clear, calm, and cloudless, but a good deal of noise in the boats around us. Lord and Lady Mount Edgcumbe and Sir James Clark dined with us.

_Plymouth, Saturday, August 22._

Albert was up at six o’clock, as he was to go to _Dartmoor Forest_. At ten I went in the barge with the two children, the ladies, Baron Stockmar, and Lord Alfred Paget, and landed at _Mount Edgcumbe_, where we were received by Lady Mount Edgcumbe, her two boys, her sister and nieces, and beyond the landing-place by Lord Mount Edgcumbe. There were crowds where we landed, and I feel so shy and put out without Albert. I got into a carriage with the children and Lady Mount Edgcumbe--Lord Mount Edgcumbe going before us and the others following--and took a lovely drive along the road which overhangs the bay, commanding such beautiful views on all sides, and going under and by such fine trees. We had been there three years ago; but it is always a pleasure to see it again. The day very hot and a little hazy. We came to the house at eleven. The children went with their governess and the other children into the shade and had luncheon in the house, and I remained in the gallery--a very pretty room, with some fine pictures, and with a door opening on the garden, and commanding a lovely little bit of sea view, which I tried to sketch. A little after twelve we returned to the yacht, which had been beset with boats ever since six in the morning. Albert returned safely to me at one o’clock, much pleased with his trip; and said that _Dartmoor Forest_ was like _Scotland_.

At two we went with our ladies and gentlemen, and without the children, again to the landing-place at _Mount Edgcumbe_, where we were received as before, and drove up to the house. There are some of the finest and tallest chestnut-trees in existence here, and the beech-trees grow very peculiarly--quite tall and straight--the branches growing upwards. We walked about the gallery and looked into Lady Mount Edgcumbe’s little room at one end of it, which is charming, and full of pretty little things which she has collected, and then we took luncheon in a room where there are some fine portraits by Sir Joshua Reynolds. They are all of the Mount Edgcumbe family, one of whom was his great patron. Sir Joshua was born a few miles from _Plymouth_. There are in the same room pictures by him when he first began to paint, which have kept their colour; then when he made experiments--and these are quite faded; and again of his works when he discovered his mistakes, and the colour of his pictures is then beautiful. We walked about the garden near the house, and then drove to the “Kiosk,” by beautiful stone pines and pinasters, which interested Albert very much, and put me so much in mind of Mr. Lear’s drawings. The view from this “Kiosk,” which is very high over the sea and town, is most beautiful, and the sea was like glass, not a ripple to be seen. We walked down a very pretty road or path through the woods and trees till we met the carriage, and we drove along that beautiful road, which is said to be a little like the _Cornice_, overhanging the sea, down to the place of embarkation, where we took leave of them all, and returned to our yacht by half-past four. Poor Lord Mount Edgcumbe is in such a sad, helpless state; but so patient and cheerful. We went on board just to fetch the children, and then on to the “Fairy,” and steamed in her round the harbour, or rather bay, in which there are such pretty spots; into the _Cat Water_, from whence we rowed in one of the barges a little way up the river to look at _Saltram_, Lord Morley’s; after that back to the “Fairy,” went in her into _Mill Bay_, _Sutton Pool_, and _Stonehouse_, and returned to the yacht by half-past six.

_In Guernsey Bay, off St. Pierre, Guernsey,
Sunday, August 23._

On waking, the morning was so lovely that we could not help regretting that we could not delay our trip a little, by one day at least, as the Council which was to have been on the 25th is now on the 29th. We thought, however, we could do nothing but sail for _Torbay_, at half-past nine, and for _Osborne_ on Monday. While dressing, I kept thinking whether we could not manage to see _Falmouth_, or something or other. Albert thought we might perhaps manage to see one of the _Channel Islands_, and accordingly he sent for Lord Adolphus Fitzclarence, and it was settled that we should go to _Guernsey_, which delighted me, as I had so long wished to see it. The day splendid. The General and Admiral came on board to take leave. Sir J. West is the Admiral, and General Murray, the General; and at about half-past nine we set off, and the sea the whole way was as calm as it was in ’43. _Plymouth_ is beautiful, and we shall always be delighted to return there.

For two hours we were in expectation of seeing land; but it was very hazy, and they did not know where we were--till about six, when land was seen by the “Fairy,” who came to report it, and then all the other vessels went on before us. As we approached we were struck by the beauty of the _Guernsey_ coast, in which there are several rocky bays, and the town of _St. Pierre_ is very picturesquely built, down to the water’s edge. You see _Sark_ (or _Sercq_) as you enter the harbour to the right, and further on, close opposite _St. Pierre_, two islands close together--_Herm_ and _Jethou_. The bay with these fine islands is really most curious. We anchored at seven, immediately opposite _St. Pierre_, and with the two islands on the other side of us. We dined at eight, and found on going on deck the whole town illuminated, which had a very pretty effect, and must have been done very quickly, for they had no idea of our coming. It is built like a foreign town. The people speak mostly French amongst themselves.

_August 24._

_St. Pierre_ is very picturesque-looking--with very high, bright-coloured houses built down almost into the sea. The College and Church are very conspicuous buildings. This island with its bold point, and the little one of _Cornet_ with a sort of castle on it (close to which we were anchored), and the three islands of _Herm_, _Jethou_, and _Sark_, with innumerable rocks, are really very fine and peculiar,--especially as they then were in bright sunlight. We both sketched, and at a quarter to nine got into our barge with our ladies. The pier and shore were lined with crowds of people, and with ladies dressed in white, singing “God save the Queen,” and strewing the ground with flowers. We walked to our carriage, preceded by General Napier, brother to Sir Charles (in _Scinde_), a very singular-looking old man, tall and thin, with an aquiline nose, piercing eyes, and white moustaches and hair. The people were extremely well-behaved and friendly, and received us very warmly as we drove through the narrow streets, which were decorated with flowers and flags, and lined with the _Guernsey_ militia, 2,000 strong, with their several bands. Some of the militia were mounted.

The vegetation beyond the town is exceedingly fine; and the evergreens and flowers most abundant. The streets and hills steep, and the view from the fort, which is very high, (and where General Napier presented me with the keys,) is extremely beautiful. You look over the bay of _Guernsey_, and see opposite to you the islands of _Herm_, _Jethou_, and _Sark_; with _Alderney_, and the coast of _France_, _Cape de la Hague_, to the left in the distance, and to the right in the distance, _Jersey_. The island appears very flourishing. In the town they speak English, but in the country French, and this is the same in all the islands. They belonged to the Duchy of Normandy, and have been in our possession ever since William the Conqueror’s time. King John[61] was the last of their sovereigns who visited them. We drove along the pier, and then embarked amidst great cheering. It was all admirably managed; the people are extremely loyal.

[61] For King John’s visit, see Roger de Wendover, a contemporary chronicler.--ED.

We got under weigh a little before one and in about an hour-and-a-half we came close to _Alderney_, seeing all the time the French coast, _Cape de la Hague_, very plainly to our right, and leaving the _Casquets Lights_ to our left. _Alderney_ is quite different from all the other islands, excessively rocky and barren, and the rocks in and under the sea are most frightful.

SECOND YACHTING EXCURSION.

_On Board the Victoria and Albert,
Off St. Heliers, Jersey,
Wednesday, September 2, 1846._

At a quarter-past seven o’clock we set off with Vicky, Bertie, Lady Jocelyn, Miss Kerr, Mdlle. Gruner, Lord Spencer, Lord Palmerston, and Sir James Clark (Mr. Anson and Colonel Grey being on board the “Black Eagle”), and embarked at _Osborne Pier_. There was a good deal of swell. It was fine, but very cold at first. At twelve we saw _Alderney_, and between two and three got into the _Alderney Race_, where there was a great deal of rolling, but not for long. We passed between _Alderney_ and the French coast--_Cape de la Hague_--and saw the other side of _Alderney_; and then, later, _Sark_, _Guernsey_, and the other islands. After passing the _Alderney Race_, it became quite smooth; and then Bertie put on his sailor’s dress, which was beautifully made by the man on board who makes for our sailors. When he appeared, the officers and sailors, who were all assembled on deck to see him, cheered, and seemed delighted with him.

The coast of _Jersey_ is very beautiful, and we had to go nearly all round, in order to get to _St. Heliers_. We first passed the point called _Rondnez_, then _Grosnez_ with a tower, _St. Ouen’s Bay_, _La Rocca_, a curious old tower on a rock, and then _Brelade’s Bay_. The red cliffs and rocks, with the setting sun gilding and lighting them all up, were beautiful. At last, at a quarter to seven, we arrived in this fine large bay of _St. Aubin_, in which lies _St. Heliers_; and after dinner we went on deck to see the illumination and the bonfires.

_Off St. Heliers,
Thursday, September 3._

A splendid day. I never saw a more beautiful deep blue sea, quite like _Naples_; and Albert said that this fine bay of _St. Aubin_, in which we lie, really is like the _Bay of Naples_. _Noirmont Point_ terminates in a low tower to our left, with _St. Aubin_ and a tower on a rock in front of it; farther in, and to our right, _Elizabeth Castle_, a picturesque fort on a rock, with the town of _St. Heliers_ behind it.

The colouring and the effect of light were indescribably beautiful. We got into our barge with our ladies and gentlemen, and then went on board the “Fairy,” until we were close to the harbour, and then we got into the barge again. We landed at the stairs of the _Victoria Harbour_, amid the cheers of the numberless crowds, guns firing, and bands playing; were received, as at _Guernsey_, by all the ladies of the town, very gaily dressed, who, strewing flowers on our way, conducted us to a canopy, where I received the address of the States and of the militia.