Chapter II: Appendix: Pavia

Canal from Milan to Pavia, 221.—Cathedral at Pavia, 221.—Church of the
Carmine, 221.—San Francesco, 222.—San Salvadore, 222.—San Michele,
222.—San Pietro in Cielo d’Oro, 222.—Church erected by Pellegrino
Pellegrini, 223.—University, 223.—Bridge over Ticino, 223.—Botanic
garden, 223.—Certosa, 223.

LETTER XVI.

VERONA.

Journey to Verona, 225.—Theatre at Brescia, 225.—Lago di guarda,
225.—Amphitheatre at Verona, 225.—Roman gateway, 227.—Bridges,
227.—Church of Santa Anastasia, 227.—Cathedral, 228.—Church of St.
Zeno, 229.—Cloisters of St. Zeno, 231.—Old church of St. Zeno,
231.—Tomb of Pepin, 232.—Remains of the Bishop’s Palace,
232.—Pellegrini chapel, 232.—Relicks, 233.—San Fermo, 235.—Freedom in
examining churches, 236.—Tombs of the Scaligers, 236.—Sanmicheli,
236.—Fortification, 237.—Palaces, 237.—Tomb of Juliet, 237.

LETTER XVII.

VICENZA—PADUA.

Journey to Vicenza, 238.—Vicenza, 238.—Lombard money, 239.—Palladio,
239.—Basilica, 240.—Palazzo Capitanale, 241.—Fabbrica Conte Porto al
Castello, 241.—Palazzo Tiene, 241.—Triumphal arch, 242.—Church of
Madonna del Monte, 242.—Rotonda, 242.—Palazzo Valmarana, 243.—Palazzo
Trissino, 243.—Palazzo Barbarano, 244.—House of Palladio, 244.—Palazzo
Chiericati, 244.—Palazzo del Conte Orazio da Porto, 244.—Olympic
theatre, 244.—Church of Santa Corona, 245.—Cathedral, 245.—Padua,
245.—Church of St. Antony, 246.—Church of the Eremitani, 247.—Church
of the Arena, 247.—Baptistery, 247.—Palazzo di Ragione, 247.—Church of
Santa Giustina, 248.—Cathedral, 248.—Church of La Madre Dolente,
249.—University, 249.—Tomb of Antenor, 249.—Museum of the Palazzo
Gazzola, 249.—Painting, 249.

LETTER XVIII.

VENICE.

Journey to Venice, 251.—Venice and Venetian life, 251.—Italian theatre,
253.—Piazza di San Marco, 255.—Orologio, 256.—Campanile, 256.—Church
of St. Mark, 256.—Ducal palace, 261.—Harbour and canal of the
Giudecca, 262.—Venetian palaces, 263.

LETTER XIX.

VENICE.

Gondolas, 265.—Santa Maria gloriosa de’ Frari, 265.—Santi Giovanni e
Paolo, 266.—S. Stefano, 266.—Santa Maria del Carmine, 266.—San
Zaccaria, 267.—Ducal palace, 267.—San Jacopo in Rivo alto. 268.—Scuola
di San Rocco, 269.—Procuratie Vecchie, 269.—Zecca, 270.—Procuratie
Nuove, 270.—Campanile, 270.—Loggia, 270.—Sansovino, 271.—Church of San
Martino, 271.—San Giorgio de’ Greci, 271.—Church of San Francesco
della Vigna, 271.—Redentore, 272.—St. George, 273.—S. Nicola de’
Tolentini, 273.—San Pietro in Castello, 274.—S. Simeon Piccolo,
274.—Santa Maria del Rosario, called Gesuati, 274.—San Barnaba,
274.—Santa Maria della Salute, 274.—Santissimo Salvadore,
275.—Prigione Nuove, 275.—Lions, 275.—Pictures, 276.—Painted outsides
of houses, 277.

LETTER XX.

BOLOGNA.

Journey to Bologna, 278.—Residence at Bologna, 279.—Roman money,
279.—Paintings of Bolognese school, 280.—Church of San Petronio,
280.—San Stefano, 282.—San Giacomo maggiore, 283.—Cathedral, 283.—San
Giorgio, 283.—San Salvadore, 284.—San Paolo, 284.—San Bartolommeo,
284.—San Domenico, 284.—Madonna del Monte, 284.—Portico, 285.—Certosa,
285.—Palazzo Ranuzzi, 285.—Torre degli Asinelli, 285.—Torre Garisendi,
285.—Disputations in Romish church, 286.—State of Italy,
286.—Superstition at Bologna, 291.—Mezzofanti, 292.

LETTER XXI.

FLORENCE.

Journey from Bologna, 294.—Vetturino system, 294.—Apennines,
294.—Italian time, 295.—Florence, 295.—Cathedral, 295.—Different
notions of antiquity, 299.—Campanile, 299.—Baptistery, 299.—Church of
Santa Croce, 300.—San Remigio, 301.—Santi Apostoli, 301.—Unfinished
fronts, 301.—Santa Maria Novella, 301.—San Lorenzo, 302.—Sagrestia
nuova, 304.—M. A. Buonarroti, 304.—Burying-place of the Medici,
304.—Church of Santo Spirito, 305.—Annunziata, 306.—Madonna del
Carmine, 306.—St. Mark, 307.—Cose stupende, 307.—Old nobility of
Florence, 307.—Palazzo Vecchio, 308.—Loggia, 308.—Gallery,
309.—Palazzo Pitti, 309.—Palazzo Riccardi, 309.—Palazzo Strozzi,
310.—Palazzo Pandolfini, 310.—Casa Michelozzi, 311.

LETTER XXII.

JOURNEY TO ROME.

Fiesole, 312.—Journey to Siena, 312.—Siena, 313.—Gutturals,
313.—Piazza, 313.—Cathedral of Siena, 313.—Hospital, 315.—Church of
San Domenico, 315.—History of Siena, 315.—Neighbourhood of Siena,
315.—Ventriloquist, 316.—Radicofani, 317.—Acquapendente, 317.—Lake
of Bolsena, 318.—Bolsena, 318.—Monte Fiascone, 319.—Orvieto,
319.—Cathedral, 319.—Bishop’s palace, 321.—Church of San Michele,
322.—Church of San Domenico, 322.—Church of San Lorenzo, 322.—Well
of Sangallo, 322. Palazzo Soliana, 322.—Pal. Gualtieri,
322.—Bollicame, 322.—Viterbo, 323.—Cathedral, 323.—Church of the
Trinità, 323.—S. Francesco, 323.—Monte Cimino, 323.—Lake of Vico,
323.—Capraruola, 323.—Church of the Teresiane, 324.—Ronciglione,
324.—Campagna, 324.—Sutri, 324.—Amphitheatre, 325.—Subterranean
church, 325.—Bridge, 325.—Baccano, 326.—Arrival at Rome, 326.

LETTER XXIII.

ROMAN ANTIQUITIES.

General impressions, 327.—Capitol, 327.—Palatine hill, 328.—Disposition
of hills, 329.—Lodging, 330.—Steps of the Trinità, 330.—Forum,
330.—Capitoline hill, 331.—Tabularium, 331.—Temple of Jupiter Tonans,
331.—Richness of detail in Roman architecture, 332.—Temple of Concord,
332.—Arch of Septimius Severus, 333.—Mamertine prisons, 333.—Column of
Phocas, 334.—Temple of Saturn, 334.—Temple of Antoninus and Faustina,
334.—Temple of Romulus and Remus, 335.—Jupiter Stator, 335.—Form of
shaft of the columns, 337.—Effect of slight variations, 337.—Temple of
Peace, 338.—Progress of architecture in Rome, 338.—Arch of Titus,
340.—Temple of Venus and Rome, 341.—Coliseum, 341.—Arch of
Constantine, 342.—Baths of Titus, 342.—Vivarium, 344.—Baths of Livia,
345.—Palace of the Cæsars, 345.

LETTER XXIV.

ROMAN ANTIQUITIES.

Temple of Romulus, 346.—Forum Boarium, 346.—Arch of Janus, 347.—Arch of
the goldsmiths, 347.—Cloaca maxima, 347.—Temple of Patrician Modesty,
348.—Temple of Vesta, 348.—Foliage of the Corinthian capital,
349.—Greek and Roman styles of ornament, 349.—Temple of Fortuna
Virilis, 350.—House of Rienzi, 350.—Pons Palatinus, 350.—Temples of
Filial Piety, &c. 350.—Theatre of Marcellus, 351.—Theatre of Pompey,
351.—Portico of Octavia, 351.—Baths of Agrippa, 351.—Pantheon,
352.—Use of bricks, 353.—Use of discharging arches, 353.—Pyramidal
form in buildings, 354.—Coffers on domes, 357.—Basilica of Antoninus,
359.

LETTER XXV.

ST. PETER’S.

History of the building, 361.—Model, 362.—Expense, 365.—Cracks,
366.—Sacristy, 367.—Cause of its want of apparent magnitude
externally, 369.—Internally, 372.—Sculpture in the church, 374.—Change
of design from Greek to Latin cross, 377.—Gilding, 378.—Effect of
magnificence, 380.—Pietà of Michael Angelo, 380.—Monuments,
380.—Mosaic, 381.

LETTER XXVI.

BASILICAN CHURCHES.

San Paolo fuori delle mura, 383.—Churches visited to obtain indulgences,
383.—Churches which have the Porta santa, 383.—Patriarchal churches,
383.—Ancient basilica of St. Peter, 386.—St. John Lateran,
387.—Corsini chapel, 388.—Cloisters, 388.—Scala santa,
389.—Triclinium, 390.—Baptistery of Constantine, 390.—Santa Croce in
Gerusalemme, 390.—Santa Maria in Trastevere, 391.—S. M. di Ara Cœli,
391.—San Grisogono, 392.—Quattro santi, 393.—San Pietro in Vincolis,
393.—Figure of Moses, 394.—Santa Agnese fuori delle mura, 394.—Temple
of Bacchus, 395.—San Lorenzo fuori delle mura, 396.—Santa Maria
Maggiore, 397.—Chapels, 399.—Santa Sabina, 399.—St. Clement,
400.—Small courts, 400.—San Martino de’ Monti, 401.—Baths of Trajan,
401.—Santa Pudenziana, 401.—Santa Prassede, 402.—Santa Maria in
Domnica, 402.—Marble boat, 402.—San Giorgio in Velabro, 402.—Ancient
towers, 402.

LETTER XXVII.

LIVING AT ROME—MODERN CHURCHES.

Roman life, 404.—Play at Orphan school, 407.—Carnival, 407.—Race,
408.—Festina, 409.—Display of military authority, 410.—Italian
language, 410.—Climate, 411.—Roman churches, 412.—Method of lighting,
413.—Church of S. Andrea, 414.—St. Ignazio, 415.—Church of the
Jesuits, 416.—Santi Apostoli, 417.—Santa Agnese in Piazza Navona,
417.—San Carlo alle quattro fontane, 417.—Sant Andrea del Noviziato,
418.—Santa Maria di Consolazione, 418.—Three smaller churches,
418.—Santa Maria in Campitelli, 418.

LETTER XXVIII.

ROME.

Roman spring, 419.—Easter ceremonies, 419.—Benediction, 425.—Vatican
palace, 426.—Sistine chapel, 426.—Galleries of Vatican, 428.—Arazzi of
Raphael, 428.—Camere of Raphael, 429.—Loggie of Raphael, 430.—Mode of
considering paintings, 430.—Museum, 432.—Statues, 433.—Greek and Roman
schools of art, 434.—Library, 436.—Omission of cornice, 437.

LETTER XXIX.

PALACES OF ROME.

General observations, 438.—Campidoglio, 439.—Museum, 442.—Cancellaria,
443.—Palazzo Giraud, 444.—Sora, 444.—Stoppani, 444.—Massimi,
445.—Farnesina, 445.—Architecture of Sangallo, 446.—Palazzo Saccheti,
446.—Farnese, 446.—Competitions, 447.—Architecture of Giulio Romano,
448.—Palazzo Cenci, 448.—Architecture of Vignola, 449.—Court of
Palazzo Farnese, 449.—Church of Sant Andrea, 449.—Villa Giulia,
449.—Palazzo Alessandrini, 450.—Ruspoli, 450.—Quirinale,
450.—Combination of colours, 451.—Horses of Phidias and Praxiteles,
452.—Palazzo della Consulta, 452.—Architecture of Fontana, 453.—Palace
of St. John Lateran, 453.—Sapienza, 453.—Architecture of Bernini,
454.—Palazzo della Propaganda, 454.—Ghigi, 454.—Barberini,
454.—Architecture of Borromini, 454.

LETTER XXX.

ROME.

Piazza di Spagna, 456.—Piazza del popolo, 456.—Public gardens,
457.—French academy, 457.—Church of the Trinità de Monti,
458.—Capuchin convent, 458.—Piazza Barberini, 458.—Quirinal hill,
459.—Viminal, 459.—Esquiline, 459.—Church of St. Antony, 459.—Trophies
of Marius, 459.—Arch of Gallienus, 459.—Temple of Pallas, 460.—Temple
of Mars Ultor, 460.—Baths of Paulus Æmilius, 461.—Forum of Trajan,
461.—Column of Trajan, 462.—Basilica of Trajan, 462.—Church of Nome di
Maria, 463.—Church of Santa Maria di Loreto, 463.—Effect of gilding,
463.—Sepulchre of C. P. Bibulus, 463.—Colonna palace, 463.—Baths of
Constantine, 464.—Enormous fragment, 464.—Fountain of Trevi,
465.—Loggia of the Palazzo Rospigliosi, 465.

LETTERS OF AN ARCHITECT.