Chapter II: Letter THE TENTH

San Fernando--House of Perez de Galvez--A Removal--Size of the Houses--Old Monastery--View by Sunset--Evening Visits--Mexican Etiquette--A Night-- view from the Azotea-Tacubaya--Magueys--Making of Pulque--Organos and Nopal--Environs of Mexico--Miracle--Hacienda--View from the Countess C--- a's House--Arzobispado--Anecdote--Comparative View of Beauty--Indians-- Rancheritas--Mexican Cordiality--Masses for the Dead--San Agustin--Form of Invitation--Death of a Senator--A Mistake

LETTER THE ELEVENTH

Calle de Tacuba--The Leap of Alvarado--The "Noche Triste"--Sale of a Curate's Goods--Padre Leon--Leprosy--Pictures--The Annunciation--The Alameda--Paseo de Bucarelli--The Viga--Indians in Canoes--A Murder--A Country Fête--Visit to the Colegia Vizcaino--The Jota Arragonesa--Old Soldiers

LETTER THE TWELFTH

The Viga during the Carnival--Variety of Equipages--The Millionaires--The Monks--Masked Ball--An Alarming Sight--Medical Students--Dinner at the Prussian Minister's--Rides on Horseback--Indian Love of Flowers--Santa Anita--The Chinampas--Their Origin--Indians in Canoes--Song of "El Palomo"--Fighting--The Great Lakes--The Drain of Huehuetoca--The Great Market of Tlatelolco

LETTER THE THIRTEENTH

Convent of San Joaquin--Mexico in the Morning--Tacuba--Carmelite Prior-- Convent Garden--Hacienda of Los Morales--El Olivar--A _Huacamaya_-- Humming-birds--Correspondence--Expected Consecration--Visit to the Mineria--Botanic Garden--Arbol de las Manitas--The Museum--Equestrian Statue--Academy of Painting and Sculpture--Disappointment

LETTER THE FOURTEENTH

Palm Sunday--Holy Thursday--Variety of Costumes--San Francisco--Santa Domingo--Santa Teresa--Nuns--Stone Bust--The Academy--Religious Procession--Pilgrimage to the Churches--Santa Clara--Nun's Voice--Orange- trees and Rose-bushes--The Cathedral Illuminated--Our Saviour in Chains-- Good Friday--The Great Square towards Evening--Dresses of Men, Women, and Children--Approach of the Host--Judas--Great Procession--_Miserere_--The Square by Moonlight--A Lonely Walk--_Sabado de Gloria_--Ball in Contemplation--Weekly Soirées--Embroidered Muslins--A Tertulia at Home

LETTER THE FIFTEENTH

Letter from the Archbishop--Visit to the "_Encarnación_"--Reception-- Description--The Novices--Convent Supper--Picturesque Scene--Sonata on the Organ--Attempt at Robbery--Alarms of the Household--Visit to San Agustin-- Anonymous Letter--The Virgin _de los Remedios_--Visit to the Chapel--The Padre--The Image--Anecdote of the Large Pearl--A Mine

LETTER THE SIXTEENTH

Mexico in May--Leave Mexico for Santiago--Coach of Charles X.--Mexican Travelling--General Aspect of the Country--Village of Santa Clara-- Robbers' House--Temples of the Sun and Moon--San Juan--Mexican Posada-- School-house--Skulls--Hard Fare--Travelling Dress--Sopayuca--Military Administrador--Santiago--Matadors and Picadors--Evenings in the Country-- Dances--Mexican Songs--Cempoala--Plaza de Toros--Skill of the Horsemen-- Omatusco--Accident--Tulansingo--Beautiful Garden--Mexican Dishes--Fruits-- Horses--Games of Forfeits--Ranchera's Dress--Young Girls and their Admirers--Verses--Knowledge of Simple Medicine--Indian Baths--Hidden Treasures--Anecdote

LETTER THE SEVENTEENTH

Arrival at Tepenacasco--Lake with Wild-ducks--Ruined Hacienda--Sunset on the Plains--Troop of Asses--Ride by Moonlight--Leave Tepenacasco--San Miguel--Description--Thunderstorm--Guasco--Journey to Real del Monte-- English Road--Scenery--Village of Real--Count de Regla--Director's House-- English Breakfast--Visit to the Mines--Mining Speculations--Grand Scenery --Visit to Regla--The Cascade--The Storm--Loneliness--A Journey in Storm and Darkness--Return to Tepenacasco--Journey to Sopacuya--Narrow Escape-- Famous Bull--Return to Mexico

LETTER THE EIGHTEENTH

English Ball--Dresses--Diamonds--Mineria--Arrival of the Pope's Bull-- Consecration of the Archbishop--Foreign Ministers--Splendour of the Cathedral--Description of the Ceremony

LETTER THE NINETEENTH

Mexican Servants--Anecdotes--Remedies--An unsafe Porter--Galopinas--The Reboso--The Sarape--Women-cooks--Foreign Servants--Characteristics of Mexican Servants--Servants' Wages--Nun of the Santa Teresa--Motives for Taking the Veil

LETTER THE TWENTIETH

The Convent Entry--Dialogue--A Chair in Church--Arrival of the Nun--Dress --José Maria--Crowd--Withdrawal of the Black Curtain--The Taking of the Veil--The Sermon--A Dead Body--Another Victim--Convent of the Encarnación --Attempt at a Hymn--Invitation--Morning Visit--The Nun and her Mother-- Banquet--Taking Leave--Ceremony of the Veil-taking--A Beautiful Victim-- The Last Look--Presentation to the Bishop--Reflections--Verses

LETTER THE TWENTY-FIRST

San Agustin--The Gambling Fête--The Beauties of the Village--The Road from Mexico--Entry to San Agustin--The Gambling Houses--San Antonio--The Pedregal--Last Day of the Fête--The Cockpit--The Boxes--The Cock-fight-- Decorum--Comparisons--Dinner--Ball at Calvario--House of General Moran-- View of the Gambling Tables--The Advocate--Ball at the Plaza de Gallos-- Return to Mexico--Reflections--Conversation between two Ministers

LETTER THE TWENTY-SECOND

Countess C---a--Gutierrez Estrada--Dinner at General Moran's--Dowager Marquesa--Fête at San Antonio--Approach of the Rainy Season--Diamonds and Plate--Great Ball--Night Traveling--Severe Storm--Chapter of Accidents-- Corpus Christ!--Poblana Dress--Book Club--Ball--Humming Bird--Franciscan Friar--Missions to Old and New California--Zeal and Endurance of the Missionaries--Present Condition--Convent Gardener

LETTER THE TWENTY-THIRD

The President--Yturbide--Visit from the Archbishop--Señor Canedo--General Almonte--Señor Cuevas--Situation of an Archbishop in Mexico--Of Señor Posada--His Life--Mexican Charity--Wax Figures--Anecdote--Valuable Present--Education--Comparison--Schools--Opportunities--Natural Talent-- Annual--Compliments to the Mexican Ladies by the Editor--Families of the Old School--Morals--Indulgence--Manners--Love of Country--Colleges

LETTER THE TWENTY-FOURTH

Revolution in Mexico--Gomez Farias and General Urrea--The Federalists--The President Imprisoned--Firing--Cannon--First News--Escape--Proclamation of the Government--Cannonading--Count C---a--Houses Deserted--Countess del V---e--Proclamation of the Federalists--Circular of the Federalists-- Scarcity of Provisions--Bursting of a Shell--Refugees--Dr. Plan--Young Lady Shot--Gomez Farias--Rumours--Address of Gomez Farias--Balls and Bullets--Visit from the ----- Minister--Arrival of Monsieur de ------- Expected Attack--Skirmish--Appearance of the Street--San Cosme--General-- The Count de B------ More Rumours--Suspense--Cannonading--Government Bulletin--Plan of the Rebels Defeated--Proclamation of the President--Of General Valencia--Maternal Affection--Fresh Reports--Families leaving the City--Letter from Santa Anna--Bustamante's Letter when imprisoned-- Propositions--Refusal--Taoubaya--Archbishop--Fresh Proposals--Refusal-- Second Letter from Santa Anna--Government Bulletin--Proclamations--An awkward Mistake--The Archbishop visits the President--Conclusion of the Revolution--Government Newspapers--Circulars

LETTER THE TWENTY-FIFTH

Plan of the Federalists--Letter from Farias--Signing of Articles-- Dispersion of the "Pronunciados"--Conditions--Orders of General Valencia-- Of the Governor--Address of General Valencia--Departure of our Guests--The _Cosmopolita_--State of the Palace and Streets--Bulletin of the Firing-- Interior of Houses--Escape of Families--Conduct of the Troops--Countess del V---e-- Santa Anna--Congress--Anecdote--Discussion in Congress--Leprosy

LETTER THE TWENTY-SIXTH

Visitors--Virgin de los Remedies--_Encarnación_--Fears of the Nuns--Santa Teresa--Rainy Season--Amusing Scene--"_Está a la disposición de V._"-- Mexican Sincerity--Texian Vessels--Fine Hair--Schoolmistress--Climate--Its Effects--Nerves--_Tours de Force_--Anniversary--Speech--Paseo--San Angel-- Tacubaya--Army of "The Three Guarantees"--Plan of Yguala--A Murder--Indian Politeness--Drunkenness--Señor Canedo--Revolutions in Mexico--The Penon-- The Baths--General ------- --Situation and View--Indian Family--Of the Boiling Springs--Capabilities--Solitude--Chapultepec--The _Desagravios_-- Penitence at San Francisco--Discipline of the Men--Discourse of the Monk-- Darkness and Horrors--Salmagundi

LETTER THE TWENTY-SEVENTH

Fête-day--Friendly Hint--Precautions--General Tranquillity--President in San Agustin--Revisit Museum--Ancient Manuscripts--Sculpture--Bronze Bust, etc.--Freshness after Rain--Ball at the French Minister's--Pamphlet-- Gutierrez Estrada--His Character--Concealment--_Mexicalsingo_--Minister of the Treasury--Archbishop's Permission--Paintings--Mexican Painters--Santa Teresa--Description of the Interior--The Penitences--Tortures-- Disciplines, etc.--Supper--Profane Ballads--Monasteries--San Francisco-- Padre Prior--Soldiers and Friars

LETTER THE TWENTY-EIGHTH

_día de Muertos_--Leave Mexico--_Herraderos_--San Cristobal--Tunas--Plaza de Toros--Throwing the _Laso_--Accidents--Rustic Breakfast--Country Fare-- Baked Meat--Indian Market--Buried Bull--Mountain--Solitary _Hacienda_-- _Reyes_--Mules marked--Return--Queen of Spain's Birthday--Diplomatic Dinner

LETTER THE TWENTY-NINTH

Virgin of _Cavadonga_--Santo Domingo--Decorations and Music-- Daguerreotype--Weekly Soirées--An Arrival--An Earthquake--Honourable Mr. ----- --Broken Furniture--_Dios_--Day of the Virgin of Guadalupe--Party to the _Desierto_--_Itzcuintepotzotli_--Inn of _Guajimalco_--Ruined Convent-- Its Origin--_Dejeune a la Fourchette_--Splendid Scenery--Vow to the Virgin--Musical Mass--Tacuba--Ride with the Prior

LETTER THE THIRTIETH

Christmas-day--Kalends and Mass--Amateur Performances--Solo--_Posadas_-- Wandering of the Holy Family--_Nacimiento_--Crowded Party--French Cooks-- Mexican Cook--State of Household--New Year's Day--Mass--Dirtiness of the Churches, etc.--Comparisons--Private Chapels--English Club--Preparations for Journey

LETTER THE THIRTY-FIRST

Leave Mexico--Cuernavaca--_Tierra Caliente_--_Atlacamulco_--Orange Groves --Sugar-cane--Annual Produce--Will of Cortes--Description--Coffee Plantation--Scorpions--List of Venomous Reptiles--_Aspansingo_--Doubts and Difficulties--A Decision

LETTER THE THIRTY-SECOND

Leave _Atlacamulco_--Assemble by Starlight--Balmy Atmosphere--Flowers and Trees of the Tropics--The Formidable _Barrancas_--Breakfast under the Trees--Force of the Sun--_Meacatlan_--Hospitality--Profitable Estate-- Leave Meacatlan--Beautiful Village--Musical Bells--Ride by Moonlight-- Sugar Fires--Cocoyotla--Old Gentleman--Supper--Orange-trees and Cocoas-- Delicious Water--Sugar Estates--_A Scorpion_--Set off for the Cave-- Morning Ride--Dangerous Path

LETTER THE THIRTY-THIRD

Cave of _Cacahuamilpa_--Superstition--Long-bearded Goat--Portal-- Vestibule--Fantastic Forms--Breakfast--Pine Torches--Noble Hall-- Stalactites and Stalagmites--Egyptian Pyramids--Double Gallery--Wonderful Formations--Corridor--Frozen Landscape--Amphitheatre--World in Chaos-- Skeleton--Wax Lights--Hall of Angels--Return--Distant Light--Indian Alcalde--_Cautlamilpas_--Rancho--Return to Cocoyotla--Chapel--Meacatlan-- Eclipse of the Moon--Benighted Travellers--Indian Village--_El Puente_-- Return to _Atlacamulco_

LETTER THE THIRTY-FOURTH

Ride by Starlight--Fear of Robbers--Tropical Wild Flowers--Stout Escort-- _Hautepec_--Hacienda of _Cocoyoc_--A Fire--Three Thousand Orange-trees-- Coffee Mills, etc.--Variety of Tropical Fruits--Prodigality of Nature-- _Casasano_--Celebrated Reservoir--Ride to Santa Clara--A Philosopher--A Scorpion--Leave Santa Clara--Dangerous _Barranca_--_Colon_--Agreeable House--Civil _Administrador_--San Nicolas--Solitude--Franciscan Friar-- Rainy Morning--Pink Turban--Arrival at _Atlisco_--Cypress--Department of Puebla--Volcanoes--Doña Marina--Verses--_Popocatepetl_--Cholula--Great Pyramid--Arrival at Puebla

LETTER THE THIRTY-FIFTH

Theatre--Portmanteaus--Visitors--Houses of Puebla--Fine Arts--Paseo--Don N. Ramos Arispe--Bishop--Cotton Factories--Don Esteban Antunano--Bank of _Avio_--United States Machinery--Accidents--Difficulties--Shipwrecks-- Detentions--Wonderful Perseverance--"_La Constancia Mejicana_" Hospital-- Prison--El Carmen--Paintings--Painted Floors--Angels--Cathedral--Gold and Jewels--A Comedy--Bishop's Palace--Want of Masters

LETTER THE THIRTY-SIXTH

Concert--Diligence--Leave Puebla--Escort--View from the Cathedral Towers-- Black Forest-History of the Crosses-Tales of Murder--An Alarm--Report of a Skirmish--Rio Frio--Law Concerning Robbers--Their _Moderation_-Return to Mexico--Carnival Ball--Improvement in Dress

LETTER THE THIRTY-SEVENTH

Distinguished Men--Generals Bustamante, Santa Anna, and Victoria-- Anecdote--Señor Pedraza--Señor Gutierrez Estrada--Count Cortina--Señor Gorostiza--Don Carlos Bustamante--"Mornings in the Alameda"--Don Andrés Quintana Roo--Don Lucas Alaman--General Moran--General Almonte--Señor Canedo--Señors Neri del Barrio and Casaflores--Doctor Valentin--Don Francisco Tagle--Eight Revolutions

LETTER THE THIRTY-EIGHTH

New Minister--San Angel--Profitable Pulque Estate--The Village-- Surrounding Scenery--The Indians--The Padre--The Climate--Holy Week in the Country--Dramatic Representations--Coyohuacan--The Pharisees--Image of the Saviour--Music and Dresses--Procession-Catholicism amongst the Indians-- Strange Tradition--Paul the Fifth--Contrast between a Mexican and a New England Village--Love of Fireworks--Ferdinand the Seventh--Military Ball-- _Drapeaux_

LETTER THE THIRTY-NINTH

Holy Thursday at Coyohuacan--Hernan Cortes--His Last Wishes--_Padres Camilas_-Old Church--Procession--Representation of the Taking of Christ-- Curate's Sermon under the Trees--A Religious Drama--Good Friday--Portable Pulpit--Heat--Booths--Religious Procession--Simon the Cyrenian--Costumes-- Curate's Sermon--Second Discourse--Sentence Pronounced by Pontius Pilate-- Descent from the Cross--Procession of the Angels--Funeral Hymn--The _Pesame_ to the Virgin--Sermon--"Sweet Kitty Clover"--Music in Mexico-- Anecdote

LETTER THE FORTIETH

Balloon--San Bartolo--Indian Women--A Beauty--Different Castes--Indians-- Their Character, etc.--Those of Noble Race--Ball at the French Minister's --_Abecilla_--Danger of Walking Unattended--Shooting Party--A Murder-- Robbery of a Farmhouse--Discomfited Robber Captain--The "_Zambos_"-- Letters and Visitors--Country Life in Mexico

LETTER THE FORTY-FIRST

Gambling--Fête at San Agustin--Breakfast at San Antonio--Report--Cock- fight--Ladies--Private Gambling--A _Vaca_--The _Calvario_--Bonnets-- Dinner--Evening Ball--Mingling of Classes--Copper Tables--Dresses and Decorations--Indian Bankers, Male and Female--Decorum--Habit--Holders of Banks--Female Gambler--Robbery--Anecdote--Bet--_Casa de Moneda_--Leave San Angel--Celebration--Address--Cross and Diploma--Reply--Presentation of a Sword--Discourses and Addresses--Reflections

LETTER THE FORTY-SECOND

Italian Opera--Artists, Male and Female--Prima Donna--Lucia di Lammermoor --Some Disappointment--Second Representation--Improvement--Romeo and Giulietta--La Ricci--La Señora Cesari--The Mint--False Coining--Repetition of Lucia--Procession by Night--A Spanish Beauty--Discriminating Audience-- A little _too simple_--Gold Embroidery--Santiago--Pilgrims--Old Indian Custom--Soiree--Mexico by Moonlight--Mysterious Figure--Archbishop-- Viceroy

LETTER THE FORTY-THIRD

Revillagigedo--The False Merchant and the Lady--The Viceroy, the Unjust Spaniard, the Indian, and the Golden Ounces--Horrible Murder--Details-- Oath--Country Family--The Spot of Blood--The Mother Unknowingly Denounces her Son--Arrest of the _Three_--Confession--Execution--The Viceroy fulfils his Pledge--Paving of the Streets--Severity to the Monks--Solitary Damsel--Box on the Ear--Pension--Morning Concert--New Minister-"Street of the Sad Indian"--Traditions--A Farewell Audience--Inscription on a Tomb

LETTER THE FORTY-FOURTH

Agitation--Storm--Revolution--Manifesto--Resembling a Game of Chess-- Position of the Pieces--Appearance of the City--Firing--State of Parties-- Comparisons--"_Comicios_"--The People--Congress--Santa Anna--Amnesty Offered--Roaring of Cannon--Proclamation--Time to _Look at Home_--The Will of the Nation--Different Feelings--Judge's House Destroyed--The Mint in Requisition--Preparations--Cannonading--"_Los Enanos_"

LETTER THE FORTY-FIFTH

Leave Mexico--Travelling Equipage--San Xavier--Fine Hacienda-- Millionaires--Well-educated Ladies--Garden, etc.--Tlanapantla--Indian Hut --Mrs. Ward--Doña Margarita--The _Pronunciamiento_--False Step--Santa Anna in Puebla--Neutrality--General Paredes--President in Tlanapantla--Tired Troops--Their March--Their Return--Curate's House--Murder--General Paredes in the Lecheria--President in Tlanapantla--A Meeting--Return of the President and his Troops--General Paredes and his Men--Santa Anna in Tacubaya--A Junction--President in Mexico--_Allied Sovereigns_--Plan-- Articles--President declares for Federalism--Resigns--Results-- Hostilities--Capitulation--Triumphal Entry--_Te Deum_--New Ministry

LETTER THE FORTY-SIXTH

Santa Monica--Solidity--Old Paintings--Anachronism--Babies and Nurses from the Cuna--Society--Funds-Plan--Indian Nurses--Carmelite Convent--Midnight Warning--Old Villages and Churches--Indian Bath--San Mateo--The Lecheria-- Fertility--_Molino Viego_--Dulness--Religious Exercises--Return to Mexico --Mexican Hotel--New Generals--Disturbances--General Bustamante-- Inconvenience--Abuses in the Name of Liberty--Verses--Independence celebrated

LETTER THE FORTY-SEVENTH

Opera--Santa Anna and his Suite--His Appearance--_Belisario_--Solitary "_Viva_!"--Brilliant House--Military Dictatorship--_San_ _Juan de Dios_-- Hospital _de Jesús_--_Cuna_--Old Woman and Baby--Different Apartments-- Acordada--Junta--Female Prisoners--Chief Crime--_Travaux Forces_-- Children--Male Prisoners--_Forçats_--Soldiers Gambling--Chapel-- Confessional--Insane Hospital--Frenchmen--Different Kinds of Insanity-- Kitchen--Dinner--Insane Monk--"Black Chamber"--Soldiers--College--Santa Anna's Leg--Projects--All Saints--Señora P---a--Leave-takings

LETTER THE FORTY-EIGHTH

Leave Mexico--Diligence--Indian Padre--Brandy-drinking Female--Bad Roads-- Beautiful View--Escort--Good Breakfast--Crosses--Robber's Head--Select Party--Lerma--Valley of Toluca--Hacienda--Toluca--Count de B---- and Mr. W------The Commandant--Gay Supper--Colonel Y------Day at Toluca--Journey to _La Gabia_--Heat and Hunger--Pleasant Quarters--Princely Estate--El Pilar--A Zorillo--A Wolf--Long Journey--Tortillas--Count de B------State of Michoacán--Forest Scenery--_Trojes of Angangueo_--Comfort

LETTER THE FORTY-NINTH

Leave _Trojes_--Beautiful Territory--Tarrascan Indians--Taximaroa-- Distressed Condition--An Improvement--Cold Morning--Querendaro--Fine Breed of Horses--San Bartolo--Produce--Country Proprietors--_Colear_--Ride to Morelia--Wild Ducks--Sunset--Cathedral Bell--Cuincho--Curates Morelos, Matamoros, and Hidalgo--Warm Baths--Handsome Girls--Starving Travellers-- Lost Mules--Lancers--Night on a Heap of Straw--Mules Found--Tzintzontzan-- King Calsonsi--Pascuaro--Kind Reception--Bishop--Robbers--Curu--Night in a Barn--Mountain--Uruapa--Enchanting Scenery--Pleasant Family--Jorulla

LETTER THE FIFTIETH

Indian Dresses--Saints--Music--Union of Tropical and European Vegetation-- Old Customs--Falls of the Sararaqui--Silkworms--Indian Painting--Beautiful Heroine--Leave Uruapa--Tziracuaratiro--Talkative Indian--Alcalde's House-- Pascuaro--Old Church--Mosaic Work--The Lake--The Cave--Fried Fish--Rich Indians--Convent--Cuincho--Darkness--Morelia--Alameda--Cathedral--Silver --Waxworks--College--Wonderful Fleas

LETTER THE FIFTY-FIRST

San Bartolo--Mass--Markets--Rancheros--San Andrés--Insanity--Rancho--House of Don Carlos Heimburger--Wild Scenery--German Songs--Las Millas--Leave taking--Storm--Rainbow--El Pilar--La Gabia--Toluca--News--Copper _Pronunciamiento_--Return to Mexico--General Moran--Funeral Obsequies--New Theatre--_Cock's Mass_--Santa Clara--Santa Fe Prisoners--New Year

LETTER THE FIFTY-SECOND

Last Day in Mexico--Theatre--Santa Anna--French Minister's--Parting-- Diligence--Last Look of Mexico--Fatigue--Robbers--Escort--Second Impressions--Baths at Jalapa--Vera Cruz--Some Account of San Juan de Ulua --Siege of 1825--Siege of 1838--General Bustamante--Theatre--Of the North Winds

LETTER THE FIFTY-THIRD

Sail in the Tyrian--Norther off Tampico--The Bar--The River Panuco--The Pilot--The Shore--Alligator--"_Paso de Doña Cecilia_"--Tampico--Spanish Consul's House--Society--Navigation--Banks of the Panuco--Extraordinary Inoculation--The "_Glorieta_"--Leave Tampico--Furious Norther--Voyage-- Arrival at Havana

LETTER THE FIFTY-FOURTH

Havana--The Carnival--The Elssler--La Angosta--_Ingenio_ of Count V---a-- General Bustamante--Lord Morpeth--Leave Havana--Voyage in the Medway--Old Friends--Return to the United States