Chapter I: Preface

It is the desire of every American to see New York, the largest and most wonderful city in the Union. To very many the city and its attractions are familiar, and the number of these persons is increased by thousands of new comers every year. A still greater number, however, will know the Great City only by the stories that reach them through their friends and the newspapers. They may never gaze upon its beauties, never enjoy its attractions in person. For their benefit I have written these pages, and I have endeavored to present to them a faithful picture of the "Lights and Shadows" of the life of this City, and to describe its "Sights and Sensations" as they really exist.

This Great City, so wonderful in its beauty, so strange to eyes accustomed only to the smaller towns of the land, is in all respects the most attractive sight in America, and one of the most remarkable places in the world, ranking next to London and Paris in the extent and variety of its attractions. Its magnificence is remarkable, its squalor appalling. Nowhere else in the New World are seen such lavish displays of wealth, and such hideous depths of poverty. It is rich in historical associations and in treasures of art. It presents a wonderful series of combinations as well as contrasts of individual and national characteristics. It is richly worth studying by all classes, for it is totally different from any other city in the world. It is always fresh, always new. It is constantly changing, growing greater and more wonderful in its power and splendors, more worthy of admiration in its higher and nobler life, more generous in its charities, and more mysterious and appalling in its romance and its crimes. It is indeed a wonderful city. Coming fresh from plainer and more practical parts of the land, the visitor is plunged into the midst of so much beauty, magnificence, gayety, mystery, and a thousand other wonders, that he is fairly bewildered. It is hoped that the reader of these pages will be by their perusal better prepared to enjoy the attractions, and to shun the dangers of New York. It has been my effort to bring home to those who cannot see the city for themselves, its pleasures and its dangers, and to enable them to enjoy the former without either the fatigue or expense demanded of an active participant in them, and to appreciate the latter, without incurring the risks attending an exploration of the shadowy side of the Great City.

To those who intend visiting New York, whether they come as strangers, or as persons familiar with it, the writer has a word to say, which he trusts may be heeded. An honest effort has been made in this work to present the reader with a fair description of the dangers to which visitors and citizens are alike exposed. For the purpose of performing this task, the writer made visits, in company with the police officials of the city, to a number of the places described in this work, and he is satisfied that no respectable person can with safety visit them, unless provided with a similar protection. The curiosity of all persons concerning the darker side of city life can be fully satisfied by a perusal of the sketches presented in this volume. It is not safe for a stranger to undertake to explore these places for himself. No matter how clever he may consider himself, no respectable man is a match for the villains and sharpers of New York, and he voluntarily brings upon himself all the consequences that will follow his entrance into the haunts of the criminal and disreputable classes. The city is full of danger. The path of safety which is pointed out in these pages is the only one for either citizen or stranger--an absolute avoidance of the vicinity of sin.

Those who have seen the city will, I am sure, confirm the statements contained herein, and will acknowledge the truthfulness of the picture I have drawn, whatever they may think of the manner in which the work is executed.

J. D. MCC., JR.

NEW YORK,

_March_ 21_st_, 1872

CONTENTS.

I.
THE CITY OF NEW YORK, 33
I. HISTORICAL, 33
II. DESCRIPTIVE AND STATISTICAL, 49

II.
THE HARBOR OF NEW YORK, 59

III.
THE CITY GOVERNMENT, 64

IV.
THE RING, 75
I. THE HISTORY OF THE RING, 75
II. PERSONNEL OF THE RING, 100

V.
BROADWAY, 118
I. HISTORICAL, 118
II. DESCRIPTIVE, 123

VI.
SOCIETY, 135
I. ANALYTICAL, 135
II. FASHIONABLE EXTRAVAGANCE, 141
III. FASHIONABLE FOLLIES, 153
IV. FASHIONABLE CHILDREN, 155
V. A FASHIONABLE BELLE, 157
VI. FASHIONABLE ENTERTAINMENTS, 162
VII. MARRIAGE AND DEATH, 166

VII.
THE MUNICIPAL POLICE, 171

VIII.
THE BOWERY, 186

IX.
PUBLIC SQUARES, 194
I. THE BATTERY, 194
II. THE BOWLING GREEN, 196
III. THE PARK, 197
IV. OTHER PARKS, 200

X.
THE FIFTH AVENUE, 204

XI.
STREET TRAVEL, 211
I. THE STREET CARS, 211
II. THE STAGES, 216
III. STEAM RAILWAYS, 221

XII.
HORACE GREELEY, 225

XIII.
THE TOMBS, 232

XIV.
THE PRESS, 244
I. THE DAILY JOURNALS, 244
II. THE WEEKLY PRESS, 255

XV.
WALL STREET, 258
I. THE STREET, 258
II. THE STOCK EXCHANGE, 264
III. THE GOVERNMENT BOARD, 269
IV. THE GOLD EXCHANGE, 272
V. CURBSTONE BROKERS, 275
VI. THE BUSINESS OF THE STREET, 276
VII. STOCK GAMBLING, 279
VIII. THE WAYS OF THE STREET, 284
IX. BLACK FRIDAY, 290

XVI.
THE FERRIES, 299

XVII.
THE HOTELS, 304

XVIII.
IMPOSTORS, 316

XIX.
STREET MUSICIANS, 324

XX.
THE CENTRAL PARK, 332

XXI.
THE DETECTIVES, 351
I. THE REGULAR FORCE, 351
II. PRIVATE DETECTIVES, 364

XXII.
WILLIAM B. ASTOR, 372

XXIII.
FASHIONABLE SHOPPING, 375

XXIV.
BLEECKER STREET, 386

XXV.
CEMETERIES, 390
I. GREENWOOD, 390
II. CYPRUS HILLS, 391
III. WOODLAWN, 392
IV. CALVARY, AND THE EVERGREENS, 393

XXVI.
THE CLUBS, 394

XXVII.
THE FIVE POINTS, 398
I. LIFE IN THE SHADOW, 398
II. THE CELLARS, 405
III. THE MISSIONS, 412

XXVIII.
THE MILITARY, 422

XXIX.
NASSAU STREET, 426

XXX.
THE METROPOLITAN FIRE DEPARTMENT, 430

XXXI.
THE BUSINESS OF NEW YORK, 441

XXXII.
THE SABBATH IN NEW YORK, 445

XXXIII.
THE POST OFFICE, 448
I. INTERNAL ARRANGEMENTS, 448
II. THE NEW POST OFFICE, 456
III. THE LETTER CARRIERS, 460

XXXIV.
A. T. STEWART, 464

XXXV.
PLACES OF AMUSEMENT, 470
I. THE THEATRES, 470
II. MINOR AMUSEMENTS, 485

XXXVI.
THE MARKETS, 487

XXXVII.
THE CHURCHES, 491
I. THE SACRED EDIFICES, 491
II. THE CLERGY, 498

XXXVIII.
BOARDING-HOUSE LIFE, 502

XXXIX.
THE RESTAURANTS, 508

XL.
THE CHEAP LODGING HOUSES, 511

XLI.
THE LIBRARIES, 513

XLII.
PROFESSIONAL MEN, 519

XLIII.
PROFESSIONAL CRIMINALS, 522
I. THE THIEVES, 522
II. THE PICKPOCKETS, 531
III. THE FEMALE THIEVES, 533
IV. THE RIVER THIEVES, 534
V. THE FENCES, 539
VI. THE ROUGHS, 542

XLIV.
THE PAWNBROKERS, 546

XLV.
THE BEER GARDENS, 550

XLVI.
JAMES FISK, JR., 555

XLVII.
TRINITY CHURCH, 565

XLVIII.
THE HOLIDAYS, 572
I. NEW YEAR'S DAY, 572
II. CHRISTMAS, 577

XLIX.
THE SOCIAL EVIL, 579
I. THE LOST SISTERHOOD, 579
II. HOUSES OF ASSIGNATION, 587
III. THE STREET WALKERS, 589
IV. THE CONCERT SALOONS, 594
V. THE DANCE HOUSES, 597
VI. HARRY HILL'S, 600
VII. MASKED BALLS, 604
VIII. PERSONALS, 611
IX. THE MIDNIGHT MISSION, 614

L.
CHILD MURDER, 618

LI.
THE EAST RIVER ISLANDS AND THEIR INSTITUTIONS, 631
I. BLACKWELL'S ISLAND, 631
II. WARD'S ISLAND, 640
III. RANDALL'S ISLAND, 641

LII.
BENEVOLENT AND CHARITABLE INSTITUTIONS, 648

LIII.
HENRY WARD BEECHER, 655

LIV.
BLACK-MAILING, 658

LV.
FEMALE SHARPERS, 662
I. FORTUNE TELLERS AND CLAIRVOYANTS, 662
II. MATRIMONIAL BROKERS, 664

LVI.
EDUCATIONAL ESTABLISHMENTS, 666
I. THE FREE SCHOOLS, 666
II. THE COLLEGES, 671

LVII.
JEROME PARK, 675

LVIII.
COMMODORE VANDERBILT, 677

LIX.
THE BUMMERS, 680

LX.
TENEMENT HOUSE LIFE, 683

LXI.
CHATHAM STREET, 699

LXII.
JAMES GORDON BENNETT, 703

LXIII.
DRUNKENNESS, 706

LXIV.
WHAT IT COSTS TO LIVE IN NEW YORK, 710

LXV.
GAMBLING, 715
I. FARO BANKS, 715
II. LOTTERIES, 726
III. POLICY DEALING, 728

LXVI.
PETER COOPER, 731

LXVII.
THE "HEATHEN CHINEE," 734

LXVIII.
STREET CHILDREN, 738

LXIX.
SWINDLERS, 745

LXX.
ROBERT BONNER, 756

LXXI.
PUBLIC BUILDINGS, 759

LXXII.
PATENT DIVORCES, 768

LXXIII.
CROTON WATER WORKS, 774

LXXIV.
EXCURSIONS, 778

LXXV.
SAILORS IN NEW YORK, 782

LXXVI.
THE BALLET, 789

LXXVII.
THE POOR OF NEW YORK, 796
I. THE DESERVING POOR, 796
II. THE BEGGARS, 802

LXXVIII.
QUACK DOCTORS, 805

LXXIX.
YOUNG MEN'S CHRISTIAN ASSOCIATION, 811

LXXX.
CASTLE GARDEN, 816

LXXXI.
WORKING WOMEN, 822

LXXXII.
STREET VENDERS, 831

LXXXIII.
THE WHARVES, 835

LXXXIV.
THE MORGUE, 839

LXXXV.
THE CUSTOM HOUSE, 843

LXXXVI.
MISSING, 848

LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS.

General View of New York City, showing the Bridge connecting it with Brooklyn.................................... Frontispiece. Offices of the _Tribune_, _Times_, and _World_............................ 8 Grand Central Railway Depot......................................... 9 First Settlement of New York........................................ 37 New York in 1664.................................................... 45 Broadway, looking up from Exchange Place............................ 53 The City Hall Park in 1869.......................................... 56 The Harbor of New York, as seen from the Narrows.................... 60 A. Oakey Hall, Mayor of New York.................................... 81 William M. Tweed.................................................... 82 The New County Court House.......................................... 83 The Robbery of the Vouchers from the Comptroller's Office........... 94 Richard B. Connolly................................................ 104 Peter B. Sweeny.................................................... 105 Broadway, at the corner of Ann street.............................. 124 A. T. Stewart's Wholesale Store.................................... 125 New York Life Insurance Company's building, corner of Broadway and Leonard street.............................. 127 Broadway, as seen from the St. Nicholas Hotel...................... 129 Saturday Afternoon Concert at Central Park......................... 132 A Fashionable Promenade on Fifth avenue............................ 137 The German......................................................... 165 Female Prisoners in the Fourth Police Station...................... 176 A Winter Night Scene in a Police Station........................... 181 The Bowery......................................................... 189 The City Hall Park................................................. 198 The Washington Statue in Union Square.............................. 201 Fifth avenue, near Twenty-first street............................. 205 Junction of the Fifth avenue and Thirty-fourth street, showing the new residence of A. T. Stewart, Esq.......... 209 New Palace-car for City travel, in use on the Third avenue line.... 213 Tunnel under Broadway.............................................. 223 Horace Greeley......................................................231 The Tombs.......................................................... 233 The Bridge of Sighs................................................ 234 Interior of Male Prison............................................ 235 The Prison Chapel.................................................. 237 Court of Special Sessions.......................................... 240 "Black Maria"...................................................... 243 Printing House Square.............................................. 246 The Herald Office.................................................. 249 Wall street........................................................ 259 United States Sub-treasury......................................... 261 The Stock Exchange................................................. 265 The New York Stock Exchange Board in Session....................... 267 The Park Bank, Broadway............................................ 278 Scene in the Gold Room--Black Friday............................... 291 Broad street on Black Friday....................................... 296 The Astor House.................................................... 305 St. Nicholas Hotel................................................. 307 Fifth avenue Hotel................................................. 310 The Soldier Minstrel............................................... 323 View from the Upper Terrace........................................ 333 Foot-bridge in Central Park........................................ 335 The Marble Arch.................................................... 338 Vine-covered Walk, overlooking the Mall............................ 341 The Terrace, as seen from the Lake................................. 344 View on the Central Lake........................................... 346 A Female Shoplifter................................................ 376 A. T. Stewart's Retail Store....................................... 382 Lord and Taylor's Dry Goods Store.................................. 384 A Five Points Rum Shop............................................. 399 A Five Points Lodging Cellar....................................... 407 The Ladies' Five Points Mission.................................... 413 The Howard Mission (as it will appear when completed).............. 419 Nassau street...................................................... 427 Fire Alarm Signal-box.............................................. 435 A Fire in New York................................................. 438 The Old Post-office................................................ 449 The New Post-office................................................ 457 Booth's Theatre.................................................... 471 Grand Opera House.................................................. 474 Academy of Music................................................... 477 The Old Bowery Theatre............................................. 478 Washington Market.................................................. 488 The New St. Patrick's Cathedral.................................... 496 Union Square....................................................... 505 Lafayette Place.................................................... 514 Clinton Hall....................................................... 517 The occasional fate of New York Thieves............................ 525 The River Thieves.................................................. 537 A Fence Store in Chatham street.................................... 541 The Rough's Paradise............................................... 543 The Atlantic Garden................................................ 552 James Fisk, Jr..................................................... 557 Jay Gould.......................................................... 560 Trinity Church..................................................... 569 New Year's Calls................................................... 575 The result of following a Street Walker............................ 592 Noonday Prayer Meeting at Water street Home........................ 599 Harry Hill's Dance House........................................... 602 Scene in the Magdalen Asylum....................................... 616 Residence of the Keeper of the Almshouse........................... 632 Small-pox Hospital................................................. 633 Charity Hospital................................................... 634 New York Penitentiary.............................................. 635 Guard-boats........................................................ 636 Almshouse.......................................................... 637 The Workhouse...................................................... 639 House of Refuge: Randall's Island.................................. 642 Bloomingdale Asylum for the Insane................................. 649 St. Luke's Hospital................................................ 650 Institution for the Blind.......................................... 652 Henry Ward Beecher................................................. 657 A New York Free School............................................. 667 The Free College of New York....................................... 669 University of New York............................................. 672 Columbia College................................................... 673 The Cooper Institute............................................... 674 Cornelius Vanderbilt............................................... 679 A New York Tenement House.......................................... 684 An inside View of a Tenement House................................. 688 Chatham Square..................................................... 700 James Gordon Bennett............................................... 705 A Female Drinker................................................... 708 A First-class Gambling House....................................... 717 The Skin Game...................................................... 723 Peter Cooper....................................................... 733 Chinese Candy Dealer............................................... 736 The Newsboys....................................................... 739 Attack on a Swindler............................................... 746 A Stranger's Exit from a "Cheap John Shop"......................... 752 The Pocket-book Game............................................... 754 Robert Bonner...................................................... 758 The City Hall...................................................... 760 Tammany Hall....................................................... 763 National Academy of Design......................................... 764 Steinway & Son's Piano Factory..................................... 765 The High Bridge.................................................... 775 The Fifth avenue Reservoir......................................... 776 U. S. Navy Yard, Brooklyn.......................................... 779 West Point......................................................... 780 New York Seamen's Exchange Building................................ 786 The Ballet......................................................... 790 The Poor in Winter................................................. 797 The City Missionary................................................ 800 Young Men's Christian Association Hall............................. 812 The Library........................................................ 814 The Battery and Castle Garden...................................... 817 Emigrant Hospital.................................................. 819 The Sewing-girl's Home............................................. 823 Stewart's Home for Working Women................................... 829 Street Venders..................................................... 832 Shoe Latchets...................................................... 832 "Glass put in!".................................................... 832 Balloon Man........................................................ 832 Boat Stores........................................................ 836 The Morgue......................................................... 840 The Custom House................................................... 844 The Fate of Hundreds of Young Men.................................. 849

[Picture: OFFICES OF THE TRIBUNE, TIMES, AND WORLD.]

I. THE CITY OF NEW YORK