Chapter I: AM amused and yet made thoughtful by the fact that so many young

housekeepers write to me of their pleasure in cake-making and their desire to learn how to compound what are usually known as “fancy-dishes,” some sending excellent receipts for loaf-cake, cookies and doughnuts, while few express the least interest in soups, meats and vegetables. The drift of the dear creatures’ thoughts reminds me of a rhymed—“If I had!” which I read years ago, setting forth how a little boy would have if he could, a house built of pastry, floored with taffy, ceiled with sugar-plums, and roofed with frosted gingerbread. In engaging a cook one does not ask, first of all, “Can you get up handsome desserts?” but, “Do you understand bread-making and baking, and the management of meats, soups, and other branches of plain cookery?”

The same “plain cookery” is the pivot on which the family health and comfort rest and turn. If you would qualify yourselves to become thorough housewives, it is as essential that you should master the principles of this, as that a musician should be able to read the notes on the staff. Some people do play tolerably by ear, but they are never ranked as students, much less as professors of music. “Fancy” cookery is to the real thing what embroidery is to the art of the seamstress. She who has learned how to use her needle deftly upon “seam, gusset and band,” will find the acquisition of ornamental stitches an easy matter. Skill in Kensington and satin stitch is of little value in fitting one to do “fine,” which is also useful sewing.

I am sorry to add that my observation goes to prove that more American housekeepers can make delicate and rich cake than excellent soups.

Soup Stock.

Two pounds coarse lean beef, chopped almost as fine as
sausage-meat.

One pound of lean veal—also chopped.

Two pounds of bones (beef, veal, or mutton) cracked in
several places.

Half an onion chopped.

Two or three stalks of celery, when you can get it.

Five quarts of cold water.

Meat and bones should be raw, but if you have bones left from underdone beef or mutton, you may crack and add them. Put all the ingredients (no salt or pepper) in a large clean pot, cover it closely and set at one side of the range where it will not get really hot under two hours. This gives the water time to draw out the juices of the meat. Then remove to a warmer place, stir up well from the bottom, and cook slowly five hours longer.

It should never boil hard, but “bubble-bubble” softly and steadily all the while. Fast boiling toughens the fibres and keeps in the juice of the meat which should form the body of the soup. When the time is up, lift the pot from the fire, throw in a heaping tablespoonful of salt, and a teaspoonful of pepper, and pour out into your “stock-pot.” This should be a stout stone crock or jar, with a cover, and be used for nothing else.

See that it is free from grease, dust and all smell, scald out with hot water and soda, then with clean boiling water just before pouring in the soup, or the hot liquid may crack it.

Put on the cover and set in a cold place until next day.

Then take off every particle of the caked fat from the top. You can use this as dripping for frying. Soup that has globules of grease floating on the surface is unwholesome and slovenly.

Strain the skimmed liquid through a colander, squeezing the meat hard to extract every drop of nutriment. Throw away the tasteless fibres and bones when you have wrung them dry.

This process should give you about three quarts of strong “stock.”

Rinse your jar well and pour back the strained stock into it to be used as the foundation of several days’ soups. Season it highly and keep in a cold place—in warm weather on the ice.

I hope you will not fail to set up a “stock-pot.” Every family should have one. It makes the matter of really good soups simple and easy.

Clear Soup with Sago or Tapioca.

Soak half a cup of German sago or pearl tapioca four hours in a large cup of cold water. An hour before dinner put a quart of your soup-stock on the stove and bring quickly almost to a boil. When it is hot, stir in the raw white and the shell of an egg, and, stirring frequently to prevent the egg from catching on the bottom of the pot, boil fast ten minutes.

Take off and strain through a clean thick cloth, wrung out in hot water and laid like a lining in your colander. Do not squeeze the cloth, or you will muddy the soup.

Return the liquid, when strained, to the saucepan, which must be perfectly clean; stir in the soaked tapioca and a teaspoonful of minced parsley, and simmer half an hour on the side of the range.

If necessary, add a little more seasoning.

When you have made nice clear soup once, you may, if you like, color the second supply with a little “caramel-water.”

This is made by putting a tablespoonful of sugar in a tin cup and setting it over the fire until it breaks up into brown bubbles, then pouring a few tablespoonfuls of boiling water on it and stirring it until dissolved. A tablespoonful of this in a quart of clear soup will give a fine amber color and not injure the flavor. Send all soups in to table very hot.

Julienne Soup.

One quarter of a firm white cabbage, shred as for cold
slaw.

One small turnip, peeled and cut into thin dice.

One carrot, peeled and cut into strips like inch-long
straws.

One teaspoonful of onion shred fine.

Three raw tomatoes, peeled and cut into bits.

One tablespoonful of minced parsley, and, if you can
get it, three stalks of celery cut into thin slices.

Use a sharp knife for this work and bruise the vegetables as little as possible.

When all are prepared, put them in hot water enough to cover them, throw in a teaspoonful of salt and cook gently half an hour.

Clear a quart of soup-stock as directed in the last receipt, and color it with a teaspoonful of Halford sauce, or walnut catsup.

When the vegetables are tender, turn them into a colander to drain, taking care not to mash or break them. Throw away the water in which they were boiled, and add the vegetables to the clear hot soup.

Taste, to determine if it needs more pepper or salt, and simmer all together gently twenty minutes before turning into the tureen.

White Chicken Soup (Delicious).

A tough fowl can be converted into very delicious dishes by boiling it first for soup and mincing it, when cold, for croquettes.

In boiling it, allow a quart of cold water for each pound of chicken, and set it where it will heat very slowly.

If the fowl be quite old do not let it reach a boil under two hours, then boil _very_ gently four hours longer.

Throw in a tablespoonful of salt when you take it from the fire, turn chicken and liquor into a bowl and set in a cold place all night.

Next day skim off the fat, strain the broth from the chicken, shaking the colander to do this well, and put aside the meat for croquettes or a scallop.

Set three pints of the broth over the fire with a teaspoonful of chopped onion, season with salt and pepper, and let it boil half an hour. Line a colander with a thick cloth, and strain the liquid, squeezing the cloth to get the flavor of the onion.

Return the strained soup to the saucepan, with a tablespoonful of minced parsley, and bring to a boil. Meanwhile, scald in a farina kettle a cupful of milk, dropping into it a bit of soda the size of a pea.

Stir into this when hot, a tablespoonful of cornstarch wet up with cold milk. When it thickens scrape it out into a bowl in which you have two eggs whipped light. Beat all together well, and stir in, spoonful by spoonful, a cupful of the boiling soup.

Draw the soup pot to one side of the range, stir in the contents of the bowl, and let it stand—but not boil—three minutes before pouring into the tureen.

Chicken and Rice Soup

Is made as white chicken soup, but with the addition of four tablespoonfuls of rice, boiled soft, and added to the chicken liquor at the same time with the parsley. Then proceed as directed, with milk, eggs, etc.

Tomato Soup.

Add a quart of raw tomatoes, peeled and sliced, or a
can of stewed tomatoes, and half a small onion to a
quart of stock, and stew slowly one hour.

Strain and rub through a colander and set again over
the fire.

Stir in a tablespoonful of butter cut up and rubbed
into a tablespoonful of flour.

A tablespoonful of cornstarch wet up with cold water.

Season to taste with pepper and salt, boil once more
and pour out.

Bean Soup.

Soak one pint of dried beans all night in lukewarm water. In the morning add three quarts of cold water, half a pound of nice salt pork, cut into strips, half an onion chopped, and three stalks of celery, cut small. Set at one side of the fire until it is very hot, then where it will cook slowly, and let it boil four hours. Stir up often from the bottom, as bean-soup is apt to scorch.

An hour before dinner, set a colander over another pot and rub the bean porridge through the holes with a stout wooden spoon, leaving the skins in the colander.

Return the soup to the fire, stir in a tablespoonful of butter rubbed in a tablespoonful of flour, and simmer gently fifteen minutes longer.

Have ready in the tureen a double handful of strips or squares of stale bread, fried like doughnuts in dripping, and drained dry. Also, half a lemon, peeled and sliced very thin.

Pour the soup on these and serve.

A Soup Maigre (without Meat).

Twelve mealy potatoes, peeled and sliced.

One quart of tomatoes—canned or fresh.

One half of an onion.

Two stalks of celery.

One tablespoonful of minced parsley.

Four tablespoonfuls of butter, cut up and rolled in
flour.

One tablespoonful of cornstarch wet and dissolved in
cold water.

One lump of white sugar.

Three quarts of cold water will be needed.

Parboil the sliced potatoes fifteen minutes in enough hot water to cover them well. Drain this off and throw it away. Put potatoes, tomatoes, onion, celery and parsley on in three quarts of cold water, and cook gently two hours.

Then rub them all through a colander, return the soup to the pot, drop in the sugar, season to taste with pepper and salt, boil up once and take off the scum before adding the floured butter, and when this is dissolved, the cornstarch.

Stir two minutes over the fire, and your soup is ready for the table. Very good it will prove, too, if the directions be exactly followed.

When celery is out of season, you can use instead of it, a little essence of celery, or, what is better, celery salt.

10

MEATS.

ONE of the most comico-pathetico true stories I know is that of a boy, the youngest of a large family, who, having always sat at the second table, knew nothing experimentally of the choicer portions of chicken or turkey. Being invited out to dinner as the guest of a playmate, he was asked, first of all present, “what part of the turkey he preferred.”

“The _carker_” (carcass), “and a little of the _stuff_” (stuffing), “if you please,” replied the poor little fellow, with prompt politeness.

It was his usual ration, and in his ignorance, he craved nothing better.

The pupil in cookery who enjoys tossing up _entrées_, and devising dainty _rechauffés_, but cannot support the thought of handling raw chickens and big-boned joints of butcher’s meat, is hardly wiser than he.

It is a common fallacy to believe that this branch of the culinary art is uninteresting drudgery, fit only for the hands of the very plain hired cook.

Another mistake, almost as prevalent, lies in supposing that she can, of course, perform the duty properly. There is room for intelligent skill in so simple a process as roasting a piece of meat, nor is the task severe or repulsive. Practically, it is far more important to know how to do this well, than to be proficient in cake, jelly, and pudding making.

Roast Beef.

Have a steady, moderate fire in the stove-grate. Increase the heat when the meat is thoroughly warmed.

Lay the beef, skin side uppermost, in a clean baking-pan, and dash all over it two cups of _boiling_ water in which a teaspoonful of salt has been dissolved. This sears the surface slightly, and keeps in the juices.

Shut the oven door, and do not open again for twenty minutes. Then, with a ladle or iron spoon dip up the salted water and pour it over the top of the meat, wetting every part again and again. Eight or ten ladlefuls should be used in this “basting,” which should be repeated every fifteen minutes for the next hour. Allow twelve minutes to each pound of meat in roasting beef.

Do not swing the oven door wide while you baste, but slip your hand (protected by an old glove or a napkin) into the space left by the half-open door, and when you have wet the surface of the roast quickly and well, shut it up again to heat and steam.

A little care in this respect will add much to the flavor and tenderness of the beef.

Should one side of it, or the back, brown more rapidly than the rest, turn the pan in the oven, and should the water dry up to a few spoonfuls, pour in another cupful from the tea-kettle.

About twenty minutes before the time for the roasting is up, draw the pan to the oven-door, and sift flour over the meat from a flour dredger or a small sieve. Shut the door until the flour browns, then baste abundantly, and dredge again.

In five minutes, or when this dredging is brown, rub the top of the meat with a good teaspoonful of butter, dredge quickly and close the door.

If the fire is good, in a few minutes a nice brown froth will encrust the surface of the cooked meat. Lift the pan to the side table, take up the beef by slipping a strong cake-turner or broad knife under it, holding it firmly with a fork, and transfer to a heated platter.

Set in the plate-warmer, or over boiling water, while you make the gravy.

Gravy (brown).

Set the pan in which the meat was roasted, _on_ the range when the beef has been removed to a dish. Scrape toward the centre the browned flour from sides and bottom and dust in a little more from your dredger as you stir. If the water has boiled away until the bottom of the pan is exposed, add a little, _boiling hot_, directly from the teakettle and stir until the gravy is of the consistency of rich cream.

Pepper to taste and pour into a gravy boat.

While I give these directions, I may remark that few people of nice taste like _made_ thickened gravy with roast beef. Many prefer, instead, the red essence which follows the carver’s knife and settles in the dish. The carver should give each person helped his or her choice in this matter.

I am thus explicit with regard to roasting beef because the process is substantially the same with all meats. Dash scalding water over the piece put down for cooking in this way: heat rather slowly at first, increasing the heat as you go on; baste faithfully; keep the oven open as little as may be and dredge, then baste, alternately, for twenty minutes, or so, before dishing the meat.

Roast Mutton.

Cook exactly as you would beef: but if you wish a made gravy, pour it first from the baking-pan into a bowl and set in cold water five minutes, or until the fat has risen to the top.

Skim off all of this that you can remove without disturbing the dregs. It is “mutton-tallow”—very good for chapped hands, but not for human stomachs. Return the gravy to the fire, thicken, add boiling water, if needed, and stir until smooth.

Always send currant, or grape jelly, around with mutton and lamb.

Roast Lamb.

Cook two minutes less in the pound than you would mutton. Instead of gravy, you can send in with it, if you choose

Mint Sauce.

To two tablespoonfuls of chopped mint, add a tablespoonful of white sugar and nearly two thirds of a cup of vinegar. Let them stand together ten minutes in a cool place before sending to table.

Roast Veal

Must be cooked twice as long as beef or mutton, and very well basted, the flesh being fibrous and dry. To the made gravy add two teaspoonfuls of stewed and strained tomato, or one tablespoonful of tomato catsup, and cook one minute before pouring into the gravy-boat.

Roast Turkey, Chicken or Duck.

It would not be possible for me to write such directions as would enable you to prepare a fowl for cooking. Yet I advise you to learn how to draw and dress poultry. Watch the process closely, if you have opportunity, or else ask some experienced friend to instruct you.

For the present we will suppose that our fowl is ready for the roasting pan. Lay it in tenderly, breast uppermost, pour a bountiful cup of boiling water, slightly salted, over it, if it be a chicken or duck, two cupfuls, if a turkey, and roast, basting often, about twelve minutes for each pound. When the breastbone browns, turn the fowl on one side, and as this colors, on the other, that all may be done evenly. Dredge once with flour fifteen minutes before taking up the roast and when this browns, rub all over with a tablespoonful of butter. Shut up ten minutes longer and it is ready for dishing.

Chop the liver and soft parts of the gizzard—which have been roasted with the fowl—fine, and stir into the gravy while you are making it.

Fricasseed Chicken.

Cut up a full-grown fowl into joints, dividing the back and breast into two pieces each. Lay these in cold water, slightly salted, for half an hour. Wipe dry with a clean cloth. In the bottom of a pot scatter a handful of chopped fat salt pork, with half a teaspoonful of minced onion. On this lay the pieces of chicken. Sprinkle a double handful of pork on the top with another half teaspoonful of onion, pour in carefully, enough cold water to cover all, fit on a close top, and set the pot where it will heat slowly. It should not boil under one hour at least. Increase the heat, then, but keep at a _very_ gentle boil for another hour, or until the chicken is tender. The time needed for cooking will depend on the age of the fowl. Fast stewing will harden and toughen it.

When done, take out the chicken with a fork and arrange on a warm dish, covering and keeping it hot in the plate warmer or over boiling water. Add to the gravy left in the pot two tablespoonfuls of chopped parsley, a heaping tablespoonful of butter cut up in the same quantity of flour, half a teaspoonful of salt, and a quarter of a teaspoonful of pepper. Stir to a boil. Meanwhile, beat up an egg in a bowl, add a teaspoonful of cornstarch, and a small cupful of milk, and when these are mixed, a cupful of the boiling gravy. Beat hard and pour into the pot where is the rest of the gravy. Bring to a quick boil, take _at once_ from the fire and pour over the chicken. Cover and let it stand over hot water three minutes before sending to table.

Smothered Chicken.

The chicken must be split down the back as for broiling, washed well and wiped dry. Lay it, breast upward, in a baking pan; pour in two cups of boiling water, in which has been dissolved a heaping tablespoonful of butter, and cover with another pan turned upside down and fitting exactly the edges of the lower one. Cook slowly half an hour, lift the cover and baste plentifully with the butter water in the pan; cover again and leave for twenty minutes more. Baste again, and yet once more in another quarter of an hour. Try the chicken with a fork to see if it is done.

An hour and ten minutes should be enough for a young fowl. Baste the last time with a tablespoonful of butter; cover and leave in the oven ten minutes longer before transferring to a hot dish. It should be of a fine yellow brown all over, but crisped nowhere.

Thicken the gravy with a tablespoonful of browned flour, wet up in a little water, salt and pepper to taste, boil up once and pour a cupful over the chicken, the rest into a gravy boat.

There is no more delightful preparation of chicken than this.

Boiled Corn Beef.

Lay in clean cold water for five or six hours when you have washed off all the salt. Wipe and put it into a pot and cover deep in cold water. Boil _gently_ twenty-five minutes per pound. When done, take the pot from the fire and set in the sink with the meat in it, while you make the sauce.

Strain a large cupful of the liquor into a saucepan and set it over the fire. Wet a tablespoonful of flour up with cold water, and when the liquor boils, stir it in with a great spoonful of butter. Beat it smooth before adding the juice of a lemon. Serve in a gravy-dish. Take up the beef, letting all the liquor drain from it, and send in on a hot platter.

(Save the pot-liquor for bean soup.)

Boiled Mutton.

Sew up the leg of mutton in a stout piece of mosquito net or of “cheese cloth;” lay it in a pot and cover several inches deep with boiling water. Throw in a tablespoonful of salt, and cook twelve minutes to the pound. Take up the cloth with the meat in it and dip in _very_ cold water. Remove the bag and dish the meat.

Before taking up the mutton, make your sauce, using as a base a cupful of the liquor dipped from the pot. Proceed with this as you did with the drawn butter sauce for the corned beef, but instead of the lemon juice, add two tablespoonfuls of capers if you have them. If not, the same quantity of chopped green pickle.

11

VEGETABLES.

IN attempting to make out under the above heading, a list of receipts, I have laid down my pen several times in sheer discouragement. The number and variety of esculents supplied by the American market-gardener would need for a just mention of each, a treatise several times larger than our volume. I have, therefore, selected a few of the vegetables in general use on our tables, and given the simplest and most approved methods of preparing them.

As a preface I transcribe from “Common Sense in the Household” “RULES APPLICABLE TO THE COOKING OF ALL VEGETABLES.”

Have them as fresh as possible.

Pick over, wash well, and cut out all decayed parts.

Lay them when peeled in _cold_ water before cooking.

If you boil them put a little salt in the water.

Cook steadily after you put them on.

Be sure they are thoroughly done.

_Drain well._

Serve hot!

Potatoes (boiled).

Pare them thin with a sharp knife. The starch or meal lies, in greatest quantities, nearest to the skin. Lay in clean cold water for one hour, if the potatoes are newly gathered. Old potatoes should be left in the water for several hours. If very old, they will be the better for soaking all night. New potatoes require half an hour for boiling, and the skins are rubbed off with a coarse cloth before they are cooked. Those stored for winter use should be boiled forty-five minutes.

Wipe each dry before dropping them into a kettle of boiling water, in which has been mixed a heaping tablespoonful of salt.

Boil steadily until a fork will go easily into the largest.

Turn off the water by tipping the pot over on its side in the sink, holding the top on with a thick cloth wrapped about your hand, and leaving room at the lowest edge of the cover for the water to escape, but not for a potato to slip through.

Set the pot uncovered on the range; sprinkle a tablespoonful of salt over the potatoes, shaking the pot as you do this, and leave it where they will dry off, but not scorch, for five minutes.

Mashed Potatoes.

Boil as directed in last receipt, and when the potatoes have been dried off, remove the pot to the sink, or table, break and whip them into powder with a four-tined fork, or a split spoon. When fine, add a great spoonful of butter, whipped in thoroughly, salting to taste as you go on.

Have ready a cup of milk _almost_ boiling, and beat in until the potato is soft and smooth.

Heap in a deep dish for the table.

Onions (boiled).

Remove the outer layers until you reach the sleek, silvery, crisp skins. Cook in plenty of boiling, salted water, until tender. Forty minutes should be sufficient, unless the onions are very old and large. Turn off all the water; add a cupful from the tea-kettle with one of warm milk and stew gently ten minutes.

Heat, meanwhile, in a saucepan, half a cupful of milk with a large tablespoonful of butter.

Drain the onions in a hot _clean_ colander, turn them into a heated deep dish, salt and pepper lightly, and pour the boiling milk and butter over them.

Onions cooked thus are not nearly so rank of flavor as when boiled in but one water.

Tomatoes (stewed).

Put ripe tomatoes into a pan, pour boiling water directly from the kettle, upon them, and cover closely for five minutes. The skins will then come off easily.

When all are peeled, cut them up, throwing away the unripe parts and the cores, and put them into a clean saucepan with half a teaspoonful of salt.

Stew twenty minutes before adding a heaping tablespoonful of butter, one teaspoonful of white sugar (for a dozen large tomatoes) and a little pepper. Stew gently fifteen minutes, and serve.

Scalloped Tomatoes.

Scald, skin, and cut each crosswise, into two or three pieces. _Just_ melt a teaspoonful of butter in a pie-plate, or pudding-dish, and put into this a layer of tomatoes. Lay a bit of butter on each slice, sprinkle lightly with salt, pepper, and white sugar, and cover with fine dry cracker, or bread crumbs. Fill the dish with alternate layers of tomato crumbs, having a thick coating of crumbs on the top, and sticking tiny “dabs” of butter all over it.

Bake, covered, half an hour. Take off the tin pan, or whatever you have used to keep in the steam, and brown nicely before sending to table.

Beets.

Wash well, taking care not to scratch the skin, as they will “bleed” while in cooking if this is cut or broken.

Cook in boiling water an hour and a half if young, three, four or five hours as their age increases.

Drain, scrape off the skins, slice quickly with a sharp knife; put into a vegetable dish, and pour over them a half a cupful of vinegar, with two tablespoonfuls of butter, heated to boiling, and a little salt and pepper.

Let them stand three minutes covered in a warm place before serving.

Green Peas.

Shell and leave in very cold water fifteen minutes. Cook in plenty of boiling, salted water. They should be done in half an hour.

Shake gently in a hot colander to get rid of the water; turn into a heated deep dish, sprinkle with salt and pepper, and stir in fast and lightly _with a fork_, two tablespoonfuls of butter.

Eat while hot.

String Beans.

Do not cook these at all unless you are willing to take the trouble of “stringing” them.

With a small sharp knife cut off the stem and blossom-tips, then trim away the tough fibres from the sides carefully, and cut each bean into inch-lengths.

Lay in cold water for half an hour. Cook one hour in salted boiling water, or until the beans are tender.

Drain, butter and season as you would peas.

String beans half-trimmed and cut into slovenly, unequal lengths are a vulgar-looking, unpopular dish. Prepared as I have directed, they are comely, palatable and wholesome.

Squash.

Pare, quarter, take out the seeds, and lay in cold water for half an hour.

Boil in hot salted water thirty minutes for summer squash; twice as long if the “Hubbard” or other varieties of winter squash are used. Take up piece by piece, and squeeze gently in a clean cloth, put back into the empty dried pot, and mash quickly and smoothly with a wooden spoon.

Stir in a heaping tablespoonful of butter for one large squash, or two small ones.

Season with pepper and salt; heat and stir until smoking hot, then dish and serve.

Cauliflower.

Trim off leaves and cut the stalk short.

Lay in ice-cold water for half an hour.

Tie it up in a bit of white netting.

Put into a clean pot, cover _deep_ with salted boiling
water.

Boil steadily, not hard, one hour and ten minutes.

Before taking it from the fire, put a cupful of boiling water in a saucepan.

Wet a heaping teaspoonful of corn-starch with cold water, and stir into the boiling until it thickens. Then add two tablespoonfuls of butter, and when this is well stirred in, the strained juice of a lemon.

Remove the net from the cauliflower, lay in a deep dish, and pour over it the drawn butter made by the addition of the lemon juice into _sauce tartare_.

Egg Plant.

Slice it crosswise, and about an inch thick; lay in strong salt water for one hour with a plate on the topmost slice to keep it under the brine.

This will draw out the bitter taste.

Put a cupful of pounded crackers into a flat dish and season with salt and pepper.

Beat the yolks of two eggs in a shallow bowl. Wipe each slice of the egg plant _dry_, dip it in the egg, and roll it over and over in the crumbs. Have ready heated in a frying-pan, some sweet lard, and fry the vegetables in it to a fine brown.

As each slice is done, lay it in a hot colander set in the open oven, that every drop of grease may be dried off. Serve on a hot platter.

Spinach.

Wash very carefully, leaf by leaf, to get rid of sand and dust. Lay in very cold water until you are ready to cook it. Boil forty-five minutes; drain in a colander and chop _fine_ in a wooden tray. Beat then three great tablespoonfuls of butter (this for a peck of spinach), a teaspoonful of white sugar, and half as much salt, with a little pepper. Whip all to a soft green mass and return to the empty pot.

As you stir it over the fire add a cupful of rich milk—cream, if you have it—whip up hard and turn into a deep dish.

Cut two hard-boiled eggs into thin slices, and lay in order on the spinach when dished.

12

DESSERTS.

ENGLISH cooks would call this “A Chapter on Sweets.” “_Dessert_” with them is usually applied to fruits, nuts, etc. Webster defines the word thus:

“A service of pastry, fruit or sweetmeats at the close of an entertainment; the last course at the table after the meat.”

Without dwelling upon the fact that when fruit and coffee are served they follow pastry or puddings or sweetmeats, we take advantage of the elastic definition and assume that the dessert of the family dinner is a single preparation of “sweets.”

The too-universal PIE will not appear on our _menu_. I am tempted to wish its manufacture might soon be numbered among the lost arts.

Bayard Taylor once said that “If Rum had slain its thousands in America, Pork-fat (fried) and Pies had slain their ten thousands.”

The average pastry of our beloved land would drive a Patrick Henry to self-exile if he were obliged to eat it every day. Nor could one of a dozen inexperienced cooks manipulate puff-paste as it should be handled in order to be flaky and tender. Dexterity of motion and strength of wrist are needed for this operation, such as belong only to the trained cook.

The more wholesome and daintier jellies, custards and trifles, and plain puddings we have selected from the vast variety of sweet things known to our housewives, are adapted to the powers of novices in cookery, and not unworthy the attention of adepts.

Boiled Custard.

This is the base of so many nice “fancy dishes,” and is itself so excellent and popular that we may properly lay the knowledge how to prepare it properly as the foundation-stone of dessert making.

One quart of fresh, sweet milk.

Five eggs.

One cup of sugar.

One quarter teaspoonful of salt.

One teaspoonful of essence of vanilla, lemon or bitter
almond.

Heat the milk to a boil in a farina kettle, or in a tin pail set in a pot of boiling water.

In warm weather put a bit of soda no larger than a pea in the milk. While it is heating beat the eggs in a bowl. When the milk is scalding, add the salt and sugar, and pour the hot liquid upon the eggs, stirring all the while. Beat up well and return to the inner vessel, keeping the water in the outer at a hard boil. Stir two or three times in the first five minutes; afterward, almost constantly.

In a quarter of an hour it _ought_ to be done, but of this you can only judge by close observation and practice.

The color changes from deep to creamy yellow; the consistency to a soft richness that makes it drop slowly and heavily from the spoon, and the mixture _tastes_ like a custard instead of uncooked eggs, sugar and milk.

When you have done it right once, you recognize these signs ever afterward.

If underdone, the custard will be crude and watery; if overdone, it will clot or break.

Take it when quite right—just at the turn—directly from the fire, and pour into a bowl to cool, before flavoring with the essence.

With a good boiled custard as the beginning we can make scores of delightful desserts. First among these we may place

Cup Custard.

Fill small glasses nearly to the top with cold custard.

Whip the whites of three eggs stiff.

Beat in three teaspoonfuls of bright-colored
jelly-currant, if you have it.

Heap a tablespoon of this _méringue_ on the surface of
each glassful.

Set in a cold place until it goes to table.

Floating Island.

Fill a glass bowl almost to the top with cold boiled custard and cover with a _méringue_ made as in last receipt. Do not whip in the jelly so thoroughly as to color the frothed whites.

It is a prettier dish when the bright red specks just dot the snowy mass.

Frosted Custard.

Make a nice custard; let it get perfectly cold, and pile on it, instead of the whipped egg, a large cupful of grated cocoanut, sprinkling it on carefully, not to disturb the custard.

Eat with sponge cake.

Blanc-mange.

Like custard, this is the base—the central idea, or fact—of numberless elegant compounds, and is delightful in its simplest form.

One package of Cooper’s gelatine.

Three pints of fresh, sweet milk.

One even cupful of white sugar.

One half teaspoonful of salt.

One teaspoonful of vanilla or other essence.

Soda as large as a pea, put into the milk.

Soak the gelatine three hours in a cupful of cold water. Then heat the milk (salted) in a farina kettle.

When it is scalding, stir in without taking the vessel from the fire, the sugar and soaked gelatine. Stir three minutes after it is boiling hot, and strain through a coarse cloth into a bowl. Let it get almost cold before adding the flavoring. Wet a clean mould with cold water; pour in the blanc-mange and set on ice, or in a cold place until firm.

Dip a cloth in hot water, wring until it will not drip, wrap about the mould, turn bottom upward on a flat dish, and shake gently to dislodge the contents.

Eat with powdered sugar and cream.

Chocolate Custard.

Five minutes before taking the custard from the fire, add to it three heaping tablespoonful of grated Baker’s chocolate rubbed to a paste with a little cold milk. Stir until the mixture is of a rich coffee color.

Turn out, and when cold, flavor with vanilla and put into glasses.

Whip the whites of three eggs to a smooth _méringue_, beat in three tablespoonfuls of powdered sugar, and heap upon the brown mixture.

Chocolate Blanc-mange.

(Our French scholars will say that this should be termed “_Brun-mange_.”)

Mix with the soaked gelatine four heaping tablespoonfuls of Baker’s chocolate, grated, and stir into the scalding milk, and treat as above directed. In straining, squeeze the bag hard to extract all the coloring matter. Flavor with vanilla.

Coffee Blanc-mange.

Soak the gelatine in a cupful of strong, clear black coffee, instead of the cold water, and proceed as with plain blanc-mange, using no other flavoring than the coffee.

Tea Blanc-mange

Is made in the same way by substituting for the water very strong, mixed tea. Eat with powdered sugar and cream.

Pineapple Trifle.

One package of gelatine.

Two cups of white sugar.

One small pineapple, peeled and cut into bits.

One-half teaspoonful of nutmeg.

Juice and grated peel of a lemon.

Three cups of _boiling_ water.

Whites of four eggs.

Soak the gelatine four hours in a cup of cold water.

Put into a bowl with the sugar, nutmeg, lemon-juice,
and rind and minced pineapple.

Rub the fruit hard into the mixture with a wooden spoon, and let all stand together, covered, two hours.

Then pour upon it the boiling water and stir until the gelatine is dissolved.

Line a colander with a double thickness of clean flannel, and strain the mixture through it, squeezing and wringing the cloth hard, to get the full flavor of the fruit. Set on ice until cold, but not until it is hard.

It should be just “jellied” around the edges, when you begin to whip the whites of the eggs in a bowl set in ice water. When they are quite stiff, beat in a spoonful at a time the gelatine. Whip a minute after adding each supply to mix it in perfectly.

Half an hour’s work with the “Dover” will give you a white spongy mass, pleasing alike to eye and taste.

Wet a mould with cold water, put in the sponge and set on ice until you are ready to turn it out.

This is a delicious dessert. For pineapple substitute strawberries, raspberries, or peaches.

A Simple Susan.

Two cups of fine, dry bread crumbs.

Three cups of chopped apple.

One cup of sugar.

One teaspoonful of mace, and half as much allspice.

Two teaspoonfuls of butter.

One tablespoonful of salt.

Butter a pudding-dish and cover the bottom with crumbs. Lay on these a thick layer of minced apple, sprinkled lightly with salt and spices—more heavily with sugar. Stick bits of butter over all. Then more crumbs, going on in this order until all the ingredients are used up. The top layer should be crumbs. Cover closely, and bake half an hour. Remove the cover and set on the upper grating of the oven until nicely browned. Send to table in the dish in which it was baked.

Sauce for the Above.

Two cupfuls of powdered sugar.

Two tablespoonfuls of butter.

Half teaspoonful of mace or nutmeg.

Juice (strained) of a lemon.

Two tablespoonfuls of boiling water.

Melt the butter with the hot water and beat in, with egg whisk or “Dover,” the sugar, a little at a time, until the sauce is like a cream. Add lemon juice and nutmeg, mould into a mound on a glass dish, or a deep plate, and set in a cold place until it is firm. This is a good “hard sauce” for any hot pudding.

Cottage Pudding.

Two eggs.

One cup of milk.

One cup of sugar.

One tablespoonful of butter.

Three cups of prepared flour.

If you have not the prepared, use family flour with two
tablespoonfuls of baking powder, sifted _twice_ with
it.

One tablespoonful of salt.

Put the sugar in a bowl, warm the butter slightly, but do not melt it, and rub it with a wooden spoon into the sugar until they are thoroughly mixed together. Beat the eggs light in another bowl, stir in the sugar and butter, then the milk, the salt, and lastly the flour.

Butter a tin cake mould well, pour in the batter and bake about forty minutes in a steady oven.

Should it rise very fast, cover the top with white paper as soon as a crust is formed, to prevent scorching.

When you think it is done stick a clean, dry straw into the thickest part. If it comes up smooth and not sticky the loaf is ready to be taken up.

Loosen the edges from the mould with a knife, turn out on a plate, and send hot to table. Cut with a keen blade into slices, and eat with pudding sauce.

An easy receipt and one that seldom fails to give general satisfaction.

13

CAKE-MAKING.

NEVER undertake cake unless you are willing to give to the business the amount of time and labor needed to make it _well_. Materials tossed together “anyhow” may, once in a great while, come out right, but the manufacturer has no right to expect this, or to be mortified when the product is a failure.

Before breaking an egg, or putting butter and sugar together, collect all your ingredients. Sift the flour and arrange close to your hand, the bowls, egg-beater, cake-moulds, ready buttered, etc.

Begin by putting the measured sugar into a bowl, and working the butter into it with a wooden spoon. Warm the butter slightly in cold weather. Rub and stir until the mixture is as smooth and light, as cream. Indeed, this process is called “creaming.”

Now, beat the yolks of your eggs light and thick in another bowl; wash the egg-beater well, wipe dry and let it get cold before whipping the whites to a standing heap in a third vessel. Keep the eggs cool before and while you beat them. Add the yolks to the creamed butter and sugar, beating hard one minute; put in the milk when milk is used, the spices and flavoring; whip in the whites, and lastly, the sifted and prepared flour.

Beat _from the bottom_ of the mixing-bowl with a wooden spoon, bringing it up full and high with each stroke, and as soon as the ingredients are fairly and smoothly mixed, stop beating, or your cake will be tough.

Let your first attempt be with cup-cake baked in small tins. Learn to manage your oven well before risking pound or fruit-cake.

Should the dough or batter rise very fast lay white paper over the top, that this may not harden into a crust before the middle is done. To ascertain whether the cake is ready to leave the oven, thrust a clean straw into the thickest part. If it comes out clean, take out the tins and set them _gently_ on a table or shelf to cool before turning them upside down on a clean, dry cloth or dish.

A Good Cup-cake.

One cup of butter.

Two cups of sugar—powdered.

Four eggs.

One cup of sweet milk.

One teaspoonful of vanilla.

One half-teaspoonful of mace.

Three cups of prepared flour, or the same quantity of
family-flour with one even teaspoonful of soda and
two of cream-tartar, sifted twice with it.

Two teaspoonfuls of baking powder will serve the same end. Mix as directed in “Practical Preliminaries,” and bake in small tins.

Jelly-cake

Is made by mixing the above cup-cake, leaving out the flavoring, and baking it in “jelly-cake tins,” turning these out when almost cold by running a knife around the edges, and spreading all but that intended for the top with a thick coating of fruit-jelly. Sift white sugar over the upper one or frost it.

Cream-cake.

Mix a cup-cake without spice or other flavoring, bake in jelly-cake tins, and when cold spread between the layers this filling:

One egg.

One cup of milk.

One half cup of sugar.

Two rounded teaspoonfuls of corn-starch.

One teaspoonful of vanilla or other essence.

Scald the milk in a farina-kettle; wet the cornstarch with a little cold milk and stir into that over the fire until it thickens. Have the egg ready whipped light into a bowl; beat it in the sugar; pour the thick hot milk upon this, gradually, stirring fast, return to the kettle and boil (still stirring,) to a thick custard. Let it cool before seasoning.

Frost the top-cake, or sift powdered sugar over it.

Cocoanut-cake.

Mix and bake as for jelly-cake, flavoring with rose-water.

Whip the whites of three eggs to a stiff froth.

Add one cup of powdered sugar, and two thirds of a grated cocoanut.

When the cakes are cold, spread between the layers.

To the remaining third of the cocoanut add four tablespoonfuls of powdered sugar, and cover the top of the cake with it.

Apple-cake.

Mix and bake as for jelly-cake, flavoring the dough with essence of bitter almond.

Beat one egg light in a bowl, and into it a cup of sugar. Add to this the strained juice and grated rind of a lemon.

Peel and grate three fine pippins or other ripe, tart apples directly into this mixture, stirring each well in before adding another. When all are in, put into a farina-kettle and stir over the fire until the apple-custard is boiling hot and quite thick. Cool and spread between the cakes. A nice and simple cake. Eat the day it is baked.

Chocolate-cake.

Mix and bake as for jelly-cake, flavoring with vanilla. For filling, whip the whites of three eggs stiff; stir in one cup and a half of sugar and four tablespoonfuls of Baker’s Vanilla Chocolate, grated. Beat hard for two minutes and spread between the layers and on the top of the cake.

White Cup-cake.

One cup of butter.

Two cups of powdered sugar.

Three cups of prepared flour.

One cup of sweet milk.

Whites of five eggs.

One teaspoonful of essence of bitter almond.

Cream butter and sugar; add milk and beat hard before putting in the whites of the eggs. Stir in flavoring and, lightly and quickly, the prepared flour. Bake in small tins.

Frosting for Cake.

Whites of three eggs.

Three cups of powdered sugar.

Strained juice of a lemon.

Put the whites into a _cold_ bowl and add the sugar at once, stirring it in thoroughly. Then whip with your egg-beater until the mixture is stiff and white, adding lemon-juice as you go on. Spread thickly over the cake, and set in the sun, or in a warm room to dry.

White Lemon Cake.

Make “white cup-cake,” bake in jelly cake-tins and let it get cold. Prepare a frosting as above directed, but use the juice of two lemons and the grated peel of one. Spread this mixture between the cakes and on the top.

Sponge Cake.

Do not attempt this until you have had some practice in the management of ovens, and let your first trial be with what are sometimes termed “snow-balls,”—that is, small sponge cakes, frosted. Put six eggs into a scale and ascertain their weight _exactly_. Allow for the sponge cake the weight of the eggs in sugar, and half their weight in flour. Grate the yellow peel from a lemon and squeeze the juice upon it. Let it stand ten minutes, and strain through coarse muslin, pressing out every drop.

Beat the yolks of the eggs very light and then the sugar into them; the lemon-juice; the whites, which should have been whipped to a standing froth;—finally, stir in the sifted flour swiftly and lightly. Bake in a steady oven from twenty-five to thirty minutes, glancing at them now and then, to make sure they are not scorching, and covering with white paper as they harden on top.

This is an easy, and if implicitly obeyed, a sure receipt.

Nice Gingerbread.

Three eggs.

One cup of sugar.

One cup each of molasses, “loppered” or buttermilk, and
of butter.

One tablespoonful of ground ginger, a teaspoonful of
cinnamon, and half as much allspice.

Four and a half _full_ cups of sifted flour.

One teaspoonful of soda dissolved in a tablespoonful of
boiling water.

Put butter, molasses, sugar and spice in a bowl, set in a pan of hot water and stir with a wooden spoon until they are like brown cream. Take from the water and add the milk. Beat yolks and whites together until light in another bowl, and turn the brown mixture gradually in upon them, keeping the egg-beater going briskly.

When well-mixed, add the soda, at last, the flour. Beat _hard_ three minutes, and bake in well-buttered pans.

Sugar Cookies.

Two cups of sugar.

One cup of butter.

Three eggs, whites and yolks beaten together.

_About_ three cups of flour sifted with one teaspoonful
of baking powder.

One teaspoonful of nutmeg, and half this quantity of
cloves.

Cream butter and sugar, beat in the whipped eggs and spice; add a handful at a time the flour, working it in until the dough is stiff enough to roll out. Flour your hands well and sprinkle flour over a pastry-board. Make a ball of the dough, and lay it on the board. Rub your rolling-pin also with flour and roll out the dough into a sheet about a quarter of an inch thick.

Cut into round cakes; sift granulated sugar over each and bake quickly.

Ginger Snaps.

Two cups of molasses.

One cup of sugar.

One cup of butter.

Five cups of flour.

One heaping teaspoonful of ground ginger, and the same
quantity of allspice.

Stir molasses, sugar and butter together in a bowl set in hot water, until _very_ light. Mix in spices and flour, and roll out as directed in last receipt, but in a thinner sheet. Cut into small cakes and bake quickly.

All cakes in the composition of which molasses is used, are more apt to burn than others. Watch your ginger snaps well, but opening the oven as little as may be.

These spicy and toothsome cakes are better the second day than the first, and keep well for a week or more.

14

JELLIES, CREAMS AND OTHER FANCY DISHES FOR TEA AND LUNCHEON OR SUPPER-PARTIES.

THE pleasing custom in many families is to make the daughters responsible for “fancy cookery.” Mamma turns naturally, when company is expected, to her young allies for the manufacture of cake, jellies, blanc-mange, etc., and for the arrangement of fruit and flowers, and seldom cavils at the manner in which they do the work.

The difference in the appointment of feasts in houses where there are girls growing up and grown, and in those where there are none, is so marked that I need not call attention to it.

Lemon or Orange Jelly.

One package of gelatine soaked in two cups of cold
water.

Two and a half cups of sugar.

Juice of four lemons and grated peel of two (same of
oranges).

Three cups of boiling water.

A quarter-teaspoonful powdered cinnamon.

Soak the gelatine two hours; add lemon juice, grated peel, sugar and spice, and leave for one hour. Pour on the boiling water, stir until dissolved, and strain through double flannel. Do not shake or squeeze, but let the jelly filter clearly through it into a bowl or pitcher set beneath. Wet moulds in cold water and set aside to cool and harden.

Ribbon Jelly.

Take one third currant jelly, one third lemon jelly, and as much plain blanc-mange. (_See Desserts._)

When all are cold and begin to form, wet a mould, pour in about a fourth of the red jelly and set on the ice to harden; keep the rest in a warm room, or near the fire. So soon as the jelly is firm in the bottom of the mould, add carefully some of the white blanc-mange, and return the mould to the ice. When this will bear the weight of more jelly, add a little of the lemon, and when this forms, another line of white.

Proceed in this order, dividing the red from the yellow by white, until the jellies are used up. Leave the mould on ice until you are ready to turn the jelly out.

A pretty dish, and easily managed if one will have patience to wait after putting in each layer until it is firm enough not to be disturbed or muddied by the next supply.

Buttercup Jelly.

One half package of gelatine soaked in half a cup of
cold water for two hours.

Three eggs.

One pint of milk.

One heaping cup of sugar.

One teaspoonful of vanilla.

Bit of soda the size of a pea stirred into the milk.

Heat the milk to scalding in a farina-kettle and stir in the soaked gelatine until the latter is dissolved, and strain through a coarse cloth. Beat the yolks of the eggs light, add the sugar and pour the boiling mixture gradually upon it, stirring all the time.

Return to the farina-kettle and stir three minutes, or until it begins to thicken. Let it cool before you flavor it. Whip the white of one egg stiff, and when the yellow jelly coagulates around the edges, set the bowl containing the frothed white in cracked ice or in ice-water and beat the jelly into it, spoonful by spoonful, with the egg-whip, until it is all in and your sponge thick and smooth. Wet a mould and set it on the ice to form. Lay about the base when you dish it.

Whipped Cream.

I have been assured by those who have made the experiment, that excellent whipped cream can be produced, and very quickly, by the use of our incomparable Dover Egg-beater. I have never tried this, but my pupils may, if they have not a syllabub-churn.

Put a pint of rich, sweet cream in a pail or other wide-mouthed vessel with straight sides, and set in ice while you whip or churn it.

As the frothing cream rises to the top, remove it carefully with a spoon and lay it in a perfectly clean and cold colander, or on a hair sieve, set over a bowl. If any cream drips from it return to the vessel in which it is whipped to be beaten over again. When no more froth rises, whip a tablespoonful of powdered sugar into the white syllabub in the colander, and it is ready for use.

Swan’s Down Cream.

One pint of whipped cream.

Whites of three eggs beaten to a stiff froth.

One cup of powdered sugar.

One teaspoonful essence bitter almond.

Just before you are ready to send the dish to table, beat whipped cream, frothed whites, sugar and flavoring together in a bowl set deep in cracked ice. Heap in a glass dish and leave in the ice until it is to be eaten.

Send sponge cake around with it.

Jellied Oranges.

Cut a small round piece from the blossom end of each of six or eight oranges, and scoop out the pulp very carefully, so as not to widen the hole, or tear the inside of the fruit. Use your fingers and a small teaspoon for this purpose until the oranges are empty and clean.

Lay them then in very cold water while you prepare with the pulp and juice you have taken out, and the grated peel of another orange, half the quantity of orange-jelly called for by the receipt for lemon jelly. When it is quite cold, fill the orange-skins with it, and set in a cold place to harden.

In serving them, cut the oranges cross-wise with a _sharp_ knife and arrange in a glass dish, the open sides upward. A few orange, lemon, or japonica leaves to line the edges of the dish, will give a pretty effect.

Ambrosia.

Peel fine, sweet oranges, and cut into small pieces, extracting the seeds. Put a layer in a glass dish and sprinkle well with sugar. In this scatter a thick coating of grated cocoanut, strewing this also with powdered sugar. Over the cocoanut lay thin slices of bananas, peeled and cut crosswise. Fill the dish in this order, the top being covered with banana.

A nice dessert for Sundays and warm afternoons when one dreads the heat of the stove.

How to make Coffee and Tea.

If you wish to have really strong coffee, allow a cup of freshly-ground coffee to a quart of boiling water. Put the coffee in a bowl and wet with half a cup of cold water. Stir in the white and shell of a raw egg, and turn into a clean, newly-scalded coffee-boiler. Shut down the top and shake hard up and down half a dozen times before pouring in the boiling water. Set where it will boil hard, but not run over, for twenty minutes, draw to the side of the range and check the boil suddenly by pouring in a third of a cup of cold water. Let it stand three minutes to settle, and pour off gently into the pot which is to be set on the table.

Scald the milk to be drunk with coffee, unless you can serve really rich cream with it.

Tea.

FIRST RULE. The water should boil.

SECOND RULE. The water in which the tea is steeped, must be boiling.

THIRD RULE. The water used for filling the pot must be boiling.

I speak within bounds when I say that I could tell on the fingers of my two hands the tables at which I have drunk really good, hot, fresh tea. Sometimes it is made with boiling water, then allowed to simmer on the range or hob until the decoction is rank, reedy and bitter. Sometimes too little tea is put in, and the beverage, while hot enough, is but faintly colored and flavored.

Oftenest of all, the tea is made with unboiled water, or with water that did boil once, but is now flat and many degrees below the point of ebullition.

Scald the china, or silver, or tin teapot from which the beverage is to flow directly into the cups; put in an even teaspoonful of tea for each person who is to partake of it, pour in a half-cup of boiling water and cover the pot with a cozy or napkin for five minutes. Then, fill up with boiling _water from the kettle_ and take to the table. Fill the cups within three minutes or so and you have the fresh aroma of the delicious herb.

INDEX.

BREADS.

Bread Sponge 16
Breakfast Biscuits 23
Crumpets 30
English Muffins 28
First Loaf, The 11
Graham Bread 19
Graham Rolls 23
Graham Cakes 40
Griddle Cakes 37
Hominy Cakes 39
Quick Biscuits 35
Quick Muffins 31
Sally Lunn 33
Sour Milk Cakes 38
Tea Rolls 21

CAKE.

Apple Cake 136
Cup-cake 133
Cream-cake 134
Cocoanut-cake 135
Chocolate-cake 136
Gingerbread 139
Ginger Snaps 141
Jelly-cake 134
Sponge Cake 138
Sugar Cookies 140
White Cup-cake 137
White Lemon Cake 138
Frosting for Cake 137

DESSERTS.

Blanc-mange 123
Blanc-mange, Chocolate 124
Blanc-mange, Coffee 125
Blanc-mange, Tea 125
Cup Custard 121
Custard, boiled 119
Chocolate Custard 124
Custard, frosted 122
Cottage Pudding 129
Floating Island 122
Pineapple Trifle 125
Simple Susan 127

EGGS.

Boiled Eggs 42
Bacon and Eggs 48
Baked Eggs 49
Custard Eggs 44
Dropped Eggs with white Sauce 51
Eggs on Toast 45
Eggs on Savory Toast 49
Omelette 25
Poached, or Dropped Eggs 44
Scrambled or Stirred Eggs 46
Scalloped Eggs 50

JELLIES, CREAMS AND OTHER FANCY DISHES.

Ambrosia 149
Jelly, Buttercup 145
Jelly, Lemon 144
Jelly, Ribbon 148
Jellied Oranges 144
Cream, Whipped 147
Cream, Swan’s Down 148

MEATS.

Beefsteak 55
Beef Croquettes 73
Beef, Roast 95
Boiled Corned Beef 105
Breakfast Stew 66
Chicken Croquettes 79
Chicken, Turkey or Duck, Roast 101
Chicken, Fricasseed 102
Chicken Smothered 103
Fish Balls 64
Ham, Broiled 59
Ham Deviled, or Barbecued 78
Hash 71
Hash Cakes 72
Lamb, Roast 100
Liver, Larded 60
Mutton or Lamb Chops 58
Mutton, Boiled 105
Mutton, Deviled 77
Minced Mutton on Toast 75
Mutton, Roast 99
Mutton Stew 74
Sausage Cakes 63
Smothered Sausage 63
Veal Cutlets 61
Veal Roast 100
Gravy, Brown 98
Mint Sauce 100

SOUPS.

Soup Stock 83
Bean Soup 91
Chicken Soup 90
Clear Soup with Sago or Tapioca 85
Julienne Soup 87
Soup Maigre (without meat) 92
Tomato Soup 90
White Chicken Soup 88

TEA AND COFFEE, HOW TO MAKE.

Coffee 150
Tea 151

VEGETABLES.

Beets 112
Cauliflower 115
Egg Plant 116
Green Peas 113
Onions, boiled 110
Potatoes, boiled 108
Potatoes, mashed 109
Squash 114
String Beans 113
Spinach 117
Tomatoes, Stewed 111
Tomatoes, Scalloped 111