Chapter V: Part 5
although an asylum “for honest poverty and old age,” did not escape the rapacity which characterised the dissolution of religious houses. It stood in the suburb of Frankwell, near a place since called The Stew. Speed notices its site in his map (1610); but not a fragment of the building now remains.
THE DRAPERS’ ALMSHOUSES.
[Picture: Drapers’ Almshouses]
The generally received opinion has been that these almshouses were founded, in 1461, by Degory Watur, Draper, from the circumstance that he lived himself in the centre house, or “almshouse hall,” among the poor people, and whose practice (as a Manuscript Chronicle records) was to attend them “dailye to our Lady’s Chirch, and to kneel with them in a long pew in the quire made for them and himself.”
The ancient records, however, of the Drapers’ Company show that a building and endowment of almshouses by that company for poor people existed long previous to the foundation attributed to Degory Watur, who seems to have been only the founder in so far as their re-erection took place, under his management, during his wardenship or stewardship of the company, of which he was a member.
The old almshouses extended along the whole of the west side of St. Mary’s church-yard: and, being much dilapidated and very incommodious dwellings, they were taken down in 1825. The present building, completed in the above year, from a design by Mr. J. Carline, now consists of eighteen comfortable habitations, of two chambers each; the front is in the old English style of architecture, having in the centre a gateway within an embattled tower; in the centre of the latter are the armorial bearings of the Drapers’ Company, with the motto “Unto God only be honour and glory.”
This re-edification, including the purchase of the land, cost the Drapers’ Company upwards of £3000, from whose funds each of the poor people receive annually about six pounds.
ST. CHAD’S ALMSHOUSES
adjoin the cemetery of Old St. Chad’s, and were erected in 1409 by Bennett Tipton, a public brewer, who lived in the College, and died in 1424. The allowance to the eleven poor occupants, “decayed old men and women,” arises chiefly from a benefaction of £180 by David Ireland, alderman of the town, and Catharine his wife; which is now commuted to a rent charge of £8 on the Lythwood estate, the proprietor of which nominates the alms-folk. Previous to the Reformation the poor people received one penny a-week from the Mercers’ Company, since which time the whole annual payment of the Company has been only two shillings and two pence.
HOUSE OF INDUSTRY.
This spacious and well-built structure stands on an eminence rising from the Severn, which forms a beautiful object beneath. The site is highly salubrious, and the prospect delightfully variegated by many natural beauties. The majestic Wrekin, with an extensive tract of country, is seen to the right; while the front presents a very general view of the town, skirted by genteel residences partly obscured by the foliage of The Quarry trees, which, with the towers of the Castle, the lofty steeples of the churches and their glittering vanes, unite in producing a scene diversified and impressive, especially when the evening sun illumines the landscape, and gives to it that variety of light and shadow which poets have associated as only belonging to the scenes of enchantment and fairy land.
A fine terrace extends the whole length of the building, which was erected (in 1760) for the reception of orphans from the Foundling Hospital in London, at an expence of £12,000; but the funds of that institution not proving adequate to the plan of sending children to provincial hospitals, it was discontinued in 1774. It afterwards served as a place of confinement for Dutch prisoners taken in the American war; and in 1784 it was purchased under an act of parliament for incorporating the five parishes of the town and that of Meole Brace in the liberties, so far as concerned the maintenance of the poor, as a general House of Industry for their admission and employment, under the management of a board of directors.
Various circumstances, however, have concurred to render the establishment a complete failure, both as regards the principles on which it was founded, the economy to be effected, and the advantages eventually to result in favour of the united parishes, the select vestries of which now send but a small proportion of their poor, and those are generally infirm, who are maintained by a contractor, at a certain rate per head per week; but “averages” are still paid by the several parishes, to keep the extensive buildings in repair, for a salary to the chaplain, and other purposes of the institution, which continues under the ostensible government of directors.
The dining hall is 115 feet in length, parallel with which is a chapel of the same size, in which service is performed once every Sunday.
HUMANE SOCIETY.
A Humane Society existed in this town in the year 1786, but, having sunk from notice, was resuscitated in 1824, for the purpose of preventing those fatal accidents which have been of frequent occurrence during the bathing season, and often in the winter time, when the river in a frozen state affords the amusement of skaiting. The purpose of the society is to render prompt assistance in the use of the most approved means for restoring suspended animation, from whatever cause arising, and the rewarding of persons whose humane and intrepid exertions have been instrumental in saving life, or, although unsuccessful, such as to entitle their endeavours to the thanks of society.
To accomplish these objects, watchmen, prepared with every requisite apparatus, are stationed on the banks of the river, where accidents at any time may be expected to occur, and receiving houses are established, where every facility is afforded to employ remedies for the restoring of life in those cases which hold out the slightest hope of a recovery.
It may be mentioned that many instances have occurred by which a just estimate can be formed of the positive good resulting from the exertions of this Society, in rescuing persons from drowning.
THE PRISON CHARITIES
were commenced about the year 1800, for the distribution of rewards to promote the reformation and encourage the industry of criminals confined within the prison walls; to relieve the wants of unfortunate debtors; and to provide all those who are dismissed from prison with a small sum for immediate maintenance, so as to prevent the great temptation of committing crime for that purpose.
The annual subscription is limited to one guinea; and the institution has met with a laudable support, principally among the gentry of the county.
THE PAROCHIAL CHARITIES
of this town have at different times been largely endowed by the legacies of individuals who, in bidding the world adieu, were piously moved to leave portions of their substance to be expended in “bread to the poor,” clothing and apprenticing poor children, annual gifts of money and garments to decayed housekeepers, and the general improvement of all, by directing commemorative sermons to be preached on particular anniversaries. In St. Chad’s parish two hundred threepenny loaves are, on the average, distributed weekly throughout the year.
THE TOWN CHARITIES
were bequeathed for purposes in many respects similar to the foregoing, and were under the management of the old Corporation; but by the provisions of the Municipal Act the distribution of them is vested in trustees appointed by the Lord Chancellor.
Several other charitable societies exist in the town, whose object is to afford gifts of money, clothing, medical assistance, and religious instruction, to the necessitous sick poor; as well as for the distribution of the scriptures and the public formularies of the established church, and for the propagation of christianity both at home and abroad, the detail of which would exceed the prescribed limits of this publication.
CHARITY SCHOOLS.
“TO LEARNING’S SECOND SEATS WE NOW PROCEED.”
BOWDLER’s, OR THE BLUE SCHOOL,
Is situated in Beeches Lane, and is an oblong brick building, having in the centre a glazed cupola, surmounted by a flying dragon. It was founded in 1724, according to the will of Mr. Thomas Bowdler, alderman and draper, for the instruction, clothing, and apprenticing poor children of the parish of St. Julian.
Eighteen boys and 12 girls receive their education here, and attend service at St. Julian’s church on Sundays, to which church Mr. Bowdler was a great benefactor.—The number of scholars, from the increased value of the property belonging to the school, is about to be increased.
MILLINGTON’s SCHOOL & HOSPITAL.
This excellent institution and monument of private munificence stands on an eminence in the suburb of Frankwell, which commands an extensive prospect of the town, its churches, public buildings, and more distant views.
The building consists of a handsome pedimented front, with a stone portico, and two wings attached to the centre by a row of houses; the summit is crowned by a bell turret.
The chapel occupies the centre of the building, and contains a portrait of the founder. Adjoining are residences for the master and mistress of the school, and twelve houses for the resident hospitallers.
The foundation was endowed by Mr. James Millington, a draper, of Shrewsbury, and consists (according to his will) of a school-master and mistress with liberal salaries, and a chaplain, whose duty it is to read prayers every school day at nine o’clock in the morning. The scholars, &c. attend St. George’s church on Sundays.
Twelve poor men or women, chosen from the single parishioners living in Frankwell, or from the part of Saint Chad’s parish nearest to it, have each a comfortable dwelling consisting of two apartments, and a good garden, with two gowns, or coats, three tons of coal and ten guineas yearly, and two loaves of bread weekly. Gowns and coats, with £4 per annum and two loaves weekly, are given to ten poor single housekeepers resident in Frankwell, the four senior of which occupy two chambers each above the school rooms, and are removed according to seniority into the hospital when a vacancy occurs.
The school rooms are in the rear of the building, in which twenty-five boys and as many girls receive their education, with clothing twice a-year. At the age of fourteen the boys are apprenticed, and £10 given as a premium with each; previous to which they are well clothed, and on producing a certificate of good behaviour during apprenticeship, £5 is presented as a gratuity. The girls are allowed £3 for clothing on leaving the school, and, on behaving well, at the expiration of three years of their service receive £3 more.
A Sermon is annually preached in St. Chad’s church, on the 12th of August, according to the will of the founder, to commemorate his birth-day.
Two exhibitions of £40 a-year each are founded for students of St. Mary Magdalene College, Cambridge, eligible to those who have been originally scholars in the school and born in Frankwell, and educated at the Free Schools.
The charity is governed by fourteen trustees; and the revenues, by proper management, are considerable. Well may it be said, after reading this noble bequest—
“Behold what blessing wealth to life can lend.”
ALLATT’S SCHOOL
Is situated in Murivance, near St. Chad’s church, and was erected and endowed pursuant to the will of JOHN ALLATT, Gent. The building is an elegant free-stone structure, designed by Mr. Haycock in 1800, and cost £2000. It consists of two excellent houses for the master and mistress, which are connected with the schools by an arcade.
Thirty boys and thirty girls are educated and clothed, and at a proper age placed out as apprentices or servants.—Twenty-eight coats and 140 stuff gowns are annually given to poor men and women from the funds of the same charity.
The management of the school and funds is under the direction of fourteen trustees.
PUBLIC SUBSCRIPTION SCHOOL.
This school was begun by a subscription as early as the year 1708, for the instruction and clothing of poor children, and is conducted on the National system, in spacious school rooms near the east end of the English bridge. A sermon is preached annually in aid of its funds at two of the churches in the town. Nearly three hundred children receive daily education here, and on Sundays they attend the worship of the established church.
THE LANCASTERIAN SCHOOLS
were erected in 1812, opposite the County Gaol, for the plan of education suggested by the late Mr. Joseph Lancaster. They are supported by subscriptions and donations, with a small weekly contribution from the scholars.
ST. MARY’S AND ST. MICHAEL’S SCHOOLS
are situated in the suburb of Castle Foregate, and were erected in 1832, in the old English style of architecture, from a design by Mr. John Carline. Two hundred and fifty boys and girls receive their daily instruction, and are taken to St. Michael’s church twice on Sundays.
The school is supported by private benefactions; and the National system of education is adopted.
ST. CHAD’S LADIES’ SCHOOL
is held in the remains of Old St. Chad’s church, and the mode of tuition practised is that of the Madras system, which has been in operation in this school since 1820.
The number of girls educated is 154, under the care of visitors, whose aim, as expressed in the report of the school, is “to be instrumental in bringing up poor children in the fear of God, and in instilling into them such religious principles as may lead them to do their duty, for conscience sake, in that state of life to which it shall please God to call them.” The girls are clothed annually, and the total expence of the school is rather more than £100 a year, nearly one-half of which is contributed by the children in the shape of earnings and a penny fund, the remainder by subscriptions and donations.
INFANT SCHOOLS
produce a wide field for useful exertion, by forming the disposition and giving an early moral bias to the mind;—if, indeed, they do no more than take young children from the debasing influence under which their characters must otherwise be formed, and present an example of a better kind, they are calculated to effect a good purpose.
Schools having this object in view are established in the suburbs of FRANKWELL, CASTLE FOREGATE, and COLEHAM, and are supported by subscriptions under the direction of intelligent ladies.
SUNDAY SCHOOLS.
There are several Sunday Schools connected with the established church and the different congregations of dissenters, some of which have existed nearly from the earliest formation of such institutions.
A WALK WITHIN THE WALLS.
“GO ROUND ABOUT HER, AND TELL THE TOWERS THEREOF. MARK WELL HER
BULWARKS, SET UP HER HOUSES, THAT YE MAY TELL THEM THAT COME AFTER.”
HAVING noticed the principal Public Structures and Charitable Institutions of Shrewsbury, we turn next to those objects and ancient remains which do not admit of a regular classification.
In adapting the present work, therefore, to assist the Stranger, it is proposed to notice these and such other localities that may engage and deserve attention, in the course of A WALK WITHIN THE WALLS of our town, replete in subjects of antiquarian interest.
In the survey of these matters we shall occasionally lose sight of the refinement of modern times, and accommodate our thoughts and feelings to the days of yore, by adding such historical remarks as may serve the purpose of general as well as local information.
Our perambulation will commence from the spacious area in front of the County Hall, called the
MARKET SQUARE,
from the vegetable market being held there, and from whence may be seen several good specimens of the half-timbered houses of our forefathers, terminating with lofty gables.
Proceeding up HIGH STREET, anciently called “Bakers’ Row,” from the number of that occupation which located there: on the left of the turning towards Grope Lane is an old timbered house, now a grocer’s shop, but formerly used as
THE MERCERS’ HALL.
Several of the Incorporated Companies originally possessed Halls for holding their meetings and the celebration of their feasts: the former have of late years been held at the Town Hall, and the latter at some of the inns.
About the middle of the street, on the right, is the Unitarian Meeting House (p. 95), where the poet Coleridge preached in 1798; {149} and a few yards further is the “Sextry” passage, or (as it is called in our provincialism) a “shut.” This originally communicated with St. Chad’s church-yard by a covered passage, and derived its name from the sacristy of the church, which is supposed to have stood within it. An old building, now the “Golden Cross,” appears to have been a tavern as early as the year 1495, for in the archives of the corporation is the charge of 13s. 2d. “for wine spent on the king’s gentlemen in the Sextrie.” Its gloomy and confined situation proves how little our unpolished ancestors regarded accommodation or prospect when they were enjoying the pleasure of a jovial carouse.
The ancient stone building at the extremity of the street was in times past occupied as the
SHEARMEN’S HALL;
since which it has been used as a theatre, a methodist chapel, an assembly room, and a temporary assize court; and although now modernised as a tea warehouse, the present remains convey much of the character of the “city halls” of other days, associated with the good cheer, inspirating feasts, and the social merriment of com-brethren in the olden time.
[Picture: Shearmen’s Hall]
The period of its erection is not known; but before the front was altered it presented (according to a drawing in the possession of the writer) a bold pointed window in the style of the fifteenth century, the apex of the gable being finished with an elegant finial. On the south-west side a very curious octagonal chimney, crenelated at the top, still remains.
The company of Shearmen were incorporated at least as early as the reign of Edward the Fourth, and the extracts preserved from their records afford many pleasing particulars of ancient customs and hospitality. The setting up of a “green tree,” or May-pole, before their hall, “deck’d with garlands gay,” was, according to an old MS. an usage practised by the apprentices of this company on their feast-day (June 6th) previous to the year 1588. The noisy revelry connected therewith, and of
“Lads and lasses dancing round,”
seems to have excited the displeasure of the puritans, and the custom having been denounced by the “public preacher of the town,” {151} and forbidden by the bailiffs, the MS. further says, that “in 1591 certain young men for their disobedience were put into prison and indicted at the sessions, but on their submission they were acquit of their disobedience, and all further proceedings against them quashed, and it was determined that the usual tree might be put up as heretofore, so that it be done soberly and in good order, without contention.” The attempt to obstruct this ancient festivity caused an angry cavilling and interchange of written communications between the favourers of it and the bailiffs, so as to raise an opposition at the annual passing of the town accounts, for the expence incurred by the prosecution.
In the reign of Elizabeth, six hundred shearmen or cloth-workers were occupied (under the drapers) in dressing or raising the wool on one side of a coarse kind of cloth called Welsh webs, which were brought from Merionethshire and Montgomeryshire to a weekly market in this town.
This manner of raising the wool having been found to weaken the texture of the cloths, the avocation of the company became useless and was discontinued.
Leaving St. Julian’s Church (p. 59) on the left, we arrive at the WYLE COP,—cop is the Saxon word for top, or head of any thing, and this part is considered as the first portion of the town inhabited by the early British settlers, being situated near the royal dwelling of Brochwel (the site of Old St. Chad’s church). The Saxons, on their possession of the town, continued (without doubt) for a time to occupy the huts abandoned by the Britons. From hence the town extended itself northward in the direction of the churches. Proceeding down the Wyle Cop, we pass the LION HOTEL, four doors below is the house which formed the temporary residence of King Henry the Seventh, who, although he left the bailiffs to pay his soldiers, did not forget the favour conferred upon him by the burgesses. From this place is a pretty distant view of the Wrekin, Lord Hill’s Column, &c. At the foot of the Wyle, and turning to the right, we leave on the left the precinct of the GREY FRIARS, and pass along _Beeches Lane_, anciently _Bispestan_ and _Bushpestanes_, in which is the Blue School and the Roman Catholic Chapel, and arrive at
THE TOWN WALLS,
erected in the time of Henry the Third, to fortify the place against the inroads of the Welsh, and towards the completion of which the burgesses were materially assisted by the royal bounty. These walls, although now deprived of their battlements, form an excellent footpath, and afford a delightful view of the river and adjacent country. At the extremity of the Walls is the _Crescent_; and a little beyond stands the only remaining Tower of nearly twenty which formerly strengthened the ancient ramparts that enclosed our town.
It is square, and of three stories, embattled at the summit, and lighted by narrow square windows; from the style of building, it is probably as old as the reign of Henry the Fourth.
[Picture: The Old Tower]
Nearly adjoining the Tower is the Meeting-house of the Methodist New Connexion; and further on to the right is _Swan Hill_, formerly called _Murivance_, signifying before or within the walls. Passing Allatt’s School, a chaste freestone building, the turning to the right leads to _St. John’s Hill_, chiefly occupied by private individuals. Proceeding onwards, St. Chad’s church breaks upon the view, having a terrace on the south-west side which commands a fine prospect of the beautiful QUARRY WALK. Leaving the principal entrance to this delightful promenade, a broad thoroughfare leads to the handsome residences of _Claremont Buildings_. Continuing our route to the end of this street, a narrow way opens to St. Austin’s Friars and the river, on the margin of which once stood an out-work, flanked by two round towers, erected by the corporation at a remote period for the protection of the opposite ford. In later times one of these towers was called the “Round House,” and was demolished about forty years ago. Turning to the right, we observe the remnant of the house of
THE AUSTIN FRIARS,
of which little appears excepting the outer portion of a red stone building, now used as a tan-house. The Friars Eremites of St. Augustine are supposed to have located in this town about the middle of the thirteenth century, and erected their house on a site which had been used during the reign of John as a place of sepulture, interment in consecrated ground having for a period been forbidden by that king.
The following beautiful initial letter, affixed to a charter from Edward the Third, in 1345, assigns to the friars of this convent the out-work above alluded to, under certain conditions, with leave to have a postern gate for ingress and egress towards their house and church.
[Picture: Initial Letter of a Charter from Edw. III. to the Austin’s
Friars]
The king is depicted as sitting upon his throne, holding a globe in his left and a sceptre in his right hand, with two friars kneeling before him, and a third presenting a book or charter.
In the church of this Priory was a sanctuary, where a murderer could take refuge, and thereby escape his merited punishment; and several knights and men of rank, slain in the battle of Shrewsbury, were buried within its walls.
Previously to the dissolution, this house, like many others, fell suddenly into a state of bankruptcy, and the church was stripped of its furniture and vestments. On the site of the precinct which once pertained to this friary, and extended to the Quarry walk, several good houses have been erected.
On the opposite side of the river is the suburb of Frankwell, bordered with gardens; Millington’s Hospital crowning the eminence.
THE WELSH BRIDGE
next attracts attention. It is a bold and substantial structure, completed in 1795, from a design by Messrs. Tilley and Carline, of this town, at a cost of £8000. It consists of five semi-circular arches, surmounted with a balustrade, and is 266 feet in length and 30 in breadth.
It has been truly remarked, that while in cities of greater commercial importance no public works of great extent have been carried on without the exaction of tolls and contributions, the inhabitants of this town and county have, to their immortal honour, erected two noble bridges, by which the trade of the neighbouring districts has been released from the burthen of a vexatious tax, at a total expence of full £30,000, the whole of which was raised by voluntary contribution.
[Picture: The Welsh Bridge]
It is, however, matter of regret that too little attention has been shewn to encroachments on the river, by which much of the beauty of our bridges has been destroyed.
Adjoining the Welsh bridge are quays and spacious warehouses, from whence the barges and trows receive and discharge their cargoes. This end of the town formerly displayed a scene of commercial importance, as being the place where the London, Birmingham, and Manchester waggons arrived, and from whence goods were forwarded to all parts of the kingdom; but owing to the communication opened with the above-mentioned places by the Shrewsbury canal, which terminates in the Castle-foregate, most of the goods arrive there; this part, therefore, retains little more of its former bustle than is occasioned by the arrival of waggons for the dispatch of merchandize into North Wales, and what remains of the Severn trade.
From hence we proceed up the street called MARDOL; about half-way up, on the right, is HILL’S LANE, where is situated
ROWLEY’S MANSION,
said to be the first brick structure erected in Shrewsbury. It appears to have been built in 1618 by William Rowley, draper, and the first of his family who settled in this town, of which he was admitted a burgess in 1594, and made an alderman in 1633, under the charter of Charles the First. His grand-daughter and co-heiress married John Hill, Esq. who lived in great hospitality in this mansion, from whom the street received the appellation of _Hill’s Lane_, instead of Knuckin-street. He died in 1731, and the house was soon afterwards inhabited by the talented Dr. Adams, incumbent of St. Chad’s from 1731 to 1775.
The portal of this mansion is curious, and is accurately delineated by the wood cut. The great chamber, or withdrawing room, remains nearly in its original state, and is adorned with a basso relievo representation of the Creation, and other devices in stucco, &c. The oak wainscot from the other apartments has lately been removed. It is now used as a storehouse for grain, and presents a striking picture of—
“Some banquet Hall deserted,
Whose lights are fled, whose glory’s dead,
And all but it departed.”
[Picture: Portal of Rowley’s Mansion]
Retracing our steps to Mardol, at the top of the street is a pile of ancient houses, decorated on the exterior with plaster and stone ornaments, in the fantastical fashion of the time in which they were built. The turning below these leads to _Claremont Street_, formerly Doglane. On the left is a curious half-timbered house, built in 1613, with a projecting porch. A little lower is the Baptist Meeting House. Keeping to the left, is an old mansion, called
THE BELL STONE,
from a large stone which formerly stood outside the wall that surrounded the portion of the court not occupied by the buildings. The stone is now removed to the area in front of the house, which before the recent alteration was a good specimen of the smaller mansion of the reign of Queen Elizabeth. It was erected by Edward Owen, Esq. a bailiff of the town in 1582.
Leaving the new Theatre on the right, we enter the street called SHOPLATCH, a name supposed to be derived from SHUTT PLACE, the residence of an ancient Shrewsbury family of the name of Shutt, the remains of which are still to be traced in the massive walls of a stone edifice long disused, however, for domestic purposes, and arrive at Mardol Head, formerly called THE STALLS. At the corner leading to High-street is
IRELAND’S MANSION,
once the town residence of the ancient family of Ireland, long seated at Albrighton. It is a spacious half-timbered building, four stories high, finished with gables, on the beams of which are the following armorial bearings—Gules, three fleurs de lis, three, two, and one, Argent. The front consists of four ranges of bay windows, the original entrance having been in the centre under a Tudor arch. It is now divided into three excellent dwellings.
Passing up PRIDE HILL, formerly called Corvisors’ Row, we reach the High Pavement, where, opposite the present Butter and Poultry Market, once stood
THE HIGH CROSS,
which was no doubt similar in design to the elegant structures at Chichester and other places. It appears to have escaped the iconoclastic zeal of the puritans; for we learn that the old stone cross was not taken down until the year 1705. All general proclamations, as in former times, are still made upon this spot, whilst the reminiscences connected with it afford a melancholy picture of feudal severity. Here David, the last of the British Princes, underwent his cruel sentence, for defending by force of arms the liberties of his native country; and here the Earl of Worcester and other distinguished noblemen, after the battle of Shrewsbury, atoned for their rebellion by the loss of their heads.
Continuing our course, we enter CASTLE STREET, which is terminated in a picturesque manner by Laura’s tower on the Castle mount, and the umbrageous foliage with which it is surrounded. At the extremity of this spacious street stands
ST. NICHOLAS’S CHAPEL,
the only one existing of eight similar structures. Its present appearance proves it to be of Norman foundation, and built probably by Earl Roger de Montgomery for the accommodation of such of his retainers as resided in the _outer court_ of the castle within which it once stood. It was subsequently appropriated for the accommodation of the President and Council of the Marches of Wales. The west end displays a pointed window divided by a mullion, and in the interior is a massive semi-circular arch, which separated the nave from a chancel now destroyed. In lowering the floor in 1825, several human skulls and bones were discovered. The building is 50 feet long, by 19 wide, and is used at present as a coach-house and stable.
[Picture: Gateway of Council House]
To the right of this edifice is a handsome timber gateway, erected in 1620, which leads to
THE COUNCIL HOUSE,
or LORD’S PLACE, originally occupied as the residence of the Court of the Marches of Wales; the Lords President and Council of which, in assembling,
“With temper’d awe to guide
An old and haughty nation proud in arms,”
were frequently received here “righte royallie” by the corporation and trading companies; the latter, no doubt, considering that the great number of persons which this Court attracted to the town in its judicial capacity, independent of the attendant pomp and feasting, was of no small benefit to them in their respective crafts and occupations, by multiplying the consumption of the necessaries of life, and imparting to Shrewsbury somewhat of the importance of a second capital.
In the early part of the rebellion, the Corporation sent an invitation to Charles the First, stating that he should “have free access into the town, and be entertained in the best manner these troublesome times afford.” The unfortunate monarch accepted the loyal offer of his Salopian subjects, and arrived here Sept. 20th, 1642, attended by his two sons (the Prince of Wales and the Duke of York) and his nephew Prince Rupert, where he resided for the space of six weeks. King James the Second also kept his court here in 1687.
In 1583 the Corporation granted to Richard Barker, Esq. town-clerk of Shrewsbury, their interest in the council house and adjoining chapel, reserving the use of it for the annual residence of her Majesty’s Council. From him it passed to Thomas Owen, Esq. also town-clerk, in whose family it remained until it was purchased by Richard Lyster, Esq. to whose descendant, Henry Lyster, of Rowton Castle, Esq. it now belongs. {162}
The building stands on an eminence overhanging the river in the vicinity of the castle, in what is supposed to have been the outer ballium of that fortress. Its erection took place about the time of Henry the Seventh, and it was soon afterwards considerably enlarged in all probability with some of the materials from the castle and the adjoining convent of Black Friars. On the extinction of the Court of the Marches in 1689, these extensive buildings became ruinous, and their remains have been (during the present century) converted into three good houses, which command delightful prospects. The hall and great chamber above form a portion of the residence of Dr. Du Gard, who has displayed a commendable taste in preserving as far as possible the character of this part of the building.
Returning along Castle Street, on the right is the Raven Hotel, where Lieut. Geo. Farquhar (in 1704 or 1705) wrote his comedy of “The Recruiting Officer,” the scene of which is laid in Shrewsbury; and while it sufficiently demonstrates he was well acquainted with that gay scene of life which forms the subject of his play, it is equally certain he had “living originals in his eye.” The epistle dedicatory is “To all friends round the Wrekin,” and states he was a perfect stranger to every thing in Salop but its character of loyalty, the number of its inhabitants, and their generous and hospitable reception of strangers,—an eulogium, it is devoutly to be wished, may be retained by Salopians in every generation.
Taking the direction of the street opposite the Raven, a pleasing view of ancient and modern architecture presents itself, in St. Mary’s church and the Infirmary. On the south-west side of the church-yard is
THE DRAPERS’ HALL,
[Picture: Drapers’ Hall, Interior View]
a half-timbered building, erected probably about the time of Elizabeth. The interior is sufficiently described by the accompanying engraving, presented by the liberality of the Drapers’ Company. The apartment is 28 feet by 20, but was originally of larger dimensions. It is wainscotted with fine old oak, and the floor was once rich in emblazoned tiles. At the north end is the upper place, or “dais,” where the members “feasted full and high;” and on the opposite side stands a fine old chest, with richly carved ornaments; above which is a painting said to represent the first steward of the company, Degory Watur, and his wife; this originally stood on the front of the hall house occupied by Degory in the almshouses.
The east side is decorated with a portrait of Edward the Fourth, denoting round the circumference his titles and decease in 1483. Beneath are the following lines:—
This Yeare fourth Edward York’s farre fam’d renowne
Circled his temples with great Albion’s crowne;
When over reading the memoriale
Of Salop’s Draper’s Ancient Hospitale,
Founded in honour of the sacred Deity,
He own’d and stiled them then, the blest Society;
And with his Parliament’s sage approbation
Deigned them his Charter for a Corporation,
Which to confirme Himself was pleas’d to be
The Royal Founder of their Companie,
Granting immunities of large extent,
Which stand his bounties gratefull monument.
Edwardo 4º regi Anglorum
Gloriosissimo monumentum
Hoc posuit Pannariorum
Salopiensium grata Societas.
Returning from this hall, which is the only one appropriated to its original purpose, to the left is DOGPOLE (from Doke or Duck, to decline, and Poll, the head or summit); the street having an abrupt descent towards the river, to which there was formerly a communication.
To the right is St. Mary’s Street and the Almshouses. This street was very narrow until the year 1824, when several old buildings were taken down. Pursuing our course along CHURCH STREET, we pass the site and remnant of a half-timbered house, distinguished by gables, which formed a portion of
JONES’S MANSION,
in which the Duke of York resided when he accompanied his royal father to this town in 1642. It was also the abode of “Prince Rupert, when he joined his uncle after the brilliant action of Worcester.” This house was built by Thos. Jones, Esq. whose burial is noticed in the account of the adjoining church of St. Alkmond. Leaving that sacred edifice to the left, and turning a few yards to the right, we arrive at the DOUBLE BUTCHER ROW, a street chiefly occupied by butcher’s shambles, and where is an
ANCIENT TIMBER HOUSE,
considered to be one of the oldest and largest of this kind of buildings of which our town displays so many specimens.
The projecting stories are sustained by elegant brackets, and the angle uprights enriched with small pointed arches, carved with trefoil and other decorations. Along the front basement is a cloister of wooden arches obtusely pointed.—This building, 60 feet in length, is now divided into smaller habitations. History is silent as to the time, or by whom this edifice was erected, nor have we any decided information of its primary occupancy.
From the appearance of the cloister, it has been conjectured that it was a religious house, inhabited by the chauntry priests of the fraternity of the Holy Cross in St. Alkmund’s church. But from its extent it is more likely to have been the town mansion of the Abbot of Lilleshull, who had a residence in this part of the parish, and to which monastery the patronage of the church belonged.
[Picture: Ancient Timber House]
Continuing our route to the left of this house, we pass steps leading to the churchyard, and the foundations of a stone building (which once pertained to an _Oriel_ and the ancient college of St. Alkmond), into Fish-street, occupied by shambles, and on market-days by the country butchers. Crossing the top of High-street, we enter Milk-street, which leads to Old St. Chad’s (page 28), and the street called BELMONT, in which is situated
THE JUDGES’ HOUSE,
purchased by the County of Salop in 1821, under an act for providing suitable accommodation for the reception of his Majesty’s judges of assize. At the south-west end of the opposite thoroughfare across the church-yard is the remains of a red stone wall which formed part of
THE COLLEGE OF ST. CHAD,
originally a large ancient building inclosing a quadrangular court, separated from the street by a lofty wall and gateway, In 1549 Edward the Sixth granted the college to Hugh Edwards, Esq. the individual who (in 1551) exerted himself in obtaining the foundation of our grammar school. It continued in his family until 1752, when Lord and Lady Malpas disposed of the buildings, which were soon afterwards converted into three excellent houses, but so effectually modernized with brick as to display none of the appearance of a “college,” although the name is still retained.
Westward is College Hill. Half-way down this street, a modern Gothic front denotes
VAUGHAN’S PLACE,
which, before its alteration and brick casing in 1795, was considered a most curious specimen of the unembattled town mansion, erected (it is conjectured) about the middle of the fourteenth century by Sir Hamo Vaughan, whose daughter Eleanor married Reginald de Mutton. By this alliance the house came into the possession of the Myttons of Halston, several of whom represented this town in parliament; but little of its original state now appears. The hall is approached from a passage near the Corn-market by a flight of steps, and displays a deeply-recessed pointed arch; a similar one is seen from the College-hill entrance. One portion of the building forms the WATCH ROOM and POLICE STATION of the town, and some of the spacious vaults beneath are used as a temporary receptacle for midnight disorderlies.
Nearly adjoining, in the street leading to the Corn-market, is the TALBOT HOTEL, where the Duchess of Kent and the Princess Victoria alighted on their visit to this town in 1832, on which occasion the mayor and corporation waited upon them with a congratulatory address.
LITERARY AND SCIENTIFIC INSTITUTIONS.
SHROPSHIRE AND NORTH WALES NATURAL HISTORY AND ANTIQUARIAN SOCIETY.
At a meeting held at Shrewsbury on the 26th of June, 1835, it was resolved to establish a Natural History Society for the county of Salop and North Wales, and to found a central museum and scientific library.
In order to secure the perpetuity of the institution, and to guard against the possible dispersion of the museum at any future period, the property of the society is vested in the lords lieutenant of the county of Salop, and of the several counties of North Wales, as trustees, for the permanent use and benefit of the district at large.
The museum is principally designed to illustrate the Natural History of the district, in its various branches of geology, mineralogy, zoology, and botany, by the gradual formation of complete and systematic arrangements of its productions, in each of these departments. It is also open to other objects of scientific interest, and in particular is a suitable repository for such remains of antiquity as are found within the district, or illustrate its general history. But, in addition to these more local objects, the museum will, it is anticipated, through the liberality of the friends of science in various quarters, be enriched with many specimens from distant places.
The library consists of Books illustrative of Natural History and Antiquities, and such works of reference as the funds of the society may admit of being purchased, for the illustration of the objects in the museum. The library, as well as the museum, is open to donations from the members and friends of the institution.
The society’s affairs are under the management of a council, consisting of a president and other officers, elected annually.
A house situated in Dogpole is at present the temporary repository for the collections of the Museum, &c.
THE SUBSCRIPTION LIBRARY
Is on St. John’s Hill, and contains an excellent collection of books in the various departments of literature and science. Its affairs are confided to a committee. Proprietary members pay two guineas admission, and an annual subscription of one guinea and a half; and strangers, on the introduction of a subscriber, have the privilege of consulting any of the books during library hours.
THE NEW CHORAL SOCIETY
Has for its design the cultivation of the delightful science of sacred music, and was revived in 1834. It is under the management of a secretary and committee, and is supported by a respectable number of honorary members.
THE HORTICULTURAL SOCIETY
was engrafted (in the year 1834) on a florists’ society planted in this town in 1823. Its object is to promote the culture of the auricula, polyanthus, pink, ranunculus, carnation, picotee, dahlia, gooseberry, &c.
MECHANICS’ INSTITUTION.
This institution commenced in 1825, and in the year 1833 a building was erected for their meetings in Howard-street, Castle-foregate. The expences of the establishment are defrayed by subscriptions and donations.
NEWSPAPERS.
Two weekly newspapers are published here: viz. _Wednesday_, THE SALOPIAN JOURNAL, by Mr. John Eddowes, Corn-market. _Friday_, THE SHREWSBURY CHRONICLE, by Mr. John Watton, St. John’s-hill.
WALK WITHOUT THE WALLS.
“Scenes must be beautiful which daily view’d
Please daily, and whose novelty survives
Long knowledge and the scrutiny of years.
Praise justly due to those I now describe.”
SHREWSBURY QUARRY.
On the south-western side of the town is one of the most celebrated promenades in the kingdom, called The Quarry.
It is formed in a tract of verdant meadow ground of twenty-three acres, gradually sloping to the river Severn, along the banks of which are planted a graceful avenue of lime trees, extending 540 yards in length, whose lofty arching branches entwine themselves so as to resemble the long aisle of some religious fane.
Three other walks, planted in a similar manner, serve as approaches from the town to this the principal promenade, which being enlivened with many pleasing views, renders it in point of situation and beauty unrivalled.
Here the inhabitant may inhale the refreshing breeze wafted from the rippling river,—the invalid find a cool and sequestered retreat free from the noise of a bustling town,—while the mind alive to the charms of nature may enjoy its philosophic contemplations in the ever-changing beauties of the seasons.
A cluster of horse-chesnut and other trees growing in a dingle, and which in autumn present a beautifully variegated mass of foliage, diversify what otherwise might be considered a formal arrangement of these walks, which were planted during the mayoralty of Henry Jenks, Esq. in 1719, and derive their name from a red sandstone which was formerly procured from this dingle.
On the opposite side of the meandering river is a verdant eminence fringed with luxuriant plantations.
At the north-western end of the Quarry, near Claremont, is a sloping bank, which originally formed an amphitheatre, called the “Dry Dingle,” where religious mysteries (or miracle plays) were celebrated. Prince Arthur, in 1494, attended one of these exhibitions, which were performed on this spot, even after the Reformation, by the head-schoolmaster, Mr. Ashton, and his pupils.
Crossing the ferry, at the extremity of the walk leading from the remains of this amphitheatre, and pursuing the footpath in the field to the left of the Boat-house, we reach an eminence from whence a prospect opens to the view combining water, hill, plain, and wood in charming variety. Continuing from hence to the right of the House of Industry, we arrive at
KINGSLAND,
or, as written in an early Norman grant, _Chingsland_. This is an extensive piece of land, belonging to the ancient burgesses of Shrewsbury, thirty of whom in rotation annually receive four shillings and sixpence from its produce, in lieu of a “turn for their kine.” On this place the festival of Shrewsbury Show (described page 109) is held, and it commands a prospect which stretches to a considerable distance over a beautiful and well-cultivated country, diversified with mountains possessing form and interest.
Returning to the front of the House of Industry, and pursuing the path from the bank on which that building stands, we cross the Severn by means of the ferry at the Can Office, and enter the pastures called “_Stury’s Close_” where the Earl of Pembroke, Lord President of the Marches, “mustered all the country, both of horsemen and footmen,” in 1588 (a year memorable for the defeat of the Invincible Armada), and soon reach
THE GREY OR FRANCISCAN FRIARY.
[Picture: The Grey or Franciscan Friary]
The remnant illustrated by the wood cut comprises probably the refectory, which was partly re-edificed as late as the reign of Henry the Eighth.
This religious society, sometimes called Friars Minors, settled in this town early in the thirteenth century. Hawis, wife to Charleton Lord of Powys (born in 1291), and heir of the ancient Princes of Powys Gwenwynwyn, was a great benefactress to this friary, if not its second foundress.
From the quantity of bones which have been found within the precinct of this convent, it would seem that no unprofitable use was made of the privilege granted to this order by the Pope of “_liberam sepulturam_.” This and their reputed sanctity, as well as the popular belief that whoever was buried in their cemetery or in the habit of a grey friar would be secure from the attacks of evil spirits and find an easy entrance into heaven, were circumstances doubtless of such importance as to induce many persons to desire sepulture among such hallowed men.
The splendid stained glass now in the eastern window of St. Mary’s chancel is supposed to have originally decorated the church of this friary, which was the burial place of the Lords of Powys.
On the opposite side of the river is the foundry and the suburb of Coleham.
Passing under the arch of the English Bridge, to the left are some modern dwellings on the site of a curious half-timbered mansion erected in the reign of Elizabeth by William Jones, an alderman and opulent draper of the town, and father of Thomas Jones, the first mayor of Shrewsbury. A view and description of this curious building, communicated by the author of these pages, will be found in vol. 99, part ii. of the Gentleman’s Magazine.
A few yards beyond stood
THE DOMINICAN FRIARY,
which comprehended nearly the whole space now occupied by gardens between the bridge and the water gate. {176}
This order of mendicants took their name from their founder, and were sometimes called “Preachers” from their office, and “Black Friars” from their dress.
The convent, like those of the Austin and Franciscan friars, was placed on the margin of the river, outside the walls and adjacent to the bridges.
From the rich architectural remains, &c. which have occasionally been dug up here, the church must have been a spacious and elegant building; but, in common with the other convents, it shared the fate of the dissolution of monasteries, and was sold by Henry the Eighth in 1543. The hand of man, combined with the operations of time, had, previously to 1823, left but few vestiges either of the convent where Richard and George Plantagenet, two sons of Edward the Fourth, were born, or the more recent fortifications erected on this interesting spot,—where several military transactions were determined in various periods of our domestic history.
The bank on which this friary stood was levelled in the above-mentioned year, when the foundations of several walls were cleared to a considerable extent, and numerous capitals, pieces of mullions, with remains of stained glass, enamelled tiles, &c. were discovered by the workmen employed in the construction of a new building and wharf. Several stone graves were also brought to view, the masonry of which was well finished, and formed so as nearly to fit the corpse. After clearing the soil from these tombs, skeletons were found encased in red sand, but without the least trace of any thing in which the body might have been enveloped. The only remains of this once noble pile are the materials used in the construction of a stable and the wall surrounding the gardens. Adjoining is
THE WATER-LANE GATE,
[Picture: The Waterlane Gateway]
Through which the parliamentary army entered, Feb. 22d, 1644–5, and captured the town. The means by which this was accomplished showed much generalship and secrecy on the part of the Parliamentarians. It appears a detachment of soldiers belonging to that party left Wem, and marched under the shadow of night to the extremity of the Castle-foregate, where the troopers halted at four o’clock in the morning, in order that the foot soldiers might effect an entrance by stratagem. The infantry turned off on the left to the river, being led by a puritanical minister of the town, named Huson, a kinsman of the celebrated John Huson, who from a cobbler rose to be a colonel and a member of the Barebones parliament.
The dismounted troopers were under the command of Benbow, who, being a native of Shrewsbury, was aware of the part most easily attacked. From the end of Castle-foregate they advanced through the fields to the castle ditch (now a thoroughfare), which was defended on the town side by strong palisading and a breastwork of earth. A boat on the river contained several carpenters and other persons, who commenced sawing down the paling near the river to effect a passage for the soldiers. This was soon accomplished, and by assisting one another over the ditch the breastwork was gained. Having succeeded thus far, they seem to have divided themselves into two divisions; the one party, headed by Benbow, scaled the wall on the eminence between the Watch Tower and the Council House, by means of light ladders. The main body, consisting of 350 men, entered by the gate shewn in the engraving, to which a tower and outwork was formerly attached. This, and a similar fort about the middle of the lane where the town wall crossed, yielded without resistance by the connivance of careless and treacherous sentinels, who are supposed to have been intoxicated and privy to the design. The party who had scaled the wall hastened to procure an entrance at the north or castle gate, which was soon done, and having let down the draw-bridge, the horse, with Colonels Mytton and Bowyer at their head, made the best of their way to the main court of guard held in the Market-place, where they found their comrades engaged with the royalists. The loss on both sides was inconsiderable, amounting to only seven men and one captain. The castle surrendered about noon, when the garrison was immediately marched off to Ludlow, with the exception of thirteen poor Irishmen, who, being left to the tender mercies of the parliamentary leaders, were hanged the same day without trial.
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Memorials of ShrewsburyChapter V: Part 5
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