Chapter XVI

VISIT TO PARIS; JOURNAL DURING HER STAY THERE; LETTER FROM
THENCE; RETURN TO ENGLAND; LETTER FROM LAFAYETTE; SONNET “ON
SEEING THE TRICOLOR;” SOUTHEY’S “COLLOQUIES;” LETTER FROM MRS.
FRY; “NURSING SISTERS.”

Mrs. Opie had for some time been projecting a visit to Paris; and she now found an opportunity of indulging that desire for travelling, which, as we have seen, she entertained before the death of her father. With mingled emotions she anticipated revisiting a place she had formerly seen under such different circumstances, and she thus expressed her feelings on the occasion:—

It was with twofold sensations, of which, _at last_, pleasure
predominated, that I decided on revisiting Paris. * * When I
last saw it, I was accompanied by my husband, as well as
endeared friends, and my pleasant experiences were then
communicated to my beloved father. _Now_ I am alone in the
world, affording, not receiving, protection; and in every way my
position in life is changed. Yet, while my self-consciousness
and selfish feelings vent themselves in silent but heartfelt
regrets, I cannot but recollect that France has undergone
changes of far greater importance to itself and the world. The
France which I left a Republic, in 1802, has become a Monarchy
again, under the dominion of a Bourbon! and I can hardly help
smiling at my own engrossing egotism. * * *

During this, and her subsequent Parisian visit, Mrs. Opie kept a daily journal, (as indeed was her wont during all her journies,) in which she recorded events of interest, and carefully noted the attentions shewn her, of however trifling a character, whether by friends or strangers. The following extracts from the journal of this second visit to the French capital, may interest the reader.

* * * * Went on board the Lord Melville steamboat, at half past
four in the morning of the 10th of the 6th mo., accompanied by a
young lady whom I promised to see safe to Paris. My spirits
neither high nor low, and I resolved to keep recollections at
bay. * * *

The passage was rough, but I did not suffer from sea sickness.
The next day, after a good night, we started at nine o’clock in
the diligence, and had a pleasant journey to Abbeville; one of
our companions, a pretty Frenchwoman of twenty-five, surprised
me by her ignorance and excessive curiosity, and interested me
by her evident family attachment. She travelled without a
bonnet, (in a very becoming cap,) and told me she rarely wore
one, but worked, and walked, and went to mass, without. At sight
of her brother, who came to meet her, her fine eyes overflowed
with tears.

After a pleasant journey, the traveller reached Paris on the 12th, and, being welcomed by her friends, says:—“I shall like my _séjour_ with them while I stay, and am thankful for everything—all so much more than I deserve.” Next day, on the Place de Grêve, she beheld a crowd gathering round the guillotine! a man was about to suffer death for murder.

* * * For a curious traveller it was an opportune circumstance,
and we got out and drew near to examine the awful instrument; a
_gendarme_ told me “_d’éntrer, et faire la tour_.” I found it
was the same in form and size as that _d’autrefois_. Thence we
proceeded to the Jardin des Plantes, which was delightful; I saw
the elephant bathe, and admired the splendid giraffe, and one
bird, the _aigle destructeur_, which alone, it was worth coming
to see. (1st day.) Went to the Champs Elisées, to Meeting at
T. S.’s—situation charming—we met only seven persons, and sat
only one hour. (15th.) Went to the Duchess de Broglie’s, and
had an interesting conversation with her. Thence went to the
Hall of the Institute, and was much pleased. (17th inst.) Went
this morning to the Marquis de Lafayette’s, found him at home;
was most kindly received, and presented my letter, and begged
him to read it; he said he was glad to know me, and his
daughters would call on, and invite me. A delightful loveable
man! a handsome blooming man of seventy-two. My hero through
life! How my dear father would have rejoiced in my knowing him.
Came home pleased, and bought some confitures. (18th.) Had
tickets for the Chamber of Deputies, and was admitted to the
_Tribune des Dames_ at twelve. At two the chamber
assembled—noise, of the _côté droit_ especially, _astonishing_.
Did not understand much, but enjoyed what I did, and was
excessively interested. Saw Benjamin Constant, and heard and
understood him. Saw Berard. House up at six. (20th, Saturday.)
Lafayette sent me tickets for the Chamber again, with an
English note sealed with the head of Washington: precious! At
nine went to Baron Cuvier’s, and stayed till half past
eleven—amused and flattered. (1st day.) To the Champs
Elisées; a short, but most interesting, sitting. It was the
_fête Dieu_, and we should all have liked to have seen the
procession, but could not, without giving up meeting. (2nd day,
22nd.) Went to see the glass manufactory in the Faubourg St.
Antoine, and on my way saw le Café Turque, full of glasses and
bouquets; it must be very pretty lighted up. At the manufactory,
the largest glass 130 inches (French) long, and 63 in width.
Being near Vincennes, went thither in a _cabriolet de remise_,
and ascended 250 steps to the tower of the dungeon. Was repaid
by the view from the top and the fine fresh air, but a tempest
came on so violently we could only get to the chapel, and not to
the ditch, where the poor d’Enghien was shot. Part of his
monument is very fine, and the painted window very much so, the
designs are from Raphael. All the way home it rained in our
faces; I held _mon petit chapeau_ on my lap, and put my shawl
round my head, and the hat escaped unhurt.[28]

On the 23rd. The evening was spent at Lafayette’s, where she found many Americans, to whom she was presented, and Mr. Benjamin Constant, who addressed her “politely but coldly.” With her distinguished host and his family she was “delighted,” and two days after, says, “I went at half past ten to Gen. Lafayette’s to sit with him, while he sat for his picture to Davis; Lady Morgan was also there, and I enjoyed my visit. Returning home I went to the Luxembourg gardens, ‘the gardens of Roses!’ and afterwards to La Morgue, whence I hastily withdrew, feeling that I could not bear it.”

The Journal continues:—

(7th day, 27th.) To the General’s, and staid till past twelve,
then to the Tuilleries’ palace, which much delighted me with its
grandeur and beauty. My evening was spent at Madame la Baronne
Cuvier’s _soirée_, where I met David, and returned home by
twelve, much pleased. (2nd day, 30th.) David came to me and I
sat for my medal; afterwards spent the day in visiting various
places.

The next few days record sittings to David for her medal, and visits to the General’s, to be present while his portrait was proceeding.

(5th day, 2nd of mo.) Breakfasted at the Hôtel des Isles
Britanniques, and went with my friends to _le Palais_ * * * saw
fine pictures, and fine furniture and rooms; and the bed where
Napoleon slept, the last night he passed in Paris, and the table
on which he signed his second abdication! The same day went to
the Hospital for incurables, and was delighted with _Sœur
Angelique, sœur de la Charité_; I must go again; it is a most
perfect Institution. Went afterwards to the Maison de Santé, in
the Rue du Quartier St. Denis; and dined at the Café de Paris,
on the Boulevards; dinner excellent, and the room so pretty.
(7th day, 4th.) Went to Père la Chaise, and being forced by
rain into the chapel, saw a young woman give money to have a
candle lighted; then she took a chair, and knelt on it and
prayed; no doubt it was for the soul of one lost and loved! We
were twenty-two in company, of all ranks and conditions, but she
alone proved herself devout; soon after, as we were walking
along, we saw a young lady in deep mourning, beside a newly-made
grave, sobbing violently and wringing her hands, while a
gentleman with her begged her to come away and be consoled. I
wished to stop and ask him what friend they had lost, but
_dared_ not; if I had been alone, I think I should. The view of
Paris from this interesting spot is delightful; I felt much
interested in this singular scene, and shed many tears at sight
of one inscription, in particular. I envied the _power_ of
planting flowers on the graves of those we love. We could not
find poor George Blackshaw’s grave, nor his son’s. I must come
again.

Short entries for several days succeed, recording the events of each day; the completion of her profile medal, by David; her visits to La B. Cuvier; to San Lazare and la Salpétriere; to the General Lafayette’s; to Sèvres and St. Cloud, &c.

(11th, 1st day.) After meeting, David took me to l’Abbé
Gregoire’s and I was delighted with my visit, and next day he
accompanied me to Père la Chaise; we had a most interesting walk
of four hours, but could not find G. B.’s tomb. In the evening I
received a letter from De Bardelin, dated _Paris_, and, glad
surprise! he came and took tea with us. The next evening went to
Gen. Lafayette’s for the last time, and he invited me to go to
La Grange.

On the 17th, she went with a party of friends to Montmorency, and was charmed with the country, but “saw Rousseau’s tomb and the Hermitage _unmoved_!” Each day bears a record of some visit or excursion, with the many friends who gathered around her. On one of these occasions, at Bishop Luscombe’s she “met a lady whom she had known in 1806;” and beheld with much pleasure, a picture by her husband, which her friend David “thought very good, taking it for a Spanish picture; it is reckoned like Murillo.” A visit to the _atelier_ of the sculptor also draws forth her warm encomiums; she says, “_delighted_ with his General Foy; the statue admirable, the bas-reliefs excellent; also I liked Gregoire’s bust much.” Shortly after she went to see a somnambule, and was “put _en rapport avec elle_—_she_ very complimentary—I not satisfied; am to see another; my companion was in ecstacies about nothing.” Her journal continues—

(22nd.) Went to l’Hôtel Dieu, was satisfied; went next to
Nôtre Dame, and saw, in the sacristy, the things used at the
coronation of Napoleon; also, in boxes, the relics—_le porte
Dieu_, used at Napoleon’s coronation; and the _glory_ of rare
diamonds; also the robes of Napoleon and Josephine, and the
_robes brodées en fleurs_, which he had made for the pope; and
the robes of Charles X, _bleu et argent_. Went next to the
Palais de Justice, and heard pleading and judgment given in the
Cour Royale and the Cour de Cassation. Went afterwards to the
flower market—delicious! and so home, well satisfied with my
morning.

The following letter is selected from amongst several written at the time:—

Rue Cadet, 11, F. S. Montmartre.
Ce 24me., du 7me mois, 1829.

At length my too long neglected friend, I sit down to write to
thee; a duty and a pleasure, which I have found it easier to
contemplate in prospect, than to fulfil and procure—but _trêve
d’excuses_. Here I have been six weeks! I came for _four_, but
how could I quit this _beau Paris et les amiables Parisiens, que
j’ai trouvés ici_? Dear friend, were I not, as I hope, too old
to have my head turned, I think it would have been turned here,
by all the attentions and flatteries I have received; but it was
humbling, in some measure, to find that I was courted for my
_past_, not my _recent_ writings. The latter are not in the
French style; I fear I must own that their moral standard is not
as high as ours; but there are here, I fully believe, men, and
women too, holy enough to save the city. My experiences have
been various, and among all classes; from the sceptic who owns
to me, that when he dies, he expects to go into entire
nothingness; to the exemplary and pious catholic, who, believing
in his own salvation, is kindly and fervently anxious for
_mine_; but I wish my two Generals—one known to thee
personally, the other by reputation, to be the chief heroes of
this letter. After a month’s residence here, I wrote to
Bardelin, at St. Germain’s, where I fancied he was, to tell him
I was coming thither, and hoped to see him. He answered me that
evening, from _Paris_, and came to see me soon after; and I find
him out of the service, a Maréchal-de-camp; General chevalier
décoré! How glad it made me!

The other general is Lafayette; the hero of my childhood, the
idol of my youth! And I have found him far beyond my idea of
him, high raised as it was! He is a handsome man of seventy-two,
humble, simple, and blushing like a girl, at his own praises,
with manners the most perfect possible; and his _bonhommie_ is
so striking, that one almost forgets his greatness and his fame.
I brought a letter to him from my friend, Dr. H., which I
delivered in person—I shall never forget his reception!

His daughters called on me the next day, and I had a note from
him, inviting me to his _soirée_. [The letter goes on to
describe what is related in the journal.] * * * The great
delight was my friend M. S.’s having sent over Davis to paint
Lafayette, and Davis wishing me to be present to animate the
General! Accordingly I was there five mornings, having his
conversation to myself. I was also at his house in the evening,
five times. * * *

I have another General to tell about, one of the first men in
France as to family; the Marquis de Clermont Tonnerre, (who as a
boy was known to thee;) he gave me a dinner the other day, the
most beautiful little French dinner I ever saw. Dusgate is a
complete _savant_, shut up, studying mathematics, and, for
health’s sake, living on bread and water!! He is, however, very
clever and agreeable. The Marquis and I were soon acquainted,
and agreed to go together to see sights; we were together some
hours, during which I was delighted and edified by his deep
piety, (he is a _bon Catholique_,) and he gratified me by his
desire, that I who am “_si bonne, et si dévouée aux bonnes
œuvres_,” (according to him,) should be “_entièrement
Catholique_.”

My next hero is no General, but a _sculpteur libéral_, the first
man of his class here; who, before I saw him, was desirous of
making a medal of me, for having made him _cry his eyes out_ by
my works. _Malgré moi_, he has made me _en medaille_, me and my
_petit bonnet_, which the artists here say looks like a Phrygian
helmet, and has _un air classique_; but, though young and
flattered, the thing is _like_, and David satisfied.[29] To this
gentleman I owe some of the most interesting hours I have passed
here; with a mind in some respects analogous to my own, he has
my husband’s _poetical views_ of his art. He has given me much
of his precious time; we spent some hours at Père la Chaise,
vainly seeking my poor friend’s grave. Père la Chaise is a
lovely place. This morning I have been to see an Infant School;
very good. Yesterday I saw the lady who is one of the chief
directors; she excels all the women I have yet seen here, the
Duchess de Broglie excepted. I believe I love her already! In
about ten days I expect to set off for England, by Dieppe. I
shall leave Paris with regret, and deep gratitude. We have a
nice quiet meeting in the Champs Elisées on the first day
morning. * * Now for noble monuments, (principally by my
companion,) fine trees, a blue sky, and affecting recollections.

With love, I am thy affectionate friend,
A. OPIE.

The same day (the 24th) Mrs. Opie visited the Bibliothèque du Roi, and was much amused, “but too late to see the manuscripts:” the succeeding four days were spent in visiting, and on the 28th she writes:—

Up at five, and off to Fontainebleau, enjoying the day
excessively; the palace almost painfully interesting, from
association; splendid and beautiful; and the forest unique and
delightful. It was night before we left it; on the 29th up again
at five, and by six off, along the forest ride, to where we must
take boat;—too soon for it, and had to walk two hours, so
climbed a rock in the forest, and went to see a curious
water-mill; took boat at nine, nearly constant rain, but not
disagreeable; the voyage seven long hours; the coffee excellent
and eggs ditto, and I got a good breakfast, and am writing on
board the boat, to keep myself awake; have read nearly three
books of De Lisle’s poem on Imagination, some parts of it are
excellent.—Reached Paris before four, the rain having ceased.

A succession of daily visits and friendly greetings followed, during the first week in August, (on the 7th she “heard the ministry was changed, and nothing talked of but this change,”) and on the 13th and 14th saw the prizes distributed at the Sourds Muets, (“excessively interested”) and went to a _séance_, at the Ecole de Commerce et d’Industrie, where she heard La Fitte, Charles Dupin, &c., and was much delighted. She continues:—

(11th.) Went to Nôtre Dame to see the King and Royal Family,
and saw them also walk in the street. (25th.) I went to the
Institute and heard two _prix de vertu_ adjudged, and saw the
prize given for the best poem on the art of printing; the prize
poem was read by Le Mercier after the young man had received the
prize, and Baron Cuvier delivered a most excellent discourse. My
pleasure was increased by seeing Lally Tollendal opposite me,
whom I recognised and was glad to see so young and well looking,
still. Next day (26th.) Went with Victor Sauce to the Palais
de Justice, and heard Dupin plead for Berton, and admirably, but
he was condemned! In the evening at Gérard’s, the sentence was
much talked of and condemned. On 1st day to Meeting, a solemn
and favoured one, to me at least. 2nd day evening to the
Missionary Meeting.

Early in September she mentions the arrival of her friend Mrs. Austin, and her cousin, Mr. Briggs, with many others, in company with whom she paid visits and made excursions, each day giving a note of where and with whom, in her journal. On the 21st she paid her promised visit to La Grange, of which she writes:—

Started _par la diligence_, with a very agreeable companion, T.
B., with whom on my return I am to visit the _ateliers_ of
artists. At Rosoy, found the General’s cabriolet waiting;
thought the approach to La Grange beautiful; an ancient castle,
lawn _à l’Anglaise_. The General as usual, fresh, benevolent
looking, and admirable, in all ways. His uncle, the celebrated
Ségur, there; his daughters, son-in-law, and grandchildren all
to my mind; a most happy day. (22nd.) Rose early with much
thankfulness for unmerited mercies. (23rd.) At ten we
assembled in the _salon_; at half-past the General led me down
to breakfast, a breakfast of hot meat and pottage, wines and
fruit, ending with coffee and dry toast. After breakfast the
weather cleared, and the General shewed us, and many
newly-arrived guests, his farm, all but the Norfolk and other
cows; they were out. Enjoyed our walk, afterwards went to see
_le jardin potager_. At dinner, led, and placed as usual; the
evening most interesting! The General gave us an account of some
of the early events of the revolution, the other gentlemen
assisting. The evening ended only too soon, but I read in my own
room the Memoirs of Ségur, and with a curious feeling lay down,
knowing I should see him and Lafayette next day!!

(5th day, 25th.) Much pleased with Madame de L.’s schools, and
walked in the park till the General admitted us into his
library. What a library, full of interest! The _swords_ he has,
especially. The room round, and commanding his farm, as well as
some beautiful willows, and points of view of home scenery. The
dinner interesting, the evening not so much so: and it was my
last!

Mrs. Opie’s stay in Paris was extended some weeks longer, during which she appears to have enjoyed, with great satisfaction, the opportunities for intercourse with her friends, and for seeing objects of interest around her. She mentions sitting to an artist, for Galignani, and also to her cousin, H. P. Briggs. On the 20th of October, “_the saddest of anniversaries_,” (that of her father’s death,) she left Paris, and on the 23rd went on board the King George, for England, and after a sixteen hours’ passage, arrived, “thankful for safe return,” in her native country.

Shortly after her return, she received the following letter from General Lafayette:—

La Grange, November 5th, 1829.

Your kind letter, (17th of the 10th month,) dear and respected
friend, for want of being directly sent to la Grange, has
remained some days unreceived, and three days more unanswered,
on account of an invitation to Provins, the mention of which you
may have seen in the _Courier Française_, or _Journal de Paris_,
November 3rd; so that I remain acquitted for the delay, and am
anxious to acquit myself with a due tribute of gratitude, for
these last testimonies of your indulging kindness. You don’t say
whether the distinguished artist, your friend, remains in town.
I hope I shall have the pleasure of a personal acquaintance with
him. Remember me very kindly to your young cousin. The whole
family at la Grange join in friendly compliments and good wishes
to him and to you, dear Madam, and I am most cordially, Your
obliged friend,

LAFAYETTE.

P.S. With much pleasure I have read the appeal in behalf of the
Greeks. The 200 sets of plates delivered to Doctor Temple,
cannot be in better hands. The Rev. Jonas King is my particular
friend. I much wish the religious zeal in behalf of Greece may
have some influence on the policy of your government; when the
Christian powers have it in their power, and it has become their
duty, as well as their true interest, to insure, upon a large
and liberal scale, the independence, liberty, and consequence,
of that so very interesting nation.

We add here some verses written by Mrs. Opie during this visit; inscribed,

ON SEEING THE TRICOLOR AGAIN.

At sight of thee, O! Tricolor,
I seem to feel youth’s hours return;
The lov’d, the lost, those hours restore,—
Again for freedom’s cause I burn!

When last those blended tints I saw,
Napoleon’s laurell’d brow they grac’d,
Ere, in despite of freedom’s law,
The crown that simple badge displaced.

But now a different scene is nigh,
Lo! freedom’s sons once more are met!
See, patriots lift those colours high;
Who leads them on?—their Lafayette!

See him, from dangers, dungeons, death,
Escap’d through heaven’s almighty hand,
To win again the civic wreath,
And sav’d, to save his native land!

Hail! freedom’s dearest, purest son,
What honours now adorn thy brow;
Thou hast the _hardest_ conquest won,
The victor o’er thyself art thou!

Thy country’s good thy only aim,
Thou couldst thy life’s loved dream resign;—
Then take the meed thy virtues claim,
And be the world’s loud plaudit _thine_!

Shortly before Mrs. Opie left England, she had written to Mr. Southey, who answered her in a letter which was published in his “Memoirs.” In this letter he mentioned that he had sent her a copy of his “Colloquies,”—in which he had referred to her in these terms:—

“I have another woman in my mind’s eye; one who has been the
liveliest of the lively, the gayest of the gay; admired for her
talents by those who knew her only in her writings, and esteemed
for her worth by those who were acquainted with her in the
relations of private life; one who, having grown up in the
laxest sect of semi-christians, felt the necessity of vital
religion, while attending upon her father with dutiful
affection, during the long and painful infirmities of his old
age; and who has now joined a sect, distinguished from all
others by its formalities and enthusiasm, because it was among
its members that she first found the lively faith for which her
soul thirsted. She has assumed the garb and even the shibboleth
of the sect, not losing, in the change, her warmth of heart and
cheerfulness of spirit, nor gaining by it any increase of
sincerity and frankness; for with these, nature had endued her,
and society, even that of the great, had not corrupted them. The
resolution, the activity, the genius, the benevolence, which are
required for such a work, are to be found in her; and were she
present in person, as she is in imagination, I would say to her
* * Thou art the woman!”[30]

“The work” in which Mr. Southey was anxious to engage the sympathies and aid of Mrs. Fry and Mrs. Opie, was the establishment of Societies for reforming the internal management of Hospitals and Infirmaries; so as “to do for the hospitals what Mrs. Fry had already done for the prisons.”

On her return to England, Mrs. Opie wrote to Mrs. Fry, communicating Mr. Southey’s letter; she replied:—

Upton, 12th, 12th mo., 1829.
MY DEAR FRIEND,

I only yesterday heard from Catherine thy wish to have R.
Southey’s letter returned. I now therefore send it thee at once;
being in London I could not do it yesterday.

Pray, dear friend, let me have a copy of it, because I think
that there is much truth in its contents. I also wish thee
seriously to weigh the subject, and if thou feelest, as well as
seest, thy road to open in it, I shall be glad; because I have
seen the thing wanted to be done, ever since the days of my
youth. Is not London the place to begin such a work—or is the
country? I think what has been accomplished in Liverpool is very
important. Let me have thy sentiments upon all the points in
question, and believe me,

Thy very affectionate friend,
E. FRY.

From a passage in Mrs. Fry’s Life (vol. 2, p. 383) we find that, some years subsequently, her thoughts reverted to the subject; and the results are thus recorded.

“Mrs. Fry’s habitual acquaintance with the chamber of sickness,
and with scenes of suffering and death, had taught her the
necessity that exists for a class of women to attend upon such,
altogether different and superior to the hireling nurses that
are generally to be obtained. Her communications with Mr.
Fliedner, and all she learned from him personally, of his
establishment at Kaiserswerth, stimulated her desire to attempt
something of the kind in England. Her own occupations being too
urgent and numerous to allow of much personal attention, the
plan was undertaken, and on a small scale carried into effect,
by her sister, Mrs. S. Gurney, with the assistance of her
daughters and some other ladies.”

Some misconception having arisen as to this institution, it was thought desirable to change the original designation of “Protestant Sisters of Charity,” for that of “Nursing Sisters.”

“The exertions of this little society (continues the Memoir)
have been hitherto greatly circumscribed, and it may be looked
upon more as an experiment, than as an object attained. The help
of the “nursing sisters” has been sought and greatly valued by
persons of all classes, from royalty to the poorest and most
destitute.”

-----

[28] She mentioned afterwards, that the driver was much amused at seeing her do this, and at last said, “really, madame, you must be very fond of your _petit chapeau_, to give yourself so much trouble about it.” To which I replied, “_oui, j’aime beaucoup mon petit chapeau—c’est mon petit Buonaparte_.” Oh! what a look the man gave me! his fine dark eyes were almost fearfully bright, as, with a smile of delight, he cried, “_vous êtes une brave femme, d’avoir osé me répondre de la sorte, et je vous jure, madame, que je vous menerais même en Angleterre!_”

[29] The engraving which forms the Frontispiece to this volume is taken from this medal.

[30] Second volume of Southey’s “Colloquies,” at the 322nd page.—On reading this eloquent eulogium, Mrs. Opie observed, “It so overpowered me, that I could not read it through at first, and wept because the eye it would most have pleased, would not see it.”