Chapter II: Preface

Many books have been written about Mexico, but several of the best works were written a quarter of a century ago and are now out of print. This fact and the developments of the past few years leads the author to believe that there is a field for another book on that most interesting country; a book that should present in readable form reliable information concerning the customs and characteristics of the people of Mexico, as well as the great natural resources of the country and their present state of development, or lack of development.

It has been the aim of the author to make a complete and accurate presentation of the subject rather than to advance radical views concerning and harsh criticism of our next-door neighbours. With this idea in mind he has read nearly every prominent work on Mexico and Mexican history, as well as other current periodical literature concerning that country during the two years devoted to the preparation of this volume. It is hoped that the wide range of subjects, covering the customs, habits, amusements, history, antiquities, and resources will render the volume of value to any one interested in Mexico and her progress.

If this volume shall aid in any way to a better understanding of Mexico by Americans, or in furthering the present progressive movement in that country, then the author will feel amply repaid for the months of labour devoted to its preparation.

The author wishes to make special acknowledgment of obligation to his friend Mr. C. R. Birt, his companion during the greater part of his travels through Mexico, and to whose artistic sense in selection and grouping the excellence of many of the photographs herewith reproduced is due.

TOLEDO, OHIO, _September, 1907_.

CONTENTS

CHAPTER PAGE

I. AZTEC LAND 1

II. ACROSS THE PLATEAUS 22

III. THE CAPITAL 46

IV. THE VALLEY OF ANAHUAC 74

V. THE TROPICS 90

VI. A GLIMPSE OF THE ORIENTAL IN THE OCCIDENT 111

VII. THE ISTHMUS OF TEHUANTEPEC 128

VIII. IN THE FOOTSTEPS OF THE ANCIENTS 144

IX. WOMAN AND HER SPHERE 162

X. THE PEON 183

XI. CUSTOMS AND CHARACTERISTICS 201

XII. HOLIDAYS AND HOLY-DAYS 225

XIII. A TRANSPLANTED SPORT 243

XIV. EDUCATION AND THE ARTS 257

XV. MINES AND MINING 274

XVI. RAILWAYS AND THEIR INFLUENCE 290

XVII. RELIGIOUS FORCES 308

XVIII. PASSING OF THE LAWLESS 328

XIX. THE STORY OF THE REPUBLIC 343

XX. THE GUIDING HAND 369

XXI. THE REVOLUTION OF 1910 396

XXII. THE SIERRAS AND BEYOND 415

XXIII. THE RUINED CITIES OF YUCATAN 438

XXIV. THE PRESENT AND THE FUTURE 456

APPENDICES 479

INDEX 485

LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS

PAGE

A BELLE OF TEHUANTEPEC (_See page 180_) _Frontispiece_

SNOW-CAPPED POPOCATAPETL 4

GENERAL MAP OF MEXICO 6

AN INDIAN MAIDEN 10

“THE LAND OF BURROS AND _SOMBREROS_” 22

MARKET SCENE IN SAN LUIS POTOSI 30

COCK-FIGHTING IN MEXICO 33

THE _MAGUEY_ 41

MAP OF THE VALLEY OF MEXICO 46

THE PATIO OF AN OLD RESIDENCE 48

THE CATHEDRAL 60

A PICTURESQUE PULQUE SHOP 66

THE CALENDAR STONE 77

SCENES ON THE VIGA CANAL 82

CASTLE OF CHAPULTEPEC 86

BRIDGE AT ORIZABA.—THE BUZZARDS OF VERA CRUZ.—AVENUE OF PALMS,
VERA CRUZ 98

AN INDIAN HOME IN THE HOT COUNTRY 104

RICE CULTURE 109

THE AQUEDUCT, OAXACA.—A FOUNTAIN IN OAXACA 116

THE MARKET-WOMEN OF OAXACA.—THE POTTERY-MARKET, OAXACA 118

CROSSING THE RIVER ON MARKET-DAY 121

THE MARKET, TEHUANTEPEC 132

ENTRANCE TO THE UNDERGROUND CHAMBER, MITLA.—NORTH TEMPLE,
MITLA.—HALL OF THE MONOLITHS, MITLA 157

A ZAPOTECO WOMAN 161

“PLAYING THE BEAR” 170

WASHING ON THE BANKS OF A STREAM 177

A PEON AND HIS WIFE 184

A CARGADOR 198

MAKING _TORTILLAS_ 215

A MEXICAN MARKET 218

CANDY BOY AND GIRL 220

BURNING AN EFFIGY OF JUDAS AT EASTER-TIME 233

CANDLE BOOTHS IN GUADALUPE 240

BEGGARS OF THE CITY OF MEXICO 242

PLANTING THE _BANDERILLAS_ 250

AN AZTEC SCHOOLGIRL 266

PEON MINERS AT LUNCH 280

ALONG THE MEXICAN SOUTHERN RAILWAY 300

WAYSIDE SHRINE WITH AN OFFERING OF FLOWERS 312

A _RURALE_ 332

ARMY HEADQUARTERS, CITY OF MEXICO 336

A VILLAGE CHURCH 364

A COMPANY OF _RURALES_ 370

SR. DON FRANCISCO I. MADERO 411

A GROUP OF PEONS 419

TARAHUMARI INDIANS 421

CRUMBLING RUINS OF THE ANCIENT MEXICAN CIVILIZATION 441

AN OLD CHURCH 451

PRIMITIVE TRANSPORTATION 457

PRIMITIVE PLOUGHING NEAR OAXACA 465

MEXICO AND HER PEOPLE TO-DAY