Chapter I: Preface

The following sketches of a journey in Norway, Sweden, and Denmark are given to the public in the hope that their perusal will furnish information concerning the people, and attractions, of countries which are being visited by Americans more and more each succeeding year. While they may impart some useful knowledge to intending travellers over the same ground, it is hoped as well that they will furnish entertainment to those who travel only through books.

The memories of the days passed in the North are so sunny and delightful, that I wish others to enjoy them with me; and if the reader receives a clear impression of the novel experiences and thorough pleasure attending a journey through Norseland, and partakes, if only in a limited degree, of my enthusiasm over the character of the people and the imposing grandeurs of nature, the object of this book will be accomplished.

E. C. K.

CONTENTS.

CHAPTER I.
_COPENHAGEN AND ENVIRONS._
PAGE
LÜBECK—JOURNEY TO COPENHAGEN—HERR RENTIER—BERTEL
THORVALDSEN—MUSEUMS—AN EVENING AT THE TIVOLI—SOUVENIRS OF
HAMLET—A FAMOUS MOTHER-IN-LAW—THE FREDERIKSBORG PALACE—AN
AIMLESS WIDOW 15

CHAPTER II.
_ACROSS SWEDEN BY THE GOTHA CANAL._

A DAY AT GOTHENBURG—THE GOTHA CANAL—LIFE ON THE
“VENUS”—KEEPING OUR MEAL ACCOUNTS—THE TROLLHÄTTA
FALLS—PASTORAL SCENERY—SWEDISH BOARDING-SCHOOL
GIRLS—LAKE MÄLAR 41

CHAPTER III.
_IN AND ABOUT STOCKHOLM._

THE ISLANDS AND FEATURES OF THE CITY—THE WESTMINSTER ABBEY
OF SWEDEN—INTERESTING MUSEUMS—LEADING CITY FOR
TELEPHONES—SCENES AT EVENING CONCERTS—THE MULTITUDE OF
EXCURSIONS—DOWN THE BALTIC TO VAXHOLM—ROYAL CASTLES ON THE
LAKE—UNIVERSITY TOWN OF UPSALA 57

CHAPTER IV.
_RAILWAY JOURNEY TO THRONDHJEM._

SWEDISH RAILWAYS AND MEAL STATIONS—AMONG THE SNOW
BANKS—THE DESCENT TO THRONDHJEM—THE SHRINE OF ST.
OLAF—NORTH CAPE STEAMERS 75

CHAPTER V.
_THE NORWEGIAN NORDLAND._

THE EVER-PRESENT SALMON—A CHEESE EXHIBITION—THE BLESSED
ISLAND BELT—TORGHÄTTA AND THE SEVEN SISTERS—SCENES WITHIN
THE ARCTIC CIRCLE—VISIT TO THE SVARTISEN GLACIER—COASTING
ALONG THE LOFODEN ISLANDS—SEA FOWL AND EIDER DUCKS—REINDEER
SWIMMING ACROSS THE FJORD 89

CHAPTER VI.
_FROM TROMSÖ TO THE NORTH CAPE._

THE SIGHTS OF TROMSÖ—A VISIT TO A WHALE-OIL FACTORY—THE
MOST NORTHERN TOWN IN THE WORLD—BIRD ISLANDS IN THE
ARCTIC OCEAN—A PICNIC AT THE BASE OF THE NORTH CAPE—THE
MIDNIGHT SUN—PERPLEXITIES OF PERPETUAL DAY 111

CHAPTER VII.
_THE VOYAGE BACK TO THRONDHJEM._

THE LYNGEN FJORD—LAPP ENCAMPMENT IN THE TROMSDAL—A SMUKE
PIGE—LAPP HUTS AND BABIES—REINDEER, AND THEIR MANIFOLD
USES—LOADING CATTLE—FAREWELL APPEARANCE OF THE MIDNIGHT
SUN—SCENES AMONG THE STEERAGE 133

CHAPTER VIII.
_MOLDE AND THE ROMSDAL._

CHRISTIANSUND—RESTING AT MOLDE—LEPROSY IN NORWAY—FIRST
CARRIOLE DRIVE—STRUGGLING WITH THE NORSE LANGUAGE—WALK
THROUGH THE ROMSDAL 151

CHAPTER IX.
_A MOUNTAIN WALK._

STEAMBOAT SERVICE—A NIGHT IN A MOUNTAIN SÆTER—PRIMITIVE
ACCOMMODATIONS—A TALKATIVE FARMER—RIDING HORSEBACK UNDER
DIFFICULTIES—AN EXHAUSTING TRAMP AND A TRIAL OF PATIENCE—UP
THE GEIRANGER FJORD TO MEROK—APPROACH TO HELLESYLT 169

CHAPTER X.
_ACROSS COUNTRY DRIVE._

POSTING SYSTEM AND MANNER OF TRAVELLING IN THE
INTERIOR—CHARACTERISTICS OF THE NORWEGIANS—A DAY’S
CARRIOLING—A MORNING WALK—RIVAL INNKEEPERS—SCENES IN THE
HAY FIELDS—OUR THIRD DAY’S RIDE—RESTING AT SANDE 187

CHAPTER XI.
_ON AND ABOUT THE SOGNEFJORD._

A DAY ON THE SOGNEFJORD—EVENING SCENES AT A NORWEGIAN
HOTEL—CARRIOLING THROUGH THE LAERDAL—BORGUND CHURCH—THE
GRANDEURS OF THE NAERÖFJORD AND WALK THROUGH THE
NAERÖDAL—OUR DRIVE TO VOSSEVANGEN—A MORNING WALK TO EIDE 211

CHAPTER XII.
_THE HARDANGER FJORD._

A SABBATH AT VIK—ROAD BUILDING—VISIT TO THE VÖRINGSFOS—ODDE
ON THE SÖRFJORD—EXCURSION TO THE SKJÆGGEDALSFOS—THE
BRUARBRÆ—FROM ODDE BY STEAMER TO BERGEN 231

CHAPTER XIII.
_BERGEN._

OUR EXPERIENCES IN THE “WEEPING CITY”—SCENES IN THE FISH
MARKET—RAINY WALKS ABOUT TOWN—A BENEFICIAL LICENCE
SYSTEM—VOYAGE ACROSS THE NORTH SEA—UP THE RIVER MAAS TO
ROTTERDAM 253

CHAPTER XIV.
_EXPENSES AND PRACTICAL HINTS._

WHAT DID IT COST?—THE ROUTE AND TIME ALLOWED FOR THE
JOURNEY—CLOTHING AND FOOD—LADIES TRAVELLING ALONE—THE
RESULT OF POLITENESS AND CONSIDERATION—CONCLUSION 267

COPENHAGEN AND ENVIRONS.