Chapter II: Preface (2)

95 yards excavation, at 20c. per yard. $19.00
1,062 ft. stone-foundation, at 15c. per ft. 159.30
24 ft. stone steps and coping, at 28c. per ft. 6.72
2,000 bricks in chimneys, laid, at $12 per M. 24.00
517 yards plastering, inside at 25c. per yard. 129.25
130 ” ” outside, at 30c. per yard. 39.00
1,850 ft. of timber, at $15 per M. 27.75
2 sills, 3 × 8 in. 34 ft. long.
2 sills, 3 × 8 in. 25 ft. long.
1 girder, 4 × 8 in. 32 ft. long.
4 posts, 4 × 8 in. 11 ft. long.
3 ties, 3 × 6 in. 34 ft. long.
2 plates, 4 × 6 in. 15 ft. long.
2 perlines, 3 × 8 in. 25 ft. long.
2 perlines, 4 × 6 in. 18 ft. long.
100 beams, 1¼ × 8 in. 13 ft. long.
300 wall-strips, at 11c. each. 33.00
4 locust-posts, at 30c. each, $1.20; 190 flooring, at 20c.
each, $38. 39.20
216 shingling-lath, at 6c. each. 12.96
39 bunches shingles, at $1.25 per bunch. 48.75
3 cellar windows, at $3, $9; 12 plain windows, at $7, $84. 93.00
17 doors, at $4 each, $68; 2 verandas, $50 each, $100. 168.00
Stairs, $20; cornice materials, $18. 38.00
Closet finish and base, $15; nails, $12; cartage, $20. 47.00
Painting, $40; carpenter’s labor, $100; incidentals, $25.07. 165.07
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Total cost, complete. 1,050.00
Omitting cellar and verandas would save 300.00
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Total, after deductions. $750.00

DESIGN VIII.

A COTTAGE, COSTING $800 TO $1,050.

This design is an enlargement of the small cottage described in Design I. The arrangements are very complete in convenience, appearance, and economy.... EXTERIOR, (fig. 30).—The outlines and style are simple. The front is enlivened by the Porch, Bay-Window, and other projections. The details of finish are of neat design, and in harmony, giving an agreeable expression of taste and refinement—features especially pleasing in cottage architecture.... CELLAR, (fig. 31).—Hight in clear, 6½ feet. It is under the main building only; has two windows, and stairs leading to the first story. It contains 378 feet area, giving abundant room for all ordinary requirements.... FIRST STORY, (fig. 32).—Hight of ceiling, 9 feet. The best use is made of the space by having but few divisions, leaving good-sized rooms. The Hall is small, but is conveniently arranged to answer all necessary purposes. It is entered from the front porch, and communicates directly with the parlor and dining-room, and by the main stairs with the second story. There is sufficient room for a hat-rack at the right of the front door. The Parlor is of fair size, the large bay-window adding materially to its area and cheerfulness. With very little expense in furniture, this apartment may be made pleasant and cosey. The Dining-room extends the whole width of the house, and has a window at each end. It is conveniently arranged, with doors opening from the hall, parlor, kitchen, pantry, and to the stairs. The Kitchen is commodious and pleasant; has three windows, an outside rear entrance, and adjoins the dining-room, pantry, and bedroom. The Pantry is sufficiently large and convenient to answer the requirements of both dining-room and kitchen. It has a small window, and is thoroughly shelved. The Bedroom opens directly from the kitchen. Its purpose in the partial erection (as shown in Design I.) may be changed in the completed building here described by making it an auxiliary of the kitchen for the coarser work; or, if needed, it may still be used as a bedroom for help.... SECOND STORY, (fig. 33).—Hight of ceiling, 8 feet. There is a hall, two chambers, two bedrooms, and two closets, in this story, and no waste room. The Hall is just large enough for convenience. The Chambers are of ample dimensions, with a chimney between them, admitting the use of stoves when required.... CONSTRUCTION.—The Foundations for the main house are of broken stone and mortar, showing three feet above ground, neatly pointed where exposed to sight. The Wing is supported on piers, as described in Design I. Girders (shown on the cellar-plan by dotted lines), supported on strong posts, carry the central portions of the building. The shortness of the spans between bearings allow very light floor-beams. It is, however, important that the beams should be _bridged_ to secure uniformity of strength, and prevent vibrations. The Frame is constructed in the usual manner—all the ties, girts, and headers being “framed in.” The inclosing is sufficiently indicated in the estimate. The front windows have semi-circular heads outside. In their construction the frames and sash are square, to admit ordinary curtain fixtures on the inside. The circular head is outside of, and “planted” on the flat casing, or “blind-strip,” and is made perfectly tight by a flange of tin. The additional expense of such circular finish is but trifling, compared with its good appearance. The side and rear windows have square heads, with rabbeted drips. Blinds are intended for all windows above the cellar. Ventilators are placed in each gable. The Porch has boxed pedestals and columns, scroll-sawed balusters, and circular spandrels. The inside walls and ceilings are “sand-finished” on two coats of brown mortar. The main stairs are constructed with a quarter circle, and winders at the top. These winders extend beyond the hall into the ceilings of the dining-room (as sketched), but do not interfere with its use, or seriously injure its appearance. The Bay-Window is neatly arched on the inside. Marble mantels are put in the parlor and dining-room, and shelves in the chambers. The second story-hall is lighted through the door (sash) of the front bedroom.... SUGGESTIONS.—This plan was arranged to suit a village lot 25 feet in width, leaving a passage-way at the side. This necessitated placing the wing at the rear of the main house. If there is more ground, the wing may be placed at the right of the main part, facing the road. The communications between the dining-room and wing would be still similar to those shown. The window at the right of the dining-room would be placed in the rear. These changes entail no extra expense, if determined on before commencing to build.—ESTIMATE cost of materials and labor for main house:

56 yards excavation, at 20c. per yard. $11.20
875 ft. stone-foundation, at 5c. per ft. 43.75
2,000 brick, furnished and laid, at $12 per M. 24.00
340 yards plastering, complete, at 25c. per yard. 85.00
1,126 ft. of timber, at $15 per M. 16.89
2 sills, 4 × 6 in. 24 ft. long.
2 sills, 4 × 6 in. 21 ft. long.
9 ties, 4 × 6 in. 24 ft. long.
4 ties, 4 × 6 in. 21 ft. long.
4 posts, 4 × 6 in. 19 ft. long.
2 plates, 4 × 6 in. 24 ft. long.
1 girder, 4 × 6 in. 21 ft. long.
22 beams, 3 × 6 in. 24 ft. long.
250 wall-strips, at 11c. each. 27.50
162 siding, 9 in., at 20c. each. 32.40
Cornice materials. 18.00
135 shingling-lath, at 5c. each. 6.75
8 rough planks, at 20c. each. 1.60
24 bunches shingles, at $1.25 per bunch. 30.00
112 flooring, 9 in., at 25c. 28.00
2 cellar windows, complete, at $4. 8.00
1 bay-window, complete. 40.00
5 plain windows, complete, at $12. 60.00
Stairs, complete, $40; 12 doors, complete, $96. 136.00
Mantels, $39.91; porch, $30; closets, $10. 79.91
Nails, $9; painting, $50; carting, $12. 71.00
Carpenter’s labor (not included above). 80.00
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Total cost of main house. $800.00
Add Design I.’s estimate for wing. 250.00
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Total for whole complete. 1,050.00

DESIGN IX.

COUNTRY OR VILLAGE COTTAGE, COSTING $1,000.

This plan is designed to answer many requests for a “cosey and homelike Cottage, suited to the wants of Mechanics and Laboring People, costing from $700 to $1,000.” It is best adapted to a westward frontage—with the hall, entrances, and porches protected from the north, but may be easily adapted to an opposite frontage by reversing the plan—placing the hall, etc., on the opposite side of the main house. The width, 21 feet, adapts it to a 25-foot village lot, leaving a side passage to the rear.... EXTERIOR, (figs. 34 and 35.)—The _style_ of any building is determined by the form of its roof; the steep and hooded style in this design accords fully with domestic feelings and artistic sentiments, and is growing in public favor for suburban structures. Compared with the usual _Mansard_ style is more practical, less expensive, and serves equally well. The side-angles, porches, bay-window, cornices, and chimneys, each of simple construction, make up a pleasing variety of parts. All superfluous ornamentation is avoided. A too common fault prevails in villages, and even in the country, of building close up to the street lines. A clear depth of at least 20 feet in front should be devoted to a flower-garden, shrubbery, and vines, for flowers are proper accessories of cottage adornment, and architectural ornamentation can never compensate for their absence.... CELLAR, (fig. 36.)—Hight of ceiling, 6½ feet. It extends under the front half of the building, giving an average area of 11½ × 15 feet—quite sufficient for ordinary requirements. It has two small front windows. A good ventilation may be had through the chimney; openings in the rear foundation allow a circulation of air over the unexcavated portion.... FIRST STORY, (fig. 37.)—Hight of ceiling, 9 feet; is divided into a hall, parlor, living-room, rear entry, and a closet. The Hall, entered from the front porch, connects through doors with the parlor, living-room, and rear entry, and contains the main stairs. The Parlor has a large bay-window in the front, opposite to which is a marble shelf resting on stucco trusses. It communicates with the living-room and hall. The remaining wall spaces are unbroken, for furniture and wall ornaments. The Living-room is a little larger than the parlor, has two windows, an open fireplace, a closet, and doors leading to the front hall, parlor, and rear entry. The rear entry is under the platform of the main stairs; is divided from the front hall, and is to be used as the common entrance. It has doors leading from the front hall, living-room, rear porch, and the cellar stairs. The parlor may be warmed by placing a radiator under the marble shelf, and passing the smoke-pipe from the living-room through it, as for Design III. The cost of such a radiator is $6.... SECOND STORY, (fig. 38.)—Hight of center ceilings, seven feet; hight of side-breast walls, 3½ feet. The stairs leading to this story are made with a platform, placed three risers below the upper landing, which allows for the required head-room. The divisions provide for four rooms, a hall, and two closets; the large chamber has a double window in front, a marble shelf on the chimney-breast, and a closet; the hall bedroom is designed to be used in connection with the large chamber as a child’s room.... CONSTRUCTION.—The excavation for the cellar is made four feet deep, and for the rear foundation walls one foot. The loose earth is graded around the foundation at completion, leaving 1½ feet of the foundation exposed to sight on the outside. The foundation walls are of broken stone, laid in common mortar, 16 inches thick, and neatly pointed where exposed to sight, and are generally even with the framework on the outside. Provision is made for the cellar stairway by extending the adjoining walls beyond the inside of the frame to the hight of the ground, and finishing above with brick-work. The chimney is started with the cellar walls, and arranged with two continuous flues to the top. Side-openings are made under the cap by inserting 6-inch earthen thimbles on each side of the flues. The top courses of brick-work are laid across the entire chimney, making a solid and more lasting cap. Sheet-iron thimbles are put in the chimneys adjoining the parlor and front chamber. The framing, inclosing, flooring, etc., are done in a substantial manner, of materials indicated in the estimate below. Beams placed two feet apart from centers; rafters and studding 16 inches apart. The cornice-trusses are made of 2 × 4-inch timber, as shown in Design VI., and the shingling and gutters in Design V. Sash, 1¼ inch thick, glazed with second quality of French sheet-glass, counter-checked, and hung to iron balance-weights, with good cord. Doors 4-paneled each, for the outside and rooms in first story, and 1½ inches thick; all others 1¼ inches thick, moulded, with double faces. The main stairs has a 7-inch octagon newel, a 2¼ × 4-inch moulded rail, and 2-inch turned balusters, all of black walnut. The side-walls and ceilings of the two full stories are white-sand finished, on one coat of “laid-off” brown mortar. This is the favorite mode of plastering through the Eastern States, while in the neighborhood of New York two coats of brown mortar are usually applied. Where one-coat work is properly done, more hair is mixed in the mortar, increasing its strength. The _same quantity_ of mortar is used as for two coats. The advantages claimed for the “one-coat work” are, a saving of one-third in labor, and obviating the delay for the additional coat to dry. All the wood-work usually painted, and the chimney-top, have two coats of best American lead and _raw_ linseed-oil. For more extended remarks on painting, see article with Design XII.

ESTIMATE of materials required, and total cost.

58 yards excavation, at 20c. per yard. $11.60
26 perches stone-work, complete, at $2.50. 65.00
2,000 bricks, furnished and laid, complete, at $12 per M. 24.00
360 yards plastering, complete, at 25c. 90.00
1,694 ft. timber, at $15 per M. 25.41
1 sill, 4 × 7 in. 26 ft. long.
3 sills, 4 × 7 in. 15 ft. long.
1 sill, 4 × 7 in. 23 ft. long.
8 posts, 4 × 7 in. 13 ft. long.
1 girt, 4 × 6 in. 15 ft. long.
3 ties, 4 × 6 in. 15 ft. long.
1 plate, 4 × 6 in. 26 ft. long.
1 plate, 4 × 6 in. 23 ft. long.
14 beams, 3 × 7 in. 21 ft. long.
13 beams, 3 × 7 in. 15 ft. long.
20 ceiling-strips, 1¼ × 5 in. 13 ft. long.
50 joists, 3 × 4 in. 13 ft. long, at 16c. each. 8.00
200 wall-strips, 2 × 4 in. 13 ft. long, at 13c. each. 26.00
130 siding-boards, at 23c. each. 29.90
160 shingling-lath, at 6c. each. 9.60
40 bunches shingles at $1.25. 50.00
12 spruce plank, at 20c. 2.40
Materials in cornices, $14; stoops, complete, $20. 34.00
95 flooring, at 18c. each. 17.10
2 cellar windows, complete, at $3 each. 6.00
2 single windows, complete, at $12 each. 24.00
3 double windows, complete, at $15 each. 45.00
15 doors, complete, at $9 each. 135.00
Closet, shelving, and nails. 20.00
Stairs, $50; bay-window, complete, $50. 100.00
Tin (gutters, valleys, and leaders). 11.00
2 marble shelves, $10; painting, $80; carting, $15. 105.00
Carpenter’s labor, not included above. 100.00
Incidentals, sink, pump, etc. 60.99
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Total cost. $1,000.00

DESIGN X.

A HOUSE COSTING $1,100.

This economical cottage has ample, convenient apartments for a medium-sized family, and is adapted to either a village or a more rural location. A 25 × 100-feet lot will contain such a house, besides the needed side alleyway to the rear. Those contemplating the erection of low-priced, tasteful cottages in duplication, either for selling, or by coöperation as in Building Associations, will find this plan suited to their wants.... EXTERIOR, (fig. 39).—The front presents a graceful, trim, outline, with a neat and pleasant arrangement of openings. The Porch fits in an angle, with its steps projecting beyond the principal building, providing an appropriate entrance to the house. The large Bay-window is the most imposing feature of the front, is expressive of comfort and cheerfulness, and gives a good appearance and character to the whole building. The principal cornices are neatly trussed, and have such “spread” as gives a finished and bold appearance to the roofs. It has such proportions and genteel style, that if near a more formidable or costly residence, it would not disgrace it.... CELLAR, (fig. 40.)—Hight 7 ft. Its outlines correspond with the ground-plans of the principal building; it is three feet below the general surface of the ground, and four feet above, and has an outside entrance door, three good sized cellar windows, two of which are in the front, and one at the side, contiguous to the coal-bin. It is accessible from the first story by a plain stairway. If desirable at any time, a pleasant basement room may be finished in the front part, at a small cost.... FIRST STORY, (fig. 41).—Hight of ceilings, 9½ feet. It is divided into three rooms of nearly equal size, with a Hall and two Closets. The Bay-window adds considerable to its area, making it the largest and pleasantest room. The Dining-room adjoins the parlor, and may be used with it as occasion requires by opening the folding doors. Each of these rooms has neat marble mantles, and opens into the front hall. The Kitchen connects with the dining-room, and is provided with a pantry, pump, sink, two windows, and an outside door leading to the rear yard. When houses are built on single village lots, it is usual to arrange for one “blank” side, as in this plan, but where more ground is allowed, it is desirable that openings should be made for at least one window in each story of this side, as they would add to the cheerfulness of the interior, and give a better appearance to the outside. Two windows are thus indicated by dotted lines, one for the dining-room, and one for the interior chamber, though the latter is lighted from the roof, as noted. It may be advisable even to put two other windows on this side of the house, for the outside general good appearance, or blind-windows may be put in at small expense, for the same purpose.... SECOND STORY, (fig. 42).—Ceilings 8 feet high. The divisions are very simple, making four rooms, three closets, a stairway, and passage leading to each room.... CONSTRUCTION.—Reference is had in this plan to what is known in the trade as “piece-lumber”—the joists, wall-strips, boards, etc., being generally in lengths of 13 feet each. There is great economy in being able to use such standard lumber, without cutting to waste. Figure 43 shows how a neat, cosey cottage-frame may be cheaply constructed almost wholly of such 13-feet materials. But there is a decided preference for full chamber ceilings, and as the difference in cost would not exceed $60, it is best to make the house _two full stories high_. The principal frame is of 3-inch timber, with studding of 2 × 3 inch. This thickness of the frame-work secures some 220 feet more interior space to the rooms, than in the use of 4-inch timber, besides saving one-fourth of its quantity and cost. Ordinary 1¼ × 10-inch spruce plank are used for the frame-work, for the floors and ceilings. For the beams they are reduced to the depth of eight inches, and the 2-inch strips sawed off are used for shingling-lath. For the ceiling-frame of the second story, they are simply sawed through the middle, leaving each half five inches deep, and are all placed 16 inches apart from centers. One row of cross-bridging is put through the center of each tier of beams, and the center of the ceiling-strips are secured by hangers from the rafters. The Rafters are 2 × 4 inches, framed to rest on the principal plates, where they are connected with the ceiling-strips by spikes, preventing any settling or spreading of the roof. The Roof of the main wing is constructed with double pitch, corresponding with that of the main roof. The principal roofs are finished with shingles, and has improved gutters, described in Design V. The porch and bay-window roofs are covered with tin laid on smooth boarding.—The _rake_ or _pitch_ of roofs has much to do in giving character and finish to buildings. For ordinary roofs, when shingles or slate are used, the rise should be _one-third_ the width of the building, as in this case, the rise is 4⅓ feet, for the width of 13 feet. This pitch is very pleasant to the eye, and easy of construction. In larger buildings, it is often desirable to secure more space or head-room in the attic, when the rise should be _one-half_ the width of the building. We would never go _between_ these two angles in search of a roof-line that would gratify good taste, or comport with any style, but deviations above one-half or below one-third may be made, as circumstances indicate.—Circular openings covered with blinds, in each gable, give free air circulation between the ceilings and roof. Every dwelling should have some way of readily reaching the roof from the inside to clean the gutters, repair the roof or chimneys, and in case of fire in the house or in the neighborhood. An opening is made in the ceiling of the middle chamber (fig. 42) over and just inside the door, and thence through the roof. This is neatly boarded around its sides, forming a “well,” and is covered at the top with a _sash_, sloping with the roof, hung so as to be easily opened and closed by a cord from the inside. This provides for light, ventilation, and a scuttle in combination. A sash, hung on center pins to revolve, over the door of this room, transmits light from the skylight to the second-story passage and stairway, and supplies ventilation.... The mason’s work is complete and substantial in every part. The foundation walls, piers, and chimneys, are of hard brick and mortar; the plastering is two coats of brown mortar and a hard finish.... HEATING.—Only two fires are required at any time to make the principal rooms of this house comfortable. The parlor, and chamber immediately above it, are warmed through a heater placed in a parlor fire-place. The dining-room has a radiator fitted in the opening of the mantel, and connected by 5-inch pipes through the fire-place back with the kitchen stove.

ESTIMATE of materials and cost:

40 yards excavation, at 20c. per yard. $ 8.00
12,000 brick, furnished and laid, at $12 per M. 144.00
32 ft. stone steps and coping, at 20c. per ft. 6.40
450 yards plastering, at 30c. per yard. 135.00
1,969 ft. of timber, at $15 per M. 29.53
1 sill, 4 × 8 in. 39 ft. long.
1 girt, 4 × 8 in. 13 ft. long.
1 plate, 3 × 4 in. 104 ft. long.
116 studding, 2 × 3 in. 10 ft. long.
6 posts, 3 × 8 in. 20 ft. long.
1 tie, 3 × 6 in 104 ft. long.
1 sill, 2 × 4 in. 91 ft. long.
153 studding, 2 × 3 in. 9 ft. long.
70 planks for beams and ceilings, at 25c. each. 17.50
55 rafters, 2 × 4 × 13, at 13c. each. 7.15
208 siding, 10 inch, at 26c. each. 54.08
100 lbs. tarred felting, at 3c. per lb. 3.00
Materials in cornices, water-table, and corner-boards. 20.00
165 shingling-lath, at 6c. each. 9.90
28 bunches shingles, at $1.50 per bunch. 42.00
200 ft. gutters, leaders and roofs, at 8c. per ft. 16.00
96 flooring, at 26c. each. 24.96
Stairs, complete, $40; porch and stoops, complete, $40. 80.00
Bay-window, complete. 60.00
8 windows, complete, at $10 each. 80.00
3 cellar windows, complete, at $6 each. 18.00
15 doors, complete, at $8 each. 120.00
Closets and shelving, $8; mantels, $30. 38.00
Pump and sink, $18; nails, $15. 33.00
Painting, $60; cartage, $13.48. 73.48
Carpenter’s labor, not included above. 80.00
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Total cost, complete. $1,100.00

DESIGN XI.

A HOUSE COSTING $1,600.

This plan is for a comfortable and genteel dwelling, suited to almost any location, and for the accommodation of an averaged-sized family. Upwards of twenty years’ experience in planning and building has taught me that it is not difficult to design either as to Style, Room, or Cost, when the owners have means sufficient to gratify their individual tastes, and no special care is required to save expense. But it is quite another matter to provide plans for the great mass of people who, through habit or necessity, put everything to the test of economy, and to whom every inch of room, or foot of material, is an important consideration. In designing and projecting such work, theories avail little; practical experience must then be the chief guide.... Conventional modes of living have established a system of household arrangement and economy requiring for every home of even moderate refinement, a house with a front hall, a parlor, a dining-room, and a kitchen on the first floor, and a liberal suite of chambers in a second story. Our plan herewith, though only 20 by 30 feet, provides for all the above. If built on an ordinary 25-feet village lot, it will allow a needed passage-way on one side. In rapidly filling up, crowded localities, four persons owning single lots, making a frontage of 100 feet, can arrange together and build five houses on this plan for about the cost of erecting four detached houses. The fifth house may be rented or sold for the benefit of the four owners. In such cases, a hall should be finished in the basement, with an entrance in front similar to the one shown in the rear in fig. 45.... The FRONT ELEVATION is made up of simple parts, in a neat arrangement. The Bay-window indicates refinement, and adds largely to the area or room of the parlor.... The CELLAR walls are of hard brick, are 8 inches thick, 7 feet high, and show at least 3 feet above ground. For health’s sake alone, as well as for a better appearance, and for convenience, if the basement should ever be desired finished off in rooms, which can be done at any time with little expense, it is best to always place the first floor well up from the ground. In very cold localities, frost can be kept out of the basement by banking up in winter, or better by laying the brick walls with an opening up through the center, extending bricks across the opening at frequent intervals to secure firmness. This central air-chamber promotes health, warmth, and dryness in the basement or cellar. One foot of the soil taken from the excavation for the cellar should be used in grading around the house, to secure the flow of water _away_ from it, and still leave the walls three feet or more above the ground.... FIRST STORY, (fig. 46).—Hight of ceiling, 9½ feet. The divisions embrace three rooms, a hall, and two closets. Double doors are provided for the front entrance, and between the parlor and dining-room, and marble mantles and shelves in the principal rooms. A movable “Dresser” having drawers and shelving with small doors, is indicated for the dining-room. This room may be heated by leading a pipe from the kitchen stove to a drum and back into the chimney, or up through the chamber above to warm that somewhat. A “Fireplace heater” in the parlor will warm the chamber above.... SECOND STORY, (fig. 47.)—The hight of the ceilings are 8½ feet. There are four chambers, with closets to each, and a small hall. The head-room over the main stairs extends beneath the closet to the inner edge of the shelf shown—the floor in these parts being angled to suit the pitch of the stairs.... REMARKS on construction.—An end section of the “Novelty siding” is shown in fig. 48. This is of 10-inch boards, 1 inch thick, cut as shown in the engraving. The groove in the center gives it the appearance of narrow clapboards; the lap of about an inch closes tightly, and the thick boards not only add to the warmth, but also to the strength. A house covered with this will vibrate very little in the most windy situations, and be firmer than one covered with thin siding having much heavier timber. Where planing mills are accessible, it is little more expensive than the dressed half-inch boarding, and the appearance is quite as pretty. In this vicinity it is customary to purchase a lot of pretty good quality merchantable pine boards, select the best and clearest of knots for siding, and use the rest for flooring where knots are not objectionable when to be covered with carpeting. The smaller and firm knots in the siding used, are readily covered with paint, if first primed with a little solution of shellac in alcohol. A section of the wall is shown in fig. 49. The studding, 2 × 4, makes a space of four inches between the siding and plastering. Tarred paper, or what is termed roofing-felt, is procured in rolls 32 inches wide. A saw run through the roll cuts it into 16-inch strips. The studs being set 16 inches apart from center to center, leaves the clear space of 14 inches. The strips of felt are turned up an inch on each edge, and these turned edges are held against the studs by lath firmly up and down, so as to hold the sheets midway between the plastering and siding. This leaves _two_ air-chambers, both good non-conductors of heat. Mice or insects will not eat or go through this material. It is impervious to currents of air, and the whole is as warm as if filled in with brick. The cost is very small, and, as will be readily seen, it is much warmer than when the felt is put on directly under the boards, leaving only one air-chamber, and that a wide one.... In all house-plans, we advise putting in all the closets possible; they are always convenient, even a foot square “cubby-hole” in the side of a chimney is a handy place. In planning a house, after making the size as large as one’s means will allow, the “better half” should be consulted as to the advisability of making this or that room a little smaller by cutting off a few inches here and there to enlarge a pantry or closet.... We always advise to put in an extra bell or two, and one or more speaking-tubes, to connect the upper and lower rooms. The cost is but trifling, if they are put in when building. A hundred feet of speaking-tube will cost but $2 or $3; the carpenter can insert it behind the lath, running it from one room to another in a few minutes, and it will save many steps, and much calling through the halls, especially when the mother happens to be an invalid, and restrained to a chamber.... In arranging sink, table, dish-pantry, etc., with reference to dining-room and kitchen, always plan to save steps. A distance of 10 feet extra, traveled over each way, say 20 times a day, in handling food and dishes, amounts to 28 miles extra walking every year, all of which may be saved by a slight change in arrangement. These are small matters, but these have much to do in making a “convenient house.”

COST.—The following ESTIMATES of cost in detail will give an idea of the general character of the work. The prices given are for materials in the vicinity of New York. Carpenters wages are reckoned at $2 per day; mason’s work, $2.50 per day; and painters, $3 per day:

Excavation, 2½ ft. deep, at 20c. per yard. $11.00
12,000 hard brick, furnished and laid, at $12 per M. 144.00
28 ft. stone steps, at 40c. per ft. 11.20
16 ft. stone sills, at 30c. per ft. 4.80
488 yards lath and plastering, at 30c. 144.90
2,000 ft. timber, at $15 per M. 30.00
2 sills, 4 × 7 in. 20 ft. long.
2 sills, 4 × 7 in. 30 ft. long.
4 posts, 4 × 7 in. 20 ft. long.
2 plates, 4 × 6 in. 20 ft. long.
2 plates, 4 × 6 in. 30 ft. long.
2 ties, 4 × 6 in. 26 ft. long.
2 ties, 4 × 6 in. 30 ft. long.
2 girders, 4 × 8 in. 15 ft. long.
2 stringers, 3 × 8 in. 20 ft. long.
30 beams, 3 × 8 in. 20 ft. long.
32 rafters, 3 × 4 in. 12 feet long, at 18c. 5.76
300 wall-strips, 2 × 4 in. 13 ft. long, at 11c. 33.00
200 novelty siding-boards, 9½ in., at 30c. 60.00
160 lbs. tarred paper, at 5c. 8.00
100 hemlock boards, 10 in., at 18c. 18.00
100 ft. main cornice, at 40c. 40.00
1 bay-window, complete, with blinds, labor included. 60.00
1½ stoops, complete, labor included. 70.00
8 windows, with blinds, at $16. 128.00
4 windows, with blinds, at $8. 32.00
8½ squares of tin roofing, at $7. 59.50
100 ft. gutters and leaders, at 10c. 10.00
150 flooring-plank, tongued and grooved, at 28c. 42.00
Stairs, main and cellar, $60; base-boards, shelving,
etc. $30. 90.00
4 mantels (1 full marble, and 3 marble shelves on
trusses of plaster). 50.00
21 doors, complete, labor included, $158; 350 lbs. nails,
at 5c., $17.50. 175.50
Painting, two coats. 80.00
Carpenter’s labor, not included in windows, doors,
and porches, about $200.00; cartage, average
one mile, $30.00. 230.00
Allow for extras, cistern, pump, sink, etc., etc. 62.34
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Total. $1,600.00

Prices vary in different localities, somewhat, but when higher in some particulars, they will generally be lower in others, so that the whole cost will not be greatly different over a considerable extent of country. There are many items that can be cut down in the above estimate, where great economy is needful. For example, substitute wood for stone steps and sills; omit the blinds and bay-windows, use cheaper doors, pine-stair railing and newel, instead of walnut, etc. Our estimate is for a pretty, complete, tasteful house.

DESIGN XII.

A HOUSE COSTING $1,700.

The plans here given are similar in many respects to Design XI., and are somewhat larger, but can be built for very nearly the same cost.... ELEVATION, (fig. 50).—The front is irregular, having an angle, which narrows the parts, supplies more vertical lines, and adds to their length comparatively. These are important features, imparting a graceful appearance, and influencing the entire character of the house.... The angle affords ample room for the piazza, which can be built for much less cost than when its three sides are exposed. The next attractive features of the front are the bay-windows below, and double windows above, with the balustrade and hood so proportioned and arranged that they conform with each other with pleasing effect.... CELLAR, (fig. 51).—The Foundation Walls are of hard brick laid in mortar, 8 inches thick, and 7 feet high. In localities where the foundation rests on loose sand, care should be taken to provide a bedding, laid 4 inches below the cellar bottom, 16 inches wide, of brick, or better, of large flat stones. Still greater care should be bestowed on the bedding for the chimneys and girder supports, for they sustain the greatest proportionate weight, and any settlement of these parts will cause a depression of the floors, disarranging the whole house, and become an immediate and continuous source of anxiety and expense. The Area in the rear is built of hard brick and mortar, with blue-stone steps and coping. Blue-stone sills are provided for each of the cellar windows.... FIRST STORY, (fig. 52.)—The interior arrangement of the plan will be appreciated as making the best possible use of the room. The Front Hall is wider than is usual in houses of this character. The Stairs are arranged with the “quarter circle” about midway of their hight, which brings the niche down where it becomes an important feature of the hall. The three principal rooms, the parlor, dining-room, and kitchen, can be entered from the hall. The latter two rooms have doors leading to the lobby. The Lobby is built of 4½-inch tongued and grooved ceiling-boards, with sashes made to swing. A Shelf, 1½ feet high, and another just above the sash, give sufficient frame-work to fasten the center of the boarding; the ends are nailed to the sill and plate; these shelves will be found useful for many purposes. Attached to the lobby, and built with it, is a good-sized Pantry (_P_), for the dining-room. The Kitchen is provided with a closet at the side of the chimney, a sink, with small closet underneath, and a direct communication to the cellar stairs under the hall stairs. The window in the side of the dining-room may be omitted, if the house is in a village and joins another, but this is desirable to give abundant light in this, which is really the living-room of the family.—The method of heating indicated in Design XI. is applicable to this plan.... SECOND STORY, (fig. 53.)—The peculiar manner of constructing the Stairs brings their landing nearly in the center, so that hall space sufficient only for four doors is necessary, leaving almost the entire floor to be laid off into rooms. The heavy lines show the most simple method of dividing this story into four rooms. Should another room be desirable, it can be taken off from two rooms, as shown by the dotted lines. In this case, another window may be inserted as indicated. Every one’s experience will suggest that there can not be too many closets, and we have added one to every room in the house, except the parlor.... CONSTRUCTION.—The bill of timber appended indicates a “regular” _Frame_. It is a great satisfaction and saving to have the timber properly “laid out,” and framed by, and under the immediate direction of a master mechanic, so as to be quickly and substantially raised. Four good carpenters would easily frame all the timber in this house in two days, and raise it the next day. At least one man of well-known ability and experience as a mechanic should be with and take charge of those employed to build a house. It is not economical for one about to build a _home_ to trust such work to the caprice of an inexperienced man, who has “helped” around some job, until he has learned the name of tools, but who has no positive knowledge of the trade, and could not for his life “lay out” the corner-post for a two-story house, yet is shrewd enough to screen his deficiencies by suggesting “balloon,” or something indefinite, that requires little or no skill. It sometimes happens, in localities remote from large cities or large towns, that persons are obliged to do with make-shifts, to get a home at all. It was such a condition of things that led the well-disposed pioneer of the West to adopt the method called “Balloon framing,” which is really no framing at all, and required no skill to get up a kind of home acceptable under such circumstances. But wherever skilled labor may be had, it is ridiculous to see a gang of intelligent(?) mechanics standing up pieces of diverse lengths, and propping them in a vertical position with rods running every way as braces, not one of which can be removed until the upper ends are secured by ties of some sort. A good frame in a house is equivalent to a good constitution in a man, and is of vital importance; it need not be clumsy or overloaded, but should at least have the merit of being able to stand alone.... PAINTING.—The principal object in Painting should be to protect and preserve the materials used in construction, as also to give a good appearance. All exterior wood-work, though executed with the greatest care and in the most substantial manner, if left exposed to climatic influences, is very soon destroyed. It is economy to use only the _best lead_ and _linseed-oil_ in painting exterior wood-work. They will outlast all other compounds, present a better appearance, and in the end furnish a much better foundation for future painting. The difference in cost between the best materials and the imitations, for painting the exterior of a house built on these plans, would not exceed $12, and the cost of labor would be just the same in either case. The first coat or “priming,” should be put on with the greatest care, so as to thoroughly cover and close all the pores in the exposed surface. All window and outside door frames, corner-boards, window-caps, water-table, and stoop-flooring, should be primed _before_ setting, especially their edges, where joinings require to be made, as it will be the last opportunity to do justice to these parts, where moisture is liable to collect and remain. When priming is well done, it is best to let the building stand until thoroughly dried, both inside and out, before adding the second coat. It must be evident to any one that much of the water used in the plastering must percolate through, and thoroughly saturate every part of a house. Sufficient time should be allowed for this moisture to pass off, and the whole house to become dried out.... The nails should then be “set,” which will tighten up permanently all the laps in the siding, after which the work should be properly puttied, and the second coat applied. Autumn is the best season to paint, after the extreme heat has passed, and insects have disappeared; the process of drying will be slower and more perfect, with less waste by evaporation, leaving a smooth, solid surface. I am often asked “_what color to paint?_” Notwithstanding much has been said against white for outside painting, and realizing that there are many cases where white would not be suitable, or thought of, yet I believe that for suitability and good taste, in nine cases out of ten, very light colors, or pure white, are indicated. I have known instances where much time has been spent to discover a suitable color for a house, where nearly all the different pigments were drawn from, and after much mixing and testing, the result has generally been an unknown and unnamed shade, as if everything depended on some sentimental “blending with the background,” or in other words, painting the house out of sight. As a rule, paint so as to best reveal the true character of the building, and this is best done when the colors afford the foundation for the natural shadows that result from the true and actual projections. For the body and trimmings are suggested a light “Dorchester” gray; roofs, graphite-black; sash, coach-black; blinds, “chocolate.”

COST.—The following items, prepared with care, embrace the full bill of materials and labor required in the construction of this house, together with their present cost in the vicinity of New York:

57 yards excavation, at 20c. per yard. $11.40
13,000 brick, furnished and laid, at $12 per M. 156.00
500 yards lath and plastering, at 30c. per yard. 150.00
28 ft. stone steps and coping, at 40c. per ft. 11.20
16 ft. stone sills, at 30c. per ft. 4.80
2,370 ft. of timber, at $15 per M. 35.55
2 sills, 4 × 7 in. 30 ft. long.
2 sills, 4 × 7 in. 22 ft. long.
1 girt, 4 × 8 in. 16 ft. long.
1 girt, 4 × 8 in. 8 ft. long.
26 beams, 3 × 7 in. 22 ft. long.
6 beams, 3 × 7 in. 15 ft. long.
6 posts, 4 × 7 in. 20 ft. long.
2 ties, 4 × 6 in. 30 ft. long.
2 ties, 4 × 6 in. 22 ft. long.
2 plates, 4 × 6 in. 30 ft. long.
2 plates, 4 × 6 in. 22 ft. long.
8 pieces, 3 × 7 in. 16 ft. long.
400 wall strips, 2 × 4 in. 13 ft. long, at 11c. each. 44.00
200 novelty siding boards, 9½ in., at 30c. each. 60.00
160 lbs. tarred paper, at 5c. per lb. 8.00
128 tongued and grooved flooring, 9½ in., at 35c. each. 44.80
110 hemlock boards, at 18c. each. 19.80
9½ squares of tin roofing, at $7 per square. 66.50
120 ft. cornice, at 30c. per ft. 36.00
111 ft. gutter and leader, at 10c. per ft. 11.10
1 bay-window, with blinds, complete. 60.00
Materials in stoop, lobby, balcony, hood, and
corner-boards. 78.00
8 windows, with blinds, complete, at $16 each. 128.00
4 cellar windows, complete, at $4 each. 16.00
24 doors, complete, at $8 each. 192.00
2 stairs, complete. 60.00
2 marble mantels and 4 pine mantels. 75.00
Base-boards and shelving. 25.00
Nails, sink, and pump. 34.00
Cartage, average one mile. 30.00
Carpenter’s labor (not included above). 200.00
Painting, two coats. 80.00
Extra for girder supports, grading, etc. 62.85
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Total cost of materials and construction. $1,700.00

DESIGN XIII.

FRENCH-ROOFED COTTAGE, COSTING $2,000.

These plans were designed for a genteel cottage adapted to thickly-settled localities, where the increased value of lands make it necessary to reduce the area, and build upwards. Several houses constructed from these plans in this vicinity are admired for their convenient accommodation and cheerfulness.... EXTERIOR, (fig. 54.)—The Foundation extends four feet above ground, giving a desirable altitude to the whole building. The front is enlivened by the numerous window and door openings, the several projections of piazza, dormers, and cornices, and the variety of the materials used. The dressing of the several parts are of simple designs. The projections of cornices, etc., should always be self-sustaining, yet while this is true, there is sure to be a fancied necessity for some apparent support obvious from the outside. Such supports require special treatment, with a view to their proper form and proportion, and should be sparingly applied, giving to each one its distinct place and purpose. Brackets of neat pattern are often crowded so closely together as to cheapen and destroy their beauty, and overload the cornice, thus reversing their legitimate purpose as supports.... CELLAR, (fig. 55.)—Hight of ceiling 7 feet; it extends under the main house only. Its hight above the ground gives an opportunity for good-sized window openings. If desired at any time, an airy and light work-room or laundry can be made by dividing and flooring a part of this story at little cost.... FIRST STORY, (fig. 56).—Hight of ceiling 10 feet. It has a hall running through the whole length of the main house, with entrances from both front and rear. The parlor, dining-room, and kitchen, are all good-sized apartments, and pleasantly arranged. Double folding doors are provided for the front entrances and from the hall to the parlor, and sliding doors between the parlor and dining-room. A bay-window adds materially to the size and pleasantness of the dining or living-room. Each room has an open fire-place; the kitchen has a pump and sink, with the usual supply and waste pipe connections. The rear stoop is roofed, and has a portable enclosure of light ceiling boards, to be used in severe weather.... SECOND STORY, (fig. 57.)—Hight of ceiling 8½ feet. The divisions of this story are simple—giving a hall, two large chambers, with passage between, two hall rooms, and two closets.... CONSTRUCTION.—The estimate given provides for foundation of broken stone, laid and neatly pointed with good mortar; the stone exposed to sight on the outside to be “semi-dressed.” Blue-stone, or other suitable stone obtained most readily, are used for the sills of cellar windows, for the steps, and wall coping of the cellar entrance. The principal timber is of seasoned spruce or pine, thoroughly framed, raised, and secured. The “framing-in” of braces is too frequently omitted—cutting them “barefoot,” and spiking, being substituted. The latter does very well where the frame is strongly sheathed over, and the outer siding applied afterwards. The sheathing aids largely in stiffening the frame, but should not be relied on to the exclusion of the necessary braces to square up the frame, and prevent the swaying which often happens unobserved, to be discovered when too late to remedy it. Laxity in the matter of bracing has led to frequent errors as to their proper place in the frame. When framed in they are invariably placed in the _upper angles_ under the ties and plates, adjoining the posts, and when barefoot they should be put in the same angles; never, as is frequently done for convenience, in the lower angles, nor on the sills. A moment’s reflection will convince any one that _if the right angles along the principal frame are rigidly maintained, displacements will never occur_, except, as rarely happens, the whole is bodily raised from the foundation by a hurricane. The most _reliable_ angles are those formed by the tie and post connections, because at these points the posts are tenoned and mortised together, and secured with hard wood pins. Those least reliable are at the foot of the posts, adjoining the sills, where their connections are secured only by the weight of the upper frame. Braces placed in the latter angles serve only as fulcrums to endanger the frames when tested by ordinary winds; but if the former or _upper_ angles are made positive, by having substantial braces in them, the severest gales may be defied. The siding is of narrow, clear pine clapboards, laid on “thicknessed” sheathing. The Mansard part of the main roof is covered by 8 × 16-inch slate—the piazza, bay-window, kitchen, stoop, cornices, window, and deck roof with IC. charcoal tin—all laid on hemlock boards. Tarred felting is spread under all siding and slate. The first and second stories are fully completed inside; the attic is floored, but otherwise unfinished, but may be divided at any time into rooms as shown for the second story (fig. 57). The interior plastering is three-coat work, on seasoned lath. All sash are four lights, and hung to balance-weights. Blinds are properly hung (outside) to each window. All wood, tin, and brick-work, usually painted, has two coats of best lead and oil-paint, with stainers to suit the owner’s taste. The choice of colors for the exterior is frequently canvassed during the construction of these buildings; often some person of _taste_ (?) decides by “warming”—adding red and yellow, until, by the preponderance of these stainers, the most sombre and dismal colors are produced. The most appropriate and pleasing shade for the body of this class of house is a _light gray_; for the trimmings, _dark gray_; for the sash, _burnt sienna_; for the blinds, _chocolate_. The tin roofing should match the _slate_ in color. Red colors should be sparingly used, or omitted altogether.

ESTIMATE of materials required, and total cost:

50 yards excavation, at 25c. per yard. $12.50
975 ft. of stone foundation, at 8c. per ft. 78.00
45 ft. blue-stone sills, steps, and coping, at 30c. per ft. 13.50
4,000 bricks, furnished and laid, at $12 per M. 48.00
480 yards plastering, at 30c. per yard. 144.00
Cornices and centers, stucco. 30.00
4,000 ft. of timber, at $15 per M. 60.00
2 sills, 4 × 8 in. 29 ft. long.
2 sills, 4 × 8 in. 21 ft. long.
1 sill, 4 × 8 in. 16 ft. long.
2 sills, 4 × 8 in. 13 ft. long.
1 girt, 4 × 8 in. 29 ft. long.
6 posts, 4 × 7 in. 22 ft. long.
6 ties, 4 × 6 in. 29 ft. long.
6 ties, 4 × 6 in. 21 ft. long.
2 plates, 4 × 6 in. 13 ft. long.
1 plate, 4 × 6 in. 16 ft. long.
2 posts, 4 × 6 in. 13 ft. long.
30 beams, 3 × 8 in. 21 ft. long.
15 beams, 3 × 7 in. 21 ft. long.
7 beams, 3 × 8 in. 16 ft. long.
2 decks, 3 × 8 in. 18 ft. long.
2 decks, 3 × 8 in. 26 ft. long.
1 cross-tie, 3 × 8 in. 18 ft. long.
4 hips, 3 × 7 in. 14 ft. long.
2 piazzas, 3 × 7 in. 19 ft. long.
2 piazzas, 3 × 7 in. 18 ft. long.
325 wall-strips, at 12c. each, $39; 75 joists, at 16c. each,
$12. 51.00
210 hemlock boards, at 12c. each, $25.20; cornice materials,
$60. 85.20
215 sheathing, at 16c. each, $34.40; 560 pine siding, at 12c.
each, $67.20. 101.60
8 squares slate, at $8.50 per square. 68.00
13 squares tin, at $7.50 per square. 97.50
65 ft. leaders, at 10c. per ft., $6.50; 260 flooring, at
18c. each, $46.80. 53.30
Piazza and stoop, complete, $80 and $28. 108.00
4 cellar windows, complete, at $4 each. 16.00
5 plain windows, complete, at $12 each. 60.00
6 plain windows, complete, at $10 each, $60; 1 bay
window, $60. 120.00
5 dormer windows, complete, at $16 each. 80.00
13 doors, complete, at $10 each. 130.00
1 area door, $5; stairs, $90; closets, pump, and sink, $50. 145.00
Mantle, $52; tarred felting, $10. 62.00
Carpenter’s labor, not included above. 135.00
Carting, average 1 mile, $30; painting, $130;
incidentals, $141.40. 301.40
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Total cost, complete. $2,000.00

DESIGN XIV.

A FRENCH-ROOFED COTTAGE COSTING $2,000.