Chapter VI: Part 6

Good beef should be fine grained in texture, bright red in color and well coated and marked with fat. Roasting methods suit the tender cuts. A standing roast is one with the ribs left in. A rolled roast is one with the ribs removed and the meat rolled and tied. In roasting meats remember two things. First, try to keep all the juices in the meat; secondly, you want the tissues to grow tender.

Remove meat immediately from the paper when it comes from the market and place it in the ice box or a cool place on a china or enamel plate. Meat should not be washed, but wiped with a clean, damp cloth before cooking. The tough cuts of meat should be cooked very slowly and for a long time. The tender cuts rare, medium, or well done in a hot oven for a short time only. Do not pierce the meat with a fork when it is cooking, as this allows the juice to run out of it. Baste meat often while roasting so as not to have it too dry.

ROAST BEEF

4 lb prime rib beef, boned and rolled (sirloin, porterhouse,
delmonico or tenderloin cuts), ¼ c fat, 1 tsp salt, ¼ c flour.

Clean beef well by wiping it with a damp cloth; spread with fat; dredge with flour mixed with salt; place on rack of a roaster; place roaster or pan, uncovered, in very hot oven for 20 min to sear meat; salt meat and reduce temp a little; bake 12 min to each pound for rare roast; 15 min to each pound for medium roast, or 18 min to each pound for a well done roast.

ROASTING CHEAP CUTS

4 lb beef (shoulder clod, chuck ribs, boned and rolled, inner
rump, top sirloin or round), ¼ c fat, 1 tsp salt, ¼ c flour, 2 c
water.

Only tender cuts of beef should be roasted in an uncovered pan. Shoulder clod of beef, chuck ribs, inner rump or top sirloin are best when roasted in the presence of steam in a covered pan. Place the larded, dredged meat on rack of roaster; sear uncovered in a very hot oven for 20 min; add enough water to cover bottom of roaster, but not enough to reach to level of meat or rack; cover roaster with lid-valve open and bake in moderate oven 35 min per pound. If roast is large roast in a slow oven. Tough meats have to be cooked well done in the presence of steam in order to be tender. Moist heat changes the tough connective tissue to a gelatinous substance which is tender.

POT ROAST

Brown the roast in a little fat to sear and to develop flavor; place in a pot or casserole with a closely fitting cover; add 1 c water and cook until tender (2 to 3 hr), adding more water if necessary. The roast may be cooked either on top of the stove or in the oven. Vegetables, such as carrots, turnips or onions, may be added at the beginning of the cooking; tomato juice may be used for the liquid added, and potatoes may be added about 30 min before the roast is done.

SMOTHERED BEEF

3 lb beef suitable for pot roast, 2 tbp flour mixed with 1 tsp
salt and a few grains of pepper, 3 large onions sliced, 3 tbp oil
or drippings, 1 tbp mustard, 1 tsp celery seed, 1 c strained
tomatoes, 2 tsp salt, 1 tbp Worcestershire sauce.

Dredge the meat with the flour and brown it in a heavy iron pan; fry the onions in the oil and add the other ingredients; pour this sauce over the meat and simmer 3 hr or more. Cold roast meat, fowl or chicken giblets may be very attractively prepared in a similar manner.

COTTAGE PIE

Grease bottom of small baking dish and cover with hot mashed potato; add a thick slice of roast beef, cut in small pieces, seasoned with salt, pepper, a little onion juice, and moistened with some of the gravy; cover with a thin layer of mashed potato; bake in hot oven long enough to heat through. This is a good way to use left-over roast beef or hamburg. Grated onion can be used instead of onion juice.

MOCK DUCK

On a round steak, place a stuffing made as below; roll steak up around the stuffing, fasten with wooden toothpicks or tying with a string; brown the outside quickly to develop flavor; add a cup of hot water, meat stock or tomato juice and cover; cook slowly until tender.

MOCK DUCK STUFFING

2 c cornbread crumbs, 1 c bread crumbs, 1 onion, minced, 1 tbp
chopped parsley, ¼ c fat, ¾ c milk or water, or stock to soften.

SWISS STEAK

2 lb beef round, ½ c flour, ½ tsp salt, ⅓ tsp pepper, 1 small
onion, chopped, 2 tbp shortening, ¼ c chopped green pepper, 1 c
stewed or canned tomatoes, 1 c boiling water.

Wipe meat with a clean damp cloth; cut in 2″ square pieces; mix flour, salt and pepper together; pound flour into the meat with a wooden potato masher; brown onion and meat in the shortening; add green pepper, tomatoes and water; cover and cook slowly 2 hr, or until meat is tender. The stock may be thickened more with a little flour mixed to a smooth paste with cold water.

BEEFSTEAK PIES

2 lb chuck steak, 1 tsp salt, ⅛ tsp pepper, 2 tbp flour, 3
tbp cold water, 1 c cooked carrots, cut in cubes, 2 c cooked
potatoes, cut in cubes, 1 c cooked celery, cut in pieces, 6
cooked medium-sized onions, 2 tbp shortening.

Wipe meat with a clean damp cloth; cut in 1″ cubes and sprinkle with salt and pepper; cover meat with boiling water and simmer for 1 hr or until meat is tender; put the meat in a baking dish; thicken the stock with the flour mixed to a paste with the water; add carrots, potatoes, celery and onions; pour the gravy over it and dot with shortening; add more seasoning if necessary; cover top with plain pastry; bake in a quick oven 10 min; reduce heat to a moderate oven; bake 20 to 25 min.

HAMBURG BALLS

1 lb round steak, ground, 2 eggs, ⅔ c soft bread crumbs, 1 tsp
salt, ⅛ tsp pepper, ⅓ c milk, 2 tbp chopped onion, 1 tbp butter,
1½ tsp flour, 1½ c boiling water.

Mix meat, beaten eggs, bread crumbs, salt, pepper and milk together; fry onion in grease until a delicate brown and add to the meat mixture; form in small flat circular cakes and sprinkle with flour; fry on both sides in a small amount of grease until brown; remove the cakes to a hot platter; add flour to the grease in the pan and cook until a delicate brown, stirring constantly; add water and bring to the boiling point, mixing well; pour around the meat balls.

PLANKED SIRLOIN STEAK

Wipe a sirloin steak, cut 2″ thick; remove flank end and pan broil 10 min, seasoning with salt after first 5 min of cooking; place a border of mashed potatoes around edge of slightly buttered plank and make 8 nests of mashed potatoes; place steak on plank and put in oven to brown potatoes and finish cooking steak. Fill potato nests with canned peas, reheated and seasoned, and arrange equal distances piles of buttered carrot cubes and stuffed tomatoes; spread steak with butter; fit plank into nickel frame and serve.

GOULASH FOR FOUR

Slice and chop small 1 large or 2 medium-sized onions; heat 2 heaping tbp fine lard, in which brown the onions to a deep golden color; then add a level tsp of Hungarian paprika, a tsp of salt and 2 lb of lean sirloin or good round steak that has previously been cut in about inch cubes; let meat simmer, under cover, for a few minutes, being careful to stir often to avoid burning; then add sufficient water to cover it well, and let boil. In the meantime peel and cut in good-sized cubes 6 or 7 large potatoes, to be added when meat is fairly done; fill again up with water to cover about ½″ to 1″ and let boil; season again according to taste. Potatoes and meat should be done about the same time, and the gravy have assumed the consistency of cream.

HOMINY MEAT CAKES

2 c cooked hominy grits, ½ c cooked meat, 1 tbp minced onion,
salt, pepper, milk or stock to moisten if necessary.

Form into cakes, brown in fat or brush with melted fat and brown in the oven.

CREAMED DRIED BEEF

¼ lb dried beef, 1 c medium white sauce.

Remove skin and separate meat into small pieces; cover with lukewarm water; let stand 10 min and drain; add white sauce and cook in db 10 min.

MEAT MOUSSE

1 c cooked meat, minced, 1 tbp gelatin, 1¼ c clear stock, 2
mushrooms, minced and sauteed, ¼ tsp pepper, ½ c evaporated milk,
½ c cream, 1 tsp salt.

Chicken, ham or sweetbreads may be used; chop meat very fine; soak the gelatin in the stock; heat stock until gelatin dissolves; then add meat, mushrooms and seasonings; cool, stirring occasionally. When it begins to stiffen fold in the evaporated milk and cream, which has been chilled and beaten stiff; pour mixture into molds and chill at least 2 hr.

CORNED BEEF HASH

Remove skin and gristle from cooked corn beef, then chop the meat. When meat is very fat, discard most of the fat. To 2 cups chopped meat add an equal quantity of cold boiled chopped potatoes; season with salt and pepper; moisten with milk or cream; put into a hot buttered frying pan, stir until well mixed, spread evenly, then place on a part of the range where it may slowly brown underneath, the time required being 40 to 45 min; turn and fold on a hot platter; garnish with spring of parsley in the middle.

CREAM DRIED BEEF (2)

¼ lb smoked dried beef, thinly sliced, 1 c scalded cream, 1½ tbp
flour.

Remove skin and separate meat in pieces, cover with hot water, let stand 10 min and drain; dilute flour with enough cold water to pour easily, making smooth paste; add to cream, and cook in db 10 min; add beef, and repeat.

BEEFSTEAK A LA HENRIETTA

½ c butter, yolks 3 eggs, 1 tbp cold water, ½ tbp lemon juice,
¼ tsp salt, 2 tbp tomato puree, 1 tbp Worcestershire sauce, ½
finely chopped parsley, few grains cayenne.

Wash butter and divide in 3 pieces; put 1 piece in saucepan with yolks of eggs slightly beaten and mixed with water and lemon juice; then add tomato, parsley and seasonings; pour ½ sauce on a serving dish, lay a broiled porterhouse steak on sauce, and cover steak with remaining sauce; garnish with parsley.

MEXICAN BEEF SAUCE

Reheat cold roast beef cut in thin slices; cook 1 onion, finely chopped, in 2 tbp butter 5 min; add 1 red pepper, 1 green pepper, and 1 clove of garlic, each finely chopped, and 2 tomatoes peeled and cut in pieces; cook 15 min; add 1 tsp Worcestershire sauce, ¼ tsp celery salt, and salt to taste.

CORNED BEEF

Corned beef gives variety to the diet. The best pieces are the rattle rand and fancy brisket. The fancy brisket commands a higher price and may be easily told from the rattle rand by the selvage on lower side and the absence of bones. The upper end of brisket (butt end) is thick and composed mostly of lean meat, the middle cut has more fat, but is not well mixed, while the lower (navel end) has a large quantity of fat.

=To Boil=: Wipe the meat, tie securely in shape, if this has not been already done at market; put in kettle, cover with cold water, and bring slowly to boiling point; boil 5 min, remove scum and cook at a lower temperature until tender; cool slightly in water in which it was cooked, remove to a dish, cover, and place on cover a weight, that meat may be well pressed. The lean meat and fat may be separated and put in alternate layers in a bread pan, then covered and pressed.

BOILED TONGUE

A boiled corned tongue is cooked the same as Boiled Corned Beef. If salty, it should be soaked in cold water several hours, or over night, before cooking; take from water when slightly cooled and remove skin.

ROAST BEEF GRAVY

Leave 4 tbp of fat in pan; place on front of range; add 5 tbp flour; stir until well browned; the flour, dredged and browned in pan, should give additional color to gravy; add gradually 1½ c boiling water; cook 5 min, season with salt and pepper and strain.

TO CARVE A ROAST

Have roast placed on platter, skin side up; with a pointed, thin-bladed sharp knife cut a sirloin or rib roast in thin slices at right angles to the ribs, and cut slices from ribs. If there is tenderloin, remove it from under the bone, and cut in thin slices across grain of meat; carve back of rump in thin slices with the grain of meat; by so doing, some of the least tender muscle will be served with that which is tender; by cutting across grain of meat, the tenderest portion is sliced by itself, as is the less tender portion.

STEWS

Stews made of meat and vegetables offer a great variety of dishes, good in themselves and good also because they encourage the eating of bread. The meat used should, of course, be in good condition, but need not be from a tender cut. The lower-priced cuts may be used with good results, provided they are made tender by long, slow cooking. Any vegetable may be added, including the tougher parts of lettuce and the leaves of celery. Rice, barley, macaroni, or even crusts of stale bread may be used in the stew to give variety. A stew containing a little meat, with one or more vegetables and a cereal, comes near to supplying all the needed foods other than milk.

MEAT STEW

2 lb of one of the cheaper cuts of beef, ⅔ c each of turnips
and carrots, cut into ½″ cubes, 4 c of potatoes, cut into small
pieces, ½ onion, chopped, ¼ c of flour, salt.

Cut the meat into small pieces, cover with boiling water, boil for 5 min, and then cook at a lower temp until the meat is tender. This will require about 3 hr on the stove or 5 hr in the fireless cooker; add the carrots, turnips and onions and salt during the last hour of cooking, and the potatoes 20 min before serving; thicken with the flour diluted with cold water. If the dish is made in the fireless cooker, the mixture must be reheated when the vegetables are put in. If foods depended on for vitamins are scarce, cook the vegetables separately from the meat so as to avoid the danger from overcooking them.

There is much to be said in favor of keeping a soup pot on the stove all the time, provided great care is taken not to allow the contents to grow stale. Into this pot can go clean portions of uncooked food and also clean foods left from the table, such as meat, milk, mashed potatoes, or other vegetables, crusts, cold cereal mashes, and even fruits. Soups made from such materials may not have great nutritive value, but, like those made out of materials bought for the purpose, they encourage the use of a large amount of bread, particularly if carefully seasoned.

BROWN STEW

For this dish the cheaper and less tender cuts of beef, such as the rump and round can be used; remove the meat from the bone and cut it into small pieces; dredge with flour and cook in a small amount of fat until it is well browned; add hot water, about 1 qt to every pound of meat; season with salt, pepper and onion, and cook.

CARROT STEW

In these times of “high prices” perhaps the following will be found helpful in the list of cheap though nourishing dishes: Into 1 qt boiling water put 2 c grated carrot; add salt to taste and allow to cook for 15 or 20 min; add 1 qt milk, which has been warming, to which has been added a piece of butter and broken or rolled crackers; allow mixture to become very hot, when it is ready for serving. The flavor will be found delicious, reminding one of salmon. Of course, the more generous piece of butter the richer the stew.

CHOWDERS

Fresh fish or clam chowder and oyster stew are good dishes for school lunches in localities where fresh sea food is abundant. Dried and salt fish or vegetables alone may also be used as the flavoring in chowders that children will find attractive and wholesome. The ingredients are milk, whole or skim; a fatty substance, which is usually salt pork, though butter may be used; potatoes or crackers, often both, and in addition to these one of the following: Fish, either fresh or salt; green corn, fresh or canned; parsnips, vegetable oysters, kohl-rabi or celery. A chowder consisting mainly of milk, potatoes and crackers, and flavored with a little salt codfish is perhaps the most economical of these dishes.

SALT CODFISH CHOWDER

½ lb salt codfish, 1½ oz or 1½″ cube fat salt pork, 1 tbp chopped
onion, 3 c cooked potatoes, or diced carrots and potatoes, 1 qt
milk, 8 soda crackers (about 2 oz).

Break the codfish into small pieces, soak it in lukewarm water until it is soft and the salt has been removed; cut the pork into small pieces and cook it until a delicate brown, adding the onions during the last part of the cooking; to the pork and onions add the potatoes; cover with water and boil them until tender; add the milk and the fish and reheat; add the crackers shortly before the chowder is served.

POTATO CHOWDER

¼ lb salt pork, diced, 1 tbp chopped onion, 6 medium-sized
potatoes, sliced, 1 tbp butter or other fat, 1 tbp flour, 1 pt
milk, 1 pt water, 1 tsp salt.

Fry the pork and onion together until both are a delicate brown; put a layer of sliced potatoes into a kettle then a layer of onion and pork, and sprinkle with salt; repeat this until those materials are all used; pour over them the grease from the pan in which the pork and onion were fried, and add the water; cover and simmer for 20 min, or until the potatoes are tender; thicken the milk with the flour mixed with the fat and pour it over the potatoes; stir carefully, so as not to break the potatoes; serve very hot.

LOBSTER CHOWDER

2 c lobster meat, ¼ c onion, ¼ c salt pork fat, 2 tbp butter, 4 c
milk, salt, cayenne, blade of mace, 1 c hot cream, 2 tbp flour.

Cook onion in salt pork fat; melt butter; add flour, milk and seasonings and cook in db with lobster cut in cubes 20 min; add strained salt pork fat, hot cream and serve.

CLAM CHOWDER

1½ doz clams chopped fine, 1 c water, 3 large potatoes, cut into
dice, 2 slices pork or bacon, cut into dice, 1 slice onion, 1
qt milk, 2 level tbp butter, 2 level tbp flour, 1 tsp chopped
parsley, 1 level tsp salt, pepper to season, 8 crackers.

Fry out the pork or bacon and fry the onion in the fat; add the clam liquor, water and potatoes; cook until tender; season, and add the clams and milk; cook 10 min longer, then thicken with the butter and flour creamed together; pour the chowder over the crackers and sprinkle with chopped parsley.

CORN CHOWDER

1 c fresh corn, 1½″ cube salt pork, diced, 1 onion, sliced, 1 qt
potatoes, sliced, 1 c milk or cream, salt and pepper, 8 crackers.

Fry the salt pork; add the onion, and cook until the onion is tender; boil the potatoes 5 min in 1 qt of boiling water; add the fat, and cook until the potatoes are soft; add the corn and milk and bring to the scalding point; add the butter and seasoning; pour over the crackers and serve hot.

MILK STEW

1 qt milk, 1 c raw potatoes, cut into small pieces, 2 tbp butter
or bacon fat, 1 c salt codfish, cut into small pieces or just
enough to flavor the stew.

Soak the fish in lukewarm water until it is soft and the salt removed; cook the potatoes in water until tender; drain them; add the milk and codfish, and bring to the boiling point; add the butter and salt to taste.

In place of the codfish, any other salt or fresh fish, oysters, or a little chipped beef may be used. Or the fish may be omitted and the soup made savory and palatable by adding a few drops of onion juice, or a vegetable cut into small pieces and cooked thoroughly.

VEGETABLE CHOWDER

4 potatoes, 3 carrots, 3 onions, 1 pt tomatoes, 2 tsp salt, 2 tbp
fat or a small piece salt pork, 3 tbp flour, 2 c skim milk.

Cut the potatoes and carrots into small pieces; add water to cover, and cook 20 min; brown the chopped onion in the fat; add the flour and the tomatoes, and when thickened, add to the vegetables; heat the milk and combine with the vegetables just before serving.

LAMB STEW

2 lb breast of lamb, 2 c boiling water, 2 c potato cubes, 2 tbp
butter or pork fat, ½ c sliced onion, 2 tbp rice, 1 c strained
tomato, salt and pepper.

Brown the onions in hot fat; cut meat in 2″ pieces; add to onions; cover with hot water and simmer 2 hr; parboil potatoes; add rice when meat has cooked 1 hr; add parboiled potatoes ½ hr before serving; add tomato 10 min before serving; season with salt and pepper. The tomato may be omitted and 1 c of water substituted.

SHEPHERD’S PIE

1 lb chopped cooked meat, 2 lb mashed potatoes, 1 sliced onion,
salt and pepper, few grains paprika, 1 tbp butter, ½ c water, ½
tsp meat extract.

Fry the onion in the butter; put into a pudding dish a layer of the potato, a little seasoning, a layer of the meat, then onion, pour over the water, in which the meat extract has been dissolved, and continue the layers until the dish is full; covering over the whole with a layer of potatoes; make the potatoes rough on the top with a fork; put on a few pieces of butter and bake until browned; serve hot.

TOMATO FISH CHOWDER

4 lb cod or haddock, or 1 lb dry salt fish, 4 c potatoes, cut in
cubes, 1½″ cube fat salt pork, 1 sliced onion, 2½ c stewed and
strained tomatoes, 3 tbp butter, ⅔ c cracker crumbs, salt and
pepper.

Buy a whole fish, but have it skinned; cut off head and tail and remove backbone; cut fish in small pieces and set aside; put head, tail and backbone into 2 c cold water, bring to a boil and cook 20 min; cut pork into small pieces; try out; add onion and cook 5 min; parboil potatoes 5 min, then drain and add to fat with 2 c boiling water, also the liquor drained from the bones and the pieces of fish; cover and simmer 10 min; add tomatoes, salt, pepper and butter; just before serving, add cracker crumbs. If dry salt fish is used, freshen it by soaking several hours in 3 or 4 changes of warm water.

MUTTON AND LAMB

Mutton is the meat of sheep and is almost as nutritious as beef.

Lamb is the meat from a lamb. It is less nutritious than mutton. Spring lamb is the meat from a lamb at 6 or 8 weeks.

ROAST LAMB

A leg of lamb is usually sent from market surrounded by a thin membrane known as the caul. If this peels off easily and the fat is hard, white and flaky, the meat is in good condition. Remove the caul, wipe meat with wet cloth, sprinkle with salt and pepper, place in hot roasting pan, dredge the meat and pan with flour, place in a hot oven. Baste with water and drippings as soon as flour in pan browns, and every 15 min afterward until meat is done. The heat in oven should be reduced after the first 30 min of roasting. It will take about 2 hr for roasting.

Good quality mutton should be fine grained and of bright pink color; the fat white, hard and flaky. Lamb chops may be easily distinguished from mutton chops by the red color of bone. As a lamb grows older blood recedes from bones; therefore in mutton the bone is white. Good mutton contains a larger proportion of fat than good beef. Poor mutton is often told by the relatively small proportion of fat and lean as compared to bone.

Lamb is usually preferred well done. Mutton is often cooked rare.

=To Carve a Leg of Lamb.= Cut in thin slices across grain of meat to the bone, beginning at top of the leg.

HOT POT OF MUTTON

1 lb mutton, ½ c pearl barley, celery tops or parsley, 4
potatoes, 3 onions, 1 tbp salt.

Cut mutton in small pieces and brown with onion fat cut from the meat; pour this into a covered saucepan; add 2 qt water and the barley; simmer for 1½ hr; then add the potatoes, cut in quarters, add the seasonings and cook ½ hr longer.

BALLOTIN OF LAMB

Bone a shoulder of lamb, leaving the end for a handle; sew it up with a needle, tie it firmly and boil for 5 min; take out and cool, then lard it; put a slice of bacon in a saucepan with 1 tbp minced onion and 1 carrot; brown the lamb with these for 5 min; remove meat to a kettle and add a pt of white broth and seasoning, and cook for 1¼ hr. The sauce should reduce ½; thicken slightly, pour it over 1 pt boiled green peas and lay the lamb upon them.

BREADED MUTTON CHOPS

Wipe and trim chops, sprinkle with salt and pepper; dip in crumbs, egg and crumbs; fry in deep fat from 5 to 8 min; drain; serve with tomato sauce, or stack around a mound of mashed potatoes, fried potato balls or green peas; allow fat to reheat between fryings; after testing fat for temperature, put in chops and place kettle on back of range, that surface of chops may not be too brown while the inside is still underdone.

BRAISED BREAST OF LAMB

With sharp knife remove bones from a breast of lamb; season it well with salt and pepper; roll up and tie firmly with twine; put 2 tbp butter in the braising pan, and when melted add 1 onion, 1 slice of carrot and 1 of turnip, all cut fine; stir for 5 min and then put in the lamb, with a thick dredging of flour; cover and set back where it will cook slowly for an hour; baste often; take up the meat, skim all the fat off the gravy, put it where it will boil rapidly for 5 min; take the string from the meat; strain the gravy and pour over the dish; serve very hot with tomato sauce. Bones put in the pan with the meat improve the gravy.

BROILED CHOPS

Wipe chops, remove superfluous fat, and place in a broiler greased with some of mutton fat. In loin chops, flank may be rolled and fastened with a small wooden skewer.

PAN BROILED CHOPS

Chops for pan broiling should have flank and most of fat removed; wipe chops and put in frying pan rubbed with a piece of fat cut from chops; sear under surface, turn and sear other side; turn often, using knife and fork that the surface may not be pierced, as would be liable if fork alone were used; cook to suit; let stand around edge of frying pan to brown the outside fat; when half cooked, sprinkle with salt; put on hot platter, and spread with butter or serve with tomato sauce.

=Gravy.= Drain off all but 3 tbp of fat from the dripping pan; dredge into it 3 tbp flour, and brown well; add 1 pt cold water; cook slowly, stirring constantly until thick and smooth. If made carefully, this will require no straining.

SADDLE OF MUTTON

The loin is removed whole before dividing into sides; trim meat, wipe with wet cloth, sprinkle with salt and pepper; place on rack in hot roaster; dredge meat and bottom of pan with flour; place in hot oven; baste with water and fat as soon as flour browns and every 15 min afterward. The meat should cook in 1¼ hr.

ROAST MUTTON SHOULDER

Remove the bone and fill space with a moist stuffing made with grated stale bread crumbs, highly seasoned with butter, salt, pepper and thyme; add the yolk of 1 or 2 eggs and enough warm water to soften the bread; put bones and scraps of meat in a kettle with barely enough water to cover; lay the stuffed shoulder on them and let the whole simmer gently for 1 hr; lift onto the rack in a roasting pan; dredge with salt, pepper and flour and bake an hour, or till tender; strain the water in the kettle and use it for basting and for gravy, with a little butter and flour at the last to froth the surface.

MINCED LAMB

Remove dry pieces of skin and gristle from left-over cold roast lamb and chop the meat; heat in well-buttered frying pan; season with salt, pepper and celery salt; dredge well with flour and add enough hot water to make a thin gravy; pour on slices of buttered toast.

SALMI OF LAMB

Cut cold roast lamb in thin slices; cook 5 min 2 tbp butter with ½ tbp finely chopped onion; add lamb; sprinkle with salt and pepper, and cover with 1 c brown sauce; cook until thoroughly heated; arrange slices overlapping one another lengthwise of platter; pour around sauce, and garnish with toast points. A few sliced mushrooms or stoned olives improve this sauce.

FRICASSEE OF LAMB

3 lb lamb from the forequarter, cut in pieces for serving; wipe meat; put in kettle; cover with boiling water, and cook slowly until meat is tender; remove from water, cool, sprinkle with salt and pepper; dredge with flour, and saute in butter or mutton fat; arrange on platter and pour around 1½ c brown sauce made from liquid in which meat was cooked after removing all fat.

SCALLOPED LAMB

Remove skin and fat from thin slices of cold roast lamb, and sprinkle with salt and pepper; cover bottom of a buttered baking dish with buttered cracker crumbs; cover crumbs with meat; cover meat with boiled macaroni, and add another layer of meat and macaroni; pour over tomato sauce, and cover with buttered cracker crumbs; bake in hot oven until crumbs are brown. Cold rice may be used in place of macaroni.

LAMB EN CASSEROLE

3 c cold cooked lamb, cut in pieces, 1 tbp butter, 1 c cooked
carrots, cut in cubes, 1 c cooked potato balls, 8 small onions,
cooked, left-over gravy.

Brown lamb in fat; put in a baking dish; add carrots, potato balls and onions; add left-over gravy and enough hot water to moisten; season with salt and pepper; cover and bake in hot oven 20 to 25 min.

SCALLOPED LAMB

2 c cooked lamb, cut in small pieces, 2 c medium white sauce, 1 c
soft bread crumbs, 1 tbp chopped parsley.

Mix lamb and white sauce together; put a layer of lamb in a greased casserole or baking dish; add a layer of bread crumbs and sprinkle with parsley; repeat this process until all the ingredients are used, having a layer of crumbs on top; bake in a hot oven 20 to 25 min, or until crumbs are brown.

CURRIED LAMB

2½ lb lamb shoulder, 2 tbp fat, 1 tsp salt, ⅛ tsp pepper, 1½ tbp
curry powder, 2 tbp flour, 2 tbp water, 3 c boiled rice.

Wipe lamb with a clean, damp cloth; cut into medium-sized pieces and remove the fat; melt butter in a frying pan; add lamb and cook until delicate brown; cover with boiling water; add salt, pepper and curry powder mixed with a little cold water; cover and simmer for about 2½ hr or until lamb is tender; make a smooth paste of the flour and water and add enough to thicken the liquid; mound hot rice in center of a hot platter and pour the curried lamb around it.

SWEETBREADS, TONGUES, ETC.

SWEETBREADS

A sweetbread is the thymus gland of lamb or calf, but in cookery, veal sweetbreads only are considered. Sweetbreads are a table delicacy, and a valuable addition to the menu of the convalescent. Sweetbreads consist of two parts: The round, compact part is called the heart sweetbread, as its position is nearer the heart; the other part is called the throat sweetbread. When sweetbread is found in market separated, avoid buying two of the throat sweetbreads, as the heart sweetbread is more desirable.

They spoil very quickly, and should be removed from paper as soon as received from market, plunged into cold water and allowed to stand 1 hr; drained, and put into salted boiling water, then cooked slowly 20 min; again drained, and plunged into cold water, that they may be kept white and firm. They are always parboiled in this manner for subsequent cooking.

BROILED SWEETBREAD

Parboil a sweetbread; split crosswise; sprinkle with salt and pepper; broil 5 min; serve with lemon butter sauce.

CREAMED SWEETBREADS

Cook sweetbreads as directed under Broiled sweetbreads; dice in ½″ cubes; heat in cream sauce made from 1 tbp butter substitute, 1½ tbp flour, and 1 c milk; season with salt and pepper.

BRAINS SCRAMBLED WITH EGG

Soak calves’ brains 1 hr in cold water; remove membrane and parboil 20 min in salted water to which a little vinegar or lemon juice has been added; drain, separate into small pieces. To 4 eggs, lightly beaten, add 4 tbp milk or water, salt, pepper, and ½ c brains; scramble in small amount of butter substitute; serve with chopped parsley.

MINCED KIDNEY

Trim kidneys, removing white fat from center; cut in thin slices; dredge with flour, and brown in small amount of fat, to which has been added a sliced onion. Other seasonings, such as green pepper and celery salt, may be added; when brown, add 1 pt water or stock; simmer gently for 5 min; add more flour if necessary to thicken gravy; serve on toast or with mashed potatoes. Kidneys should be cooked only a short time or they become toughened.

FRIED LIVER

Veal liver is preferable because of its tenderness, but beef liver may be used by first boiling until tender; after boiling, cut in ½″ slices; remove outside skin and veins; dredge with cornmeal and fry in hot fat.

BROILED TRIPE

Fresh honeycomb tripe is best for broiling. Wipe tripe as dry as possible; dip in fine cracker dust and olive oil or melted butter; drain, and again dip in cracker dust; place in greased broiler and broil 5 min; cooking smooth side of tripe the first 3 min; place on hot platter, honeycomb side up, spread with butter, and sprinkle with salt and pepper.

TRIPE IN BATTER

Wipe tripe and cut in pieces for serving; sprinkle with salt and pepper; dip in batter; fry in small quantity of hot fat; drain.

=Tripe Batter.= Mix 1 c flour with ¼ tsp salt; add gradually ½ c cold water, and when perfectly smooth add 1 egg, well beaten, ½ tbp vinegar, and 1 tsp olive oil or melted butter.

SWEETBREAD CROQUETTES

1 c mushrooms, cut in small pieces, salt and pepper, 1 c cold
cooked sweetbreads, cut in dice, lemon juice and onion juice, 1 c
croquette sauce.

Saute mushrooms in butter; add sweetbread, seasonings, sauce; shape; dip in crumbs, egg and crumbs, and fry.

JELLIED TONGUE

Boil, trim and skin either fresh or salt tongue; have 1¼ qt of aspic jelly in liquid state; cover bottom of a 2 qt mould about an inch deep with it and let it harden. With a fancy vegetable cutter cut out leaves from cooked beets and garnish bottom of mould with them; gently pour in 3 tbp jelly, to set vegetables; when this is hard add jelly enough to cover vegetables, and let the whole get very hard; then put in tongue, and about ½ c of jelly, which should be allowed to harden, and so keep meat in place when remainder is added; pour in remainder of jelly and set away to harden. To serve: Dip mould for a few moments in a pan of warm water and gently turn onto a dish; garnish with pickles and parsley. Pickled beet is especially nice.

FILLETS OF TONGUE

Cut cold boiled tongue in pieces 4″ long, 2″ wide, and ½″ thick; dip in melted butter and flour and fry until brown.

CALF’S HEAD

1 calf’s head, 1 onion, 1 bay leaf, 6 whole cloves, 1 tbp salt, 1
root of celery.

Split head through center; remove brains and lay them in ice cold salted water; wash head thoroughly in many changes of cold water.

To remove skin, begin from under head, keeping knife close to bone; remove as one piece; singe skin and place in cold water for 1 hr; after which, scrape it with a knife; singe again and place in cold water.

Scald cleaned head with boiling water, then place it, with skin on top. In a soup kettle; pour over it 4 qt cold water; bring to boiling point and skim; reduce heat, cover and let simmer for 2 hr; add seasonings and let simmer for 1 hr more.

PORK

Pork is flesh and fat of pig or hog. It contains the largest percentage of fat of any meat. When eaten fresh it is the most difficult of digestion. By curing, salting and smoking, pork is rendered more wholesome. Bacon, next to butter and cream, is the most easily assimilated of all fatty foods. Pork should always be well cooked.

PORK CHOPS

Wipe chops; sprinkle with salt and pepper; place in hot frying pan; cook slowly until tender and well browned on each side.

PORK CHOPS AND STEAKS

Chops are cut from loin and ribs; cuts from leg and shoulder being known as steaks. Either piece is best cooked by laying them in hot frying pan, cook slowly until well seared on each side; then drain off all fat and set into a hot oven for 5 or 10 min, according to thickness of piece; season with pepper and salt just before laying in pan and serve with fried apples or a pickle gravy.

Pork steaks, chops and even roasting pieces may be cooked ready to serve then covered with lard and kept in a cool place. They will keep perfectly for weeks, and when wanted the lard can be melted, the meat reheated, and any sauce desired served with them.

ROAST PORK

The chine, loin and spareribs are the best pieces for roasting. Trim and wipe meat; rub well with salt, pepper and sage; place in hot roasting pan; dredge with flour; roast in hot oven until surfaces are brown; baste, reduce heat and roast from 3 to 3½ hr, basting every 20 min.

CHOPS WITH APPLES

Arrange pork chops on platter, surround with slices of apples, cut ½″ thick; fried in fat remaining in pan after frying chops.

CHOPS EN CASSEROLE

7 medium-sized potatoes, 2 tbp flour, 1 tsp salt, ⅛ tsp pepper, 3
tbp fat, 3 c milk, 6 pork chops.

Wash and pare potatoes; cut in thin slices; put a layer in greased baking dish and sprinkle with flour, salt and pepper; dot with small bits of fat; add another layer of potatoes and seasoning and repeat until all ingredients are used; pour milk over it; lay pork chops on top; bake in moderate oven 1½ hr or until potatoes are tender.

BAKED PORK CHOPS

Dip each chop in milk with a pinch of salt added to it; roll in bread crumbs evaporated; place in well-greased shallow pan; put a tsp of fat on top of each and bake in hot oven 20 min.

ROAST LEG OF PORK

Trim and wipe meat, if used with skin on; score it in 1-in squares, taking care to cut only through skin; make a cut just below knuckle with boning knife, slide knife up along bone and turn it outward, making a half dozen cuts ⅔ way to the skin and fill them with stuffing; sprinkle with salt and pepper; place on rack in roasting pan; dredge with flour. For roasting, follow directions for Roast Pork: Half hour before serving sprinkle with 1 tbp cracker crumbs seasoned with pepper, salt and sage; serve with apple sauce.

STUFFING

1 c grated bread crumbs, 1 sour apple, 1 small onion, 6 sage
leaves, 2 tbp butter, 1 tsp salt, ¼ tsp pepper, 2 egg yolks.

Chop apple and onion; melt butter; add crumbs, rubbing them hard to distribute butter evenly; add seasoning, apple and onion and 2 beaten egg yolks.

ROAST LOIN RIBS

The meat is usually cut quite close from these and used for steaks. Follow directions for Roast Pork and allow 30 min for each pound; serve with apples roasted in same pan or fried; save all drippings from baking pan and see that the glaze is all dissolved; if the oven has not been too hot this fat will serve for frying and gravy can be made to serve with cold roast pork.

BROILED PORK TENDERLOIN

Trim and wipe meat, split open and broil; season with pepper, salt and 1 sage leaf for each one; place in hot broiler and brown thoroughly; serve on hot platter with melted butter.

SCRAPPLE

Scrapple is usually made from head and sometimes liver and heart of the hog.

10 lb whole hog heads, 2½ lb hog livers and hearts, a small
quantity of beef if desired, 6 lb cornmeal, yellow or mixed, ½ lb
salt, ½ lb buckwheat or rye flour, 3 oz spices, including pepper,
sage, marjoram and thyme in any desired proportions.

Clean heads thoroughly, removing eyes and ear tubes; split head lengthwise and remove teeth and soft bones in and near nasal cavities; place heads and other meat in large kettle with a liberal quantity of water and cook until meat falls off bones; separate liquid and soft tissue from bones and pass through a fc; strain liquid in which meat was cooked to remove small pieces of bone, return to kettle and heat to boiling point; then slowly add the meal and flour, stirring constantly; boil and stir until the mass becomes thick; add the salt, spices and chopped meat, and boil 10 min longer. Pour while still hot into deep meat molds; bread pans will do; pour 2 to 4 tbp of melted lard over the materials in pans.

The scrapple is ready for use as soon as it has cooled. To prepare it for the table it is usually cut into slices about ½″ thick, dusted with flour, cracker dust or dry cornmeal, fried until the outside is crisp, and served hot; fried apples are good with fried scrapple.

LIVER AND BACON

Prepare the bacon as directed for breakfast bacon; cut the liver in slices ⅓″ thick, cover with boiling water and let stand 5 min; dry well and roll in seasoned flour; lay the slices in smoking hot bacon fat; when they are browned on each side they will be sufficiently cooked; serve on hot platter; garnish with slices of bacon.

ROAST FRESH HAM

Remove bone from a fresh ham or fresh pork shoulder; wipe meat, sprinkle with salt and stuff; sew in shape and score fat; place on rack in pan; dredge meat and bottom of pan with flour, and roast in a hot oven 3 hr, basting every 15 min with fat in pan; remove skin and brush outside of ham with 1 egg yolk diluted with 2 tbp cold water; sprinkle with ¼ c fine bread crumbs mixed with ¼ c brown sugar and bake until well browned.

FRIED HAM AND EGGS

Wipe ham, remove ½ outside layer of fat, and place in frying pan; cover with tepid water and let stand on back of range 30 min; drain and dry on a towel; heat pan, put in ham; brown quickly on one side, turn and brown other side; or soak ham over night; dry and cook in hot frying pan. If cooked too long, ham will become hard and dry; serve with fried eggs cooked in the tried-out ham fat.

HAM WITH JELLY SAUCE

½ tbp butter, ⅓ c currant jelly, 1 c cold cooked ham cut in small
strips, few grains cayenne, ¼ c sherry wine.

Put butter and currant jelly into chafing dish; as soon as melted, add cayenne, wine and ham; simmer 5 min.

SAUSAGES

Cut apart a string of sausages; pierce each sausage several times with a carving fork; put in frying pan, cover with boiling water, and cook 15 min; drain; return to frying pan, and fry until well browned; serve with fried apples. Sausages are often broiled same as bacon and apples baked in pan under them.

MEAT LOAF

1 lb fresh pork, 1 lb veal. 2 lb beef, 1 c bread crumbs, 1 c
milk. 1 tbp salt, ⅛ tsp pepper, 3 eggs, slightly beaten.

Chop meat finely, mix, and add remaining ingredients in order given; shape into a loaf; put in pan, and lay across top 6 thin slices fat salt pork; roast in a hot oven 1½ hr, basting every 10 min, at first with ½ c hot water and after that has gone, with fat in pan; remove to platter, pour around tomato or brown sauce and garnish with parsley. One small onion, peeled and finely chopped, may be added.

BREAKFAST BACON (1)

Remove the rind and cut bacon in thin slices; cook in a hot frying pan; turning slices frequently until crisp and brown; drain on a soft paper.

BREAKFAST BACON (2)

Remove the rind and cut bacon in thin slices; place the slices on a broiler over a dripping pan and bake in hot oven until bacon is crisp; turn once during baking; drain on soft paper. Oysters may be wrapped in thin slices of bacon and baked in this way.

FRIED SALT PORK

Remove the rind and cut the pork in ¼″ slices; freshen, if very salt, and fry slowly and evenly until dry. It is used as a garnish for fish, fishballs, tripe, etc.; may be used as a lunch or breakfast dish baked with potatoes and a white gravy made like white sauce; only the fat from the pork is substituted for butter.

BROILED PIGS’ FEET

Wipe, sprinkle with salt and pepper and broil 6 to 8 min; serve with maitre d’hotel butter or sauce piquante.

FRIED PIGS’ FEET

Wipe, sprinkle with salt and pepper, dip in crumbs, egg and crumbs; fry in deep fat and drain.

BOILED HAM

Soak in cold water over night or for several hours; scrape, and trim carefully; put in a kettle and cover with cold water; bring gradually to the boiling point and cook slowly until tender; remove kettle from range and set aside that ham may partially cool; then take from water, peel, skin carefully in 2″ strips; make rings or figures with cloves stuck in the crust, brush with beaten egg and dust thickly with fine bread crumbs; brown in the oven; add a paper ruffle to the shank before sending to table; garnish with cauliflower, cabbage, sauerkraut, spinach or some sort of greens.

To glaze ham, after cooking and peeling, brush with beaten egg and coat with paste made of 1 c cracker crumbs, made into a smooth paste with 1 c milk and a tbp of butter; brown in a moderate oven. Some cooks add a tsp of sugar to the bread crumbs; vinegar may be substituted for wine. When either vinegar or wine is used the cook should not put it in an iron pot. In any method the main point is to heat gradually, cook slowly and cool in the liquor.

STUFFED HAM

Soak a 10 or 12 lb ham in cold water over night, in the morning wash and trim carefully; remove the bone and fill with stuffing; sew up the slit where the bone was taken out, and bind the ham firmly in a strong piece of cotton; cook slowly for 3 or 4 hr, and cool in the bandage; when cold, remove the bandage, the rind and the brown fat; sprinkle with sugar and fine crumbs; bake 1 hr in a slow oven.

STUFFING

1 lb chestnuts, 1 can mushrooms, 6 truffles, 1 slice raw ham, 1
egg, 1 oz mustard seed, 2 cucumber pickles, ¼ tsp allspice, ¼ tsp
cloves, 2 tbp minced parsley, 2 tbp salt, 1 tbp onion.

Boil the nuts till tender enough to chop fine; cut the truffles into strips and chop all the other ingredients; add seasonings and spices; boil all together with a raw egg.

SAVORY BAKED HAM

1 slice ham (1″ thick or more), 2 tbp mustard, to tbp water,
about 1 c milk.

Make a paste of the mustard and water and rub it on both sides of the ham; place ham in baking dish slightly larger; add milk almost to cover and bake in moderate oven until milk is absorbed and the top of the ham is nicely browned. This requires about 45 min.

SCALLOPED HAM-POTATOES

1 slice ham 2″ thick, potatoes, pared and sliced, 1 pt
(approximately) milk, chopped parsley.

Cut ham in pieces for service; put in greased pyrex loaf pan or utility dish; pile potatoes on side, and pour in milk; bake in slow oven 1½ to 2 hr; sprinkle with parsley.

VIRGINIA BAKED HAM

Soak ham over night. In the morning scrape and clean well, not forgetting to clean the opening in shank, and through which the string is drawn. Then place ham in pot of boiling water, to which you have added ½ c brown sugar and ½ c vinegar or cider; boil briskly for 10 min, then reduce heat and cook slowly for 2½ hr or until tender; cool and remove skin to near shank end; rub in well over ham 1 tbp dry mustard; insert cloves all over ham at intervals of 2″; place ¼ c of vinegar mixed with sugar in bottom of baking pan, but do not baste ham; bake for about 1 hr. Apricots or prunes placed in pan when baking gives a nice flavor and are delicious served with the ham.

HAMPIQUANT

1 lb thinly sliced cooked ham; 1 tbp mustard, ¼ tsp black pepper,
dash of cayenne, ¾ c grated Parmesan or American cheese.

Mix the mustard and seasonings with enough milk to form a thick paste; spread this on the slices of ham and sprinkle each slice with cheese; stack the ham in the shape of a brick and tie with a string; bake for 30 min in a moderate oven, basting occasionally with the ham fat as it runs out into the pan. When cold remove the string and cut in slices downward through the layers.

HAM EN CASSEROLE

Cut potatoes in 1″ balls and put them in a covered dish; season with salt and pepper; cover with milk; over a thick slice of ham sprinkle a little dry mustard and place ham on potatoes; add enough milk to cover; cover and bake in moderate oven 1 hr.

CORN RAGOUT

Cut scraps of ham or bacon in small pieces; fry brown; add 6 ripe tomatoes, peeled and sliced, and the grains cut from 6 ears of corn; cover with boiling water, season with red pepper and salt, and cook slowly ½ hr; serve hot with toast or slices of fried bread.

SAUSAGES (2)

2 lbs sweet potatoes, ½ c sugar, ½ c brown sugar, ¼ c water, 2
tbp fat, 1 tsp salt, 1 lb sausages.

Parboil sweet potatoes 15 min; peel and slice in strips like French fried potatoes; put in a greased baking dish; put sugar, brown sugar, water, fat and salt in a saucepan and boil 3 min; pour syrup over the sweet potatoes; bake in a moderate oven 30 to 40 min; put sausages on top of potatoes; cook ½ hr longer or until potatoes and sausages are tender.

SAUSAGE TURNOVERS

1 c sausage meat, 1 c chopped ham, 1 c cooked rice, 1 tsp
Worcestershire sauce, 1 egg, plain pastry.

Cook sausage meat in a frying pan, slowly, stirring constantly until done, but not browned, about 10 min; drain off fat; add ham, rice and Worcestershire sauce and mix well; add well-beaten egg; roll plain pastry very thin and cut in 4″ squares; put 2 tbp of the meat mixture in the center of each square; moisten edges with water and fold over to form triangles; press edges together with tines of fork, and prick the tops; bake in a hot oven 15 or 20 min.

SHELLFISH