Chapter I: Part 1

_Mount Rushmore_
NATIONAL MEMORIAL

A MONUMENT COMMEMORATING THE CONCEPTION, PRESERVATION, AND GROWTH OF
THE GREAT AMERICAN REPUBLIC

PUBLISHED BY THE
Mount Rushmore National Memorial Society of Black Hills
1948

CONTENTS

Foreword 1
The Mighty Works of Borglum 5
From the Beginning 9
The Role of the National Park Service 16
Wind Cave National Park 17
Badlands National Monument 17
Jewel Cave National Monument 17
Devils Tower National Monument 17
The Antiquity of Mount Rushmore 18
The Hall of Records and Great Stairway 20
George Washington 22
Thomas Jefferson 24
Abraham Lincoln 26
Theodore Roosevelt 28
As Great Men Saw It 30
Mount Rushmore National Memorial Society of Black Hills 31

_FOREWORD_

_A monument’s dimensions should be determined by the importance to civilization of the events commemorated. We are not here trying to carve an epic, portray a moonlight scene, or write a sonnet; neither are we dealing with mystery or tragedy, but rather the constructive and the dramatic moments or crises in our amazing history. We are cool-headedly, clear-mindedly setting down a few crucial, epochal facts regarding the accomplishments of the Old World radicals who shook the shackles of oppression from their light feet and fled despotism to people a continent: who built an empire and rewrote the philosophy of freedom and compelled the world to accept its wiser, happier forms of government._

_We believe the dimensions of national heartbeats are greater than village impulses, greater than city demands, greater than state dreams or ambitions. Therefore, we believe a nation’s memorial should, like Washington, Jefferson, Lincoln and Roosevelt, have a serenity, a nobility, a power that reflects the gods who inspired them and suggests the gods they have become._

_As for sculptured mountains—_

_Civilization, even its fine arts, is, most of it, quantity-produced stuff; education, law, government, wealth—each is enduring only as the day. Too little of it lasts into tomorrow and tomorrow is strangely the enemy of today, as today has already begun to forget buried yesterday. Each succeeding civilization forgets its predecessor, and out of its body builds its homes, its temples. Civilizations are ghouls. Egypt was pulled apart by its successor; Greece was divided among the Romans; Rome was pulled to pieces by bigotry and a bitterness much of which was engendered in its own empire building._

_I want, somewhere in America on or near the Rockies, the backbone of the Continent, so far removed from succeeding, selfish, coveting civilizations, a few feet of stone that bears witness, carries the likenesses, the dates, a word or two of the great things we accomplished as a Nation, placed so high it won’t pay to pull down for lesser purposes._

_Hence, let us place there, carved high, as close to heaven as we can, the words of our leaders, their faces, to show posterity what manner of men they were. Then breathe a prayer that these records will endure until the wind and the rain alone shall wear them away._

THE MIGHTY WORKS OF BORGLUM
_By_ RUPERT HUGHES

How big is great? How high is up?

In the wide and numberless fields of creative art, size is a matter of spirit rather than of material bulk. A sonnet may be a masterpiece, and an epic rubbish; or an epic may be sublime, a sonnet petty.

It is only affectation to confine one’s praise to small things. Because a poet delights in a brook chuckling through a thicket of birches he need not therefore despise Niagara. The word “colossal” should not be surrendered entirely to the advertisers.

The Shakespeare of the sonnets wrote also “Hamlet” and “King Lear.” The Beethoven who wrote the giggling _Scherzos_ wrote also the titanic Ninth and added its mighty chorus. Michelangelo did statuettes and sonnets, but also his “Day of Judgment” and his prodigious horned Moses.

To the sincere artist it is the idea that is vital. Once that has inflamed him, he seeks only to give it the shape and the size that its nature dictates.

So Gutzon Borglum, being sensitive to all the moods of life, a born poet, with an innate love of form for its own sake, quick to glow with inspirations of every kind and determined to give each its unique and eloquent shape, has painted and carved without fear or favor the exquisite and the tremendous with equal fidelity.

His genius shines in the little bas-relief of a nymph; in sardonic gargoyles; in the tiny yet epic statuette of the dying Nero, a bloated coward tangled in his toga and drooping to his ignoble death; in the suave portrait of the seated Ruskin; the pathos of the old Boer warrior; in the billowy rush of the stampeding “Mares of Diomedes”; in his colossal head of Lincoln; in his war memorial for Newark, New Jersey, with its marvellously composed forty-two figures and two horses; his magnificent plan for the Stone Mountain, whose thwarting is one of the great tragedies of art; and finally in his supreme achievement, the Mount Rushmore Memorial, where he brought his art to the mountains and left there the four great faces for all eternity.

This unparalleled accomplishment seems to have been not so much the carving of those vast heads upon the peaks as the beating away of the veiling, smothering stone and the releasing of the imprisoned statesmen so that they might look out upon the world and utter their lofty messages in a silence more pervasive and sonorous than any trumpet-tone.

The heads stand up there against the clouds like cloud-gods. Yet they are not offered as gods, but as plain men who glorified the plain man. Each of them is greater in magnitude than the so-called Egyptian Sphinx. The Sphinx represented an unanswerable riddle and she cruelly destroyed all who could not answer it. But these presidents of ours represent brave, clear thinking towards safety and dignity and happiness for all mankind.

The Sphinx was really a portrait, the largest portrait ever made till Borglum came along. It is the head of King Khafre set on the body of a crouching lion guarding the king’s tomb, with his pyramid back of it. Khafre had it built during a reign that ended over four thousand, seven hundred and fifty years ago.

Near the Sphinx and Khafre’s pyramid is the greater pyramid of King Khufu, better known to us as Cheops. He lived from 2898 to 2875 BC. and his pyramid contains over two million blocks of stone, of an average weight of two and a half tons. Herodotus was told that it took a hundred thousand men twenty years to build it.

Near Karnak there are still standing—or sitting—two portrait statues of Amenhotep III, who ruled fourteen hundred years B.C.—just about the time of Moses. These statues are seventy feet high.

One of the four colossal statues at Abu Simbel represents Rameses II, who died about two thousand, six hundred years ago. Lying on its side is a broken statue of Rameses II, once 90 feet high and carved from a single thousand-ton block. This and another statue of him in granite ninety feet high were, according to Breasted writing in 1905, “the greatest monolithic statues ever executed.”

But Borglum’s bust of Washington is larger than the whole figure of Rameses, Lincoln’s nose is 21 feet long and the sparkle in his eye is secured by a block of granite thirty inches long.

Some of the Egyptian portraits were carved upon their cliffs somewhat as Borglum’s statues are upon the peaks. At Abu Simbel there are four such statues of enormous bulk.

The Assyrians also built huge monuments, and inscribed the texts of whole histories on the faces of cliffs. Their kings were usually represented as enormous winged bulls with the heads of bearded men. These were called, strangely enough, “cherubs.”

The Greeks created for their greater gods statues of gold and ivory—whence the epithet “chryselephantine.” Such was the colossal Zeus that Pheidias made for Olympia. It was about fifty feet high. Pheidias made also two colossal figures of Athena for Athens, one in bronze that stood up like a lighthouse and was visible to sailors far out to sea. The other had ivory flesh and robes of gold, and was seventy feet high.

The famous bronze Colossus of Rhodes, erected about 274 B.C. by Chares of Lindus, was 105 feet high. It did not straddle a stream, as tradition has it. Half a century after it was set up, an earthquake overthrew it; in 656 A.D. it was sold for junk and carried off by a caravan of 900 camels.

In China one still sees enormous Buddhas, and in our own world the Mayan monstrosities are being brought back from the jungle that swallowed them like a sea.

The statue of Liberty—a gift to us from France—is 151 feet high; with its pedestal it is 305 feet tall.

But none of the giants ancient or modern has approached the size of the greater works of Borglum.

This carver of mountains was himself a mountainy man, born in the mountainous state of Idaho on March 25, 1871. His full name was John Gutzon de la Mothe Borglum. His parents had come over from Denmark. His father, at first a woodcarver, became a physician and surgeon, also a breeder of horses on a 6000-acre ranch. He had no money to give his children, but he gave them a love of form and a knowledge of the horse that not only inspired Gutzon Borglum to some of his most magnificent work, but also made a splendid career for his younger brother, Solon. Solon took fire from Gutzon’s fire, worked his way to Paris, won honors there, and came home to his West where he turned out a stream of important sculptures that perpetuate many poignant phases of Western life. His life was suddenly ended in 1922 by an attack of acute appendicitis.

Gutzon’s indomitable will carried him from the Idaho ranch to an art school in San Francisco, thence to Paris. He began as both painter and sculptor and was accepted as both by the French salons. In England, critics and royalty heaped honors on him. After painting a series of murals for a big hotel at Leeds and another series for a concert hall at Manchester, he began to abandon the brushes for the chisel, and to turn out statuary in almost every field and almost every imaginable form.

From the first, his works won the highest honors. The Metropolitan Museum bought his “Mares of Diomedes” at once and the French Government promptly purchased a partial replica of it for the Luxembourg Gallery. Commissions rained on him and there was never any repetition in the spirit or treatment of his responses.

There is not space here for even a catalogue of his triumphs. He also wrote much and well. He was an engineer and an inventor, overcoming by his own skill supposedly unconquerable problems involved in the construction of his larger works. He was an orator of eloquence with a practical skill in politics. At times he was a statesman and the close associate of Paderewski and Masaryk in their re-creation of their lost republics. During the first World War he investigated and exposed the causes for a mysterious and dangerous failure in American aircraft manufacture. His career has a strange kinship in its versatility with that of Leonardo da Vinci, and I believe that his name will live as long.

In 1909 he married Mary Montgomery, a distinguished scholar in ancient Oriental languages, and a translator of cuneiform inscriptions. A son and a daughter blessed this union of two great souls.

It was in 1907 that I first met Gutzon Borglum while preparing an article on his work, to which I paid complete homage. This was the beginning of a lifelong friendship of which I wrote him while he was glorifying the South Dakota mountains:

“I have always had an awe and a reverence for you that fought with my love for the simple, jovial, twinkling-eyed friend you always were.”

He answered: “You have said your say about me and it is a wet eye that reads through the letter. You know how vandalism in the name of Civilization raids the tombs of our ancestors and destroys the records of History. One of my motives in this work was to carve these records of our great West-World adventure as high into the heavens as I could find the stone.”

As man and as sculptor he was passionately American and he has not only given to his country monuments of art that equal the greatest of other nations, but he has given artistic expression to the ideals that make America America.

The Sphinx and its temple have only recently been recovered from the sand that submerged them for thousands of years. Yet even now the worst tyrannies and cruelties of the Pharaohs have been revived and paralleled in Europe, just as our gentlest, noblest ideals were to be found co-existing with savagery in ancient Egypt.

I hope, I believe that in 7000 A.D. there will be pilgrimages to Mount Rushmore by Americans still keeping alive the flames of freedom kindled and rekindled by the four heroes Borglum had immortalized, immortalizing himself and his and their ideals along with them.

His Mount Rushmore Memorial presents to posterity four great Americans who upheld the rights and equalities of all mankind, and who were themselves the very personifications of Americanism.

Their noble heads are lofty enough to mingle with the clouds, and the parading lights of sun and moon and stars, and the processionals of rain and snow and mist give them a beauty that is always changing yet everlastingly changeless.

Only a great soul and a great artist could have conceived or achieved such a monument to them and to himself. His gifts of spirit and execution were, I feel, unsurpassed by anything of their kind in the history of the world.

FROM THE BEGINNING
_By_ MRS. GUTZON BORGLUM

A nation’s memorials are a record of its civilization and the artist who builds them is the instrument of his time. He is inspired by the same forces that influence the nation’s destiny—the greater the period, the greater the art. The artist cannot escape his destiny. Like the “Hound of Heaven” it “pursues him down the years,” forces him to leave his home, to go into exile, to combat mountains even, to accomplish what must be.

How else can we explain why a man should abandon a comfortable way of life, among pleasant surroundings, to hurl himself against a gigantic rock, to cling like a human fly to a perpendicular peak, to struggle with hostile human nature, in order to carve against the sky a record of the great experiment in democracy on this continent—a record which will live on and be an inspiration to future generations, a shrine to be visited, even after the thing it commemorated may have passed.

This is the history of Rushmore told in a few words. The contributing factors are of interest and should be related but two outstanding facts are that a few kindred souls, giants in their day, fostered a form of democratic government and established a great nation and that a hundred and fifty years later another group of Americans realized the importance of making a record in the granite for all time of what manner of men they were and what they achieved.

The initial step in this great enterprise was taken by Doane Robinson, state historian of South Dakota, who had heard of the monument being carved in Georgia by Gutzon Borglum to honor the heroes of the South in the war between the states and thought it would be a fine idea to have a similar patriotic shrine in South Dakota to bring that state to the attention of the nation.

Mr. Robinson invited Mr. Borglum in 1924 to visit the Black Hills to see what could be done. The first thought was to carve the likeness of Washington and perhaps of Lincoln in one of the granite upthrusts known as the Needles. The stone, however, was not suitable and there was no special reason for memorializing Washington and Lincoln as individual presidents in South Dakota. Then Mr. Robinson told the sculptor of a lead tablet discovered by children playing near old Fort Pierre, which had been planted there in 1743 by Verendrye, an emissary of Louis of France, sent to establish French territory behind the English. This fired his imagination. Here was a subject for the great memorial he wanted to carve in the Hills.

South Dakota lies in the heart of the old Louisiana Territory, purchased by Jefferson in 1803, in order to control the mouth of the Mississippi, which marked the first step away from the Atlantic seaboard colonies in the expansion of the little republic. That step led to the establishment of Texas, the conquest of California, the acquisition of Oregon and Alaska and the spanning of the continent from ocean to ocean by the empire nation called the United States. This was a subject worthy of a mountain—a monument to a nation, to its philosophy of government, its ideals and aspirations, its great leaders. Here in this remote spot, protected by its inaccessibility from the vandalism of succeeding generations, would be carved a Shrine of Democracy, as an imperishable record of a great people.

Mr. Borglum paid a second and third visit to the Hills and camped among them for two weeks, exploring and examining every rock large enough to suggest a monument, with the result that the huge granite upthrust called Mount Rushmore was selected as the only stone sound enough to be suitable for carving. Another reason for choosing Rushmore was the important consideration of lighting. It was imperative that the cliff on which the figures were to be carved should face the east in order to get the maximum amount of sunlight all the day long. Washington’s face is so placed that it catches the first rays of light in the morning and reflects the last ruddy glow in the evening. Many beautiful works of art are made insignificant by poor lighting.

Senator Peter Norbeck, who had created the park system of South Dakota and played an important part in the creation of the Rushmore Memorial, also agreed that, in spite of its remote position with only riding trails leading to it, there was no other location possible.

That autumn a group of Rapid City women put on a pageant of flags, designed by Mr. Borglum, on the top of the cliff to show the different epochs through which the territory had passed. The French flag was first hoisted, then the Spanish, then the flag of Napoleon, next the colonial flag and finally the present flag of the United States. Thus was Mount Rushmore officially dedicated to the Memorial. Mr Borglum then returned to his temporary studio in San Antonio, Texas, to make the models and decide what characters best illustrated the idea to which he was trying to give form.

George Washington’s presence in the group was inevitable. He was the rock on which the republic was founded—the plumb line to establish its direction. So on Mount Rushmore his head is exactly perpendicular, facing the east, unaffected by the others in the group, the measuring rod determining the position of the others. Equally important with Washington was Thomas Jefferson, the author of the Declaration of Independence. By the purchase of the Louisiana Territory, as stated above, he had taken the first step westward in the course of the nation’s growth. He is represented on the mountain as a young man. He was only 33 when he wrote the Declaration of Independence.

Abraham Lincoln, the saviour of the republic, was inevitable in any record of the country’s history and finally Theodore Roosevelt was selected because, by cutting the Panama Canal, he had accomplished the dream of Columbus and opened a Sea-way from Europe to Asia and his name was closely linked with the territorial expansion following the war with Spain. He was also the first president to attempt the curbing of big business interests and the only president who had been familiar with the west. He had close associations with South Dakota.

The Mount Harney Memorial Association was authorized in 1925 by the state legislature to undertake the project on Mount Rushmore. No funds were voted for the purpose. Contributions were obtained from the three railroads serving the state, from the Homestake Mine and from private individuals, among them Mr. Charles Rushmore, a New York lawyer, after whom, quite accidentally, the cliff had been named. The work went on slowly, with considerable opposition, until President Coolidge’s visit to the Black Hills in 1927. He made a splendid speech at a picturesque ceremony held at Rushmore, immediately following which he took Mr. Borglum aside, inquired about the financing and urged him to come to Washington for help. It is doubtful whether, without this impetus given by President Coolidge, the carving would ever have been accomplished.

The Mount Rushmore National Memorial Commission came into existence as the result of a Congressional Bill, passed on Washington’s Birthday in 1929. The act carried an appropriation of $250,000 for the memorial, which was to be matched on a fifty-fifty basis by private subscriptions; it designated Gutzon Borglum as the sculptor and designer of the four figures and provided also for an inscription on the mountain.

The first ascent of the mountain was made up the canyon where the present wooden stairway now is. After the initial survey was made, pine trees with branches cut off and cleats nailed at right angles to the trees were laid in the crevices to serve as ladders. Heavy ropes were then carried by hand to the top and a small winch was carried as far as possible by pack horse and then carried to the top by hand. After this winch was fastened on the top of the mountain, it in turn was used to pull up the heavy cable that became the tramway from the ground to the mountain top. Building material was pulled up and shelters built for the men. A small studio was also built to house the plaster reproductions of the master models that were in the studio at the foot of the mountain. These reproductions were used for measurements to save time required to go to the studio 1500 feet away and 500 feet below. In some cases these models were hung over the side of the mountain so that they could be consulted and compared with the measurements as the actual stone work progressed. By this method it was possible to save considerable time and labor.

The work of fitting the figures into the cracked granite upthrust called Mt. Rushmore has been a constant struggle between composition and finding solid stone for each of the four heads.

In the first design Jefferson was placed at the right of Washington and Lincoln on his left, and Theodore Roosevelt occupied the position now occupied by Lincoln. However serious flaws developed in the stone on this side of Washington; and it therefore became necessary to change our design and place Jefferson to Washington’s left. This made it necessary to place Theodore Roosevelt between Jefferson and Lincoln, and the stone had to be removed to a depth of approximately 120 feet from the original surface to get back far enough for the Roosevelt face. The heads were finally relegated to their approximate position (being moved several times as new conditions of the stone developed), that is they were tilted or dropped or made to look more to the right or left as the case might have been, to meet the composition or avoid flaws in the stone. This movement being made simply by moving the respective heads on the model and cutting the stone accordingly. It was not possible to fit the heads so that they would be entirely free from fissures, but it was possible to place them so that none of these fissures would be unsupported from below and that removes the danger of some vital part dropping off. As each head was started its center was located, and at this center point on the top of the head a plate was located. This was graduated in degrees 0 to 360 degrees, and at its center a horizontal arm was located that traversed this horizontal are. This arm was about 30 feet long, in effect a giant protractor laid on top of the head. The arm was graduated in feet and inches so that at any point we could drop a plumb bob from this arm, and by measuring the vertical distance on this plumb line determine exactly the amount of stone to be removed. After determining this master center point on the mountain, we set a smaller arc and arm on our model in the same relative position. With this small device we would make all our measurements on our model and then enlarge them twelve times and transfer them to the large measuring device on the mountain. Thru this system every face had a measurement made every six inches both vertically and horizontally. These measurements were then painted on the stone and it was thru this means that men totally unfamiliar with sculptural form were able to do this undertaking. In fact all the men employed on the work were local men trained by the sculptor.

Pneumatic drills are used for drilling and the compressed air is provided by large compressors located on the ground and driven by electricity. The air is forced or conveyed to the top of the mountain by a 3″ pipe and then by the use of smaller pipes and rubber hoses is conveyed to the drills.

Over 400,000 tons of granite have been removed from the mountain in carving the figures, at a total expense of slightly more than $900,000. This includes all building, stairways and machinery.

The men are let down over the face of the stone in leather swings similar to bos’n chairs used on ships. These swings are fastened on to ⅜″ steel cables which are in turn fastened on to winches located on the top of the heads. These winches are operated by hand. There are about seven winches on the top of each head. The men are lowered to their place of work by these winches, taking with them their jackhammers or pneumatic tools and other necessary equipment. One man is located in a position where he can see all the men at work, and is “The Callboy,” and has a microphone with a loud speaker at each of the winches and when any of the men working in the swings wants to be raised or lowered they signal this call-boy and he relays the message thru the loud speakers to the winchman. He also keeps the workmen supplied with new drills as they need them, by relaying their requests to the steelman who carries the steel to the men in the swings as it is needed. This steel is used over and over again; as it is dulled it is taken to the blacksmith shop on the ground via the cable car, heated, sharpened, re-heated and tempered and sent back to the mountain again. About 400 of these drills are dulled each day. They drill on an average about four feet before being sharpened. In some places the stone is so hard they will only last or drill about six inches and in other places they will last seven or eight feet before being re-sharpened.

The problem of finance has always been acute in connection with the work of the Rushmore Memorial. The economic hardships of the country made it increasingly difficult to match the Federal appropriation, without which the carving could not go on. The sculptor made repeated trips through the state and beyond its borders to arouse interest in the undertaking. He succeeded in raising some money by publishing a small book about Rushmore. There were never enough funds for as much power or as many men as he would have liked to use. There were long months when the work was stopped altogether. Finally the government took over the whole burden of financing and the work continued regularly, after 1938, being halted only by weather conditions. The sculptor was at last able to employ one or two trained stone carvers to do the finer work of finishing.

The Washington head was unveiled in 1930, with Mr. Cullinan, first chairman of the Rushmore Commission presiding. President Franklin D. Roosevelt came for the unveiling of the Jefferson head in 1936. His unfailing interest and support have insured the finishing of the Memorial. At the unveiling of the face of Abraham Lincoln in 1937, a nation wide radio hookup carried the speeches to all parts of the country and again in 1939, when Governor Bushfield of South Dakota conducted ceremonies celebrating the Golden Jubilee of the State of South Dakota at Mount Rushmore, the radio carried the speeches and music all over the United States. The upper part of the face of Theodore Roosevelt was uncovered at that time.

Mr. Borglum was always scrupulously careful to protect his men from harm and it was his boast that in all his years of hazardous mountain carving no worker was seriously injured. He took no care of himself, however, and physicians said that undoubtedly the strenuous work of carving at that altitude weakened his heart and in March, 1941, it stopped beating. The carving was practically finished; there remained only the finishing of the hands and hair of the four figures and the Rushmore National Memorial Commission entrusted that work to the sculptor’s son, Lincoln Borglum, who had been with his father from the beginning of the work.

The faces of the four presidents, as carved on Mount Rushmore, are approximately 60 feet from chin to forehead; if completed from head to foot the figures would be 465 feet high. The entire head of the sphinx in Egypt is not quite as long as Washington’s nose. The entire cost of the Memorial, including all expenses of carving, buildings and salaries, is $900,000. This is at the rate of less than two dollars for every ton of stone removed, which is a cost incredibly low considering the hardness of the granite and that every piece must be removed in such a way as not to injure the surface behind. On this investment the Federal Government has received from tourists from the one cent gas tax on the increased sale of gas during the years since the work started over two million dollars and the income to South Dakota is over twenty million dollars annually.

THE ROLE OF THE NATIONAL PARK SERVICE

Millions of Americans and liberty-loving people from all over the world have come to the Black Hills of South Dakota to look upon Gutzon Borglum’s _Shrine of Democracy_.

The exact number of visitors to the great granite carvings is not known but each travel season the pilgrimage increases in size.

During the period of construction from 1927 to 1941, when work was under supervision of the Mount Rushmore National Memorial Commission, no accurate records of visitors were kept. Hundreds came each day, however, to keep a fascinated watch over the emergence of the likenesses of the four great presidents from the great stone uplift.

Consecration ceremonies attended by President Coolidge and the unveilings of Washington, Jefferson, Theodore Roosevelt, and Lincoln were attended by thousands of people. Distinguished guests participating in these ceremonies included the late President Franklin D. Roosevelt.

Then in 1939, the Memorial was placed under the supervision of the National Park Service of the Department of Interior. World War II intervened, but in the peace years since the transfer, the flow of visitors has been measured at close to a half million persons each travel season, 419,817 being reported for the 1947 travel year.

Among the nine great memorials in the National Park Service system, Mount Rushmore, by 1947, had risen from seventh to fourth place in attendance. So far as these memorials are concerned, those reporting larger visitations were the Lincoln Memorial, the Jefferson Memorial, and the Washington Monument, all in the District of Columbia.

As with other national parks, monuments, and memorials, Mount Rushmore was designated for inclusion in the National Park system because it had become a most inspiring site of historic significance.

Its present administration is designed to promote and regulate the use of the memorial area to conserve the scenery and the natural and historical objects and to provide for the enjoyment of it in such a manner as to leave it unimpaired for the enjoyment of future generations.

A total of nearly 1,800 acres of the Federal Game Sanctuary in the Harney National Forest now comprises the memorial area. It is under the administration of Superintendent Harry J. Liek with headquarters at Wind Cave National Park. The memorial is directly under Acting Custodian J. Estes Suter.

A brief description follows for Wind Cave National Park and the three national monuments—the Badlands, Jewel Cave, and Devils Tower—that are embraced in the Black Hills and Badlands area of southwestern South Dakota and northeastern Wyoming.

WIND CAVE NATIONAL PARK

Wind Cave is the most widely known of the many limestone caverns found near the margin of the Black Hills. Discovered in 1881, it was created a national park in 1903. The strong currents of wind that blow alternately in and out of the mouth of the cave suggested its name.

Boundaries of the park were extended twice and now embrace a total of 28,000 acres of federally-owned land, supporting a large buffalo herd in its natural habitat and other wildlife, such as elk, antelope, and deer.

Chief feature of the park is the exceptional limestone cavern, noted for its unique boxwork rarely found in other sections of the world. Other crystalline formations in various color shadings line a series of subterranean passages, known to be at least 10 miles in extent.

BADLANDS NATIONAL MONUMENT

In sharp contrast to the verdant Black Hills country, the White River Badlands, a barren, treeless region, lies about 50 miles east of the western foothills.

Here nature has beautified the earth with all shades of buff, cream, pale green, gold, and rose. Fantastically carved erosion forms rise above the valleys, some of them 150 to 300 feet high.

The constantly shifting color and the weird formations make this a region of strong imaginative appeal.

JEWEL CAVE NATIONAL MONUMENT

A unique coating of dogtooth calcite crystals which sparkle like jewels in the light distinguish Jewel Cave from other crystal caverns in the Black Hills and provided its name.

One of the finest stands of virgin ponderosa pine remaining in the Black Hills is found within the monument which was established in 1908. It was originally part of the present Harney National Forest but was transferred to the National Park Service, by Executive Order, in 1934.

DEVILS TOWER NATIONAL MONUMENT

Another unusual natural phenomenon of the Black Hills country is the Devils Tower across the South Dakota state line in Wyoming. This is a great column of igneous rock towering 1,280 feet above the Belle Fourche river, whose course is near the base. Devils Tower has the distinction of being the first national monument created under the Antiquities Act of 1906. It was established by proclamation of September 24 of that year, by President Theodore Roosevelt.

THE ANTIQUITY OF MOUNT RUSHMORE
_By the late_ JOSEPH P. CONNOLLY
_President, South Dakota School of Mines_

At the Battle of the Pyramids, Napoleon is reported to have exhorted his men by saying, “Soldiers, from these pyramids forty centuries look down upon you.” From the standpoint of human history four thousand years represent great antiquity indeed. But as one gazes upon the rugged slopes of Mount Rushmore, he is face to face with antiquity beside which the age of the Egyptian pyramids seems but a moment.

How old is the granite of Rushmore? We have a yardstick by which we can measure that quite accurately. Not far from the mountain, in a subsidiary mass of granite, there was found a few years ago a small piece of coal-black, lustrous mineral known as pitchblende or uraninite, of which the chief constituent is the heaviest known element, uranium. We know that uranium continually undergoes atomic disintegration, changing at a slow, but uniform and measurable rate into lighter elements. The end product of this change is the metal lead. If we submit the specimen of pitchblende to chemical analysis, determine how much lead it contains, how much uranium is still left, it is a comparatively simple calculation to determine from the known rate of change, the number of years that have elapsed since the pitchblende came into existence. That experiment has been performed and the result is one billion four hundred and sixty-five million (1,465,000,000) years. Bear in mind that this enormous figure represents the time that has elapsed since the molten rock came to rest at some depth under the surface of the earth, and cooled sufficiently to crystallize into granite. It represents the age of the solid granite.

But, although the granite of which the mountain is composed dates back to a period almost inconceivably remote, Mount Rushmore itself is much younger. We know that all of the granite mountains of the southern Black Hills were carved out of the rocks by the process of erosion. Field evidence indicates that fairly early in the Tertiary period, approximately thirty million years ago, erosion had carved out the topography of the Black Hills into much the same stage as we see it today. Perhaps Mount Rushmore was not fully born in that period; its form may not yet have been completely sculptured under the chisel of time, but we know that its age must be measured in millions of years and not in centuries.

Mount Rushmore is a child of weathering and erosion. They brought the mountain into being and gave it form. But those relentless parents will not be content to leave their child as they fashioned it. They will continue their work of disintegration on the surface of the rock and along the cracks, until eventually they will completely destroy the mountain they formed, and long before the mountain will have been destroyed, the magnificent carvings of man will disappear. “How long,” we anxiously ask, “will the carvings endure?” Two processes will tend eventually to destroy the memorial, chemical weathering and physical disintegration.

Chemical weathering will take place very slowly, so slowly that if it were the only destructive process we had to consider, we could with some confidence say that the memorial would endure for hundreds of thousands of years. And the progress of chemical weathering will probably be impeded by the sculpturing of the memorial, for on the figures the rock will be smoother, water will drain off more rapidly instead of penetrating, lichens and other vegetation will not have as secure a foothold as on the natural face of the rock, and thus will not contribute to so great an extent their destructive acids to such waters as do penetrate.

Physical disintegration is somewhat more to be feared. This operates in two ways, by exfoliation due to changes in temperature, and by frost action. Differential stresses set up by unequal expansion and contraction, owing to the poor heat conductivity of granite, tend to spall off or _exfoliate_ the surface layers of rock.

When water gets into the cracks and pores of the rocks and freezes, it exerts an enormous pressure, a pressure that will spall off flakes and blocks of rock. The artist and his associates, fully aware of this hazard, have guarded against it. All cracks and fissures have been carefully avoided in the sculpturing so far as is possible. Such as have been impossible to avoid are being sealed to prevent the ingress of water, thus inhibiting to a very large extent both frost action and chemical weathering.

We have traced in part the geological history of the Mount Rushmore region, hoping that by learning something of its past we may predict something of its future. We see the hazards to which the memorial is exposed. We must frankly recognize them and guard against them so far as possible, as it would be folly to ignore them. If the science of geology can do no more in a practical way for mankind than to point out dangers and sound warnings, it does a worth while service. “How long will the memorial last?” Geology cannot answer specifically. An eminent geologist has already given as definite an answer as it is possible to give, and I can do no better than to close by quoting from the address given by the late Dr. C. C. O’Harra at the unveiling of the head of Washington.

“How long will Mount Rushmore last? Many millions of years. The number nobody knows. How long will endure this monumental, sculptured figure of the Father of our Country which today we unveil? One hundred years? Yes. One thousand years? Yes. A hundred thousand years? In all likelihood, yes. A half million years? Possibly so, nobody knows. The time at any rate will be long, far longer than we can readily comprehend. And this doubtless will abundantly suffice.”

THE HALL OF RECORDS AND GREAT STAIRWAY
_By_ LINCOLN BORGLUM

The Hall of Records and Stairway have been part of the Memorial plan from the beginning and are provided for in the so-called “Rushmore Bill” of 1938. A good start has been made in the carving of the Hall, which already has been excavated to the extent of seventy feet. Great care has to be exercised in the use of dynamite in carving this hall, as in carving the faces on the mountain, not to injure the stone which is to remain. Careless explosions of large amounts of powder might crumble the walls.

The Hall is located about two thirds of the way up to the mountain: the entrance to it is in a small gorge or canyon, cut by the ice aeons ago, to the right of the carved faces as one looks at them from below. The Hall is on the opposite side of the gorge from the heads and is not under them. The following is quoted from Mr. Borglum’s plan.

“The façade to the Hall’s entrance is the mountain wall 140 feet high; supporting pylons, cut into the mountain, flank the entrance. The entrance door itself is 12 feet wide and 20 feet high; the walls are plain, dressed granite and of a fine color. I want to finish the inner entrance wall in mosaic of blue and gold lapis. The depth to the door entrance from the outer façade is 20 feet. The door, swung on a six inch offset of the wall, will be of bronze and glass. Small, carefully modeled bronze figures of historic importance from Columbus and Raleigh to the present day will ornament the doors or be modeled into the supporting frame. The walls of the entrance will carry in gilded bronze immediately within the entrance ancient Indian symbols; British, French, Spanish and American seals.

“The floor of the Hall will be 100 by 80 by 32 feet to an arched ceiling. At the height of fifteen feet an historic frieze, four feet wide, will encircle the entire room. Recesses will be cut into these walls to be filled with bronze and glass cabinets, which will hold the records stamped on aluminum sheets, rolled separately and placed in tubes. Busts of our leaders in all human activities will occupy the recesses between the cabinets. The original thought of a hall of human records I developed at Stone Mountain in Georgia and my drawings and full plans are extant; that was never completed.

“The records of electricity, beginning with Franklin, which has given us light, heat, music, the radio, the telegraph, the telephone and controls in power the extent of which we can hardly imagine, must be here, together with the records of literature, the records of travel, immigration, religious development and also the record of perhaps the largest contribution that we have made to humanity, which has been free controlled peace, a government of the people, by and for the people. Struggle as we will that great contribution is today the cause for the real unrest of Europe. Despotism, tyranny of every form is fighting us wherever it can, to take away from humanity the power freedom gives it—the power that freedom has given America.

“The Hall will be reached by a monumental flight of steps varying from 15 to 20 feet in width, which will ascend the mountain in front, a little to one side of the sculpture, rising from a great granite disk or platform in the canyon below, which may be used as a rostrum from which speakers may address the public occupying the amphitheater facing the great group.

“These steps of granite and cement will be provided with seats at intervals of every fifty feet; they will have a five inch rise and an eighteen inch tread. The ascension from the foot of the steps to the floor of the great entrance is four hundred feet; the entrance way from the steps’ landing to the great Hall is 190 feet; the floor of this Hall, reached by three steps, is two feet above the floor of the entrance way in the canyon; this to provide for proper drainage.”

Owing to repeated requests from important organizations of women, the urging of some senators and congressmen and Mr. Borglum’s own realization of the part women have played in the development of our country, plans had been under way for some years to include women in the great Shrine of Democracy. There was no room in the rock which contains the heads of the four presidents and the only other place seemed to be the west wall of the granite cliff, or in the hall of records. To quote again from Mr. Borglum, from a letter written in January 1940: “If we decide that the west side of the mountain is suitable, I am for it. We must work out a design that is fitting and in no sense harmful in the matter of lighting or location to subjects determined upon and I am entirely in favor of carving the faces of two or three women. If that is determined upon, these figures will be near what has been known in the Rushmore Law as the Inscription and there will be a special paragraph given to the work and services of women. The original inscription referred to the framing of the Declaration of Independence; that was Jefferson’s work and the second was the Constitution. That was Washington’s greatest service. The third dealt with the purchase of the Louisiana Territory and the fourth, fifth, and sixth, the progress towards the south and southwest, involving Florida, Texas and California, which included Arizona, a portion of Nevada, Utah and a portion of Idaho. The seventh paragraph brought in the Oregon cession from England and the purchase of Alaska. There was one paragraph for Lincoln and one for the finishing of the Panama Canal, which was achieved by Theodore Roosevelt.

“So by these suggestions you will see that a splendid paragraph can be developed for the part women have played in the development of the nation.” In another part of the letter Mr. Borglum made a place for women in the Hall of records and even suggested that a special hall might be carved for them, as there is ample rock for many rooms.

Calvin Coolidge had been asked to collaborate on the inscription and wrote the first two paragraphs. Mr. Borglum stood strongly for “Justice” in the wording, whereas Mr. Coolidge insisted upon “Justice under the Law.” Newspaper accounts exaggerated the discussion, which unfortunately was terminated by Mr. Coolidge’s death.

GEORGE WASHINGTON

_In carving the head of George Washington, Mr. Borglum studied all the known portraits of him and drew heavily on certain famous likenesses which he preferred because he believed them most faithful to the character of the man. Borglum was confronted by an extraordinary problem. He had undertaken to place his sculpture on a mountain peak over 6000 feet above sea level. His face of Washington, tall as a five-story building, was to be far up in the sky “where the clouds fold about it like a great scarf, where the stars blink about its head, and the moon hides behind a lock of hair.” As Borglum himself pointed out, it has been the practice of the sculptors of history, immediately they departed from the normal dimensions of men, to conventionalize and simplify their faces and to generalize the portraiture, and, in so doing, lose those qualities which gave distinction. Such methods had no appeal to Borglum. Vehemently, he brushed aside “the claptrap standards of Good Enough.” The faces he placed upon the mountain to gaze down upon hundreds of generations of mankind must be true, great, and noble faces, and that of Washington would be the gauge of all the rest. Borglum spent thirteen years digging into every corner of Washington’s life in order that his portrait might say the last word about the man who is called the Father of his Country. He made an extensive study of his character and was deeply impressed by the picture presented by Thomas Jefferson in the following letter to Dr. Walter Jones, dated at Monticello, January 2, 1814_:

I think I knew Gen. Washington intimately and thoroly; and were I called on to delineate his character, it should be in terms like these.

His mind was great and powerful, without being of the very first order; his penetration strong, tho not so acute as that of a Newton, Bacon, or Locke; and as far as he saw, no judgment was ever sounder. It was slow in operation, being little aided by invention or imagination, but sure in conclusion. Hence the common remark of his officers, of the advantage he derived from councils of war, where hearing all suggestions, he selected whatever was best; and certainly no general ever planned his battles more judiciously. But if deranged during the course of the action, if any member of his plan was dislocated by sudden circumstances, he was slow in readjustment. The consequence was that he often failed in the field, and rarely against an enemy in station, as at Boston and York.

He was incapable of fear, meeting personal dangers with the calmest unconcern. Perhaps the strongest feature in his character was prudence, never acting until every circumstance, every consideration, was maturely weighed; refraining if he saw a doubt, but when once decided, going thru with his purpose, whatever obstacles opposed.

His integrity was most pure, his justice the most inflexible I have ever known, no motives of interest or consanguinity, of friendship, or hatred, being able to bias his decision. He was, indeed, in every sense of the words a wise, a good, and a great man. His temper was naturally high toned; but reflection and resolution had obtained a firm and habitual ascendancy over it. If ever, however, it broke its bonds, he was most tremendous in his wrath.

In his expenses he was honorable, but exact; liberal in contribution to whatever promised utility; but frowning and unyielding on all visionary projects and all unworthy calls on his charity. His heart was not warm in its affections; but he exactly calculated every man’s value, and gave him a solid esteem proportioned to it.

His person, you know, was fine, his stature exactly what one would wish, his deportment easy, erect and noble; the best horseman of his age, and the most graceful figure that could be seen on horseback. Altho in the circle of his friends, where he might be unreserved with safety, he took a free share in conversation, his colloquial talents were not above mediocrity, possessing neither copiousness of ideas nor fluency of words. In public, when called on for a sudden opinion, he was unready, short, and embarrassed.

Yet he wrote readily, rather diffusely, in an easy and correct style. This he had acquired by conversation with the world, for his education was merely reading, writing, and common arithmetic, to which he added surveying at a later day.

His time was employed in action chiefly, reading little, and that only in agriculture and English history. His correspondence became necessarily extensive, and, with journalizing his agricultural proceedings, occupied most of his leisure hours within doors.

On the whole, his character was, in its mass, perfect, in nothing bad, in few points indifferent; and it may truly be said that never did nature and fortune combine more perfectly to make a man great, and to place him in the same constellation with whatever worthies have merited from man an everlasting remembrance. For his was the singular destiny and merit of leading the armies of his country successfully thru an arduous war, for the establishment of its independence; of conducting its councils thru the birth of a government, new in its forms and principles, until it had settled down into a quiet and orderly train; and of scrupulously obeying the laws thru the whole of his career, civil and military, of which the history of the world furnishes no other example....

THOMAS JEFFERSON