Chapter XIX: The Rocky Mountains (2)

-- -- -- frost on, 414

-- -- -- sun on, 415

-- -- film, 414

-- -- forms of, 410, 411

-- -- marble, 411, 414

-- -- perforated, 414

-- -- soft breakable, 410

-- -- trap, 410

-- -- unbreakable, 410, 411

Cups, drinking, 98

Cushion, rubber, 99

Cuts and scratches, 485

Cutting. _See under_ Steps

Cylindre, the, 560

Damp, risks of, 5

Dancing, as training, 4, 66, 156

-- movements analogous to those of climbing, 156, 157, 208

Danger, 26, 27, 72, 149, 152, 237, 260, 261

De Déchy’s _Kaukasus Reisen und Forschungen_ cited, 509

Descent, 42, 184-99

Detached rock, 176, 177

Diarrhœa, 481

Direction, the sense of, 345-7

Disappointment, 24

Discipline of parties, 2, 3

District, the choice of, 43-8

Dogtooth Range, the, 580

Dollfuss in May, 461

Dom, the, 459

Doubled rope, the, in descent, 192-5

-- on glaciers, 317-21

Down, climbing, 184-99

Drinks, 7, 8

Dru, the, 47, 152

Dunagiri, 529

Dysentery, 481, 482

Earth glissade, 182

Earthquakes, 277, 278

Ebnefluh, ski-work on the, 398, 459, 468

Eckenstein, Mr., crampons designed by, 92, 96, 288

-- ice-axe designed by, 92

-- on knots for Alpine ropes, 94, 95

-- on nails for boots, 83

-- on ropes for Alpine work, 93, 94, 95

Elbrus, 509

End man, dangers of his fall, 260

Equipment, for Alps, 80-8

-- for Arctic mountaineering, 498, 499

-- for Caucasus, 512-4

-- for Corsica, 517, 518

-- for Himalaya, 532-5

-- for mountain ski-ing, 402

-- for Norway, 539, 540

-- for Pyrenees, 566-9

-- for rock climbing in Britain, 88, 89

-- for Rocky Mountains, 588-90

_Ewige Schnee_, 330

Exceptional ascents, 120-2, 149

Excitement, dangers of over-, 16

Exercise, forms of preliminary, 4, 156, 158, 159, 181

Exhaustion, 26, 27

Experts, guide and amateur as, 111, 112, 118, 119

Eyes, right use of the, in climbing, 146, 147, 166, 184, 185, 186,
187, 192, 312, 313, 321, 370-396

Face-inward position in descent, 190, 191

---- in glissading, 363, 364

Face-outward position in descent, 188, 189

Face-sideways position in descent, 189, 190

Fall, 256

-- after a, 262-4

Fallibility, human, 256, 257

Fatigue, temper as a sign of, 20

Fear, 26, 27

Feet, care of the, 4, 5, 83

Fell climbers, 142

Fellowship, necessity of good, 3

Fencing as training, 4, 66

Fiescherhorn, the, 468

Finsteraarhorn, the, 442

Finsteraarjoch Pass, in winter, 397

_Firn_, 285, 330

First man on the rope, duty of the, 237-9

_Flysch_, 425

Fog. _See_ Mist

Föhn, the, 59, 60, 61, 417-22

-- effects of, on snow, 326, 328, 377, 380, 412, 413

-- in spring, 421, 422, 436

-- in winter, 418-21

-- the dry, 418, 430

-- the wet, 413, 418, 429, 430

Folgefond, the, 542

Following and leading, 217, 218

Food, the choice of, 6

-- -- for tropics, 486, 487

Foot brake, the, 195

Footing, the right, for guide and climber, 125-9

Footwork, 140, 141, 153-8, 161, 176

-- for balance climbing, 282-4

Forbes, Prof. J. D., his _Norway and its Glaciers_ cited, 536

Fourcanade, the, 556, 562, 563

Freak climbs, 182, 183

Freshfield’s _Round Kangchenjunga_ cited, 527

Freshfield and Sella’s _The Exploration of the Caucasus_ cited, 509,
515

Front, the rope in, 214, 215

Frost-bite, precautions against, 5, 288 n.

-- remedies for, 10

Frostisen, 544

Fruit ice, 8

Funicula, 254, 255

Furka, the, 464

Gabbro, 542, 543

Gabiétou, the, 560

Gaiters, 84

Galdhöpiggen, 544

Galenstock, the, 463, 464

Galmihorn, the, 459

Garhwal, 528

Gauli Hut, the, 457

Géant, the Dent du, 152, 201, 278

Geology, value of knowledge of, 425, 426

Giddiness, 9, 28-31, 182

Gjækkevarre, the, 542

Glacier falls, 311, 314

-- mills, 310

Glaciers, 279-81, 285, 308-24

-- in the Himalaya, 531

-- in New Zealand, 554

-- in Norway, 545, 546

-- in the Pyrenees, 556-62

-- in the Rocky Mountains, 586

-- in Spitsbergen, 503, 504

-- practice in ice work on, 285, 286

-- ski-ing on, in winter, 448-56

-- snow-covered, 314-22

Glacier work, 308-24

Glasses, field, 97, 98

-- for prevention of snow-blindness, 11, 97, 321, 322, 534

-- for reconnoitring, 395

Glazed rock, risks of, 170, 171, 193

Glissading, 348-69

-- alternate, 362, 363

-- arrest of, 352

-- face-inward, 363, 364

-- jumping while, 357, 358

-- on claws, 365, 366

-- -- in couloirs, 365

-- on earth, 182

-- on grass, 368, 369

-- on heather, 368, 369

-- on ice, 349-52

-- -- position for, 349-52

-- on sand, 366

-- on scree, 366-8

-- on snow, 353-66

-- on volcanic ash, 366

-- -- braking, 354, 355, 358, 359, 360

-- positions for, 353-61

-- -- steering, 355-7

-- stone tests for, 361

-- the axe brake for, 354, 358, 359

-- the foot brake for, 358, 359

-- the rope in, 361, 362

Glittertind, 544

Gloves, 10, 86, 89, 195, 258

Goats as a danger, 271

Grand Trunk Pacific Railway, the, 582-4

Grease on the face, 11, 90, 97

Gredetschthal, the, 459

Grépon, the, 47, 152, 385

Grimsel region, the, 425, 463

Grip climbing, 142, 143, 145, 174, 176

Gritstone, 180

Grove’s _The Frosty Caucasus_ cited, 509

_Grundlawinen. See_ Avalanches, ground

Gspaltenhorn, the, 447

Guide as mountaineer, the ideal, 107, 108

-- companionship of amateur and, 128, 129, 136, 137

-- nature, 123-37

Guides, Alpine, changed conditions of, 103, 104

-- as experts, 111, 112, 119

-- care for their comfort, 126, 127

-- estimation of their qualities, 53-5

-- management of, 123-37

-- misconceptions of their function, 101-3

-- question of engaging, 118-22

-- traditional idea of, 102

Guides’ books, hints as to writing up, 53-5

Gullies, 141, 142, 268

-- glissading in winter, 368

Gurla Mandhata, 528, 529

‘Half step’ trick, the, 37

Halts, 40, 77, 78, 332

-- the rope during, 251, 252

Handholds, to cut, in ice, 298

Hands, use of the, 161-7

Hat, the, 85, 89

Headaches, 9

Health, importance of, 3, 4

Heart, training and development of the, 67, 68

Height, advantages of, 71

-- the psychological effect of, 31, 32, 293

Helmet, woollen, 86

Hill-shock. _See_ Hysteria

Himalaya, the, climbing conditions in, 523, 525, 526

-- configuration of, 522, 523

-- glaciers of, 529

-- management of expedition to, 523-525

-- mountaineering in, 522-35

-- -- clothing for, 534

-- -- cost of, 531, 532

-- -- equipment for, 528, 532, 533, 535

-- -- food for, 533

-- -- hints for, 533, 534

-- -- instruments for, 535

-- -- season for, 526

-- -- use of claws in, 288 n.

-- topography of, 527-9

Hindu Khush, the, 530, 531

_Hochgebirgskalk_, 425

Holding the rope, 225-7

Holds, anatomical, 244

-- cling, 161-2

-- finger, 161

-- friction, 160, 161, 169

-- on rock and ice, practice of, 69

-- over, 162

-- press, 163, 164, 179

-- pull, 174, 177, 179

-- push, 163

-- side, 162

-- under, 162

Humours, preventable, 14-7

Hurry, the blunder of, 38, 39, 40, 76, 77, 332

Hut usages, 48-50

Hysteria, or hill-shock, 26-8

Ice, black, 285, 288, 294, 374

-- blue, 284

-- glacier, 284

-- grainy, 284

-- -- hard, 290, 291, 545

-- honeycombed, 374

-- -- rotten, 290, 294

-- -- soft, 290

-- snow, 285

Ice axe. _See_ Axe

Ice claws. _See under_ Claws

-- climbing in relation to rock climbing, 282-4

-- craft, 282-324

-- fragments, danger from falling, 275, 276

-- sky, the, 393, 394

Imitation, in collective climbing, 211-3

Incudine, the, 520

Infection of leader by party, 25, 26

Injured man, a danger to his party, 260, 261

Instruments, 57, 535

Ireland, cliff climbing in, 181, 182, 391

Joanne’s _Pyrénées_ cited, 570

Jungfrau, first winter ascent of, 397

Justedals-brae, the, 545, 546

Kamet, 529

Kasbek, 512

Kashmir and Karakoram, 530

Kellas, Dr., on Sikkim, cited, 527, 528

_Kletterschuhe_, 96, and _see_ Soles

Knee, right use of the, in climbing, 146, 160

Knickerbockers, 85

Knots for ropes for mountaineering, 94, 95, 96, 255

-- tests of, 96

Knutshultind, 544

Kumaon, 528

Lakes, the, 140, 152

-- snowcraft in, 342

Lantern, folding, 52, 98

Lava, old, 180

Leader, duties of the, 1, 6, 8, 9, 10, 13, 18, 23, 39, 43, 44, 48-55,
125, 150, 151, 237-9, 323, 332

-- guide or amateur as, 109, 111

-- qualifications for, 1, 2, 3, 4, 9, 14, 15, 16, 19, 20, 21, 25, 33,
56, 150, 151, 237, 238, 239, 321

-- responsibilities of, 2, 6, 9, 10, 16, 17, 27, 32, 34, 35, 36, 38,
39, 111, 133, 134, 150, 151, 153, 227, 237-9, 260, 261, 263

Le Blonde’s, Mrs., _Mountaineering in the Land of the Midnight Sun_
cited, 536

Leeches, 484

Lens, 471, 473

Light, to procure a, 52

Lillienfeld ski, 398

-- system, 399, 401

Limestone, 180, 181

Loads, risks of unnecessary, 22, 75, 76

Long rope, the, 198, 199

Longstaff, Dr., on the Purcell Range, cited, 579

Loops in ropes for glacier work, 320

_Lumière autochrome_, the, 477

Lungs, training and development of the, 67, 68

Lunn’s _Cross Country Ski-ing_ cited, 398 n., 402

Lyskamm, the, 4

Malaria, 480

Maps, 98

Marble, 180

-- crust, 411, 414

Marboré, the, 557

Mascot, uses of a, 34

Matterhorn, the, 57, 112, 113, 201, 271, 272, 381, 386

Maupas, the, 562

May in the High Alps, 456-61, 463, 464

Medicine chest for tropics, 485, 486

Medicines, 100

Merzbacher’s _Aus den Hochregionen des Kaukasus_ cited, 509, 515

Mind, influence of, on the body, 14, 129, 240

Mist and cloud, uses of, 389, 390

-- dangers of, 277, 343, 346

Moine, the, 152

Mont Perdu, the, 559, 560, 561

Monte Cinto, 520

-- Corona, 519

-- d’Oro, 519

-- Padro, 519

-- Renosa, 519

-- Rosa, 446, 457, 468, 469

-- -- ski-ing on, 397

Moraines, 178, 208, 292

Mosquitoes, 480, 540

Moods, abnormal, 23-8

Mount Assiniboine, 575

-- Ball, 575

-- Beaver, 579

-- Cook, 551, 553

-- Duncan, 579

-- Edith Cavell, 575, 583

-- Fitzwilliam, 583

-- Hector, 576

-- Moloch, 577

-- Robson, 584, 585

-- Sir Sandford, 579

-- Torlesse, 553

Mountain photography, 471-8

-- sickness, 9, 10

Mountaineer, the amateur, contrasted with the guide, 103-8

-- the composite, 106

-- the moderate, 116-8

-- the true, 280

Mountaineering in winter, 397

Muffler, 86

Mumm’s _Five Months in the Himalaya_ cited, 528 n.

Mummery’s _My Climbs in the Alps and Caucasus_ cited, 509

Mürren, 469

Muscular fitness, 9, 65, 66

Nails, special, for climbing boots, 82, 83, 154

Nanda Devi, 529

Napes ridges, the, 152

Natives, management of, 494, 495

Nepal, 528

Nerve, 70

-- exhaustion, 9, 26, 27

Nerves, 68, 69

_Névé_, 285, 330, 335, 448, 465, 470

Neve’s _Picturesque Kashmir_ cited, 530 n.

New Zealand, flora and fauna of, 553, 554

-- glaciers in, 554

-- guides for the Alps of, 549

-- mountains of, 550, 551, 555

-- routes to, 548, 549

-- the Southern Alps of, 548-55

-- topography and structure of, 551-3

-- weather of, 550

Night dangers. _See_ Benightment

Night, hints for walking at, 51-3

Norway, glaciers of, 540, 541, 542, 543

-- guide books and literature, 536, 537

-- local conditions in, 544-7

-- mountaineering in, 536-47

-- -- equipment for, 539, 540

-- -- expense of, 538, 539

-- -- guides for, 540, 541, 542

-- -- season for, 537

-- mountains of, 542-4

-- routes of access to, 538

-- topography and structure of, 542-4

Norway and Sweden, wind-swept snow in, 408

Numbers suitable for parties, 34, 35

Oberaarjoch, the, 463, 464

Oberland, the, crossed on ski, 397

-- its opportunities and characteristics, 45, 46

-- weather in the, 57

Obstinacy, hysterical, 28

Old age, climbing in, 73

Oppenheim’s _New Climbs in Norway_ cited, 536

Order, the, on the rope, 227-36

-- of moving on the rope, the, 236, 237;
and _see under_ Rope

Outfit for the Alps, 91-100

Outram’s _In the Heart of the Canadian Rockies_ cited, 574, 581

Overhang, in descent, 194, 195

Pace, adjustment of, to the task, 74-9

-- setting the, 37

Packe’s _Guide to the Pyrénées_ cited, 570

Paglia Orba, 521

Palmer’s _Mountaineering and Exploration in the Selkirks_ cited, 578
n., 579

Panic, 27, 272

Parasites, body, 484

Passing ahead, 37, 38

Paulcke, 397

Pegs and aids, 96, 200-3

Pennines, characteristics of the, 46

Perdighero, 561

Persistence in uncertain weather, 63, 64

Perversity, mountain, 267-72

Photography, mountain, 471-8

-- -- choice of subjects, 475-7

-- -- equipment for, 471-5

-- -- in colour, 477

-- -- stereoscopic, 477-8

Pic d’Albe, 562

-- d’Astazou, 560

-- de Bécibéri, 559

-- d’Enfer, 557

-- Long, 559, 561

-- du Midi d’Ossau, 556, 557

-- Moulières, 562

-- du Munia, 561

-- de Néthou, 559, 562

-- de la Pique, 562

-- de Pinède, 561

-- du Port d’Oo, 561

-- des Posets, 559, 562

-- de Salenques, 562

Pitons. _See under_ Pegs

Port de Venasque, 562

Positions in descent, 187-91

Powder snow, 326, 327, 405-11

-- -- effect of sun on, 408-11

-- -- -- wind on, 407, 408

-- -- the ideal ski-ing surface, 406

-- -- reconnoitring, 374

-- -- in spring, 412-7, 430

-- -- in winter, 411, 412

Preparations, psychological, for ascent, 129, 130

Punta di Capella, 520

Purcell Range, the, 579-80

Putties, 89, 125, 289

Pyramid Peak, 586

Pyrenees, the, 556-71

-- centres for climbing, 560

-- huts and inns, 566

-- literature of the, 570

-- maps of, 564-6

-- mountaineering in, 556, 557, 563

-- -- cost of, 569

-- -- equipment for, 566-9

-- -- guides for, 563, 564

-- topography and structure of, 557-563

Quairat, the, 561

Quarries, scrambling in, for practice, 181

Quartz, its peculiarities and risks, 179, 180

Rabot’s _Au Cap Nord_ cited, 542

Reach, advantages of, in climbing, 71

Reconnoitring, 370-96

-- angle on snow, 375-7

-- couloirs, 382-4

-- glaciers, 311-4, 381, 382

-- the half-seen, 390, 391

-- ice, 374, 381, 382

-- importance of, 370-3

-- ridges, 386, 387

-- rock, 384

-- rock faces, 384-6

-- rocks in Britain, 388-90

-- slabs, 387, 388

-- snow cornices, 377-80

-- snow surface conditions, 374, 375

-- the unseen, 391-6

-- wind and snow signs, 380, 381

Réquin, the, 152

Rescue parties, 266, 267

Rhone Valley, the upper, 424

Rhythm, balance, 144, 156, 157

-- collective, 209-11

-- of movement, importance of, 140, 141, 143, 145, 148, 156, 157

-- of step, importance of, 39, 40, 41, 76, 77, 78, 79, 145, 148

Rib riding, 169

Ring, use of the, 193

-- risks of the, 194, 198

Ringworm, 484

Ripple mark, 407

Roche Miette, the, 587

Rock avalanche, 271

Rock climber, the good, 138, 146-9, 171

Rock climbing, 138-208

-- -- in relation to ice climbing, 282-4

-- -- development of, 138-44

Rock sky, the, 393

Rocks, knowledge of structure of, 138

-- in Britain, 388, 389

Rocky Mountains, access to the, 574, 591

-- -- literature of the, 574, 586

-- -- maps of the, 576, 579, 581, 585, 586

-- -- minor ranges of the, 580

-- -- modes and cost of travel in the, 587-8

-- -- mountaineering in the, 572-91

-- -- -- guides and equipment for, 578, 588-90

-- -- topography of the, 572-87

Rope, best handgrip on the, 225

-- carrying the, 253

-- choice of the, 93-4

-- coiling the, 246, 252, 253

-- in collective climbing, 213-7

-- danger of abuse of the, 216, 217

-- drying the, 253

-- first man on the, 237-9

-- frequent examination of the, necessity for, 253

-- on ice, 305-8

-- kinks in the, 253

-- length of the, 253, 254

-- management of the, 246-55

-- order of moving on the, 236-7

-- order on the, 227-36

-- -- on difficult or new ascents and descents, 228

-- -- on direct ascents and descents, 227, 228

-- -- on easy ascents and descents, 228

-- -- on traverses, 229-32

-- -- with beginners, 233-6

-- right use of the, in descent, 191-9

-- -- on snow, 335-7

-- second man on the, 239-45

-- third man on the, 245-6;
and _see under_ Doubled, Knots, Long, Funicula, and Halts

“Rope-riding,” 217

Rosenlaui, 461

Ross’s _A Climber in New Zealand_ cited, 554

Rubber soles, 155, 182

Rucksack, the, 5, 91

Rulten, 545

Running as training, 4

Russell’s _Grandes Ascensions des Pyrénées_ cited, 570

-- _Souvenirs d’un Montagnard_ cited, 570

Safety-pins, 85, 86

Sandstone, risks and peculiarities of, 180

Sark, the island of, cliff climbing on, 181

Schaeffer, Mrs., her _Old Indian Trails_ cited, 584 n.

_Schneebrett. See_ Wind slab

Schrader, M., on the Pyrenees, quoted, 557

Scotland, cliff climbing in, 181, 182

Scottish mountains, snow craft on, 342

Scree, 178, 179

-- glissading on, 366, 368

-- in relation to ski-ing, 426

Sea cliffs, 181, 182

Sealskins for ski-ing, 402, 449

Season, habit of the, 62, 63

Second man on the rope, the, duty of the, 239-45

-- -- -- in case of accident, 262, 263

Selkirk mountains, the, 577-9

_Séracs_, 275, 301, 313, 335

Shirts, 85, 88

Signals, code of rescue, 51, 266

Sikkim, 527

Silence, dangers of, 18, 20, 51, 238

-- uses of, 23, 240

Simla Hill States, the, 529

Sitting glissading, 360, 361

Skagastölstind, 542, 544

Skating movements, analogous to those of climbing, 156

_Skavla_, 408

Ski, mountaineering on, 397-470

-- Lillienfeld, 398

-- for mountain work, 402

-- for summer work, 64, 397, 469, 470

Ski-ing in the High Alps, 399, 400

-- Lillienfeld system of, 399, 401

-- Norwegian style of, 399

-- technique of, 398-401

-- turns, 400, 401

-- Zdarsky’s system of, 398

Skin diseases, 483

Skipping as training, 4, 66

Sky, ice as affecting its tint, 393, 394

-- rock as affecting its tint, 393

-- snow as affecting its tint, 392, 393

Skye, climbing in, 152

Slab climbing, 142, 143, 166, 167, 387, 388

Slate, its peculiarities and risks, 179

Sleeping sack, 99, 498, 499, 513, 532, 567, 589

Sleeplessness, 483

Slides, photographic, 473, 474

Sling for axe, 93, 298

Slings, rope, 193, 194

Slingsby’s _Norway the Northern Playground_ cited, 536

Slips, how to accept, 41, 42

Smoking, 89

Snake-bite, 484

Snow a bar to starting, 63, 64

-- avalanches, 423-42

-- bridges, 337

-- cornices, 338

-- craft, 16, 325-46

-- -- for ski-ing, 403, 404

-- crusted, 331

-- -- reconnoitring, 374

-- granular, 416

-- in couloirs, 340-2

-- new, risks of, 327

-- pink, 546

-- powdery, 326, 327;
and _see under_ Powder snow

-- the rope and axe on, 335-7

-- sky, the, 392, 393

-- slides, danger of, 273-5

-- slopes, reconnoitring, 375-7

-- -- security of, 329, 333-5

-- soft, its risks and difficulties, 330-332

-- spring, for ski-ing, 412-7

-- steps, 333, 334

-- summer, for ski-ing, 422, 423

-- travail, 330-3

-- winter, for ski-ing, 411, 412

Snow-blindness, 11, 343

Snow-line, the, 459

Snow-water, its supposed danger, 8

Social composition of a party, 32-6, 109, 110, 150

Socks, 4, 5, 10, 83, 87, 88, 89, 155, 156

Soles, hard, 153, 154

-- rubber, 155, 182

-- soft, 154, 155, 171, 179, 284

Solitary climbing, 151, 152

-- -- unjustifiable on snow or ice, 315

Soum de Raymond, 560

Spectacles. _See under_ Glasses

Spender and Llewellyn Smith’s _Through the High Pyrenees_ cited, 570

Spitsbergen, coast of, 500-2

-- glaciers of, 501, 502, 503, 504

-- interior of, 502-4

-- modes of access to, 497, 498

-- mountaineering in, 497-505

-- -- cost of, 505

-- mountains of, 502-4

Spring in the High Alps, 456-68

-- snow for ski-ing, 412-7

-- Time-table for ski-ing, the, 466-8

Springing the rope, 197, 198

Stances, on rock, 218, 219, 223-7, 246, 247

-- on snow, 336, 337

-- on ice, 298, 306, 307

Stedtind, 544

Stemming turn, the, 400, 401

Step-cutting practice, 182

Steps, cutting, 294-302

-- using, 302-5

Stereoscopic photography, 477, 478

Stick, use of the, in ski-ing, 399, 400, 401, 442, 450, 454

Stimulants, their use, 7, 8

-- -- in the tropics, 487

Stockings, 83, 86, 155

Stomach, care of the, 4, 5, 86, 479, 480, 482

Stones, dangers of falling, 250, 251, 268-73

-- reconnoitring couloirs for, 382-4

-- -- faces for, 386

Storm Mountain, 575

Strahlegg Pass, crossing in winter, 397

Strandaatind, 543

Strata, rock, importance of acquaintance with, 383-5, 388, 425, 426

Stutfield and Collie’s _Climbs and Explorations in the Canadian
Rockies_, cited, 575 n., 580 n., 581

Subconsciousness, sphere of, in mountaineering, 69

Sulitelma, 544

Summer ski. _See under_ Ski

Sun, dangers of, 11

Sunburn, 90, 97

Sunstroke, 12, 482

Sutherlandshire, cliff climbing in, 181

Sweater, 86, 88

Sweet-stuffs, value of, 6, 7

Swimming as training, 66

Taillon, the, 557, 560

Teeth, care of the, 479, 480, 482, 483

Tehri Garhwal, 529

Telemark turn, the, 400, 401

Temper of mountaineering party, the, 19-23

Tennis as training, 4

Tents, 99, 513;
and _see_ Equipment

-- for tropics, 491-3

-- Mummery, 492, 499, 533

-- _teepee_, 588

-- Whymper, 491, 532

Thawing of snow, the, 409, 415, 416

Thigh brake, the, 195, 196

Third man on the rope, duty of the, 245-6

Thirst, 7, 8

Thunderstorms, danger of, 276

Tirich Mir, 531

Tour de Marboré, 560

Tourist, the mountaineer, 112, 113, 118

Trade goods for tropics, 494, 495

Training, 65-73

Trap crust, 410

Tricouni nails for boots, 82, 83

Tripod for camera, 472, 474

Tropical diseases, 480, 481

-- mountaineering, 479-96

-- -- equipment for, 486-93

-- -- health in, 479-86

-- -- management of expedition for, 493-6

Tryfan, the buttresses of, 152

U.H.U. Stollen nails for boots, 82

Underwear, 88, and _see_ Equipment

Unsound rock, 173-9

Unusual rock 179-83

Urbachthal, 424, 457

Val d’Evoléna, 46

Vanesta packing-case, the, 493, 494, 532

Verascope camera, the, 478

Vertigo, 28-31

Vignemale, the, 557, 561

Waistcoat, the, 85

Wales, cliffs in, 142, 152, 181, 182, 391

-- North, snowcraft in, 342

Walking as training, 4

-- manners, 36-41

-- notes on hill-, 41-3

Warmth, the conservation of, 5

Warning, to give, 257, 258

Water-bottles, 98

Waterproof cape, 86

Weather, the, 56-64

-- alternating, 44, 45

-- confusing, 342-5

-- evil, 276, 277

-- signs, 60-2

Weight handicaps, 75, 76

Wet rock, risks of, 169, 170

Wetterhorn, the, 456, 457

-- -- first winter ascent of, 397

Wheeler’s _Selkirk Range_, etc., cited, 577

White’s _Sikkim and Bhutan_ cited, 527

Wilcox’s _Camping in the Canadian Rockies_ cited, 575 n.

Will, function of, in climbing, 68

Wind, an enemy, 11, 258, 276, 343

-- a friend, 277, 380, 381

-- as weather portent, 59-60

-- effect of, on snow, 326

-- protection against, 5

Windboard, 407, 408, 432

Wind ‘signs,’ 380, 381

Wind slab, 432, 433

Wine, 7

Winter conditions in the High Alps, 442-56

-- mountaineering, 397

-- snow for ski-ing, 411, 412

Woman mountaineers, dress for, 89, 90

Wood-chopping as training, 4

Young climbers, care of, 13, 14

Zermatt, weather at, 56, 381

Zinal Rothhorn, 446, 447, 462

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Transcriber’s Notes

Obvious errors or omissions in punctuation have been corrected.

Page 78: “when the deterioriation” changed to “when the deterioration”

Page 159: “changing but steelly arch” changed to “changing but steely arch”

Page 333-334: “possibility of the i consumption” changed to “possibility of the consumption”

Page 425: “The hard ‘Hochgebirgsalk,’” changed to “The hard ‘Hochgebirgskalk,’”

Page 564: “Ministère de l’Interieur” changed to “Ministère de l’Intérieur”

Page 580: The footnote 2 _Ibid._ v. 20, 44, 82. was removed from the page because it has no corresponding marker in the text.

Page 589: “ordinary’s day’s travel” changed to “ordinary day’s travel”

In the index, “d’Astazon” changed to “d’Astazou”