Chapter II: Part 2

This species, exquisite in form and flavour, is one of the prettiest ornaments of our lawns, downs, and short pastures at the fall of the year. In these situations it may be found in every part of the kingdom. It is essentially waxy, and feels and looks precisely as if made of the purest virgin wax. The stem is firm, stuffed, and attenuated, and the gills (singularly distant from each other) run far down the stem; it changes colour a little when getting old, at which time it is unfit for culinary purposes.

A batch of fresh specimens, broiled or stewed with taste and care, will prove agreeable, succulent, and flavorous eating, and may sometimes be obtained when other species are not to be had.

Several allied species enjoy the reputation of being esculent, notably _H. pratensis_ and _H. niveus_; and my friend Mr. F. C. Penrose has eaten, and speaks favourably of, _H. psittacinus_—a highly ornamental yellow species, with a green stem, sometimes common enough in rich pastures (and generally _said_ to be very suspicious).

=Clouded Mushroom.= Fig. 24.

(_Agaricus_ [_Clitocybe_] _nebularis._) 78.

Common (in certain places), but rare near London. This species appears late in the autumn and generally grows on dead leaves in moist places, principally on the borders of woods. The top is lead-colour or grey, at first _clouded_ grey,—hence its name; the stem is stout, elastic, and striate, with the _white_ gills running considerably down the ringless stem, in the manner shown in the drawing.

The gastronomic excellences of the species are well known. When gathered, it has a wholesome and powerful odour; and when cooked, the firm and fragrant flesh has a particularly agreeable and palatable taste.

=Giant Puff-ball.= Fig. 25.

(_Lycoperdon giganteum._) 930.

This species of puff-ball is not always a “giant,” and may frequently be found no larger than an apple. It is somewhat local, and I think only attains gigantic proportions in certain situations. I have, for instance, seen specimens growing in rich pastures in Nottinghamshire, so much larger than the specimen figured that the latter would appear a perfect _dwarf_ beside them. It may be found, in some of the meadows near Highgate and Hampstead, quite as big as our figure; but indeed there is little fear of a mistake, if attention is paid to the smooth skin,—like white kid leather.

Young specimens must be chosen for cooking, such as are firm and snow-white, inside and out; for when the fungus is getting ripe and yellowish, and dusty inside, or when it is saturated with rain and the interior is a mass of yellow decomposition, of course it must be rejected.

It is known by its large size, its pure white colour, and its _smooth skin_.

To cook this species satisfactorily and well, cut the specimens up into slices of half an inch in thickness, remove the skin or bark, dip the slices into yolk of egg, and fry in fresh butter. It will then eat with a delicate and delicious flavour; or served with jam or jelly it is an excellent substitute for pastry.

=Pear-Milk Mushroom.= Fig. 26.

(_Lactarius volemum._) 508.

This species is recognized by its very rich coloration, firm flesh, mild taste, white milk (changing to a dull dark umber-colour where the plant is bruised or broken), white gills becoming warm yellow-buff, and the full sienna top; the stem is solid, and the plant grows in woods.

The taste of this plant, when fried, has aptly been compared to lamb’s kidney, and resembles in flavour the only other edible Lactarius—viz. _L. deliciosus_, fig. 11. It is a rare species in this country.

=White Fir-wood Mushroom.= Fig. 27.

(_Agaricus_ [_Clitocybe_] _dealbatus._) 80.

This pretty little fungus commonly grows in, and about the neighbourhood of, fir plantations, but will occasionally come up elsewhere. Its top is white, smooth, and _exceedingly like ivory_. It is shining, waved, fleshy, and inclined to be irregular; the gills are thin, white, and run down the stem.

When clean, young, and fresh specimens are broiled with butter, it is a delicacy of the very highest degree,—at once tender, juicy, and delightful. Its charming flavour is exceeded by very few other fungi.

Several allied species are very good, notably _Agaricus odorus_, which exhales a most delicious odour of melilot.

I used to eat all sorts of things for this species before I properly knew it, and never felt the worse for the mistakes I made. It would be useless to enumerate them all here, without figures and descriptions, but one was the common _Agaricus subpulverulentus_.

=Fairy-ring Champignon.= Fig. 28.

(_Marasmius oreades._) 553.

If possible, this species is better than the last, and no recommendation can be too strong for it. The exquisitely rich and delicious flavour of this plant when broiled with butter must be tasted to be understood. It is firmer than the meadow mushroom, and, whilst having its peculiar aroma, it possesses it in a concentrated form. Even Mr. Berkeley, who would be the last man in the world to subscribe to a doubtful species, says, “_it is the very best of all our fungi_.” It may be pickled, used for ketchup, or dried for future use.

_Marasmius oreades_ grows in rings in short pastures, on downs, and by roadsides everywhere (_but never in woods_). It is somewhat tough, the solid stem particularly so, the gills wide apart, and cream-coloured.

This species has no downy hairs at the base of the stem. Certain other species of _Marasmius_, frequently found growing on dead leaves in woods, and possessing this hairy down, are to be avoided. There is a poisonous plant sometimes found in similar situations, and often _with_ the Fairy-Ring Champignon (_M. urens_), fig. 30, Poisonous Sheet. I once tested its qualities (by accident). See description.

=Truffle.= Fig. 29.

(_Tuber æstivum._) 1916.

The truffle is a subterranean fungus, invariably found under trees, often just appearing above the surface of the ground, and occasionally exposed for sale in our markets, where it will realize at times as much as 5_s._ per pound. The truffle is esteemed by many as the most delicious object of food in the whole vegetable kingdom, and by others it is looked upon with aversion or positive disgust. The odour is very powerful, and is relished by some individuals, and very much disliked by others. It is looked upon as a great delicacy boiled, or simply roasted in hot ashes.

Besides the truffle sold in Covent Garden Market, there are many other species found in this country, of various forms and qualities. _T. æstivum_ varies much in size, is irregular in shape, black, rough, and warted.

I must confess that, at first, I regarded the truffle with loathing; but now I have learned to greatly esteem it. It makes a capital ingredient for gravies, stuffings, and meat pies.

It is frequently referred to under the name of _T. cibarium_.

POISONOUS MUSHROOMS.

=Bundled Stump-mushroom.= Fig. 1.

(_Agaricus_ [_Hypholoma_] _fascicularis._) 331.

This species occurs everywhere at the bases of old stumps, always in groups. The stem is hollow, and the gills are greenish and sub-deliquescent. There is a heavy odour attached to it, and the taste is bitter and repulsive.

=Red Juice-Mushroom.= Fig. 2.

(_Hygrophorus conicus._) 482.

This truly handsome fungus is common in pastures and roadsides. It turns purple-black when bruised, broken, or old, and it has a strong and very forbidding odour.

It is of a succulent substance, and is not unfrequently a brilliant yellow or deep orange, in place of crimson or scarlet.

=Trellised Clathrus.= Fig. 3.

(_Clathrus cancellatus._) 917.

I am indebted to the late Mrs. Gulson, of Eastcliff, near Teignmouth, Devon, for the original plant from which this figure was taken. It is of extreme beauty and rarity, seldom occurring in this country, but common enough in the south of Europe.

The fetor exhaled from this species is highly disagreeable, and can be compared with nothing but itself. It is so horribly repulsive and loathsome as to make a mere examination of the plant a matter of the greatest difficulty. In the young state the odour is less strong, or altogether absent.

=Fetid Leather-fungus.= Fig. 4.

(_Thelephora palmata._) 760.

This soft fungus bears a distant resemblance to some species of Clavaria. It is uncommon, grows upon the ground, and possesses a very disagreeable odour.

=Olive-gilled Mushroom.= Fig. 5.

(_Agaricus_ [_Hypholoma_] _sublateritius._) 328.

This plant is allied to fig. 1, and, like it, grows upon old stumps in woods, and has, too, a disagreeable smell.

=Astringent Mushroom.= Fig. 6.

(_Panus stypticus._) 582.

Is very common on old dead trees and stumps in woods, and had better be avoided.

=Matrix-bearing Mushroom.= Fig. 7.

(_Agaricus_ [_Amanita_] _Phalloides._) 2.

Common everywhere in woods; this handsome Agaric is known to be highly dangerous. It is allied to fig. 8, as will be seen by glancing at the figures.

All parts are nearly white, excepting the top, which generally takes some pale shade of subdued yellow or green.

=Poisonous Spring Mushroom.= Fig. 8.

(_Agaricus_ [_Amanita_] _vernus._) 1.

Belonging to a very suspicious group, this Agaric is supposed to be very poisonous. It grows in woods, _in the spring_, and is white in all its parts.

It is rare, but I have found it close to London.

=Magpie Mushroom.= Fig. 9.

(_Coprinus picaceus._) 379.

This, too, is equally rare, though in some places, as in the Herefordshire woods, it is by no means infrequent. It is a very handsome but suspicious-looking plant, with the top broken up into large patches of black and white. It grows on roadsides, and has a disagreeable odour.

=Gloomy Tube-Mushroom.= Fig. 10.

(_Boletus luridus._) 607.

This is one of the handsomest ornaments of our woods and woody places. The prevailing tint is umber, relieved on the under surface by bright red, sometimes approaching crimson, or even vermilion; when broken or bruised it rapidly changes colour to blue. It is very common in all places where there are trees, and often comes up early in the year. It is probably more or less poisonous, though I have known it to be eaten without _fatal_ effects.

Mr. Penrose once found a specimen as large as a milking-stool, exactly three feet in circumference.

=Griping Milk-Mushroom.= Fig. 11.

(_Lactarius torminosus._) 488.

This dangerous fungus is at once known by the hairy margin of the top, which is rolled inwards. The milk that exudes when the plant is broken is acrid and biting, and does not change colour as does fig. 11, Edible Sheet, and figs. 20 and 28, Poisonous Sheet.

Though said to be common, I think it is somewhat rare; it now and then occurs in solitary specimens in the woods and open places near London.

=Ruddy Milk-Mushroom.= Fig. 12.

(_Lactarius rufus._) 512.

This is one of the most deadly of all British fungi, and generally grows in fir woods; the white milk is singularly acrid and corrosive, which is perhaps its best distinguishing mark. It bears some resemblance to fig. 26, Edible Sheet, but the milk of the _L. volemum_ is mild, and changes colour to dark brown when exposed to the action of the air; whilst in _L. rufus_ it remains white, and the milk is highly pungent.

=Fly Mushroom.= Fig. 13.

(_Agaricus_ [_Amanita_] _muscarius._) 3.

Few fungi can exceed this well-known species in beauty. It is somewhat local, and loves birch woods, where it sometimes makes the very ground almost scarlet with its profuse growth. Sometimes the top is deep yellow or orange, but it is usually brilliant scarlet; if the top skin is stripped off, the flesh just beneath is seen to be bright yellow, and the rest of the flesh white. It is allied to fig. 1, Edible Sheet, but the flesh of the latter is not yellow under the skin; and _A. rubescens turns reddish_ in every part as soon as bruised or broken.

=Poisonous Forest Mushroom.= Fig. 14.

(_Agaricus_ [_Entoloma_] _sinuatus._) 212.

Without doubt, this is a very poisonous plant, for I once cooked a very small piece of a specimen for luncheon, and was very nearly poisoned to death thereby.

I did not eat a twentieth part of the specimen gathered—I am sure not so much as a quarter of an ounce—and the taste was by no means disagreeable. But mark the result. (It must be borne in mind, too, that though I fell so dangerously ill, I never till the last moment _suspected the fungus_. Such a confirmed toadstool-eater was I, that I laid my symptoms to anything but the true cause.)

About a quarter of an hour after luncheon _I left home_, and was immediately overtaken by a strange nervous, gloomy, low-spirited feeling quite new to me. Soon a severe headache added its charms to my feelings, and then swimming of the brain commenced, with violent pains in the stomach.

I had now great difficulty to keep upon my legs at all; my senses all appeared leaving me, and every object appeared to be moving with _death-like stillness_ from side to side, up and down, or round and round.

More dead than alive, I soon returned home, and was horrified to find _two others_ (whom I had invited to partake of my repast) in exactly the same condition as myself. At this moment, and not before, I thought of _Agaricus sinuatus_. These two others had suffered precisely as I had done, and we all three were apparently dying fast. They, however, were attacked by violent vomiting, which I imagine helped to hasten their recovery; for after a few days of sickness and nausea (with medical assistance) they got well; but it was not so with me; for although I had at first the inclination, I had not the strength left to vomit. During the latter part of the first day I was, however, so continually and fearfully purged, and suffered so much from headache and swimming of the brain, that I really thought every moment would be my last.

I was very ill for the next four or five days; suffered from loathing and lassitude; fell into deep sleep, long and troubled; at times found all my joints quite stiff; at others, found everything swimming before me; and it was not till a fortnight had elapsed that every bodily derangement had left me.

Fig. 14 is a portrait of the plant in question, taken before the culinary operations were commenced. No one, after seeing this picture, can fail to recognize the thing itself if found. It is large, has dull flesh-coloured gills, the top is a little downy, it smells like meal, and grows in woods.

It can always be found sparingly in autumn in the woods north of London.

=Fiery Milk-Mushroom.= Fig. 15.

(_Lactarius piperatus._) 500.

I imagine there are very few species in this country more dangerous than this one. So essentially and powerfully acrid is the milk, that if it be allowed to trickle over tender hands it will sting like the contact of nettles; and if a drop is placed on the lips or tongue, the sensation is like the scalding of boiling water, or the burning of a red-hot iron.

It is common in all woods; is particularly firm and solid, but rather brittle. In colour it is sometimes as white as snow, at others it inclines a little to cream; the milk is white and unchangeable, and usually abundant.

=Fetid Mushroom.= Fig. 16.

(_Russula fœtens._) 530.

Less rigid than other _Russulæ_, brittle, and sticky in all its parts, always slug-eaten, and possessed of a wet insufferable odour that can be likened to nothing in nature, this species cannot in reason be anything but deleterious and pernicious to human life. Slugs certainly highly relish it; for although it is one of our commonest species, yet it is invariably much eaten by slugs: frequently the gills are covered with these creatures, or are even completely eaten away.

=Blood-stained Mushroom.= Fig. 17.

(_Russula sanguinea._) 518.

This acrid species of Russula, sometimes found in woods, is by no means uncommon; its well-marked blood-red top and _firm substance_ at once distinguish it from other species. The gills are white, and run a little down the stem.

=Livid Milk-Mushroom.= Fig. 18.

(_Lactarius pyrogalus._) 498.

The highly acrid white milk abundantly exuded from this plant, its depressed and zoned top, its peculiar livid coloration and yellowish gills, distinguish it from the other milk-mushrooms.

It grows in woods and meadows.

=False Chantarelle.= Fig. 19.

(_Cantharellus aurantiacus._) 540.

Is known by its smaller size, its gills being far thinner and more crowded than in the true chantarelle; the stem frequently deep umber at the base, and the gills or veins darker than the top.

It is a species to be rejected for culinary purposes.

=Yellow Milk-Mushroom.= Fig. 20.

(_Lactarius theiogalus._) 503.

This is a beautiful plant, with an odour that is far from disagreeable. It is _sometimes_ without the zones on the top which are shown in our figure, but it is immediately known by the change of colour which takes place in the milk on breaking the fungus; this is at first pure white, but in less than a minute the milk turns to a brilliant yellow.

It is not uncommon, and may generally be found at Hampstead in the woods; and it is supposed to be poisonous.

=Emetic Mushroom.= Fig. 21.

(_Russula emetica._) 528.

This is a magnificent but certainly rare species, but it has a very bad name, and is supposed to possess highly dangerous qualities. The skin is scarlet, and may be readily peeled off, and then the pink flesh is displayed beneath, which is its great characteristic; the gills are pure white, and do not reach the stem; the top is highly polished, and varies from scarlet and crimson to a faint rose-colour, and may now and then be found shaded with purple.

It attains a large size, and loves damp places in woods, and the neighbourhood of trees.

=Slimy Dung-Mushroom.= Fig. 22.

(_Agaricus_ [_Psalliota_] _semiglobatus._) 327.

This extremely common little sticky Agaric grows in pastures, on dung, everywhere; the stem is covered with a glutinous thick slime.

It is regarded as poisonous.

=Sulphury Mushroom.= Fig. 23.

(_Agaricus_ [_Tricholoma_] _sulfureus._) 55.

In woody places at the south of London this very disagreeable but handsome species now and then puts in an appearance. It has a particularly nasty penetrating smell, which has been compared with “gas-tar.” The stem is firm, as is the whole plant, and sulphur-coloured.

It is probably a very dangerous species, but I have seldom met with it.

=Incrusted Mushroom.= Fig. 24.

(_Agaricus_ [_Hebelonia_] _crustuliniformis._) 278.

Growing in woods, this deleterious species is extremely common, and without doubt very dangerous. The dirty pale-umber gills, and its habitat and time of growth—viz. the autumn—at once distinguish it from the delicious _A. gambosus_, fig. 19, Edible Sheet. It has a powerful and highly disagreeable odour, and brown spores, and we believe it is often mistaken by the ignorant for the true mushroom.

=Verdigris Mushroom.= Fig. 25.

(_Agaricus_ [_Psalliota_] _æruginosus._) 322.

The verdigris-green colour of the top of this mushroom is not permanent, but consists of green slime that soon gets washed off by the rain, flaked with white scales. The stem is hollow, and the top fleshy.

It generally grows about stumps, is a very handsome fungus, and is doubtless poisonous.

=Fiery Tube-Mushroom.= Fig. 26.

(_Boletus piperatus._) 597.

Never attains a larger size than the specimen on the sheet; indeed it is one of the smallest of all the _Boleti_. The taste is highly acrid; it is therefore looked upon with grave suspicion, and it is probably a very dangerous plant.

It grows in woods, but is rare.

=Satanical Tube-Mushroom.= Fig. 27.

(_Boletus Satanas._) 606.

The specimen figured I gathered in Crab-tree Wood, near Winchester, during an architectural excursion to St. Cross. I have only once seen anything of it elsewhere, though my late friend Mrs. Gulson, of Eastcliff, has sent it on to me several times from the neighbourhood of Teignmouth.

Without doubt it is by far the most splendid of all the _Boleti_. The top is nearly white, very fleshy, and a little viscid; the stem is firm, exquisitely coloured, and beautifully reticulated; the under surface is brilliant crimson. It usually attains a large size, grows in woods, and as soon as broken or bruised, changes to blue.

In all likelihood it is highly poisonous.

=Pungent Milk-Mushroom.= Fig. 28.

(_Lactarius acris._) 505.

As its name indicates, this is a very acrid and dangerous fungus. It is said to be rare, but I have sometimes known it to be extremely abundant in the woods near London. When cut or broken, the flesh and white milk change to a dull-sienna red; this distinguishes it from all other mushrooms. To observe the change of colour it requires at times a little patience; for I have known half an hour, or even an hour, elapse before the change of colour is manifest.

=Bitter Tube-Mushroom.= Fig. 29.

(_Boletus felleus._) 617.

Said to be rare, but generally abundant in Epping Forest. I have found it in abundance in Nottinghamshire, and know it well; it was the first Boletus I ever drew, and I was then nearly eating it for _Boletus edulis_.

The bitter taste of _B. felleus_, the _flesh-coloured tubes_, the flesh-colour of the top when broken, the reticulated stem, and the pink spores are the distinguishing marks of this species. It is poisonous.

=False Champignon.= Fig. 30.

(_Marasmius urens._) 550.

The more slender habit, the mealy stem, white downy base, and the narrower, darker, and crowded gills, distinguish this counterfeit from the true champignon (fig. 28, Edible Sheet). It sometimes accompanies the latter plant, but with ordinary care can be detected in a moment. It grows in _woods_, as well as in pastures and by roadsides.

I think I was once poisoned by it in Bedfordshire. I well remember, on my way home late one evening, gathering a quantity of champignons for supper; and as it was dark, I imagine I must have gathered both species. I did not cook them myself, neither did I examine them after they were taken from the basket; but I noticed at supper-time that they were unusually hot, and I thought the old woman who cooked them had put too much pepper into the stew. I never suspected the fungi.

In about half an hour after partaking of them my head began to ache, my brain to swim, and my throat and stomach to burn, as if in contact with fire. After being ill for some hours, a terrible fit of purging and vomiting set in, which appeared soon to set me to rights; for after a day or so I was no worse for it.

=Fetid Wood-Witch.= Fig. 31.

(_Phallus impudicus._) 914.

This is a great ornament to our woods, but its truly horrible effluvia beggars description; the nasal organs detect its presence at a long distance, and when neared the loathsome odour is indescribably revolting. Flies, however, appear to highly relish it; for these _Phalli_ are invariably covered with flies, who greedily devour the odorous and liquid repast found at the top of the stem. It is most abundant at woody places in the north of London, all through the summer till the late autumn.

Had not this species really been eaten, with several other singular, offensive, and dangerous fungi figured on this sheet, it would have been hardly necessary to figure or refer to it at all.

THE END.

End of Project Gutenberg's Mushroom and Toadstools, by Worthington G. Smith