Chapter XXII: Cooking Mushrooms

Fresh mushrooms, well cooked and well served, are one of the most delicious of all vegetables. If we grow our own mushrooms we can gather them in their finest form, cook them as we please, and enjoy them in their most delightful condition. If we are dependent upon the fields we should be careful to gather only such mushrooms as are young, plump, and fresh, and reject all that are old or discolored, or betray any signs of the presence of disease or insects. And in the case of store mushrooms, that is, the ones we get at the fruiterer's or other provision store, we should examine them critically before using them to see that they are perfectly free from "flock," "black spot," "maggots," or other ailment, and discard all that have any symptoms of disease.

The small, short-stemmed, white-skinned mushrooms offered for sale are of the variety known as French mushrooms, and on account of their white appearance are preferred by many; the longer-stemmed, broader-headed, and darker-colored kind that we also find offered for sale is what is known as the English mushroom. The French mushrooms are the most attractive in appearance and preferred in the market, but the English variety is the best flavored and generally the most liked for home use.

As soon as the frill around the neck breaks apart the mushroom is fit to gather; keeping it longer may add to its size a little, but surely will detract from its tenderness. The gills of the mushrooms will retain their pink tinge for a day after the frill breaks open, but they soon grow browner and blacker, until in a few days they are unfit for food. In gathering, the mushrooms should be pulled and never cut, and kept in this way until ready to prepare them for cooking. By retaining the stem uncut the mushroom holds its freshness and plumpness much longer than it would were the stems removed. Keep them in a cool, dark place, and in an earthenware vessel with a cover or a thick, damp cloth thrown over it; this will preserve their plumpness. If the frill is broken wide apart when the mushrooms are gathered, the caps are apt to open out flat in a day or two, and the gills darken and spread their spores, just as if the mushrooms were still unsevered from the ground.

Carefully inspect the mushrooms before cooking them. If the gills are black and the mushrooms are too old do not use them; if the cap is perforated by insects discard it, as it is very likely there are maggots inside; or if there are dark brown spots ("black spot") on the top of the caps throw the mushrooms away. Old mushrooms are tough, ill-looking, bad-tasting and indigestible, and those infested by insects, although not poisonous, are very repugnant, and should not be used. But the dangerous mushroom is the one affected by "Flock."

Mushrooms should be gathered free from grit; if at all gritty they require washing, which spoils them. All large mushrooms should be peeled before they are cooked; the skin of the cap parts freely from the flesh, but the skin of the stem must be rubbed or scraped off. The gills should not be removed as they are the most delicate meat of the mushroom, but if the mushrooms are old and intended for soup the gills should be scraped out with the view of getting rid of their darkening influence in the soup. In the case of small button mushrooms, which can not be readily skinned, they should be rubbed over with a soft cloth dipped in vinegar, so as to remove the outer part of the skin. While the stems may be retained with the buttons, they should always be removed from the full-grown mushrooms.

Mushrooms should always be served hot, and they should be eaten as soon as cooked. In the case of baked mushrooms and others prepared in a somewhat similar way they should be covered in the oven by an inverted dish, soup plate, basin, or the like, and if possible brought to the table in this way and without the cover removed. Set the tin upon a mat or cold plate upon the table, then uncover and serve on hot plates. By this means the delicious aroma is preserved.

=Baked Mushrooms.=--Peel and stem the mushrooms, rub and sprinkle a little salt on the gills, and lay the mushrooms, gills up, on a shallow baking tin and put a small piece of butter on each mushroom. Place an inverted saucer or deep plate over them in the tin, and put them into a brisk oven for about twenty minutes. Then take them out and serve upon a hot plate, without spilling any of the juice that has collected in the middle of each mushroom. Send to table and eat at once. This is the common way of cooking mushrooms, and by it is secured the true mushroom aroma and taste in their perfection.

=Stewed Mushrooms.=--Peel and stem the mushrooms. Take an enameled saucepan, put a lump of butter in it and melt it, then put in the mushrooms, and season with salt and pepper and a small piece of pounded mace (if you like it), then cover the saucepan tightly and stew the mushrooms gently until they are tender, which will be in about half an hour. Have ready some toast, either dry or fried in butter, as preferred; spread out upon a hot dish, place the mushrooms upon the toast, with the gills uppermost, pour the juice over them, and serve hot. Button mushrooms are the ones usually selected for stewing, but while nicer and whiter they are not so finely flavored as the full sized ones.

Another way of preparing stewed mushrooms is to stem and peel them; dip in water containing lemon juice (this is to prevent their becoming dark-colored in cooking, or giving a dark color to the stew), and drain them dry. Put them into a stewpan, with a good-sized lump of butter and some nice gravy, and let them stew for about ten minutes. Take a little stock or cream, beat up some flour in it quite smooth, and add a little lemon juice and grated nutmeg. Add this to the mushrooms and cook briskly for about ten minutes longer, or until tender.

=Soyer's Breakfast Mushrooms.=--Place some freshly-made toast, divided, on a dish, and put the mushrooms, stemmed and peeled, gills upward upon it; add a little pepper and salt and put a small bit of butter in the middle of each mushroom. Pour a teaspoonful of cream over each, and add one clove for the whole dish. Put an inverted basin over the whole. Bake for twenty or twenty-five minutes, and do not remove the basin until the dish is brought to the table, so as to preserve the grateful aroma. A delightful dish.

=Mushrooms à la Crême.=--Peel and stem the mushrooms, roll a lump of butter in flour and put it into the saucepan, then add the mushrooms and some salt, white pepper, a little sugar and finely chopped parsley. Stew for ten minutes. Take the yolks of two eggs beaten up with two large spoonfuls of cream, and add the mixture gradually to the stew; cook for a few minutes longer, and serve hot. This is a delicious dish, but the fine mushroom flavor is not as pronounced in it as it is in the plain bake or stew.

=Curried Mushrooms.=--Peel and stem a pound of mushrooms, sprinkle with salt, add a little butter, and stew gently for fifteen or twenty minutes in a little good stock or gravy. Then add four tablespoonfuls of cream and one teaspoonful of good curry powder previously well mixed with two teaspoonfuls of wheat flour. Mix carefully and cook for five or ten minutes longer, and serve on hot toast on hot plates. A capital dish much enjoyed by those who like curry.

=Broiled Mushrooms.=--Select large, open, fresh mushrooms, stem and peel them. Put them on the gridiron, stem side down, over a bright but not very hot fire, and cook for three minutes. Then turn them and put a small piece of butter in the middle of each, and broil for about ten minutes longer. Put them in hot plates, gills upward, and place another small piece of butter on each mushroom, together with a little pepper and salt, and flavor with lemon juice or Chili vinegar, and put them into the oven for a minute or two. Then send them to table.

=Mushroom Soup.=--Take a quantity of fresh young mushrooms, and peel and stem them. Stew them with a little butter, pepper and salt, and some good stock, till tender; take them out and chop them up quite small; prepare a good stock, as for any other soup, and add it to the mushrooms and the liquor they have been stewed in. Boil all together, and serve. If white soup is required use white button mushrooms and a good veal stock, adding a spoonful of cream or a little milk as the color may require. This is a nice soup and tastes good. If the mushrooms are very young they have but little flavor; if they are full grown they darken the soup, and if they are brown in the gills when used the soup will be disagreeably dark. If, after preparing, but before cooking the mushrooms, you pour some boiling water over them and into this drop a little vinegar or lemon juice, then drain them off through a colander, you can prevent, to a great extent, their darkening influence on the soup, but always at the expense of their flavor.

=Mushroom Stems.=--The stems of young, fresh mushrooms are excellent to eat, but those of old or stale mushrooms are unfit for food. In the case of plump, fresh, full-sized mushrooms, the upper part of the stem, that is, the portion between the frill and the socket in the cap, is used, but the portion below the frill, that is, the "root" end, is discarded. Any part of the stem that is discolored or tough or woody should be rejected, and only the portion that is succulent and brittle and of a clean white color at any time used. The stems are nearly always retained in "button" mushrooms when they are cooked, and the upper or succulent parts of the stems of plump, fresh, full-grown mushrooms are often cooked along with the caps, but when cooking full-grown mushrooms we prefer, in all cases, to completely remove the stems from the mushrooms, and cook both separately. The stems are not so tender or deliciously flavored as are the caps, but are excellent for ketchup, or flavoring, or a sauce for eating with boiled fowl. In cooking the stems they should be peeled by scraping, for they can not be skinned like the caps.

=Potted Mushrooms.=--Select nice button or unopen mushrooms, and to a quart of these add three ounces of fresh butter, and stew gently in an enameled saucepan, shaking them frequently to prevent burning. After a few minutes dust a little finely powdered salt, a little spice, and a few grains of cayenne over them, and stew until tender. When cooked turn them into a colander standing in a basin, and leave them there until cold; then press them into small potting-jars, and fill up the jars with warm clarified butter, and cover with paper tied down and brushed over with melted suet to exclude the air. Keep in a cool, dry place. The gravy should be retained for flavoring other gravies, sauces, etc.

=Gilbert's Breakfast Mushrooms.=--Get half grown mushrooms, peel them and lay them, gills-side upward, on a plate; put to each a small piece of butter, but only one layer thick; pepper and salt to taste; add two tablespoonfuls of ketchup and one of water; press round the rim of the plate a strip of paste, get another plate of the same size pressed firmly in the paste; put the whole in a brisk oven for twenty-five minutes. The top plate should be left on until served.

=Baked Mushrooms.=--(A breakfast, luncheon, or supper dish.) Ingredients: Sixteen or twenty mushroom flaps, butter, pepper to taste. Mode. For this mode of cooking the mushroom flaps are better than the buttons, and should not be too large. Cut off a portion of stalk, peel the top, and wipe the mushrooms carefully with a piece of flannel and a little fine salt. Put them into a tin baking dish, with a very small piece of butter placed on each mushroom; sprinkle over a little pepper, and let them bake for about twenty minutes, or longer should the mushrooms be very large. Have ready a very hot dish, pile the mushrooms high in the center, pour the gravy round, and send them to table quickly on very hot plates.

=Broiled Mushrooms.=--(A breakfast, luncheon, or supper dish.) Ingredients: Mushrooms, pepper and salt to taste, butter, lemon juice. Mode. Cleanse the mushrooms by wiping them with a piece of flannel and a little salt; cut off a portion of the stalk and peel the tops; broil them over a clear fire, turning them once, and arrange them on a very hot dish. Put a small piece of butter on each mushroom, season with pepper and salt and squeeze over them a few drops of lemon juice. Place the dish before the fire, and when the butter is melted serve very hot and quickly. Moderate sized flaps are better suited to this mode of cooking than the buttons; the latter are better in stews.

=Mushrooms à la Casse, Tout.=--Ingredients: Mushrooms, toast, two ounces of butter, pepper and salt. Mode. Cut a round of bread one-half an inch thick, and toast it nicely; butter both sides and place it in a clean baking sheet or tin; cleanse the mushrooms as in preceding recipe, and place them on the toast, head downwards, lightly pepper and salt them, and place a piece of butter the size of a nut on each mushroom; cover them with a finger glass and let them cook close to the fire for ten or twelve minutes. Slip the toast into a hot dish, but do not remove the glass cover until they are on the table. All the aroma and flavor of the mushrooms are preserved by this method. The name of this excellent recipe need not deter the careful housekeeper from trying it. With moderate care the glass cover will not crack. In winter it should be rinsed in warm water before using.

=Stewed Mushrooms.=--Ingredients. One pint mushroom buttons, three ounces of fresh butter, white pepper and salt to taste, lemon juice, one teaspoonful of flour, cream or milk, one-fourth teaspoonful of grated nutmeg. Mode. Cut off the ends of the stalks and pare neatly a pint of mushroom buttons; put them into a basin of water with a little lemon juice as they are done. When all are prepared take them from the water with the hands, to avoid the sediment, and put them into a stewpan with the fresh butter, white pepper, salt, and the juice of one-half a lemon; cover the pan closely and let the mushrooms stew gently from twenty to twenty-five minutes, then thicken the butter with the above proportion of flour, add gradually sufficient cream, or cream and milk, to make the sauce of a proper consistency, and put in the grated nutmeg. If the mushrooms are not perfectly tender stew them for five minutes longer, remove every particle of butter which may be floating on the top, and serve.

=Broiled Beefsteak and Mushrooms.=--Ingredients: Two or three dozen small button mushrooms, one ounce of butter, salt and cayenne to taste, one tablespoonful of mushroom ketchup. Mode. Wipe the mushrooms free from grit with a piece of flannel, and salt; put them in a stewpan with the butter, seasoning, and ketchup; stir over the fire until the mushrooms are quite done. Have the steak nicely broiled, and pour over. The above is very good with either broiled or stewed steak.

=To Preserve Mushrooms.=--Ingredients: To each quart of mushrooms allow three ounces of butter, pepper and salt to taste, the juice of one lemon, clarified butter. Mode. Peel the mushrooms, put them into cold water, with a little lemon juice; take them out and dry them very carefully in a cloth. Put the butter into a stewpan capable of holding the mushrooms; when it is melted add the mushrooms, lemon juice, and a seasoning of pepper and salt; draw them down over a slow fire, and let them remain until their liquor is boiled away and they have become quite dry, but be careful in not allowing them to stick to the bottom of the stewpan. When done put them into pots and pour over the top clarified butter. If wanted for immediate use they will keep good a few days without being covered over. To rewarm them put the mushrooms into a stewpan, strain the butter from them, and they will be ready for use.

=Mushroom Powder.=--(A valuable addition to sauces and gravies when fresh mushrooms are not obtainable.) Ingredients: One-half peck of large mushrooms, two onions, twelve cloves, one-fourth ounce of pounded mace, two teaspoonfuls of white pepper. Mode. Peel the mushrooms, wipe them perfectly free from grit and dirt, remove the black fur, and reject all those that are at all worm-eaten; put them into a stewpan with the above ingredients, but without water; shake them over a clear fire till all the liquor is dried up, and be careful not to let them burn; arrange them on tins and dry them in a slow oven; pound them to a fine powder, which put into small dry bottles; cork well, seal the corks, and keep it in a dry place. In using this powder, add it to the gravy just before serving, when it will require one boil up. The flavor imparted by this means to the gravy ought to be exceedingly good. This should be made in September, or at the beginning of October, and if the mushroom powder bottle in which it is stored away is not perfectly dry it will speedily deteriorate.

=Mushroom Powder.=--This is for use as a condiment. The finest full-grown mushrooms--which are the best flavored--should be selected and prepared for drying, and dried as stated under the heading of "Dried Mushrooms," except that it is better to dry them in an oven or drying machine so that they may be dried quickly and become brittle. Grate or otherwise reduce them to a fine powder, and preserve this in tightly-corked bottles.

=To Dry Mushrooms.=--Wipe them clean, take away the brown part and peel off the skin; lay them on sheets of paper to dry, in a cool oven, when they will shrivel considerably. Keep them in paper bags, which hang in a dry place. When wanted for use put them into cold gravy, bring them gradually to simmer, and it will be found that they will regain nearly their usual size.

=Dried Mushrooms.=--In the flush of the pasture-mushroom season gather a large number of mushrooms of all sizes and see that they are thoroughly clean; remove and discard the stems and peel the caps. Stir them around for a few minutes in boiling water to which a little lemon juice or vinegar has been added to prevent them from turning dark colored. Some people use plain cold water, or cold water with lemon juice or vinegar in it. But never use salt in preparing mushrooms for drying, or else the salted mushrooms will absorb moisture from the atmosphere and spoil. Take the mushrooms out of the water and drain them on a sieve, then string them and hang them up to dry and season in an open, airy shed, as one would strings of drying fruit. They may also be dried in a drying machine or oven as one would do with apples or peaches. They are used as a substitute for fresh mushrooms when the latter can not be obtained. In preparing dried mushrooms for use steep them in tepid water or milk until they become quite soft and plump, then drain them dry and cook them in the same way as fresh mushrooms. While they are a good substitute for the fresh article they are deficient in flavor.

=Mushroom Ketchup.=--To each peck of mushrooms add one-half pound of salt; to each quart of mushroom liquor one-half ounce of allspice, one-half ounce of ginger, two blades of pounded mace, one-fourth ounce of cayenne.

Choose full-grown mushroom flaps, and be careful that they are perfectly fresh-gathered when the weather is tolerably dry; for if they are picked during rain the ketchup made from them is liable to get musty, and will not keep long. Put a layer of them in a deep pan, sprinkle salt over them, then another layer of mushrooms and so on alternately. Let them remain for a few hours, and break them up with the hand; put them in a cool place for three days, occasionally stirring and mashing them well to extract from them as much juice as possible. Measure the quantity without straining, and to each quart allow the above proportion of spices, etc. Put all into a stone jar, cover it up very closely, put it in a saucepan of boiling water, set it over the fire and let it boil for three hours. Have ready a clean stewpan; turn into it the contents of the jar, and let the whole simmer very gently for half an hour; pour it into a pitcher, where it should stand in a cool place until the next day; then pour it off into another pitcher and strain it into very dry clean bottles, and do not squeeze the mushrooms. To each pint of ketchup add a few drops of brandy. Be careful not to shake the contents, but leave all the sediment behind in the pitcher; cork well, and either seal or rosin the cork, so as to exclude the air perfectly. When a very clear, bright ketchup is wanted the liquor must be strained through a very fine hair sieve or flannel bag after it has been very gently poured off; if the operation is not successful it must be repeated until you have quite a clear liquor. It should be examined occasionally, and if it is spoiling should be reboiled with a few peppercorns. Seasonable from the beginning of September to the middle of October, when this ketchup should be made.

=Mushroom Ketchup.=--This flavoring ingredient, if genuine and well prepared, is one of the most useful store sauces to the experienced cook, and no trouble should be spared in its preparation. Double ketchup is made by reducing the liquor to half the quantity; for example, one quart must be boiled down to one pint. This goes further than ordinary ketchup, as so little is required to flavor a good quantity of gravy. The sediment may also be bottled for immediate use, and will be found to answer for flavoring thick soups or gravies.

=Mushroom Ketchup.=--In making ketchup use the very best mushrooms, full grown but young and fresh, as it is highly important to secure fine flavor, and this we can not get from inferior mushrooms. Take a measure of fine fresh mushrooms and see that they are clean and free from grit; stem and peel them; cut them into very thin slices and place a layer of these on the bottom of a deep dish or tureen; sprinkle this layer with fine salt, then put in another layer and sprinkle with salt as before, and so on until the dish is full. The white succulent part of the stems may also be used in the ketchup, but never any discolored, tough or stringy part. On the top of all strew a layer of fresh walnut rind cut into small pieces. Place the dish in a cool cellar for four or five days, to allow the contents to macerate. When the whole mass has become nearly liquid pass it through a colander. Then boil down the strained liquor to half of its bulk and add its own weight of calf's-foot jelly; season with allspice or white pepper and boil down to the consistence of jelly. Pour into stoneware jars and keep in a cool place.

=Pickled Mushrooms.=--Use sufficient vinegar to cover the mushrooms; to each quart of mushrooms two blades of pounded mace, one ounce of ground pepper, salt to taste. Choose young button mushrooms for pickling, and rub off the skin with a piece of flannel and salt, and cut off the stalks; if very large take out the red gills and reject the black ones, as they are too old. Put them in a stewpan, sprinkle salt over them, with pounded mace and pepper in the above proportion; shake them well over a clear fire until the liquor flows, and keep them there until it is all dried up again; then add as much vinegar as will cover them; let it simmer for one minute, and store it away in stone jars for use. When cold tie down with bladder and keep in a dry place; they will remain good for a long time, and are generally considered delicious. Make this the same time as ketchup, from the beginning of September to the middle of October. [The above recipes are furnished by Mrs. George Amberley, of New York City.]

INDEX.

Ammonia Arising, 54

Anguillulæ, 124
In Decaying Vegetation, 126
Scalding Water to Kill, 126
To Destroy, 114

Apparatus, Hot Water, 33

Atmosphere, Manure Steam for Moistening, 114
Remedying a too Dry, 114

Barn Cellars, 10

Bedding, Wetted with Urine, 58

Beds, 16
Alongside of Wall, 18
Banked Against a Wall, 53
Bearing in November, 25
Black Spot in the, 108
Boring Holes in, to Reduce Temperature, 76
Bottom of, 17
Box, 17
Casing, after Spawning, 100
Casing the, 104
Earthing Over the, 103
Experiments as to Proper Time to Case, 104
Fifteen Inches Thick, 22
Firmly Built, 76
Flat, 50
Flat, Sods fit only for, 107
Floor, 19
Flooring for the, 28
Green Sods, Method of Casing, 106
Killing the Mycelium in, 96
Loam for, 100
Manure, 20
Maximum Heat of Best, 75
Midwinter, 39
Mulching, 23
Mushroom, 12
Never Spawn, when Heat is Rising, 96
Odorless, in Dwelling House Cellars, 21
Of Low Temperature, 77
On the Floor, 13
Outside, 12
Parching Effect Visible on, 26
Picking "Fogged-off" Mushrooms from, 108
Rack, 13
Re-Invigorating Old, 120
Renovating Old, in England, 142
Ridge, 17
Second Crop from, 120
Shelf, 16, 29
Spawned at 66° to 70°, 97
Spawning and Molding, 14
Spawning the, 96
Spent Mushroom, 121
Stale, 76
Tamping Surface of, 23
Temperature of a Twelve Inch Thick Bed, 96
Ten or Twelve Inches Deep, 19
Tending the, 17
Three Feet Deep, 25
To Keep, Warm, 109
Topdressed, 23
Under Greenhouse Benches, To make, 53
Watering, 24
Watering the, 108
Watering Mushroom, 111
When Dry to be Watered, 111
Wide, With Pathway Above,* 44
Worn Out, 120

Beetles, Larvæ of Two, Destroying Mycelium, 132

Benches Covered, 40

Black Spot, 124
A Disease, 125
In Beds in Vigorous Bearing, 125
In New Beds, 125
Is Unwholesome, 126
To Prevent, 125

Boards, Stepping, 17

Boiler and Pipes, 32

Boilers, Hitching's Base-burner, 31

Boxing, 19
Lid for, 19
Old Carpet or Matting Over, 19

"Bullet" or "Shot" Holes in Mushrooms, 128

Bugs, Mealy, 12

Calico, 18

Caves, 17

Caves of Paris, In the,* 147
Paris, Description of, 143
French Spawn Used in, 146
Gathering Mushrooms for Market in the, 149
Making Beds in the, 145
Manure Used in the, 144
Material Used for and Method of Earthing Over in, 146
Methods of Regulating Draughts in the, 150
Preparation of Manure for the, 144
Paris, Spawn Used in the, and How Obtained, 145
Stratifying Spawn Before Using in the, 146
Temperature in Spacious, High Roofed, 147
Ventilation in the, 148
When and How Mushrooms are Gathered in the, 148

Ceiling, Flat, 37
Sloping, 36
Wet, 18

Cellar, Barn, 13
Cleanliness in the Mushroom, 26
Cool, 19
Cross-section of the Dosoris Mushroom,* 27
Dosoris Mushroom, 27
Divided, 30
Ground Plan of the Dosoris,* 28
Height of, 17
House, 13
Interior Arrangements of, 16
Mushroom, Under a Barn,* 16
Of Dwelling House, 18
Ordinary, 21
Outhouse, 18
Pent-up, 17
Unheated, 17
Vegetable, 12
Warm, 19
Wholly Devoted to Mushroom Growing, 15

Cellars, 10
Artificial Heating, 17
Cool, Airy, 20
Flat Roofed Mushroom, 18
Mushrooms in, 25
Potato, 18
Underground, 15, 27

Cistern, Large Underground, 18

Coal, Nut and Stove, 33

Cold and Vermin, 19

Cooking Mushrooms, 150

Crop, Common Average, 30
Gathering the, 17
Marketing the, 14
Yielding, 31

Crops, Capital, 17

Cut Flower Season, 11

Dirt, Roadside, 101

Doors, Double, 16
Outside, 35
Single, 16

Drip, Cold, Falling upon Beds, 36
Crop Suffering From, 51
From Benches, the Effects of, 51
In Commercial Greenhouses, 52
Plan for Warding off, 52

Dust and Noxious Gas, 17

Entrance, 16

Entrance Pits, 30

Economy, False, 37

Families, Private, 18

Farmers, 13

Flies, Manure, 126
Manure, Ill-favor of, 126
Manure Perfectly Harmless, 127

Fire, Danger of, 33

Flock, 132
How General is, 134
The Cause of, 133
The Habits and Manner of Growth of, 133
The Worst Mushroom Disease, 132
What it Looks Like, 134
What is, 133

Floor, A Dry, Necessary, 47
Common Earth, 47
Dry, 35, 39
Earthen, 21

Flooring, 29

Fogging Off, 106, 131
Favorable Conditions for, 132
The Cause of, 131

Florists, 11

Florists' Greenhouses, 10

Frame, Boxed-up with Straw Covering,* 19
Covered with Calico, 20
Covered with Oiled Paper, 20
Common Hotbed Box, 45
Preparing Beds in the, 46
Shading the, 47
Spawning in, 46

Frost, Hoar, 35
To Exclude, 40

Fruit Room, 12

Furnace, Boxed off, 17

Gardens, Private, 37

Grapery, Beds and Frames Inside the, 13

Greenhouse Bench, Boxed Mushroom Bed Under,* 41

Greenhouse Benches, Among Other Plants on, 48

Greenhouse Benches, On, 42

Greenhouse Benches, Under, 47

Greenhouses, Beds in Open, Airy, 53
Cool, 41
Growing Mushrooms in, 41
In Frames in, 44
Steam-heated, 48

Growers, Parisian, 60

Heat, Artificial not Absolutely Necessary, 17
Fire, 17
Parching, 17

Heater, Base-burning Water,* 32
Vertical Section,* 32

Heating Apparatus, 28

Hoe, Angular-pointed, 23

Hops, Spent, 68
Spent, Cost Nothing, 69

Horses, Those who Keep, 13

Hotbed Frames, 44

House, A Mushroom, 34
Cow, 13
Ground Plan of Mrs. Osborne's Mushroom,* 36
In Dwelling, 18
Interior Arrangement of Mushroom, 37
Interior View of Mr. Henshaw's Mushroom,* 33
Mr. Samuel Henshaw's, 37
Mushroom, Built Against North-facing Wall,* 34
Section of Mrs. Osborne's,* 35

Houses, Fruit-forcing, 12
Growing Mushrooms in Rose, 49
Lettuce, Mushrooms in, 50
Tomato-forcing, Mushrooms in, 49
Well-sheltered in Winter, 34

Insecticide, Common Salt as an, 113

Leaves, Condition of, to Heat, 68
Fermenting, Beds Composed of, 68
Oak, the Best, 67
Quick-rotting, 67
Tree, 67

Lettuce House, Moisture of, 10

Lice, Wood, 129

Loam and Manure, 11
Mixed, 72
Mixed, Temperature of, 77
Mixed, To Prepare, 73

Loam, Coating, 20
Common, for Casing, 100
Containing Old Manure, 101
Fibrous, Mellow, Best for Earthing Over, 103
Fresh Sod, 100
Heavy, Clayey, 101
Ordinary Field Soil, 26
Sod, Reasons for Use of, 73
Topdressing with, 107

Lot, Village or Suburban, 13

Manure, 13
Baled, 64
Cellar, 62
City Stable, 63
Common Horse, 21
Cow, 65
Cow, Necessary in Manufacture of Spawn, 66
Drying by Exposure, 71
Fermenting Fresh Horse, 24
"Fire-fanged," 62
Firmly Packed, 70
Flies, 124, 126
Fresh, 12
Fresher the Better, 58
From City Stables, 26
German Peat Moss Stable, 66
Handling, 35
Homemade, 60
Horse, 57
Hog, Mycelium Evades, 63
Liquid, 113
Liquid, Cow and Sheep, 113
Of Entire Horses, 60
Of Horses fed with Carrots, 61
Of Mules, 62
Preparation of the, 69
Preserve the Wet and Strawy Part, 60
Proper Condition of, 72
Sawdust Stable, 66
Selected, 63
Steaming Hot, 24
The Best, 57
To Prevent "fire-fang" in, 70
Turning the, 14, 71
Warm, 13
Well-rotted, 14
Without Preparatory Treatment, 22

Market, A Good, 25
Gardener, 9, 15
Gardening near New York, 9

Markets, Brooklyn, 26
In Winter, 10

Materials, Exhausted, 16
For Beds, Fresh, 16
Waste of, 17

Method, Mr. Denton's, 25
Mr. Gardner's, 21
Mr. Van Siclen's, 27

Methods, Avoiding Complicated, 21

Mice and Rats, 130
Different Kinds of, 130
Fond of Mushrooms, 130

Mice, How they Disfigure Mushrooms, 130

Mites not a Mushroom Pest, 130
The Home of, 130
Two Kinds of, Common, 130

Moisture, Condensation of, 46

Mold on Beds, How Deep to Put, 105

Money, Pin- 14

Mushroom, A Perfect,* 116
Affected with Black Spot,* 125
Bed Built Flat on the Ground,* 52
Bed Five Feet Wide, Profit from, 12
Bed, Rigid,* 53
Beds, 11
Beds in England, How made, 137
Beds, Making up the, 74
Beds, Manure-fatted Loam in, 26
Beds, Manure for, 57
Beds, Mr. Wilson's,* 51
Beds on Greenhouse Benches, Objection to, 42
Beds, Sites for Around London, 137
Cellar, Perspective View of the Dosoris,* 58
Crop, 13
Flock-Diseased,* 133
Food, 24
Growing in the Paris Caves, 143
Growing Out of Doors a Specialty, 136
Growing, Profit of, Around London, 136
Growing, Success in, 12
House, A Regular, 12
House, Best Kind of, 11
House, Cellar Everybody's, 15
House, Damping Floors of, 115
Houses, Cleaning the, 135
Houses, Growing Mushrooms in, 34
Houses, Ideal, 15
Houses, Whitewashing, 135
Season Closed, 31
Spawn, 78
The "Horse," 48
A Winter Crop, 14
Advantages of Pulling over Cutting, 117
After a Dry Summer, 55
And Grapevines, 13
Black Spot in, 124
Cause of Black Spot in, 124
English, 115
Filling Stump Holes with Fresh Loam, 117
Five Inch Diameter before Expanding, 47
For Family Use, 13
For Soups, When to Pick, 116
Fresh, 12
From Natural Spawn, 48
From October Until May, 30
Gathering and Marketing, 115
Gathering Field and Wild, 118
Gathering in Cold Weather, 140
Good, 19
Growing in Cellars, 15
Growing in Fields, 54
Growing, in Narrow Troughs, 59
Growing in Ridges Around London, 136
Growing in Sawdust, 67
Grown on Greenhouse Benches,* 43
Growth of from Spawning under Different Temperatures, 110
Head Room, 19
Importance of Care in Gathering and Packing for Shipment, 119
In August and September, 56
In Crates and Baskets, 118
In the Fields, Plan of Growing, 55
Insect and Other Enemies of, 122
Knack in Pulling, 117
Maggots in, 122, 124
"Maggots" in, appear in April, 123
Maggots, Size of, in, 123
Marketed in Paper Boxes, 118
Marketing, 118
Not a Bulky Crop, 11
On Greenhouse Bench Under Tomatoes, 45
Packed in Punnets for London Market, 119
Picking so as not to Disturb Buttons, 117
"Pin-Head," 107
Profit on, Clear Gain, 51
Proper Manner of Picking, 116
Pulled, Keeping Qualities of, 117
Scooping Out the Stumps, 117
Sold by the Pound, 118
Sorting and Packing for Market, in England, 141
Summer Crops of, 123
Under the Benches, 11
When Fit to Pick, 115
Who Should Grow, 9
Wild, 55

Mulching, When to Remove, 42

Mycelium, Liquid to Encourage Spread of, 77

Odor, Bad, 20

Outbuildings, 12

Paper, Building, 52
Oiled, 18

Passage-ways, 18

Pathways, 16

Peat Moss, Bale of German, 66

Pipes, Heating, 17
Hot, Injury from, 48
Hot Water, 23
Sheet Iron, 27
Smoke, 33

Private Gardeners, 12

Rats, More Destructive than Mice, 131

Recipes for Cooking and Preserving Mushrooms, 150
A la Casse, Tout, 157
A la Crême, 154
Baked, 152, 156
Broiled, 154, 156
Broiled Beefsteak and, 158
Cooked, General Directions for Serving, 152
Cooking, 150
Cooking, General Preparation of, for, 151
Curried, 154
Dried, 160
Gilbert's Breakfast, 156
Ketchup, 160, 161, 162
Kind of, to Select for, 150
Pickled, 162
Potted, 155
Powder, 159
Soup, 154
Soyer's Breakfast, 153
Stems, 155
Stewed, 153, 157
To Dry, 159
To Preserve, 158

Ridges, 17
Casing the, 139
Covering the, 140
Covering with Litter, 139
Drenching Rains Injurious to, 139
First made in August, 140
For Growing Mushrooms in Open Field, 138
Method of Gathering Mushrooms from, 141
Smoothing the, 139
The Covered,* 140
Watering the, 139

Roof, 35

Roofs water-tight, 39
Of Tin, 38
With Coating of Salt Hay, 38

Salad Plants, 10

Sashes, 46

Secret, No, 14

Shading on Sunny Days, 42

Shaft, Chimney-like, 16

Shaft, Tall, Wooden, 28

Shed, Open on South Side, 39
Potting, 12
Warm Potting, 40
The Term Applied, 40
Tool, 12
Wood, 12

Sheds, Growing Mushrooms in, 39
Unheated, 40

Shelves, Temporary Structures, 25

Shutters, Light Wooden, 53

Slugs, 127
Attack Mushrooms in all Stages, 127
Biting into Stems of Mushrooms, 127
Fond of Mushrooms, 127
How to Catch and Kill, 128
Salt Distasteful to, 128
The Cause of "Bullet" or "Shot" Holes, 128

Soil, Conditions of for Casing, 105
Firming the, 106
From Slopes and Dry Hollows in Woods, 101
Ordinary Garden, 101
Peat, or Swamp Muck, 101
Sandy, 101
Sifting, for Casing, 105

Southern States, 10

Spawn, 13
American-made, 86
Amount of Imported, 80
Another Method by Lachaume, 94
Black Colored to be Avoided, 86
Breaking, 23
Brick,* 80
Brick, Cut in Pieces for Planting,* 97
Brick, How to Make, 87
Brick, the Best, 95
Depth to Plant, 98
Effect of Heat and Moisture Upon, 83
Effect of Severe Frost Upon, 83
English, 81
English Brick, 23
Flake, 82, 99
Flake, Does Best under Cover, 95
Flake or French,* 82
French, 82
French Flake, 24
Homemade Around London, 137
How to Distinguish Good from Poor, 84
How to Get, 79
How to Keep, 83
How to make French (Flake), 91
Imported from Europe, 79
In Leaf Beds, 68
In Manure, Do not Bury, 10
Inserting French or Flake, 98
Inserting more than Three Inches Deep, 105
Insuring Development of, 49
Lachaume's Method of Making, 93
Making, Distinct Branch, 87
Making French Virgin, 92
Mill-track, 81
Mr. J. Burton's Method of Making, 90
Natural, 81
New Versus Old, 83
Never use Dibber in Planting, 98
Other Recipes for Making, 89
Planting of in Open Fields, 54
Preparing the, 97
Principal American Growers of, 86
Relative Merits of Flake and Brick, 94
Signs of Sterility in, 85
Simplest Way of Making, 88
Steeped, 99
The Way in which it Comes, 81
To tell Quality by Smell of, 85
Transplanting Pieces of Working, 99
"Very Dead," 84
"Very Living," 84
Virgin, 82, 91
What is Mushroom, 78
Where Obtained, 79

Spiders, Red, 12

Spores, Myriads of, 78

Spurious Fungi, 102

Stable, Empty Stall in Horse, 13

Staging, Erecting Temporary, 46

Stairway, 16
In Pit, 32

Standard Crop, 9

Stoke-hole, 12

Stove, Common Iron, 26

Straw, Rye, 47

Sunlight, Protection from, 10

Temperature, 10
At Night, 41
About 57° Suitable, 23
Fluctuations of, 15
From 50° to 60°, 18
High, 19
In Dosoris Cellars, 109
In Midwinter, 33
Low, 15
Proper, 75, 109
Sudden Changes to be Avoided, 47
Too High, Guard Against, 76
Winter, 60° Necessary, 38

Thrips, 12

Toads, 131
Not to be Recommended, 131
Upheaving Clumps of Mushrooms, 131

Toadstools, 102
On Hotbeds, 102
On Manure Piles, 102

Trapping Rats and Mice, 131

Traps for Wood Lice, 129

Tunnel, Subterranean, 27

Ventilation, Assisting, 17

Ventilator, Chimney-like, 22

Ventilators, 16, 28
Side Window, 35
Window and Doors, 21

Village People and Suburban Residents, 13

Wall, Cold, not Injurious 30

Walls 35

Warmth, Artificial, 17
Steady, 17

Water, Manure, for Beds in Full Bearing, 112
Space and Double Casing, 32

Watering, Endeavor to Lessen Necessity of, 111
For, use Clean, Soft Water, 111
Over Mulching, 111
Pot, Size to use, 112

Wife, Farmer's, 14

Windows, 16

Winds, Piercing, and Draughts, 39

Women Searching for Remunerative Employment, 14

Wood Lice, 129
Abundant in Mushroom Houses, 129
Eating Potato, 129
How to Trap, 129

Work, Clean, 14

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Transcriber's Notes:

1. Changed Page 1 to Page 9 in Table of Contents Chapter I.

2. Asterisks are used in the index to refer to illustrations.

End of Project Gutenberg's Mushrooms: how to grow them, by William Falconer