Chapter I: Front Matter

TRANSCRIBER’S NOTE

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MY DIARY

NORTH AND SOUTH.

BY
WILLIAM HOWARD RUSSELL.

IN TWO VOLUMES.

VOL. I.

LONDON:
BRADBURY AND EVANS, 11, BOUVERIE STREET.
1863.

[_The right of Translation is reserved._]

LONDON:
BRADBURY AND EVANS, PRINTERS, WHITEFRIARS

TO

RICHARD QUAIN, M.D.,

These Volumes are Dedicated

IN TESTIMONY

OF

THE REGARD AND GRATITUDE

OF

THE AUTHOR.

INTRODUCTORY.

A book which needs apologies ought never to have been written. This is a canon of criticism so universally accepted, that authors have abstained of late days from attempting to disarm hostility by confessions of weakness, and are almost afraid to say a prefatory word to the gentle reader.

It is not to plead in mitigation of punishment or make an appeal _ad misericordiam_, I break through the ordinary practice, but by way of introduction and explanation to those who may read these volumes, I may remark that they consist for the most part of extracts from the diaries and note-books which I assiduously kept whilst I was in the United States, as records of the events and impressions of the hour. I have been obliged to omit many passages which might cause pain or injury to individuals still living in the midst of a civil war, but the spirit of the original is preserved as far as possible, and I would entreat my readers to attribute the frequent use of the personal pronoun and personal references to the nature of the sources from which the work is derived, rather than to the vanity of the author.

Had the pages been literally transcribed, without omitting a word, the fate of one whose task it was to sift the true from the false and to avoid error in statements of fact, in a country remarkable for the extraordinary fertility with which the unreal is produced, would have excited some commiseration; but though there is much extenuated in these pages, there is not, I believe, aught set down in malice. My aim has been to retain so much relating to events passing under my eyes, or to persons who have become famous in this great struggle, as may prove interesting at present, though they did not at the time always appear in their just proportions of littleness or magnitude.

During my sojourn in the States, many stars of the first order have risen out of space or fallen into the outer darkness. The watching, trustful, millions have hailed with delight or witnessed with terror the advent of a shining planet or a splendid comet, which a little observation has resolved into watery nebulæ. In the Southern hemisphere, Bragg and Beauregard have given place to Lee and Jackson. In the North M‘Dowell has faded away before M‘Clellan, who having been put for a short season in eclipse by Pope, only to culminate with increased effulgence, has finally paled away before Burnside. The heroes of yesterday are the martyrs or outcasts of to-day, and no American general needs a slave behind him in the triumphal chariot to remind him that he is a mortal. Had I foreseen such rapid whirls in the wheel of fortune I might have taken more note of the men who were below, but my business was not to speculate but to describe.

The day I landed at Norfolk, a tall lean man, ill-dressed, in a slouching hat and wrinkled clothes, stood, with his arms folded and legs wide apart, against the wall of the hotel looking on the ground. One of the waiters told me it was “Professor Jackson,” and I have been plagued by suspicions that in refusing an introduction which was offered to me, I missed an opportunity of making the acquaintance of the man of the stonewalls of Winchester. But, on the whole, I have been fortunate in meeting many of the soldiers and statesmen who have distinguished themselves in this unhappy war.

Although I have never for one moment seen reason to change the opinion I expressed in the first letter I wrote from the States, that the Union as it was could never be restored, I am satisfied the Free States of the North will retain and gain great advantages by the struggle, if they will only set themselves at work to accomplish their destiny, nor lose their time in sighing over vanished empire or indulging in abortive dreams of conquest and schemes of vengeance; but my readers need not expect from me any dissertations on the present or future of the great republics, which have been so loosely united by the Federal band, nor any description of the political system, social life, manners or customs of the people, beyond those which may be incidentally gathered from these pages.

It has been my fate to see Americans under their most unfavourable aspect; with all their national feelings, as well as the vices of our common humanity, exaggerated and developed by the terrible agonies of a civil war, and the throes of political revolution. Instead of the hum of industry, I heard the noise of cannon through the land. Society convulsed by cruel passions and apprehensions, and shattered by violence, presented its broken angles to the stranger, and I can readily conceive that the America I saw, was no more like the country of which her people boast so loudly, than the St. Lawrence when the ice breaks up, hurrying onwards the rugged drift and its snowy crust of crags, with hoarse roar, and crashing with irresistible force and fury to the sea, resembles the calm flow of the stately river on a summer’s day.

The swarming communities and happy homes of the New England States--the most complete exhibition of the best results of the American system--it was denied me to witness; but if I was deprived of the gratification of worshipping the frigid intellectualism of Boston, I saw the effects in the field, among the men I met, of the teachings and theories of the political, moral, and religious professors, who are the chiefs of that universal Yankee nation, as they delight to call themselves, and there recognised the radical differences which must sever them for ever from a true union with the Southern States.

The contest, of which no man can predict the end or result, still rages, but notwithstanding the darkness and clouds which rest upon the scene, I place so much reliance on the innate good qualities of the great nations which are settled on the Continent of North America, as to believe they will be all the better for the sweet uses of adversity; learning to live in peace with their neighbours, adapting their institutions to their necessities, and working out, not in their old arrogance and insolence--mistaking material prosperity for good government--but in fear and trembling, the experiment on which they have cast so much discredit, and the glorious career which misfortune and folly can arrest but for a time.

W. H. RUSSELL.

_London, December 8, 1862._

CONTENTS.

CHAPTER I.
PAGE
Departure from Cork--The Atlantic in March--Fellow-passengers--
American politics and parties--The Irish in New York--Approach
to New York 1

CHAPTER II.

Arrival at New York--Custom-house--General impressions as to
North and South--Street in New York--Hotel--Breakfast--American
women and men--Visit to Mr. Bancroft--Street-railways 10

CHAPTER III.

“St. Patrick’s day” in New York--Public dinner--American
Constitution--General topics of conversation--Public estimate
of the Government--Evening party at Mons. B----’s 22

CHAPTER IV.

Streets and shops in New York--Literature--A funeral--Dinner
at Mr. H----’s--Dinner at Mr. Bancroft’s--Political and social
features--Literary breakfast: Heenan and Sayers 34

CHAPTER V.

Off to the railway station--Railway carriages--Philadelphia--
Washington--Willard’s Hotel--Mr. Seward--North and South--The
“State Department” at Washington--President Lincoln--Dinner
at Mr. Seward’s 43

CHAPTER VI.

A state dinner at Mr. Abraham Lincoln’s--Mrs. Lincoln--The
Cabinet Ministers--A newspaper correspondent--Good Friday at
Washington 60

CHAPTER VII.

Barbers’ shops--Place-hunting--The Navy Yard--Dinner at Lord
Lyons’--Estimate of Washington among his countrymen--Washington’s
house and tomb--The Southern Commissioners--Dinner with the
Southern Commissioners--Feeling towards England among the
Southerners--Animosity between North and South 73

CHAPTER VIII.

New York Press--Rumours as to the Southerners--Visit to the
Smithsonian Institute--Pythons--Evening at Mr. Seward’s--Rough
draft of official dispatch to Lord J. Russell--Estimate of its
effect in Europe--The attitude of Virginia 99

CHAPTER IX.

Dinner at General Scott’s--Anecdotes of General Scott’s early
life--The startling dispatch--Insecurity of the capital 105

CHAPTER X.

Preparations for war at Charleston--My own departure for
the Southern States--Arrival at Baltimore--Commencement of
hostilities at Fort Sumter--Bombardment of the fort--General
feeling as to North and South--Slavery--First impressions of
the city of Baltimore-- Departure by steamer 111

CHAPTER XI.

Scenes on board an American steamer--The Merrimac--Irish sailors
in America--Norfolk--A telegram on Sunday: news from the seat
of war--American “chaff” and our Jack tars 117

CHAPTER XII.

Portsmouth--Railway journey through the forest--The great Dismal
Swamp--American newspapers--Cattle on the line--Negro labour--On
through the pine forest--The Confederate flag--Goldsborough:
popular excitement--Weldon--Wilmington--The Vigilance
Committee 126

CHAPTER XIII.

Sketches round Wilmington--Public opinion--Approach to Charleston
and Fort Sumter--Introduction to General Beauregard--Ex-Governor
Manning--Conversation on the chances of the war--“King Cotton”
and England--Visit to Fort Sumter--Market-place at Charleston 138

CHAPTER XIV.

Southern Volunteers--Unpopularity of the Press--Charleston--
Fort Sumter--Morris’ Island--Anti-union enthusiasm--Anecdote
of Colonel Wigfall--Interior view of the fort--North versus
South 146

CHAPTER XV.

Slaves, their masters and mistresses--Hotels--Attempted
boat-journey to Fort Moultrie--Excitement at Charleston against
New York-- Preparations for war--General Beauregard--Southern
opinion as to the policy of the North, and estimate of the effect
of the war on England, through the cotton market--Aristocratic
feeling in the South 162

CHAPTER XVI.

Charleston: the Market-place--Irishmen at Charleston--Governor
Pickens: his political economy and theories--Newspaper offices
and counting-houses--Rumours as to the war policy of the
South 173

CHAPTER XVII.

Visit to a plantation; hospitable reception--By steamer to
Georgetown--Description of the town--A country mansion--Masters
and slaves--Slave diet--Humming-birds--Land irrigation-- Negro
quarters--Back to Georgetown 180

CHAPTER XVIII.

Climate of the Southern States--General Beauregard--Risks of the
post-office--Hatred of New England--By railway to Sea Island
plantation--Sporting in South Carolina--An hour on board a
canoe in the dark 195

CHAPTER XIX.

Domestic negroes--Negro oarsmen--Off to the fishing-grounds--The
devil-fish--Bad sport--The drum-fish--Negro quarters--Want of
drainage--Thievish propensities of the blacks--A Southern
estimate of Southerners 204

CHAPTER XX.

By railway to Savannah--Description of the city--Rumours of the
last few days--State of affairs at Washington--Preparations
for war--Cemetery of Bonaventure--Road made of oyster
shells--Appropriate features of the cemetery--The Tatnall
family--Dinner-party at Mr. Green’s--Feeling in Georgia against
the North 216

CHAPTER XXI.

The river at Savannah--Commodore Tatnall--Fort Pulaski--Want of
a fleet to the Southerners--Strong feeling of the women--Slavery
considered in its results--Cotton and Georgia--Off for Montgomery--
The Bishop of Georgia--The Bible and slavery--Macon--Dislike
of United States’ gold 225

CHAPTER XXII.

Slave-pens: negroes on sale or hire--Popular feeling as
to secession--Beauregard and speech-making--Arrival at
Montgomery--Bad hotel accommodation--Knights of the Golden
Circle--Reflections on slavery--Slave auction--The Legislative
Assembly--A “live chattel” knocked down--Rumours from the
North (true and false) and prospects of war 234

CHAPTER XXIII.

Proclamation of war--Jefferson Davis--Interview with the President
of the Confederacy--Passport and safe-conduct--Messrs. Wigfall,
Walker, and Benjamin--Privateering and letters of marque--A
reception at Jefferson Davis’s--Dinner at Mr. Benjamin’s 248

CHAPTER XXIV.

Mr. Wigfall on the Confederacy--Intended departure from the
South--Northern apathy and Southern activity--Future prospects
of the Union--South Carolina and cotton--The theory of slavery--
Indifference at New York--Departure from Montgomery 258

CHAPTER XXV.

The River Alabama--Voyage by steamer--Selma--Our captain and
his slaves--“Running” slaves--Negro views of happiness--
Mobile--Hotel--The city--Mr. Forsyth 265

CHAPTER XXVI.

Visit to Forts Gaines and Morgan--War to the knife the cry of the
South--The “State” and the “States”--Bay of Mobile--The forts and
their inmates--Opinions as to an attack on Washington--Rumours
of actual war 277

CHAPTER XXVII.

Pensacola and Fort Pickens--Neutrals and their friends--Coasting--
Sharks--The blockading fleet--The stars and stripes, and stars
and bars--Domestic feuds caused by the war--Captain Adams and
General Bragg--Interior of Fort Pickens 284

CHAPTER XXVIII.

Bitters before breakfast--An old Crimean acquaintance--Earthworks
and batteries--Estimate of cannons--Magazines--Hospitality--
English and American introductions and leave-takings--Fort
Pickens: its interior--Return towards Mobile--Pursued by a
strange sail--Running the blockade--Landing at Mobile 303

CHAPTER XXIX.

Judge Campbell--Dr. Nott--Slavery--Departure for New
Orleans--Down the river--Fear of cruisers--Approach to New
Orleans--Duelling--Streets of New Orleans--Unhealthiness of
the city--Public opinion as to the war--Happy and contented
negroes 325

CHAPTER XXX.

The first blow struck--The St. Charles Hotel--Invasion of Virginia
by the Federals--Death of Col. Ellsworth--Evening at Mr.
Slidell’s--Public comments on the war--Richmond the capital of
the Confederacy--Military preparations--General society--Jewish
element--Visit to a battle-field of 1815 338

CHAPTER XXXI.

Carrying arms--New Orleans jail--Desperate characters--
Executions--Female maniacs and prisoners--The river and levee--
Climate of New Orleans--Population--General distress--Pressure
of the blockade--Money--Philosophy of abstract rights--The
doctrine of State Rights--Theoretical defect in the
constitution 353

CHAPTER XXXII.

Up the Mississippi--Free negroes and English policy--Monotony
of the river scenery--Visit to M. Roman--Slave quarters--
A slave-dance--Slave-children--Negro hospital--General
opinion--Confidence in Jefferson Davis 366

CHAPTER XXXIII.

Ride through the maize-fields--Sugar plantation; negroes at
work--Use of the lash--Feeling towards France--Silence of the
country--Negroes and dogs--Theory of slavery--Physical formation
of the negro--The defence of slavery--The masses for negro
souls--Convent of the Sacré Cœur--Ferry-house--A large
landowner 378

CHAPTER XXXIV.

Negroes--Sugar-cane plantations--The negro and cheap labour--
Mortality of blacks and whites--Irish labour in Louisiana--A
sugar-house--Negro children--Want of education--Negro diet--Negro
hospital--Spirits in the morning--Breakfast--More slaves--Creole
planters 391

CHAPTER XXXV.

War-rumours, and military movements--Governor Manning’s slave
plantations--Fortunes made by slave-labour--Frogs for the
table--The forest--Cotton and sugar--A thunderstorm 405

CHAPTER XXXVI.

Visit to Mr. M‘Call’s plantation--Irish and Spaniards--The
planter--A Southern sporting man--The creoles--Leave Houmas--
Donaldsonville--Description of the city--Baton Rouge--Steamer
to Natchez--Southern feeling; faith in Jefferson Davis--Rise
and progress of prosperity for the planters--Ultimate issue
of the war to both North and South 410

MY DIARY NORTH AND SOUTH.