Chapter IV: Part 4

The room where we met was redolent with the perfumes of tobacco, and coffee was being served, but I soon found out that the proceedings were of a philosophical character, being assisted with explanations in English from Herr Buchmann, who spoke our language well.

After the lecture I tried to get away, feeling much ashamed of my inability to converse in German, but I was retained by Herr Buchmann, who drew me out on my own speciality, and I was glad to find by questions put from different parts of the room that most of those present could express themselves intelligibly in my native tongue.

“Had I any views of my own in writing?” Yes, I had by me a pamphlet, which was read, and which referred to military ballooning. My opinions so far commended themselves to those present that I was invited to become an honorary member, and of course signed my name.

By the time announcements had gone forth as to the first ascent, I had made so many acquaintances, that I positively required a new hat after so often raising my old one, according to the approved local fashion which they managed with so much ease and frequency, that I wondered how they could do so with such little wear and tear to the rim.

Mr. B---- informed me that he never could attain to that mode of salutation, he prided himself on being a Briton to the back bone, and satisfied himself, if not the ladies by a semicircular move of the right hand from his chest outwards. B---- was a favourite, I found, notwithstanding his brusque address. I began to feel afraid that he would neglect his own interests by devotion to our cause.

One day I overheard a protest from one of his best patrons, which terminated with “that confounded balloon,” but Dick always turned up when he was wanted, and now and again when he had better have been engaged elsewhere; he was a typical cockney of the unaffected, commercial class, never having taught his own language until he took up his abode in Elberfeld.

Very early on the morning of the ascent, I mean by 5 a.m., the voice of Herr Küpper might be heard over the housetops, and along the valley of the River Wupper. Mr. B---- was in attendance, and trying to soothe the lessee’s occasional irritability, but he had been upset by one Peter, a _Kellerman_ who was thought to have imbibed his master’s beer, brewed on the premises. Out of twenty workmen who had been told off for our assistance, this Peter had been placed by me to hold the neck part of the balloon, where the gas passes in through a hose.

After doing his best for some time, poor Peter’s eyes began to roll rather wildly, when Küpper, with more haste than discretion, sent him to the right about, which caused Peter to stumble against the balloon; Küpper, terribly indignant at this, gave him such a lift under the “stern sheets,” as the sailors say, that Peter impelled by the motive power of the governor’s left leg, flew, as it were, out of the enclosure; the incident caused some merriment, and at the same time it induced me to examine the connecting links of the hose pipe. They were all right, but below the hoop of the safety valve, Peter, in his eagerness to hold fast, had sent his nails through the silk, and had made a hole, so that the poor fellow was taking in the fumes of gas, which accounted for his stupefaction.

This explained--it is due to Küpper to say that Peter was recalled, cheered up, and told to have his coffee and something with it, on a table in the garden.

I soon repaired the fracture, when Peter volunteered to try again. I was not displeased with the proposal, and took pains to explain the best method of manipulating such delicate material.

Peter’s efforts were now a masterpiece of caution blended with dexterity, and his reappearance produced a feeling of admiration and sympathy among all who were assisting at the inflation.

The flow of gas was much stronger than I had expected, owing to our elevated position. An indication of perfect satisfaction on my part, caused Herr Küpper to light his morning cigar, an act which drew forth a flash of disapproval in my eyes and face, so that the big man almost quailed when I shouted that match striking so near the balloon was highly dangerous. Küpper immediately sent his sweet smelling cigar flying outside the circle; when I explained that it was the flame, not the tobacco that I considered risky.

Mr. B----, Mr. S----, and the engineer were now chuckling over the alternate indications of official temper, which two of us as the chief actors had displayed in our respective capacities.

“A certain amount of this sort of thing _goes down_ like goose stuffing,” said Mr. B----.

“And enforces authority and caution,” cried Mr. S----.

“Precisely,” admitted the teacher, “but I do hope that Küpper will restrain himself, his temper at times is alarming; but see how soft and subdued he looks now that Madame Küpper is approaching; no wonder, she has announced that breakfast is ready.”

“Meester Coxvel, Meinherren, beefsteak and coffee all ready.”

“No objection,” was the answer, as we were well ahead with the filling, “suppose we stop for an hour, Mr. S---- will keep watch until I return, and the men can have their coffee brought out.”

“And so I will,” said Mr. S----, “but I say B----, not too much steak, and no frogs, mind that.”

Mr. B---- simply waved his hand in reply, as the great man Küpper inspired him with a certain amount of awe, which there was no mistaking.

My first ascent from Elberfeld was on July 16th, 1848. It was almost a cloudless day, but not oppressively hot, as a fresh wind blew which made it desirable to call in thirty men to hold the netting.

I had appointed Mr. B---- to be my first lieutenant, and in order to assist me, he had obtained the permission of his pupils, most of whom were present, as much, probably, to see their preceptor in a new capacity, as to patronize me and the balloon.

The recreation grounds where the visitors had assembled, were of an oblong form, and perfectly dry, with gravel beneath. A vast number of tables were arranged in rows, so that families and parties of friends sat each at their own quarters.

The ladies were nearly all knitting or otherwise at work, and during the instrumental performances, gentlemen smoked their cigars, drank coffee, and conversed in a quiet way, which struck one as making a pleasing contrast with some of our out-door gatherings in England.

Mr. Abraham Küpper occupied a central position at a table fronting the balloon, and was surrounded by a choice staff of patrons, who, as the afternoon advanced, preferred sparkling wine to heavier beverage served in seidel glasses.

Mr. B----, who had most heroically stood his ground against the united force of a strong current of wind, which had ever and anon distorted the symmetrical form of the “Sylph,” and blown some of the men over, now sent to me to allow him to retire for one minute, not that he wished to relinquish his post of directing the men, but that he required to speak, for one moment, to Herr Küpper.

On seeing Mr. B---- approach, the noble proprietor who wore a plum coloured dress-coat, and a variegated smoking cap, filled a bumper of hock, so that by the time Mr. B---- had wiped his moist brow, and taken a seat by invitation, he found himself confronted with friends, together with an abundance of pungent snuff and cooling wine.

“I wonder which he will take first,” asked Mr. S----, watching Mr. B----’s movements askance.

“It’s a hundred to one he drinks the wine,” said I, but before I had finished speaking, his glass was empty, and quickly refilled by Herr Küpper, who, with a patronizing pat of the back, called him “gut boy,” alluding not, of course, to his smartness with the wine glass, but to his arduous duties around the balloon, by which he drew forth high encomiums from the spectators, as well as from Herr Küpper and myself.

Although Mr. B---- exceeded the time specified by himself for his absence, still I declined to trouble him to return, as I felt sure his physical exertions were already more than he was accustomed to, and I had an object in reserving his powers for the final effort, knowing that when the balloon was let up to its full height, it would roll about with great force, and require all the available strength to hold it in check.

The miniature bombardment, illustrative of the applicability of aërial shells to military purposes, was to take place on a larger scale than at Brussels.

I rather hoped to have Mr. B----’s company in my travels to Cloudland, but resolved not to propose it until the last moment.

When the car was being attached, Herr Küpper, and Mr. B---- entered the inner enclosure, and every assistance was tendered, but the wind unfortunately seemed late in lulling, and we were frequently thrown into ludicrous positions, by which the company was kept excited, and the juveniles furnished with matter for laughter.

Just before the shells and battery were fixed, Mr. B---- became the “observed of all observers,” and created no little merriment and clapping of hands.

I had called him to the car to suggest his ascending, and at that moment a cruel gust blew the balloon almost down to the ground, and upset Mr. B---- as he advanced, but recovering himself with admirable agility, he seized the netting by way of support, when the balloon again caught the breeze, and rolled round on the other tack, carrying the astonished teacher with it, so that, minus his hat, he was suspended some altitude from the ground, but held on with such resolute tenacity, that a cry was soon raised of “Bravo B----, very brave,” and as the “Sylph” backed round on the other side, Mr. B---- was rescued, and again led by Herr Küpper to the refreshment table, where he composed himself and received the congratulations of many of his friends.

“It will never do to take him up after that shaking,” urged Mr. S----.

“Right, I will start alone, next time there will be plenty of candidates; please to attach the shells, as I shall slip cable in five minutes.”

The band now formed round the car; Messrs. Küpper, and B---- held the last connecting link, and at six o’clock I released the “Sylph,” immediately lowered the battery, and on passing down the Jacob’s ladder, received a perfect ovation.

The shells fell quite regularly, and made an unusually loud report, reverberating among the adjacent hills on either side of the river Wupper.

The sky being clear from cloud, the smoke which followed each explosion produced a splendid effect, and imparted a totally new aspect to the appearance of a balloon in mid-air.

The “Sylph” not being fully inflated, and the car without passengers, I had some difficulty in retracing my steps after discharging the fireworks, whether the lookers on observed this, I could not say, but on resting half way up the rope ladder, I heard sounds more akin to a thrill of horror than a cheer; no doubt the position of dangling between the car and the battery, looked perilous, but it was not more so than some of the acts of seamen, although excessive height added of course to the risk.

The subsequent journey was very enjoyable, being my first aërial voyage in Prussia.

I had been cautioned, before ascending, against some large forests in the direction I should travel, and noticed them around me, without any considerable opening to come down in.

Being quite alone I was naturally disinclined to extend my journey beyond a reasonable distance, so I brought the “Sylph,” after attaining an elevation of 1,500 yards, to within a few hundred feet of the tree tops, and perceiving an open space hard by with a plantation of young pines, I dropped the grapnel just in an eligible clump of trees, and was glad to find that the wind had lulled, and that I was anchored firm and fast.

The car lodged in the boughs and only the balloon remained in sight; but as to whether there were people to be found in so outlandish a spot I began to be doubtful, as I had shouted for some time, and neither heard a human voice nor footsteps.

Repeated shouts had, however, some effect, as I perceived a country girl without shoes or stockings, and one or two men creeping along in attitudes of amazement towards the plantation in which the “Sylph” was moored; a few wood-cutters and children soon added to the number, and when they got pretty close I shouted again, but it was a wild English ye-upp, more like an omnibus driver’s warning than a German call for help.

The result was the people withdrew affrighted; if they could have seen me it might have altered the case, but I was ensconced in the trees, and my voice was neither familiar nor understandable.

Believing that curiosity would prevail, I contented myself by keeping quiet in the car for some little time, and before many minutes had elapsed I perceived the bare-legged girl moving stealthily towards me, supported by followers in the background; I purposely kept low and let out gas, by which means the basket slipped towards the ground as the girl pressed forward.

Just as she got within range I sprang up in the basket and seized the comely creature’s rounded arms, and drew her very near to me; she was then clearly less frightened, as she uttered a few guttural sounds accompanied with looks of kindness.

The men then ran up and helped to get the balloon clear of the trees, so that I received plenty of attention; and later, when I went to the damsel’s house, her mother made coffee for me, after which I was driven some miles to the railway station and returned to Elberfeld.

My second ascent from Johannisberg took place on July 24th. A third soon followed, but the fourth was chiefly remarkable from the fact that Herr Küpper ascended with me himself, although he had always said that no real or imaginable inducement would get him up in a balloon.

If Küpper’s courage was not in proportion to the bulk of his body he pulled himself very well together at the start. It was only when I left him alone to go down the ladder that large drops of perspiration started from his brow.

I promised to be back soon.

“Yah, aber mein Gott--if you go down headlong,” he added, but I heard this not, and might not have understood the German rendering if I had.

When the bombardment of Elberfeld commenced certain utterances did reach my ear in the second car below, but whether I was being cheered or denounced, whether Küpper was sick or joyful, I could not divine; this I know, that when I returned or (to use parliamentary language) when I was promoted from the lower house to the upper, I certainly did notice that my sole companion was in a pitiable plight so far as facial moisture was concerned.

A capacious handkerchief appeared drenched, and still the drops were oozing fast from the expanded pores of his skin. He must have lost a couple of pounds’ weight while I was down below. A rapid recovery, however, took place, especially after both of us had benefited by restoratives; then was Abraham more composed, and anxious not to go too far, as he looked forward, I could gather by his pointing to, and his remarks about Johannisberg, that he wished to get back as soon as convenient.

I managed accordingly, and just as the ball-room lights appeared resplendent, and the band was tuning up for a dance, we entered amidst cries of “Hoch Küpper;” “Leben sie lang Herr Coxvel,” &c.; and great indeed were the rejoicings which were, it is perhaps needless to observe, participated in by Mr. B---- and Mr. S----, _cum multis aliis_.

During the autumn of this year (1848) I made a dozen voyages from this place, and the confidence displayed by the proprietor was felt also by Madame Küpper, her daughter and sons, as also by Mr. B---- and a very long list of ladies and gentlemen, who by watching the safe return, and good reports of the pioneers who first ventured, felt satisfied of the pleasure to be derived, and were prepared to venture themselves.

Before making the two concluding trips of the season, a speculation was entered into by Herr Küpper, Mr. S----, and myself, at Cologne, with a view of trying an ascent during the grand visit of the late King of Prussia, on the occasion of the 600th anniversary of the building of the cathedral.

I had no faith myself in the pecuniary success of this undertaking, but the joint speculators were very sanguine of a golden harvest.

Although an immense number of strangers came into Cologne, and the hotels were filled to overflowing, the processions and religious ceremonies so engrossed public attention that the balloon grounds, after expensive preparations, were but poorly patronized.

A large sum of money was lost by these ill-conceived projects, which turned out a serious matter to us.

The last display but one was in the month of October at Johannisberg, and it was a night ascent with fireworks attached to the balloon--but fireworks altogether of a different kind to the shells which I had detached previously. In its way this might be called a grand pyrotechnic display _á la_ Vauxhall; but the specific gravity of the gas was not as on former days, and a humid atmosphere at night-fall increased the weight of the “Sylph” to such an extent that it would not raise the fireworks. I found that the whole weight would not ascend.

A buzz of disappointment then began to arise, but it was not of long duration, as I begged the firework maker to cut away about one-third of the cases, and calling for a rope some 300 feet long, which had been employed before for partial ascents, I got into the ring without any car, and gave directions to fire the fuse and let up to the full extent of the cable.

This was equally effective, and the people were much more pleased than if I had made a bungling effort by being overweighted.

I had afterwards the honour of being carried round the grounds and the ball-room on the shoulders of some of the most respected citizens.

There was yet one more aërostatic exhibition which I was called upon to engage in, and that was in connection with the annual _Shutzen Fest_ at Barmen, an adjoining neighbourhood, about three English miles from Herr Küpper’s noted locale.

These interesting gatherings are managed in a style of magnificence peculiar to Germany.

So far as the balloon was concerned it was not required for an ordinary ascent, but rather as an aërial chariot to do honour to the “King of the Feast,” and to afford a panoramic view to as many as obtained tickets for the privilege of being let up a tolerable altitude over the heads of the assembled thousands.

First came the king with cocked hat, feathers, and gay costume; and then a large silver goblet and a bottle of champagne were handed in; when we--that is the king and the aëronaut only--were let up to drink _Hoch_, to the success of the society.

His majesty accorded me a most fraternal greeting, in the midst of which the people cheered vociferously.

As if to prolong the compliment, the king continued some time with his arms round my shoulders, and this appeared to be the signal for renewed cheering, but Dick B---- who had charge of the ropes, and who knew how such German salutations bothered and perplexed an Englishman, gave a sudden jerk to the ropes, by which his majesty was reminded that he did not occupy an earthly throne; and thus freed from such distinguished favours, I gave the signal to haul down, when other members of the club had, each according to his merit, a ride in the balloon car.

The festivities and the rope ascents were kept up all that day and night. So far as the balloon was concerned, its duties were at an end by daybreak, but as the “Sylph” contained sufficient gas to raise me--although it had not been replenished for forty-eight hours--I made up my mind, instead of letting it out, to ascend to a great height, and witness the sunrise.

Although everybody appeared to be fagged out, and I was more fitted myself for rest than travelling, still the opportunity of so glorious a spectacle on a calm autumnal morning was not to be lost.

I therefore hurried on my departure; and slipped away with an easy ascending power, travelling very low for a few miles of country, when the gas began to expand more rapidly, and the balloon mounted up with an accelerated speed, as if it were a thing of life, apprehensive of being late to usher in the cheering king of day.

The barometer at starting was 29·70, and Reaumur’s thermometer was 9°. Just before six o’clock the former had fallen in the course of forty minutes to 17·50, and the latter to -3° or seven degrees of frost according to Fahrenheit. The effects of this amount of cold were doubtless greater, owing to fatigue, damp boots, and a want of exercise before starting.

I have been up more than twice the elevation since, without feeling the cold so severely, although Fahrenheit’s thermometer has registered several degrees below zero.

The sun’s rays in this morning ascent were clear, and though they pass through space without imparting much heat--unless they are reflected and radiated--yet it must be remembered that the balloon itself is a diminutive planet as it were, and intercepts the sun’s influence, if the atmosphere is free from clouds.

Before the sky had given the customary indication of sunrise to the city below, it was grand and impressive to contrast the high and rosy dawn, of which I had a view, with the dark gloom still pervading the earth towards the east; and even when in blood-red majesty the great luminary had risen above the ridge of the distant horizon, the land beneath was as yet comparatively dark, showing thereby the excessive elevation of the balloon.

I determined very soon after witnessing sunrise to seek a warmer atmosphere, and descended about 6000 feet rather quickly; here I lost the sun, but immediately he rose again for the second time, when a large looking tower, a few miles ahead, came into view; and, as I had not observed this place previously, I determined to get as near as possible, and again used the valve pretty freely to accomplish my object. When within 1200 feet of the ground, I was astonished to find that my downward course had been almost as rapid as the rising of the sun. He was again very near the visible horizon. Grand and singular were the views which I had on that memorable morning.

In this part of my experiences, I purposely abstain from giving details of the variations of height and temperature, because further on in the account of my life it will be quite in place to do so.

Even for scientific men, the constant repetition of monotonous tables is calculated to mar the freshness of continuous narrative. Besides, in public ascents for festive purposes, it has never been the custom of aëronauts to dot down more than occasionally the different states of the atmosphere. Indeed, if they attend mechanically to the requirements of the balloon, they have not much time for this work, unless they have assistance.

Without knowing what town it was in advance, I lowered on the leeward side, and noticed a great many priests and soldiers. As the grapnel trailed over a field, I heard a scream, like the voice of a child. On turning to see if the iron had caught anything, I saw a hare, hooked on to the prongs, but it was knocked off again before the progress of the balloon was arrested.

The town proved to be Munster and after _déjeuner_, and a description of the voyage to several of the good people of the place, I felt the over-powering effects of change of air, with no previous rest for two nights.

Before dropping off to sleep, I asked the hours of the post leaving. “If,” thought I, “the first is lost through somnolency, I shall certainly be ready for the last;” but it so happened that the two slipped past, and I did not awake until aroused for _abend brod_.

Early next day I wrote to Mr. S----, telling him of my whereabouts, and inviting him to join me for a few days at Munster. I received no reply, for the best of all reasons, he had not received the news, but intelligence of a rather gloomy character had reached Elberfeld, as it appeared by the _Zeitung_ of that town that I had been killed on my aërial journey, having fallen out of the car near Dortmund, half way between Barmen and Munster. On receipt of this intelligence, Mr. S---- and another gentleman named Drebes were despatched immediately to the spot where the disaster was said to have happened, but no authentic information could be obtained, beyond the fact that the “Sylph” had passed overhead, at a great elevation, between seven and eight o’clock A.M., on the morning referred to.

The party in search then decided to go on to Munster, but we fortunately met at Hamm railway junction, I having lost no time, after being killed by the newspapers, in getting back to establish my vitality.

It may well be supposed, that the interview on my arrival, was of an exciting order. It was not the first time that I had received the congratulations of people who had believed me dead, but this reception I met with was very sincere, and I am not sure that it didn’t put some new life into one who had been so sensationally deprived of existence by mere rumour.

Ballooning being over for the season, Mr. S---- returned to England, and as I was disposed to remain in Germany for the winter, it was not long before a proposal was made, that I should purchase the balloon and ascend entirely on my own account.

Having agreed to do so, I stayed at Elberfeld for the winter.

Before I left, the revolutionary movement had broken out afresh in the Rhine Province, and I had an opportunity of seeing a few shots fired, and a vast deal of excitement in Elberfeld.

After a great deal of agitation and discontent, a number of Prussian soldiers were on their march to preserve order. I was taking a stroll one day with Mr. B----, when it was reported that the military were approaching. Barricades had been formed already with the pavement stones from the streets.

There was a general uproar. We were spectators of the riot, and saw the mob try to fire the Mayor’s house, and eventually do a vast deal of injury.

On the arrival of a battery of nine-pounders, and a few companies of infantry, the barricades were manned, and flags of defiance hung out. The soldiers drew up in the principal square, and towards evening they moved forth, when we were not far from the barricades.

The street in which the first obstacle was raised, had riflemen at the windows; a captain was shot, and several soldiers killed or wounded before the discharge of cannon. The defenders of this barricade were either frightened or blown away much quicker than we expected, but as darkness crept on, the military withdrew, expecting a reinforcement in the morning from Düsseldorf.

During the night, Mr. B---- and I visited the barricades, it was not an easy matter to approach or enter them, but everybody knew the _luftschiffer_ or aëronaut, and the English teacher, and no one supposed that we were spies or combatants.

Among the gaily decorated occupiers of the barricades, were several of the men who had assisted as labourers at the balloon ascents; some of these men claimed an intimate acquaintanceship, and although they merely drank small beer when engaged in our service, yet now that the tables were turned, they invited us to drink something stronger, and it was not advisable to offer them a slight by an arrogant refusal.

The hours we spent among the barricades, and in the hotels which were behind them, proved entertaining and instructive.

At Easter in the year 1849, I made the first spring trip at Barmen, but before midsummer I started for Berlin, where notices were already out, to the effect that I would ascend shortly from the far-famed Kroll’s Gardens.

There were two points about my first exhibition in the Prussian capital, which caused it to be well remembered. The first was a public demonstration of the possibility of discharging petards with safety. The second was a riot in the _Thier Garten_, outside the Brandenburg Gate, where considerable damage was done to the shrubs, and a quarrel occurred with the constables, some of whom were severely beaten. A detachment of soldiers was called in to restore order, but General Wrangel was prevented from inspecting my apparatus, and that illustrious soldier was stoned on his way to the gardens, so that the police authorities prohibited any more ascents, and I was ordered to remove the cause of disorder, which was the balloon. But instead of obeying the instructions of the two fierce looking messengers from the President of Police, I caused them to be referred to Miss Kroll, the proprietress. I then ascended, as at Brussels, before the stated hour, offering as a reason, the following morning, that it was easier and more congenial with my feelings, to let out the gas at some distant place, than to be compelled to do so on my first essay in Berlin.

On due application on the part of myself and Miss Kroll, the prohibition against ascending again was withdrawn. I not only did so on June 11th, but on the 19th instant as well. This time the “Sylph” passed over Berlin, and was becalmed for more than an hour, affording an excellent opportunity for the Berliners to witness the bombardment.

There was so little air stirring this evening, that the descent was made on the military exercising grounds, outside the capital. It struck me on landing, that instead of letting the gas off, I would move the balloon outside the walls of Berlin, round to Kroll’s Gardens again, for a second ascent.

This was a difficult and tedious achievement, but the weather was favourable for its accomplishment, and it was my ambition to surprise and please the Garden visitors by exploits which had never been carried out before.

Miss Kroll’s brother accompanied me in the car, and we directed a number of soldiers and civilians to march on in the way considered best.

The wonder was that the police did not stop the procession. On arriving at a part of the outskirts, where some trees and water presented a barrier to our transit, an idea struck me that an immense amount of time and labour might be saved, if I dared to strike straight through Berlin, but Mr. Kroll was of opinion that the soldiers would not permit us to pass the gates, unless we had authority to do so.

“Let us try,” I urged, “we can beat an honourable and masterly retreat when we are rejected.”

The bold way in which we moved towards the nearest gate, with the “Sylph” towering sixty feet from the ground, completely astonished the sentinel, and the guard as well, which turned out and confronted the mob now becoming formidable.

Mr. Kroll was asked, when he explained my object, if I had my permission, to which I replied myself with, “here it is,” bringing forth the police permission to ascend that day.

I was not bound, as an Englishman and a stranger, to explain that the _erlaubnitz_ said nothing about _returning_, and as the good-natured soldiers principally looked to dates, stamps, &c., the gates were opened to let us through, but very few of our outside followers were allowed to pass, excepting the blue-coats off duty, who really were a protection.

The “Sylph” thus passed straight through the city, and was finally restored to the Gardens without accident before daybreak. The small gas-works connected with Kroll’s establishment was again set to work to generate coal gas, and the next day after being duly replenished, I ascended again.

But there was one great drawback to Kroll’s Gardens, and that was the long and weary time occupied in inflating. Their little holder contained only 7000 feet, and what was this towards 32,000 feet, the contents of the “Sylph.”

I found too, that the confidence inspired by my already numerous ascents secured me, if I could have taken them, fellow travellers who were ready and eager to pay a goodly premium for ascending under my guidance.

It became desirable therefore to tax the full capabilities of the balloon for passenger accommodation, and as a slow-filling, with heavy gas, made a difference in the lifting power, sometimes of two persons, it will be seen that my interests were, in more ways than one, at stake, and that a more fitting locality for the ascents became in every way desirable.

The _Schutzenhaus_, situated at the opposite side of Berlin, was suggested as most suitable for the filling, and thither I accordingly went after an amount of delay and circumlocution, which was damaging to my prospects during the finest period of the year.

Here I made a series of trips, always having a full cargo of passengers. During their progress I was induced by a speculative German to try a couple of ascents at Stettin, a seaport and consequently an uninviting place. The chances of success, however, were good, as there was a well built gas-works there, and no ascent had taken place previously.

All my requirements were met in first-class style, and the use of the gas-works yard, a new and commodious place, was granted for the accommodation of the public.

The first journey, which took place on September 2nd, 1849, was somewhat inland, but before the commencement of the second on the 6th, there were grave apprehensions that I should be driven out into the East Sea, and as the wind was boisterous, good fortune appeared to draw me back after going out, but I was favoured again before sunset, as I crossed the Dammsischezee in safety with my two companions and landed on the opposite side without inconvenience. My visit to Stettin was thoroughly remunerative and satisfactory. Having another ascent on September 9th, at Berlin, I returned and made it, my route after that being a long one, as it extended to Silesia.

Ballooning was little known in Breslau, and if I rushed on to that town there was no calculating what amount of cash I might pocket. Making fair allowance for sanguine expectations, and believing that something might be done, I joined a Prussian merchant who had been a good deal in England, and we started with a business-like arrangement which I had no cause to be dissatisfied with, when it came to various settlements in thalers and bank-notes.

Everything of a public character in Germany required a large amount of patience, time, and good temper, there are so many preliminaries and permissions to be thought of and obtained, that one cannot positively say that he will ascend at such and such a place until the invariable routine has been gone through, and much tact employed in making application without creating enemies. In my affairs there were nearly always difficulties to be surmounted. It was not easy to find a well sheltered ground where ladies as well as gentlemen could assemble, nor was it usual to meet with capacious gas pipes in a spot otherwise adapted for gathering.

We experienced the like drawback in Breslau, and, after repeated efforts, were compelled to fall back on the gas-works wherein to admit the inhabitants.

I had obtained sanction for three ascents, and the first took place on September 20th. The local newspapers emphatically stated on the following day that all Breslau turned out to see the English aëronaut mount to the skies.

For the three different classes we had places varying in comfort and price, but the first place with covered seats, was not considered by some hundreds of the spectators, half so favourable for seeing as a pile of coke, whereon both sexes seated themselves, notwithstanding certain damage to the gay dresses of the ladies. My companions were Herr Firle, the director of the gas-works, and Herr Gendry, a merchant.

At starting, Reaumur’s thermometer stood at 10°, barometer at 29·62, time 5h. 15m. The clouds stratus were 900 feet thick, when at 5h. 32m., height 3911 feet above the sea level, we broke into a clear space, but there was a second tier of rain cloud above, where the barometer read 23·4, the cold here was as low as 3¾ of Reaumur. We came down near _Schönbankwitz_, about eighteen miles from Breslau.

The second exhibition took place on September 22nd. The voyagers were Dr. Mettner, Herr Piller, and Herr Schulz. The meteorological features were not so widely different from the first, as to require special notice.

At the village of _Klein-Mochbern_ I let fall a parachute with two rabbits in the car, and we descended near _Minkau_.

The success of a third ascent would have been certain, both as regards public patronage and pecuniary results, but it was prevented from taking place by the owner of a small potato field adjacent to the gas-works. The people standing outside had done some damage, and the man renting it lodged a complaint with the authorities, but instead of simply asking me, as an Englishman would have done, to purchase the stock or make some adequate compensation, this selfish and mercenary fellow defeated himself; having chosen his remedy he was bound to pursue it. He was not aware that he would be outgeneralled himself. In full expectation of another ascent, he gave out that damages would be increased, and that he would then fall upon the Englishman for immense compensation, which he was sure to obtain.

I had the crop duly surveyed, and no real injury had as yet been sustained so that I decided without letting anybody know, besides a certain functionary whose approval was necessary, to get my passport returned in order to leave Breslau that very night. As the season was advancing and I wished to take my balloon due north, it was of importance that I should not be delayed by any vexatious proceedings such as that mentioned.

On the day following my departure, the potato dealer was apprised of my having left with balloon, bag and baggage, and that a third ascent would not take place, he then became as may be surmised, terribly irate, and immediately set on foot an enquiry whether the tradesmen employed by me, had been swindled or paid.

There is very little trouble in arriving at conclusions of this sort on the Continent, and when it was found that a good and highly flattering report from the police accompanied my departure, the over-reaching dealer saw that he had been completely done by a stranger, and that the act was countenanced and facilitated by his own neighbours.

The next town I was anxious to visit during the autumn of 1849, was Hamburg. There were reasons why I should entertain great expectations of doing well there.

Firstly, there was abundance of gas to be had, and secondly, there had been no ascent there for many years.

Under these auspices, I started in company with the Prussian with whom I had associated myself in Berlin, and we took up our quarters near the Alster, quite sanguine as to being able to find a public garden or other locality from which to ascend.

My first application was to President Gossler, the head official and senator, to whom I presented my credentials, I was graciously promised every assistance, and was requested to apply again when a convenient place was found.

We rose early next morning with the express object of exploring Hamburg. Two or three agents, with a view of assisting in the enterprise, accompanied us, and it was not long before a well enclosed plot of ground presented itself; but obstacles arose as fast as localities sprang into view, the chief of which was a consideration (pecuniary of course), which was, no doubt, the custom of the country, but not at all palatable to my taste in the loose way in which it was required to be made; for instance--it was whispered, that the golden key was the thing here to unlock all difficulties,--good, so it is in most places: “But in what form do you propose to apply it?” I enquired of our agent.

“A few pounds to pave the way as a presentation would be advisable.”

“Indeed,” said I to our Hebrew-looking adviser, “I do not understand that vague sort of trafficking; if the holder of a piece of property will set a price on the letting of it, I will say yes or no!”

“They will let you have it for nothing, but you must be polite and expend a few pounds first with those you wish to help you.”

“That is not my style of doing business, and I do not approve of it.”

“Then you will not be fortunate here.”

“That,” I replied, “we can only know by and bye.”

After days of laborious enquiry, we ascertained that there was a great deal of truth in what we had heard.

In communicating with the directors of the gas-works, we were advised to do the best we could in view of existing practices, but somehow we became irritated at them, and a degree of obstinacy followed which was hardly, perhaps, in accordance with worldly wisdom.

“At any rate,” as I observed to my joint speculator, “we will strike out alone, and try to do without these Jewish negociators.”

When we were seen to search about without companions or agents, great was the laugh at such British stupidity and meanness, but when we selected a piece of land, and the builders with their carts and boards were seen to assemble, and it became known that a vast _cirque_ was to be erected in the most charming locality, then it was admitted that we were decidedly knowing, and had done the smartest thing attempted in the free town for some considerable time.

Having then, without the co-operation or approval of the German Jews, chosen an eligible plot upon which we were permitted to erect a wooden enclosure of about 150 feet in diameter; notices were posted that an ascent would take place on the following Wednesday.

The local press cheered the venture with the most encouraging paragraphs, and took a retrospective glance at my previous ascents in Germany. This act of kindness was sufficient to ensure a successful campaign, the more so as my first ascent in October went off with great _éclat_, and I took with me two passengers, Mr. Ballheimer, and Herr Rieck.

These gentlemen, who journeyed with me into Holstein, came back with such a stirring account of cloudland, that I was safe as to passengers for the next three voyages. I made altogether four before the close of the season, the last on November 9th, was a remarkable trip, it will be interesting therefore to append the more striking particulars.

The final ascent was preceded by a number of captive trips to the extent of a rope two hundred feet long.

Many of the first-class people of Hamburg including the president and some of the senators, went up thus far, but the most popular candidate was a heroine weighing at least nineteen stone, and attired in a humble cotton dress, with a huge time-worn umbrella tucked under her left arm.

I had just decided upon concluding these captive ascent when the goodly dame burst out into an audible lamentation that she had travelled, I don’t know how many miles, on purpose to see the English balloon, and now her chance of going up in it was lost.

The spectators laughed heartily, and inferred by her corpulent appearance that her chances for a ride were few indeed. A policeman endeavoured to check her zeal, but she saluted me with her umbrella, and in return for this rough but well-meant compliment I left the enclosure and offered the good soul my arm, escorting her to the car amidst a roar of merriment which lasted for some minutes. Orders were given to let out to the full extent of the rope, and up we went amidst deafening cheers and lively music when the lady returned thanks with her umbrella and repeated the noddings from a shovel-shaped bonnet which bespoke her humble--though at the moment elevated--position.

This little episode being completed, I summoned the aspirants for aëronautic honours. They were Mr. H. Zeise of Altona, Dr. Braun, and Herr Kruss.

The barometer on the earth was 29.1½, and the temperature 10° Reaumur. We were eighty-eight Hamburg feet above the sea level where we started, and the wind was south.

The “Sylph” ascended soon after 2 p.m., and although the breeze was fresh the sky was clear, so that a fine view of the town, the Alster and the Elbe was to be had immediately on rising. After letting go a parachute and watching its downward course for ten minutes, Herr Zeise drew forth a bottle of champagne which had been some years in his cellar, and prepared us for a toast. It was not to be one of a personal or flattering character, but a heartfelt sentiment called forth by the country we were going in the direction of.

After discharging the cork which rolled away earthwards, Herr Zeise with uplifted cap and radiant face which inspired us all with enthusiasm, cried out “_Schleswig-Holstein lebe hoch_.” The other Hamburgers cordially echoed the feelings expressed, and I was ready myself to accord almost with anything, seeing that my companions were so friendly and communicative.

After the glasses were replenished there was an interchange of civilities in which the pilot was not neglected, and at three o’clock we became rather more philosophical and took down the following observations of elevation and time, although these little records in no way interfered with conviviality and enjoyment:--

Time. Barometer. Height in Feet. Thermometer.
3· 5 24·6·0 3348 10° R.
3·10 24·3·2 3628
3·15 23·0·4 3911
3·20 23·10·7 4084
3·25 23·11·3 4923 4° R.
3·30 23·7·3 5433
3·35 23·10·2 4185
3·40 24·1·0 3850
3·45 25·1·5 3786 6° R.

As we knew our direction was towards Kiel, I arranged just before 4 o’clock to descend, this was the more desirable from the fact that we were surrounded with cloud and could not see far ahead or beneath. When the balloon was within 600 feet of the earth, the report of several small arms aroused our attention, especially when the discharge was followed by the whirring of flying visitors in the shape of lead.

“Is it possible we have been shot at?” asked Dr. Braun.

I replied by begging the doctor to empty a bag of sand, and did so myself as quickly as possible.

There was little doubt in my own mind that we had been made a target of, because I distinctly heard the “Sylph” struck in the region of the equator, and discovered holes in that part afterwards.

Our downward course having been checked, we glided in a slanting direction towards the earth; but the attitude of the country people confirmed the belief that we were viewed as hostile rather than friendly visitors, and instead of the villagers greeting us as usual, they kept aloof, fired, and were presently joined by others with rifles, and had I not requested Herr Zeise to tell them we were friends from Hamburg, we should no doubt have received another volley directed at our own heads instead of the “Sylph.”

When this was explained the people ran to us and stated that they had taken us for Danish spies, and had really shot at the balloon.

I now proposed that instead of letting off the gas two of us should go a little farther.

Herr Zeise was allowed by general consent to have the preference, the other gentlemen being anxious to get back and report themselves.

We took in some earth to make up for the loss of weight, but the Holsteiners very correctly guessed that by ascending again we were not over well satisfied with our reception, notwithstanding the explanations about being taken for Danes.

We left the place where we were fired into at 4h. 27m., after which the following readings were taken of the second voyage:--

Time. Barometer. Height in Feet. Thermometer.
4·45 24·6·0 3306 5° R.
4·50 23·7·3 4378
4·55 23·1·7 4950 3° R.
5· 0 23·6·8 4430
5·15 descended near Kiel.

It was only the lateness of the season that prevented the repetition of my autumnal ascents; the public were anxious that they should not cease, and the seats in the car were bespoken for at least half-a-dozen trips. I determined then to re-commence in the spring of 1850, and went back to England in order to spend the winter at home.

In the year 1850 I returned to Hamburg, and before ascending gave lectures on aërostation at the _Ton Halle_, after which a new cirque was erected outside the _Dammthor_, where I made several ascents.

When the fine weather commenced two or three distinguished men came northward on purpose to accompany me. The first was Count Schaffgotsch, of Berlin, a scientific man and well-known amateur chemist. The Count, by his own wish, was the only passenger on May 22nd, when we journeyed into Hanover.

On May 26th Count Paul Esterhazy did me the honour of taking a seat by my side, and opposite to us sat Captain James, an Englishman, and a merchant of Hamburg.

We had a splendid trip in the direction of Lubeck, and there was one incident attending it which vastly pleased the Hungarian nobleman, and produced no small amount of excitement at our descent.

As we were travelling rapidly in the direction of the East Sea it was necessary to come to an anchorage, after emerging rather suddenly from a dense cloud. On the leeward side of a wood a good landing place was descried, but in scudding over the tree tops the grapnel caught a lofty branch, and the “Sylph” was brought up unexpectedly while we were yet hovering over the forest. There were only two courses open to us for getting free; the first was to slip the cable and leave the grapnel behind; the second remedy was for one passenger to descend the rope and loosen the iron, and get down the tree as best he could. My own duty consisted in remaining by the “Sylph,” for the guidance of the remaining passengers, but fortunately Captain James was ready for the emergency, and dashed over the side of the car in British seaman fashion, lowering himself away hand under hand as we cheered him down until he was lodged in the branches, and reported that he could push out the flukes of the grapnel in a “brace of shakes.”

The noble fellow lost his hat in descending, which was blown away and stuck in a bough.

Before the iron was pushed out, I asked what height Captain James had to go down and whether he could manage the tree.

“Never mind me,” said the sailor, “look out for a lurch and do not go far, as I shall be rather out of my reckoning when I get below.”

Having cleared the trees I threw open the valve to its full extent, and we made good a landing not far from the place where James landed on the tree top.

Two or three men were immediately sent to the wood with Mr. H----, our fellow voyager, to assist Captain James.

Some hundreds of country people collected in an incredibly short time, and before the gas had escaped, another hundred or two bore down upon us with an object of attraction in the shape of a sturdy but rather short man with a white kerchief bound round his head. The mob appeared to be impressed with the belief that the robust stranger was either wrong in his head or injured in that part.

He came tripping along with a firm and buoyant gait, but had evidently lost temper, and his hat into the bargain.

“Do pray,” said Captain James, “assure these good people, that I am uninjured, some of them saw me come down the tree rather sharp, and no doubt take me for an orang-outang, others imagine my figure-head is smashed--do tell them I am all right, and as lively as a kitten.”

“Of that I am sure they have had convincing proof; remove your handkerchief and they will then see that your head is as sound as need be.”