Chapter 2 (2)

At daylight the next morning we steered round the land, and passing under the base of Mount Roe, we entered a strait that separates it from Greenhill Island; which is remarkable for having its north-west end terminated by a conspicuous bluff. The coast now took an easterly direction as far as the eye could reach, with a channel of from three to eight miles broad between it and a range of islands (which were named in compliment to the late Vice-Admiral Sir George Hope, K.C.B., then holding a seat in the Board of Admiralty). At noon the tide began to ebb, when we anchored near the land at about six miles east of Mount Roe.

The thermometer now ranged between 80 and 90 degrees, but the heat was by no means oppressive.

April 29.

By the next day at noon we had penetrated four leagues within Sir George Hope's Islands, when the water became so shoal that we could not approach an opening that was seen in the land to the south-eastward; after trying in several directions, the cutter was anchored, and Mr. Roe was sent to sound in a south direction in search of a passage out; but, as it appeared to be shoal and some parts were already dry, it was decided that we should return by the way we came; since our object was not so much to lay down the extent of the banks and directions of the channels, as to find rivers, and trace the coastline. The opening to the South-East of our anchorage certainly appeared to be sufficiently interesting to examine, but we had formed very sanguine expectations of discovering something of much greater importance at the bottom of the bay, and we were naturally anxious to reach it as soon as possible.

On constructing the chart of this part of the coast, it appeared that the land to the eastward of this anchorage is an isthmus four or five miles in breadth, separating the body of water from the bottom of Mountnorris Bay. The peninsula thus formed was honoured by the appellation of Cobourg, after His Royal Highness Prince Leopold.

During the day large smokes were observed on the south horizon, without any appearance of land near them.

1818. May 1.

On our way out we anchored under one of Sir George Hope's Islands, which, on the occasion of our landing upon it the next morning (1st May), was called May-day Island: it is about two miles long, and nearly the same distance across; its formation appears to have been originally of sand that has accumulated upon a rocky basis, and has gradually grown into an island; it is thickly covered with a forest of dwarf trees and impenetrable brushwood. Some recent impressions of a human foot on the sand below high-water mark were seen, and several old fireplaces, and one or two of more recent date were observed, around which were strewed the remains of shell-fish repasts; the natives, however, did not make their appearance.

When returning on board we endeavoured to pass out between May-day and Greenhill Islands, but a bar of sand that appeared to stretch across obstructed our progress: the weather being fine and the sea very smooth, we endeavoured to force her over, but as we did not succeed, we anchored for the night near our former position, to the eastward of Mount Roe.

May 2.

The next day we passed out between the Mount and Greenhill Island, and at night anchored on the south side of May-day Island, at eight miles distance from it.

May 3.

The following day we made some progress to the South-East, and by the afternoon obtained a glimpse of some land bearing between South 3 degrees West and South 18 degrees East.

May 4.

And at sunset the next evening the lowland was traced as far to the southward as South-South-East, upon which several detached hills were seen which probably may have some connexion with Wellington Range.

May 5.

The next day the cutter was anchored within a mile and a half of the south point of a considerable opening, which the boats were prepared to examine.

May 6.

And at daybreak we commenced its exploration, but the greater part of the tide was expended before we reached the entrance, which is fronted by a bank of mud on which there was not more than twelve feet water; the depth, however, increased after we entered the river to four and five fathoms; and as we proceeded up we found the channel to be seven and eight fathoms deep. The banks on either side were very low; they were composed of a soft mud, and so thickly lined with mangroves as to prevent our landing until we had pulled up for seven or eight miles. At ten o'clock the flood ceased and the ebb, setting with considerable strength, prevented our proceeding higher up: here we landed, and after spending some time in taking bearings and examining the country, we returned to the cutter, which we reached early in the afternoon.

The banks where we landed were about two hundred yards apart, but were so low and without a hillock to ascend or a tree to climb to enable us to obtain a view of the country, that we could form but a very slight opinion of the place. A sugar-loaf-shaped hill, which was also visible from the anchorage, bore South 80 degrees East; at the distance of a league was a rocky hill that bore North 88 1/4 degrees East; and, five or six leagues off, was a range of hills extending from East by South to South 27 degrees East. In all other directions the eye wandered over a dreary, low, and uninterruptedly flat country; which in most parts is covered with an arundinaceous grass.

The mangrove bushes on the banks of the river, which was quite salt, were crowded with the nests of an egret, in which the young birds were nearly fledged. Hawks, wild ducks, pelicans, and pigeons, were also abundant, and an immense flight of white cockatoos hovered over the mangroves, and quite disturbed the air with their hideous screamings. A small black water-bird, about the size of a pigeon, with a white neck and a black ring round it, was observed, but not near enough to enable us to ascertain its species. On our course up and down the river we encountered several very large alligators, and some were noticed sleeping on the mud. This was the first time we had seen these animals, excepting that at Goulburn Island, and, as they appeared to be very numerous and large, it was not thought safe to stop all night up the river, which we must have done had we remained for the next flood-tide.

No inhabitants were seen, but the fires that were burning in all directions proved that they could not be far off.

May 7.

The next morning we were underweigh and steering along the coast to the westward towards a low but extensive island; and, as we approached, we found that it fronted a very considerable opening in the land, extending into the interior under the eastern base of Mount Hooper. The channel between the island and the main appearing clear, we did not hesitate to pass through, and within half a mile of the island, where the channel was evidently the deepest, we sounded in eight and nine fathoms. As soon as we entered the opening it assumed a similar appearance to that of the river we examined yesterday, but it was very much more considerable and excited very sanguine hopes in our minds. Besides the low island above-mentioned there is another of smaller size between it and the west point of entrance; so that there are three entrances. The islands were called Barron and Field Islands, after my friend, then presiding as Judge of the Supreme Court of New South Wales.

As we proceeded, the depth continued to be so even, and to shoal so gradually, that we ran up it for six miles, when, as it was near noon, we anchored and landed on the eastern bank, to observe the sun's meridional altitude; but, from the muddy state of the banks, we had great difficulty in reaching the shore. On returning to the vessel, we sailed further up, and, at high water anchored near the end of the first reach, and made preparations for its further investigation. The tide then began to ebb at the rate of three miles per hour, and continued with nearly that velocity during the whole tide. During the evening our preparations were completed.

May 8.

And, at daybreak the next morning, I set off with Mr. Roe and Mr. Cunningham for my companions: when we left the cutter the flood was just making, so that we had the advantage of the whole of the tide, which lasted until noon, when we landed, and observed the latitude to be 12 degrees 38 minutes 47 seconds. Our situation was within three miles of a hill bearing South 25 1/2 degrees West, the bearing of which having previously been taken from the cutter's present anchorage, enabled me to decide with tolerable accuracy upon the station we had reached.

This river, as far as we had examined it, a distance of thirty-six miles, differed from the other only in being of larger size. At the place where the latitude was observed, it was about one hundred and fifty yards wide. From the anchorage the channel deepened from five to eight fathoms, and this depth continued tolerably even and regular for nine miles. It then began to decrease; and, at the furthest part we reached the depth at high water was two and a half fathoms. The banks, which were in most parts thickly lined with mangroves, and in no part more than three feet above high-water mark, are formed of soft mud, which rendered landing, except at high water, impossible. The country on all sides presented a low level plain, the monotony of which was occasionally relieved by a few wooded hills, and some groups of trees, among which the palm-tree was conspicuous, and tended in a trifling degree to improve the view, which, to say the best of it, was unvaried and heavy. The low land, at least that part over which the fires had not passed, Was covered with a thickly matted broom-grass; and, where it was burnt off, the soil was observed to be composed of a hard and stiff clay, the surface of which bore the appearance of having been frequently inundated, either by high tides, or, more probably, by freshes in the rainy season.

We saw very few birds, and those were chiefly cockatoos; but alligators were as numerous as in the other river, whence the name of Alligator Rivers were bestowed upon them.

The water where we landed was fresh enough to be nearly drinkable, and probably would be quite sweet at half ebb.

May 8.

The ebb-tide did not serve to carry us on board, and the boat's crew were so fatigued by having been pulling all day, that we were obliged to drop the grapnel within seven miles of the cutter to await the turn of tide, so that it was not until midnight that we reached the vessel much exhausted.

May 9.

The next day we left our anchorage, and took up a station within Field Island, intending, if possible, to go through the passage between Barron and Field Islands. At low water the banks dried for a considerable extent.

May 10.

But as there was every appearance of the existence of a narrow passage between the islands, we ran through the next morning at high water; and, in passing the narrows, had over-falls between three and fifteen fathoms: as soon as we reached a favourable bottom, we anchored in four fathoms in order to await the uncovering of the shoals at low water, so that we might see our way on, and construct the chart of this entrance with more correctness. Field Island is low and thickly wooded, and is surrounded by a rocky shoal which dries at low water, and extends to a considerable distance off its North-West end. The smoke of a fire having been seen on the island when we passed, it was presumed to have been at that time occupied by natives.

Another opening was observed to the westward of the river we last examined. and as it bore a similar appearance, the name of Alligator Rivers was extended to it.

May 11.

The next morning we resumed our course to the westward; and, after coasting along a low shore, anchored at night in the South-West corner of the gulf, in three and a half fathoms; the land, from being so low, was scarcely distinct, but it appeared to be sandy.

May 12.

The next day we passed a considerable opening, or, as it was thought to be, a bight; for many patches of land were observed on the horizon: The wind blew so fresh from the eastward that I did not venture to run into it, but steered towards some land to the northward that formed the northern boundary of the opening, and which proved to be that which had been seen by us from Popham Bay; and as it afterwards proved to be an island, it was called after the title of the noble Viscount, now First Lord of the Admiralty.

The Gulf which we have now explored is that which was discovered by three Dutch vessels that sailed from Timor in 1705, and to which they gave the name of The Great Bay of Van Diemen. They entered it but did not reach its bottom, having been very likely prevented by the strong tides which in the entrance of Dundas Strait are altogether uncommon. From the nature of the Alligator Rivers there is no doubt but that there are others of a similar character that empty themselves into the Gulf between the easternmost Alligator River and Sir George Hope's Islands, although they are, probably, of smaller size and of less importance. At midnight the cutter, drifted by the tide, passed close to the easternmost point of Melville Island near to which two bright fires were burning.

May 13.

The next morning at eight o'clock we were within two miles of Cape Fleeming, the north-easternmost extremity of the island; and, bearing up along the north coast of Melville Island, passed close to Point Jahleel. On a sandy beach to the westward of the last point two natives were walking, but they passed on without noticing our presence. Eight miles to the South-West of Point Jahleel is Brenton Bay, which we had nearly passed before it was observed: the vessel was brought to the wind.

May 14.

But it was the next morning before we succeeded in fetching into the opening. It terminates in an inlet which probably runs some little distance into the interior of the island. It is about five miles deep, but the depth is so trifling that we were prevented from running into it far enough to obtain shelter from the wind. In the evening we anchored in a picturesque bay which, although open to the north, offers a tolerable shelter during the easterly monsoon: the beach is sandy, but is probably shoal and of rocky approach. The country appeared verdant, and the hills are thickly wooded; at the bottom of the bay a shoal opening trends in between two hills, over which, in the evening, seven natives were observed to cross in a canoe. This was called Lethbridge Bay. On the western side of the bay is a range of cliff like the pipe-clay cliff of Goulburn Island, the upper half being red, and the lower half white; and four miles off the west point of the bay are two patches of rocks on which the sea breaks; these were called the Madford Shoals.

May 15.

Twenty-five miles west from Lethbridge Bay is a projecting point from which the coast takes a north-westerly direction. In passing a breaker that lies off the point our cook fell overboard, but the boat was quickly lowered and picked him up; for some time his life was despaired of, but a little attention, and the warmth of the sun's heat, at last restored him.

On each side of the point which is formed behind Karslake Island is a bay; and at the bottom of each there appeared to be a shoal opening. The coast is here higher than usual, and is thickly wooded; but the coastline to the northward is formed of high cliffs without much wood, and of a remarkable white colour.

May 16.

The next morning we passed round Cape Van Diemen; and in the evening anchored off a tabular-shaped hill that formed the south end of a sandy bay. It was dark when we anchored.

May 17.

The next morning we found that we had anchored in the mouth of a very considerable river-like opening, the size of which inspired us with the flattering hope of having made an important discovery, for as yet we had no idea of the insularity of Melville Island.

The table-shaped hill near our anchorage was named Luxmore Head, and the bay to the north was called St. Asaph's, in compliment to the Right Reverend the Lord Bishop of that diocese.

The day being Sunday our intention was, after taking bearings from the summit of Luxmore Head, to delay our further proceeding until the next morning, but the circumstance that occurred kept us so much on the alert that it was anything but a day of rest. Having landed at the foot of the hill we ascended its summit, but found it so thickly wooded as to deprive us of the view we had anticipated; but, as there were some openings in the trees through which a few distant objects could be distinguished, we made preparations to take their bearings, and while the boat's crew were landing the theodolite, our party were amusing themselves on the top of the hill.

Suddenly however, but fortunately before we had dispersed, we were surprised by natives, who, coming forward armed with spears, obliged us very speedily to retreat to the boat; and in the sauve qui peut sort of way in which we ran down the hill, at which we have frequently since laughed very heartily, our theodolite stand and Mr. Cunningham's insect-net were left behind, which they instantly seized upon. I had fired my fowling-piece at an iguana just before the appearance of the natives, so that we were without any means of defence; but, having reached the boat without accident, where we had our muskets ready, a parley was commenced for the purpose of recovering our losses. After exchanging a silk-handkerchief for a dead bird, which they threw into the water for us to pick up, we made signs that we wanted fresh water, upon which they directed us to go round the point, and upon our pulling in that direction, they followed us, skipping from rock to rock with surprising dexterity and speed. As soon as we reached the sandy beach on the north side of Luxmore Head, they stopped and invited us to land, which we should have done, had it not been that the noises they made soon collected a large body of natives who came running from all directions to their assistance; and in a short time there were twenty-eight or thirty natives assembled. After a short parley with them in which they repeatedly asked for axes by imitating the action of chopping, we went on board, intimating to them our intention of returning with some, which we would give to them upon the restoration of the stand, which they immediately understood and assented to. The natives had three dogs with them.

On our return to the beach the natives had again assembled, and shouted loudly as we approached. Besides the whale boat, in which Mr. Bedwell was stationed with an armed party ready to fire if any hostility commenced, we had our jolly-boat, in which I led the way with two men, and carried with me two tomahawks and some chisels. On pulling near the beach the whole party came down and waded into the water towards us; and, in exchange for a few chisels and files, gave us two baskets, one containing fresh water and the other was full of the fruit of the sago-palm, which grows here in great abundance. The basket containing the water was conveyed to us by letting it float on the sea, for their timidity would not let them approach us near enough to place it in our hands; but that containing the fruit, not being buoyant enough to swim, did not permit of this method, so that, after much difficulty, an old man was persuaded to deliver it. This was done in the most cautious manner, and as soon as he was sufficiently near the boat he dropped or rather threw the basket into my hand and immediately retreated to his companions, who applauded his feat by a loud shout of approbation. In exchange for this I offered him a tomahawk, but his fears would not allow him to come near the boat to receive it. Finding nothing could induce the old man to approach us a second time, I threw it towards him, and upon his catching it the whole tribe began to shout and laugh in the most extravagant way. As soon as they were quiet we made signs for the theodolite stand, which, for a long while, they would not understand; at one time they pretended to think by our pointing towards it, that we meant some spears that were lying near a tree, which they immediately removed: the stand was then taken up by one of their women, and upon our pointing to her, they feigned to think that she was the object of our wishes, and immediately left a female standing up to her middle in the water and retired to some distance to await our proceedings. On pulling towards the woman, who, by the way, could not have been selected by them either for her youth or beauty, she frequently repeated the words "Ven aca, Ven aca," accompanied with an invitation to land; but, as we approached, she retired towards the shore; when suddenly two natives, who had slowly walked towards us, sprang into the water and made towards the boat with surprising celerity, jumping at each step entirely out of the sea, although it was so deep as to reach their thighs. Their intention was evidently to seize the remaining tomahawk which I had been endeavouring to exchange for the stand, and the foremost had reached within two or three yards of the boat when I found it necessary, in order to prevent his approach, to threaten to strike him with a wooden club, which had the desired effect. At this moment one of the natives took up the stand, and upon our pointing at him, they appeared to comprehend our object; a consultation was held over the stand which was minutely examined; but, as it was mounted with brass and, perhaps on that account, appeared to them more valuable than a tomahawk, they declined giving it up, and gradually dispersed; or rather pretended so to do, for a party of armed natives was observed to conceal themselves under some mangrove bushes near the beach, whilst two canoes were plying about near at hand to entice our approach; the stratagem, however, did not succeed, and we lay off upon our oars for some time without making any movement. Soon afterwards the natives, finding that we had no intention of following them, left their canoes, and performed a dance in the water, which very conspicuously displayed their great muscular power: the dance consisted chiefly of the performers leaping two or three times successively out of the sea, and then violently moving their legs so as to agitate the water into a foam for some distance around them, all the time shouting loudly and laughing immoderately; then they would run through the water for eight or ten yards and perform again; and this was repeated over and over as long as the dance lasted. We were all thoroughly disgusted with them, and felt a degree of distrust that could not be conquered. The men were more muscular and better formed than any we had before seen; they were daubed over with a yellow pigment, which was the colour of the neighbouring cliff; their hair was long and curly, and appeared to be clotted with a whitish paint. During the time of our parley the natives had their spears close at hand, for those who were in the water had them floating near them, and those who were on the beach had them either buried in the sand, or carried them between their toes, in order to deceive us and to appear unarmed; and in this they succeeded, until one of them was detected, when we were pulling towards the woman, by his stooping down and picking up his spear.

Finding that we had no chance of recovering our loss, we returned on board, when the natives also withdrew from the beach, and did not afterwards show themselves.

May 18.

The next morning we weighed with the flood and worked up the opening against the wind for sixteen or seventeen miles, when the tide turned, and we anchored in eleven fathoms. In most parts the banks were inaccessible, being nearly overrun with mangroves; but the low appearance of the country within and the mischievous disposition of the natives made me less anxious to examine into the thick woods that surrounded us on all sides. Wherever a clear space presented itself, the sago palm was seen mixed with the fan palm, the pandanus and other trees, among which the eucalyptus as usual appeared to be the most abundant.

May 19.

At eight o'clock the next morning we were again underweigh; and, with the flood-tide in our favour, made rapid progress. The opening had, however, become so much contracted, that it was found prudent to have a boat hoisted out, with the kedge and a hawser ready if the vessel should get on shore. After proceeding two miles further, it took a more easterly course, and as we advanced the general direction of the reaches were east and south. Our speculations ran high with regard to what it might be, and the probability of its being a large river appeared to our sanguine minds so certain that we never once fancied it could be otherwise; when suddenly the open sea appeared, and, demonstrating it to be merely a strait, at once dispelled our hopes.

Upon reaching between the two heads which form the south entrance of this Strait, the tide turned, and, beginning to run so swiftly back that we were prevented from getting out, obliged us very reluctantly to return to an anchorage within, which was not easily found, as the bottom was rocky and thickly studded with shoals. The anchor was at last dropped at three miles within the entrance near an open cliffy bank, on which there were two canoes hauled up, but no sign of their owners.

The night was squally, and the tide ran at the rate of nearly four knots.

May 20.

At low water the next morning the shoals were exposed, and showed us the dangers we had unknowingly encountered in passing over them when they were covered. The passages between them were found to be so intricate that, after sounding them for some time, we gave up all idea of passing out by the south entrance.

May 21.

And, returning by the way we came, the next day anchored near our former position in St. Asaph Bay.

The Strait was named Apsley; and the land on the western side which had thus been proved to be insulated was named in compliment to the Right Honourable Earl Bathurst, his Majesty's Principal Secretary of State for the Colonies.

May 22.

The day following we coasted the North-West side of Bathurst Island; and at sunset anchored off a point from which a reef projects for a considerable distance into the sea.

May 23.

The next day we anchored off an opening at the bottom of an extensive bay, in three and a half fathoms.

It happened to be high water when we anchored; and, although we were three miles from the shore, the tide of ebb reduced the depth so much that there was reason to apprehend the cutter's being left dry at low water; the depth was, however, ten feet and a half, which was only eighteen inches more than the cutter's draught.

May 23.

The opening off which we had anchored was formed between two low, sandy points, and trended in to the South-East; on the land at the back was a long round-backed hill, which, when viewed from the northward, had a flat-topped appearance.

May 24.

Having sounded the space between the anchorage and the shore, it was found that we were on the outer edge of a bar, within which the water deepened to five fathoms, and in the entrance there was as much as eleven and twelve fathoms; we therefore weighed the anchor, and, the wind blowing out, worked up towards the opening, which, as the tide was flowing, it did not take long to effect. On passing the bar, we had not less water than eleven feet (low water soundings), after which the depth gradually increased. An anchorage was taken up in the evening within the entrance.

May 25.

And the next day, after an attempt to reach further up, in which we only succeeded to the distance of a mile, the examination was completed by our boat.

It was found to run in, gradually narrowing and decreasing in depth for eight miles, and to terminate in two salt-water creeks. The banks on both sides were impenetrably lined with mangroves, which effectually defied our attempts to land. Several creeks, communicating with the low inundated land behind the mangroves, joined the main stream at intervals on both sides; but they were not interesting enough in their appearance to detain us. We returned to the cutter at night.

May 26.

And the next day shifted our berth to an anchorage close to the shore on the north side of the entrance, for the purpose of wooding, where the trees were so convenient and close at hand that we completed our stock before dark.

During the evening, whilst we were occupied at the wooding-place, a party of natives were observed running towards us along the beach on the south side without the port, apparently returning from a hunting excursion, for the woods on the south side of the bay had been on fire for the last two days. As they approached they retired behind the beach among the trees, and, upon their reaching the opposite side of the entrance, crept upon their hands and knees behind the bushes, where they remained, as they thought, concealed until the evening. A little before dark they were observed to creep out and range themselves upon the beach, as if meditating upon their plans for the night, but by this time it was so dark that we could not see what they afterwards did; in order to deter them from approaching us, a musket was fired over their heads, and if this had the desired effect, it was a happy circumstance for them, for an immense shark was caught in the middle of the night, which, from the extraordinary capacity of its mouth and maw, could have swallowed one of them with the greatest ease. On opening the animal, we fully expected to discover the limbs of some of the natives, who we assured ourselves had crossed over to our side the water; but we only found a crab that had been so recently swallowed that some of our people made no hesitation in eating it for their supper. The night passed without our being disturbed by or hearing anything of the natives.

May 27.

But, at daylight, on looking at the place where they had been concealed during the last evening, a canoe, which had been observed hauled up among the bushes, was missing, and we concluded that they were close to us; this proved to be the case, for no sooner had we cleared the point, than the natives sallied forth from the thicket, and, running up to their middles in the water to within thirty yards of the vessel, set up a loud shout which startled us not a little; for, busied as we were in securing the anchor and making sail, our attention at the moment was otherwise directed; and the first intimation that we had of their vicinity was from the noise they made, which was accompanied by violent gestures and pressing invitations for our return; but we continued on our way, and disregarded all their solicitations. They were evidently very much disappointed, since they expected to get some axes from us, for they made the same signs as the Luxmore Head natives had done by repeatedly imitating the action of chopping. On the south shore there were some women and children under the protection of two natives, whose voices were also loudly raised for our recall. The natives on our side were unarmed, but two bundles of spears were detected, propped up against a tree, close at hand. After some time they waded back to the shore, and slowly walked towards our wooding-place, where they, of course, found a chisel that had purposely been left for them upon the stump of a tree which had been felled by our wooding-party.

As soon as we crossed the bar we anchored, in order to obtain some lunar distances to fix the longitude of the port, as well as to bring up and complete the chart of this part of the coast. During the day, the natives remained at our wooding-place, and set the bushes on fire, the smoke of which enveloped the horizon and the neighbouring coast.

The names of Port Hurd and Mount Hurd were given to the harbour and the round-backed hill, after the late Captain Thomas Hurd of the Royal Navy, the Hydrographer of the Admiralty; the outer bay was called Gordon Bay.

May 28.

We left Gordon Bay the next morning, and passed round its low South-West extremity, which proved to be Captain Baudin's Cape Helvetius. From this point the coast trends to the southward to Cape Fourcroy. In this interval the shore is formed by cliffs of a very dark red colour, and, half way between, is a projecting sandhill of remarkable appearance.

May 29 and 30.

During this and the following day we made very little progress. On the 30th at daylight we had a southerly wind; by eight o'clock we saw the land in patches to the northward, and some low islands bearing east. The land to the north was a part of the south side of Melville Island. The wind being fresh from the eastward we attempted to beat to windward, with the intention of anchoring near the islands, but the bottom was too rocky to admit of it. We then endeavoured to pass between them and Melville Island, but the ground was also so rocky and irregular that we desisted; and after an unsuccessful attempt to reach the southern pass, we steered off to the westward. This group was called Vernon's Islands. They are situated in mid-channel of the Strait that separates Melville Island from the main, which was named in honour of His Royal Highness the Duke of Clarence. The group consists of four low islands; they are each surrounded by a belt of mangroves, and are probably connected by reefs to the south shore.

May 31.

The next morning after a stormy night we steered to the northward, and made the south entrance of Apsley Strait, which was recognised by the peculiar shape of Buchanan's Islets lying off it, one of which has a flat-topped summit.

The time had now arrived for our leaving the coast: our provisions were drawing to an end, and we had only a sufficiency of bread to carry us back to Port Jackson, although we had been all the voyage upon a reduced allowance: our water had also failed, and several casks which we had calculated upon being full were found to be so bad that the water was perfectly useless: these casks were made at Sydney, and proved, like our bread casks, to have been made from the staves of salt-provision casks: besides this defalcation, several puncheons were found empty, and it was therefore doubly necessary that we should resort to Timor, without any more delay.

We therefore bore up, and at four o'clock the coast was lost sight of from:

Latitude: 11 degrees 43 minutes 45 seconds. Longitude: 129 degrees 47 minutes 0 seconds.

From this, having ran four miles and a half on a North-West course, we passed over a small coral bank in thirteen fathoms; at eight o'clock, we were in forty-two fathoms sandy mud.

1818. June 1.

But between midnight and four a.m., we passed over another coral bank, on which the least water was eighteen fathoms.

June 2.

On the 2nd June, two small birds were caught; they proved to be the Java swallow (Hirundo esculenta), the nest of which is esteemed as a great delicacy, and is an article of trade between the Malays and Chinese. Large quantities of pumice-stone were also seen floating on the water; on one piece was found a sea centipede (Amphinome sp.), about four inches long, covered with fine bristly hair; it was feeding upon two barnacles (Lepas anatifera) which had attached themselves to the stone.

June 3.

This morning the high land of Timor was seen from North-North-West to North-West 1/2 West; and at sunset the highest part bore North 70 degrees West, 30 leagues off.

June 4.

At daybreak the 4th we were off the South-West point of the island, and at nine o'clock entered the Strait of Samow; but, from light winds, we did not get through it until after noon: at half past two o'clock we anchored off the Dutch settlement of Coepang, at one-third of a mile from Fort Concordia, the flag-staff of which bore South-South-East, in four fathoms and a quarter brown sand and mud.