Chapter I: Front Matter

EXPEDITION INTO CENTRAL AUSTRALIA

IN 2 VOLUMES. (both in this one eBook)

STURT, CHARLES (1795-1869)

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NARRATIVE OF AN EXPEDITION INTO CENTRAL AUSTRALIA PERFORMED UNDER THE AUTHORITY OF HER MAJESTY'S GOVERNMENT, DURING THE YEARS 1844, 5, AND 6, TOGETHER WITH A NOTICE OF THE PROVINCE OF SOUTH AUSTRALIA IN 1847.

IN 2 VOLUMES.

TO THE RIGHT HONORABLE THE EARL GREY, ETC. ETC. ETC.

MY LORD,

Although the services recorded in the following pages, which your Lordship permits me to dedicate to you, have not resulted in the discovery of any country immediately available for the purposes of colonization, I would yet venture to hope that they have not been fruitlessly undertaken, but that, as on the occasion of my voyage down the Murray River, they will be the precursors of future advantage to my country and to the Australian colonies.

Under present disappointment it must be as gratifying to those who participated in my labours, as it is to myself to know that they are not the less appreciated by your Lordship, because they were expended in a desert.

I can only assure your Lordship, that it has been my desire to give a faithful description of the country that has been explored, and of the difficulties attending the task; nor can I refuse myself the anticipation that the perusal of these volumes will excite your Lordship's interest and sympathy. I have the honour to be,

My Lord,

Your Lordship's Most obedient humble servant, CHARLES STURT.

London, November 21,1848.

NOTICE.

It might have been expected that many specimens, both of Botany and Ornithology, would have been collected during such an Expedition as that which the present narrative describes, but the contrary happened to be the case.

I am proud in having to record the name of my esteemed friend, Mr. Brown, the companion of Flinders, and the learned author of the "Prodromus Novae Hollandiae," to whose kindness I am indebted for the Botanical Remarks in the Appendix.

To my warm-hearted friend, Mr. Gould, whose splendid works are before the Public, and whose ardent pursuits in furtherance of his ambition, I have personally witnessed, I owe the more perfect form in which my ornithological notice appears.

I have likewise to acknowledge, with very sincere feelings, the assistance I have received from Mr. Arrowsmith, in the construction of my Map, to whose anxious desire to ensure correctness and professional talent I am very greatly indebted.

I hope the gentlemen whose names I have mentioned will accept my best thanks for the assistance they have afforded me in my humble labours. It is not the least of the gratifications enjoyed by those who are employed on services similar to which I have been engaged, to be brought more immediately in connection with such men.

London, November 21, 1848.

CONTENTS

VOLUME I.

CHAPTER I CHARACTER OF THE AUSTRALIAN CONTINENT--OF ITS RIVERS--
PECULIARITY OF THE DARLING--SUDDEN FLOODS TO WHICH IT IS
SUBJECT--CHARACTER OF THE MURRAY--ITS PERIODICAL RISE--BOUNTY
OF PROVIDENCE--GEOLOGICAL POSITION OF THE TWO RIVERS--
OBSERVATIONS--RESULTS--SIR THOMAS MITCHELL'S JOURNEY TO THE
DARLING--ITS JUNCTION WITH THE MURRAY--ANECDOTE OF
MR. SHANNON--CAPTAIN GREY'S EXPEDITION--CAPTAIN STURT'S
JOURNEY--MR. EYRE'S SECOND EXPEDITION--VOYAGE OF THE
BEAGLE--MR. OXLEY'S OPINIONS--STATE OF THE INTERIOR IN 1828--
CHARACTER OF ITS PLAINS AND RIVERS--JUNCTION OF THE
DARLING--FOSSIL BED OF THE MURRAY--FORMER STATE OF THE
CONTINENT--THEORY OF THE INTERIOR.

CHAPTER II PREPARATIONS FOR DEPARTURE--ARRIVAL AT MOORUNDI--NATIVE
GUIDES--NAMES OF THE PARTY--SIR JOHN BARROW'S MINUTE--REPORTS
OF LAIDLEY'S PONDS--CLIMATE OF THE MURRAY--PROGRESS UP THE
RIVER--ARRIVAL AT LAKE BONNEY--GRASSY PLAINS--CAMBOLI'S
HOME--TRAGICAL EVENTS IN THAT NEIGHBOURHOOD--PULCANTI--
ARRIVAL AT THE RUFUS--VISIT TO THE NATIVE FAMILIES--RETURN
OF MR. EYRE TO MOORUNDI--DEPARTURE OF MR. BROWNE TO
THE EASTWARD.

CHAPTER III MR. BROWNE'S RETURN--HIS ACCOUNT OF THE COUNTRY--CHANGE OF
SCENE--CONTINUED RAIN--TOONDA JOINS THE PARTY--STORY OF THE
MASSACRE--LEAVE LAKE VICTORIA--ACCIDENT TO FLOOD--TURN
NORTHWARDS--CROSS TO THE DARLING--MEET NATIVES--TOONDA'S
HAUGHTY MANNER--NADBUCK'S CUNNING--ABUNDANCE OF FEED--SUDDEN
FLOODS--BAD COUNTRY--ARRIVAL AT WILLIORARA--CONSEQUENT
DISAPPOINTMENT--PERPLEXITY--MR. POOLE GOES TO THE RANGES--
MR. BROWNE'S RETURN--FOOD OF THE NATIVES--POSITION OF
WILLIORARA.

CHAPTER IV TOONDA'S TRIBE--DISPOSITION OF THE NATIVES--ARRIVAL OF
CAMBOLI--HIS ENERGY OF CHARACTER--MR. POOLE'S RETURN--LEAVE
THE DARLING--REMARKS ON THAT RIVER--CAWNDILLA--THE OLD
BOOCOLO--LEAVE THE CAMP FOR THE HILLS--REACH A CREEK--WELLS--
TOPAR'S MISCONDUCT--ASCEND THE RANGES--RETURN HOMEWARDS--
EAVE CAWNDILLA WITH A PARTY--REACH PARNARI--MOVE TO THE
HILLS--JOURNEY TO N. WEST--HEAVY RAINS--RETURN TO CAMP--
MR. POOLE LEAVES--LEAVE THE RANGES--DESCENT TO THE PLAINS--
MR. POOLE'S RETURN--HIS REPORT--FLOOD'S CREEK--AQUATIC
BIRDS--RANGES DIMINISH IN HEIGHT.

CHAPTER V NATIVE WOMEN--SUDDEN SQUALL--JOURNEY TO THE EASTWARD--VIEW
FROM MOUNT LYELL--INCREASED TEMPERATURE--MR. POOLE'S RETURN--
HIS REPORT--LEAVE FLOOD'S CREEK--ENTANGLED IN THE PINE
FOREST--DRIVE THE CATTLE TO WATER--EXTRICATE THE PARTY--STATE
OF THE MEN--MR. POOLE AND MR. BROWNE LEAVE THE CAMP--PROCEED
NORTHWARDS--CAPT. STURT LEAVES FOR THE NORTH--RAPID
DISAPPEARANCE OF WATER--MUDDY CREEK--GEOLOGICAL FORMATION--
GYPSUM--PUSH ON TO THE RANGES--RETURN TO THE CREEK--AGAIN
ASCEND THE RANGES--FIND WATER BEYOND THEM--PROCEED TO THE
W.N.W.--RETURN TO THE RANGES--ANTS AND FLIES--TURN TO THE
EASTWARD--NO WATER--RETURN TO THE CAMP--MR. POOLE FINDS
WATER--MACK'S ADVENTURE WITH THE NATIVES--MOVE THE CAMP.

CHAPTER VI THE DEPOT--FURTHER PROGRESS CHECKED--CHARACTER OF THE
RANGES--JOURNEY TO THE NORTH-EAST--RETURN--JOURNEY TO THE
WEST--RETURN--AGAIN PROCEED TO THE NORTH--INTERVIEW WITH
NATIVES--ARRIVE AT THE FARTHEST WATER--THE PARTY SEPARATES--
PROGRESS NORTHWARDS--CONTINUE TO ADVANCE--SUFFERINGS OF THE
HORSE--CROSS THE 28TH PARALLEL--REJOIN MR. STUART--JOURNEY TO
THE WESTWARD--CHARACTER OF THE COUNTRY--FIND TWO PONDS OF
WATER--THE GRASSY PARK--RETURN TO THE RANG--EXCESSIVE HEAT--
A SINGULAR GEOLOGICAL FEATURE--REGAIN THE DEPOT.