Chapter I: Preface

On the afternoon of May 14, 1881, the good ship "City of Richmond," steamed out of New York harbor with a varied assortment of passengers on board, all intent upon seeing Europe. Among these was the writer of the pages that follow.

Six of the passengers having contracted a sort of liking for each other, made a tour of six months together, that is, together most of the time.

This book is the record of their experiences, as they appeared originally in the columns of the TOLEDO BLADE.

It is not issued in compliance with any demand for it. I have no recollection that any one of the one hundred thousand regular subscribers to the TOLEDO BLADE ever asked that the letters that appeared from week to week in its columns should be gathered into book form. The volume is a purely mercantile speculation, which may or may not be successful. The publishers held that the matter was of sufficient value to go between covers, and believing that they were good judges of such things, I edited the letters, and here they are.

The ground we went over has been gone over by other writers a thousand times. We went where other tourists have gone, and what we saw others have seen. The only difference between this book and the thousands of others that have been printed describing the same scenes, is purely the difference in the eyes of the writers who saw them. I saw the countries I visited with a pair of American eyes, and judged of men and things from a purely American stand-point.

I have not attempted to describe scenery, and buildings, and things of that nature, at all. That has been done by men and women more capable of such work than I am. Every library in America is full of books of that nature. But I was interested in the men and women of the countries I passed through, I was interested in their ways of living, their industries and their customs and habits, and I tried faithfully to put upon paper what I saw, as well as the observations and comments of the party that traveled and observed with me.

I have a hope that the readers of these pages will lay the book down in quite as good condition, mentally and physically, as when they took it up, and that some information as to European life will result from its perusal. As I make no promises at the beginning I shall have no apologies to make at the ending.

It is only justice to say that much of the descriptive matter is the work of Mr. ROBINSON LOCKE, who was with me every minute of the time, and the intelligent reader will be perfectly safe in ascribing the best of its pages to his pen.

I can only hope that this work, as a book, will meet with the same measure of favor that the material did as newspaper sketches.

D. R. L.

_Toledo, Ohio, June 29, 1882._

ILLUSTRATIONS.

No. PAGE

1. FRONTISPIECE. 2. The Departure 18 3. "Shuffle Board" 22 4. The Betting Young Man from Chicago 24 5. "Dear, Sea-sickness is only a Feminine Weakness," 27 6. Lemuel Tibbitts, from Oshkosh, Writes a Letter 29 7. Every Sin I Had Committed Came Before Me 33 8. Off for London 35 9. Public Buildings, London 36 10. The Indian Policy 39 11. The Emetic Policy 39 12. A London Street Scene 45 13. A London Steak 50 14. "And is the Them Shanghais?" 53 15. Sol. Carpenter and the Race 60 16. Leaving for the Derby 62 17. By the Roadside 64 18. English Negro Minstrelsy 66 19. The Roadside Repast 67 20. The Betting Ring 73 21. "D----n the Swindling Scoundrel" 74 22. Egyptian Room, British Museum 76 23. A Bold Briton Trying the American Custom 79 24. A London Gin Drinking Woman 80 25. The Poor Man is Sick 81 26. "That Nigger is Mine" 82 27. St. Thomas Hospital 92 28. Interior of a Variety Hall 95 29. The Magic Purse 98 30. The Man who was Music Proof 100 31. Madame Tussaud 102 32. Wax Figures of Americans 103 33. "Digging Corpses is all Wrong" 105 34. Improved Process of Burke and Hare 106 35. Isle of Wight 107 36. The London Lawyer 110 37. The Old English Way of Procuring a Loan 118 38. "Beware of Fraudulent Imitations" 120 39. The Old Temple Bar 122 40. The Sidewalk Shoe Store 125 41. "Sheap Clodink" 127 42. "Dake Dot Ring" 133 43. A Lane in Camberwell 135 44. The Tower of London 136 45. The Jewel Tower 140 46. Sir Magnus' Men 142 47. Horse Armory 144 48. St. John's Chapel 145 49. St. Thomas' Tower 146 50. General View of the Tower 147 51. The Bloody Tower 148 52. Drowning of Clarence in a Butt of Wine 149 53. The Byward Tower from the East 150 54. The Beauchamp Tower 151 55. The Overworked Headsman 152 56. The Persuasive Rack 153 57. The Byward Tower from the West 154 58. The Middle Tower 155 59. The Beef Eater 156 60. The Flint Tower 157 61. The Traitor's Gate 158 62. What Shall We Do with Sir Thomas? 159 63. The Easiest Way 160 64. The Suits Come Home 163 65. The Candle Episode 168 66. The Little Bill 169 67. Getting Ready to Leave a Hotel 169 68. The Last Straw 170 69. The Cabman Tipped 170 70. The Universal Demand 171 71. The Lord Mayor's Show 173 72. A Second Hand Debauch 175 73. The Anniversary Ceremonies 178 74. In the Harbor 179 75. Isle of Wight 182 76. The Unfinished Entries in the Diary 184 77. Westminster Abbey 186 78. Exterior of the Abbey 187 79. Entrance to the Abbey 188 80. The Poet's Corner 191 81. Henry VII.'s Chapel 193 82. Chapel of Edward 197 83. Effigy Room 200 84. The Abbey in Queen Anne's Time 201 85. "If She Ever Miscalculates She's Gone," 204 86. The Death of the Trainer 206 87. The Gorgeous Funeral Procession 207 88. Monument to the Trainer 208 89. The Side Show Zulu 210 90. The Lost Finger 212 91. On the Thames 218 92. Sandwiches at New Haven 222 93. Off Dieppe--Four A. M. 224 94. "Have You Tobacco or Spirits?" 225 95. Fisher Folk--Dieppe 227 96. Fisher Women--Dieppe 228 97. Fisher Boy and Child 229 98. The Boys of Rouen 232 99. Rouen 233 100. The Professor Stood Before it 234 101. Cathedral of Notre Dame 235 102. House of Joan d'Arc 235 103. Harbor of Rouen 236 104. St. Ouen--Rouen 238 105. The Showman in Paris 240 106. Bloss' Great Moral Spectacle 241 107. Tower of St. Pierre 242 108. Old Houses--Rouen 242 109. The Professor's Spectacles 245 110. Old Paris 246 111. Liberty, Fraternity, Equality 247 112. New Paris 248 113. The Louvre 250 114. A Boulevard Cafe 252 115. A Costume by Worth 253 116. A Magazine on the Boulevard 254 117. Mr. Thompson's Art Purchases 256 118. The American Party Outside a Cafe 259 119. The Avenue de L'Opera 261 120. Cafe Concerts 262 121. The Faro Bankeress 266 122. French Soldiers 267 123. Parisian Bread Carriers 269 124. Queer--to Frenchmen 271 125. The Porte St. Martin 272 126. A Very Polite Frenchman 275 127. "Merci, Monsieur!" 277 128. Paris Underground 279 129. Interior of the Paris Bourse 280 130. The Arc du Carrousel 282 131. "How Long Must I Endure This?" 285 132. Tail Piece 286 133. The Mother of the Gamin as She Was 288 134. The Mother of the Gamin in the Sere and Yellow Leaf 289 135. The Aged Stump Gatherer 290 136. A Talk with a Gamin 294 137. The Mabille at Night 305 138. A Mabille Divinity 306 139. Professionals in a Quadrille 309 140. A Male Dancer 310 141. The Grisette 311 142. Meeting of Tibbitts and the Professor 314 143. The Cafe Swell 316 144. Tail Piece 318 145. Beauvais Cathedral 319 146. Struggle for the Kingship 322 147. Of the Commune 326 148. Tibbitts and Faro Bankeress 330 149. Tail Piece 331 150. Palais Royal 333 151. Vision of the Commune 335 152. Mother and Bonne 337 153. The Youthful Bonne 338 154. The Aged Bonne 338 155. "Who Put that Ribbon in your Cap?" 345 156. Corrective Used by Mr. Tibbitts 348 157. The Coco Seller 349 158. In Any of the Parks 358 159. The No-Legged Beggar Woman 360 160. How the French Sport Kills Game 362 161. Fishing in the Seine 363 162. Inside a Paris Omnibus 364 163. The Showman Shown the Door 365 164. The Tell Catastrophe 368 165. Zoological Room 369 166. Cork Harbor 370 167. Queenstown 371 168. Irish Woman and Daughter 375 169. A County Cork Cabin 377 170. Interior of Better Class Cabin 378 171. Royal Irish Constabulary 379 172. Interior of Cabin 380 173. A Quiver Full 381 174. Street in an Irish Village 384 175. Blarney Castle 385 176. Free Speech in Ireland 387 177. In a Bog Village 389 178. "Drop the Child!" 391 179. Nature's Looking Glass 393 180. Irishman of the Stage and Novel 394 181. The Evicted Irishman 395 182. To Market and Back 396 183. The Real Irish Girl 397 184. A Small but Well-to-do Farmer 398 185. Sketches in Galway 402 186. Affixing Notice of Eviction 406 187. Eviction 407 188. The Eviction we Saw 408 189. Evicted 409 190. Farming in County Mayo 410 191. My Lord's Agent 413 192. Kind of a Girl My Lord Wants 414 193. The Woman who Paid the Poor Rate 416 194. Conemara Women 418 195. At Work in the Bog 420 196. Duke Leinster's Tenants 422 197. Tenant Farmer 424 198. In a Discontented District 426 199. Protecting a Gentleman Farmer 427 200. Filling the Ditch 429 201. Ready for Emigration 431 202. Old but Tolerably Cheerful 433 203. After a Wholesale Eviction 435 204. The "Faymale Painther" 436 205. Old and Not Cheerful 438 206. The Proper End of Royalty 441 207. Meath Lads at Crossakeel 443 208. A Mayo Farmer 445 209. Mayo Peasantry 447 210. Inhabitants of a Bog Village 449 211. Dublin 452 212. They Glared Ferociously 456 213. Bog Village 459 214. Interior French Car 462 215. They were Lively Children 464 216. Geneva 466 217. "Your Hotel is a Swindle, Sir" 474 218. Group of Swiss Girls 480 219. The Sweat of Other Men's Brows 481 220. The Alpine Guide 485 221. A Non-Professional Lady Tourist 487 222. Young Man with Inopportune Remarks 493 223. "Would You Oblige Me?" 495 224. "See Me Unmask this Jew" 497 225. Swiss Timber Village 501 226. The Slender Bridge 503 227. A Bit of Climbing 504 228. Where the Maiden Leaped From 511 229. The Chamois 513 230. Taking the Cattle to the Mountains 513 231. Outside the Chalet 515 232. Inside the Chalet 516 233. An Alpine Homestead 519 234. "I Should Wake Them Cheerily" 520 235. On the Road to Chamonix 525 236. The Presumed Chamois Hunter 530 237. The Fate of Two Englishmen 532 238. A Frequent Accident 533 239. The Mer De Glace 534 240. A Slip Toward the Edge 535 241. Crevasses 536 242. The Moraine 537 243. The Dilemma 538 244. Rocks Polished by Old Glaciers 539 245. The Path to the Village 548 246. Mt. Blanc and Valley of Chamonix 550 247. The Conscientious Barber 555 248. The Jungfrau 557 249. Wood Carving 559 250. Home of the Carver 560 251. Female Costumes 562 252. Our Party at the Giessbach 565 253. Peasants of East Switzerland 567 254. Near Brienz 568 255. Lion of Lucerne 570 256. End of Pontius Pilate 573 257. Lucerne Rigi-Rail 575 258. Ditto from Kanzell 576 259. Old Way of Ascending Rigi 578 260. Night Ascent of Rigi 579 261. Railway up the Rigi 581 262. Rigi Railway 582 263. Railway up the Mountain 583 264. Tell's Chapel 584 265. Tibbitts in Concert Hall 589 266. Entrance Strasburg Cathedral 593 267. Pig Market, Strasburg 596 268. The Great Hall 606 269. Tibbitts Making Plain the Point 608 270. Front of the Kursale 612 271. The Swimming Bath 614 272. The Donkey Enjoyed It 616 273. The Lichtenthal 617 274. Promenade in Baden-Baden 618 275. Charcoal Burners, Black Forest 619 276. Heidelberg Castle 623 277. Heidelberg Tun 626 278. Tibbitts and the Students 629 279. Rhine Steamer 630 280. Mannheim 631 281. Tibbitts in the Cloak Room 633 282. Mayence 639 283. Erchenheim Tower 640 284. Roemer 640 285. Luther's Home 640 284. Street on the Roemerberg 642 285. The Jews' Street 644 286. "Der Hind Leg of a Helty Mule" 649 287. Cologne Cathedral 651 288. Death of Bishop Hatto 655 289. Legend of the Cathedral 668

CONTENTS.

.....PAGE

CHAPTER I.

The Departure--How the Passengers Amused Themselves--Sea-sickness--Tibbitts, of Oshkosh--The Storm.....17-35

CHAPTER II.

London--The Englishman--A Few Statistics--The Climate--A Red-coated Romance.....18-57

CHAPTER III.

The Derby Races--Departure for the Derby--Sights and Scenes--Shows and Beggars--Betting.....58-76

CHAPTER IV.

What the Londoners Quench their Thirst with--The Kind of Liquor--Tobacco--Early Closing.....77-90

CHAPTER V.

How London is Amused--The London Theaters--An English Idea of a Good Time--Punch and Judy.....91-100

CHAPTER VI.

Madame Tussaud--American Worthies.....101-107

CHAPTER VII.

The London Lawyer--The Solicitor's Bill.....108-112

CHAPTER VIII.

English Capital--London Quacks--The London Advertiser.....113-122

CHAPTER IX.

Petticoat Lane--The Home of Second-Hand--The Clothing Dealer--Diamonds--The Confiding Israelite.....123-134

CHAPTER X.

The Tower--The Royal Jewels--The Horse Armory--Interesting Relics--The Beef-Eaters.....137-160

CHAPTER XI.

Two English Nuisances--A Badly Dressed People--An English Hotel--The English Landlord.....161-172

CHAPTER XII.

Portsmouth--Nelson's Ship--In the Harbor--Tibbitts' Diary.....174-185

CHAPTER XIII.

Westminster Abbey--Seeing the Abbey--Warren Hastings--Epitaphs--Religious Service--A Little History.....187-202

CHAPTER XIV.

The American Showman--The Trainer's Widow--Foggerty the Zulu.....203-212

CHAPTER XV.

Richmond--The Star and Garter--Down the River.....213-219

CHAPTER XVI.

From London to Paris--The Custom House--Normandy--The Cathedral--On the Way to Paris.....221-242

CHAPTER XVII.

A Scattering View of Paris--Drinking in Paris--Wine and Whisky--The National Fête.....243-267

CHAPTER XVIII.

Something About Parisians--French Cleanliness--The Polite French--The Disgust of Tibbitts.....268-286

CHAPTER XIX.

Parisian Gamin--Interview with a Gamin--A Contented Being.....287-299

CHAPTER XX.

How Paris Amuses Itself--The Grand Opera--The Wicked Mabille--Gardens other than the Mabille--Tibbitts and the Professor.....300-318

CHAPTER XXI.

The Louvre--Art in the Louvre--The Commune.....320-331

CHAPTER XXII.

The Palais-Royal--A Tale of the Commune--The Wisdom of Therese--The Two Lovers.....332-345

CHAPTER XXIII.

French Drinking--The Water of Paris--The Mild Swash.....346-351

CHAPTER XXIV.

Parisian Living--The Market Woman--Parisian Washing--Female Shop-keepers--The Career of Sam.....352-369

CHAPTER XXV.

Ireland--Cork--The Jaunting Car--Another Cabin.....370-383

CHAPTER XXVI.

Bantry--How My Lord Bantry Lives--The Real and the Ideal--Several Delusions--The Conversion of an Irish Lady.....384-401

CHAPTER XXVII.

An Irish Mass Meeting--An Eviction--Boycotting--One Landlord who was Killed--How he was killed--Patsey's Dead.....403-518

CHAPTER XXVIII.

Some Little History--The Question of Lease--A Foiled Landlord--Bantry Village--The Boatman and Nancy.....419-438

CHAPTER XXIX.

England, Ireland, Scotland--Land Troubles in England--The Royal Family--The Palace and the Workhouse--Women's Work.....439-460

CHAPTER XXX.

Paris to Geneva--A Night on the Rail--Geneva--Affecting Anecdote--Piracy on Lake Erie--The Irate Guest--Too Much Music.....461-477

CHAPTER XXXI.

Switzerland--The Rhone--A Geneva Bakery--Swiss Roads--Female Climbers--Ascent of Mont Blanc--A Useful Man at Last.....478-491

CHAPTER XXXII.

Chillon--Tibbitts and the Jew--On the Lake.....492-501

CHAPTER XXXIII.

From Geneva over the Alps--Mountain Climbing--Legend of the Gorge--Martigny--A Swiss Cottage--Alpine Ascents.....502-517

CHAPTER XXXIV.

Over the Alps--Tibbitts' Idea--Dangers of Ascending Mt. Blanc.....518-529

CHAPTER XXXV.

Going up the Mountain--The Mer de Glace--The Gorge--Something About Glaciers.....530-545

CHAPTER XXXVI.

In Switzerland--Tibbitts' Letter--Berne and Bears--Barbers.....546-555

CHAPTER XXXVII.

Lake Thun and Beyond--Interlaken--Wood Carving--Geissbach.....556-568

CHAPTER XXXVIII.

Lucerne and the Rigi--Up the Rigi--A Mountain Railway--The Rigi Kulm--Tell's Chapel.....569-587

CHAPTER XXXIX.

Zurich and Strasburg--Beer and Music--The Cathedral--The Wonderful Clock.....588-604

CHAPTER XL.

Baden-Baden--A Few Legends--Up the Mountain--To old Schloss.....605-621

CHAPTER XLI.

Heidelberg--The Great Cask--The Students.....622-630

CHAPTER XLII.

Mannheim--Opera--A Treatise on Treating.....631-639

CHAPTER XLIII.

Frankfort-on-the-Maine--Red Tape--Jews' Street--Lovely Gardens.....640-651

CHAPTER XLIV.

Down the Rhine--Bingen--Mouse Tower--Tibbitts' Romance.....652-663

CHAPTER XLV.

Cologne--The Cathedral--Eleven Thousand Virgins--Home.....664-672

TO

Charles A. B. Shepard,
_The "Poetical Bookseller,"_

_This book is dedicated (without permission)
as a
Tribute to a most Reliable Friend,
a Thorough Business Man, and
One whose steady devotion to everything right and proper,
and whose
hatred for everything mean and disreputable,
was never questioned by any one
who knew him._

NASBY IN EXILE.