Chapter II: Part I: Dress Economies (1)

The Brassiere.

The Brassiere, or bust bodice, is an essential garment for those who wish to keep the form neat in appearance now when the low cut corset is so much in vogue. It has the great advantage of correcting round shoulders in those who are inclined to stoop when walking, and prevents that ugly ridge so often seen in the back of the coat or blouse caused by the top of the corset.

They are so very easily made that every woman and girl should make as many as she requires, for they are expensive articles to buy, and the garments one makes for one’s self are likely to outlast three or four of the bought kind and this, too, at about one-third the cost.

The pattern for the Brassiere shown here is in three parts, the front, side-front and back. Half a yard of 36 inch wide linen or cambric is sufficient. The material used must be strong but fine, and linen is, of course, the best for wearing qualities.

Having cut out the sections, join all seams with a row of stitching less than a quarter of an inch from the edge, open out the seams flat and cover each with a casing made by a strip of the linen with the edge turned inwards, each should then be half an inch wide. Stitch close to the edge at each side. The three centre casings have buttonholes worked in the centre of the casing, in an upward direction, each an inch in length. These are to admit of a strip of whalebone, eight inches in length and which can readily be removed for washing.

Turn in a narrow hem at each side of the shoulder section and stitch in place. Make the insertion and place in position on the front, mark the lines at each side, cut the material along the centre where the various strips are to be, turn in a narrow hem and stitch all round. Then turn a hem all round the edge and stitch.

[Sidenote: With an Irish Crochet Insertion.]

With the crochet hook, put a row of 8 ch 1 d c into the edge of the hem from the lower edge of the back round to the opposite point and around each armhole. Into each loop put 7 ch 1 d c twice, with 5 ch 1 d c from loop to loop.

Sew a patent fastener to the top edge of the back, and a long strip of tape to the lower edge. The tapes are crossed at the back and brought round to the front to regulate the fit of the brassiere.

The Insertion.

This is the pretty Rose beading in Irish crochet, and is made with Manlove’s Irish lace thread, No. 50, with a No. 6 crochet hook.

Form 6 ch into a ring.

_1st Row._—6 ch 1 tr into the ring, 3 ch 1 tr into the ring 4 times, 3 ch 1 s c into the 3rd of the 6 ch.

_2nd Row._—1 d c 7 tr 1 d c into each loop.

_3rd Row._—5 ch 1 d c into the d c between the petals in last row.

_4th Row._—1 d c 10 tr 1 d c into each loop.

_5th Row._—Same as 3rd, but 6 ch instead of 5.

_6th Row._—1 d c 12 tr 1 d c into each loop.

_7th Row._—8 ch, picot 5 of them, 3 ch 1 d c into the 3rd tr on 1st petal in last row; 6 ch, picot 5 of them, 1 d c into the 9th tr on same petal; 6 ch, picot 5 of them, 1 d c into the 3rd tr on next petal; 6 ch, picot 5 of them, 1 d c into the 9th tr on same petal.

_8th Row._—Turn with 8 ch and repeat the 4 picot loops as in last row, for 8 rows of the 4 loops.

_16th Row._—Turn with 5 ch, 1 tr into 1st loop, 2 ch 1 tr into each of the others, turn.

_17th Row._—10 ch 1 d c into the 2nd of the 5 ch at the turning of last row.

_18th Row._—Repeat the 4 picot loops over the 10 ch and form 5 rows. Then repeat the 16th and 17th rows and form 8 rows more of the picot loops.

Make another rose and join to the picot loops in the last row to correspond with the joining of the first one.

When the front strip is of sufficient length, make the strip for each shoulder and the front piece, joining each to the loops in the straight strip.

Make the straightening rows at each side with 1 tr 2 ch into each loop and petal along the sides, placing the trs so that the chs may form a straight line.

Work a 2nd row of 2 ch 1 tr into each space of 1st row, then finish with 3 d c into each space.

Now top-sew the insertion in place and join the shoulders with a flat “run and fell” seam.

Sew a piece of tape ending with a loop on the point of the front to fasten the Brassiere to the corset.

Beautiful Crochet on Household Linen

Edited by FLORA KLICKMANN

This is full of beautiful ideas for table cloths, toilet
covers, curtain tops, sideboard cloths, tea cosies, dressing
table runners. Uniform with this volume in style and price,
and issued by the same publishers.

A Camisole Yoke of Embroidered Filet Net and Crochet.

Machine-made filet net was used in making this pretty yoke, on which the trefoil is worked in darning stitch with Tenax embroidery silk in a moss-rose shade of pink. Other lovely shades can be had in the Tenax silk, and blue, green, or mauve will answer quite as well. The shape is cut out from the net, allowing two meshes for a margin at all edges.

Using No. 70 Peri-Lusta crochet cotton, overcast the two rows of meshes left as a margin with an overcasting through each mesh, then with a No. 5 crochet hook work a row of d c all round the edges, 2 d c into each mesh.

Around the edge of the sleeve part, neck, and fronts of the yoke, work a row of 9 ch loops, 1 into every 4th d c.

Then into each loop put 7 ch 1 d c twice.

The trefoil is then worked in simple darning stitch. Have the wrong side turned towards you while doing the embroidery, as all fastenings of the thread must be made on this side.

The trefoil can readily be copied from the diagram.

A Pretty Camisole Yoke.

Use No. 70 Peri-Lusta Crochet for this pretty yoke.

Form 5 ch into a ring, into which put 8 d c, and close the row with a s c into the 1st d c, 6 ch 1 tr into next d c, 3 ch 1 tr into each d c, 3 ch 1 s c into the 3rd of the 6 ch to close a row of 8 spaces.

_3rd Row._—5 d c into each sp.

_4th Row._—7 ch, 1 long tr into the 1st ch (thread 3 times over the needle)—the 7 ch stands for a long tr—work off the loops of the long tr, two at a time, but retain the last on the needle; make another long tr through the same ch stitch, work off as before, then work off all the loops together. Make 7 ch, and repeat the 2 long tr through the 1st of the 7 ch, 1 ch, 1 d c into the d c over the next tr in the row below, repeat this long tr loop into the d c over each tr (8 loops).

_5th Row._—6 ch, bring these up behind the 1st loop and fasten with a d c on centre of the loop, 10 ch 1 d c into centre of each loop.

_6th Row._—12 d c over each 10 ch.

_7th Row._—10 ch, 6 triple tr into the d c on centre of 1st loop below, 3 ch between the trs, * 10 ch, 1 d c over the d c on centre of next loop, 10 ch 6 triple tr with 3 ch between into the d c over centre of next loop, and repeat from *.

_8th Row._—12 d c over each 10 ch, over each 3 ch put 1 d c 7 ch 1 d c.

To Join the Motifs.

Work the last row to the 3rd group of picots, form 2 of the picots as before; for the 3rd picot make only 2 ch, join to the 3rd picot on preceding motif with a d c, make 2 ch, then continue on to next picot on the motif in hands, and join the next two in the same way; 12 d c over next 10 ch, 6 ch 1 d c into the d c between the two bars on preceding motif after the joining, come back on the 6 ch with 2 ch, 1 d c over the centre of the 6 ch, 3 ch, 12 d c over next chs on the motif, then join next 3 picots as before and finish off the motif.

The extension of the front at each side is formed of a motif and the point. For the point, make the ring as in the centre of the motif, then 6 ch 1 tr into the 1st d c, 3 ch 1 tr into each of next 2 d c, turn.

_2nd Row._—9 d c into 1st loop, 5 d c into each of next two, turn, and put three of the long tr loops into the d c’s over the trs in the same manner as in the motif.

_4th Row._—Turn, 10 ch, 1 d c into top of long tr loop; put the 6 triple trs into the d c’s as before with the 3 ch between and the two 10 ch loops.

_5th Row._—Make the picots and d c’s as in the motif, joining to the 2 lower groups of triple trs as before.

There are 23 motifs in all required, 4 for each front, 5 for the back, 4 for each shoulder and the two extensions.

To Re-sole Cashmere Stockings.

Stockings re-soled according to the following directions can be worn with slippers, and will be found comfortable.

Place the stocking as shown in Fig. 1, cut off the sole at the dotted line a—b; then cut off the toe at the line c—d. As the heel of the sole piece will not lie flat it must be slit, until, when laid out, it resembles fig. 2. Cut pieces to these patterns from the leg of another stocking, allowing turnings as follows:

Fig. 1, the toe piece, ½-inch at c—d where it joins the stocking; fig. 2. ½-inch all round except at the lines a—b, c—b, where ¼-inch only must be allowed. If the stocking is short this can be remedied by leaving the extra length required at fig. 1, a, and fig. 2, d, in addition to the turnings previously mentioned.

Machine the new toe piece to the stocking at c—d (fig. 1), open and press the seam. Machine a—b to b—c, of the sole piece (fig. 2), open and press the seam. Machine this new sole to the stocking, open and press the seam. Fasten down all seams with small slip stitches.

It is advisable to use mercerised cotton or silk, and to leave the tension of the machine rather slack.

Three Pretty Aprons.

In a Christmas parcel sent to me from Italy this year, I found two of the dearest little aprons I have ever seen—much less owned.

They were so very unusual and yet so simple of make, that I feel every girl who is fond of aprons would love to have one. To these two I have added one other, equally simple, and which costs but a few pence all told.

An Easily-Slipped-on Apron.

The first one of the three is one of the Italian ones, and is made of two yards of ordinary kitchen roller towel. This particular one is made from unbleached linen, utterly free from coloured stripes or borders.

From a two yard length of towelling, cut off a strip ten inches long, which will be used for the waistband.

At one end of the long length make a three inch hem, this being the front.

Now lay this strip on the table, and measuring 39 inches from the hem, make a dot with a lead pencil, and take this dot as the centre of a circle 33 inches in circumference, which also mark out with the pencil with the help of a compass. Next cut out this circle and neatly turn in the raw edge, making a tiny hem. At the back of the apron, that is the end unhemmed, make three pleats—one box pleat in the centre and two outward turning ones on either side of the centre pleat.

Cut the ten inch strip into two 5 inch ones, and join in the middle to form a long band. Fold this neatly in the middle and point one end, letting the other end be straight.

Join to the back of the apron and stitch on firmly by machine. Put a fastening in the form of a button and button-hole, or hook and eye, or patent fastener, on each end of the belt, to complete the apron.

Slip the head through the circular opening and let the apron fall on to the shoulders, and join the waistband in the front, and there you have the simplest and quickest made apron one could possibly imagine.

The decoration on my little apron consists of a design of three conventional red roses with green leaves and stalk, separated by 5 graduated dots, the largest being in the middle. This occurs across the foot of the apron, about half an inch from the front hem, and again around the neck, but three inches from the edge of the circle. Right round the circle is a line of stitching in brown silk, then a row of green French knots, and then another line of brown, making a narrow band.

In the centre of the belt is a large button covered in linen, and a single red rose, minus the stalk, worked on it.

An Apron with Smocking.

The second apron is also Italian, but this one is more suitable for needlework or knitting, when one’s frock is apt to pick up pieces of thread or fluff from the wool. It is easily made from a piece of white alpaca, 22 inches long by 27 inches wide. A straight piece of material is used, and the edges are scalloped in three inch wide scallops. Down both sides and along the bottom there is embroidered in white silk, a design of leaves, with a centre flower worked in Richelieu openwork, and the effect of this on the alpaca is really very beautiful.

At the top the apron is narrowed by means of three groups of honeycomb or diamond smocking, terminating in points. A tiny pocket on the right hand side has also a little smocking at the base to correspond. This pocket is made from a 6 inch square of the material and is fastened to the apron by means of feather-stitching.

The band consists of a piece of alpaca, one yard long and about an inch wide. This band is stitched all around by machine.

A Pleated Work Apron.

Last of all comes the little odd apron, but I should not be at all surprised if many of you did not prefer it to either of the others.

For this, one yard of zephyr is needed in a pretty check or plaid design, and a quarter of a yard of plain zephyr to match or tone in colour. One of the many that I have made was of white zephyr, with a plaid design of pale blue and brown. To go with this I chose a plain chocolate brown, and it really looked exceedingly pretty when finished.

From the yard of check material cut a strip three inches wide along the selvedge. Then from the remaining piece, cut a strip six inches wide on the width of the material. This will leave a piece 27 inches wide and 30 long. Most zephyrs run 30 inches wide in the single width.

Lay the material flat on the table and turn down a narrow hem, where the selvedge has been cut off, also making a hem the selvedge side as well. Then take two corners of the square and join them together to form a mitre, being very careful to match the design of the material. This forms a pocket, which is useful for holding anything. Next cut the plain material into three strips of 3 inches each, and join into one long piece. Then the 6 inch piece of checked zephyr should be cut into two pieces, each measuring 3 inches wide, and also joined into one long strip.

This leaves you with one long strip of plain, one middle-sized piece of check, and one shorter strip of check.

Take the short piece of check, which measures just a yard long, and cut off a piece of plain one inch shorter. Lay the plain material on top of the check, and tack them together with a line of thread down the centre. Fold the check material over the plain to form a narrow border either side, and stitch with machine. Leave one end of this band rough, and the other end round off, continuing the little border the same as the sides.

From the 60-inch strip of check, cut off a yard length, and the same from the plain, proceeding exactly as before, only finishing off one end quite straight. This makes the shoulder straps and band of the apron, and should leave two strips of material, one check measuring 24 inches and one plain measuring 18 inches. This latter cut into two strips one-and-a-half inches wide, and join into one strip again. Turn down either side of this strip to make a band, and sew along the top edge of the pocket, slanting each end to make a pretty finish.

When this is done, take a stitch with a needle through the centre of the pocket and the apron, and this prevents it from gaping.

Take the top of the apron next and lay in twelve half inch tucks, six going one way and six the reverse, but both facing in towards the centre of the apron. Before doing this, turn down the rough edge to make a neat heading. Sew on the two straps at either end of the top. From the remaining piece of zephyr, cut a strip one-and-a-half inches wide and the length of the top of the apron bib. Turn in each side and both ends, and stitch across the bib top to cover the straps.

To finish the apron, work a buttonhole in the rounded end of one of the strings, and sew a button on the other strap. Then take an iron and pleat the whole apron from top to bottom in half-inch pleats, using the stitched pleats of the bib as a guide.

When wearing the apron the straps should go over the shoulders and cross at the back, and come round the waist and button in the centre front.

The description of this apron may sound a little difficult, but it is really simplicity itself, and very quickly made, besides being very inexpensive.

Hardanger and Cross-Stitch

Edited by FLORA KLICKMANN

This shows some handsome Hardanger patterns, also Natural
Designs in Cross-stitch for Violets, Cyclamen, Creeping
Jenny, Nasturtiums, Daisies, Roses, Fern, Daffodils, Clover,
Cherries, and Wild Birds. The book is uniform in style and
price with “Needlework Economies,” and issued by the same
publishers.

Utilizing Partly-Worn Garments.

Garments are often discarded as being of no use, just because they are worn in certain parts, whereas a little thought and careful cutting will often transform them into something quite useful. It is often possible, for instance, to make garments for the little ones by using the least worn portions of larger sized clothes. Partly worn woollen vests can be admirably re-made into babies’ pants.

To make these take the old vest and cut along the line A B, shown on the little diagram. This cuts away the most worn part of the garment. Curve out at the bottom, along the lines C D and E F.

The stitches required in the little garments are very simple. Join by seaming together the edges from D to E. Turn down a fold of about ½-inch round the curved portions, and herringbone or machine-stitch. At the top, turn down a hem of 1 inch, and stitch in the same way. Make two eyelet holes in the back of this, and insert a draw-string. A cosy little garment for baby is the result.

A Use for Old Stockings.

A delightfully warm pair of bloomers for a little girl of 5 or 6 can be made from the legs of winter stockings, the feet of which are too worn for further mending. Two pairs are needed. First cut off the legs just above the darns on the heel, then cut up the back seam and lay them open. Now lay your pattern on, and you will probably find that you can just cut the four pieces, bearing in mind that the stocking will stretch, so can be cut considerably narrower than ordinary material. When the seams are machined up (once stitching is quite sufficient), and a hem, wide enough for elastic to be run in, made at the waist and bottom of the legs, you have as comfortable and cosy a garment as you could wish for. If the legs of the stockings are hardly wide enough for your pattern, corners can easily be cut from the ankle or front of the foot, and joined on to each piece. This sounds very lumpy, but the seams can be machined quite narrow (you find they don’t fray out at all), and being of wool are perfectly soft, and will not be noticed in the wearing.

Grandma was cutting out new garments from old, and her
little grand-daughter was an interested spectator.

“Grandma,” remarked Mollie, “You do cut and contrive, don’t
you?”

“No,” said Grandma, “first I contrive, and then I cut.”

Collars for Cold Days.

Furs are a very expensive item at the best of times, and increasingly so just now. Yet some additional warmth at the throat and neck is very necessary in the cold weather. The difficulty is admirably settled in the collars here shown. Besides being warmer, they are a change from an ordinary scarf, and with a careful choice of colour, can give a very stylish finish to any coat.

A Collar with very little shaping.

This nicely fitting collar is worked in plain knitting with very little shaping, and is afterwards given a fur-like appearance by means of a Teazle Brush.

Materials required.

3 oz. Teazle Wool. Two No. 8 Celluloid Knitting Needles. A large button mould. Two or three dress-fasteners.

This Collar should be worked at a tension to produce about 6 stitches and 12 rows to the inch.

Cast on 45 stitches.

Work 8 rows in plain knitting.

* _9th Row._—K 5, turn.

_10th Row._—K 5.

_11th Row._—K 5, lift up the stitch before the next and knit it together with the next stitch (thereby preventing a hole), K 4, turn.

_12th Row._—K 10.

_13th Row._—K 10, lift up the stitch before the next and knit it together with the next stitch, K 4, turn.

_14th Row._—K 15.

Continue in this manner, knitting in 5 extra stitches every alternate row, until all the 45 stitches are on one row again *.

Knit without shaping until the shortest side measures 9 inches.

Finish at the wide edge, then repeat from * to * once.

Knit 9 rows without shaping, then repeat again from * to *.

Knit 9 inches without shaping. Repeat from * to * once more.

Knit 8 rows without shaping. Cast off.

The Button.

Cast on 3 stitches.

Knitting plain, increase once at the beginning of each row until 15 stitches are on the needle.

Knit 6 rows without shaping. Then decrease once at the beginning of each row until only 3 stitches remain. Cast off.

Raise the surface of each piece lightly with a Teazle Brush, until a fluffy effect is obtained.

[Sidenote: To Save the Cost of Fur.]

Cover the button-mould with the small round of knitting and sew it on the right front. Sew dress-fasteners in place on to each front.

If required the collar can be lined with silk or sateen.

A Pretty Sailor Collar.

This sailor shaped collar is a stylish addition to any coat, while at the same time giving the extra warmth so necessary during cold winter days. Worked in plain knitting the shaping will be found quite easy to follow.

Materials required.

3½ oz. Teazle Wool. Two No. 8 Celluloid Knitting Needles. A large button mould. Two or three dress-fasteners.

This Collar should be worked at a tension to produce about 6 stitches and 12 rows to the inch.

Commencing along the lower edge at the back of the collar, cast on 126 stitches.

Knitting plain, decrease once at the beginning and end of every 12th row until 4 stitches have been decreased at each side (leaving 118 stitches in the row).

Then increase once at the beginning and end of every 14th row until two increasings have been made at each side, making 122 stitches on the needle, and 76 rows (6½ inches) from the commencement.

The stitches now require to be divided for the neck opening as follows:—K 42, cast off 38, K 42. On the last 42 stitches, continue for the first shoulder piece as follows:—On the outside edge continue increasing once every 14th row, while at the neck edge, decreasing once every 2nd row until 6 stitches are decreased, then once every following 12th row until 3 more stitches have been decreased.

Knit back to the neck edge then, continuing to decrease once (at the neck) in every 12th row, shape for the front and shoulder as follows:—Knit to within 5 stitches of the shoulder edge, turn and knit back.

Knit to within 5 stitches from the end of the previous row (_i.e._, 10 stitches from the shoulder edge), turn and knit back.

* Knit to within 5 stitches of the end of the last row, turn and knit back. Repeat from * until only 5 stitches remain in the last short row.

In the next row the stitches require to be all knitted into one row again, but to prevent little holes from appearing at the turnings of the short rows a loop from the row below should be lifted up and knitted together with the next stitch above the turning.

Knit 8 rows without shaping. Cast off.

Join up the wool again at the neck where the 42 stitches were left, then work the second shoulder on these stitches to correspond with the first.

The Button.

Cast on 3 stitches.

Knitting plain, increase once at the beginning of each row until 15 stitches are on the needle.

Knit 6 rows without shaping. Then decrease once at the beginning of each row until only 3 stitches remain. Cast off.

Raise the surface of each piece lightly with a Teazle brush until a fluffy effect is obtained. Cover the button mould with the small round of knitting and sew it on the right front. Sew dress-fasteners in place on each front.

If required the collar can be lined with silk or sateen.

To Freshen a Last Season’s Jersey.

It is always the neck and wrist edges that show the first signs of wear on a knitted sports coat or jersey, and often a garment is discarded as done for just because these parts are shabby or out-of-date.

Have you ever thought of knitting an entirely fresh set of collar and cuffs to replace the soiled parts, or to be added to a collarless jersey or coat? The existing collar and cuffs can quite easily be cut away and the raw edges neatly buttonholed with wool before sewing on the new set.

You will probably not be successful in getting wool the exact colour of your jersey, so it will be best to use a striking contrast, such as purple on a pale blue jersey, or emerald green on a white one; or if you already have two colours in the jersey, or it is of a specially brightly-hued tint, black makes a pleasing contrast. And this year particularly contrasts of colour are very much in vogue, so that your re-modelled jersey will be quite fashionable.

Here is a practical little set that you will find quite easy to make.

The Collar.

This is of the ever-popular sailor shape that will be quite easily adapted to most garments.

“Sirdar” Sports Wool has been used for the making on No. 9 bone needles; or a 5-ply “Sirdar” Scotch Fingering would work up at a similar tension. Three ounces of wool will be sufficient for the set.

Abbreviations Used.

K = knit; P = purl; N = narrow (k two st together); st = stitch or stitches.

Commence from the back edge and cast on 78 st.

K 17 rows plain.

_18th Row._—K 8, P to 8 st from the end of the row, K 8.

_19th Row._—Knit plain.

Repeat the 18th and 19th rows twice.

_24th Row._—K 8, P 4, * K 6, P 6, repeat from * 3 times, K 6, P 4, K 8.

_25th Row_—K 12, * P 6, K 6, repeat from * 3 times, P 6, K 12.

Repeat the 24th and 25th rows once.

_28th Row._—K 8, P 10, * K 6, P 6, repeat from * twice, K 6, P 10, K 8.

_29th Row._—K 18, * P 6, K 6, repeat from * twice, P 6, K 18.

Repeat the 28th and 29th rows once.

Repeat from the 24th row once, and then from the 24th to the 27th row once. This completes the pattern.

K 24 rows a plain and a purl row [Sidenote: Other Ways of Renovating.]

alternately, always working the 8 border st plain in _every_ row.

Now to divide for the neck: K 34, and slip these st on to a safety-pin. Cast off 14 st for the centre of the neck, and on the remaining 34 st knit up the left front of the collar thus: Work 10 rows a plain and a purl row alternately, knitting the 2nd and 3rd st together of every row turned from the neck edge, and continuing the 8 plain border st.

Continue shaping in this way, decreasing also at the border side by purling the 10th and 11th st together of every 4th row turned from the border edge.

When you have worked off all but the 8 border st continue in plain knitting, decreasing from the neck edge only, until only 3 st remain.

Reverse the directions for the right side of collar.

Now pick up all the loops from the neck edge and K 6 plain rows.

The Cuffs.

Cast on 50 st.

K 13 rows plain.

_14th Row._—K 6, P to 6 st from the end of the row, K 6.

_15th Row._—Plain.

Repeat the 14th and 15th rows once.

_18th Row._—K 6, P 4, K 6, P 6, K 6, P 6, K 6, P 4, K 6.

_19th Row._—K 10, P 6, K 6, P 6, K 6, P 6, K 10.

Repeat the 18th and 19th rows once.

_22nd Row._—K 6, P 10, K 6, P 6, K 6, P 10, K 6.

_23rd Row._—K 16, P 6, K 6, P 6, K 16.

Repeat the 22nd and 23rd rows once.

Repeat from the 16th row to the 19th row once. This completes the pattern.

K 16 rows a plain and a purl row alternately, working the 6 border st plain in _every_ row.

K 6 plain rows, cast off.

For a Collarless Coat.

Another simple way of freshening the neck of a collarless jersey coat is to work a strip of plain knitting 4 inches wide and 12 inches long, and stretch it along the neck edge. Cuffs can be worked to correspond.

A pretty striped effect for this style of finish can be arrived at by using two different shades of wool, and working first four rows of one and then four rows of the other.

The Modern Knitting Book

Edited by FLORA KLICKMANN

If you are interested in knitting, this is the book you
should possess. It includes a number of directions for
garments for men and women’s wear, and some delightful
patterns for the little ones, to say nothing of the designs
in fancy knitting for household use. The volume is uniform
with this series, and issued by the same publishers.

The Use and Abuse of Gloves.

Never be tempted to throw away a pair of gloves, however old. That is, until you have decided on their utter uselessness. Because a glove has holey fingers, or a badly torn thumb, or a split palm, it does not signify that it is of no use except for house-work.

Our illustration will show what can be done with gloves that are “nearly hopeless” to most people.

To Mend a Glove worn Between the Fingers.

The first part to go is, as a rule, between the fingers. This more especially is the case with washing gloves, which have a tendency to shrink, and wash-leathers, unless splice-seamed, will _always_ do this.

As the fingers shrink, the space between splits, and it cannot be sewn up because it would make the hand too tight and the fingers too short.

To remedy this, take a reel of strong thread and a small fur needle (three-sided needle) and make a fine net-work between the two fingers.

Button-hole the edge of the split as you form the lattice. Insert your needle in the edge of the hole and make one button-hole stitch; then take your needle into the other side of the hole with another button-hole stitch. Then two button-hole stitches, and take your needle up to the top edge of the hole, near where you began.

This forms bars about 1/16-inch apart, and with two button-hole stitches in between.

This completed, turn the glove and do the same thing across from side to side, knotting the thread each time it crosses the under-threads. By this means, a tiny net-work is made.

This net-work is elastic, and will wear and wash into shape and last as long as the glove itself.

Making a Neat Patch.

Next to the fingers, the thumb is the worst problem.

I find that opening carriage doors has an unfortunate knack of splitting a glove, where the thumb joins the palm.

If there is plenty of room, this split can be neatly joined up, but the better plan is to patch it with a tiny piece of an old glove.

[Sidenote: Taking Care of Your Gloves.]

Tack the patch in, and then with fine silk the colour of the glove, button-hole around the edge of the tear, taking up the under-skin as well. This keeps it firm and neat, and the patch may be cut away underneath, just leaving a small margin for stretch.

Adding a New Thumb.

If the top of the thumb wears out, and is unpatchable, an entirely new one can be put in with very little trouble. I have an old piece of chamois leather, which I keep for this very thing, and it answers the purpose beautifully.

Cut out the torn thumb _carefully_, retaining the shape as much as possible. Split up the seam and lay it flat on the piece of leather or kid which you are using to mend the glove.

Cut around the pattern, leaving a tiny margin, as your sewing is not as fine as that done by an expert.

Then tack the new thumb into the glove around the base.

Button-hole this carefully in, and lastly button-hole the seam up the thumb and across the top. This will be found _quite_ easy.

For coloured kid gloves, I buy scraps of kid from the boot maker, and you can procure quite a nice sized piece for a small sum, large enough to cut any size thumb and to leave a good few scraps for patching.

Always remember in putting on gloves to proceed slowly, pulling on the fingers first and half the palm next, and the thumb last.

Be as careful in taking off as in putting on, and pull each finger and thumb into shape.

A Knitted Hat.

Materials Required.

For the hat illustrated a buckram shape was used with the brim slightly curled all round, and deeper at the back than the front, and having a tall crown; 1 ounce of purple wool, and 3 ounces of white 4-ply “Beehive” Scotch Fingering; five No. 14 long steel knitting-needles. The fifth needle is only required for the brim where there are too many stitches for three needles.

Hat shapes alter, of course, from time to time, but the general principles remain the same, and by a little adaptation, this can be made to suit any shape of the “sailor” class.

Directions.

Commence by casting on 2 st on each of three needles. Knit 1st row plain.

_2nd Row._—Knit twice into each st, thus—knit the st, but retain it on the left needle, twist the point of the right needle round to the back of the st and knit the other side of this st, then drop the st off the left needle. Repeat into every st.

_3rd Row, and every Alternate Row._—Knit plain.

_4th Row._—* Knit 1, knit twice into next st, repeat from *.

_6th Row._—* Knit 2, knit twice into each st, repeat from *.

_8th Row._—* Knit 3, knit twice into next st, repeat from *.

Continue in this way, increasing the number of stitches in each section by 1 st before the increase until in the 46th row, there are 24 st in each section, that is 144 st in the row.

Knit 42 rows on the 144 st.

_89th Row._—* Knit 11, knit twice into the next st, repeat from *.

_90th Row._—Knit plain and repeat these 2 rows until the number in each section is increased to 20, then knit 10 rows of the 240 st.

Use the spare needle to take off some of the stitches, putting 60 st on each of the 4 needles.

Work in ribbing of knit 1, purl 1 all round for 16 rows, then cast off the stitches on 2 of the needles, continue on the other 2 the ribbing for the wide part of the brim, casting off 4 st at the beginning and end of every row (composed of the stitches on the 2 needles), until this piece measures 1½ inches, then cast off.

It will be necessary to fit the covering to the shape to see that it fits evenly, and to add or subtract a row or two perhaps to the part for each portion of the shape, while working.

[Sidenote: Pretty and Durable.]

Stretch the covering over the shape and tack along the line between the crown and brim to the shape, turn the wrong side of the hat towards you and gather up the edge of the covering to fit the shape along the edge of the crown. Sew the knitting securely to this edge of the shape. Headline the hat and press the brim with a warm iron, placing a damp cloth under and over it; iron until the cloths are quite dry.

The Band.

This is made in the new floral knitting, and gives a nice finish to a very useful and becoming hat.

Using the same kind of white wool and 2 needles, cast on 20 st and work 30 rows, 1 plain and 1 purl row alternately, so that there is a right and a wrong side to the band.

_31st Row._—Knit 13 (using the white wool), tie on the purple wool close up to the 13th st, and knit 4 p (purple), then finish the row with white.

When using two or more colours in this class of knitting, one of the wools is stretched across the fingers of the left hand just as in crochet, and the wool for the stitch taken from this by inserting the needle under it and drawing the loop through the stitch you are knitting on the left-hand needle. Keep the different wools at opposite sides of your work, so as not to tangle them, and see that the wools on the back of the work are kept even and not pulled too tightly, otherwise the work will pucker.

_32nd Row._—Purl 7 w (white), 1 p (purple), 12 w.

_33rd Row._—Knit 11 w (always slipping the 1st st), 1 p, 8 w.

_34th Row._—Purl 9 w, 1 p, 10 w.

_35th Row._—Knit 9 w, 2 p, 9 w.

_36th Row._—Purl 10 w, 1 p, 9 w.

_37th Row._—Knit 8 w, 1 p, 11 w.

_38th Row._—Purl 12 w, 1 p, 7 w.

_39th Row._—Knit 7 w, 1 p, 12 w.

_40th Row._—Purl 12 w, 1 p, 7 w.

_41st Row._—Knit 7 w, 1 p, 12 w.

_42nd Row._—Purl 12 w, 1 p, 7 w.

_43rd Row._—Knit 7 w, 1 p, 1 w, 2 p, 9 w.

_44th Row._—Purl 8 w, 4 p, 1 w, 3 p, 4 w.

_45th Row._—Knit 4 w, 8 p, 1 w, 2 p, 5 w.

_46th Row._—Purl 4 w, 5 p, 3 w, 4 p, 4 w.

_47th Row._—Knit 6 w, 1 p, 2 w, 1 p, 2 w, 4 p, 4 w.

_48th Row._—Purl 5 w, 3 p, 1 w, 3 p, 1 w, 3 p, 4 w.

_49th Row._—Knit 3 w, 4 p, 2 w, 1 p, 2 w, 1 p, 7 w.

_50th Row._—Purl 5 w, 4 p, 3 w, 5 p, 3 w.

_51st Row._—-Knit 4 w, 2 p, 1 w, 8 p, 5 w.

_52nd Row._—Purl 4 w, 4 p, 1 w, 4 p, 3 w, 1 p, 3 w.

_53rd Row._—Knit 3 w, 3 p, 1 w, 4 p, 1 w, 3 p, 5 w.

_54th Row._—Purl 10 w, 2 p, 1 w, 3 p, 4 w.

_55th Row._—Knit 7 w, 1 p, 6 w, 3 p, 3 w.

_56th Row._—Purl 2 w, 5 p, 4 w, 1 p, 1 w, 2 p, 5 w.

_57th Row._—Knit 4 w, 4 p, 1 w. 4 p, 1 w, 3 p, 3 w.

_58th Row._—Purl 4 w, 1 p, 1 w, 4 p, 2 w, 2 p, 1 w, 1 p, 4 w.

_59th Row._—Knit 5 w, 2 p, 2 w, 8 p, 3 w.

_60th Row._—Purl 3 w, 4 p, 1 w, 2 p, 10 w.

_61st Row._—Knit 11 w, 3 p, 6 w.

_62nd Row._—Purl 6 w, 1 p, 13 w.

Knit next 22 rows all white, then repeat from the 31st row three times more, ending with 30 rows of white.

Press this band on the wrong side as in the brim, turn in each end to form an angle, and secure on the wrong side with a few stitches made with the woollen thread, press the ends flat, then place the band round the hat in the manner illustrated and sew in place.

To Wash the Hat.

The covering and band are easily removed from the shape when it becomes necessary to clean the hat.

Make a lather of warm soapy water, immerse the covering and press and squeeze through the hands, but do not rub, until it seems clean, then squeeze out all the water possible and rinse in clean warm water, again squeeze as dry as possible, and place immediately before the fire until nearly, but not quite, dry. Have the wrong side turned out. Press on the wrong side with a hot iron until quite dry, pull into shape, and replace over the buckram.

The band, or covering, if it be made with coloured wool, should have a handful of salt added to the lather and rinsing water.

Fancy Tops for Socks and Stockings.

Very pretty effects can be obtained for turnover stocking tops by working in plain knitting in two or three shades of wool. The designs illustrated are worked in grey wool, with black and white introduced just to show the contrast, and when worked in bright colours many of these would be very effective. For instance, saxe blue and a bright brown would be pretty on a grey sock, and emerald green and white on a navy sock is another combination; or the boy’s particular school colours can be introduced, giving a uniform touch to his rig-out.

These tops are not at all difficult to work, and can be added to any sock directions. They are best commenced with six or eight rows of ribbing, as this makes them set well, and when the fancy design is completed the work is turned before commencing the sock itself. Care must be taken to see that you have the correct multiple of stitches for the particular design chosen, and, if necessary, add the required number to give this after the ribbing, decreasing them to the original number again, to get the even rib before commencing the sock.

Another point that should be borne in mind is, that the wools must be allowed to run very loosely, or the design will become contracted. You can also quite easily prevent the wools becoming twisted together in the working, if in changing from one wool to another you weave the wools first over, and then under the shade previously used.

If you find you have the design contracted a little when finished, pressing with a hot iron over a damp cloth will often relieve this. In fact, all knitted garments are the better for being pressed in this way.

The directions given are for a sock for a boy of from six to seven years of age, and the leg measures 11½ inches to the base of the heel when the top is turned over; the foot measures seven inches from heel to toe.

The Sock.

Abbreviations Used.

K = knit; P = purl; N = narrow (decrease a stitch by knitting two stitches together); St = stitch or stitches.

Materials required: 4 ounces of Messrs. J. & J. Baldwin’s 4-ply grey “Beehive” Scotch Fingering, a half ounce each of white and black wool, and four No. 15 steel needles.

With grey wool cast on 64 st, 22 on each of two needles and 20 on the third needle. Work in rib of K 2, and P 2 for 8 rounds. Work one plain round, increasing your number of st to 70, then commence the fancy top, using the three wools as follows:

_10th and 11th Rounds._—4 grey (G), 3 white (W), 4 G, 3 black (B). Repeat.

_12th and 13th Rounds._—2 B, 2 W, 3 G, 2 W, 2 B, 3 G. Repeat.

_14th and 15th Rounds._—2 W, 2 B, 3 G, 2 B, 2 W, 3 G. Repeat.

_16th, 17th, 18th, and 19th Rounds._—4 G, 3 B, 4 G, 3 W. Repeat.

_20th and 21st Rounds._—2 W, 2 B, 3 G, 2 B, 2 W, 3 G. Repeat.

_22nd and 23rd Rounds._—2 B, 2 W, 3 G, 2 W, 2 B, 3 G. Repeat.

_24th and 25th Rounds._—4 G, 3 W, 4 G. 3 B. Repeat.

Work a plain round in the grey wool and decrease your stitches to 64 again.

Turn the work, and commence the sock in rib of K 3, P 1.

Work for 5½ inches, then commence shaping for the leg as follows: K 1, N, work in rib to the four last st of the round N, K 1, P 1.

Decrease in this way four times, with 7 rows between each decreasing.

Work an inch without shaping, then divide the st, putting half on to one needle for the heel, taking care that the decreasings made come in the centre of the needle.

The Heel.

Make an extra stitch, so that you have an odd number on the needle (you should then have 29 st), and knit and purl a row alternately (always slipping the first st) until you have worked the same number of rows as you have st on the needle, ending with a purl row.

K 16, N, K 1, turn.

P 5, Purl 2 together, P 1, turn.

K 6, N, K 1, turn.

P 7, Purl 2 together, P 1, turn, and continue in this manner until all the stitches have been worked on to one needle again.

Pick up 14 loops at each side of the heel, and commence working in rounds again for the foot, continuing the rib on the instep needles, but working in plain knitting for the under part of the foot.

In the first round narrow at each side, by taking the two lowest stitches picked up from the side of the heel flap together.

Repeat this decreasing three times, with 1 round between each. Continue the foot without further shaping for 3½ inches, when you will be ready for the toe.

The Toe.

Put half your st on the heel needle, and divide the remainder between the other two needles. Work the toe in plain knitting all round, decreasing at each end of the heel needle, and at the outer end of the other needles every other round, until you have only 20 st left in the round. Place these on to two needles, and cast off both needles together.

[Sidenote: For the Small Boy.]

Design No. 2.

For this pattern the number of st used must give a multiple of 8.

_1st and 2nd Rounds._—3 G, 5 B. Repeat.

_3rd and 4th Rounds._—1 B, * 1 G, 7 B. Repeat from *.

_5th and 6th Rounds._—4 G, * 3 B, 5 G. Repeat from *.

_7th and 8th Rounds._—1 G, * W, 2 G, 1 B, 1 G, 1 B, 2 G. Repeat from *.

_9th and 10th Rounds._—3 W, 5 G. Repeat.

_11th and 12th Rounds._—1 G, * 1 W, 2 G, 1 B, 1 G, 1 B, 2 G. Repeat from *.

_13th and 14th Rounds._—4 G, * 3 B, 5 G. Repeat from *.

_15th and 16th Rounds._—1 B, * 1 G, 7 B. Repeat from *.

_17th and 18th Rounds._—3 G, 5 B. Repeat.

Design No. 3.

For this pattern the number of stitches used must give a multiple of 6.

Commence the border by working 2 plain rounds in the black wool, then 2 plain rounds in the white.

_5th and 6th Rounds._—1 B, 5 W. Repeat.

_7th and 8th Rounds._—1 W, * 3 B, 3 W. Repeat from *.

_9th and 10th Rounds._—2 W, 1 B. Repeat.

_11th and 12th Rounds._—1 W, 3 B, 1 W, 1 B. Repeat.

_13th and 14th Rounds._—1 W, * 3 G, 3 W. Repeat from *.

_15th and 16th Rounds._—5 G, 1 W. Repeat.

_17th and 18th Rounds._—White.

_19th and 20th Rounds._—Black.

4th Design.

For this pattern the number of stitches used must give a multiple of 10

_1st and 2nd Rounds._—White.

_3rd and 4th Rounds._—Black.

_5th and 6th Rounds._—1 B, 1 W. Repeat.

_7th and 8th Rounds._—White.

_9th and 10th Rounds._—1 W, * 2 B, 3 W, 2 G, 3 W. Repeat from *.

_11th and 12th Rounds._—4 B, 1 W, 4 G, 1 W. Repeat.

_13th and 14th Rounds._—1 W, * 2 B, 3 W, 2 G, 3 W. Repeat from *.

_15th and 16th Rounds._—White.

_17th and 18th Rounds._—1 B, 1 W, Repeat.

_19th and 20th Rounds._—Black.

_21st and 22nd Rounds._—White.

Design No. 5.

For this pattern the number of stitches used must give a multiple of 11.

_1st and 2nd Rounds._—White.

_3rd and 4th Rounds._—Black.

_5th and 6th Rounds._—3 G, 1 W, 2 B, 2 W, 2 B, 1 W. Repeat.

[Sidenote: Effective Patterns.]

_7th and 8th Rounds._—1 W, 1 G, 1 W, 2 B, 1 W, 2 G, 1 W, 2 B. Repeat.

_9th and 10th Rounds._—1 B, * 1 W, 2 B, 1 W, 4 G, 1 W, 2 B. Repeat from *.

_11th and 12th Rounds._—3 B, 1 W, 6 G, 1 W. Repeat.

_13th and 14th Rounds._—1 B, * 1 W, 2 B, 1 W, 4 G, 1 W, 2 B. Repeat from *.

_15th and 16th Rounds._—1 W, 1 G, 1 W, 2 B, 1 W, 2 G, 1 W, 2 B. Repeat.

_17th and 18th Rounds._—3 G, 1 W, 2 B, 2 W, 2 B, 1 W. Repeat.

_19th and 20th Rounds._—Black.

_21st and 22nd Rounds._—White.

Design No. 6.

For this pattern the number of stitches used must give a multiple of 8.

_1st and 2nd Rounds._—4 B, 4 G. Repeat.

_3rd and 4th Rounds._—4 G, 4 B. Repeat.

_5th and 6th Rounds._—Black.

_7th and 8th Rounds._—3 G, 5 B. Repeat.

_9th and 10th Rounds._—2 G, * 2 W, 3 B, 3 G. Repeat from *.

_11th and 12th Rounds._—2 G, * 1 B, 3 W, 1 B, 3 G. Repeat from *.

_13th and 14th Rounds._—1 G, * 3 B, 2 W, 3 G. Repeat from *.

_15th and 16th Rounds._—4 B, * 3 G, 5 B. Repeat from *.

_17th and 18th Rounds._—Black.

_19th and 20th Rounds._—4 B, 4 G. Repeat.

_21st and 22nd Rounds._—4 G, 4 B. Repeat.

Design No. 7.