Chapter XIV: Across Navarre

It must give some flavour of unreality to our impressions of the Peninsula that we should not allude to the beggars until the ultimate chapter of all. And our only excuse for our negligence will sound like an aggravation of the error; for we hold that the Spanish beggar has been much over-advertised and does not (on his merits) deserve any more prominent place. The number of beggars in Spain varies directly in proportion to the number of tourists. They are most persistent at Búrgos; there is a moderate superfluity at Segóvia and Toledo: but in the out-of-the-way districts there is only the fundamental residue, and that (to speak frankly) we should be rather loth to spare.

"His honour the beggar, your brother"--the authorised official beggar--is a gentleman. He is frequently distinguished by a badge, like old Edie Ochiltree; and his resemblance to that worthy philosopher does not terminate with the badge. He is seldom unduly importunate. He begs "in God's name"; and when "in God's name" you implore him to excuse you, he seems to resignedly argue that such an adjuration would never be refused on insufficient grounds. His station is in the church porches; but he sometimes goes stumping the _calles_, and breathing a supplicating "_Ave Maria_" into every open door--an invocation which generally brings a very peppery blessing rattling down the staircase from the busy housewife overhead. And in fine, his entire demeanour is so eminently high-bred and dignified that it seems a privilege to oblige him. You feel as if you were conferring an obol on Belisarius, and are consequently on the best of terms with yourself for all the rest of the day.

This "Lord High Vagabond of the Stocks" is, however, not quite pushing enough for the era. In be-touristed cities he is swamped by an army of interlopers. These are perhaps most frequently children; but the tribe is bewrayed by their cry,--"_Perrita por pan![60]--Señor-e-e-to! una perr-e-e-ta!_" a capital phrase for a beggar's whine! A small initiate was squatting beside me all the time I was sketching the Casa Miranda. She was engaged in coaching the baby--these were to be his first words. The baby being unresponsive, she maintained the refrain herself, at intervals of five minutes, in an uninterested semi-detached tone. If she got the _perrita_, that would be so much profit; but she would not be depressed if she didn't--she was not so keen about the _pan_. The benevolent stranger is misled by their bare feet and rags and persistency, and imagines that they are all on the brink of starvation; but if he wants to see real poverty let him penetrate to the remoter villages--and he will find no beggars there. There more than once I have been humbled to the dust at having my "tip" politely spurned by the dignified ragamuffins who have rendered me some trifling service. And lest I should ruin their self-respect with coppers, I have been forced to undermine their constitutions with cigarettes.

The last beggars whom we encountered at Búrgos, however, were "right" beggars. They were clustering round the entrance of the great monastery of La Cartuja[61] de Miraflores, awaiting their daily dole. Everybody visits La Cartuja to see the marvellous tombs which Isabella erected for her father and brother--the masterpieces of _el mæstre_ Gil; yet not the least attractive feature are the white-robed Carthusian brethren themselves, and the ragged mendicants "coming for their soup" according to the immemorial usage of old.

The convent stands about two miles from Búrgos, on a slight eminence to the right of the Pancorvo road, and was the last of the great monuments of the city that we passed on our departure towards the east. The road had been rising almost imperceptibly all the way from Valladolid. Gradually the fields had got greener and the trees more plentiful as we left the dun plains behind; and now a fine row of big shady elms introduced a welcome variety to the everlasting poplars and half-grown acacias which had been our only solace for many a sultry mile. The country, moreover, now begins to assume a more mountainous character. Away to the right rises the desolate Sierra de la Demanda, the northern outpost of the rugged ranges round Sória,--perhaps one of the wildest districts in all western Europe at the present day. The wolf and the boar still roam at will through its untrodden valleys, though I believe the bear now only survives in the Western Cantabrians and the Pyrenees. Here the venerable monastery of Silos lay securely hidden even from the sacrilegious Moors; and here in later years the dreaded _partidas_ of Mina the _guerillero_ were able to defy the utmost efforts of the French.

Our road passes only over the merest outskirts of these mountains, and leads us on through Briviesca by a long, gradual, and monotonous descent. Yet the gates of Castile are still before us, and we do not quit that most Spanish of provinces without seeing it once more in its sternest and wildest mood. North of the road lies the long level-topped ridge of the Montes Obarenes, a range not dissimilar to our own Mendips, and, like them, cleft with an unsuspected pass. For some distance we skirt the base of the hills; and then with a sharp turn to the left we dive suddenly into the grim defile of Pancorvo, a Deva gorge in miniature, where road, river, and railway jostle each other through a maze of fantastic limestone crags.

These mountain ramparts, pierced with their deep natural posterns, are a most characteristic feature of the Castilian frontiers; and probably that "Land of Castles" owes its name as much to them as to its man-built donjons and citadels. Indeed, it requires no very vivid imagination to discover the outlines of towers and battlements among the sheer bare weather-beaten stones. One magnificent imitation overshadowed our road in the _Serranía_ of Cuenca, with keep and watch-tower and ballium as complete as a _Château Gaillard_. Another more ambiguous specimen we caught sight of in this very district;--one of those isolated conical hills crowned with a square rocky tooth, which are not uncommon in the neighbourhood of Pamplona. First it seemed that it was a rock,--then that it was a castle; and the balance of probability appeared to change every half mile. The road led straight up to our landmark and circled around the base, so that we saw it fairly close, and from three different sides; but whether it was really a rock or a castle we are not quite positive even to this day. There can be little doubt that it is to some of these _Fate Morgane_ that we owe the old proverb concerning castles in Spain.

The northern face of the Montes Obarenes is much more broken than the southern; and as we run down from the pass into the pretty little town of Miranda, we may see, far away on our right, that other great notch to the eastward where the Ebro forces its passage out into the Rioja plains. The Ebro is but young up here in the Vizcayan highlands; yet it is already a fine broad river; and the massive old stone bridge of Miranda, flanked by quaint houses and churches, makes a singularly attractive sample of Spanish scenery to the tourist newly arrived from Bayonne.

The river breaks through the mountains some ten miles lower, by a gap between two rocky headlands, known as the cliffs of Bilibio and Buradon; and beyond are the tawny undulating plains around Haro,--a famous wine-growing district, whose vintages usually reach the English market under the name of Bordeaux, though they taste just as good under their own. The view (given in the illustrations as La Rioja Alavesa) is one which is very typical of Spanish inland scenery. But a special local touch is given by the Navarrese villages bunched together at the tops of their conical hills, like so many hedgehogs with their bristles out. Navarre was a buffer state in medieval times, and anyone who had nothing else to do used to kill time by invading it. The Navarrese villages were always upon the defensive, and evidently acquired the habit of arranging themselves to suit.

Looking Northwards across the Ebro.]

Meanwhile our road to Pamplona keeps still to the northward of the mountains, and, crossing the Ebro at Miranda, makes straight for the heights of Puebla and Morillas, which answer to the Montes Obarenes on the opposite side of the vale. The little river Zadora comes rippling out to meet us; and the gap from which it issues admits us into a wide level basin some ten miles in diameter, to which the Zadora itself forms a somewhat irregular chord. The ground on the left bank of the river rises considerably higher than on the right, and culminates in a little shaggy knoll which stands close beside our road. Watch for it, and do not pass it unnoticed; it is the "Englishmen's Hill." Well has it earned that name, for it has been twice baptized in the blood of our nation. Once when a detachment of the Black Prince's army, under the command of Sir Thomas Felton, fell fighting valiantly against thirty times their number on the eve of the battle of Navarrete.[62] Again when Picton's "fighting devils" came like a storm against it in the crisis of the battle of Vitória, cutting their path through the centre of King Joseph's tottering array.

Salamanca was Wellington's most brilliant victory, but Vitória was unquestionably the ablest of his campaigns. This invasion was not like those that had gone before it--no mere sally from his impregnable mountain lines. At last he could wield an undivided command and an army as numerous as his opponents; and as he crossed the little frontier river Agueda, he had looked back to Portugal with a confident "adieu." Hill to the right and Graham to the left had already been slipped on their quarry; and against such a sweeping combination neither Tormes, Duero, nor Carrion could provide any adequate defence. Madrid was abandoned before him,--Búrgos was dismantled. And the retreating French convoys, with all their baggage, plunder, and munitions, were jammed in the city of Vitória at the head of the road to Bayonne.

Joseph sought to bar the advance at Pancorvo, and thought the defile was impregnable. He looked for assault from the southward, but the storm broke upon him from behind. Wellington had shifted his base by sea from Lisbon to Santander; and sweeping Reille and Maucune before him, came pouring down the Ebro from the north. The stroke was a _coup de Jarnac_, as fatal as it was unexpected. The heights of Obarenes and Morillas were no longer barring the way; and Joseph hastily fell back to the hills behind the Zadora, the only remaining position which he could possibly hope to defend.

As it was in the days of Las Navas de Tolosa, so was it also in this "crowning mercy" of the Peninsular War. It was a peasant who led Kempt's brigade over the unguarded bridge at Tres Pontes, and fell, like his prototype of the Morena, at the moment of the victorious attack. Clinging in desperation to each successive thicket and farmstead, the French were pushed remorselessly backward into the chaos of transport behind. And even more fatal than the frontal onset was the blow struck far to the left on the very confines of the plain. There Graham stormed the village of Gamarra Mayor, and shut off the flying army from the use of the great royal road. Nothing that ran upon wheels could go along the branch road to Pamplona. Guns, ammunition, treasure, baggage, and plunder all fell entire into the hands of the victors; and probably at the moment Joseph was very well contented that the prize was sufficiently valuable to effectually hamper the pursuit.

The battle was the ruin of Napoleon, as well as of his cause in the Peninsula. The struggle had sapped his strength for years, and the catastrophe came at the very crisis of his fate.[63] Among all his enterprises there had been none more thoroughly inexcusable;--wantonly conceived, treacherously undertaken, ruthlessly carried out. As great a blunder in statecraft as it was an outrage on humanity. "The Spanish canker destroyed him"; and so in bare justice it should.

Our route follows the track of the flying army along a deep green Navarrese valley between lofty and cliff-like hills. By its side runs the single line which connects Madrid with the frontier; but this turns off to the north about halfway to Pamplona, making for San Sebástien and Irun.

A Corner in the Town.]

The villages are much devoted to _Pelota_[64]; and few are too poor to possess some species of primitive court. Those in the larger towns are most imposing erections; but any bare wall will do, and some of the churches have hoisted pathetic petitions that the parishioners will not practise against the walls _during the hours of divine service_. The houses themselves seem almost built with a view to the pastime, for they are solid square stone buildings, shouldering close up against the roadway; and their blank expanses of ashlar are persistently commandeered by the boys.

_Pelota_ is exclusively a Basque game. In Castile and Leon the men are content with skittles, and the boys are generally engrossed in the enacting of miniature bull-fights--a game in which the star performer invariably elects to play bull. Dancing is, of course, an amusement which is common to all provinces and to both sexes: but a game in the English significance is an institution which seldom appeals to the southern mind.

In this district, however, the cyclist provides a good deal of salutary exercise for the conscientious toll-keeper. For the Basque roads are not national but provincial, and the provinces maintain them by taking tolls. The stranger, however, is not generally aware of this custom; and as the toll-bars are quite unobtrusive, he rides innocently past them on his way. His first intimation takes the shape of a breathless and howling _caminero_ sprinting desperately along the road behind him, and smarting under the conviction that he is being wilfully bilked.

Some little distance before we reach Pamplona we pass one of the most remarkable examples of rock formation that is to be met with even in Spanish hills. Here the deep glen of Larraun debouches upon the main valley, and across its mouth is drawn a huge natural wall of precipitous limestone which can hardly be less than a thousand feet high. The top is serrated, but both faces are equally sheer; and the thickness at the base is not relatively greater than one would expect in an artificial masonry dam. Probably, indeed, it was a natural dam originally, retaining a vast reservoir in the vale behind; but now it is cleft in the centre from top to base with a huge gash, clean-cut and narrow; and through this stupendous portal the little river issues from the vale.

From the Road to the Frontier.]

Pamplona stands in the centre of an amphitheatre of mountains, rising out of the level arena on a sort of daïs covered with walls and spires. It is the chief of the northern frontier fortresses; but its bastions date mostly from the days of Vauban, and its strength (from a modern military standpoint) must depend on the forts which cap the neighbouring hills. The cathedral is an interesting building, and possesses a most lovely cloister; but the town generally is not very attractive to the artist, though it forms a good "jumping-off place" for exploring the country around.

The bare, windy wastes that stretch away from the city towards the Pyrenean foot-hills are not altogether so tenantless as they seem to a casual view. Several of the villages still bear traces of ancient prosperity;--Estella, charmingly situated in a rocky hollow; Sangüesa, with its noble monastery; Olite, once the Windsor of Navarre. The last-named might almost rank as a working model for an antiquarian. Its lanes are packed with the decaying mansions of the long-departed courtiers, and dominated by the huge ruined castle which was the home of the warrior kings. This palatial stronghold is noted as one of the finest examples in the Peninsula: a match for our own Bamburgh or Warkworth, and consequently with few rivals in the world.

As the capital of Navarre, Pamplona has, of course, been pre-eminent for its sieges; and it was in one of these that Ignatius Loyola received the wound which converted him from a dandy into an ascetic, and led to the foundation of the Order of Jesuits. But the siege which possesses the greatest interest for an Englishman is that undertaken by the Duke of Wellington after Vitória; the enterprise which led to that series of desperate struggles usually lumped together vaguely as "the Battles of the Pyrenees."

The sieges of San Sebástien and Pamplona had been undertaken simultaneously; but neither made very rapid progress, and Soult was not the man to let them fall without an attempt to come to their aid. He had re-formed the wrecks of Joseph's army on the French side of the frontier; and advancing towards the passes of Maya and Roncesvalles, he assailed them both suddenly the same day. The detachments which guarded them were overpowered after a most resolute resistance, and Soult pushed down the valleys towards Pamplona, reuniting his forces on the road. Wellington had expected that the blow would be aimed at San Sebástien. He was momentarily outwitted; but he recovered just in time. Soult found his path barred at the fatal ridge of Saurauren,--just outside the Pamplona basin, and literally within sight of his goal. The beleaguered garrison heard the roar of that furious battle; they could watch the smoke-wreaths curling above the intervening ridge. But no French standards appeared in the mouth of the pass in the evening. When the battle was renewed two days later, the English were the assailants; and Soult and his beaten army could barely find safety in flight.

The Castle.]

Saurauren was Wellington's last great battle on Spanish soil. A few weeks later the two great fortresses had fallen, and--first of all the allied Generals--he carried the war into France. Five years previously he had landed in Portugal--a "Sepoy General," little more distinguished than Cornwallis or Eyre Coote. But those five years in the Peninsula had fixed his reputation for ever; and the giant who crossed the Bidassoa had but little to add to his stature on the field of Waterloo.

There is a choice of two roads from Pamplona to the frontier. The _kilos_ are reckoned from Maya; but Roncesvalles bears the more historic name. In point of scenery there is little to choose between them; but perhaps Maya is the harder journey, for Maya includes Vellate, and this extra pass is the loftiest of the three.

The country towards Roncesvalles is at first much less mountainous in character than that towards Vitória; for the high peaks of the Pyrenees lie in the centre of the range, to the eastward; and those immediately before us, though wild and rugged, do not show up very imposingly above the lofty levels upon the Spanish side. Near Pamplona the meadows are green and civilised, but the view becomes sterner and more barren as we draw near to the feet of the hills; and presently we enter a long, narrow, rocky gully--the bed of a mountain river--whose steep, bare sides are dotted with trim little bushes of box. How hot it was in that narrow gully! The sun's rays poured vertically into the breathless hollow, and their heat was radiated by every burning stone. Even the six-inch shadows of the box bushes were quoted at fancy values; and shedding our outer garments one after another, we eventually emerged at the further end in an almost aboriginal state.

"Are you thinking of resuming the garb of civilisation?" enquired one vagabond of another, as we halted for a moment on the little bridge near the village of Burguete. "I am thinking of resuming the garb of Adam," retorted his comrade desperately, as he glared into the pool beneath. It was rather a public place for a bathe; but there are no passengers on a Spanish road at _Comida_ time. And as that meal is invariably unpunctual, we knew that the little _Fonda_ could be reached in plenty of time.

Burguete stands in the centre of a little cup-like valley; and prominent upon the further lip rises a big domed hill, one of the flankers of the pass. It is a sleek, smooth mountain, upholstered with green turf, and spangled with grazing sheep; and the big round beeches and chestnuts herd together all over its crest, as domesticated as on an English lawn. Yet the little hillock beneath it was the scene of one of the greatest of tragedies; for there stood the abbey of Roncesvalles, the sepulchre of Charlemagne's slaughtered Peers.

A good deal of controversial ink has been spilt over Charlemagne's famous Spanish expedition: and all the confusion of history has been worse confounded by romance. The French Epics tell of it as a glorious and successful crusade, undertaken in the cause of Christendom against the insolence of the Moors. The Emperor dictated his own terms in his enemy's palace at Córdova, and it was only the treachery of Ganelon that led to the regrettable incident at the end. Very different is the story of the Spanish ballads. Their bards were most wofully sceptical of religious and disinterested invasion; they wished to be left to fight out their own quarrels with their own infidels, and felt no sort of satisfaction at the prospect of Spain becoming a province of the Franks. It was their own native heroes, Bernardo del Carpio and the chivalry of Leon, who overthrew the Paladins at Roncesvalles. Is not Roland's "Durandal" in the armoury of Madrid to this day, to prove that the Spaniard was the better man?

A Patio near the Cathedral.]

In truth the expedition was directed against the newly-established Caliphate of Córdova, in alliance with Suleiman Ibn-al-Arabi, the Moorish king of Barcelona, who was jealous of Abderahman's growing power. Charlemagne captured Pamplona (which was Christian), and obtained some acknowledgment of suzerainty from the Sheikhs of Gerona and Huesca. But Zaragoza held out against him with all its traditional obstinacy: the ill-matched allies could by no means pull together; and the campaign fizzled out abortively without any substantial gain. As for the dolorous rout which concluded it, that was the work of neither Goth nor Moor, but of the angry Basques of the mountains, a nation whom Charlemagne had not regarded, and whom he probably despised. They had seen their country pillaged, their capital Pamplona taken; and now, when the rearguard was entangled in the mountains, they at last got the chance of plunder and revenge. No doubt they trapped them in that long rocky defile--straggling, way-worn, and cumbered with plunder and baggage--a position as hopeless as Elphinstone's in the Koord Kabul. The disjointed line was toiling painfully along the gullet; the slippery screes rose unscalable on either side; and the jutting crags that frowned at every corner afforded both ramparts and missiles to the unweariable mountaineers. None but the doughtiest warriors could have succeeded in breaking out into the basin of Burguete. And here their superior arms and discipline would enable them to fight their way across to the further side. Only one short ascent still remained to be surmounted; but their active enemy was before them, and the task was beyond their power. Wounded and exhausted, they drew together in a rallying square upon the little hillock; and there, fighting desperately, they were cut down to a man.

The course of that fight is retold in the very conformation of the valley, yet somehow the picture is inadequate. The drama is not quite worthily staged. The place is too homely and pastoral for the scene of that great Saga which Taillefer chanted between the embattled hosts at Hastings; and which has since thrilled the hearts of generations of warriors, as Sidney's was thrilled by the tale of Chevy Chase. We need a more rugged environment for the memory of a departed demi-god. "He who aspires to be a hero," said Dr Johnson, "should drink brandy!" And perhaps, while he is about it, he might get killed in a Deva gorge.

There is a softer lay for the minstrel who would linger by the braes of Burguete; a tale of two true lovers, who, as usual, were distressingly ill-starred. Their story is even more ancient than the doughty deeds of arms that we have just been rehearsing; for it relates to the days of Charlemagne's illustrious grand-sire, Charles Martel. Othman ben Abu Neza, the Moorish warden of the marches, had espoused a Christian bride, Lampegia, daughter of Duke Eudo of Aquitaine; and fleeing with her across the mountains to seek refuge from his indignant suzerain, was overtaken in the pass of Roncesvalles, and slain in his lady's arms. The unemotional historian is convinced that the marriage was political, and hints that both Eudo and Othman were conspiring against their respective liege lords. But at least he will grant us a certificate as to the authenticity of the final catastrophe: and he flatly declines to go further even for Roland and his Peers.

Battlefields lie thick in Navarre, and even the Vale of Thorns is not absolutely the last of them. A second battle of Roncesvalles was contested upon the heights of Altobiscar, at the very crest of the Pass, in 1813. Here the British had been posted for six weeks, covering the blockade of Pamplona; and had greatly vexed the soul of their general by persistently deserting in twos and threes every night.

Why these seasoned soldiers, at this very hour of their triumph, should have been seized with so strange an epidemic, is a problem which might take a good deal of arguing. The only contemporary theory was the suggestion that they were finding things slow! But their fighting qualities did not seem to have got much affected. Soult finally attacked them in person with much superior numbers: and they offered a most resolute resistance, only giving ground after night-fall, when it was evident they were being outflanked. Cole, the hero of Albuera, led them stubbornly back along the mountain ridges towards Pamplona; and the act was played out at Saurauren, where he arrived just in time to seize the hill.

The ascent of the Pass upon the Spanish side is but trifling. A few brisk turns in the track, and we have climbed from the abbey ruins to the summit of the _col_ behind. Before us the road to France drops coil below coil into the deep green valley, a long descent of over three thousand feet. The actual frontier is some dozen miles further, at the village of Valcarlos; where a modest little bridge, shepherded by a horde of sentries, spans the waters of the infant Nive. But the spirit of Spain lags behind us up here upon this breezy saddle. Here is the true parting of the nations; and as we turn our faces plainwards, we feel that we are taking our leave.

Farewell and adieu to you, fair Spanish ladies!
Farewell and adieu to you, ladies of Spain!
For we've received orders to cross the salt waters;
_We hope before long we shall see you again_!

INDEX

PAGE

Abándames, 21, 28, 30, 39, 42

Abderahman I., Caliph of Córdova, 296

Abu Walid, Alfaqui of Toledo, 208

Alarcon, Battle of, 267

Alba de Tormes, 163, 173

Albarracin, 255

Alberche, River, 212-213

ALCÁNTARA, 230-235
Bridge, 92, 231-235
Monastery, 53, 234

Alfonso VI. of Castile and Leon, 124-125, 140, 142, 202, 208, 269

Alfonso VIII. of Castile, 60, 208, 267

Alfonso XI. of Castile and Leon, 180

Alfonso V. of Portugal, 150-151

Alfonso, Prince of Castile, 258, 281

_Alguazils_, 53, 79, 80

Al Manzor, Vizier of Córdova, 85-86
Mountain, 161, 221

Almaraz, Bridge, 92, 224

_Almoravides_, 202

Altobiscar, Mountain Ridge, 299

Alxaman, Moorish Emir, 35

Andalusia, 60, 202

Aragon, 61, 168

Aránjuez, 191, 193-195

Arapiles, 164

Arlanzon, River, 266, 268, 274

Armada, The, 95, 107, 189

Arriondas, 37-38, 42

Arroyo Molinos, Battle of, 224

Arzobispo, Bridge, 214

ASTORGA, 68-71, 75, 78, 177

Asturias, Eastern, 15-16, 24-42
Western, 93, 113-131

Augustus, Emperor, 68, 228, 246

_Autos da Fé_, 205, 261-262

ÁVILA, 176-183, 190, 192

Barcelona, 296

Basques, 289, 296

Bathers, 120

Bavieca, 270-271

Becerrea, 76-77

Beggars, 278-280

BÉJAR, 173-176, 235

Bellotas, 116

Bembibre, 75

BENAVENTE, 133-136
Battle of, 134-135

Berruguete, Alonzo, Sculptor, 207

BETÁNZOS, 106, 108-110

Bidassoa, River, 6, 293

BILBAO, 5-7, 9

Birds (Wild). Eagles, 21, 229;
Falcons, 213;
Hoopoes, 156;
Magpies, 157;
Ospreys, 22-23;
Partridges, 73;
Storks, 157, 222, 229, 232

Biscay, Bay of, 5-7, 39

Bivar, Rodrigo Diaz de. _See_ Cid.

Borgoña, Felipe de, Sculptor, 207

Borrow, George, 54, 103, 108 _note_, 115-117

Briviesca, 82, 282

Buenavista, 46, 48, 50

Bull Fights, 171-173, 208, 273, 289

BÚRGOS, 60, 257, 264-277, 280-281, 286
Castle, 275-277
Cathedral, 273-274
Monasteries, 267-268, 280-281
Palaces, 270
Siege, 275-277

Burguete, 294-295, 297-298

Cabezon, 19, 42

Cacabellos, 72, 75

CÁCERES, 81, 221-224, 229, 235

_Cafés_, 13-14, 69-70, 273

Calderon, Pedro, Dramatist, 205

Camps, Celtic and Roman, 90-91

CÁNGAS DE ONIS, 30-33, 37, 39

CANTABRIAN MOUNTAINS, 15, 19-20, 43, 66, 152, 161, 282

Cares, River, 28-29

Cardena, San Pedro de, Monastery, 271

Carillo, Archbishop of Toledo, 151, 258-259

Carlists, 54-55

Carpio, Bernardo del, 296

Carranza, Archbishop of Toledo, 262

Carreño, 29-30

Carrion, River, 51, 286

Castaños, General, 68

Castile, Kingdom, 60-61, 202, 207
Old, 7-23, 43-45, 176-185, 243-258, 266-284
New, 185-214, 237-243

Castles. Benavente, 134;
Búrgos, 275-276;
Magueda, 211;
Mérida, 225;
Olite, 291;
Ponferrada, 73;
Segóvia, 249-250;
Toledo, 205
in Spain, 282-283

Castro Gonzalo, Bridge, 135-136

Castropol, 113-114

CASTRO URDIALES, 7-10, 19

Cathedrals. Avila, 180;
Búrgos, 273-275;
Leon, 58-59;
Lugo, 79;
Orense, 92;
Oviedo, 122;
Paléncia, 264;
Pamplona, 290-291;
Plaséncia, 217;
Salamanca, 164-165;
Santiago, 86-87;
Segóvia, 253-254;
Toledo, 205-208;
Tuy, 97;
Zamora, 145-146

Catharine of Aragon, Queen of England, 182

Cervera del Pisuerga, 45

Cervantes, Miguel. _See_ Quixote, Don.

Charlemagne, Emperor, 295-298

Charles V., King of Spain and Emperor of Germany, 190, 203, 268

Charles, Prince of Wales (Charles I.), 48

Charles Martel, Mayor of the Franks, 298

Churriguera, Architect, 87

_Cicadas_, 156

CID, The. Rodrigo Diaz de Bivar, 61, 124-125, 140-143, 177, 202, 269-271

Cies, Islas de, 101

Clamores, River, 253

Clausel, General, 163, 173

Clavijo, Battle of, 85

Climate, 129, 170, 182, 266-267, 272, 294

Cole, General, 299

Colonia, Juan de, Architect, 274

Combarros, 71

COMMUNEROS, Revolt of, 203-204, 268

Constantino, Bridge, 76

Corcuvion, 103

Córdova, 85, 201, 295-296

Cória, 235

_Corpus Christi_, Festival of, 139, 143-146

Cortes, Hernando, 223

CORUÑA, 64, 89, 104-105, 108, 110
Battle of, 92, 106-108, 111

Costume, 49, 62-63, 65, 71, 109-110, 157-158, 175-176

Courtship, 226-228

COVADONGA, 25, 33-37
Battle of, 24-25, 34-37
Nuestra Señora de, 24-25, 34, 37

Craufurd, General, 214

_Cubos_, 22, 58

CUDILLERO, 118-121

Cuenca, 255, 283

CUERA, Sierra de, 30, 38-39

Cuesta, Captain General, 213

Cueva, Don Beltran de la, 259

Cuidad Rodrigo, 162-163, 175

Dancing, 40, 48, 108-109, 289

De Arfe, Metal worker, 207

DEVA, River, 20-21, 28, 42
Gorge, 22-23, 25-28, 42, 43, 298

Dogs, 17-19, 216, 260

Dorothea. _See_ Quixote, Don.

Douro, Battle of the, 93, 214

Drake, Sir Francis, 107

Dubreton, General, 275

DUEÑAS, 263-264

DUERO, River, 94, 141, 149, 259-260
Valley, 137, 152-153, 176, 182, 211, 220, 257

Dulcinea del Toboso. _See_ Quixote, Don.

Ebro, River, 284-285, 287

Edward, Prince of England (Edward I.), 267
"The Black Prince", 285

El Burgo, Bridge, 107

Eleanor of Castile, Queen of England, 267-268

Electric Lighting, 109, 147

El Padron, 64, 103

Elviña, 106

Elvira, Princess, 140

Encina, Nuestra Señora de la, 73-74

Eresma, River, 243-245, 248

ESCLAVITUD, Nuestra Señora de la, 103

ESCORIAL, 186-190, 240-242, 261

Esla, River, 57, 131, 132-135, 263

Estella, 291

Estremadura, 175, 215-236

Eudo, Duke of Aquitaine, 298

EUROPA, Picos de, 20-21, 27-29, 30, 33, 161

Felton, Sir Thomas, 285

Ferdinand I. of Leon and Castile, 60-61, 140
III. of Castile and Leon, 60, 202, 206
of Aragon (The Catholic), 110, 150, 263-264
and Isabella of Castile, "The Catholic Kings", 150,
166, 181-182, 203, 263-264

Ferrol, 108, 111

Finistierra, Cape, 101

Fishing Ports, 9-10, 19-20, 40-41, 100-101, 118-119
Rivers, 38

Fishwives, 98, 101, 119

Flies, 31, 102

Florinda (La Cava), 201

Flowers (Wild). Broom, 224, 242;
Cactus, 221;
Cistus, 153, 224;
Hardhead, 183, 242;
Heather, 73, 102;
Poppy, 266

Fountains, 79-81, 108, 186, 222, 239

Foz, 112

Francia, Peña de, 175

Galicia, 15, 24, 62, 76-112, 140

Gamarra Mayor, 287

Ganelon, 295

Garlic, 13, 180

Gata, Sierra de, 175

Gelmirez, Archbishop of Santiago, 84, 86

Gerona, 111, 296

_Gigantes_, 139, 143-145

Gijon, 20, 35-36

GIL BLAS de Santillana. Birth-place, 19;
Captain Rolando, 72;
Dr Sangrado, 259-261;
Flight from Valladolid, 259-260;
Don Bernardo de Castel Blazo, 53;
at Salamanca, 166;
Imprisonment, 254-255;
at Toledo, 205;
Visit to Olivares, 149;
Liria, 254 _note_

Girard, General, 224

Gonzalez, Count Fernando, 61, 269

Gonzalo, Don Arias, 141-142

Graham, General, 286-287

GRÉDOS, Sierra de, 161, 170, 173-174, 182, 211, 215, 221, 235

Grenada, 255, 265

Guadalete, Battle of the, 200

Guadalupe, Monastery, 223, 235
Sierra de, 211

GUADARRAMA, Sierra de, 18, 155, 176, 182, 238, 256
Puerto de, 184-185, 242-243

Guadiana, River, 223, 225, 229

_Guardia Civil_, 53-54, 183, 245

_Guerrilleros_, 93-94, 111, 282

Haro, 284

Henrique IV. of Castile, 177, 250, 258

Hercules (at Toledo), 199-201

Hieronymo, Bishop of Zamora, 139

Hill, General, 224, 286

Howell, James, 48, 95, 206 _note_

Huesca, 296

Illescas, 193

Inns, 8-9, 25-27, 29, 46-48, 50, 69, 138-139, 184, 217-219, 226-227, 264-265

Inquisition, 250-252, 261-263

Isabella of Castile (The Catholic), 250, 252, 281.
_See also_ Ferdinand.
Princess, 181

Isidoro, San, 59-61, 208-209

Jackson, Private, 136

Jarama, River, 194

Jerte, River, 216

Jews, 200, 203, 261, 270

Joseph Buonaparte, 162-163, 277, 286-288

Jourdan, Marshal, 213

Juan II. of Castile, 258, 281
Prince of Spain, 181

Juana, Queen of Spain, 182, 265

Junot, Marshal, 68

La Cañiza, 95-97

Lacer, Caius Julius, Engineer, 231-232

La Demanda, Sierra de, 152, 281-282

La Granja, 244, 254

LA HERMIDA, 23

La Mancha, 95

Lampegia, 298

Lapisse, General, 235

Laredo, 10-11, 15

La Robla, 130

Las Huelgas, Convent, 267-268

Las Rozas, 238

Lefebre Desnouettes, General, 135

Lena, 127-128

LEON Province (Old Kingdom), 43, 45-76, 89, 102, 128-176, 258-266, 296
City, 36, 45, 50, 57-65, 66 _note_, 68, 81, 131
Cathedral, 58-59
Church of San Isidoro, 59-61

Leovigild, King of the Goths, 200

Le Sage, 255.
_See also_ Gil Blas.

Liebana, Vale of, 23, 42-44, 152

LLANES, 40-41

Lobsters, 8-10, 19-20

Lope de Vega, Dramatist, 205

Loyola, Ignatius, 178-179, 291

Luarca, 118

LUGO 68, 75-82, 89-90, 106, 177

Luna, Don Alvaro de, 207, 258

Madrid, 190-193, 215, 238, 240

Mansilla de las Mulas, 57

_Mantillas_, 273

Manzanal, Puerto de, 70-71, 75

Manzanares, River, 215, 237-238

_Maragatos_, 65, 70-71

Marbot, General, 185

Maritornes. _See_ Quixote, Don.

Marmont, Marshal, 149-150, 161-163, 165-166, 214

Martorell, Bridge, 92

MASMA, River, 112

Maucune, General, 163, 287

Maurice, Archbishop of Búrgos, 274

Maya, Puerto de, 292-293

Mayorga, 57

Meals, 8-9, 11-13, 41, 119, 138, 218

Medellin, Hill of, 213

Medina del Campo, 117, 258

_Membrillo_, 12, 181

Mendo, River, 108

Mendoza, Cardinal, 151, 207

MÉRIDA, 225-229, 232

Mero, River, 106

Mexico, 20, 223

Miéres, 126-127

Military Orders, 53, 66, 73, 234

Mina, General, 282

MIÑO, River, 6, 78, 89-97

Miraflores, La Cartuja de, 273, 280-281

MIRANDA DEL EBRO, 283-285
Casa de, 271, 280

Mondoñedo, 111

Money, 219, 279 _note_

Monforte, 90

Montamarta, 137-139

Montanchez, Sierra de, 223

MOORE, Sir John, at Salamanca, 182 _note_;
at Sahagun, 54-55;
assailed by Napoleon, 184-185;
Benavente, 134-136;
Retreat across the Vierzo, 74-75;
Pass of Piedrafita, 76;
Lugo, 89;
March to Coruña, 105-106;
Battle of Coruña, 106-107

Moors. Conquest of Spain, 200, 282;
repulsed from Asturias, 34-37;
Caliphate of Córdova, 201, 296;
Charlemagne's Invasion, 295-296;
Clavijo, 85;
Al Manzor, 85-86;
Sieges of Zamora, 140;
Reconquest of Toledo, 202;
The Cid, 269-270;
Fresh irruption, 202;
Battle of Alarcon, 267;
Battle of las Navas de Tolosa, 60, 267;
Reconquest of Andalusia, 60, 202;
Persecuted, 261

Morena, Sierra, 46, 61, 208

Morillas Mountains, 285

_Mozarabes_, 208-210

_Mudejares_, 204 _note_, 208 _note_

Mules, 42, 65, 104, 158-160

Munuza, Emir, 36

Muros, 117, 121

Nalon, River, 121

Napoleon Buonaparte. Pursuit of Sir John Moore, 55, 184-185, 135, 75
Spanish War, 165, 288

Narcea, River, 121

Navacerrada, Puerto de, 242-244

Navarre, 61, 284-300

Navarrete, Battle of, 285

Navas de Tolosa, Battle of, 60-61, 208, 267, 287

NÁVIA, River, 76, 116

Nervion, River, 5

Ney, Marshal, 93

Nive, River, 300

Nogales, 76

Norreys, Sir John, 107-108

Obarenes, Montes, 282-285

Olivares, Conde Duque de, 148-149

OLITE, 291

Olmedo, 258-259

Orbigo, River, 66-67, 134

Ordoñez, Don Diego, 142

ORENSE, Bridge, 32, 92
City, 89, 91-92

Othman ben Abu Neza, Emir, 298

OVIEDO, 121-127
Cathedral, 122

Oxen, 15-17, 30-31, 44-45, 103, 105, 159

Pacheco, Doña Maria, 203

Paget, General, 76, 135

PAJARES, Puerto de, 36, 58, 80, 126-130

Palaces. Búrgos, 271;
Cáceres, 222-223;
Leon, 62;
Olite, 291;
Oviedo, 122;
Plaséncia, 216-217;
Salamanca, 167-169;
Santiago, 87;
Segóvia, 247;
Toledo, 204;
Toro, 148

Palávia, 106

Paléncia, 264-265

PAMPLONA, 60, 81, 283, 290-294, 296
Siege, 291-293, 298

PANCORVO, Defile, 281-282, 286

Pantoja, Painter, 189

Paredes, Don Diego Garcia de, 32, 223

Peasantry, 26-27, 31, 40, 48-50, 62, 65, 79, 99, 109-110,
120, 138, 147-148, 175-176, 197-198, 216, 280, 287

Pedro, the Cruel, of Castile, 86, 180
_El Maestre._ _See_ Quixote, Don.

Pelayo, King of Asturias, 24, 31-32, 34-37

_Pelota_, 288-289

_Peones Camineros_, 243, 256

Philip II. of Spain, 67, 188-190, 194, 261-262, 273
IV. of Spain, 148, 244

Phoenicians, 199-200

Picton, General, 151, 285-286

Piedrafita, Puerto de, 75-76, 89

Pigs, 212, 229-230

Pilar, Nuestra Señora del, 179

Pilgrimages, 24-25, 64-65, 82-84

Pilona, River, 38

Pisuerga, River, 263, 265

Pizarro, 223

PLASÉNCIA, 81, 214, 216-219

Ploughs, 105

Poblet, Monastery, 187

Pola de Gordon, 129-130

Ponferrada, 72-75

Pontevedra, 81

Porcelos, Diego de, 269

Portugal, 92-93, 97, 150, 181, 286

Portugalete, 5, 9

Potes, 26, 42, 43

Právia, 117, 121

Pyrenees, Mountains, 282, 293-300
Battles of the, 292-293, 299

Quevedo, Francisco, Satirist, 149

Quinones, Don Suero, 66-67

QUIXOTE, Don. Tales of Chivalry, 2-3, 32, 66-67, 142, 161;
Ideal Knight Errant, 154;
Company at the Inn, 46;
Innkeeper, 247;
Dorothea, 244;
Dulcinea del Toboso, 65, 100, 184;
Sancho Panza, 8, 49, 83, 95, 181;
Maritornes, 9;
The Cortes of Death, 143;
Don Diego Miranda, 271;
_El Maestre_ Pedro, 211;
Roque Guinart, 157

Rañadoiro, Sierra de, 116

Reille, General, 287

Religious Observances, 120-121, 143-146, 273

Reptiles, Frogs, 46, 156
Lizards, 156
Snakes, 229-230, 257

Ribadávia, 95-96, 183

RIOJA, The, 29, 284

RIVADEO, 80, 112-116

Rivadesella, 39-40

Rock Formations, 22-23, 28, 129-130, 282-283, 290

Roderic, King of the Visigoths, 24, 200-201

Roland, 296-298

Roman Remains. Aqueducts, 225, 228-229, 246
Bridges, 76, 225, 231-232
Camps, 90
Theatres, 225
Walls, 58, 68, 78, 164, 225

Roncesvalles. Puerto de, 292-300
Battles of, 292, 295-299

Ronda, Well of, 99

Rooke, Admiral, 100

Roque Guinart. _See_ Quixote, Don.

Sahagun, 32, 54-56, 235

SALAMANCA 146-147, 149, 163-171, 176
Cathedrals, 164-165, 254
Colleges and Palaces, 165-169
Battle of, 150, 161-164, 214, 277, 286

Saldaña, 51, 55

Sanchez, Julian, 262

Sancho II. of Castile, 124-125, 140-142
Panza. _See_ Quixote, Don.

Sangüesa, Monastery, 291

San Rafael, Fonda, 184

San Roman, 261

San Sebástien, 6, 288, 292

Santander, 15, 20, 81, 287

SANTIAGO (St James the Greater), 64, 83-86, 177
de Compostela, 64, 82-89, 104
Cathedral, 82, 84, 86-87, 103

Santillana, 19

SANTOÑA, 10-11

SAN VICENTE DE LA BARQUERA, 19-20, 41

Sardines, 9-10, 101, 119

Sauráuren, Battle of, 292-293, 299

SEGÓVIA, 182, 192, 216, 229, 244-257
Alcázar, 248-250
Aqueduct, 246-247
Cathedral, 253-254

SELLA, River, 32, 37-39

_Serenos_, 123-124

Seso, Don Carlos de, 189, 261

Seville, 201, 206

Shepherds, 137, 208, 221, 239

Siete Picos, Mountain, 242-243, 248

Sil, River, 72-73, 91

Silöe, Diego de, Sculptor, 275
Gil de, Sculptor, 281

Silos, San Domingo de, Monastery, 282

Simancas, 260

Somers Cocks, Major, 276

Sontres, 26

Sória, 281

SOULT, Marshal. Pursuit of Sir John Moore, 55, 75-76, 89;
at Coruña, 106;
Conquest of Galicia, 92-94, 111;
Repulsed from the Douro, 93;
Advance upon Talavera, 93-94, 214;
Battles of the Pyrenees, 292-293, 299

Stage Coaches, 41-42, 104

Street, G. E., Architect, 59, 205

Suero, Archbishop of Santiago, 86

Suleiman Ibn-al-Arabi, Emir, 296

TAGUS, River, 195, 197-199, 201, 212, 214, 220, 230-232
Valley, 93, 185, 210-211, 219-220, 230-231

TALAVERA DE LA REINA, 182, 210-214
Battle of, 210-214, 235

Tarik, 71, 200

Theresa de Ávila, Sta, 177-179

Tierra de Campos, 137, 263

Tina Mayor, River. _See_ Deva, River.

TOLEDO, 98, 105, 151, 192-193, 197-210, 240, 269
Bridges, 92, 199
Cathedral, 122, 205-210, 274

Toledo, Montes de, 185, 198
Don Francisco de, 95

Toriñana, Cape, 101

Tormes, River, 161-163
Lazarillo de, 205

TORO 140, 147-151, 153
Battle of, 150-151

Torquemada, 265-266
Tomas de, Inquisitor, 179, 203, 250-251

Torrelavega, 15, 19

Torrelodones, 239-240

Trajan, Emperor, 226, 231, 246

Trees. Acacia, 132, 281;
Box, 294;
Beech, 44, 295;
Chestnut, 44, 295;
Elm, 194-195, 281;
Ilex, 153, 215-216, 219;
Olive, 173, 194, 221;
Palm, 102;
Pine, 184, 242-244, 257;
Poplar, 57, 65, 133, 281

Tresviso, 26-27

Troglodyte villages, 132-133, 263

Trujillo, 223, 235

TUY, 92-93, 96-98

Ubiña, Peña, 128

Unquera, 20-21, 39, 42

URDON, 25-27

Urraca, Princess, 140-143

Valcarce, 75

Valcarlos, 300

Valdepeñas, 95

Valdeprado, 44

Valdez, Inquisitor, 263

Valéncia del Cid, 60, 154, 202, 270
do Minho (Portugal) 97

VALLADOLID, 97, 141, 207, 259-264, 281

Velasquez, Painter, 134, 138, 149

Vellate, Puerto de, 293

Vellido Dolphos, 141-142

Verney, Sir Edmund, 48

Victor, Marshal, 213

VIERZO, The, 72-75, 91, 152

VIGO, 80, 97-101
Bay, Battle of, 100

Vilano, Cape, 101

Villacastin, 182-183

Villafranca, 75, 81

Villalba, 242

Villalpando, Francisco de, Metal Worker, 207

Vineyards, 94, 153, 220

Visigoths, 105, 122, 200

VITÓRIA, Battle of, 151, 277, 286-288, 292

Vizcaya, 5-7, 24

Walton, Private, 136

Wamba, King of the Visigoths, 105, 199-200

Water pitchers, 13, 80-82, 222

WELLINGTON, Duke of. Campaign of the Douro, 93;
Campaign of Talavera, 93, 212-214;
at Salamanca, 165-166, 170;
Battle of Salamanca, 161-164;
Criticises Siege of Astorga, 68;
Siege of Búrgos, 275-277;
Retreat from Búrgos, 266;
Generalissimo of Spanish armies, 179;
Campaign and Battle of Vitória, 277, 286-288;
Battles of the Pyrenees, 292-293;
Allusions to Spanish character, 49, 125-126

Wines, 12-13, 94-96, 266, 284

Ximena, 270-271

Ximenes, Cardinal, 179, 210

Yakub aben Yussef of Morocco, 267

Yuste, 190

Zadora, River, 285, 287

ZAMORA, 136-137, 139-147, 150
Cathedral, 139-140, 145-146

Zaragoza, 253
Sieges of, 111, 179, 296

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FOOTNOTES:

[1] "Infernal _anis_," says the advertisement, "made from the worst wines of the Priorato, is neither tonic, digestive, nor restorative, and has never been commended at any exhibition."

[2] Literally "Tubs", the solid semicircular bastions of Spanish town walls.

[3] A collegiate church, intermediate in dignity between a parish church and a cathedral.

[4] A public promenade, thickly planted with trees.

[5] A Spanish league is about an hour's march, say 3-3/4 miles.

[6] At one place it consisted of a huge earthenware bowl, 3 feet high and 4 feet in diameter, filled up solid with earth to within 4 inches of the rim.

[7] Here died ----.

[8] See p. 140.

[9] See p. 140.

[10] This monastery is a very notable Leonese monument, a masterpiece of _Plateresque_, somewhat similar to the _Otto Heinrichs Bau_ at Heidelberg, and formerly the property of the knights of Santiago.

[11] Astorga = _Ast_urica _Aug_usta.

[12] Literally the "House of Purification," _i.e._ the Great Mosque of Córdova.

[13] There is something of the same flavour about the inscription on the Gates of the _Hospital del Rey_ at Burgos; "Blessed is the man that provideth for the sick and needy, St James (!) shall deliver him in the time of trouble."

[14] The fate most dreaded by the Spanish prisoners in the Moorish wars.

[15] Borrow stigmatises Betánzos as a filthy and evil-smelling pest-house. But then his horse broke down there. So much depends upon the point of view!

[16] See page 142.

[17] /p "Who would not give a foot of ground For all the Devils in Hell."--_Ballad of Lord Willoughby._ p/

[18] A cant term for knifing. The Neapolitan had a standing feud with Spain.

[19] The proverb is still quite current. A carrier of whom we inquired the distance to Zamora oracularly answered that "It could never be gained in an hour."

[20] See p. 60.

[21] The recognised Spanish title for the Host.

[22] Presbytery.

[23] "Here's to the glorious, pious and immortal memory of the great and good King William, who delivered us from Popery, brass money, _and wooden shoes_!"

[24] _Arriero_, from _arré_! gee-up!

[25] As in Italian, the diminutive is a sort of endearing form of superlative.

[26] They were built at the end of the eleventh century. A singularly fine bit of work for so early a date.

[27] Moore was at Salamanca and his artillery at Talavera when Napoleon reached Madrid.

[28] The burial-place of the Kings of Aragon.

[29] See p. 261.

[30] Such is the meaning of the word, but I would not like to vouch for the etymology. The derivation is possibly the other way.

[31] The tiny mosque of _San Cristo de la Luz_ is the only genuine Moorish fragment. The _Puerta del Sol_, the church of _Sta Maria la Blanca_, etc., are _Mudéjar_ work. Cp. note on p. 208.

[32] _I.e._ "Citadel," _Cæsareum_.

[33] James Howell in 1620 estimates the annual income of Toledo at £100,000, a sum equivalent to nearly half a million to-day.

[34] Metal screens and reliquaries.

[35] He has only a statue at Toledo; but his actual grave has a scarcely less honourable site in _las Huelgas_ at Búrgos.

[36] The _Mozárabes_ were Christians under the dominion of the Moors, as _Mudéjares_ were Moors under the dominion of the Christians.

[37] Several such herds were seized by the hungry regiments in the course of the retreat.

[38] Heywood, _Fair Maid of the West_.

[39] The country people invariably reckon in _reals_--the old coinage. The piece is no longer struck, but its value is one-fourth of a _peseta_.

[40] Some call it eighty-one. But this includes some arches of construction in the spandrils, and is not fair counting.

[41] Cp. p. 55.

[42] The province derives its name from the conquests "beyond the Duero" won in the earlier stages of the struggle with the Moors.

[43] _Noche Toledana_ is proverbial in Spanish as equivalent to a sleepless night.

[44] The _Octroi_ office, to receive the city tolls.

[45] Trajan was a Spaniard born, and his reign an extremely prosperous period for Spain.

[46] "The Vineyard," a lovely dismantled monastery planted beside the Eresma, just underneath the town.

[47] Montaigne.

[48] _E.g._ Talavera, first Archbishop of Grenada, and Peter Martyr, the Confessor and Biographer of Isabella.

[49] The beautiful _Huerta_ of Liria is the only district actually praised.

[50] Cp. p. 207.

[51] Cp. p. 151.

[52] The place of execution at Seville.

[53] Cp. p. 132.

[54] The ambiguity would not be apparent to a Spaniard. To him _Invierno_, "Winter," is the assonym to _Infierno_, "Hell."

[55] The "Silversmith style," or early Spanish Renaissance. So called from the Cellini-like carving which is its leading characteristic.

[56] The Emperor of Morocco; at this time the martial Yakub aben Yussef.

[57] Cp. note on p. 265.

[58] See p. 281.

[59] See p. 161.

[60] "A ha'penny for bread." The _perrita_ or "little dog" = a halfpenny, and the _perro gordo_ or fat dog = a penny. Thus "Two reals minus a little dog" is 45 _centimos_. The animal irrelevantly called a "dog" is the lion on the reverse of the coin.

[61] _Certosa._ Charterhouse.

[62] This incident has been utilised by Conan Doyle in his _White Company_. But that story rather exaggerates the height and steepness of the hill.

[63] During the sitting of the Congress of Dresden.

[64] A highly developed form of Fives.