Chapter I: Preface: To the Second Edition

Two great faults have been found with my first edition. The first was, that I had offended many people by personal allusions. To this, I reply, that offence was very far from my mind; and to those offended (if any there be), I say, consider the expressions unsaid. For the rest, they are omitted in this edition. The second alleged defect is, that, while I call my book, to a certain extent, sporting, so little allusion is made to sport. I grant there is some reason in this, and accordingly I have added matter which I think will be useful to future sporting tourists. I would, however, not advise the man who seeks sport alone and solely to go to Algeria, as I am sure he will be disappointed, as I most decidedly was. With regard to the illustrations, I have taken the greatest pains that they may faithfully represent, not only the particular localities alluded to, but also give a fair idea of the country and climate of these latitudes.

W. G. WINDHAM.

_Hull, April, 1861._

ILLUSTRATIONS.

TO FACE PAGE

FRONTISPIECE: MY TWO SERVANTS--ANGELO AND NERO 1

SHOOTING HYENAS ON THE PURPLE MOUNTAINS NEAR EL
GREESHE 20

SHOOTING WILD DUCKS NEAR AIN MOKRA, PROVINCE OF
CONSTANTINE, ALGERIA 44

HOG-SHOOTING ON THE BANKS OF THE OUED EL AHWENA,
IN TUNISIA 60

CONTENTS.

CHAPTER I.

THE VOYAGE OUT:--Paris in 1860--Notre Dame--Our Hotel--Nero and the Groom--The Steamer for Algeria--Gallic Peculiarities--Life on Board 7

CHAPTER II.

DESCRIPTION OF ALGIERS:--Arrival in Algeria--Murray's Guide-books, and their Amenities--Disembarkation in the Port of Algiers--Our Fellow-travellers--Algiers and its Inhabitants--The Dey's Palace--Cause of the French Invasion 13

CHAPTER III.

LIFE IN ALGIERS:--Algerian Society--A Soiree at General Martinprez's--The Sirocco--My Maltese Companion--The Theatre--General Youssouf and his Career 19

CHAPTER IV.

"UP THE COUNTRY:"--Departure from Algiers--Blidah--The Zouave Officers and their Companions--Government Establishment of Horses--Joseph, the Horse-dealer--To Arbah--The Caravanserai--Journey towards Oued-el-Massin 25

CHAPTER V.

FURTHER EXPERIENCES:--Abd-el-Kader (but not the Emir)--Difficult Road--Perils of the Way--Prospect of Sport--The First Boar--The Chasseurs d'Afrique--Mine Hostess of the "Scorpion"--Teniet 30

CHAPTER VI.

FURTHER PROGRESS--RELIGIOUS CEREMONIES:--Cold Weather--Milianah--Vezoul--The Aubergiste--El Afroun--The Rhamazan--Dancing Dervishes 36

CHAPTER VII.

BONA AND ITS VICINITY:--Passage to Bona--State of Affairs on Board--Bona--The Lake Metitza--Ain Mokra--Wild Duck Shooting on the Lake 41

CHAPTER VIII.

ON TO TUNIS:--Algeria in General--The Arabs and their Conquerors--Antagonism between the Two Races--Social Condition of the Arabs--The _Oasis_ Steamer--Arrival at Tunis 46

CHAPTER IX.

MARSA:--Angelo's Horsemanship--The Bey's Palace at Marsa--The Arabs and their Love of Tobacco--The Friendly Moor at Camatte 52

CHAPTER X.

ABOUT BOAR SHOOTING:--Sleeman--the Oued el Ahwena--Its Scenery, and its Dangers--Beauty of the Landscape on its Banks 55

CHAPTER XI.

SPORTING EXPERIENCES:--El Greesh--Shooting Hyenas--An Expedition with the Arabs--The Caid and his Family--Another Wild Boar 59

CHAPTER XII.

TUNIS AND ITS GOVERNMENT:--Picturesque Situation of Tunis--The Horse Market--Effects of Race--The Bazaars--Mohamed Medea--The Bardo--The Bey of Tunis--His Mode of administering Justice--Prince Puckler Muskau's Account of his Interview 62

CHAPTER XIII.

THE RUINS OF CARTHAGE:--Reflections on Ancient Carthage--Hannibal and his Career--An Arab Domicile--Picturesque Appearance of the Ruins 69

CHAPTER XIV.

THE RUINS AGAIN:--Great Extent of the Ancient City Marsa, on the Sea-shore--Carthaginian Catacombs near Camatte--Quail Shooting--Trait of Honesty in the Arabs--The Arab Character--Anecdotes concerning them 76

CHAPTER XV.

HOME:--My Fellow-passenger, the Sportsman--Passage from Tunis to Malta in a Sailing Vessel--Disagreeables of the Passage--Home Overland--Conclusion 83

NOTES FOR THE SPORTSMAN OR TOURIST IN NORTH AFRICA 88

NOTES IN NORTH AFRICA.