Chapter I: Front Matter

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NOTES

OF A

TWENTY-FIVE YEARS' SERVICE

IN THE

HUDSON'S BAY TERRITORY.

BY JOHN M'LEAN.

IN TWO VOLUMES.

VOL. II.

LONDON:

RICHARD BENTLEY, NEW BURLINGTON STREET,

PUBLISHER IN ORDINARY TO HER MAJESTY.

1849.

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CONTENTS

OF

THE SECOND VOLUME.

CHAPTER I.

Journey to Norway House 9

CHAPTER II.

Arrival at York Factory--Its Situation--Climate--Natives--Rein-Deer--Voyage to Ungava--Incidents of the Voyage--Arrival at Ungava--Situation and Aspect 16

CHAPTER III.

Exploring Expedition through the Interior of Labrador--Difficulties--Deer Hunt--Indian Gluttony--Description of the Country--Provisions run short--Influenza 32

CHAPTER IV.

Distressing Bereavement--Exploring Party--their Report--Arrival at Esquimaux--Establish Posts--Pounding Rein-Deer--Expedition up George's River--Its Difficulties--Hamilton River--Discover a stupendous Cataract--Return by George's River to the Sea--Sudden Storm and miraculous Escape 60

CHAPTER V.

Esquimaux arrive from the North Shore of Hudson's Strait on a Raft--Despatch from the Governor--Distress of the Esquimaux--Forward Provisions to Mr. E----. Return of the Party--Their deplorable Condition 81

CHAPTER VI.

Trip to Esquimaux Bay--Governor's Instructions--My Report to the Committee--Recommend the Abandonment of Ungava Settlement--Success of the Arctic Expedition conducted by Messrs. Dease and Simpson--Return by Sea to Fort Chimo--Narrowly escape Shipwreck in the Ungava River--Impolitic Measure of the Governor--Consequent Distress at the Post 88

CHAPTER VII.

Another exploring Expedition--My Promotion--Winter at Chimo--Obtain permission to visit Britain--Ungava abandoned 98

CHAPTER VIII.

GENERAL REMARKS.

Climate of Ungava--Aurora Borealis--Soil--Vegetable Productions--Animals--Birds--Fish--Geological Features 102

CHAPTER IX.

The Nascopies--Their Religion--Manners and Customs--Clothing--Marriage--Community of Goods 118

CHAPTER X.

The Esquimaux--Probable Origin--Identity of Language from Labrador to Behring's Straits--Their Amours--Marriages--Religion--Treatment of Parents--Anecdote--Mode of Preserving Meat--Amusements--Dress--The Igloe, or Snow-House--Their Cuisine--Dogs--The Sledge--Caiak, or Canoe--Ouimiàk, or Boat--Implements--Stature 131

CHAPTER XI.

Labrador--Esquimaux Half-Breeds--Moravian Brethren--European Inhabitants--Their Virtues--Climate--Anecdote 155

CHAPTER XII.

Voyage to England--Arrival at Plymouth--Reflections--Arrive at the place of my Nativity--Changes--Depopulation--London--The Thames--Liverpool--Embark for New York--Arrival--The Americans--English and American Tourists--England and America--New York 167

CHAPTER XIII.

Passage from New York to Albany by Steamer--The Passengers--Arrival at Albany--Journey to Montreal 187

CHAPTER XIV.

Embark for the North--Passengers--Arrive at Fort William--Despatch from Governor--Appointed to McKenzie's River District--Portage La Loche--Adventure on Great Slave Lake--Arrive at Fort Simpson--Productions of the Post 193

CHAPTER XV.

Statements in the Edinburgh Cabinet Library--Alleged Kindness of the Hudson's Bay Company to the Indians--And Generosity--Support of Missionaries--Support withdrawn--Preference of Roman Catholics--The North-West Company--Conduct of a British Peer--Rivalry of the Companies--Coalition--Charges against the North-West Company refuted 207

CHAPTER XVI.

Arrival of Mr. Lefroy--Voyage to the Lower Posts of the McKenzie--Avalanche--Incidents of the Voyage--Voyage to Portage La Loche--Arbitrary and unjust Conduct of the Governor--Despotism--My Reply to the Governor 228

CHAPTER XVII.

Situation of Fort Simpson--Climate--The Liard--Effects of the Spring Floods--Tribes inhabiting McKenzie's River District--Peculiarities--Distress through Famine--Cannibalism--Anecdote--Fort Good Hope saved by the Intrepidity of M. Dechambault--Discoveries of Mr. Campbell 241

CHAPTER XVIII.

Mr. McPherson assumes the Command--I am appointed to Fort Liard, but exchange for Great Slave Lake--The Indians--Resolve to quit the Service--Phenomena of the Lake 255

CHAPTER XIX.

Reflections--Prospects in the Service--Decrease of the Game--Company's Policy in consequence--Appeal of the Indians--Means of Preserving them, and improving their Condition--Abolition of the Charter--Objections answered 260

CHAPTER XX.

Wesleyan Mission--Mr. Evans--Encouragement given by the Company--Mr. Evans' Exertions among the Indians--Causes of the Withdrawal of the Company's Support--Calumnious Charges against Mr. E.--Mr. E. goes to England--His sudden Death 278

CHAPTER XXI.

SKETCH OF RED RIVER SETTLEMENT.

Red River--Soils--Climate--Productions--Settlement of Red River through Lord Selkirk by Highlanders--Collision between the North-West and Hudson's Bay Companies--Inundation--Its Effects--French Half-Breeds--Buffalo Hunting--English Half-Breeds--Indians--Churches--Schools--Stores--Market for Produce--Communication by Lakes 289

CHAPTER XXII.

Sir G. Simpson--His Administration 311

* * * * *

VOCABULARY of the PRINCIPAL INDIAN DIALECTS in use among the Tribes in the Hudson's Bay Territory 323

* * * * *

NOTES

OF A

TWENTY-FIVE YEARS' SERVICE

IN THE

HUDSON'S BAY TERRITORY.

* * * * *