Chapter I: Preface

From the entreaties of a Friend the following “Notes” were written for his private eye:—from the solicitations of other friends they are now offered to the eye of the Public. The former were tender persuasions, and, in obeying them, the author had much and sincere gratification: he wishes he could feel as well assured that he is pursuing the path of wisdom, by yielding to the latter. But he is sensible that what may be amusing, or may be deemed even valuable, in the closet of friendship, may be very unfit to meet the less-prejudiced judgment of the world; and he is not without many apprehensions, lest a flattering partiality—a partiality which often deals praise, where no merit is due, should have induced him to present to the Public, that which ought never to have escaped beyond the limits of private perusal.

Conscious how little his “Notes” are calculated to withstand the scrutinizing severity of criticism, he may observe that, at no time, during the period of writing them, had he a thought that they were destined to appear at the bar of the Public. To fulfil the wishes of one, whose sentiments and opinions were dear to him, was a grateful task: it was congenial to his feelings, and, regardless of studied rules, he performed it with all the freedom of familiar intercourse. He devoted to his friend, daily, the few last minutes before retiring to his pillow; whence it happened that his remarks were, often, traced with a drowsy pen, or hurried over with a wearied and reluctant arm: but, from adopting this habit, the busy occupation of the day suffered no interruption; all the occurrences were noted, whilst they were strongly alive in the memory; and those who have known the privation of a long and perilous absence from their home, and the objects of their esteem, will comprehend the many happy associations, which were, thus, brought to sweeten the hours of repose.

At the time of the author’s arrival in the West Indies, every thing, in the tropical regions, was new to him. He was desirous of obtaining information, and without waiting to digest his remarks into a systematic train; to stamp them with the importance of method; or to improve them by more mature observation, he endeavoured to convey, to his friend, a correct representation of the feelings impressed upon his mind, by the novel scenes around him, before habit and familiarity had weakened their effect.

He fears that the frequent repetitions, necessary to this mode of communication, will be found to be more tedious, and, in some instances, even more multiplied than a “thrice told tale;” but he saw no way of avoiding them, without altering the whole plan of the work, and depriving it of the only merit, which he feels it has any title to claim, viz. that of giving the occurrences, precisely as they passed before the eye. He was not engaged in a deliberate voyage of discovery; nor did the busy and anxious duties of his appointment allow him time for pursuits of minute investigation. The utmost he could hope was to catch events as they passed, and faithfully note them from the impression of the fleeting moment. If it should be objected to him that the remarks are not always of high importance, he would observe that it is not from great occurrences, alone, that a correct judgment is formed of men and things: it is more from the daily, common round, than from the great and blazoned events, that a just knowledge is acquired of the characters of individuals:—perhaps, also, of empires, nations, and colonies.

ADVERTISEMENT
TO THE
SECOND EDITION.

In presenting the former edition of the following “Notes” to the Public, the author explained that they were collected, from fleeting events, during a series of professional duties, which offered only short intervals of leisure and repose, and that they were originally intended only for the gratification of a private circle. He expressed, likewise, his apprehensions respecting their being submitted to general scrutiny, and the severity of criticism. He has now the satisfaction of remarking, that the public reception of the first impression has been more encouraging than he had allowed himself to expect. For several years past the book has been out of print, and, during this period, multiplied applications have been made, requesting the author to prepare a new edition.

In complying with these entreaties, he has been anxiously desirous of rendering the present pages more worthy of general attention: and with this view, he has availed himself of such candid and manly criticisms, as appeared to have arisen from a fair and liberal examination of the work.

Not only have those parts of the former edition, which were deemed irrelevant, been removed, and others, which appeared diffuse, condensed, but a considerable proportion of new matter, respecting the Islands of Martinique, Jamaica, and St. Domingo, as well as upon the subject of slavery in general, has been introduced. In order to accomplish this object, without increasing the bulk of the volumes, the author has found it necessary to have frequent recourse to abridgment, and even to the omission of whole pages, where the subject was of minor importance.

These extensive alterations and additions have been made with as much care as the various avocations of the author allowed him to bestow: still, he cannot but regret that the imperious duties of a professional life have not only considerably delayed the appearance of the present edition; but have prevented that minute and attentive revision which he wished it to receive.

BLOOMSBURY SQUARE,
_April, 1816_.

CONTENTS
OF
THE FIRST VOLUME.

LETTER I.
_Remarks on epistolary correspondence. Explanation why the
author’s narrative cannot be regular. Journey to Southampton.
Author attends at head quarters:—at the military hospital_ Page 1

LETTER II.
_Visit to the encampment near Southampton. Reflections upon the
occasion. Discouraging remarks of the spectators. Author’s
probable destination. Policy of yielding to passing
occurrences. Frivolity of the French character:—contrasted
with the gloomy dispositions of the English_ 5

LETTER III.
_Description of Portsmouth. Picture of a Portsmouth Cyprian.
Visit to the dock-yard, and to the Tigre ship of war. Haslar
Hospital:—its excellent establishment_ 13

LETTER IV.
_Author detained at Portsmouth. Weather tempestuous_ 23

LETTER V.
_Author and his comrades joined by Dr. Cleghorn. Visit to Forton
prison. Example of the vicissitudes of war_ 27

LETTER VI.
_Author goes on board the Ulysses, accompanied by Drs.
Henderson, Master, and Cleghorn. Embarkation scene at
Portsmouth. Accommodations of the Ulysses_ 29

LETTER VII.
_Sailing of the Leeward Island division. The Ulysses left to
join the Cork convoy. Firing of the ship’s cannon_ 36

LETTER VIII.
_Author detained at Spithead. The convoy dispersed by a
tremendous gale:—returns to Spithead. Many ships lost. The
“Stanley” transport, with troops, supposed to be of the
number. Effects of the storm upon the Ulysses. Author’s
sickness. Coarse jokes of the sailors_ 40

LETTER IX.
_The Ulysses destined to proceed, with troops, to the West
Indies. Author and comrades separated. Dr. Master and the
author appointed to embark on board the Lord Sheffield.
Further effects of the gale_ 45

LETTER X.
_Author’s perilous passage to the Mother-bank. His reception on
board the Diana frigate. Hospitality of Lieutenant Davy, and
the other officers. Author proceeds to the Lord Sheffield.
Character and appearance of that ship_ 48

LETTER XI.
_Unsettled state of the author. Visit to the “Commercé de
Marseilles.” Dr. Cleghorn joins the mess on board the Lord
Sheffield. Signal for departure_ 54

LETTER XII.
_Lord Sheffield at sea. Grand spectacle formed by the sailing of
the convoy. Alternate hopes and apprehensions. Ceremony of
fixing the “dead-lights” at sea. Fleet collected and again
dispersed. Distress on witnessing the awful situation of a
neighbouring ship. Separation of the Lord Sheffield from the
convoy. Carlisle Bay the rendezvous of the fleet_ 56

LETTER XIII.
_Author still at sea. Cruel succession of storms. Contrast
between the effects of a gale on the minds of landsmen and of
sailors. Sang froid of the steward. Description of a cabin
dinner at sea. The Lord Sheffield passes the Azores_ 65

LETTER XIV.
_Arrival of the Lord Sheffield in Carlisle Bay. Improved sailing
towards the conclusion of the voyage. Trade-wind welcomed.
Advantages of bathing in a tropical climate. “Prickly heat.”
First tidings of land being in sight. Coasting view of
Barbadoes. Entrance of Carlisle Bay. Description of the
harbour_ 75

LETTER XV.
_Process of cleaning and ornamenting the ship at sea. Every
sailor’s vessel “the best in the world.” Ceremony at crossing
the tropic. Porpoises. Mode of catching sharks. Description of
the flying fish. Temperature of the weather. Phenomenon of
lights round the vessel at night. Appearance of the rising and
setting sun_ 84

LETTER XVI.
_Anxiety for news. French privateering. St. Vincent saved from
the Charibs. Happy feeling on going on shore. Visit to a North
American slave-ship. Situation of the slaves. Visit to a
Liverpool Guinea-man_ 97

LETTER XVII.
_Description of a West Indian tavern. Mode of cooling wine.
Attendants of the table. The hostess. Interesting demeanour of
the bar-maid. Conversation of two negro girls_ 110

LETTER XVIII.
_Inactivity of the Barbadians. A gang of negroes. Indecencies of
the slaves. Baneful effect of such scenes upon European
modesty. Fight between two female slaves_ 121

LETTER XIX.
_Sabbath festivities of the slaves. Their music:—mode of
dancing. A negro funeral. Consequences of a belief in the
doctrine of transmigration. Stratagem of a slave-master to
prevent suicide_ 126

LETTER XX.
_Author’s introduction to the principal inhabitants of
Barbadoes. Visit of an European party at Dr. Hinde’s. Views of
the country. Inspection of the sugar and distilling houses.
The party attended by slaves, as running footmen. Degrading
scene of female slavery. Effects of the manchineel apple.
Description of a negro-yard. Accommodations of its
inhabitants. Their comparative happiness. Washing process_ 135

LETTER XXI.
_Visit to Col. Williams’s. Nature of the soil near Bridge-town.
Picturesque scenery of the part of the island called Scotland.
A boiling spring. Natural separation of petroleum. Mode of
collecting it. Grandeur of the cabbage tree. Mount
Hilloughby:—view from its summit. The runaway estate.
Delicious refreshment in a valley of fruits. Dinner-party
under the “social rock.” Tropical fruits. Examples of art
rivalling nature_ 147

LETTER XXII.
_Convoy still delayed. Alarm in Carlisle Bay. Oars employed as
sails. Adroitness of negroes in using the oar. The trade of
book-binder unknown at Barbadoes_ 166

LETTER XXIII.
_A marooning expedition. Visit to “Harrison’s Cave.” “Joe’s
River” Estate. Hospitalities at the “Bay-house.” Description
of the “Animal flower.” “Hackleton’s Cliff.” Visit at the
Colleton estate. The Barbadoes, or Codrington college. Mode of
claying sugar. Visit at “Clarke’s Court”—“Kendall,”
“Drax-hall,” and “Spendlove” estates. Happy situation of Mr.
Waith’s slaves. Their gratitude. Picture of a negro-yard.
Character of Mr. Waith. Visit to Mr. Elcock’s. Disappointment
regarding his botanical collection_ 172

LETTER XXIV.
_The convoy still absent. Unpleasant tidings from Grenada. A
French negro corps. State of the weather. Temporary hospitals,
and preparations for the sick at St. Anne’s Hill. Appearance
of a coco-nut grove by moon-light_ 206

LETTER XXV.
_State of the healing art at Barbadoes: ignorance of some of its
practitioners: qualifications necessary in a tropical climate:
apathy respecting illiterate pretenders. Description of a
cotton-mill. Mode of carrying children in Barbadoes. Wanton
cruelty towards a slave_ 212

LETTER XXVI.
_Part of the fleet safe in Carlisle Bay. Press-gangs visit the
transports. Proceedings of one of these bodies on board the
Lord Sheffield_ 219

LETTER XXVII.
_Visit to the Senate-house. Proceedings of the General Assembly
of the island. Dinner-party on board the Lord Sheffield.
Escape of a prisoner from Guadaloupe. Victor Hugues.
Prevalence of virtue, a test of good government_ 223

LETTER XXVIII.
_Arrival of a packet from England. Eagerness to ascertain the
news. Ordinary comforts improved by absence and privations.
Forlorn state of the expedition. Unfavorable reports from
Grenada and St. Vincent. Arrival of Sir Ralph Abercromby:—its
effects. Cork fleet at sea. Uncertainties of a sea voyage.
Arrival of the General Cuyler after imminent perils. Dutch
mode of punishment. Horrors excited by a leaky ship_ 228

LETTER XXIX.
_Arrival of vessels of the Cork division. Visit to the “Venus”
slave-ship. The tamarind tree_ 244

LETTER XXX.
_Author waits on the Commander in Chief. Voyage to St. Domingo
postponed. Author hitherto unaffected by climate. Proposed
tontine. Physicians of the St. Domingo staff placed on duty.
Sickness prevalent—especially in the vessels of the Cork
division. East India ships unfit for transports. Slaves more
healthy in the Guinea ships. Weather hot and oppressive_ 249

LETTER XXXI.
_More disappointments. Arrival of a fleet of merchantmen.
Character and adventure of poor Mac—_ 257

LETTER XXXII.
_Arrival of the body of the Cork fleet. Acuteness of sailors in
observing distant objects. Effects of a tropical climate on
the human system:—Brunonian illustration. Influence of climate
on a phlegmatic Dutchman_ 264

LETTER XXXIII.
_The chigoe. African mode of extracting it. Indolent labour of
slaves. Unmerited severity towards one of them_ 269

LETTER XXXIV.
_General observations concerning Barbadoes. Its importance, in
the opinion of its inhabitants. Its ample supply of stock.
Languid pronunciation of the Creoles. First party of slaves
seen by the author. State of the negroes. Account of the
elephantiasis, or “Barbadoes disease.” Titles of the estates.
Cottages of white inhabitants. Their habits, persons, and
complexions. Argument against the doctrine of conversion.
Ignorance respecting the Portsmouth convoy. Physicians of the
St. Domingo staff left on duty at Barbadoes. Number of sick.
Case of yellow fever_ 275

LETTER XXXV.
_Rumours of an approaching expedition. Fondness of the negroes
for the water. Their expertness in that element. Their
cleanliness_ 317

LETTER XXXVI.
_Author detached on secret service. Embarks on board the Grenada
transport. Crowded state of the ship. Means used to prevent
disease. Strength of the expedition. It passes to the south of
the sun_ 320

LETTER XXXVII.
_Destination of the expedition. Indications on approaching the
shores of Guiana. Preparations for debarkation_ 326

LETTER XXXVIII.
_The troops proceed on shore. Vexatious delays and
disappointments. Capitulation of Fort William Frederic.
Sickness of the troops. Influence of martial preparations upon
the soldiers. General aspect of the colony, and of the town of
Stabroek. Author seeks accommodations for the sick_ 328

LETTER XXXIX.
_Expedition against Berbische. Scarcity of animal provisions.
Zeal of an infuriated republican. Healthy appearance of the
colonists. Refutation of the alleged insalubrity of Guiana.
Visit to a coffee plantation. Gratifications in a tropical
country counteracted by climate. Fruit given to the sick. Sale
of negroes. Hospitality of the colonists. Author entreated by
a female slave to purchase her. Corporal punishment of slaves.
Barbarous exultation of a white female. Author’s chance of
prize-money_ 335

LETTER XL.
_Barbadoes the “London” of the windward colonies. Admiral
Christian’s arrival. Wet season at Stabroek. Negroes employed
to cut grass for sale. Cruel punishment of a slave. Visit to
“Arcadia.” Happy condition of Mr. Dougan’s slaves at “Profit.”
Musquitoes and fire-flies_ 346

LETTER XLI.
_Capitulation of Berbische. Intended negro corps. Critical
situation of the colony. Scarcity of animal provisions.
Liberality of colonists to the sick. Description of a regular
sale of negroes. Case of yellow fever, with appearances on
examination. Its appellation inaccurate_ 356

LETTER XLII.
_Author remains in Guiana. General Whyte considerate towards the
sick—Colonel Hislop likewise. Military Hospital at La
Bourgade. Singular request of a colonial lady. Account of the
Bush-negroes. Means employed to subdue them. Sagacity of the
Indians. Severities inflicted on the prisoners. Heroic
fortitude of Amsterdam, one of their leaders_ 366

LETTER XLIII.
_Accommodations of the medical officers. Visit from a naval
party. Attempts to procure animal provisions. Hospitality of
Capt. Dougan. Author’s rest at La Bourgade undisturbed by
musquitoes. State of the thermometer_ 380

LETTER XLIV.
_Further examples of yellow fever. Execution of a captain of the
Bush-negroes. Public punishment of slaves. Flagrant injustice
towards a negro carpenter_ 386

LETTER XLV.
_Author’s voyage to Berbische. Miserable accommodations of the
Voltigeur_ 395

LETTER XLVI.
_Situation of Fort St. Andrew. Town of New Amsterdam. State of
the colony. Accommodations for the sick. Author joins the mess
of the 93d regiment. Excellent discipline maintained by Col.
Gammell_ 422

LETTER XLVII.
_A Dutch sale of slaves:—a gala-day for the colonists. Affecting
conduct of a negro about to be separated from his wife. A
party of Indians. People from the woods employed to fell
timber. An Indian family_ 429

LETTER XLVIII.
_Hospitality of the Governor and Madame Van Battenburg. Visit to
Mynheer Ongre’s plantation. Celebration of His Majesty’s
birth-day. Report of the cannon through the deep woods_ 439

LETTER XLIX.
_Surrender of St. Lucie. Sudden effect of a coup de soleil.
Rapid fatality in a case of yellow fever. Alligators at Fort
St. Andrew. Fête of the slaves at Government-house.
Bacchanalian conduct of a party of officers. Proofs of the
Governor’s knowledge of the English language. Madame Van
Battenburg. Sumptuous entertainment at Mr. Blair’s. Unusual
domestic supply at his plantation. Visit to the yaw-house.
Treatment employed in this odious distemper_ 443

LETTER L.
_Influence of the will in subduing difficulties. A marooning
expedition up the river Berbische. Plantation “Het
Pleytanker”—“Essendam.” Hospitality of Mynheer Abbensets_ 459

LETTER LI.
_Marooning excursion continued. The party receive intelligence
concerning their route from Mr. Schneider. Plantation
“Vigilantie.” Severe labour supported by the slaves. Their
mode of refreshing themselves. Visit to the negro-yard at
Vigilantie. Example of the immoral effect of slavery. Singular
mode of punishment. Visit to le vieux Fiscal, and Mynheer
Scholten at Old Amsterdam. Anti-orange sentiments of le vieux
Fiscal_ 466

LETTER LII.
_Mynheer and Madame Scholten. Town of Old Amsterdam. Visit to
the dwellings of a party of Indians—and of manumitted negro
women. Dutch example of the united profession of
surgeon-barber. Estate “Johanna.” Its productive garden.
Singular appearance of a party ginning cotton_ 473

LETTER LIII.
_Journey over-land to Arends. Pleasing echo in the woods.
Apprehensions on account of the Bush-negroes. Picturesque
appearance of the travelling party and their slaves.
Hospitality and politeness of Mynheer Paùels. Arrival at
Mynheer Heynemann’s the Dutch post-holder, and captain of the
Indians. His household_ 480

LETTER LIV.
_Occupations of the morning at Mr. Heynemann’s. Indians termed
Bucks and Buckeen. Description of their common bow and arrow,
and the poisoned arrow. Account of the poison. Journey to
Savonette. Visit at an Indian hut in the night. Vandyke, the
deputy post-holder. Accommodations at Savonette_ 486

LETTER LV.
_Visit to an Indian town. Nonchalance of the inhabitants. The
Laba. Parental feeling of an Indian woman. Fate of a youthful
Indian lover. Habits of the Indians. Construction of their
dwellings. Pyeis and yowahoos. Visit to a huge tonquin-bean
tree. The Kiwihi. Return of the party to Mr. Heynemann’s, and
to Arends_ 497

LETTER LVI.
_Generous attention of Mynheer Heynemann: his duty as
post-holder—his character—elected a chief among the Indians.
General account of the native inhabitants of
Guiana:—contrasted with the Africans. Indian apparel. The
“Kway”_ 510

LETTER LVII.
_Indian practice of eradicating hair from the person. Indolence
and apathy of the people of the forest:—method observed in
their intoxication:—arbitrary and despotic towards their
females. Polygamy practised. Indians usually enbonpoint.
Obesity the effect of inaction, or indulgence in eating.
Grotesque appearance of the party journeying back to
“Johanna.” An Indian village. Miserable state of a diseased
woman. “Helvetia”—Hospitality of Mynheer Freinde. The party
fanned by slaves, during dinner, at Johanna. Renewed visit to
M. Scholten, and le vieux Fiscal. “Daargradt,” one of the
prize-estates. Musquitoes_ 518

LETTER LVIII.
_The party continue their journey down the river. Friendly
attention of Mynheer Abbensets. Habit of smoking. Annoyance
from musquitoes. Return to New Amsterdam. Retrospect of the
expedition. General reflections upon the scenery, mode of
travelling, &c. &c. Singular example of West Indian
complaisance_ 530

ERRATUM.

Page 22, line 1, _for_ Colbert, _read_, Cohorn.

NOTES,
_&c._