Chapter I: Preface

It was the intention of the writer to publish a narrative descriptive of his overland tour from the Atlantic to the Pacific soon after returning from California in 1876, and his excuse for the delay in publication is that a variety of circumstances compelled him to postpone for a time the duty of arranging the contents of his journal until other pressing matters had been satisfactorily attended to. Again, considerable unfinished literary work, set aside when he began preparation for crossing the Continent, had to be resumed, and for these reasons the story of his journey from "OCEAN TO OCEAN ON HORSEBACK" is only now ready for the printer. In view of this delay in going to press, the author will endeavor to show a due regard for the changes time has wrought along his line of march, and while noting the incidents of his long ride from day to day, it has been his aim so far as possible to discuss the regions traversed, the growth of cities and the development of their industries from the standpoint of the present.

Millard Glazier ALBANY, NEW YORK,

_August 22, 1895_.

CONTENTS.

CHAPTER I.

INTRODUCTORY.

Boyhood Longings--Confronted by Obstacles--Trapping Along the
Oswegatchie--Enter Gouverneur Wesleyan Seminary--Appointed
to State Normal College--Straitened Circumstances--Teach School
in Rensselaer County--War of the Rebellion--Enlist in a Cavalry
Regiment--Taken Prisoner--Fourteen Months in Southern
Prisons--Escape from Columbia--Recaptured--Escape from Sylvania,
Georgia--Re-enter the Army--Close of the War--Publish
"Capture, Prison-Pen and Escape" and Other Books--Decide to
Cross the Continent--Preparation for Journey--Ocean to Ocean on
Horseback 25

CHAPTER II.
BOSTON AND ITS ENVIRONS.

Early History and Development--Situation of the Metropolis
of New England--Boston Harbor--The Cradle of Liberty--Old
South Church--Migrations of the Post Office--Patriots of
the Revolution--The Boston Tea Party--Bunker Hill Monument--Visit
of Lafayette--The Public Library--House where Franklin
was Born--The Back Bay--Public Gardens--Streets of Boston--Soldiers'
Monument--The Old Elm--Commonwealth Avenue--State
Capitol--Tremont Temple--Edward Everett--Wendell
Phillips--William Loyd Garrison--Phillips Brooks--Harvard
University--Wellesley College--Holmes, Parkman--Prescott,
Lowell, Longfellow--Boston's Claims to Greatness 32

CHAPTER III.
LECTURE AT TREMONT TEMPLE.

Subject of Lecture--Objects Contemplated--Grand Army of the
Republic--Introduction by Captain Theodore L. Kelly--Reference
to Army and Prison Experiences--Newspaper Comment--Proceeds
of Lecture Given to Posts 7 and 15--Letter to Adjutant-General
of Department 70

CHAPTER IV.
BOSTON TO ALBANY.

_First Day_ of Journey--Start from the Revere House--Escorted to
Brighton by G. A. R. Comrades--Dinner at Cattle Fair Hotel--South
Framingham--_Second Day_--Boston and Albany Turnpike--Riding
in a Rain-storm--Arrival at Worcester--Lecture in Opera
House--Pioneer History--Rapid Growth of Worcester--Lincoln
Park--The Old Common--_Third and Fourth Days_--The Ride to
Springfield--Met by Wife and Daughter--Lecture at Haynes
Opera House--_Fifth Day_--Ride to Russell--The Berkshire Hills--_Sixth
Day_--Journey to Becket--Rainbow Reflections--_Seventh
Day_--Over the Hoosac Mountains--_Eighth Day_--Arrival at
Pittsfield--Among the Lebanon Shakers--_Ninth Day_--Reach
Nassau, New York 81

CHAPTER V.
FOUR DAYS AT ALBANY.

Nassau to Albany--Among Old Friends in Rensselaer County--Thoughts
of Rip Van Winkle--Crossing the Hudson--Albany as
Seen from the River--Schoolday Associations--Early History--Settled
by the Dutch--Henry Hudson--Killian Van Rensselaer--Fort
Orange--Peter Schuyler and Robert Livingstone--Lecture at
Tweddle Hall--Call at the Capitol--Meet Army Comrades. 110

CHAPTER VI.
ALBANY TO SYRACUSE.

_Fourteenth Day_--On the Schenectady Turnpike--Riding between
Showers--Talk with Peter Lansing--Reach Schenectady--Lecture
at Union Hall under G. A. R. Auspices--_Fifteenth and Sixteenth
Days_--Go over to Troy--Lecture at Harmony Hall--Visit Old
Friends--_Seventeenth Day_--Return to Schenectady--_Eighteenth
Day_--In the Mohawk Valley--Halt at Amsterdam--Reach Fonda--
_Nineteenth Day_--Saint Johnsville--_Twentieth Day_--Little
Falls--_Twenty-first Day_--Utica--_Twenty-second Day_--Rome--
_Twenty-third Day_--Chittenango 118

CHAPTER VII.
TWO DAYS AT SYRACUSE.

Walks and Talks with the People--Early History--Lake Onondaga--
Father Le Moyne--Discovery of Salt Springs--Major Danforth--Joshua
Forman--James Geddes--The Erie Canal--Visit of La Fayette--Syracuse
University--Lecture at Shakespeare Hall. 132

CHAPTER VIII.

SYRACUSE TO ROCHESTER.

_Twenty-sixth Day_--Grand Army Friends--General Sniper--Captain
Auer--Stopped by a Thunder-shower--An Unpleasant Predicament--
_Twenty-Seventh Day_--Jordan, New York--Lake Skaneateles--
_Twenty-eighth Day_--Photographed--Entertained at Port
Byron--Montezuma Swamp--_Twenty-ninth Day_--Newark, New
York--Journey Continued Along the New York Central Railway--Another
Adventure with _Paul_--_Thirtieth Day_--Fairport--Riding
in the Cool of the Day 141

CHAPTER IX.

FOUR DAYS AT ROCHESTER.

Rainstorm Anticipated--Friends of the Horse--Seven-Sealed Wonder--
Newspaper Controversy--Lecture at Corinthian Hall--Colonel
J. A. Reynolds--Pioneer History--Colonel Nathaniel Rochester--William
Fitzhugh--Charles Carroll--Rapid Growth of City--Sam
Patch--Genesee Falls--The Erie Canal--Mount Hope--Lake
Ontario--Fruit Nurseries 147

CHAPTER X.

ROCHESTER TO BUFFALO.

_Thirty-fifth Day_--Churchville--Cordiality of the People--Dinner
at Chili--_Thirty-sixth Day_--Bergen Corners--Byron Centre--Rev.
Edwin Allen--_Thirty-seventh Day_--Batavia--Meet a Comrade of
the Harris Light Cavalry--_Thirty-eighth Day_--"Croft's"--More
Trouble with Mosquitoes--Amusing Episode--_Thirty-ninth Day_--
Crittenden--Rural Reminiscences--_Fortieth Day_--Lancaster--Lectured
in Methodist Church--Captain Remington 158

CHAPTER XI.

THREE DAYS AT BUFFALO.

"Queen City" of the Lakes--Arrival at the Tift House--Lecture
at St. James Hall--Major Farquhar--Aboriginal History--The
Eries--Iroquois--"Cats"--La Hontan--Lake Erie--Black Rock--War
of 1812--The Erie Canal--Buffalo River--Grosvenor Library--Historical
Society--Red Jacket--Forest Lawn--Predictions
for the Future 171

CHAPTER XII.

BUFFALO TO CLEVELAND.

_Forty-fourth Day_--On the Shore of Lake Erie--_Forty-fifth Day_--Again
on the Shore of Erie--Bracing Air--Enchanting Scenery--Angola--Big
Sister Creek--_Forty-sixth Day_--Angola to Dunkirk--_Forty-eighth
Day_--Dunkirk to Westfield--Fruit and Vegetable
Farms--Fredonia--_Forty-ninth Day_--Westfield to North East--Cordial
Reception--_Fiftieth Day_--North East to Erie--Oliver
Hazzard Perry--_Fifty-first Day_--Erie to Swanville--_Fifty-second
Day_--Talk with Early Settlers--John Joseph Swan--_Fifty-third
Day_--Swanville to Girard--Greeted by Girard Band--Lecture at
Town Hall--_Fifty-fourth Day_--Girard to Ashtabula--Lecture
Postponed--_Fifty-fifth Day_--Ashtabula to Painesville--The Centennial
Fourth--Halt at Farm House--_Fifty-sixth Day_--Reach
Willoughby--Guest of the Lloyds 183

CHAPTER XIII.

FIVE DAYS AT CLEVELAND.

An Early Start--School Girls--"Do you Like Apples, Mister?"--Mentor--Home
of Garfield--Dismount at Euclid--Rumors of the
Custer Massacre--Reach the "Forest City"--Met by Comrades of
the G. A. R.--Lecture at Garrett Hall--Lake Erie--Cuyahoga
River--Early History--Moses Cleveland--Connecticut Land Company--Job
Stiles--The Ohio Canal--God of Lake Erie--"Ohio
City"--West Side Boat Building--"The Pilot"--Levi Johnson-Visit
of Lorenzo Dow--Monument Square--Commodore Perry--Public
Buildings--Euclid Avenue--"The Flats"--Standard Oil
Company 206

CHAPTER XIV.

CLEVELAND TO TOLEDO.

_Sixty-first Day_--Again in the Saddle--Call on Major Hessler--Donate
Proceeds of Lecture to Soldiers' Monument Fund--Letters
from General James Barnett and Rev. William Earnshaw--Stop
for Night at Black River--_Sixty-second Day_--Mounted at Nine
A.M.--Halted at Vermillion for Dinner--Lake Shore Road--More
Mosquitoes--Reach Huron Late at Night--_Sixty-third Day_--Huron
to Sandusky--Traces of the Red Man--Ottawas and
Wyandots--Johnson's Island--Lecture in Union Hall--Captain
Culver--_Sixty-fourth Day_--Ride to Castalia--A Remarkable Spring--
_Sixty-fifth Day_--Reach Fremont--Home of President Hayes--_Sixty-sixth
Day_--Reach Elmore, Ohio--Comparison of Hotels 221

CHAPTER XV.

FIVE DAYS AT TOLEDO.

Ride from Elmore--Lecture at Lyceum Hall--Forsyth Post, G. A.
R.--Doctor J. T. Woods--Concerning General Custer--Pioneer
History--Battle of Fallen Timbers--Mad Anthony Wayne--
Miami and Wabash Indians--The Toledo War--Unpleasant Complications--
Governor Lucas--Strategy of General Vanfleet--
Milbourn Wagon Works--Visited by a Detroit Friend 231

CHAPTER XVI.

TOLEDO TO DETROIT.

_Seventy-second Day_--Leave Toledo--Change of Route--Ride to Erie,
Michigan--_Paul_ Shows His Mettle--_Seventy-third Day_--Sunday
--Go to Church--Rev. E. P. Willard--Solicitude of Friends--
_Seventy-fourth Day_--Ride to Monroe--Greeted with Music--Hail
Columbia--Star-Spangled Banner--Home of Custer--Meet Custer
Family--Custer Monument Association--Received at City Hall--Great
Enthusiasm--River Rasin--Indian Massacre--General Winchester--
Battle of the Thames--Death of Tecumseh--Monroe
_Monitor_--_Seventy-seventh Day_--Lecture at City Hall--Personal
Recollections of Custer--Incidents of His School Life--_Seventy-eighth
Day_--Leave Monroe--Huron River--Traces of the Mound
Builders--Rockwood--_Seventy-ninth Day_--Along the Detroit
River--Wyandotte--Ecorse--_Eightieth Day_--Letter from Judge
Wing--Indorsement of Custer Monument Association 243

CHAPTER XVII.

FOUR DAYS AT DETROIT.

Leave Ecorse--Met at Fort Wayne--Sad News--Reach Detroit--
Met by General Throop and Others--at Russell House--Lecture at
St. Andrew's Hall--General Trowbridge--Meet Captain Hampton
--Army and Prison Reminiscences--Pioneer History of Detroit--
La Motte Cadillac--Miamies and Pottawattomies--Fort Ponchartrain--
Plot of Pontiac--Major Gladwyn--Fort Shelby--War of
1812--General Brock and Tecumseh Advance on Detroit--Surrender
of General Hull--British Compelled to Evacuate 265