Chapter I: Part 1

OFFICIAL REPORT OF THE NIGER VALLEY EXPLORING PARTY

by

MARTIN R DELANY

Published 1861

_Contents_

Official Report of the Niger Valley Exploring Party

Section I. Political Movements 229

Section II. Succeeding Conventions 234

Section III. History of the Project 236

Section IV. Arrival and Reception in Liberia 254

Section V. Liberia--Climate, Soil,
Productions, etc. 263

Section VI. Diseases--Cause--Remedy 278

Section VII. The Interior--Yoruba 284

Section VIII. Topography, Climate, etc. 288

Section IX. Diseases of This Part of Africa,
Treatment, Hygiene, Aliment 312

Section X. Missionary Influence 332

Section XI. What Africa Now Requires 338

Section XII. To Direct Legitimate Commerce 345

Section XIII. Cotton Staple 351

Section XIV. Success in Great Britain 361

Section XV. Commercial Relations in Scotland 379

Section XVI. The Time to Go to Africa 387

Section XVII. Concluding Suggestions 391

I

POLITICAL MOVEMENTS

On or about the latter part of July, 1853, the following document was sent on, and shortly appeared in the columns of "FREDERICK DOUGLASS' PAPER," Rochester, N.Y., and the "ALIENED AMERICAN," published and edited by William Howard Day, Esq., M.A., at Cleveland, Ohio, U.S., which continued in those papers every issue, until the meeting of the Convention:

CALL FOR A NATIONAL EMIGRATION CONVENTION OF COLORED MEN _To be held in Cleveland, Ohio, on the 24th, 25th, and 26th of August, 1854_

MEN AND BRETHREN: The time has fully come when we, as an oppressed
people, should do something effectively, and use those means
adequate to the attainment of the great and long desired end--do
something to meet the actual demands of the present and prospective
necessities of the rising generation of our people in this country.
To do this, we must occupy a position of entire _equality_, of
_unrestricted_ rights, composing in fact, an acknowledged
_necessary_ part of the _ruling element_ of society in which we
live. The policy _necessary_ to the _preservation_ of this
_element_ must be _in our favor_, if ever we expect the enjoyment,
freedom, sovereignty, and equality of rights anywhere. For this
purpose, and to this end, then, all colored men in favor of
Emigration out of the United States, and _opposed_ to the American
Colonization scheme of leaving the Western Hemisphere, are
requested to meet in CLEVELAND, OHIO, TUESDAY, the 24th day of
AUGUST, 1854, in a great NATIONAL CONVENTION, then and there to
consider and decide upon the great and important subject of
Emigration from the United States.

No person will be admitted to a seat in the Convention, who would
introduce the subject of Emigration to the Eastern
Hemisphere--either to Asia, Africa, or Europe--as our object and
determination are to consider our claims to the West Indies,
Central and South America, and the Canadas. This restriction has no
reference to _personal_ preference, or _individual_ enterprise; but
to the great question of national claims to come before the
Convention.

All persons coming to the Convention must bring credentials
properly authenticated, or bring verbal assurance to the Committee
on Credentials--appointed for the purpose--of their fidelity to the
measures and objects set forth in this call, as the Convention is
specifically by and for the friends of Emigration, and none
others--and no opposition to them will be entertained.

The question is not whether our condition can be bettered by
emigration, but whether it can be made worse. If not, then, there
is no part of the wide spread universe, where our social and
political condition are not better than here in our native country,
and nowhere in the world as here, proscribed on account of color.

We are friends to, and ever will stand shoulder to shoulder by our
brethren, and all our friends in all good measures adopted by them
for the bettering of our condition in this country, and surrender
no rights but with our last breath; but as the subject of
Emigration is of vital importance, and has ever been shunned by all
delegated assemblages of our people as heretofore met, we cannot
longer delay, and will not be farther baffled; and deny the right
of our most sanguine friend or dearest brother, to prevent an
intelligent inquiry into, and the carrying out of these measures,
when this can be done, to our entire advantage, as we propose to
show in Convention--as the West Indies, Central and South
America--the majority of which are peopled our brethren, or those
identified with us in race, and what is more, _destiny_, on this
continent--all stand with open arms and yearning hearts,
importuning us in the name of suffering humanity to come--to make
common cause, and share one common fate on the continent.

The Convention will meet without fail at the time fixed for
assembling, as none but those favorable to Emigration are
admissible; therefore no other gathering may prevent it. The number
of delegates will not be restricted--except in the town where the
Convention may be held--and there the number will be decided by the
Convention when assembled, that they may not too far exceed the
other delegations.

The time and place fixed for holding the Conventions are ample;
affording sufficient time, and a leisure season generally--and as
Cleveland is now the centre of all directions--a good and favorable
opportunity to all who desire to attend. Therefore, it may
reasonably be the greatest gathering of the colored people ever
before assembled in a Convention in the United States.

Colonizationists are advised, that no favors will be shown to them
or their expatriating scheme, as we have no sympathy with the
enemies of our race.

All colored men, East, West, North, and South, favorable to the
measures set forth in this Call will send in their names
(post-paid) to M. R. DELANY, or REV. WM. WEBB, Pittsburgh, Pa.,
that there may be arranged and attached to the Call, _five_ names
from each State.

We must make an issue, create an event, and establish a position
_for ourselves_. It is glorious to think of, but far more glorious
to carry out.

REV. WM. WEBB, M. R. DELANY, H. G. WEBB, THOS. A. BROWN, JOHN
JONES, R. L. HAWKINS, SAMUEL VENERABLE, JOHN WILLIAMS, A. F.
HAWKINS, S. W. SANDERS, JEFFERSON MILLER, _Pittsburgh, Pa._; REV.
A. R. GREEN, P. L. JACKSON, J. H. MAHONEY, G. HARPER, JONATHAN
GREEN, H. A. JACKSON, E. R. PARKER, SAMUEL BRUCE, _Allegheny City_;
J. J. GOULD BIAS, M.D., REV. M. M. CLARK, A. M. SUMNER, JOHNSON
WOODLIN, _Philadelphia_; JAMES M. WHITFIELD, JOHN N. STILL, STANLEY
MATTHEWS, _New York_.

This Call was readily responded to by the addition of names from
other States, which appeared in subsequent issues.

* * * * *

At the Convention, which according to the Call sat in Cleveland
successively on Thursday, 24th, Friday, 25th, and Saturday, 26th of
August, 1854, the following States were represented: Rhode Island,
New York, Pennsylvania, Ohio, Michigan, Wisconsin, Indiana,
Missouri, Kentucky, Tennessee, Louisiana, Virginia, and the
Canadas; the great body consisting of nearly sixteen hundred
persons. W. H. DAY, Esq., editor of the _Aliened American_, entered
the Convention, and the Chairman invited him forward, offering him
the privileges of the Convention, stating that wherever colored
people were, William Howard Day was free--whether or not he
altogether agreed in sentiment on minor points; and the Convention
unanimously concurred in the invitation given.

Mr. Day subsequently proffered to the Convention any books or
documents at his command for the use of that body.

The following permanent Institution was established:

ORGANIZATION OF THE NATIONAL BOARD OF COMMISSIONERS

_Central Commissioners, Pittsburgh, Pennsylvania_--M. R. DELANY,
President; WM. WEBB, Vice-President; THOS. A. BROWN, Treasurer;
EDW. R. PARKER, Auditor; CHAS. W. NIGHTEN, Secretary; PROFESSOR M.
H. FREEMAN, A.M., Special For. Sec.; SAMUEL VENERABLE, ALFRED H.
JOHNS, SAMUEL BRUCE, PARKER SORRELL.

DEPARTMENTS

_Committee on Domestic Relations._--SAMUEL BRUCE, Chairman; SAMUEL
VENERABLE, CHARLES W. NIGHTEN. _Financial Relations._--THOMAS A.
BROWN, Chairman; PARKER SORRELL, ALFRED H. JOHNS. _Foreign
Relations._--REV. WM. WEBB, Chairman; M. R. DELANY, EDW. R. PARKER.
_Special Foreign Secretary._ PROF. MARTIN H. FREEMAN, A. M. _State
Commissioners._--_Massachusetts_--WM. C. NELL, _Boston_; C. L.
REMOND, Salem. _New York, Buffalo._--JAMES M. WHITFIELD, J.
THEODORE HOLLY. _Ohio, Cincinnati._--AUGUSTUS R. GREEN, PHILLIP
TOLIVAR, Jun. _Michigan, Detroit._--WILLIAM C. MUNROE, WILLIAM
LAMBERT. _Kentucky, Louisville._--CONAWAY BARBOUR, JAMES H. GIPSON.
_Missouri, St. Louis._--REV. RICH'D ANDERSON, REV. JORDAN BROWN.
_Virginia, Richmond._--RICHARD HENDERSON, JOHN E. FERGUSON.
_Tennessee, Nashville._--ELDER PETER A. H. LOWRY, CHARLES BARRATT.
_Louisiana, New Orleans._--JORDAN B. NOBLE, REV. JOHN GARROW.
_California, San Francisco._--HENRY M. COLLINS, ORANGE LEWIS.

II

SUCCEEDING CONVENTIONS

The Second Convention, pursuant to a call, was held in Cleveland,
in August, 1856, when some modification and amendments were made in
the Constitution, and some changes in the officers of the Board;
but the president was unanimously re-elected, and continued in
office until the close of the of the Third Convention, which met
pursuant to a call in the town of Chatham, Canada West, in August,
1858, when, resigning his position in the Board, the following
officers succeeded to the

GENERAL BOARD OF
COMMISSIONERS

CENTRAL COMMISSIONERS--CHATHAM, CANADA
WILLIAM HOWARD DAY, President
MATISON F. BAILEY, Vice-President
GEORGE WASH. BRODIE, Secretary
JAMES MADISON BELL, Treasurer
ALFRED WHIPPER, Auditor
MARTIN R. DELANY, Foreign Secretary

NOTE.--The names only of the Central Commissioners are here given,
the others being re-elected as chosen in 1856, at Cleveland.

OTHER MEMBERS

ABRAM D. SHADD
J. HENRY HARRIS
ISAAC D. SHADD

At an Executive Council Meeting of the Board, September 1st, 1858,
the following resolution, as taken from the Minutes, was adopted:
That Dr. Martin R. Delany, of Chatham, Kent Country, Canada West,
be a Commissioner to explore in Africa, with full power to choose
his own colleagues.

III

HISTORY OF THE PROJECT

In the winter of 1831-32, being then but a youth, I formed the
design of going to Africa, the land of my ancestry; when in the
succeeding winter of 1832-33, having then fully commenced to study,
I entered into a solemn promise with the Rev. Molliston Madison
Clark, then a student in Jefferson College, at Cannonsburg,
Washington County, Pennsylvania, being but seventeen miles from
Pittsburgh, where I resided (his vacations being spent in the
latter place), to complete an education, and go on an independent
and voluntary mission--to travel in Africa--I as a physician and he
as a clergyman, for which he was then preparing.

During these vacations of about seven weeks each, Mr. Clark was of
great advantage to me in my studies, he being then a man of
probably thirty years of age, or more, and in his senior year (I
think) at college.

This design I never abandoned, although in common with my race in
America, I espoused the cause, and contended for our political and
moral elevation on equality with the whites, believing then, as I
do now, that merit alone should be the test of individual claims in
the body politic. This cause I never have nor will abandon;
believing that no man should hesitate or put off any duty for
another time or place, but "act, act in the _living present_, act,"
_now_ or _then_. This has been the rule of my life, and I hope ever
shall be.

In 1850, I had fully matured a plan for an adventure, and to a
number of select intelligent gentlemen (of African descent, of
course) fully committed myself in favor of it. They all agreed that
the scheme was good; and although neither of them entered
personally into it, all fully sanctioned it, bidding me God-speed
in my new adventure, as a powerful handmaid to their efforts in
contending for our rights in America.

* * * * *

In 1854, at the great Emigration Convention in Cleveland, my paper,
read and adopted as a "Report on the Political Destiny of the
Colored Race on the American Continent," set forth fully my views
on the advantages of Emigration.

* * * * *

Although the Call itself strictly prohibits the introduction of the
question of emigration from the American Continent or Western
Hemisphere, the qualification which directly follows--"This
restriction has no reference to _personal_ preference, or
_individual_ enterprise"--may readily be understood. It was a mere
policy on the part of the authors of those documents, to confine
their scheme to America (including the West Indies), whilst they
were the leading advocates of the regeneration of Africa, lest they
compromised themselves and their people to the avowed enemies of
the race.

* * * * *

The Convention (at Cleveland, 1854), in its Secret Sessions made,
Africa, with its rich, inexhaustible productions, and great
facilities for checking the abominable Slave Trade, its most
important point of dependence, though each individual was left to
take the direction which in his judgment best suited him. Though
our great gun was leveled, and the first shell thrown at the
American Continent, driving a slaveholding faction into despair,
and a political confusion from which they have been utterly unable
to extricate themselves, but become more and more complicated every
year, _Africa was held in reserve, until by the help of an All-wise
Providence we could effect what has just been accomplished with
signal success_--a work which the most sanguine friend of the cause
believed would require at least the half of a century.

It is a curious, and not less singular historical fact, that a
leading political journal, and the first newspaper which nominated
Mr. James Buchanan, many years ago, for the Presidency of the
United States; and at a time whilst he was yet at the court of St.
James (1854), as Envoy Extraordinary, this paper was strongly
urging his claims as such, thus expresses itself, which gives a
fair idea of the political pro-slavery press generally, especially
in Pennsylvania, Mr. Buchanan's native State. I intended to give
the article entire, as alarm will be seen even at the commencement;
but pressure for space will prevent my quoting but a few sentences.
It is from the Pittsburgh _Daily Morning Post_, Wednesday, October
18th, 1854:

A GRAND SCHEME FOR THE COLORED RACE

In August last, a National Convention of colored people was held at
Cleveland, Ohio. It was composed of delegates from most of the
States. It was called the 'National Emigration Convention,' and its
objects were to consider the political destinies of the black race;
and recommend a plan of Emigration to countries where they can
enjoy political liberty, and form nations 'free and independent.'

The Committee then proceeds to mark out a grand scheme by which the
Negro race may be regenerated, and formed into free, intelligent,
and prosperous nations. The West India Islands, Central America,
and all the Northern and middle portions of South America,
including the whole of Brazil, are designated as the regions
desired; and that can be obtained as the seat of Negro civilization
and empire. These regions and islands together are represented as
containing twenty-four and a half millions of population; but
one-seventh of which, some three and a half millions, are whites of
pure European extraction; and the remainder, nearly twenty-one
millions, are colored people of African and Indian origin. This
immense preponderance of the colored races in those regions, it is
supposed, will enable them, with the aid of Emigration from the
United States, to take possession of all those countries and
islands, and become the ruling race in the empires to be formed out
of those wide and fruitful realms. The Committee expresses full
confidence in the practicability of this great undertaking; and
that nothing is wanting to its success at no distant day but
unanimity of sentiment and action among the masses of the colored
people. The climate of those regions is represented as entirely
congenial to the colored race, while to the European races it is
enervating and destructive; and this fact, added to the present
immense superiority of numbers on the part of the negroes, is
relied on as a sure guarantee of the success of the great
enterprise; and that their race could forever maintain the
possession and control of those regions.

Other great events, it is supposed, will follow in the train of
this mighty movement. With the West India Islands, and Central and
South America, composing free negro nations, slavery in the United
States would, they suppose, soon be at an end. The facility of
escape, the near neighborhood of friends and aid, it is urged,
would rapidly drain off from the Southern States all the most
intelligent, robust, and bold of their slaves.

Dr. M. R. Delany, of Pittsburgh, was the chairman of the committee
that made this report to the convention. It was, of course,
adopted.

If Dr. D. drafted this report, it certainly does him much credit
for learning and ability; and cannot fail to establish for him a
reputation for vigor and brilliancy of imagination never yet
surpassed. It is a vast conception of impossible birth. The
Committee seem to have entirely overlooked the strength of the
'powers on earth' that would oppose the Africanization of more than
half the Western Hemisphere.

We have no motive in noticing this gorgeous dream of 'the
Committee,' except to show its fallacy--its impracticability, in
fact, its absurdity. No sensible man, whatever his color, should be
for a moment deceived by such impracticable theories.

On the African coast already exists a thriving and prosperous
Republic. It is the native home of the African race; and there he
can enjoy the dignity of manhood, the rights of citizenship, and
all the advantages of civilization and freedom. Every colored man
in this country will be welcomed there as a free citizen; and there
he can not only prosper, and secure his own comfort and happiness,
but become a teacher and benefactor of his kindred races; and
become an agent in carrying civilization and Christianity to a
benighted continent. That any one will be turned aside from so
noble a mission by the delusive dream of conquest and empire in the
Western Hemisphere is an absurdity too monstrous and mischievous to
be believed. Yet 'the Committee's Report' was accepted, and
adopted, and endorsed by a 'National Convention;' and is published
and sent forth to the world.

In July, 1855, Rev. James Theodore Holly, an accomplished black gentleman, now rector of St. Luke's Church, New Haven, Connecticut, U.S., was commissioned to Faustin Soulouque, Emperor of Hayti, where he was received at court with much attention, interchanging many official notes during a month's residence there, with favorable inducements to laborers to settle.

During the interval from the first convention, 1854 to 1858, as President of the Council, I was actively engaged corresponding in every direction, among which were several States of Central and South America, as well as Jamaica and Cuba; the Rev. J. T. Holly, who, during two years of the time, filled the office of Foreign Secretary, contributing no small share in its accomplishment.

Immediately after the convention of 1856, from which I was absent by sickness, I commenced a general correspondence with individuals, imparting to each the basis of my adventure to Africa to obtain intelligent colleagues. During this time (the Spring of 1857), "Bowen's Central Africa" was published, giving an interesting and intelligent account of that extensive portion of Africa known on the large missionary map of that continent as Yoruba. Still more encouraged to carry out my scheme at this juncture, Livingstone's great work on Africa made its appearance, which seemed to have stimulated the Africo-Americans in many directions, among others, those of Wisconsin, from whom Mr. Jonathan J. Myers, a very respectable grocer, was delegated as their Chairman to counsel me on the subject. In the several councils held between Mr. Myers and myself, it was agreed and understood that I was to embody their cause and interests in my mission to Africa, they accepting of the policy of my scheme.

At this time, I made vigorous efforts to accomplish my design, and for this purpose, among others, endeavored to obtain goods in Philadelphia to embark for Loando de St. Paul, the Portuguese colony in Loango, South Africa, where the prospect seemed fair for a good trade in beeswax and ivory, though Lagos, West Central Africa, was my choice and destination. Robert Douglass, Esq., artist, an accomplished literary gentleman (landscape, portrait painter, and photographer) of Philadelphia with whom I was in correspondence, sent me the following note:

MR. M. R. DELANY:--PHILADELPHIA, June 17, 1858

DEAR SIR--I think very highly of the intended Expedition to the
'Valley of the Niger.' I would be pleased to accompany it
professionally, if I were to receive a proper outfit and salary.
Dr. Wilson declines; but Mr. Robert Campbell, of the 'Institute for
Colored Youth,' a very accomplished Chemist, &c., &c., &c., says he
will gladly accompany the Expedition, if a proper support for his
family in his absence were assured. Rev. William Douglass, in
conversation with me, has expressed very favorable views. Hoping
you may be very successful, I remain in expectation of receiving
more detailed accounts of the plan, its prospects and progress,

Your friend and well-wisher,
ROBERT DOUGLASS

_661, N. Thirteenth St., Phil._

Up to this time, I had never before known or heard of Mr. Campbell, who is a West India gentleman, native bred in Jamaica, but the recommendation of Mr. Douglass, an old acquaintance and gentleman of unsullied integrity, accompanied as it was by the following note from Dr. Wilson, also an accomplished gentleman of equal integrity, a physician, surgeon, and chemist, who, being selected by me as Surgeon and Naturalist of the party, also recommended Mr. Campbell in a detached note which has been mislaid, was sufficient at the time:

DR. DELANY:--PHILADELPHIA, June 7th, 1858

DEAR SIR--I received your note of May 25th, through the kindness of
R. Douglass, Jr., and can truly say, I am highly gratified to learn
of so laudable an enterprise and expedition; and would be happy and
proud to be numbered with the noble hearts and brilliant minds,
identified with it. Yet, whilst I acknowledge (and feel myself
flattered by) the honor conferred upon me in being selected for so
important and honorable position, I regret to inform you, that it
will be wholly out of my power to accept.

Very respectfully,
JAMES H. WILSON

_838, Lombard Street._

I have been the more induced to give the letters of Mr. Douglass and Dr. Wilson in favor of Mr. Campbell, because some of my friends were disposed to think that I "went out of the way to make choice of an entire stranger, unknown to us, instead of old and tried acquaintances," as they were pleased to express it. I had but one object in view--the Moral, Social, and Political Elevation of Ourselves, and the Regeneration of Africa, for which I desired, as a _preference_, and indeed the only _adequate_ and _essential_ means by which it is to be accomplished, men of African descent, properly qualified and of pure and fixed principles. These I endeavored to select by corresponding only with such of my acquaintances.

At the Council which appointed me Commissioner to Africa, having presented the names of Messrs. Douglass and Campbell, asking that they also might be chosen; at a subsequent meeting the following action took place:

Whereas, Dr. Martin R. Delany, Commissioner to Africa, having presented the names of Messrs. Robert Douglas and Robert Campbell of Philadelphia, Pa., U.S., requesting that they be appointed Commissioners, the Board having made him Chief Commissioner with full power to appoint his own Assistants, do hereby sanction the appointment of these gentlemen as Assistant Commissioners.

A paper was then laid before the Council, presenting the name and scheme of the party, which was received and adopted.

Dr. Amos Aray, surgeon, a highly intelligent gentleman, and Mr. James W. Purnell, also an intelligent young gentleman, bred to mercantile pursuits, having subsequently sent in their names and received appointments by the Chief Commissioner, the following document was made out:

AFRICAN COMMISSION

The President and Officers of the General Board of Commissioners,
viz: William H. Day, A.M., President; Matison F. Bailey,
Vice-President; George W. Brodie, Secretary; James Madison Bell,
Treasurer; Alfred Whipper, Auditor; Dr. Martin R. Delany, Special
Foreign Secretary; Abram D. Shadd, James Henry Harris, and Isaac D.
Shadd, the Executive Council in behalf of the organization for the
promotion of the political and other interests of the Colored
Inhabitants of North America, particularly the United States and
Canada.

To all, unto whom these letters may come, greeting: The said
General Board of Commissioners, in Executive Council assembled,
have this day chosen, and by these presents do hereby appoint and
authorize Dr. Martin Robison Delany, of Chatham, County of Kent,
Province of Canada, Chief Commissioner; and Robert Douglass, Esq.,
Artist, and Prof. Robert Campbell, Naturalist, both of
Philadelphia, Pennsylvania, one of the United States of America, to
be Assistant Commissioners; Amos Aray, Surgeon; and James W
Purnell, Secretary and Commercial Reporter, both of Kent County,
Canada West, of a Scientific Corps, to be known by the name of

THE NIGER VALLEY EXPLORING PARTY

The object of this Expedition is to make a Topographical, Geological
and Geographical Examination of the Valley of the River Niger, in
Africa, and an inquiry into the state and condition of the people of
that Valley, and other parts of Africa, together with such other
scientific inquiries as may by them be deemed expedient, for the
purposes of science and for general information; and without any
reference to, and with the Board being entirely opposed to any
Emigration there as such. Provided, however, that nothing in this
Instrument be so construed as to interfere with the right of the
Commissioners to negotiate in their own behalf, or that of any other
parties, or organization for territory.

The Chief-Commissioner is hereby authorized to add one or more
competent Commissioners to their number; it being agreed and
understood that this organization is, and is to be exempted from the
pecuniary responsibility of sending out this Expedition.

Dated at the Office of the Executive Council, Chatham, county of
Kent, Province of Canada, this Thirtieth day of August, in the year
of our Lord, One Thousand Eight Hundred and Fifty-eight.

By the President,
WILLIAM HOWARD DAY
ISAAC D. SHADD, Vice-President[1]
GEORGE W. BRODIE, Secretary

So soon as these names with their destined mission were officially published, there arose at once from mistaken persons (_white_) in Philadelphia, a torrent of opposition, who presuming to know more about us (the blacks) and our own business than we did ourselves, went even so far as to speak to one of our party, and tell him that we were _not ready_ for any such _important_ undertaking, nor could be in _three years yet to come_! Of course, as necessary to sustain this, it was followed up with a dissertation on the _disqualification_ of the Chief of the Party, mentally and physically, _external_ appearances and all. So effectually was this opposition prosecuted, that colored people in many directions in the United States and the Canadas, were not only affected by it, but a "Party" of three had already been chosen and appointed to supersede us! Even without any knowledge on my part, claims were made in England in behalf of the "Niger Valley Exploring Party," solely through the instrumentality of these Philadelphians.

Such were the effects of this, that our preparatory progress was not only seriously retarded (I having to spend eight months in New York city to counteract the influence, where six weeks only would have been required), but three years originally intended to be spent in exploring had to be reduced to one, and the number of Commissioners from five to two, thereby depriving Mr. Robert Douglass from going, an old friend and most excellent gentleman, whose life, as well as that of his father before him, had been spent in efforts, not only of self-elevation, but the elevation also of his people. Many years ago, the accomplished articles of "Robert Douglass, Jun," to the _United States Gazette_, and other public journals, forced those negro-hating periodicals to respect at least the writer, if not his race. Dr. Aray, also an excellent gentleman who had given up business to join the party, was doomed to disappointment. And of Mr. Jas. W. Purnell--who met me in New York two weeks after my arrival, and through the whole eight months of adversity and doubtful progress, stood by me, performing the duty of Secretary, writing in every direction, copying, and from dictation for hours at a time--I cannot say too much. For a young gentleman inexperienced in such matters, he has no superior; and for integrity, true heartedness, and trustworthiness, in my estimation, he has few if any rivals. To his great and good uncle, under whom he was brought up, much of his character is to be credited.

As an expression of the feelings of the most intelligent emigrationists with whom I corresponded generally in America, I give below two extracts from letters of Professor Freeman. The Professor is now as he then was, the Principal of Avery College.

ALLEGHANY CITY, April 14, 1858

MY DEAR FRIEND--Your letter of condolence was duly received, for
which we tender you our warmest thanks.

I have read Bowen's work, and shall to-day purchase Livingstone's.
I am more and more convinced that Africa is the country to which
all colored men who wish to attain the full stature of manhood, and
bring up their children to be men and not creeping things, should
turn their steps; and I feel more and more every day, that I made a
great mistake in not going there, when I was untrammelled by family
ties, and had the opportunity.

Respectfully yours,
M. H. Freeman

Again the Professor says:

I see that Emigration has broken out in the East, and that ---- can
notice one now without scoffing at, which he could not in 1854.
Well, people can grow wondrously wise in four years. But it will
take several more _Olympiads_ to bring the leaders among us up to
the old Cleveland Platform of 1854.

All the fault of that movement was this, that it was at least one
generation ahead of the colored heads of our people. We may, if we
please, refuse to emigrate, and crouch like spaniels, to lick the
hand that beats us; but children's children at the farthest, will
have outgrown such pitiful meanness, and will dare to do all that
others have dared and done for the sake of freedom and
independence. Then all this cowardly cant about the unhealthy
climate, the voracious beasts, and venomous reptiles of Africa,
will be at a discount, instead of passing current as now for wisdom
and prudence.

Mr. Campbell, who finally agreed voluntarily to be one of the "Niger Valley Exploring Party," spent some time with us in New York and some time in Philadelphia, but finally, in consequence of the doubtful prospects of my success, left, it would seem, at the suggestion and with the advice and recommendation of parties in Philadelphia, disconnected with and unknown to me, from whom he received letters of introduction for England. In justice to myself and party as organized, as well as the great cause and people whom I represent, I here simply remark, that this was no arrangement of mine nor our party, as such at the time; and whatever of success the visit was attended with, and benefit thereby accrued mutually to us in Africa, I as frankly decline any authority in the matter and credit to myself, as I should had the result proved what it might have done otherwise. I am only willing to claim that which is legitimately mine, and be responsible for my own doings whether good or bad; but this act the integrity of the Party was forced to acknowledge, as the following circular published in England will show:

EXPEDITION TO AFRICA TO PROMOTE THE CULTIVATION OF COTTON AND OTHER
PRODUCTS OF SLAVE-LABOR BY EMIGRANTS FROM AMERICA

A party, consisting of Martin R. Delany, M.D., Robert Campbell, J.
W. Purnell, Robert Douglass, and Amos Aray, M.D., (the last two
subsequently omitted) has been commissioned by a Convention of
Colored Persons, held at Chatham, C.W., to proceed to Africa, and
select a location for the establishment of an Industrial Colony.

While such an enterprise is of importance in the Evangelization and
Civilization of Africa, and in affording an asylum in which the
oppressed descendants of that country may find the means of
developing their mental and moral faculties unimpeded by unjust
restrictions, it is regarded as of still greater importance in
facilitating the production of those staples, particularly Cotton,
which now are supplied to the world chiefly by Slave Labor. The
effect of this would be to lessen the profits of Slavery, to render
in time the slave a burden to his owner, and thus furnish an
irresistible motive to Emancipation. Africa possesses resources
which, properly developed, must doubtless render her eventually a
great, if not the greatest, producer of all the products of Slave
Labor. And how would all good men rejoice to see the blow which
shall effectually prostrate the giant Slavery, struck by the Black
Man's arm! It is necessary, however, that civilized influences be
diffused in her midst or, at least, that facilities for rendering
available her products, be supplied equal to the demand for them.

It is the purpose of the party to proceed to Lagos, thence through
Abbeokuta to Rabba, on the Niger, about 350 miles from the coast;
to study the Agricultural and Commercial facilities of the country,
and the disposition of the Natives towards strangers as settlers;
also to negotiate for the grant or purchase of land, and to
ascertain the conditions on which we might be protected in the
usages of civilized life.

These objects being accomplished, the party will return and report
the result of their labors, when a considerable number of
intelligent and enterprising persons from the United States and
Canada, many of them intimately acquainted with the production of
Cotton, and its preparation for market, will be prepared to
emigrate.

Towards defraying the expenses of this undertaking, £500 has been
subscribed in America. This amount has been expended in providing
for the families of two of the party in their absence; in paying
the passage of Martin R. Delany and J. W. Purnell to Africa, direct
from America, and providing them a few articles of outfit; in
defraying the current expenses of the party since the 1st December
ult., while engaged in soliciting subscriptions and otherwise
forwarding the objects of the Expedition; and in providing the
Subscriber with the means of coming hither.

It is desired to raise in this country, in time to enable the
Subscriber to depart for Africa in June by the steamer from
Liverpool, an additional sum of £250, with which to provide other
articles of outfit, and goods for trading with the natives for the
means of subsistence, as well as to provide for other necessary and
contingent expenses.

The Subscriber will take the liberty of calling upon you
personally, at an early day, to solicit your aid in this
enterprise.

MANCHESTER, May 13th, 1859 ROBERT CAMPBELL

Grant, for charity's sake, that it was done with the best of motives, it was flagrantly and fatally at variance with every principle of intelligent--to say nothing of enlightened--organizations among civilized men, and in perfect harmony with that mischievous interference by which the enemies of our race have ever sought to sow discord among us, to prove a natural contempt for the Negro and repugnance to his leadership, then taunt us with incapacity for self-government. These flambeaus and rockets directed with unerring precision, taking effect in the very centre of our magazine, did not cause, in those for whom it was intended, a falter nor a wince in their course, but steadily and determinedly they pressed their way to the completion of their object under prosecution. In this design the enemy was thwarted.

I drop every reflection and feeling of unpleasantness towards my young brother Campbell, who, being a West Indian, probably did not understand those _white Americans_, and formed his opinion of American _blacks_ and their capacity to "lead," from the estimate they set upon them. I owe it to posterity, the destiny of my race, the great adventure into which I am embarked and the position I sustain to it, to make this record with all Christian (or _African_, if you please) forgiveness, against this most glaring and determined act of theirs to blast the negro's prospects in this his first effort in the Christian Era, to work out his own moral and political salvation, by the regeneration of his Fatherland, through the medium of a self-projected scheme; and thereby take the credit to themselves. It was too great an undertaking for negroes to have the credit of, and therefore they _must_ go _under_ the auspices of some white American Christians. To be black, it would seem, was necessarily to be "ungodly"; and to be white was necessarily to be "godly," or Christian, in the estimation of some.

With a grateful heart, I here as freely record as an equal duty I owe to posterity, my unfeigned thanks to all those gentlemen who took an active part and in any way aided the mission on my behalf, either from the pulpit, by the contribution of books, stationery, charts, instruments, or otherwise, especially those who made each the _one hundred dollar contribution_, and the two in New York, through whose instrumentality and influence these were obtained. Those disinterested and voluntary acts of kindness I never shall forget whilst reason occupies her throne, and would here willingly record their names, had I their consent to do so.

I sailed from New York May 24th, in the fine _barque Mendi_--Captain M'Intyre--vessel and cargo owned by Johnson, Turpin and Dunbar, three enterprising colored gentlemen of Monrovia, Liberia, all formerly of New York, U.S. In the name of the General Board of Commissioners for the promotion of the political and other interest of the colored people of the United States and the Canadas, by self-exertion, I thank them.

I cannot close this section without expressing my obligations to Captain M'Intyre for his personal kindness to me; and also to his first officer, Captain Vernon Locke, (himself a ship-master, who took the position of first officer for the voyage, and who had been, for the last three or four years, collecting scientific information by astronomical, meteorological, and other observations, for Lieutenant Maury, Director of the Observatory at Washington, D.C., U.S.,) I am greatly indebted for many acts of kindness in facilitating my microscopic and other examinations and inquiries, during the voyage. Concerning the _nautilus and whale_, I learned more through this accomplished seaman than I had ever learned before. The first by examination of the mollusca, which were frequently caught by Captain L. for my accommodation--and of the latter, by oral information received from him (who had been a great whaler) on frequently observing those huge monsters during the voyage.[2]

FOOTNOTES:

[1] Mr. Shadd was elected Vice-President in the place of Mr. Bailey, who left the Province for New Caledonia.

[2] On the 16th day of June, lat. 35 deg. 35 min., long. 38 deg. 39 min., a very large school (the largest Captain Locke said that he had ever seen or read of), probably _five hundred_, of sperm whales made their appearance in the segment of a circle to windward and leeward of the vessel about noon, continuing in sight, blowing and spouting, filling the air with spray for a long time, to our amusement and delight. The captain said, though an old whaler, he had never known of sperm whales in that latitude before; and from the immense number, and as they were frequently seen as we approached Africa many times on different days afterwards, that he thought a new whaling point had been discovered. Other whales were also seen frequently in these latitudes--lazy, shy, "old bulls," which floated with their huge backs and part of their heads out of water, so as to expose their eyes, when they would suddenly disappear and as quickly appear again; but the great quantity of _squid spawn_, the peculiar _mollusca_ upon which the sperm whale feeds, made it ominous, according to the opinion of Captain Locke, that a great new sperm whale fishery had been discovered, the spawn being seen during several days' sail before and after observing the great school.

NOTE.--I should not close this part of my report without stating that, during the year 1858, Mr. Myers wrote to the Royal Geographical Society, London; Thomas Clegg, Esq., Manchester; Dr. Livingstone, and perhaps others, all over _my name_ as secretary and himself chairman. The letters referred to were written (without my knowledge) by a son of Mr. Myers; and I only mention the fact here because I am unwilling to claim the honor of the authorship of correspondence carried on through a lad of sixteen years of age.

IV

ARRIVAL AND RECEPTION IN LIBERIA

Arrival in Africa

Saturday, July 10th.--I landed on the beach at Grand Cape Mount, Robertsport, in company with Messrs. the Hon. John D. Johnson, Joseph Turpin, Dr. Dunbar, and Ellis A. Potter, amid the joyous acclamations of the numerous natives who stood along the beautiful shore, and a number of Liberians, among whom was Reverend Samuel Williams, who gave us a hearty reception. Here we passed through the town (over the side of the hill), returning to the vessel after night.

Monrovia

Monday, July 12th.--The roadstead of Monrovia was made about noon, when I, in company with B. E. Castendyk, Esq., a young German gentleman traveling for pleasure, took lodgings at Widow Moore's, the residence of Rev. John Seys, the United States consular agent, and commissioner for recaptured Africans.

On the day after my arrival, the following correspondence took place:

Residence of the United States Consular Agent Monrovia, Liberia,
July 12th, 1859

To His Excellency, the President of the Republic of Liberia:
SIR--By a Convention of Colored People of the United States and the
Canadas, Martin R. Delany, Robert Douglass, Robert Campbell, Amos
Aray, and James W. Purnell, were appointed as Commissioners under
the name of the 'Niger Valley Exploring Party,' to make an
Exploration through different parts of Africa.

I have arrived, Sir, near your Government, and expect soon to meet
other members of the party. Any aid, orally, documentary, or in the
person of an Official Commissioner, which you may please to give to
facilitate the mission in Liberia will be gratefully and highly
appreciated. I ask the favor of an interview with your Excellency,
either privately or in Cabinet Council, or with any other gentlemen
that the occasion may suggest, at such time as may be designated.

I am happy, Sir, of the opportunity of giving your Excellency
assurance of my most distinguished consideration.

M. R. DELANY

His Excellency, President Benson. Government House, Monrovia,
July 13, 1859

SIR--I have the honor to acknowledge the receipt of your note of
the 12th instant, conveying to me the information of your
appointment (in connection with colleagues expected soon to
arrive), by a Convention of the colored people of the United States
and the Canadas, 'Commissioners,' under the name of 'The Niger
Valley Exploring Party'; and of your arrival near this Government.
You have also been pleased to signify, that you will duly
appreciate any aid, oral, documentary or in the form of an official
Commissioner this Government may feel disposed to afford you, in
facilitation of the enterprise.

In reply, I have to express my deep regret, that the receipt of
your very interesting note is on the very eve of my leaving this
city on an official visit to the leeward counties, which will, for
the present, deprive me of the pleasure I had anticipated of an
interview with you on the very interesting and highly important
objects of your mission.

The Hon. John N. Lewis, Secretary of State, with whom I will
converse on the subject matter of your note before leaving, will be
pleased to grant you an audience; and will, with pleasure, meet
your wishes, so far as he can consistently.

Please be reassured of the deep interest I feel in your very
laudable enterprise; and that, if it were not for very important
despatches received last week from the county of Maryland, which
make it absolutely necessary that I should delay no time in
reaching there, I would defer my departure a couple of days for the
express purpose of consultation with you in person.

I have the honor to be most respectfully,
Your very obedient servant,

To M. R. Delany, Esq., &c. STEPHEN A. BENSON

* * * * *

Monrovia, July 13, 1859 Martin R. Delany, Esq.:

DEAR SIR--The undersigned, citizens of the city of Monrovia, having
long heard of you and your efforts in the United States to elevate
our down-trodden race, though those efforts were not infrequently
directed against Liberia, are glad to welcome you, in behalf of the
community to these shores; recognizing, as they do in you, an
ardent and devoted lover of the African race, and an industrious
agent in promoting their interests. And they take this opportunity
of expressing to you their most cordial sympathy with the
enterprise which has brought you to these shores, sincerely
praying that your endeavors may be crowned with complete success.

The undersigned, further, in the name and behalf of the members of
this community, respectfully request that you would favor the
citizens with a lecture to-morrow evening, or on any other evening
you may choose to appoint, at half-past seven o'clock, on any
subject you may be pleased to select.

On receiving your reply notices will be issued accordingly.

B. P. YATES H. W. DENNIS
D. B. WARNER URIAS A. MCGILL
SAML. F. MCGILL H. A. JOHNSON
B. V. R. JAMES EDW. W. BLYDEN
SAML. MATTHEWS

Residence of the United States Consular Agent, Monrovia, July
13th, 1859

GENTLEMEN--Your note of to-day has been received, for the honor of
which I thank you, and beg to say that numerous engagements prevent
me from complying with your request on to-morrow evening.

You are mistaken, gentlemen, in supposing that I have ever spoken
directly 'against Liberia,' as wherever I have been I have always
acknowledged a unity of interests in our race wherever located; and
any seeming opposition to Liberia could only be constructively
such, for which I am not responsible.

Should it be your pleasure, I will do myself the honor serving you
on Monday evening next, or any other evening during the week, by a
discourse on the 'Political Destiny of the African Race,' and
assure you of the pleasure with which I have the honor to be,

Your most obedient servant,
M. R. DELANY

Col. B. P. Yates; Hon. D. B. Warner; S. F. McGill, M.D.; Hon. B. V.
R. James; Rev. Saml. Matthews; Urias McGill, Esq.; Rev. Edw. W.
Blyden; H. W. Dennis, Esq.; H. A. Johnson, Esq., District Attorney.

* * * * *

M. R. Delany, Esq.: Monrovia, July 14, 1859

SIR--We have the honor to acknowledge your note of to-day in reply
to an invitation of yesterday from us requesting that you would
favor us, with many others, with an address on to-morrow evening,
or at any other time agreeable to yourself. Having signified to us
that next Monday evening you would be pleased to comply with the
request, we tender you our thanks and will be happy to listen to a
discourse on the 'Political destiny of the African Race.'

We have the honor to be, very respectfully, &c., yours,

B. V. R. JAMES
SAML. MATTHEWS
And others

Reception

On Monday evening, the 19th of July, having addressed a crowded audience in the Methodist Episcopal Church, Ex-Governor McGill in the chair, T. M. Chester, Esq., Secretary; Ex-President Roberts rose and in a short speech, in the name of the Liberians, welcomed me to Africa. By a vote of thanks and request to continue the discourse on a subsequent evening, this request was complied with on the following Tuesday evening.

Dr. M. R. Delany, Monrovia, July 28, 1859

DEAR SIR--The undersigned citizens of Monrovia having been much
edified by listening to two very interesting lectures delivered by
you in the Methodist church, avail themselves of this method to
express their appreciation of the same, and to respectfully request
that you will favor the community with a popular lecture on
'Physiology' on Friday evening, the 29th inst.

HENRY J. ROBERTS
SAML. F. MCGILL
B. P. YATES
HENRY W. DENNIS
EDWD. W. BLYDEN

Public Lecture

The reply to this polite invitation of Doctors Roberts and McGill, and others, having been mislaid, I simply remark here that the request was complied with on the evening of August 3d, in the Methodist Church, to a crowded house of the most intelligent citizens of Monrovia, of both sexes and all ages.

Departure from Monrovia. Coasting, Cape Palmas

On the evening of August 5th, I left Monrovia in the bark Mendi, stopping at Junk, Little Bassa, Grand Bassa mouth of St. John's River, Sinou, arriving at Cape Palmas Sabbath noon, August 20th.

Missionary Greeting

Half an hour after my arrival, I was called upon by the Rev. Mr. Hoffman, Principal of the Female Orphan Asylum, at the residence of John Marshall, Esq., whose hospitality I was then receiving, and in the name of the white Missionaries welcomed to that part of Liberia. Before Mr. Hoffman left I was honored by a visit also from Rev. Alexander Crummell, Principal of Mount Vaughan High School, where, after partaking of the hospitality of Mr. Marshall during that day and evening, I took up my residence during a month's stay in this part of Liberia.

Correspondence

Having taken the _acclimating fever_ on the 5th of the month, the day I left Monrovia, and besides regularly a dessert spoonful of a solution of the sulphate of _quinia_ three times a day, and the night of my arrival two eight grain doses of Dover's Powder, the reference to "the state of my health" in the following correspondence, will be understood:

To Dr. M. R. Delany:

DEAR SIR--We, the undersigned citizens of the county of Maryland,
Liberia, beg to tender you a heartfelt welcome to our neighborhood,
and to assure you of our warmest interest in the important mission
which has called you to the coast of Africa. Perhaps you will
consent, should your health permit, to favor us with a public
interview before you leave. We would be most happy to hear your
views concerning the interest of our race in general, and of your
mission in particular. Moreover, by so doing, you will afford us an
opportunity of paying you that respect which your reputation,
talents, and noble mission command, and which it is our sincere
desire to pay you.

If Thursday or Friday will suit your convenience it will be
agreeable to us; but we leave the character of the meeting to be
designated by yourself.

Aug. 23,1859
D. R. FLETCHER THOS. FULLER
B. J. DRAYTON RICHD. W. KNIGHT
J. T. GIBSON JOHN MARSHALL
C. H. HARMON GILES ELEM
S. B. D'LYON T. S. DENT
L. R. HAMILTON A. WOOD
BENJAMIN COOK J. W WILLIAMS
H. W. MOULTON WM. W. PEARCE
ANSBURN TUBMAN R. A. GRAY
JAMES M. MOULTON JAS. ADAMS
N. JACKSON, JUN. J. W. COOPER
JNO. E. MOULTON

* * * * *

Mount Vaughan, near Harper, Cape Palmas
August 27th, 1859

Gentlemen--Your note of the 23rd inst., requesting me, should my
health permit, to appear before the citizens of your county, is
before me, and for the sentiments therein expressed I thank you
most kindly.

As I have reason to believe that I am now convalescent from my
second attack of native fever, should my health continue to improve
I shall start on an exploration for the head of Kavalla river on
Monday next ensuing, to return on Friday evening.

Should it be your pleasure, gentlemen, and my health will permit, I
will meet you on Monday, the 5th of September, the place and hour
to be hereafter named according to circumstances.

I assure you of the pleasure, Gentlemen, with which I have the
honor to be,

Your most obedient servant,
M. R. DELANY

Gen. Wood; Judge Drayton; Rev. Alex. Crummell; John
Marshall, Esq.; Hon. J. T. Gibson; C. H. Harmon,
Esq.; J. W. Cooper, Esq.; Dr. Fletcher; Giles Elem,
Esq.; Jas. M. Moulton, Esq.; Benjamin Cook, Esq.; S.
B. D'Lyon, M.D., and others, Committee, &c., &c.

Reception Meeting at Palmas

On the evening of the 14th this request was complied with in the Methodist Church at Latrobe, an out-village of Harper, by addressing a crowded assemblage of both sexes and all ages of the most respectable people of the Cape, on the part of whom I was most cordially welcomed by Rev. Alexander Crummell.

V

LIBERIA--CLIMATE, SOIL, PRODUCTIONS, ETC.

Territory, Climate

Liberia extends from a point north of Grand Cape Mount, about 7 deg. 30 min. north lat., on sea shore, northeasterly to the western extremity of the most southern range of the Kong Mountains, lat. 4 deg. 30 min. The climate is generally salubrious, and quite moderate. But it is frequently somewhat oppressive, though mild and genial, and the high hills and mountain ranges sometimes enervating to strangers or foreigners from temperate climates, in consequence of the "air being freighted with _fragrance_" from the _flowers_ and _aroma_ of the exuberant, rich, rank growth of vegetable matter, as trees, shrubbery, and other herbage.

Temperature

The temperature is seldom or never great, the average being 85 deg. Fahr.[5] This, it will be perceived, is but 5 deg. above _summer_ temperature in the temperate _zone_ of America, according to Fahrenheit's scale.

Comparative Temperature Bees